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Page 1 of 12DP-00064 ©Copyright Meredith Corporation 2003
Tilt-Top Router TableAn open-and-close shop tool designed for convenience
Count the features of this fully loaded
router table, and you’ll quickly conclude
that you’ve got to have one. For starters,
the table flips up for easy changing of
bits and checking bit height. It’s topped
by an accurate, easy-to-build fence. A
sealed compartment underneath, fitted
with a vacuum port, takes care of
sawdust. Below that, you’ll find a slide-
out shelf for storing all kinds of bits and
accessories. Plus, we offer an optional
table design for use with an aftermarket
fence.
TM
Page 2 of 12
First, build the cabinet1 Cut the cabinet sides (A) and
back (B) to sizes listed in the
Materials List from ‡" medium-
density fiberboard (MDF). As noted
on the Cutting Diagram on Page11, MDF measures 1" wider and
longer than regular 4×8' sheet
goods.
2 Using Drawings 1 and 1a for
reference, mark the centerpoint,
and cut the vacuum hose hole in
the left-hand side panel (A) to fit
your vacuum hose. (We drilled a
blade start hole, and cut the hole
to shape with a jigsaw.) To
prevent chipping, rout a ¤"
chamfer along the inside and
outside edges of the hose hole.
3 Mark and cut a notch in the
right-hand side panel for the cord
from the router to exit the cabinet.
4 From ‡" solid stock (we
recommend maple or birch), cut
the ‡×‡" cleats (C–J) to the
lengths listed in the Materials List.
5 Next, mark the locations of the
cleats on the inside face of each
side panel (A), as shown in
Drawings 1 and 1a. Then, drill
countersunk mounting holes in
the cleats, and screw them in
place, as shown in Photo A.
6 Cut the bottom (K), dust-chute
pieces (L, M, N), and support (O)
to size from MDF. For a tight fit,
miter-cut one edge of part L and
one end of each D.
7 Glue and clamp the basic
cabinet assembly (A, B, K, O)
together in the configuration
shown on Drawing 2 on the
following page. Check for square.
Then, drill the countersunk holes,
and screw the dust-chute pieces (L,
M, N) in place.
8 Working on the outside of the
cabinet, sand the joints between
the two side panels (A) and back
panel (B) smooth. Then, rout a fi"
round-over along the back corners
of the cabinet, starting 4¤" from
the bottom ends, Page 3.
20fi"
35"
All cleats mountedwith #8 x 1‹" F.H.
wood screws
¸" shank hole,countersunk
¤" chamfer alonginside and outsideedges of hole
#8 x 1‹" F.H.wood screw
Hole to fit yourvacuum hose
19"
35"
Router-cordaccess notch
Location of
A
R
A
B
D
F
E
G
J
I
J
H
fi" round-over along backcorners of the cabinet,starting 4¤" frombottom end
C
Location of
A
Location of O
K
3"
› x ›" notch
7"
15fi"
7Á"
1fi"
5Œ"
13Å"
18‹"
*‡"
12fi"
35"
17fi"
19"‡" ‡"
26"
45°
17‡"
7Í"
Å"
A
CD
H
L
F
E
I
*Note: If your materialfor part is a full ‡",allow more than shownfor clearance.
P
Vacuumhose hole
Mitered end
M
N
G
K
O
AA
1 CABINET1a SIDE PANEL(Left-hand panel shown)
Mark the cleat locations, drill themounting holes, and screw thecleats in place on the cabinet sides.
TM
FILENAME Tilt T 2
#8 x 1‹" F.H. wood screws
4"
35"
18Œ"
30Œ"
20fi"
Plate formagneticcatch
Magnetic catch
1fi" continuous hinge19" long
ˇ" and ¨" holes‡" deep forrouter bits
Magnetic catch
To router
Power switch
Cabinet hinge(4" from top andbottom edges)
3fi" wire pull2" from sideedge of door
fi" round-overs
3fi"
fi"round-over
ˇ" and¨" holes forrouter bits
22"#8 x 1‹" F.H.wood screw fi" round-over
18¤"
3fi" wire pull fi" fromfront edge, centered
› x ›" notch forrouter cord 3" fromfront edge
‹" hole fi" deep
‹-20 x 1fi" bolt cut to 1¤" long(Stops with table in full upright position.)
fi" rabbet ›" deep
Plastic laminate on topand bottom surfaces
„" chamfers
Dado to fitmiter gauge‹-20 threaded insert
Use ‹" T-nut on bottomside, epoxy in place.
Router
› x 11‡ x 11‡" phenolic router plate
‹-20 x 1fi" F.H. machine screw
ˇ" hole, countersunk
1fi"-diam. hole, centered
Miteredcorner
¸" hole,countersunk
T
K
T
N
L
B
M
A
A
O
R
T
S
VU
W
Q
P
1¤" glideinto edgeof A
fi" round-over
Note: MDF is dense and requires 7⁄64" pilot holes for #8 x 1‹" F.H. wood screws.
Router wrench
R=1"
T
W
Y
‹-20 x 1fi" F.H. machine screw
Four-arm knobwith ‹" insert
‹" flat washer
fi" round-over
‡"
fi" hole „" deep with a›" hole 1‹" deep centered inside
¸" hole,countersunk
#8 x 1fi" F.H.wood screw
R=1fi"
‡ x 3 x 27‡"
X
Z
Z
2 EXPLODED VIEW
PPage 3 of 12
TM
Page 4 of 12
Add the shelf, door,and base trim1 Cut the router-bit shelf (P) and
small-bit holder (Q) to size.
Locating the holes to properly
space your particular bits, mark
the centerpoints, and then drill
holes in the shelf for your large-
diameter bits. Now drill holes in
the bit holder (Q) for your small
bits. The small-bit holder works
great for straight bits, which
would fall through the holes in
the shelf (P). Next, glue and
clamp the bit holder to the shelf.
2 Cut the base-trim support
piece (R) to the size listed, and
screw it to the front of the
cabinet.
3 Cut the door (S) to the size
shown in Drawing 2. Rout a fi"
round-over along the sides (not
the top and bottom) of the door.
4 Drill holes in the door for
attaching the wire pull later.
5 Attach the hinges where
dimensioned, and mount the door
to the cabinet. Add the magnetic
catches and strike plates to the
door and cabinet.
6 Cut the base-trim pieces (T) to
size plus 1" in length from solid
stock. Rout a fi" round-over along
the top outside edge of each trim
piece. Miter-cut the trim pieces to
length. Working from the inside
of the cabinet, drill countersunk
mounting holes, and then glue
and screw the trim pieces to the
bottom outside of the cabinet.
7 Turn the cabinet upside down,
and nail four glides in place.
Here’s how to addthe tilting topNote: On this project, we give youthe option of two different tabletops.The instructions below detailbuilding the 28" square standardtop. You’ll also find dimensions forthe larger 28×36" table, shown inPhoto C on Page 11, that’sdesigned to work with an Incra JigUltra.
1 Cut two pieces of ‡" MDF to
29" square for the tabletop (U),
shown in Drawing 3, and detailed
in Drawings 6 and 7.
2 Glue and clamp the two pieces
together face-to-face. To achieve
uniform clamping pressure in the
center of the lamination, drill
several pilot holes from what will
become the underside of the
tabletop, and then drive several
#8×1‹" screws into the upper
lamination. Next, using clamps
along the edges, secure the two
pieces tightly together until the
glue dries. Now remove all the
screws so you won’t hit them in
the following steps.
3 A Cut the laminated router top
(U) to finished size (28" square),
radiusing the corners at 1".
4 Cut two pieces of plastic
laminate to 30" square. Apply
contact cement to all mating
surfaces, and adhere the laminate
to both surfaces of the tabletop
(U). Use a rubber roller to ensure
a good bond between the
laminate and MDF.
5 Using a trimming bit, rout the
edges of the laminate flush with the
edges of the tabletop as shown in
Photo B.
6 Cut or rout a dado in the top
(U), where dimensioned, to form
a slot that fits your miter-gauge
guide bar.
Using contact cement, adhere the two oversized pieces of plastic laminate tothe laminated top. Then, rout the edges of the laminate flush.
BB
TM
Page 5 of 12
7¤" Hinge
9"
3‡"
‹" prongless T-nut
LW
O
S
1fi"
‹-20 x 1fi" F.H. machine screw
VU
‹-20 threaded insert
3 SIDE SECTION VIEW
TM
Page 6 of 12
4 FORM THE ROUTER-PLATE RECESS
Centeredside-to-side
11‡ x 11‡"router plate
5"
FR
ON
T E
DG
E
U
Step 1 Position the plate 5" fromthe front edge on top of andcentered side-to-side.
U
Step 2 Trace outline of theplate onto the top of .U
U
2"
2"
10‡"
fi"
fi"
Step 3 Lay out and mark the openingcutlines inside the traced outline.
5"
Step 4 Drill a blade starthole, and cut the opening.
Cutlines
10‡"
Traced outline
FR
ON
T E
DG
E
Guide
board 2
Guide board 1
Guide board 3
Guide board 4
Step 5 Secure router plateinside traced outline withdouble-faced tape.
FR
ON
T E
DG
E
U
Step 6 Clamp the guide boards around the plate,spacing each board away from the plate Î" withbusiness-card shims.
Router plate
Spacers
Step 7 Remove the router plate and shims. Use a portable router and straight bit witha top-mounted pilot bearing. With the router base resting on the surfaces of the guide boards,adjust the cutting depth to rout ¤" deep into the tabletop. Then, guiding the bit’s pilot bearingalong the inside edges of the guide boards, rout the recess. Make additional passes, loweringthe bit each time until you reach a depth equal to the thickness of the router plate.
TM
Page 7 of 12
Cut the table insert into the topNote: We secured the router plate to the tabletop withscrews and T-nuts so that the plate (with the routerattached) can’t fall out when tipping the tabletop back.See the Buying Guide for our source for the router plateand hardware.1 The router plate we used (see the Buying Guide)
is listed as a 12"-square plate, but actually measured a
bit less. Using a tablesaw, cut adjoining edges to
square up the plate, then trim it to 11‡" square.
2 Follow the seven-steps, described in Drawing 4, to
form the router-plate recess in the top (U).
3 Mark the centerpoints, and then drill ˇ" holes in
the corners of the router plate, where dimensioned in
Drawing 7. Fit the router plate in the recess, and use
the holes as guides to drill through the corners of the
recess in the top (U).
4 Using epoxy, adhere a ‹" prongless T-nut into
each ˇ" hole on the underside side of the router
tabletop.
5 Carefully mark the centerpoint on the router
plate. Now, bore a 1fi" hole (or one slightly larger
than the diameter of your largest-diameter router bit)
through the center of the router plate.
6 Countersink the ˇ" holes in the router plate for
the ‹-20×1fi" flathead machine screws.
7 Remove the baseplate from your router. Using the
holes in your baseplate as guides, mark and drill
corresponding holes in the router plate.
Countersink or counterbore the holes, as required
for your router, and then mount your router to the
router plate. Place the router and router plate into
the tabletop recess, and secure the plate with
machine screws.
Location of part
U
R
B
28"
3‡"
fi" rabbet›" deepon top side
28"
19"
3‡"
Hingelocation
3‡"
Location of part
4‡"
15‹"
ˇ" hole
FRONT OF TABLE
V
‹" lock nut
V
W
‹" flat washer
‹-20 x 1fi" F.H.machine screw
‹" hole,countersunk
ALocations of parts
5 ROUTER TABLETOP
5a SUPPORT BLOCK DETAIL
(Bottom view)
TM
31/4"
3/4"
Dado to fitmiter gauge.
28"
28"
5"
R=1"
FRONT OF TABLE
Fence
X
1/4-20 threaded inserts21/2"
Centerline
23/4"
3/8" holes 51/8"
21/2"5"
U
Y
U
B
V
A
S
6a THREADED INSERT LOCATION DETAIL(Top view)
6 ROUTER TOP
‡"
‡"
Radius cornersto matchrabbeted recess.
ˇ" hole,countersunk for a‹-20 x 1fi" F.H.machine screw
1fi" hole,centered
7 ROUTER PLATE
Page 8 of 12
TM
Page 9 of 12
10"2fi" 5" 2fi"
ˇ" slots 2ˇ" long
2"10fi"
2"
24"
12"R=1"
27‡"
2fi"
1‡"
3"
Top view
Front view
R=1"
13Œ"
X
Y
3"
Z Z
8 FENCE
Centerline
1"
6"
15‡"
8"
7‹"
1›"
3"
›" holes, countersunk
7‹"
3‹" 3‹"
‡" stock
3"
INCRA JIG ULTRAMOUNTING PLATE
¸" shank holes,countersunk onbottom edge
Top view
1"
fl"
1‹"
V
V
Side view
PIVOT BLOCKFULL-SIZE PATTERN
‹" hole
9 PIVOT BLOCK FULL-SIZE PATTERN10
Z2‹"
2‹"
‡"
‡"
TM
Page 10 of 12
Dado to fitmiter gauge.
FRONT OF TABLE
3‹" 5"
36"
28"R=1"
V
1‹"-diam.plastic knob
Mounting plateIncra Jig Ultra
‡"
3‡"
ALocations of partsLocation of part
BLocationof part
3‡"
28"
19"
3‡"
4‡"
15‹"
ˇ" hole
FRONT OF TABLE
10‡"
7‹" 7‹"
›" holes, countersunk
‹-20 threadedinserts
Hingelocation
V
Location ofmounting plate
3"
1›"
S
(Bottom view)
‹ x 1 x 12" aluminum
fi"
‹" hole,countersunkthis side
R=fi"
W
SUPPORTBAR
FULL-SIZEHALF
PATTERN
Join pattern here.
1"
5"
1"
fi"
W
SUPPORTBAR
FULL-SIZEHALF
PATTERN
Join pattern here.
11 OPTIONAL LARGE ROUTER TABLETOP
13 SUPPORT BARFULL-SIZE PATTERN
(Top view)12 OPTIONAL LARGE ROUTER TABLETOP
TM
Adding a fence systemNote: In addition to the accurate,easy-to-build fence shown, wedesigned this router tabletop to becompatible with a number of fencesystems, including the Incra JigUltra, below right. Before installinganother brand fence, check them a n u f a c t u r e r ’ s m o u n t i n grequirements. 1 Cut the fence (X), base (Y),
and braces (Z) to the sizes listed
in the Materials List and shown
in Drawing 8 on Page 9. Cut the
mounting slots in the base (Y),
where shown.
2 Lay out and cut the 1"-radius bit-
clearance openings in the fence
and base. Now glue and screw
these parts together, and add the
braces to form the completed
fence assembly.
3 Mark the centerpoints for the
threaded inserts on the router top
(U) where dimensioned in
Drawing 6a on Page 8.
4 Drill a fi" hole at each marked
centerpoint just through the
laminate („" deep). (We used a
Forstner bit to make this recess.)
Switch bits, and drill a ›" hole 1‹"
deep centered in each fi" hole. (If
you are using the Incra Jig, follow
the dimensions on Drawings 10, 11,and 12.)
5 Double-nut a bolt, and use it to
drive a threaded insert into each
hole.
Now attach the tabletopsupport1 From ‡" maple, drill the holes
and cut the pivot block (V) to
shape, as dimensioned in Drawing9 on Page 9.
2 Transfer the support bar (W)
pattern from Drawing 13 to ‹×1"
aluminum bar stock. Cut the piece
to shape, and drill a hole through
one end, where marked.
3 Drill pilot holes, and glue and
screw the pivot block (V) to the
bottom of the router top, where
shown on Drawing 5. Then, attach
the support bar to the pivot block.
Finishing and final assembly1 Remove the router plate and
router from the router tabletop.
Separate the top from the base
cabinet. Remove the hardware,
and sand the cabinet and tabletop
edges smooth. Fill any
imperfections and finish-sand.
2 Prime the base cabinet. (We did
this in several coats, using a
sanding block with 220-grit
sandpaper between coats to
smooth the primer.) Paint the base
cabinet as desired. Apply a clear
finish to edges of the router
tabletop.
3 Hinge the router top and door
to the cabinet. Reattach the
magnetic catches and pulls. Then,
reattach the router with attached
plate to the router tabletop.
4 Attach the fence system of your
choice. Attach a power switch to
the cabinet, and plug the router
cord into the switch. Fit your
vacuum hose into the opening, and
you’re ready for business. ¿
Written by Marlen KemmetProject design: Jim DowningIllustrations: Roxanne LeMoine; LornaJohnsonPhotographs: HetheringtonPhotography
‡ x 49 x 97" Medium-density fiberboard
‡ x 49 x 97" Medium-density fiberboard
‡ x 7‹ x 96" Maple
Scrap to form guide boards
R
BL
A K
M
OP
A
N
U U
S
D E F G H I J
QT
C
TTTV
, , , , , , ,
(MDF measures 49 x 97")
Y
‡ x 3fi x 48" MapleX Z
Cutting Diagram
Page 11 of 12
CC
TM
Page 12 of 12
*Parts initially cut oversize. See the
instructions.
Materials key: MF–medium–density
fiberboard, M–maple or birch,
LMF–laminated medium-density
fiberboard, A–aluminum.
Supplies: ›×12×12" phenolic router
plate, #8×1‹" flathead wood screws, 1fi"
continuous hinge 19" long with mounting
screws, ‹-20×1fi" flathead machine
screws (6), ‹" flat washers (2), ‹"
prongless T-nuts (4), power switch, one
pair of cabinet hinges (we used Amerock
#BP-5988-M26), 1¤" glides (4), 3fi" wire
pulls (2), pair of magnetic catches and
strike plates, plastic laminate, contact
cement, ‹-20 threaded inserts (4), four-
arm knobs (2), ‹–20×1fi" bolt trimmed to
1¤" long, ‹×1" aluminum bar stock for
support bar (part W), primer, paint, and
clear finish.
Buying GuideTilt-top router-table kit. The kit
contains everything noted in the Supplies
listing above except the plastic laminate,
power switch, contact cement, primer,
paint, and finish. Kit no. TTRT, $54.95
ppd. Schlabaugh and Sons Woodworking,
720 14th St. Kalona, IA; 800/346-9663.
Incra Jig. Several models are
available. For more information, contact
Incra at 972/245-9975 or
www.incra.com.
CABINET
A side ‡" 19" 35" MF 2
B back ‡" 20fi" 35" MF 1
C* cleats ‡" ‡" 5Œ" M 2
D* cleats ‡" ‡" 4Œ" M 2
E* cleats ‡" ‡" 26" M 2
F* cleats ‡" ‡" 13Å" M 2
G* cleats ‡" ‡" 7Í" M 2
H* cleats ‡" ‡" 18‹" M 4
I* cleats ‡" ‡" 17fi" M 2
J* cleats ‡" ‡" 19" M 2
K bottom ‡" 19" 19" MF 1
L sloped dust panel ‡" 15Œ" 19" MF 1
M bottom dust panel ‡" 7‰" 19" MF 1
N dust bin front ‡" 3" 19" MF 1
O support ‡" 7¤" 19" MF 1
P shelf ‡" 18¤" 18Œ" MF 1
Q bit holder ‡" 1fi" 16‡" M 1
R support ‡" 4" 20fi" MF 1
S door ‡" 20fi" 30Œ" MF 1
T* base trim ‡" 4" 22" M 4
M mantel 1fi" 10Œ" * SS *
U* top ‡" 28" 28" LMF 1
V pilot block ‡" 1" 2‹" M 1
W support bar ‡" 1" 12" A 1
W mantel 1fi" 10Œ" * SS *
X base ‡" 10fi" 24" MF 1
Y fence ‡" 3" 27‡" M 1
Z braces ‡" 2‹" 2‹" M 2
CabinetBill of Materials
Matl. Qty*.T W L
FINISHED SIZE
Router Table
Fence
http://www.woodmall.com
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