terra do malte/land of malt

8/10/2019 Terra do Malte/Land of Malt

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terra do malte

{land of malt}

Paisagens inebriantes e destilarias centenrias fazem da regio de Speyside,nas Highlands escocesas, o bero do mais nobre dos whiskies: o single malt

Intoxicating landscapes and centennial distilleries make the Speyside region, inthe Scottish Highlands, the birth place of the noblest of whiskies: single malt

PorByNATASHA MADOVFotosPhotos EDUARDO MARTINO

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50SPEYSIDE, IN SCOTLAND, is a region filled

with golden barley fields, rivers with dark

fresh water, green hills with purplish callu-

nas and a sweet smell in the air. This smell

sometimes reminds you of bread, sometimes

of beer, but it doesnt take very long to identi-

fy it: its the smell of malted barley that,

together with yeast and the pure water from

the Highlands, provide the prime matter of

the pride of Speyside: the single malt whiskies.

Its said of Speyside that, if you throw a

rock in any direction, it will land on a distill-

ery. Well, thats right: Speyside concentrates

more than half of all whisky distilleries in

Scotland. The tradition started in the 19thcentury, when the British government taxed

so h eavily the malt and its sub produc ts that

distilling whisky became an illegal activity.

Speysides topography, with its hidden rivers

and little caves, was perfect to the smugglers

who produced and sold the liquor without

raising suspicion from the tax collectors.

When the law was relaxed in 1823, a good

part of the small distille rs esta blished their

SPEYSIDE, NA ESCCIA, uma regio de campos dourados de ce-vada, crregos de gua escura e fresca, montes verdes com toquesarroxeados das urzes e um cheiro adocicado no ar. Esse aroma s vezeslembra po, s vezes parece cerveja, mas no necessrio muitotempo para identific-lo: o cheiro da cevada maltada que, junto comlevedura e a gua pura das nascentes da Highlands, forma a matria-prima do orgulho de Speyside: seus whiskies single malt.

Diz-se de Speyside que, se voc jogar uma pedra em qualquerdireo, ela vai aterrissar numa destilaria. Tambm, pudera: ali se con-centra mais da metade de todas as destilarias de whisky da Esccia. A

tradio vem desde o sculo XIX, quando o governo britnico taxavato pesadamente o malte e seus subprodutos que destilar whisky setornou uma atividade ilegal. A topografia de Speyside, com suasnascentes escondidas e suas pequenas cavernas, era perfeita para os

contrabandistas produzirem a bebida e a venderem sem que oscobradores de impostos sequer desconfiassem. Quando a lei foiabrandada, em 1823, boa parte dos pequenos destiladores estabele-ceu seus negcios e assim nasciam as grandes destilarias que hojecompem o corao da Trilha do Malte.

AQUA VITAE ESCOCESAWhisky vem do galico uisge beatha, que se traduz como gua da

vida. Tudo comea com a cevada, que depois de colhida maltada.Maltar nada mais que colocar a cevada de molho, at que ela

esquerda, as diferentes fases da cevada e a turfa usada na maltagem; direita, tcnico verifica o wash antes de encaminh-lo para destilaoTo the left, the phases of barley and turf used in malting; to the right, a technician verifies the wash before sending it to distilling


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businesses and so were born the great distilleries that today are

the heart of the Malt Road.

SCOTTISH AQUA VITAE

The word Whisky comes f rom Gaelic uisge beatha, which trans-

lates as water of life. Everything starts with the barley, which is

malted after the crop. Malting is nothing more than putting barley

to rest in water until it starts to grow, so the starch in the seeds is

released. Before they grow fully, the process is disrupted by dr ying

the seeds with hot air. If you use tur f as fuel for the boilers that dry

the barley, the whisky gets a very characteristic flavor.

In this phase, the malt is broken and goes into large tanks to be

mixed a few times, with increasingly hotter water. Then the mixture

is constantly stirred. From there comes a sugary liquid, called wort.

The wort will then receive barley and will be left to ferment a fewdays, becoming a kind of primitive strong beer called wash, which

will be taken to the great cooper stills. Traditionally, malt whisky is

distilled twice (in some cases, three times). On the second distilling,

the first and the last fractions are discarded and go back to the still.

Only the second, called middle cut, is taken to the barrels. In this

phase, the recently born whisky has none of its golden color for

which it is know: its as clear as water.

The oak barrels where whisky will mature for years or deca-

des are a separated chapter. Without embarrassment, they are all

comece a germinar, para que o amido presentenas sementes seja liberado. Antes que elas ger-minem de vez, o processo interrompidosecando as sementes com ar quente. Se nesseprocesso for usada a turfa como combustveldas caldeiras que secam a cevada, isso d umsabor caracterstico ao whisky.

Nessa fase, o malte triturado e vai paragrandes tanques, para ser misturado algumasvezes com gua cada vez mais quente, e a mis-

tura mexida e remexida constantemente. Dalisai um lquido aucarado chamado wort. Owort receber levedura e ser deixado para fer-mentar por alguns dias, tornando-se uma esp-

cie de cerveja rudimentar e forte, chamadawash, que ser levada aos grandes alambiquesde cobre. Por tradio, o whisky de malte des-tilado duas vezes (em alguns casos, at trs).Na segunda destilao, a primeira e a ltimafraes so desprezadas e voltam ao alambique.Apenas a segunda, chamada de middle cut, ser

encaminhada aos barris. Nessa fase, o recm-nascido whisky no tem nada da cor douradapela qual conhecido: ele claro como gua.

esquerda, os grandes e bojudos alambiques de cobre; direita, o single malt jorra do barril onde ficou por dcadas para ser engarrafadoTo the left, the great bulging cooper stills; to the right, single malt gushes out of the barrel where it stayed for decades to be bottled


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Manuteno constante: tanoeiroconserta barril de carvalho

Constant maintenance:

the cooper fixes the oak barrel

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second hand: before receiving the single malts, the y host

liters of bourbon, sherry or Port wine. The broken in

wood makes the liquor acquire a softer color and flavor

during the maturing process than if the barrels were

made of virgin wood. When they get to Speyside, the

barrels have a lifetime of 60 years, which means they

can be used two or three times. Because of that, theres

a professional just to take care of the state the barrels

are in: the cooper. He is responsible for checking and

maintaining the oak barrels in perfect state, so the ma-

turing process of the liquor can be per fect. In Speyside,

its possible to see the cooper in action on Speyside

Cooperage, in Craigellachie.

How long will the whisky stay there? Legally, to be

called Scotch, a minimum of three years is required.

But rarely the single malt is removed from its barrel

before a decade has passed. In this period, it matures

but also looses volume and alcoholic content by evapo-

ration. This loss is known among distillers as Angels

share. Cele stial tributes aside, whisky only leaves its

barrel when its master blender decides that it is ready.

In the stills, its not hard to find barrels with dates f rom

five decades ago.

EXCLUSIVE PLEASURE

When its time to get out of the still and be released onto

the world, the single malt can have two destinations:

being a part of a blended scotch or be bottled. Most dis-

tilleries in Speyside provide their single malts to the

blends, which hold 90% of the scotch world market.

Blends are mixtures of non-malted grain whisky with single

malts, and are popular because of the flavor consistency,

Os barris de carvalho onde o whisky vai maturar por anos

ou dcadas so um captulo parte. Sem constrangimento,eles so de segunda mo: antes de receber os single malt, hos-pedaram litros de bourbon, xerez ou vinho do Porto. Amacia-da, a madeira faz com que a bebida fique mais suave de cor esabor, durante o processo de maturao, do que se fossem

usados barris de madeira virgem. Quando chegam a Speyside,esses barris tm uma vida til de 60 anos, o que significa quepodem ser usados duas ou trs vezes. Por causa disso, existeum profissional apenas para cuidar do estado dos barris: o ta-noeiro. Ele responsvel por checar e manter os barris de car-valho em perfeito estado, para que o processo de maturaoda bebida seja perfeito. Em Speyside, possvel assistir aos ta-noeiros em ao na Speyside Cooperage, em Craigellachie.

Quanto tempo o whisky vai ficar ali? Legalmente, paraser chamado de scotch, um mnimo de trs anos. Mas difi-cilmente um single malt retirado de seu barril antes deuma dcada. Neste perodo ele amadurece, mas tambm

perde volume e teor alcolico, por evaporao. Essa perda conhecida entre os destiladores como Angels share, apartilha do anjo. Tributos celestiais parte, o whisky s saide seu barril quando seu master blender decidir que ele est

pronto. No difcil achar, num armazm, barris datados demais de cinco dcadas atrs.

PRAZER EXCLUSIVOQuando for a hora de sair do armazm e ganhar o mundo,o single malt pode ter dois destinos: fazer parte de umblended scotch ou ser engarrafado. A maioria das destila -

rias de Speyside fornece seus single malt para os blends,que abocanham 90% do mercado de scotch do mundo.Blends so misturas de whisky de cereais no maltados

Para ser chamado de scotch, um whisky tem que ficar envelhecendo por pelo menos trsanos. Mas no raro ver num armazm barris datados de vrias dcadas atrs To be ascotch, whisky has to be stored for at least 3 years. Its not rare to see barrels from decades ago


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year after year. But, among whisky connoisseurs, single

malt is the king, with all its subtleties.

In the region, there are four single malt distilleries open

to the public. They are: Glenfiddich, The Balvenie, The

Glenlivet, and west to Speyside, Glenmorangie.

Glenfiddich (Gaelic for deer valley) is independent: the

distillery founded in 1887 by William Grant continues to be

controlled by his descendents until today. Glenfiddich, up until

the 60s, provided their single malt to blends, including the ones

from their own company. But they decided to invest in selling

their single malt in the United Kingdom and abroad. The

enterprise worked: today one of each five single malt bottles

sold around the world, is from Glenfiddich.

Almost inside Glefiddich is Balvenie. Its also owned

by the Grant family, was founded in 1892 and it stands

out because of their almost exclusive tour. The distill-

ery, installed in a 1724 mansion, only opens its doors

with previous reservation. Its worth it, though: it is the

only one in the region that still malts its own barley,

coming from a nearby farm. In all the rest of Speyside,

the process was already passed on to contractors.

In Glenlivet, the visitor lives single malt history. Its

founder, George Smith, was the first to get a license for

com single malt, e so populares por conta da consistncia

de seu sabor, ano aps ano. Mas, entre os apreciadores dewhisky, o single malt, com todas as suas sutilezas, rei.

Na regio, existem quatro destilarias de single maltabertas ao pblico. So elas: Glenfiddich, The Balvenie, TheGlenlivet e, a oeste de Speyside, Glenmorangie.

Glenfiddich (galico para vale do cervo) a indepen-

dente: a destilaria fundada em 1887 por William Grantcontinua controlada por seus descendentes at hoje. AGlenfiddich at os anos 60 fornecia seu single malt parablends, inclusive da prpria empresa. Mas resolveu investirna venda de seu single malt no Reino Unido e no exterior, e

a empreitada deu certo: hoje a cada cinco garrafas de singlemalt vendidas no mundo, uma um Glenfiddich.

Quase anexo Glenfiddich fica a Balvenie. Tambm pro-priedade da famlia Grant, a Balvenie foi fundada em 1892 e sedestaca por seu tour quase exclusivo; a destilaria, instaladanuma manso de 1724, s abre suas portas com agendamen-to prvio. Mas vale a pena: ela a nica da regio que aindamalta sua prpria cevada, vinda de uma fazenda vizinha. Emtodo o resto de Speyside, o processo foi terceirizado. J emGlenlivet, o visitante respira a prpria histria do single malt.Seu fundador, George Smith, foi o primeiro a conseguir uma

Paisagem de Speyside:modo de vida intimamenteligado ao whisky

Speyside landscape: way

of life connected to whisky


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licena para destilar whisky legalmente, em 1824. Conta-se

que, antes disso, o whisky ilegal de Smith era to popular quefoi servido ao rei George IV, numa visita a Edinburgo algunsanos antes. A legalidade teve um efeito colateral: Smithtornou-se impopular com seus colegas destiladores ilegais edurante um bom tempo foi obrigado a carregar por ondefosse (at para dormir) duas pistolas para se proteger. A des-

tilaria fica num terreno de 23.ooo hectares da Coroa britni-ca, uma das mais belas partes da regio de Speyside. Quemquiser um pouco de aventura pode percorrer uma das trilhashistricas do tempo dos destiladores ilegais.

Um pouco afastada de Speyside fica Glenmorangie o

vale da tranqilidade. Cervejaria convertida em destilariaem 1843, o sabor de seu single malt deriva de um erro deseus fundadores, os irmos John e William Matheson: emvez dos alambiques bojudos de cobre tpicos, os Mathesoncompraram alambiques de gim usados. Isso, junto com agua da nascente Tarlogie, rica em minerais, fez doGlenmorangie um dos single malt mais populares naEsccia. E, convenhamos, se existe algo que os escocesesentendem, de whisky.

A REPRTER E O FOTGRAFO VIAJARAM A CONVITE DO VISIT SCOTLAND

E DO VISITBRITAIN.

distilling whisky legally in 1824. Before that, the illegal

whisky made by Smith was so popular that it was served

to King George IV when he visited Edinburgh. Becoming

legal had a bad side: Smith became unpopular with his

illegal distilling colleagues and, for some time, was forced

to carry two pistols everywhere he went, for protection.

The distillery is in a 23 thousand hectare field owned by

the British Crown, in one of the most beautiful parts of

Speyside. If you want a little adventure, retrace one of

the historic paths from the time of illegal distilling.

A l ittle farther west from Speyside is Glenmorangie

the valley of tranquility. A brewery converted into

distillery in 1843, the flavor of Glenmorangie single

malt comes from an error of its founders, the brothers

John and Will iam Mathe son: instead of the bulging

cooper stills, the Mathesons, short on cash, bought used

gin stil ls, taller than normal stil ls. This, along with

Tarlogie fountain water, rich in minerals, made the

Glenmorangie one of the most popular single malts in

Scotland. And, if theres something the Scottish know

about, its whisky.

THE REPORTER AND THE PHOTOGRAPHER TRAVELLED BY INVITA-

TION OF VISITSCOTLAND AD VISITBRITAIN.


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Glenfiddich Rare Collection 64 anosGlenfiddich Rare Collection 64 yearsA ltima garrafa Glenfiddich Rare Collection, de 1937,est venda com exclusividade na loja duty freeDufry de embarque de Cumbica, em So Paulo.Desfrutar do mais antigo whisky do mundo temseu preo: US$ 18.300, ou US$ 1.220 a dose.The last bottle of Glenfiddich Rare Collection,

from 1937, is available exclusively at Cumbicas

departure Duty F ree store, in So Paulo,

for US $ 18,300 or US$ 1,220 each dose .

The Balvenie 10, 12, 15 e 21 anosThe Balvenie 10, 12, 15 and 21 years

Glenmorangie 10 e 18 anosGlenmorangie 10 and 18 years

100% escoceses 100% Scottish

Experimente os single malt de Speyside na Dufry

Experience the Speyside single malts at Dufry

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DIVULGAO

Glenfiddich 12, 15, 18 e 21 anosGlenfiddich 12, 15, 18 and 21 years

The Glenlivet 12, 15, 18 e 21 anosThe Glenlivet 12, 15, 18 and 21 years

Destilarias Distilleries

Dufftown, Banffshire

Tel.: 00 XX 44 1340 820 373www.glenfiddich.com

Dufftown, BanffshireTel.: 00 XX 44 1340 820 373www.thebalvenie.com

Ballindaloch, BanffshireTel.: 00 XX 44 1542 783 220www.theglenlivet.com

Tain, Ross-shireTel.: 00 XX 44 1862 892 477www.glenmorangie.com

Dufftown Road, Craigellachie, BanffshireTel.: 00 XX 44 1340 871 108www.speysidecooperage.co.uk

Restaurantes Restaurants

Balvenie St., Dufftown, BanffshireTel.: 00 XX 44 1340 820860

GlenlivetTel.: 00 XX 44 1807 590 378

Hotis Hotels

Craigellachie, SpeysideTel.: 00 XX 1340 881 204www.craigellachie.com

Grantown Road, Forres, MorayTel.: 00 XX 44 1309 673 146www.knockomie.co.uk

guia speyside {Speyside guide}

terra do malte/land of malt

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