the adventures of pen and jane i4: the red centre and working in broome
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Outback driving The Flinders Ranges, SA
January 2015
Our three weekroad trip from
Willalooka, SA to
Broome, WA.
Moving After a tearful farewell at the Johnson farm on the
1st July, we left Willalooka excited for our impending
adventure but lost and lonely at the same time. Its amazing
how fast you get used to being settled in one place and how
foreign it felt to be back on the road once again.
Under no time restrictions, we spent three weeks
thawing ourselves out by travelling north along the Stuart
Highway. After going up through the Red Centre as far as
Katherine in the Northern Territory, we headed west across
the Kimberley before arriving in Broome on the 21st July.
Although there was 5000km worth of driving involved, we
were kept entertained at numerous stop off points.
Issue Number: Four
BenCampbell
andJadeBaker-Edwards
WhiteFordFalconStationWagon
SomewhereinAustralia
TELEPHONE0401514832 328SKX
Ben on Granite Island, Victor Harbor
Palm Avenue in The Barossa ValleyCentral Market, Adelaide
Ben skated across the bridge to
Granite Island, Victor
Harbor where we spent about
an hour strolling around the tinylandmass. We didnt get to see
any whales, but we did have a
good time exploring the weird
shaped rocks dotted around.
W h i l s t w e w e r e i n
Adelaide, we explored the
centre of the small city, wandered
around Central market and
visited the Botanic Gardens.
The Barossa Valley is a
wine region in South Australiawhich is famous for its Shiraz.
Notable brands such as Jacobs
Creek and Penfolds are produced
here. The weather was rather
gloomy when we visited, but we
managed to do a scenic drive
which took us through the region
and most notably past Australias
oldest winery, Seppeltsfield where
the whole road was lined with
Palm Trees (which looked veryout of place in SAs climate).
On the Way
in SA
On Up
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Stokes Hill Lookout
The spaceship from Pitch Black" Ben underneath the Big Winch
Underground shop Piles of dirt from digging for Opals
Bunyeroo Rock Formation
Wilpena Pound
Exploring SAs largest mountain rangewas a great
way to get back into the swing of things. Located
about 150km out of our way, the National Parks
renowned beauty beckoned for us to take a trip
into the outback.
Once there, we walked to Wilpena
Pound, a natural 80km2amphitheatre with high
indigenous significance before going on
Bunyeroo Gorge Scenic Drive. On this
40km dirt road drive we went to beautiful
lookouts, drove amongst spectacular scenery
including through riverbeds and gorges and
visited the ruins of Aroona Hutwhich was built
in the 1920s. On the way back to civilisation we
stopped at Stokes Hill Lookout which had
incredible 360 views which unfortunately our
cameras could not do justice.
The 2834km Stuart Highway runs right through
the middle of Australia and was our ticket togetting to the sun, fast. Once you get onto Stuart
you are in outback country and there is nothing
notable left to see in SA, apart from the peculiar
Opal mining town of Coober Pedy. We
stopped off expecting a normal town but
witnessed shops built underground in dug-outs
(due to the blistering above-ground heat),
spaceships and other film props left over from the
filming of end-of-the-world epics such as Pitch
Black and we were lured into an Asian Mans
house/museum/opal mine/shop whilst we weretrying to find the Big Winch! What an eventful
couple of hours!
The Flinders Ranges
Coober Pedy
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Ben on his electric bicycle
Close to Alice Springs, the West MacDonnell Ranges boasts a
variety of gorges, waterholes and mountains which are ready
to discover. We spent a full day exploring them along a road
which stretches 160km due West of Alice Springs. Places we visited
included Ellery Creek Big Hole, Serpentine Gorge, The
Ochre Pits(colourful rock which the indigenous use to grind up into
paste for rock art and body decoration), and Ormiston Gorge.
West MacDonnell Ranges
The Ochre PitsThe steep walk back down from Serpentine Gorge lookout
View of the ranges from Serpentine Gorge lookout
Ormiston Gorge from up high and down low
East MacDonnell Ranges
Rock art of caterpillarEmily Gap
Ghost Gum TreeTrephina Gorge ridge walk Coroboree Rock
At the East MacDonnell Ranges we visitedEmily Gap
and Jessie Gap where we walked along the riverbed
amongst aboriginal rock art depicting dreaming
caterpillars. At Trephina Gorgewe went on a perilous
ridge walk where we may have become a bit lost and had
to find our way back to the trail by climbing down a small
cliff. Coroboree Rockis a strangely shaped outcrop of
dolomite rock which has high cultural significance to the
Aboriginal people of the region.
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Wycliffe Well servo
Happy alien selfie
The Outback
Ben in creepy hotel in the ghost town of Newcastle Waters
Bitter Springs Thermal Pool
Croc at LWI zoo
Even though we travelled between Alice Springs and
Darwin in August 2013, we managed to miss out on a fewweird and wonderful places to stop off at. From tiny
Wycliffe Well (the UFO capital of Aus), to the refreshing
Marataka and Bitter Springs Thermal Pools,
the Lonely Planet kept us entertained at well needed rest
stops along the 1180 km of previously covered land.
The weirdest stop was at the ghost town of
Newcastle Waters; a town made entirely from
corrugated iron buildings left over from the droving days of
the 1960s. Further up the road, the bright pink Larimah
Wayside Innhad a free zoo and aviary in their garden.
We just had to stop at
the quirky Daly Waters
Pub, where Annie Johnson
worked for a few weeks
when she arrived in Aus.
T h e n e a r b y d i s u s e d
Aerodrome (including plane
ruins) was also a good find.
Larimah Wayside Inn Pink Panther
Characteristically huge termite mound
Mataranka Thermal Pool
Beautiful sunset reflecting off of rock near Hawker, SA
The quirky beer garden of Daly Waters Pub
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We arrived in the Kimberley region
at its most accessible time of year.However, unfortunately for us,
because of the unadulterated
beauty of the area a lot of the
places are inaccessible for a 2WD.
In fact some of the areas are only
accessible by plane or boat with
tours that cost around $800 each!
We went everywhere we could
possibly get to in Sky, however we
are left with the feeling that we
have left the area incomplete. I
suppose we have to leave something
to come back to for a holiday!The first National Park we
visited was El Questro where we
were able to visit two waterfalls at
Amalia and Emma Gorges.
Both required long but entertaining
walks involving climbing up rocks,
hopping over riverbeds and skirting
past boulders with big drops on
either side.
T h e s m a l l t o w n s o f
Kununurra, Wyndham and
Derby provided us with some
good views along the way as well asa giant Boab tree that used to be
used as a prison!
Next on the agenda was
vi si ting th e famo us 875m in
diameter Wolfe CreekMeteorite
Crater. The place was so cool that
it even made the the 5 hour 150km
unsealed (dirt) road to get there
worth it!
The Kimberley
Hiding snake during gorge walk
Amalia Gorge
Inside the crater
Inside the waterfall at Emma Gorge
Wolfe Creek
Prison Boab Tree (used to lock up prisoners on the way to Derby)
Emma Gorge
View of Kununurra5 Rivers Lookout, Wyndham
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Extravagant pricing in remote areas is why it was so
important for us to start job hunting the day we arrived inBroome. During our first day, only three places accepted our
CVs; none of which sounded hopeful that there were
actually any jobs going. At the beginning of the second day
(just as we were gearing ourselves up for spending another
day of fruitlessly wandering around in the sun) we both
received phone calls about attending job interviews. By the
third day of being in Broome, we had both secured jobs in
the 5* restaurant Selene Brasserie in Pinctada Resort and
had found a nice share house to move into.
During our first three weeks in Broome, we started to
wonder if we had made the right choice to settle down here.
We were quite happy with the French couple and 42 year old
Aussie man that we were sharing the house with at the time.
However, our jobs were disappointing on many levels. Firstly,
we were not being given the hours that we were promised.
20-25 hours per week was essentially a waste of our time
considering that we like to work as much as possible whilst
we are stopped in one place. Secondly, whilst the staff there
were generally friendly, it was apparent that we were not
going to make the connections or have the social life that we
enjoyed in Palm Cove.
Ben and I inevitably started job hunting again which has
become one of the most important decisions of the trip. We
had heard through the grapevine that Matsos Broome
Brewery was looking for more staff, so we ventured inside with
our CVs in our hands and smiles on our faces. We had our trial on the busiest and insane day of the year for Matsos - The
Broome Cup (horse racing). Even though it was absolute madness, it wasnt actually stressful because there was a lot of staff
working and the service style was a lot more casual then we were used to.
Since that day, our time in Broome has been much more enjoyable. Matsos is a great place to work, with friendly and
hilarious people which make going to work something we look
forward to. I continued to work at Pinctada on Friday and
Saturday nights which ensured that I got decent hours every week.
Broome
Chinatown (town centre of Broome) as a storm is brewing
The famous Cable Beach
Monument for pearl diving heritageBBQ with a view at Sarah, Anna and Carlys houseBen and I are known as the royals- nothing to do with being English I am sure.Town Beach at low tide
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Matsos Broome Brewery is a somewhat iconic microbreweryspecialising in craft beer. Most famous for our alcoholic Ginger Beer
and Mango Beer, Matsos is well known throughout Western Australia,
with the brand gaining recognition in other states and territories as well.
In addition to brewing and selling the beers on tap, we sell take-away
bottled beer (which is actually brewed and bottled near Perth) as well as being a popular
restaurant and hang out spot in Broome with
gorgeous views overlooking Roebuck Bay.
Working at Matsos has been so much fun. The
brand itself is quirky, refined and well marketed; but
what I think makes the Matsos experience is the
character and passion of the staff. When we arrivedthere were 20 front of house staff which gave us a
lot of shift variation and knock-off drinks that
frequently turned into parties. As we've made the
transition to the wet season, we're now down to a
core group of 12. Whilst this makes work more
challenging during unexpected busy spurts, it has
also allowed us to make tight friendships with the
remainin staff; the reason we will be sad to leave.Christmas photo of the team for the paper
Thebrewingcycle
The1910Matso'sbuildin
gwhichhas
beenrelocatedtwice
Ben,JoshandSarahinthebar
MariekeandBenatSessionAlelaunch
GlenandCarlyatOktobe
rfest
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The Highs and Lows of Gantheaume Point
My favourite place in Broome by far is Gantheaume Point which
overlooks the Indian Ocean. In addition to the rugged beauty and
piercing colours which need no enhancement in photos, Gantheaume
has different things to offer at different times of the month (though
you dont want to go there when shes angry; the sea can get pretty
rough). Low tide reveals bonafide dinosaur footprints 130
million years old, whilst high tide provides borderline suicidal
adrenaline junkies the perfect place to cliff jump.
Us with a dinosaur footprint
Dino tootsie print
Rawwr
Gantheaume Point at Sunset
Gantheaume Point at low tide
Sarah, Ben, Rosie and Matty People waiting their turn to cliff jump
Lower cliff jumping spot Shogo and Ben after he cut himself on the rocks Cliff jumping spot
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Broome Life
Matsos Curry Hut and Courtyard
Matsoss beer taps
Sarah and I drinking tequila from coffee
jars because we are THAT cool.
My scooter (probably the cutest in the world)
My vegetable patchThe first house
A storm brewing
Zazu the cat
Christmas Champagne Breakfast
Us with housemates Dan and ShogoMy business card design
The pool at Lisas house
Bens scooterOur Oktoberfest costumes (mine homemade)
Our hammock at first house
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Once again it is time to move on from a place that
has become our home. We have had a great fivemonths in Broome and have been lucky to have a
lot of important things work themselves out
naturally and perfectly.
Firstly, getting jobs and a house was quick
and easy. We had a great four months living with
Dan and various other backpacker housemates
and to make things even better, when hours were a
bit short at work we were even able to work off the
rent by helping Dan in his home improvements
business. Some weeks he even ended up owing us
money!Secondly, the final month in Broome has
been spent in a gorgeous five bedroom property
which we are housesitting for a friend called Lisa
from Pinctada. In exchange for looking after the
house and Zazu the cat, we pay no rent or bills
and even have a private pool! This perfect situation fell into our laps
with all of the dates working perfectly. Lisa comes back on the 6th
January (rendering us homeless), which works out well because our old
housemate Shogo intends to leave Broome in the 7th to take three weeks
going down the west coast towards Perth. We will be travelling in convoy
with at least 6 other backpacker friends (which we are very excited
about as we are yet to do a road trip with other people).
Lastly Sarah (from Matsos) is flying home to Margaret River
(just south of Perth) at the end of January. This should coincide with us
arriving down there as Shogo needs to renew his passport by the end of
Jan.
Plans for what comes after that are vague. We are running out of
new ground to cover so it is likely that we will settle down somewhere
again soon. We have heard that Margaret River is beautiful (and we
have contacts for jobs) so perhaps well stay there.
What Next?
Glen and Brutus at Bard Creek
The Port
Glen and Matty camping at Bard Creek (4WD access only beach)
Staircase to the moon
The Japanese Cemetery
The sunsets of Cable Beach (unedited)
Thank you for reading!
All of my newsletters can now be found at:
TheAdventuresOfPenandJane.wordpress.com
Find my Youtube channel at:youtube.com/user/jadeworksout
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