National Institute of Fashion

For Federal Trade Fair "TEXTILLEGPROM"

Moscow, September 2011

The most of the fashion trend forecasting services make reports on global fashion trends, industry news and consumer insights, trade fairs, retail destinations, major runway shows. However most of them don’t have clear vision of national fashion features and cultural influences on trends and fashion. Meanwhile, this is the most important part today, when budgets are very tight in the fashion industry. This is the subject of interest of manufacturers oriented for domestic market in Russia. Therefore,

first we make our fashion trends forecasting directly for the Russian manufacturers with strong highlights. Our report is based on the scrupulous statistical data analysis of street fashions of major cities in Russia.

Secondly, we separately analyze all aspects of fashion design: silhouettes, shape of key items that influencing these silhouettes, color, print, texture of fabrics, and accessories.

Our research has been done with a consideration of the preference patterns of various ages and needs of consumers, which is so important in planning of an apparel collection.

Our studio consists of one of the best team of designers and trend analysts in Russia. That is why NIM has been invited to hold seminars at various trade shows and events and seasonally presented at “TEXTILLEGPROM” – the largest exhibition in Russia and the CIS countries for textile and light industry goods, functioning in B2B format and covering the entire spectrum of products and services of this economic sector:

http://www.textillegprom.ru/en/the_fair/news_releases/

http://www.textillegprom.ru/about_the_fair/business_program/kalagova.php

Content:

Runway trends influence the Russian market in F/W’ 2012-13

ImageSilhouetteKey itemsColorTexture, structure, and textile designAccessories

The different age groups of the customers have their own preferences, which is of importance in design of collection.

In this presentation we analyze:

AGE GROUPS

Youth group(age 20-35)

Middle age group(35-55)

Elderly age group(55 and upwards)

Image

Way of the Warriorassociated withZen philosophy

-Independent-Goal-oriented-Disciplined -Sophisticated

Debt to Nature

Max Mara

Anglo-Saxon or Scandinavian image

Collections were created for independent and strong woman as in previous seasons. However today her image comes closer to the Nature . Her look recalls Anglo-Sax and Scandinavian types. Her lifestyle and mentality are reminiscent of Northern epic heroes and Vikings, from whom comprehension of fatal magic female force has come to us.

Kenzo

Andrej Pejic

DELUXE CAVE Woman

Ralph Ruccci Chanel

Austerity and self-sufficiency in combination withbusiness style

It is image of a woman who’s overcome cataclysms of 2012. She combines wild cat plastic with terminator endurance.

SCANDINAVIAN IMAGES IN RUSSIAN INTERPRETATION

ENGLISHARISTOCRATISM

Elegance and bon tone are the majorqualities of the Lady

Moschino

Chanel Ralph Lauren

ENGLISH ARISTOCRATISM IN RUSSIAN INTERPRETATION

Silhouette

Silhouette

Youth group 57% 9% 16% 14% 4%

Middle age 53% 12% 14% 16% 5%

Elderly age 54% 13% 10% 23% -

Silhouettes usage statistical data over fall/winter 2011-12 season in Russia

RECTANGULAR SILHOUETTE«FROM BOYFRIEND SHOULDER»

- Volume enlargement of the silhouette

- Sloping shoulders accentuate silhouette bulkiness

- Whole silhouette is divided as 1 to 1 or 1 to 2

Jil Sander Celine

“from boyfriend shoulder” SILHOUETTE ON RUSSIAN STREETS

Classic rectangular silhouette

- The shape becomes more flexible due to the quality of fabrics

- The basic length is maxi or hardly bellow a knee line

- Silhouette becomes elongated and it‘s width slightly increases

Jean Paul Gaultier Diesel Black GoldCalvin Klein

RESTANGULAR SILHOUETTE ON RUSSIAN STREETS

- Waistline at its natural place

- Smooth and pure shapes

- Garments are noticeably narrowed downwards that underlined elegance of forms

Celine

SEMI-FITTED SILHOUETTE

Akris

OVAL SILHOUETTE

«ANGULAR OVALS» These oval silhouettes are drawn

towards a wide rectangular

«WIDE-OPENED OVALS»Large volumes are created by draperies and widened sleeves. Such silhouette accentuates an accruing tendency of oval silhouette usage a lot more.

ChanelAlexander Wang Burberry Prorsum

OVAL SILHOUETTE ON RUSSIAN STREETS

«Wide-open ovals» ON RUSSIAN STREETS

THE TRAPEZOID Influence of an oval silhouette has had an impact on the trapezoid silhouettes. The trapezoid has flowing and smoothed angles, therefore the whole image does not look so aggressively as it was some years ago.

Alexander Wang Michael Kors

X-SHAPED SILHOUETTE

- The sleeve head and the bottom of clothes are frequently rounded up

- The length of clothes is hardly above a knee or the middle of a calf line

- This silhouette is seen mostly in trench coats

Burberry Prorsum

X-SHAPED SILHOUETTE ON RUSSIAN STREETS

THE KEY ITEMS

Youth group :OUTERWEAR

Quilted jacket

Overcoat

Raincoat

Trench coat

Down-padded coat

Куртки

Пальто

Плащи

Пуховики

Youth group :SWEATERS & JACKETS

Jumper

Cardigan

Sweatshirt

Denim

Cloak

Suit jacket

Jacket

Waistcoat

Sweater

Youth group:TOPS

Top

Dress

Shirt

Blouse

T-shirt

Turtleneck sweater

Maxidress

Youth group:BOTTOMS

Skirts

Trousers

Breeches

Jeans

Shorts

Leggings

Sports trousers

Capri

Middle age group:OUTERWEAR

Quilted jacket

Overcoat

Raincoat

Trench coat

Down-padded coat

Middle age group:SWEATERS & JACKETS

Sweater

Cardigan

Suit jacket

Jacket

Jumper

Cloak

Dinim

Waistcoat

Sweatshirt

Poncho

Middle age group:TOPS

Top

Dress

Blouse

Shirt

Turtleneck

T-shirt

Middle age group:BOTTOMS

Skirt

Trousers

Jeans

Shorts

Capris

Leggings

Elderly age group:OUTERWEAR

Quilted jacket

Overcoat

Raincoat

Down-padded coat

Trench coat

Elderly age group:SWEATERS & JACKETS

Suit jacket

Poncho

Sweater

Cardigan

Jacket

Jumper

Cloak

Denim

Elderly age group:TOPS

Dress

Shirt

Top

Turtleneck

Elderly age group:BOTTOMS

Trousers

Skirt

Jeans

Breeches

Sports trousers

FABRIC DESIGN

REPTILE LEATHER

Currently, usage of computerized pattern of reptile skin fits perfectly into the leading fashion trend - which is an aspiration of an digital era person towards the wild nature

REPTILIE PATTERNS ON RUSSIAN STREETS

Natu

ral s

truct

ures

Natural structures fit effortlessly in a today's costume as an imitation of the cracked or relief surface with new textures. Sometimes it looks like surface with the emerged outgrowths.

PSYCHEDELIC ORNAMENT

Character of bright English prints is so much exaggerated by present designers that it has adopted psychedelic nature, in which challenging color kaleidoscope camouflages the person.

PSYCHEDELIC GRAPHIC ORNAMENT ON RUSSIAN STREETS

THE THICKENED MAT LEATHER

The leather became more thickened with mat tint. It resembles dense wool or a soft seal skin

LEATHERS ON RUSSIAN STREETS

CARELESS BULKY KNITTING

Effect of carelessness in a way of knitting also gives softness to the whole image

THE FUR RESEMBLING

A WIG

The long fur, which is creating an image of uncombed and ungroomed yeti, has found its level among vanguard models of designer’s collections.

THE FUR«YETI»

THE FUR REMINDING A CUDDLY TOY

Such multi-colored and differently-textured types of fur are often used in one model, that is why it looks shabbier and touching as a teddy bear.

The fur reminding forgotten good old Soviet toys evokes cozy memoirs

THE PATCHY FURPresence of negligence and lack of a luxury hint is a leading trend of furs range. This shabby and flocculent fur resembles the one, which our ancestors wore. This fur seems to belong to the person, who stood up into fights with the pack of wolves...

COLOURThe color scheme reflects the emotional part of a new female image and the

general atmosphere of collections.

Achromatic

Brights

Darks Pastels

Achromatic

Brights

Darks Pastels

Achromatic

Brights

Darks Pastels

Youth group (age 20-35)

Middle age group (35-55)

Elderly age group (55 and upwards)

THE BLACKS. In last fall-winter seasons black color has supplanted all spectrum of colors. Models on runway looked like the funeral procession striding from one collection to another. Last season black colors changed already a little and began to remind dark gray. In this season picturesque dark gray colors remind glitter and variety tints of natural black pearls

Chanel Black color on Russian streetsAlexander Wang

THE WHITES. The scheme of white colors has also changed. Now they are not snowy white, but warm tints of white. No wonder that PANTONE has given names to all of them: an ivory white, an oyster white, a porcelain white, an antique white etc. Both dark grey and dingy white silhouettes are often supplemented with unexpected accents of bright colors

Bensoni Akris The white color on Russian streets

Chado Ralf Rucci Chanel

THE B&W. The classic black and white color combination allows to reach laconism of an English image. Moreover, in this season contrasting trimmings of constructive lines and edges of details go down a treat giving additional graphicness and rigidity to a clear-cut silhouette of a business woman. This color combination looks more provocative than mix of charcoal-blacks and antique-whites. However, the color combination of dark grey with tints of dingy white or neutrals sound most sharply and exciting

The classic b&w on Russian streets

BRIGHTS. The saturated and compound contrast of related colors have appeared last spring. In fall-winter’12 season they completely fill in entire silhouette. Often they harmonize with achromatic colors. It gives them refinement and adds zest. These colors remind dramatic sounds “dièse and bémol”, which seem to be disappearing in a heavy fog. There are many models designed upon discreet achromatic scale where bright color supported by nothing else sounds unexpectedly sonorous.

Burberry Prorsum Alexander Wang Akris Chanel

Bright colors on Russian streets

NATURALS. This palette has became popular last season already. Tints of flesh and beige colors have priority in it. Through the usage of these colors designers transfer elegance and feminity of Scandinavian images which are far from being soft. This color scale looks especially magnetic in the suits with various light fur dressed on models with lightened fluttering long hair. Owing to tints of flesh color even heavy overcoats and jackets look fabulous

Diesel Black Gold Akris Burberry Prorsum Natural colours in the streets.

FOOTWEARACCESSORIES

FOOTWEAR

Ankle boots

- massive wedge heel- hefty heel- usage of print

Open-toe sandals combined with socks.Coarse knee-length socks and woolen socks evoke thoughts of traditional Scandinavian motives.

SHOES

Comfortable elegant shoes come back. It became fashionable to trim them with a practical tweed, which reminds of old good England.

BROGUES AND LOAFERS As a result of the currency of androgynous style one can discover more frequently the elements of man's clothes in a female image In fact, brogues became the hit of the season F/W’12

HANDBAGS

Rigid bag - a sac/briefcaseA sac/briefcase is the best variant for the business and self-sufficient girl. It can contain all necessary thing that

she needs during the day.

Soft and fluffy handbag

There is an aura of warmth and coziness about it.Natural fur of chinchillas and foxes is used for its manufacturing

Wattled bagsEthnic motives continue to win the market.Designers use different geographical zones for their inspiration and create collections which based on motives of national clothes of one or another country. - Monochrome scale with dominated classical colors - Reptile leather - Decorative components are brushes, fringes and wattled thongs.

ACCESSORIES

The cultural heritage of Scandinavian people has become a source of inspiration for the last winter collection. For the spring collection - the cultural heritage of Asia and Africa has served.

Long-forgotten ethnic motives is becoming stronger again.

Massiveness and laconism of decorations.

Dainty fancifully twirled patterns

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION971-70-30

FashionInstitute.ru

Dean of Fashion Design faculty: Inga KallagovaKALLAGOVA@HOTMAIL.COM

+7 (925) 044 71 54

Moscow, September’11.