the art of cleaning & surface preparation
TRANSCRIPT
The Art of Cleaning & Surface Preparation
Did you ever notice when you walk by an area and it just feels -- well, not dirty, but not clean
either? There may be a smudge on the glass partition, a very light coat of dust on a surface. It
may be nothing you can easily see, but you know something isn’t right. The cleaners did their
jobs last night, but….
In most cases, it’s not the cleaner’s fault. It’s the tools and chemicals they use. Their company
doesn’t understand the science of cleaning. At its core, the responsibility of janitorial services is
to remove unwanted matter and put it in its proper place. An effective cleaning company is one
that understands the science behind removing the unwanted matter. For the purposes of this
article, let’s refer to all types of ‘unwanted matter’ as ‘dirt.’
When dirt falls to the floor, shelf, or desktop, surface tension is created between the particle of
dirt and the surface. Surface tension is caused by the attraction of molecules to like molecules.
This is called cohesion. The molecules on the surface are not surrounded by like molecules on all
sides. They are more attracted to their neighboring dirt molecules. It is important to understand
that dirt is negatively charged or anionic.
Normally, a cleaning service will go through a building or facility, performing the ordinary
cleaning activities to remove the dirt. A common practice is to use surfactants (cleaning agents).
Surfactants are compounds that lower the surface tension between two liquids or between a
liquid and a solid. Soap is an example of a surfactant. Its foaming action gets under dirt and
helps carry the dirt away. Soap decreases surface tension because it separates the water
molecules. The soap molecules squeeze between the water molecules and keep them apart. The
forces of the surface tension then become smaller and therefore the dirt becomes easier to
remove.
Typical chemicals have a positive charge, which makes them ionic. So, as the cloth or mop
glides across the hard surface, the positively charged ionic chemical solution (surfactant)
attracts and removes the negatively charged anionic dirt. Because opposites attract, when a
positive charged cleaning agent is brought into contact with the negatively charged dirt, the
cleaning agent attracts the dirt (like a magnet) and holds on to it, helping in the removal
process.
But there is more to the story, because typical surfactants cause dirt to reappear faster than
necessary. How? When the positively charged ionic cleaning chemical solution is used, it
leaves a tiny film of the surfactant on the solid surface. Remember, this film is positively
charged because it is made of the ionic surfactant. As a result, the surface that was just cleaned
is now poised to attract the negatively charged anionic dirt – again. Throughout the day, week,
or weekend, more and more dirt accumulates because of this attraction. The cleaner returns and performs the same process, and the cycle repeats itself.
The way to counter this problem is to use cleaning solutions that have had the positive charge
removed during the manufacturing process. With no electric charge, these specialized cleaners
are now nonionic, neither ionic nor anionic. Even though this scientifically prepared cleaning
product has no positive charge so that no ionic film is left behind, dirt is removed through the
use of positively charged cleaning tools. Through the combination of nonionic cleaning agents
and positively charged cleaning tools, such as microfiber wipes and mops, the surfaces are
cleaned thoroughly and do not attract dirt unnecessarily. Therefore, through the science of
cleaning, all surfaces are cleaned and stay clean longer. The end result is a cleaner, healthier
building.
Surfactant: (pronounced Surf-Fact-Ent:
Surf as in Surf’s up baby! Fact as in “Just
the facts, Ma’am,” and Ent as in those
giant trees walking around in Lord of the
Rings)
It means “surface active agent” and is the
scientific word for soap at its most basic.
Surfactant = Soap
Surfactants change the surface tension of the
water. What this means is that water can
more easily penetrate the fibers which
loosens the dirt and then holds it in
suspension in the water. I’ll explain that in more detail below.
There’s a bunch of different types of surfactants, but we’ll
focus on two for now which are the most common when doing
laundry.
Surfactants are shaped like tadpoles. The head loves water,
and the tail not only hates water, but it’s attracted to dirt.
This is also called Hydrophilic (Greek word meaning
Water-Loving ) and Hydrophobic (Greek word meaning
runs away from water ).
Most types of soaps and detergents are
anionic surfactants which mean they
have a positive and negative charge on
either end of the molecule. The head is
negatively charged and the tail is positively
charged.
To understand charges a bit better, think
back to when you played with magnets as a
kid. One side of the magnet would attract
another magnet, and if you flipped one of
those magnets around they would repel each
other. That’s because one side of the magnet
has a positive charge and one has a
negative. Opposites attract.
http://www.howmagnetswork.com/
Back to the surfactant “tadpoles” – the
molecules will surround a dirt particle,
break it up, and force it away from the
fabric surface, holding it in suspension in the water until it’s rinsed away.
The reason why anionic soaps don’t work
well in hard water is because the minerals
(calcium and magnesium ions) in hard water
are positively charged, attracting the heads
of the surfactants. The hard water ions
deactivate the surfactant by binding to it
instead of the dirt. Each hard water mineral
molecule has 2 ions – so each hard water
molecule can take 2 soap molecules (which
have 1 ion). When the ions attract, the soap
becomes insoluble and can’t bind to the dirt.
This is why you may need up to four times
the recommended detergent in hard water.
This reaction also causes soap scum.
That’s why it is recommended that if you
have hard water, you use a softener – not
just for your laundry but also to help keep
buildup of soap scum from happening in
your machine and to clean out your pipes.
Otherwise the machine will break down
eventually and the area in your pipes for
water to run will get smaller and smaller.
Eco Nuts Soap Nuts and Soap Nuts Liquid is
a non-ionic surfactant. The difference is that
there’s still a tadpole with a head that loves
water and a tail that doesn’t, but there’s no
charge. This means it is not affected by hard
water ions. There are other factors in hard
water which make it harder for the nuts to
work in some (not all) cases and why we
recommend the liquid for hard water or a
water softener.
Surfactants work 3 ways:
From Scienceinthebox.com
Roll-Up mechanism
Picture a pincusion being surrounded on all
sides with tin pins. The tiny pins are the
surfactant and are essentially “rolling up” a
ball of dirt until it’s completely surrounded.
Emulsification
The surfactant breaks up oil particles so that
they are dispersed in the wash water and
can be rinsed away. Picture two salad
dressings – oil and water (not emulsified),
vs. vinaigrette (emulsified).
Solublization
The surfactant and the water causes the dirt
to dissolve into a liquid
The way the surfactant will work on the dirt
depends on not only the type of soil it is, but
the type of fabric.
Okay, the dirt is now off your clothes
swishing in the washing machine.
A great video to watch that demonstrates how surfactants work is this Candy Corn in
Space video. It shows some experiments
carried out by astronauts in zero gravity
with candy corn and water and they found
that they behaved similarly to how
surfactants behave in the presence of soil.
What keeps the dirt from winding up
elsewhere on your clothes?
Remember an Anionic surfactant has a
charge to it? Once the little tails are all
stuck to the dirt that leaves the heads poking
out which have a negative charge to them.
The fabric gains a negative charge in the
presence of the surfactants so both sides
repel each other.
This negative charge builds up on the
fabrics as they rub against each other and
continues in the dryer – which causes static
cling!
When your water is hard, this repulsion
doesn’t happen. Yet another reason to use a
water softener and why your clothes come
out dingy-looking.
With a non-ionic surfactant (like Eco Nuts)
it works in a similar way to keep dirt from
being re-deposited on fabric – the term in
chemistry called a steric hindrance . In
plain English it means that once the
surfactant molecules attach the dirt, the
particle is too big and bulky to cling to
anything because its size was increased by
too
Credits: Laundry Science 101: Surfactants
December 14th, 2011 12:18 AM
Is this ball gonna stick to anything? NOPE!
many things sticking out of it. The non-ionic
surfactants have a very long water-loving
head which sticks out and is attracted to the
water, not the fabric. This keeps the dirt
from combining with other dirt molecules or
going back to the fabric at all. Think of a
nubby ball – each little nub is a surfactant
tadpole head which wants to be next to
water, not fabric.
Remember the stick-um game? You toss a
ball and catch it in a Velcro mitt. Another
way to picture steric hindrance would be
if you tried to play stick-um with two
different balls – a tennis ball and a nubby
ball. The tennis ball sticks to the Velcro, but
the ball with nubbies won’t. The nubbies
aren’t a Velcro surface that the Velcro can
attach to like the tennis ball, so the nubby
ball will simply bounce off.
So then if the soap doesn’t stick once it
removed the dirt, what causes
residue/buildup?
Residue – not such a huge deal for most
people unless you cloth diaper or have skin
sensitivities, however for cloth diapering
and skin-sensitive folks, residue is a nightmare!
Residue/buildup is caused by the following
things – ingredients that are not soap in the
detergent (including optical brighteners and
stain guards or stain lifters), incomplete
rinsing caused by an overload of the
machine, misuse of liquid fabric softener (or
fabric softener in general – that includes
dryer sheets used after washing), powdered
detergent that did not dissolve properly, and
hard water.
To remove detergent residue, wash in the
hottest water setting recommended by the
clothing manufacturer.
Surfactants also create suds! Artificial
surfactants create more bubbles/suds! Suds
have nothing to do with cleaning power, and
are just a side effect of the soap in the water.
What makes a bubble? Read on!
Remember our tadpoles again and how
much the head loves water and the tail hates
it?
A cross section of a soap bubble from
Exploratorium.edu
When a surfactant molecule finds its way to the surface of the water the hydrophobic
tails poke out of the water because they are
trying to get away from it. Also keep in mind
from earlier that surfactants break the
surface tension of the water. This is because
the distance between water molecules
increases because the soap molecules are
forcing their way in between and the surface
tension can be bent/broken. In other words,
you agitate water a little bit introducing
some air and the surfactant molecules line
up trapping a thin layer of water molecules
in a soap sandwich. This is a bubble! The
soap film protects the water from
evaporating. As you can see, the bubbles
have everything to do with the presence of
soap but nothing to do with cleaning.
Different types of soap
molecules/surfactants create different sized
and colored bubbles.
Some surfactants are good at cleaning but
don’t make many bubbles (Like Eco Nuts
Soap Nuts and Liquid Detergent). Some
artificial surfactants are bad at cleaning but
make great bubbles. Some surfactants make
great bubbles and clean well (usually those
are more specialized for grease) some big
brand detergents and cleaners put those
artificial foaming surfactants in them just to
make bubbles so you think they’re cleaning
extra-hard. But now you know better! If you
talk to your local water treatment plant
they’ll tell you all about have they have to
add de-foaming agents to the water when
they treat it because there are so many
surfactants in our waste water (the majority
are the artificial foaming type that we don’t
need
Antislip Treatment
Antislip Solution is applied to the tiled surface the following chemical reaction occurs. The
surface of the tile is micro etched, which provides an anti slip, slip resistant effect to the surface
when wet. Quite simply put, we create a tread pattern within the surface. Once treated with
antislip, the surface has been altered permanently (depending on the integrity/quality of the tile)
to provide a slip-resistant finish that becomes part of the surface. With this treatment a slight
loss of glaze or colour may occur in some tiles – a sample treatment is always offered to gauge
this variation. We suggest you inspect the treated tile when wet and dry to ensure you are happy
with the finished product.
Sealing
After treating the tiles, we seal them with our Micro Inviso Shield, water & oil repelling,
microscopic, invisible shield. It is not a surface or barrier coating; rather it deeply penetrates
and chemically bonds with the substrate without altering its appearance and allows the substrate
to breathe. Surfaces are then up to 90% easier to maintain clean.
Micro Inviso Shield improves slip resistance as aquaplaning is minimised. Micro Inviso Shield
does not UV degrade and does not wear off in high traffic areas.
Micro Inviso Shield can be applied to masonry substrates such as sandstone, pavers, exposed
aggregate, brick, concrete and other natural stones to protect against water penetration,
staining, chewing gum adhesion, efflorescence, corrosion of steel reinforcement, spalling and
de-icing attack.
The surface treated will be warranted to remain slip-resistant when wet to meet AS/NZS
4586:2004 & Duty of Care Legislation, for a period of up to 5 years or the effective life of the
tile subject to the integrity of the tile and correct cleaning methods being followed. Antislip has
created a tread pattern in the top of the tile, as the tile wears down, so does the effect of Antislip.
CLEANING A TREATED SURFACE
It is important that a surface treated with Antislip is not allowed to become dirtier than normal
or contaminated with food, oils and fats as these will negate the system. Spills can be cleaned up
immediately as there is no need to fear water on an Antislip treated floor. To ensure long life of
the treatment, it is important that a non-residual cleaning product be utilised (we use and
recommend Power Kleen, Ubeaut or 3 in 1, UBC). A guide to cleaning and maintenance is
available on request.
Maintenance cleaning instructions for Antislip Treated Surfaces.
Now that your tiles/pavers/pebbles have been treated with Antislip Tile Treatment, and sealed with our M.I.S penetrating sealer, it is important that they are cleaned properly to maintain the
non slip effect that we have installed. Poor cleaning practices will negate the system by allowing
residues to fill up the microscopic pores that we have created in the surface of the tile.
General cleaning & oil/grease removal we recommend a pH neutral detergent or Tile &
Concrete Cleaner Concentrate.
MONTHLY MAJOR - DEGREASE
1. Used with warm water if available.
2. Power Kleen, (pool areas, bathrooms, Aquatic surrounds)
3. Ubeaut (All tiled surfaces)
4. Mix to desired affect with water & spread to surface
5. Apply solution with a soft broom and lightly scrub
6. Leave on for a few minutes and either rinse off with water or
7. Pick up solution with a Commercial Micro Fiber mop, wet dry vac
8. Clean water, change the water regularly so that the surface is left clean and free from
detergent and grime.
9. Rinse the Mop to dry often; do not leave the water to air dry.
DAILY CLEANING
1. Used with warm water if available.
2. Ubeaut (All tiled surfaces)
3. Mix to desired affect with water & spread to surface
4. Apply solution with a soft broom and lightly scrub
5. Leave on for a few minutes and either rinse off with water or
6. Pick up solution with a Commercial Micro Fiber mop, wet dry vac
7. Clean water, change the water regularly so that the surface is left clean and free from
detergent and grime.
8. Rinse the Mop to dry often; do not leave the water to air dry.
Caution: Power auto scrubbers or polishers may be used with SOFT brushes in the Lay Scrub
method, hard concrete brushes do not clean out microscopic pores and will hone away the
surface of the tile or stone. The area still requires rinsing if using these methods.
“Lay Scrub System” by feeding a PH balanced solution (preferably) with warm water, through
scrubber whilst brushes are turning until solution tank is empty, fill solution tank with fresh
clean water, add defoamer & re scrub floor whilst rinsing & vacuuming up waste.
Do Not Use; Highly alkaline cleaning agents, powdered or crème cleansers and disinfectants
other than (Quaternary Ammonia) these cleaning products are highly residual & if used must be
rinsed off thoroughly.
Common Cleaning Mistakes
Using the wrong cleaning products – too harsh a chemical or too abrasive a cleaner. Using too much product – dilute as per instructions, more is NOT better.
Applying too much water to the surface / flooding the area.
Not changing the water or cleaning solution often enough.
Not finishing with a rinse to remove any cleaner / chemical residue.
Leaving residual moisture on the floors – make sure to dry mop, wet vac or dry with an
old towel or rag so that there is no residual moisture left on the floors (especially in the
grout joints).
Enzymes
Many companies offer "environmentally friendly" enzyme solutions that break down the FOG
in grease traps and supposedly expel water with digested grease. While some of these enzyme
products may be useful for cleaning tile or floors, they are not proven grease removal
systems; they can contain questionable ingredients and are not recommended for use with
grease traps. Many of these enzymes do not 'eat' the FOG, but just temporarily separate the
grease from the water, which then flows into the wastewater system and attaches to pipes
downstream of the grease trap. In addition, many states and government bodies prohibit
enzyme use for cleaning grease traps. In general, it is better to clean the grease traps on a
regular basis.
Cyndan degrease & cleaning products are specifically formulated to address the following:
1. Whatever method is chosen, remember the three golden rules of cleaning:
Rule A: Try a small inconspicuous area first
Rule B: Rinse off well with clean water afterwards
Rule C: Avoid high concentration of cleaners for prolonged periods of time.
2. The sooner the cleaning is carried out, the easier the stain can be removed.
3. Protect the floor if decorating, construction or overhead work is taking place.
4. Locations which are permanently wet (e.g. swimming pools, showers etc.) may attract a
buildup of body fat, oils, soap residue, hard water deposits and in humid conditions organic
growth (algae). To remove this, a more acidic cleaning agent used regularly is preferable
because alkaline cleaners can react with body fats to make surfaces slippery.
5. Powder cleansers should not be used as undissolved particles may remain and develop a haze
distracting from the naturalness and beauty of the tiles.
6. Steel wool pads should not be used as they leave steel particles, which may later rust leaving
brown stains.
7. One source of problems with unglazed tiles is regular cleaning with alkaline detergent of
greater than pH 9 with high concentrate of sodium or potassium hydroxide. These should not be
used unless the residue can be neutralised and thoroughly rinsed away with clean water,
otherwise reaction can cause a glossy and potentially slippery surface.
8. The pH of the material is the measure of acidity or alkalinity. It is a logarithmic scale and pH 7
is the neutral point. Below pH 7, the material is progressively more acidic and above pH 7, more
alkaline (i.e. pH 8 is 10 x more alkaline that pH 7).
9. The regular use of detergents and other cleaning agents with are excessively acidic or alkaline
with excess sodium or potassium hydroxide can cause irreversible damage to the tile surface.
Acidity being less damaging that alkalinity. All products used must be recommended by the
chemical manufacturer.
10. Many degreasing agents which contain wax, sodium, silicate or other additives which leave a
sticky deposit on the floor and thus retain dirt on the surface must also be avoided. Like any
material tiles tend to become slippery when wet. We recommend that care be taken to keep the
surface dry.
12. Please always refer to the chemical manufacturer’s instructions when using any cleaning
agent.
13. Detergents build up with prolonged use and if not properly rinsed. This build up of detergents
will hold in dirt, make the tile look dirty and make it slippery.
Cleaning Facts:
1 Phosphoric acid cleaner
This is a phosphoric based acid cleaner containing detergent properties for the removal of excess
grouting and cement smears, usually used diluted with water in a ration of 1 part acid to 10 parts
water for final clean up of excess grout from tiles.
NOTE: Acid cleaner must be handled with care and protective clothing and goggles must be
worn. Read safety instructions before opening and applying.
2 Sodium bicarbonate
A 5-10% solution may be used to neutralise the acids used in grout removal. After reacting, the
materials should be washed off with copious amount of water.
3 Cleaning detergents
These vary dependent upon the application as follows:
3.1 Post phosphoric acid cleaner
To clean up after phosphoric acid, the most suitable is a neutral to slightly alkaline cleanser pH 7
to 9 designed to neutralise the phosphoric acid and maintain tiles in a clean condition.
3.2 Daily cleaning
For daily cleaning, a detergent with a pH in the range of 7-9 should be used.
3.3 Heavy cleaning
For heavy cleaning, an organic acid cleaner with a pH of 2, but no mineral acid content or an
alkaline cleaner with a pH of up to 11 may be used provided its sodium or potassium hydroxide
content is no more than 0.01% in the liquid used.
3.4 Heavy duty scrubbing
For heavy duty scrubbing of small areas higher alkaline cleaners up to pH 13.5 may be used
provided the sodium or potassium hydroxide content is less than 2% in the concentrate and is
diluted to at least 100:1 with water, but they should be removed from the surface with copious
quantities of water. They should not be used in a routine daily maintenance as residual cleaner
will attack the tile surface and cause the grout to blacken.
4 Water
Clean water is the big secret in cleaning; it should be used to flush all detergents and acids used
in cleaning.
4.1 Manual cleaning
Mop and bucket. Micro Fiber or natural bristle scrubber.
4.2 Mechanical cleaning
Large areas of plain or textured surface tiles are most readily cleaned with rotary cylindrical or
reversing mechanical scrubbing machines. The scrubbing machine speed ideally should be 150 to
250 rpm. Brushes used should be selected so that they effectively clean the tiles but does not
damage the tile surface in any way. Scrubbing machines should be provided with a suction drying
facility.
4.3 High velocity water jets
High velocity water jets are sometimes available for general use and/or for removal of stubborn
dirt. These will not damage the tiles, but may erode the grout in the joints if used regularly.
Check with the equipment manufacturer before using. If oil or grease is present, use the jet with
warm or hot water and with neutral detergent. Glazed tiles
When cleaning glazed tiles, a damp cloth is usually all it takes to bring back the gloss of the tiles.
A routine clean with window cleaner may remove moderate stains and a stronger solution in
necessary for heavily soiled surfaces. A milk solution of hot water and all purpose liquid cleaner
or soap less detergent is excellent for cleaning walls, floors and counter tops.
When cleaning it is important to remember:
Do not use powder based cleaners that may scratch the surface.
Do not use soap to clean as it leaves a film which can dull the gloss of glazed tiles and also
encourages the growth of bacteria and mould in damp areas.
All cleaning solution must the thoroughly removed for the tiles by rinsing with clean water.
To clean grouting, a plastic bristle brush is recommended. Steel wool pads should not be used as
they leave steel particles, which may later rust leaving brown stains.
Due to the constant use of shower areas, tiles surfaces need a different cleaning procedure to
remove the hard water deposits, soap scum and body oils that build up.
To avoid extra heavy cleaning, weekly cleaning is advised to maintain the level of hygiene and to
remove dirt before it builds up into hard deposits. Routine build up can be removed with most all
purpose cleaners while hard water deposits can be eliminated by a solution of white vinegar and
water. A plastic scouring pad is most useful for this kind of cleaning.
With the damp nature of shower recesses, bacteria and mould can develop where there is little
ventilation. This can be removed by spraying or wiping with chlorine bleach such as Cyndan
Bleach. This should be allowed to stand for 5 minutes and later rinsed with clear water. Caution
should be taken when using bleach and it should never be mixed with ammonia.
Maintenance of public areas
Small areas
Small public areas such a lobbies and corridors can be easily cleaned by a daily mopping with
warm water and all-purpose eco friendly UBEAUT cleaner.
Large areas
Large public areas such as shopping centers, malls and auditoriums may be cleaned with self
propelled scrubbing machines using detergents as follows:
1. For daily cleaning, Ubeaut with a pH in the range of 7-9 should be used.
2. For heavy cleaning, an organic acid cleaner with a pH about 2, but containing no mineral
acids, or an alkaline cleaner with a pH of up to 11 may be used provided its sodium or potassium
hydroxide content is less than 0.01% when diluted. Both should be diluted with water as
recommended by the chemical manufacturer. The cleaner should be liberally applied and quickly
removed from the floor by squeegee and suction as recommended by the chemical manufacturer.
3. For heavy duty scrubbing of small areas higher alkaline cleaners up to pH 13.5 may be used
provided the sodium or potassium hydroxide content is less than 2% in the concentrate and is
diluted to at least 100:1 with water, but they should be removed from the surface with copious
quantities of water. They should not be used in a routine daily maintenance as residual cleaner
will attack the tile surface and cause the grout to blacken.
Before using these products (1, 2 & 3) get professional written advice from the chemical
manufacturer as to the suitability, application and frequency of use of their product on fully
vitrified porcelain tiles.
Natural stone
Natural Stone Products should not be cleaned with acid or acid based industrial cleaners. It is
recommended that you seek professional written advice from the chemical manufacturer as to the
suitability, application and frequency of use of their product on Natural Stone.
It is recommended that Natural Stone products are sealed.
Polished tiles
When cleaning polished tiles it is recommended to sweep or vacuum the floor of all loose dirt,
sand and other foreign materials prior to cleaning.
Mop the floor with a mild cleaning solution and water, Use 50% less detergent concentrate than
one would use on an unpolished floor.
Use a damp mop with clean, clear water to clean off any cleaning solution, finally dry the floor
thoroughly with a soft cloth or buffing pad to increase the shine and prevent water spots.
Unpolished, matt and honed tiles
When cleaning unpolished, matt or honed tiles it is recommended to sweep or vacuum the floor of
all loose dirt, sand and other foreign materials prior to cleaning. If there are contaminants on the
surface of the tile that are difficult to remove, it is important to firstly identify the specific spill or
contaminant and different surface contaminants required different cleaning methods and
chemicals. However, the general recommendations are:
Saturate the floor with a mild cleaning solution and water, and allow it to stand for 5 – 10
minutes. Do not allow the cleaning solution to dry, add more water if necessary. It may be best to
complete small areas at a time.
Remove the dirty cleaning solution and rinse the surface with clean, clear water and buff with a
dry mop or towel.
For the contaminants that are difficult to remove, scrub the cleaning solution with a floor
machine equipped with a nylon pad or bristle brush. For residential applications and small areas
a hand brush or nylon pad can be used. Remove the dirty cleaning solution and rinse the surface
with clean, clear water.
Powder cleaners should not be used as undissolved particles might remain and develop a haze
distracting from the naturalness and beauty of unglazed or terracotta tiles.
Please consult your local representive for a tailored solution addressing your specific
requirements.