the bar book: elements of cocktail technique
TRANSCRIPT
Textandillustrationscopyright©2014byJeffreyMorgenthaler.Photographscopyright©2014byAlannaHale.
Allrightsreserved.Nopartofthisbookmaybereproducedinanyformwithoutwrittenpermissionfromthepublisher.
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ISBN978-1-4521-1384-5(hc)
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ThisbookisdedicatedtothecountlessmenandwomenallovertheworldwhosebarsIhavesatatovertheyears,askingquestions,borrowingideas,andstealingrecipes.Itisyourcombinedknowledgethatfillsthesepages,anditisyouwhocontinuallyinspiremetoworkharder,learnmore,andsharewiththerestoftheworldsothatwecancontinuetokeepgrowingthisthingtogether.
CONTENTSWHYIMAKECOCKTAILS,ANDWHYIWROTETHISBOOK8
ANYGOODCOCKTAILNEEDSTHESETHREEELEMENTS10
I’VEORGANIZEDTHEBOOKTHEWAYIBUILDMYCOCKTAILS11
CHAPTERNO1
CITRUSJUICE13
CHOOSINGYOURFRUIT16BUYINGINBULK16HOWMUCHJUICECANYOUEXPECT?17
CHOOSINGTHERIGHTJUICER19HANDPRESSES19MECHANICALPRESSES20ELECTRICPRESSES20
BARTENDER’SCHOICE:ELECTRICJUICER20
JUICINGTECHNIQUE22CUTTINGYOURFRUITFORJUICING22HOWTOJUICECITRUSFRUITWITHAHANDPRESS22HOWTOJUICEINVOLUME23HOWLONGWILLCITRUSJUICESTAYFRESH?24GETTINGTHEMOSTFROMYOURCITRUS24
CITRUSPROFILES27DaiquiriNo.328
CHAPTERNO2
OTHERJUICES31
TYPESOFJUICERS33FOODMILL33FOODPROCESSOR33JUICEEXTRACTOR33
BARTENDER’SCHOICE:BREVILLEJUICEFOUNTAINELITE33
IMPROVISATIONALJUICEEXTRACTION34StrainerMethod34MacgyverCentrifugeMethod36
APPLEJUICE38EQUIPMENTFORMAKINGAPPLECIDER38PICKINGAPPLESFORJUICING38APPLEBLEND39KEEPINGTHEJUICEFRESH39SHOULDYOUWORRYABOUTTHESEEDS?39FlannelShirt40
PINEAPPLEJUICE42PICKINGPINEAPPLESFORJUICING42KingstonClub42
TOMATOJUICE43THESANMARZANOHOAX43
POMEGRANATEJUICE44PICKINGAPOMEGRANATE44HOWTOJUICEAPOMEGRANATE44KEEPINGTHEFRUITANDJUICEFRESH44
GINGERJUICE45CHOOSINGGINGERFORJUICE45HOWTOJUICEGINGERWITHAJUICEEXTRACTOR45KEEPINGGINGERANDITSJUICEFRESH45
FRUITPUREES46HOWTOMAKEAFRUITPUREE46HowToMakeaStoneFruitPuree46STORINGFRUITPUREES46Bellini49
CHAPTERNO3
SODAS&MIXERS51
AHISTORYOFCARBONATION53CARBONATEDWATERASHEALTHTONIC54MECHANICALCARBONATION54HOWCARBONATIONWORKS55TomCollins56
SODAWATER57MAKINGYOUROWNSODA57HowtoUseaSodaSiphon57OtherWaystoCarbonate57
TONICWATER58MAKINGTONICWATER58QuinineSyrup59GinandTonic62GingerBeer65DarkandStormy68
SPARKLINGWINE70French7571
CHAPTERNO4
SIMPLESYRUPS73
SELECTINGTHERIGHTSUGAR75WHITESUGAR75
BROWNSUGAR75RAWSUGAR75MUSCOVADOSUGAR76HONEY76AGAVESYRUP76MAPLESYRUP77CALORIECOUNTSFORSUGARS77ASUGARISASUGARISASUGAR77
MEASURINGYOURINGREDIENTSFORSIMPLESYRUP78WHYCRYSTALSTRUCTUREMATTERS78DISSOLVINGTHESUGARINTHEWATER78HotProcess78ColdProcess80STORINGTHESYRUP80
SUGARSYRUPSINCOCKTAILS81HouseOld-Fashioned82RumOld-Fashioned82OaxacaOld-Fashioned83MapleOld-Fashioned83
CHAPTERNO5
COMPOUNDSYRUPS87
SWEETSYRUPSWITHADDEDFLAVOR90SWEET-AND-SOURSYRUPS90
FLAVORLESSBUTFAMILIAR:GUMSYRUP90GUMWHAT?91GumSyrup93
HERBSYRUP94HOWTOBLANCHHERBSFORSYRUPS94MintSyrup96
FRUITSYRUPS97
SOFTFRUITSYRUPS97SYRUPFROMFIBROUSINGREDIENTS97Grenadine98JackRose100RaspberrySyrup102CloverClub102GingerSyrup103PineappleSyrup103HotelNacionalSpecial106OleoSaccharum108PhiladelphiaFishHousePunch111
ORGEAT112JapaneseCocktail113
SHRUBS114Strawberry-MintShrub114
CHAPTERNO6
INFUSIONS,TINCTURES&BITTERS117
INFUSIONS119HOWINFUSIONSWORK119THECOMPLEXITIESOFFLAVORANDINFUSIONS119CHOOSINGYOURINGREDIENTS119HowtoInfuseLiquor121HOWTOSTRAININFUSEDLIQUOR122STORINGINFUSEDLIQUORS122TequilaPorMiAmante122INFUSINGWITHHOTCHILES124INFUSIONSOFHERBS,SPICES,ANDOTHERINGREDIENTS126InfusingwithHerbs126Thyme-InfusedCointreau127SpeedInfusionthroughPressure127
ToInfuseUsingaCreamWhipper127InfusingwithSpices127ChineseFive-SpicedDarkRum128Nocino129Limoncello130
WOODINFUSIONS,A.K.A.BARRELAGING132
AgingCocktailsDo’sandDon’ts132
TINCTURES133CHOOSINGALCOHOLSFORTINCTURES133HowtoMakeaTincture134CinnamonTincture134AutumnLeaves135
BITTERS136
ALCOHOLTHAT’STOOHARDTODRINK?136COMMERCIALBITTERS136AngosturaBitters137
Peychaud’sBitters137OrangeBitters137HouseOrangeBitters138Revolver140
CHAPTERNO7
DAIRY&EGGS143
CHOOSINGTHEBESTDAIRYPRODUCTSANDEGGS145
CREAM146AlexanderCocktail146WhatDoestheSell-ByDateMeanonaCartonofCream?147HOWTOSTORECREAM147
HOWTOWHIPCREAM147UsingaCreamWhipper147WhippingCreamManually147TheMasonJarMethod148IrishCoffee150
EGGS152MEASURINGEGGS152CRACKINGEGGS152WHOLEEGGCOCKTAILS153CynarFlip153ClydeCommonEggnog154EGG-WHITECOCKTAILS154HOWTOSEPARATEANEGG154TheShellMethod154TheHandMethod156TheToolMethod156HOWTOPREPAREANDSTOREEGGWHITES156HOWTOSHAKEANEGG-WHITECOCKTAIL157SealingaBostonShakerforaDryShake158WhiteLady161
CHAPTERNO8
ICE163
HOWICEBEHAVES165
WHYICECLARITYMATTERS165OBTAININGCLEARICE166
STORINGICE168
TRANSPORTINGICE168
HANDLINGICE168
TYPESOFICE170
BLOCKICE170HowtoBreakDownBlockIce170LARGE-FORMATICE172CUBES172SPEARS174CRACKEDICE174CRUSHEDICE174MintJulep176ICEFORPUNCH178AddingIcetothePunch178ChillingPunchExternally178MAKINGSPHERICALICE181
CHAPTERNO9
MEASURING183
WHYDOWEMEASURE?185OLDTERMINOLOGY185
MODERNMEASURES186THEMETRICSYSTEM187HOWMUCHISADASH?188
MEASURINGTOOLS188JIGGERS188HOWTOMEASURELIQUORPROPERLYUSINGJIGGERS189HOWTOPOURFROMABOTTLE189
SPEEDANDFREEDOM191SPEEDPOURINGVERSUSFREEPOURING:THETWOCAMPSOFMEASURING193WHYMETRICMAKESMORESENSE195Vesper196BATCHINGDRINKS196LiquidMeasurements197
CHAPTERNO10
STIRRING&SHAKING199
CHILLINGANDDILUTION201TimesandMeasurementsforIdealDilution202
STIRRING203THESPOON203
BARTENDER’SCHOICE:BARSPOON204STORINGBARSPOONSDURINGSERVICE204MIXINGGLASSES204
BARTENDER’SCHOICE:MIXINGGLASS206PROPERSTIRRINGTECHNIQUE206HowtoPerformtheJapaneseStir208STRAININGASTIRREDDRINK208HOWTOSTRAINWITHAJULEPSTRAINER208
BARTENDER’SCHOICE:JULEPSTRAINER208Martini210
SHAKING213THESHAKER213TheCobblerShaker213TheBostonShaker213TheParisianShaker214LEARNINGTOSHAKE214HowtoShakeaCocktail214HowLongtoShake215
SHAKINGDON’TSANDDO’S215OpeningtheShaker215HowtoSealandOpenaBostonShaker218StrainingTwiceforTexture218Fine-MeshStrainer218Sidecar220
CHAPTERNO11
OTHERMIXINGMETHODS223
BUILDINGINTHEGLASS225
ROLLING225HowtoRollaCocktail225
SWIZZLING226HowtoSwizzle226Queen’sParkSwizzle226
BLENDING227HowtoMakeaBlendedDrink227THEBLENDEROFDESIRE228
PiÑaColada229
MUDDLING230HowtoMuddleHerbs230Mojito233MUDDLERSFORFRUIT235HowtoMuddleFruit235Caipirinha237
“MIXING”ABSINTHE238ToServeAbsinthe238
FLAMINGDRINKS239FIRETOBURNALCOHOLANDBALANCEADRINK239BlueBlazer240
FIREFORTOASTING241CaféBrûlot242
FIREASCARAMELIZATIONTOOL243SpanishCoffee245
CHAPTERNO12
GARNISHING247
DROPPEDGARNISHES250CHERRIES250ImprovingonJarredCherries250DanielShoemaker’sBrandiedCherries252CherryPitter253OLIVES254StuffedOrNot254PittedorNot254HowManyOlives254ToSpearorNottoSpear255StoringOlives255HOWDOTHEPIMENTOSGETINTOTHEOLIVES?255ONIONS256ToddThrasher’sPickledOnions256
VISUALGARNISHES259FRESHHERBSANDFLOWERS259ChoosingHerbsandFlowersforGarnish259KeepingHerbsandFlowersFresh260CITRUSTWIST260ToolsforCuttingCitrusTwists260HowtoCutaTwist262
HORSE’SNECK262
HowtoMakeaHorse’sNeck262CITRUSWHEEL262ToolsforCuttingCitrusWheels264HowtoCutCitrusWheels264PINEAPPLEGARNISHES265HowtoCutPineappleTriangles265HowtoCutPineappleSpears265StoringPineappleGarnishes265
UTILITARIANGARNISHES266CITRUSWEDGES266HowtoChooseCitrusFruitforWedges266HowtoCutALengthwiseCitrusWedge266HowtoMakeaCross-CutWedge267WHIPPEDCREAM267
RIMMEDGARNISHES268HowtoRimaLip269HowtoCreateaBand269Margarita272
AROMATICGARNISHES274CITRUSPEEL274ChoosingFruitforMakingPeels274ToolsforCuttingPeels274HowtoCutaCitrusPeel275HowtoGarnishWithaPeel275THEFLAMEDORANGEPEEL277SPICES277SPRAYS278Sazerac278BITTERSDROPLETART281HowtoMakeDecorativeBittersArt281
Index282
ABOUTTHEAUTHORS289
WHYIMAKECOCKTAILS,ANDWHYIWROTETHISBOOKI’llneverforgetthefirsttimeIsteppedbehindthebar.ItwasthenightofApril25,1996,whichwasaThursday.I’dsomehowconvincedthemanagertogivemeajob,thoughIhadnoexperienceandwasabouttentimescockierintheinterviewprocessthanIwasinreallife—orahundredtimesmorethanIshouldhavebeen,givenmylimitedsocialskillset.
TheplacehadbeenaroundsincetherepealofProhibition,withsmoke-stainedwallsandNaugahydebooths.Itwasprettyrough-and-tumble,overinthesketchierpartoftown,oppositetheuniversitydistrict,whereIlived.Iwasnervousashell,andmyhandsshookasIwrotedowneveryorderfortheonlydrinkweservedthere:oneofthreebeersontap.Thatnight,andforprettymucheverynightthefirstsummerIspentthere,atleasttenpeopletoldmeIwastheworstbartenderthey’deverseen.
ButIhonestlydidn’tmuchcare.IwasattheUniversityofOregon,gettingmydegreeininteriorarchitecture,andbartendingatnighttomakesomemoney,meetsomeladies,andhavealittlefun.LittledidIknowthejobwouldgrowonme,andthatIwouldbegintogrowonthosepeoplewhothoughtIwastheworstbartenderever.
Itwasjustsupposedtobeasummerjob,butwhenthefallquarterrolledaround,theownersaskedmetostay.AndsoIdid.IworkedattheTinyTaverninEugene,Oregon,forfouryearswhileIwenttoschool,andthattimespentbehindthebarthere,servingthesamethreebeerseverynight,laidthefoundationforalife-longloveaffairwithbarsandbartending.
IstartedmyfirstarchitecturejobthesummerafterIgraduated.Itwasn’tentirelyfull-timework,soIkeptafewshiftsbehindthebartopaythebills.Itwasfine,andIwashappytobefinallyworkinginthefieldIthoughtIwantedtobein,butoverthecourseofseveralyearsIrealizedthatI’mnotreallythetypetositbehindadesk.
Ialsorealizedsomethingelse,somethingfarmoreimportant:bars,bartending,andcocktailsweremyhobby.Ifoundmyselfcominghomeeverynightandreadinguponclassiccocktails.Ispentmytimeatworkonline,biddingonout-of-printcocktailbooks,rarebartools,andevenrarerliquors.Ihadcocktailpartiesandregaledmyfriendswithtalesofthedaiquiri,sidecar,andManhattanwhilewesippedandswilled.
Eventuallyitbecamecleartomethatmyrealinterestlayinspendingtimebehindthebar,andIslowlyphasedoutthearchitecture—muchtothechagrinofmyfriendsandfamily.Ibecameinvolvedintheworldofrestaurants,climbedhigherandhigheruptheladderoffinedining,andlearnedmoreandmoreeverydayaboutthecraftoftendingbar.
Istartedmyownblog,mainlysoourguestscouldhaveaccesstomycocktailrecipes.Ibecamemoreconnectedinthegrowingworldwidecommunityofpeopleinterestedincocktails.Peoplebegantolooktomeforinformation,andatsomepointsomeonecalledmeanexpert.
It’sallverysurrealtothinkabout.WhenI’mnotactivelybehindthebar,Ispendmytimemanaging,traveling,speakingatseminarsandconferences,andtrainingthenextgenerationofbartenders.Andthesedays,it’sonlyonceamonththatsomeonereferstomeastheworstbartenderthey’veeverseen.
ANYGOODCOCKTAILNEEDSTHESETHREEELEMENTSWhenItrainbartenders,Ibeginbyteachingthemonebasicrule,andhereitis:Therearethreethings,ofequalimportance,thatmakeagreatcocktail.Andunlessallthreearegiventheirduerespect,thedrinkyoumakeisn’tgoingtoreachitsfullpotential.
ThefirstoftheseistheRECIPEthatyouchoose.Let’ssaywe’regoingtomakeawhiskeysourinthisexample.Well,ifyoureallystartdoingyourresearch,you’regoingtofindthatthereareaboutathousanddifferentrecipesoutthereforawhiskeysour.ChecktheInternetifyoudon’tbelieveme.Oneoldbookmighttellyoutobeginwith1oz/30mlofwhiskeyand2oz/60mlofsourmix,butsomeguy’sblogmightarguethatit’sgottabe2oz/60mlofwhiskey,withfreshlemonjuiceandadollopofeggwhite.Anotherrecipemightbetoosweet,andyetanothermightnotbesweetenough.Choosingtherightrecipeisexactlyone-thirdofthebattle.
Thesecondthingthat’sgoingtomakeorbreakourwhiskeysouristheINGREDIENTSwechoose.Somewhiskeysarebettersuitedtothedrinkthanothers.Ahigher-proofbourbonwhiskeyisgoingtoshinethroughtheotheringredientsbetterthanalower-proofIrishwhiskey.Ifwe’reusinglemonjuice,isitfreshorfrozen?Ifwe’reusingeggwhites,aretheypasteurizedandpackagedorfreshfromalocalfarm?Allofthesedecisionsareasimportantastherecipewe’vespentyearsresearchingandperfecting.
Butthethirdthing,theonethat’ssooftenoverlookedbybartendersandhomemixers,andthethingthat’sthesubjectofthisbook,isTECHNIQUE.Everythingfromjuicingthoselemonsproperly,preparingyoureggwhites,andmeasuringtheingredientstohowthedrinkisshaken,strained,andservedinaperfectlychilledglassisasimportantastherecipeandingredientsyou’veselected.
Asyoumightguess,thereareplentyofbooksoutthereaboutrecipes.Andtherearemoreandmorevolumesonbookstoreshelveseverydayaboutcocktailingredients.Butthisbookaimstobeamongthefirstinwhatwillhopefullybecomeanongoingconversationabouttechnique.
I’VEORGANIZEDTHEBOOKTHEWAYIBUILDMYCOCKTAILSThechaptersinthisbookarelaidoutalittledifferentlythanmostotherbooks.Thereisnochapteronvodka—infacttherearenochaptersonalcoholatall.Instead,wehavebrokendownthecocktail-makingprocessasyouwoulddoitbehindthebar.Thefirstthirdofthebookisallaboutprep:we’llteachyouhowtogetyourjuicesready,prepareyoursyrups,makeyourbitters,andproduceyourice.Nextwe’llshowyouhowtoputthedrinktogether:howtomeasureandproperlymix.Andthenwe’llshowyouhowthedrinkisfinishedandserved.
I’veincludedafewofmyfavoriterecipes,whichI’vecollectedovertheyears—myown,someofmyfriends’,andsomeofthebestversionsoftheclassicsI’vefound—inordertoillustratesomeofthepointswe’remakingabouttechnique,andtoshowyouhowthesetechniquesareapplied.
CHAPTERNO1
CITRUSJUICE
THEBRACINGFOUNDATIONOFAWIDERANGEOFCOCKTAILS
Everydayatmybar,wetypicallyjuiceintheneighborhoodofonecaseoflemons,three-quartersofacaseoflimes,halfacaseofgrapefruit,andhalfacaseoforanges.That’severysingleday.WhenIseehowmuchcitruswegothroughonanaveragebusydayandnight,IthinkbacktothefirstcocktailbarIworkedin.Itwasthedaytimebartender’schoretoheadovertothegrocerystoreacrossthestreeteverymorningandpickupapackofVirginiaSlimsforthedaytimecook,oneofthosebigmetalcansofgrapefruitjuice,andsixlimesandsixlemonsforgarnishingginandtonicsandicedteas.AndIrememberclearlythatatonepoint,thewomanwhowastrainingmeinformedmethat“limesandlemonsareactuallythesamething;limesarejustunripenedlemons.”Thatwasn’treallytoolongago,butIfeellikewe’veallcomealongway.
Citrusissoubiquitousincocktailsnowadaysthatit’softentakenforgranted.BackwhenIcameofageandstartedhangingaroundinbars,drinkswerebeingmadewithcanned,neon-greensourmix,andnobodythoughttwiceaboutit.Thesedaysweshouldn’tthinkofusinganythingotherthanfresh-squeezedjuiceinourcocktails.Andyet,astoday’scraftbartendersturntheirattentiontothingssuchasapothecaryherbsandesoterictinctures,thebasiclemonorlimestilldoesn’treallygettheattentionit’sdue.
Citruswasprettymuchtreasuredbyearliercivilizations;itwasusedasasourceofperfumeandotherbeautyproducts,asamedicine,andofteninreligiousceremonies.Thesatsuma,citron,andmandarin—threeoftheearliestancestorsofthecitrusweknowtoday—madetheirwayfromcontinenttocontinent,thankstoearlyexplorersandtraders(andsometimesconquerers,suchasAlexandertheGreat,whowasabigcitronfan).CultivationandconsumptionofthefruitsspreadfromIndiatoPersia(modern-dayIran),andeventuallyaroundtheMediterraneanrim,includingtheMiddleEast,NorthAfrica,andEurope.
CitrusmadeittoNorthAmericainthefifteenthcentury,supposedlyarrivingviaChristopherColumbus(hey,atleasthebroughtsomethingotherthanjustdiseaseandgenocidewithhim),andahalfcenturylater,explorerPoncedeLeónplantedorangegrovesaroundSt.Augustine,Florida.Thoseearlytreeshaveledtoamultibillion-dollarorangeindustryinFlorida.
Thenotionofmixingcitruswithalcohol—which,aswe’vesaid,isagivennowadays—probablytookmillenniatocatchon.Despitetheuseofcitrusinprettymucheveryfacetofdailylife,theconceptofcitrusandalcoholdidn’treallybecomewidespreaduntiltheearlyseventeenthcentury,whenmixingspiritswithcitrusandsugartookholdinBritainanditscolonies.
Variationsonlemonorlimejuicemixedwithalcohol—punch—werebeingsippedindrawingroomsaroundEngland,butthepairingcaughtfiregloballyoncetheBritishRoyalNavygotatasteforitandrealized,aftermuchtrialanderror,thatcitruscouldstaveoffscurvyinitssailors.TheRoyalNavy–madebeveragebecameastaple,andastheBritishsailorstraveled,sodidpunch.Thatcombinationofhotandsour—mitigatedbysugar,water,andspices—seemstobesomethingourhumanphysiologyrespondsfavorablyto,becausesomanycocktailsstillusecitrusastheirbackbone.
Citrusinallitsformsbringsmuchtotheparty:quartersaremuddled,peelsarezested,oilsareextracted,andwedgesaresqueezedoverthetop.Butit’sthejuice—sour,fresh,pungent,bracingjuice—thatbringsthemosttotheworldofcocktails.Andsoit’sabsolutelycriticalthatyouknowhowtochoose,store,andhandlecitrusfruit,andthencoaxoutthebestqualityjuicefromit,ifyou’regoingtobeabletomakeapropercocktail.
CHOOSINGYOURFRUITWhenwetalkaboutcitrusincocktails,we’remostlydiscussinglimes,lemons,oranges,andgrapefruits.Butyuzu,Buddha’shand,kumquats,andotherexoticscanallbefoundnowinthemodernbartender’stoolbox.
Aswitheverythingthatyou’llusetomakeacocktail,thefirstcriterionwhenchoosingcitrusisfreshness.Withprettymucheveryotherfoodtype,Iwouldadvocateworkingwithalocalgrower,butunlessyou’relivinginaclimatealongthe
linesofCalifornia’s,CostaRica’s,orMorocco’s,thatmaynotbefeasible.
Fortunately,mostcitrushasamoderatelylongshelflifeandwillstaybrightanddeliciousforuptoaweekafteryoubuyit.Thespecificcharacteristicsthatyouneedtolookforwhenchoosingcitruswilldependonwhatyou’regoingtodowithit.Whenweselectcitrusatourbar,weplacethefruitintooneoftwocategories:fruitforjuicingorfruitforgarnishes.
Citrusfruitthatistobejuicedshouldbeplump,onthesoftside,andheavyforitssize,withthethinnestandsmoothestskinpossible,whichisanindicationofmorejuice-producingcontents.Andathin,suppleskinjustmakesiteasiertosqueeze.Theskincolorofjuicefruitdoesn’tmattermuch;nordoafewblemishes.Toevaluatefruitforjuice,youneedtoheftquiteafewtofindtheheavy,plumpones.
Forgarnishes,Iwantcitruswiththickerskinorapebbledsurface,andabright,evencolor.Ialsowantfruitthathasn’tbeentreatedwithpesticidesandisn’tcoatedwithwax.(Learnmoreaboutmakingandusingcitrusgarnishesinchapter12.)Unfortunately,youusuallydon’tgetitallinthesamepieceoffruit,butforbothjuiceandgarnishfruit,choosingorganicisalwaysagoodstart.
BUYINGINBULK
Theprofessionalbartenderhastheconvenienceofadailyfreshproducedeliverytotherestaurantorbarroomdoor.Butthisisn’tthecasefortheaverage,orhome,bartender.Whenplanningforjustafewcocktails,sourcingcitrusisjustamatterofgoingtoadecentgrocerystore.Butifyou’replanningalargeevent,ormakingcocktailcomponentsthatusealotofcitrus(suchasHouseOrangeBitters,page138),havingaccesstowholesalepricescanmakeabigdifference.
Somerestaurant-supplywholesalerswillselltothegeneralpublic,butfindingthemcantakealittlesleuthing.Agoodpracticeistocontactyourfavoritelocallyownedrestaurant(chainrestaurantsoftenhavetheirowninternalsupplyavenues)orbarandaskwhomtheyprocurecitrusfrom.Contactthefrontofficeofthatparticulardistributorandaskifthey’llselltothegeneralpublic.
Afarsimpleralternativeistocontactyourlocalsupermarketorgrocerandsimplyasktheproducemanagerforbulk-buyingoptions.Oftenaproducemanagerwillbeabletoofferadiscountforpurchasingcitrusbythecase,soitneverhurtstoaskaboutyouroptionsthere.Planonorderingseveraldaysinadvance.
AnotheroptionisfindingalargeAsianorLatinmarket,whichcanbefoundinmostsizablecities.Afterjustashortdriveandafriendlyconversationwiththemarket’sproducemanager,youmayleavewithawholelotoffresh,gorgeouscitrusatbargainprices.Plus,Ifindthesemarketsofferanexcitingarrayofotherproductsthataren’tfoundattraditionalAmericansupermarkets.Ienjoybrowsingaroundthemandgleaninginspirationfornewcocktailcombinations.
Onceyougetyourfruithomeortoyourbar,youwanttostoreitinawaythatwillkeepitfresh,whichinthecaseofcitrus,isintherefrigerator.There’samythouttherethatchillingcitruswillreducetheyieldofjuice,sosomebartendersleaveitonthecounter,butyoucantrustmewhenItellyouthatthisisaloadofbull.Checkouttheexperimentwedidonpage24.
HOWMUCHJUICECANYOUEXPECT?
Nowthatyou’vefoundasourcefortheleastexpensive,freshestcitrusinyourtown,it’stimetodeterminehowmuchtobuy.Obviously,differentvarietiesofcitrusaregoingtoyielddifferentquantitiesofjuiceatdifferenttimesoftheyear,buthere’saroughguide,whichcanatleasthelpyoumakeyourshoppinglist.
FRUIT AVERAGEYIELDOFJUICE
Lime 1oz/30ml
Lemon 1.5oz/45ml
Meyerlemon 2oz/60ml
Navelorange 3oz/90ml
Grapefruit 8oz/240ml
CHOOSINGTHERIGHTJUICER
Thebartenderhasseveralchoicesofequipmenttousewhenjuicingfruit,andthechoicewillbeamatterofwhatkindoffruitandhowmuchjuiceisneeded.
HANDPRESSES
Thesimplestoptionforjuicingathomeorinasmall-scalebarprogramiswhatwerefertoasahandpress(alsocalledaclamshell-type)juicer.Therearetwomaintypes,withminorstylisticdifferencesbetweenthem.Bothrequirethefruittobeplacedcut-sidedownintheunit.Atfirst,thisseemscounter-intuitive,giventheshapeofthejuicer,butIrepeat(probablyseveralmoretimes):placethecitruscut-sidedown.
Thefirsttypeofhandpressisanolderstyle;ithasnoholesinitsflatbase,butmerelyasmallreservoiraroundtheconeandapourspoutoneitherorbothsides.Youplaceahalflemonorlimeonthebasecut-sidedown,swingthehingedtophalfovertoembracethefruit,andthensqueezethehandlestogethertoputpressureonthefruitandreleasethejuice,whichflowsoutofthepourspout.
Sadly,thistypeofpressisnearlyextinct,butvintagecast-ironoraluminummodelscanbefoundatonlineauctionsitesorantiquesmalls.ThebestoneswereoncemadebyEbaloy,andIthinkthey’reworthseekingoutfortheireaseofuseanddurability.Asanaside,Iwouldthinktwicebeforeusingoneoftheseantiquesinaprofessionalbarsetting,asantiqueshaveahardtimehandlingrepeateduse.
Theother,morecommon,typeofhandpressalsoconsistsoftwopartshingedtogether.Thebasehasholesinittoallowthejuicetoflowout,andthetophalfhasabulbousprotrusionthatpushesintothecutfruitandturnsitontoitselfsothatthejuicecanflowthroughtheholes.Thereareinexpensivecast-ironmodelsfromMexico,whichareusuallyfairlysmall.But,whilegoodforjuicingsmalllimes,theymaybeworthlesswhenyou’rejuicinganythinglarger.
Thebestall-aroundhandpressisanenameledaluminumjuicermadebyAmco.Theymakefour:asmallgreenmodelmeantforlimes,amediumyellowmodelforlemons,andanorangemodelfor,well,oranges.There’salsoatwo-in-onemodelwithaplasticinsertmadeforbothlemonsandlimes—skipit.Andalsoskipthegreenlimemodelaswell.Thelemonandorangemodelswillsuitallofyourneedsjustfine;theycostaboutasmuchasacheapbottleofwine.
Butmyfavoriteisagorgeoussolidstainless-steeljuicermadebyNorpro,whichI’vefalleninlovewithinrecentyears.It’saroundthreetimesthecostoftheAmcoenameledaluminummodels,butifit’sstyleyou’regoingfor,thereisnorival.
MECHANICALPRESSES
Movingupthetechnologyscale,themechanicalcitruspress,ormanualstandjuicer,isthego-toforbartenderslookingtojuicealargeramountofjuice,foreitherapartyormedium-scalecocktailprogram.
Therearetwobasictypes:Thefirstisagearlessunitthatoperateswithleversandhasahandlemountedonthefront.ThemostpopularproducerofthisstyleisRaChand,whichmakesavarietyofcast-aluminumjuicers.Whilethelackofgearsandinterchangeablepartsmakesthistypeofjuicerasturdier,longerlastingpieceofequipmentthanothers,Ifindthefront-mountedhandleabitclumsy;it’sdifficulttogetproperleverageunlessyoucanpositionthejuicerbelowcounterorbar-toplevel.
ThemorecommonstandjuicerusedbytheprofessionalbartenderistheHamiltonBeach932commercialcitrusjuicer.Thisisaside-mountedjuicerwithagearedhandleandisbyfarthemostcomfortabletouseforlargejobs.ThebiggestdrawbackIfindwiththisunitisthatyoucan’treplacethegearsandtightentheindividualparts.Ifyou’regoingtobejuicingaverylargequantityofproduceaday,planonreplacingtheuniteverythreetosixmonths.Forthemorecasualuser,it’lllastagoodlongwhile.
ELECTRICPRESSES
Themostcomplextype,anelectricpress,commonlyreferredtoasanelectricjuicer,isalsothebestoptionforaprogramthatwillbeservingalargenumberofguests.Theinitialcostis,obviously,higherthantheprecedingtwotypesofmanualjuicers,butthesecommercial-gradejuicerswillendureyearsofabuse,manymorethantheirmanualcounterparts.
BARTENDER’SCHOICE:ELECTRICJUICER
Myfavoriteelectricjuicer,andtheonethat’swidelypreferredbyprofessionalbartenders,istheSunkistjuicer,modelJ1,whichrunsaround$600/£650.This1/4-horsepowermonsterwrappedinachrome-platedhousingandtoppedwithadomedplasticshellhasbeenaroundforyears,anditwillbearoundformanymore.
JUICINGTECHNIQUE
Whenwetalkaboutcitrusbehindthebar,weoftenuseanearth-inspiredmetaphor:Oneitherendofthe(usually)oblongfruitisa“pole.”Thestemend(NorthPole)iswherethefruitwasformerlyattachedtothetree;that’stheendwiththelittlebrownnubbin.Thestylarend(SouthPole)isattheoppositeendofthefruit,withnoindentationorstemremainder,butoftenwithanippledend.TheequatorencirclesthefruitandisequidistantfromtheNorthandSouthPoles.
CUTTINGYOURFRUITFORJUICING
Allcitrustobejuicedshouldbecutalongtheequator,perpendiculartothemembranesthatseparatetheindividualsegmentsinside.Bisectinginthisdirectionopenstheinteriorofthefruitcompletelyandmaximizesthejuiceextracted.Ifyou’repreppingalotofcitrusforjuicing,youcandothisbeforehand;there’snoneedtocuteachfruitimmediatelybeforejuicing.Cutyourfruitupto2hoursbeforejuicing,andkeepitintherefrigeratoronceit’sbeencut.
HOWTOJUICECITRUSFRUITWITHAHANDPRESS
Youcanjuicecitrustomakejustasinglecocktailusingaprocessthatthekitchencallsàlaminute(pronouncedahlahmee-NOOT),whichisaculinarytermthatbasicallymeans“toorder.”Inthiscase,you’lljuicethefruitusingahandpressandthenmeasureitdirectlyinthejigger.(Moreaboutmeasuringinchapter9.)
Tousethemodernhandpress,orclamshell-type,juicer(suchasthecolorfulones),putyourcitrushalfintothebottomhalfofthepress,cut-sidedown.Thismightnotfeelcorrectatfirst,becausetheconcaveshapeofthepressmakesyouthinkyoushouldnestlethefruitrightintoit,butyoushouldn’t.Swingthetophalfoverandsqueezethetwotogether,overyourglassorjigger.Thiswillpushthebulbinthetophalfintothecitrus,ineffectforcingitinsideoutasitsqueezesoutthejuice.
However,theprofessionalbartenderorhomeentertainerwillmostoftenbepreparingalargerquantityofjuiceinadvance.Thereareseveraladvantagestothis:First,juicingalotofcitrusmakesamess,whichyoudon’tnecessarilywantondisplayforyourguests;keepingthebarlookingcleanandtidyispartofthejob.Second,youcanstoreyourfresh-squeezedjuiceinplasticorglassbottlesandthenmeasureitoutonacocktail-by-cocktailbasis,expeditingthedrink-makingprocess—alwaysabonuswhenyou’refacedwithalarge,thirstycrowd.
HOWTOJUICEINVOLUME
Whenjuicinginlargerquantities,it’sreallybesttouseamechanicalorelectricpress,althoughIhavespentmoreoccasionsthanIcaretorememberwithagroupofbartendershuddledaroundcardboardcasesofprecutcitrus,handpressingfastandfuriouslyintoalargebucketaswepreppedforoneeventoranother.It’snotfun,andit’snotpretty,butitworksinapinch.
Startbycuttingallyourcitrus,andthensetthemechanicalorelectricjuicerinplace.Nexttothejuicer,setalargecontainer(abowlorplasticbucket)andpositionafine-meshstraineroverthetop.Theobjectofthestrainer,andIfeelverystronglyaboutthis,istocatchanypulporseeds,leavingyouwithsmooth,uniformcitrusjuicereadytobebottled.
Onceyou’vejuicedyourfruit,sealitincleanbottlesorcontainers,labelit,refrigeraterightaway,andkeepitascoldaspossible.
HOWLONGWILLCITRUSJUICESTAYFRESH?
Fresh-squeezedjuicechangesovertime,andstrangelyenough,thatchangedoesn’tgoinastraightlinefromfreshanddelicioustooldandstale.Whilealljuiceisverygoodinthefirstmomentsafteryousqueezeit,lemon,lime,andgrapefruitareactuallyabitbetterforcocktailsoncethey’vegotafewhoursofageonthem.Orangejuiceisadifferentstory,however.
OrangescontainflavorlesssubstancescalledLARL(limonoateA-ringlactone)andNARL(nomilinoateA-ringlactone).Duringandaftersqueezing,thosesubstancesareconvertedbyanenzyme,whichisalsopresentinoranges,intolimonin,whichisverybitter.Theearlierintheseasonthefruitispicked,themoreLARLandNARLtherewillbe.Ideally,youshouldsqueezeorangestoorder,ordefinitelyusethejuicewithinanhouratmost.
FRUITJUICE OPTIMALAGE MAXIMUMAGE
Grapefruit 4to12hours 48hours
Lemon 4to12hours 24hours
Lime 4to12hours 24hours
Orange 0to1hour 4hours
GETTINGTHEMOSTFROMYOURCITRUS
There’salotofconjecturethesedaysaboutwhichtrickextractsthemostjuicefromcitrusfruit.Somepeopleswearbyrollingandpressingthefruitonthecounter,tocrushthejuicesacsinside.Somethinkawarmerpieceoffruityieldsmorejuicethanastraight-from-the-fridgeone,andsomepeopleevenrecommendmicrowavingthecitrusinordertoextractmorejuice(Idefinitelypassedonthismethod).Rollingthefruitandbringingthemtoroomtemperaturebothmadesensetomeintheory,butI’dneverreallyinvestigatedtheseoptionsmyself.SoIsetouttodoalittleexperiment.
Igatheredsixtylemonsanddividedthemintofourgroupsoffifteenlemons.Iweighedeachgroupoflemons,makingsmalladjustmentsbetweenthegroupssothateachgroupweighedmoreorlessthesame,andthenIgaveeachgroupadifferenttreatment.
GROUP1:Ilefttheseintherefrigerator;thiswastobemycontrolgroup.Afterall,thefridgeiswheremostofusathome(andallofusinthebarandrestaurantbusiness)keepourfruit.
GROUP2:ThesecondgroupIleftoutinabowlonmykitchencounterovernight(aboutninehours).
GROUP3:Irefrigeratedthese,butIalsorolledthefruitfirmlyonthecounterwiththepalmofmyhandbeforejuicing.
GROUP4:ThislastgroupIleftoutinanotherbowlonthecounter,butaswithGroup3,Irolledthemfirmlyonthecounterbeforejuicing.ThislastgroupwastheoneIhadthemostconfidencein;afterall,I’mapplyingbothtricks,sothisshouldgiveusthegreatestyield,right?
WhenIwasreadytojuice,Irecordedtheaveragetemperatureofeachgroupwithadigitalthermometer,andthenIcutandjuicedeachgroupandstrained,measured,andweighedtheresults.
Theresultswererathersurprising.
Andifyoutakeacloselookattheresults,youseesomeprettygoodnews:goingthroughtheextrastepdoesn’tmakeawholeheckofalotofdifference.Youcankeepthefruitfresher,colder,andspareyourselfsomeeffort—whilestillendingup
withthebestyield—bysimplystoringitinthefridge.
CITRUSPROFILES
BITTERORANGE:ThemostwellknownistheSeville.Allvarietiesaretoobittertoeatoutofhandandinsteadarefrequentlyusedtomakemarmalades.Theiressentialoilsflavorfoodsandliquors,suchascuraçao.
BLOODORANGE:TheseareinthesamefamilyastheValenciaandthenavel,buttheircolorismuchmoredramatic.ThemostcommonareMorooranges.Thepeelwilloften,thoughnotalways,beflushedwithred,buttheinteriorofabloodorangeisadeepmagenta,andthejuiceretainsthatcolor.Bloodorangesareverysweet,withsomeberrynotestotheflavor.
BUDDHA’SHAND:Withitsstartlingshape,Buddha’shandlooksnothinglikeitsessentiallyroundcitruscousins.Themultifingered,fragrantfruitisatypeofcitron,anancientcitrusthatislongonrindandshortonflesh.TheBuddha’shandhasnofleshorjuiceatall,justlotsofzesttopareorgrate,andthewhitepithunderneathisverymild.
KEYLIME:AsmallerrelativeofthePersianlime,keylimesarethinnerskinned,andsomewhatmorefragrant,andaremostlyusedindesserts.Butthejuiceisfantasticandshouldbeconsideredforcocktails.
KUMQUAT:TheShetlandponiesofthecitrusworld,thesemarble-sizefruitsareallaboutthepeel,whichiscandy-sweet,incontrasttothesour-bitterfleshandseedsinside.Youcan’tjuiceakumquat,butwe’veseendrinksinwhichthefruithasbeenmuddled.
LEMON:Thetwomainvarieties—theLisbonandtheEureka—aresosimilarthatevenmostproduceexpertscan’ttellthemapart.Withinthesevarieties,however,thereisplentyofvariation,fromthickskinnedandsomewhatdrytothinskinnedandjuicy.
MEYERLEMON:Meyersareacrossbetweenalemonandatypeoforange,probablyamandarin.Theyhavethin,tenderskinthat’sverydeepyellow,headingtowardorange.They’resuperjuicy,andtheflavorissweet,lessacidic,andalmostfloral.
NAVELORANGE:Whilethesearemostlydestinedtobeeatingoranges,theyproducedeliciousjuiceandareoftenmorebrightlycoloredthanValencias,whichmeansthey’realsogoodforgarnishing.Navelorangejuicewillbecomebittermore
quicklybecausetheyareattheirpeakinthewintermonths(seepage24).LookforCaraCaranavels,whichhaveabeautifulpinkcolortotheflesh.
PERSIANLIME:Thisisthenameforthecommonlime,butofcourseit’sanythingbutcommon.Perfumed,sweet-tart,andmoderatelyacidic,limejuiceandzestplayahugeroleincocktails.
RIOSTARGRAPEFRUIT:Thisisthe“it”grapefruitofthemoment.GrowninTexasandavailablefromlatewinterthroughApril,thesethin-skinnedgrapefruitsarefantasticforjuicing,aswellaseating.Thefleshisadeeppink,andextremelysweetandjuicy,especiallyastheseasonprogresses;they’reattheirpeakofsweetnessinMarch.OthergrapefruitvarietiestolookforareHoneygoldandOroblanco,whichisagrapefruit-pomelohybrid.
TANGERINEANDMANDARIN:Therearemultiplemembersofthisfamily,andit’seasytogetlostinthevariations,butgenerallytangerine-typecitrushasaloose,easy-to-peelskin,whichiswhytheyareprimarilymeanttobeeatenoutofhand.Thejuiceisdelicious,however,floralandverysweet.
VALENCIAORANGE:Thesearetheorangesmostoftenusedforjuicing.They’rethinskinnedandjuicy,butcontainplentyofseeds.They’reattheirpeakinlatespringthroughsummer.
YUZU:ThisisasomewhatexoticcitrusnativetoChinaandgreatlyappreciatedinmodernJapan.Theslightlywrinklyroundfruitisn’tgoodforeating—fullofbigseedsandnotmuchjuice—butthefragranceisextraordinary,likeacombinationofthebestgrapefruitandlemon.
DAIQUIRINO.3
ByConstantinoRibalaiguaVert
AttheFloriditabarinHavana,Cuba,inthe1930sand1940s,thedaiquiriwasking,andanextensivedaiquirimenuwasdevelopedthere,dueinlargeparttobartenderslikeConstantinoRibalaiguaVert.HisfamedDaiquiriNo.3wasconsumedinmassivequantitiesbyErnestHemingway,thoughhetookhis“withoutsugaranddoubletherum,”whichbecamethelegendaryHemingway,orPapadoble,daiquiri.
Personally,IfindtheHemingwaydaiquirirepulsiveandinsteadpreferConstante’soriginal.
MAKES1DRINK
2oz/60mlwhiterum1/2oz/15ml2:1simplesyrup(seepage78)1/2oz/15mlfreshlimejuice1/4oz/7.5mlgrapefruitjuice1tsp/5mlmaraschinoliqueur,preferablyLuxardoIcecubesforshaking
Crushediceforserving
1limewedgeforgarnish
OLD-FASHIONEDGLASS
Combinetherum,simplesyrup,limejuice,grapefruitjuice,andmaraschinoliqueurinacocktailshakerormixingglass.Shakewithicecubesandstrainovertheold-fashionedglassfilledwithcrushedice.Garnishwiththelimewedgeandservewithastraw.
CHAPTERNO2
OTHERJUICES
TECHNIQUESFORAWIDERARRAYOFFLAVORS
So,asImentionedbefore,Islowlyphasedoutmycareerinarchitectureinexchangeforacareerbehindthebar.AndI’veneverbeenhappieraboutachoice,becauseIessentiallygetpaidtodomyhobbyeverydaynow.Butabigpartofmestilllovesthestudyofthebuiltenvironment—thedesignprocessandconstruction.Soit’snaturalthatIlookforparallelstodrawbetweenmytwofields,butit’snotalwaysthateasy.
WhenIwaslookingforawaytointroducethischapter,itfinallycametomeasIsatthinkingabouttheothertypesofjuice,besidescitrus,thatweusebehindthebar:citrusjuiceislikeawoodentwo-by-four.It’sthemostbasicmaterialouttherewhenyou’retalkingabouttheconstructionofacocktail.Butthereareotherbuildingmaterialsthatneedtobeconsidered.Someofthemareclassicandsturdy,likemasonry.Othersaremoreexotic,likebamboo.Buttheyallhavetheirtimeandplace,andknowinghowtouseeachoneisahallmarkofawell-trainedbartender.
Fruitjuicesotherthancitrushavebeenusedincocktailsforalongtime.Imean,theUnitedStateswasprettymuchbuiltonboozyapplejuice.EthanAllenandhisGreenMountainBoysknockedbackciderdosedwithcopiousamountsofrumontheeveoftheraidonFortTiconderoga,whichsucceededincuttingoffakeysupplyroutefortheBritish.
Ascolonialsettlersmovedwest,theyneededorchardsinordertostakeaclaimontheland.JohnChapman—therealJohnnyAppleseed—plantedapplenurseriesthatallowedsettlerstogetajumpontheirorchards.Thoseapplesweremostlikelyusedtomakealcoholicappleciderorapplejack—applebrandy,essentially.
Theexoticpineapplehadbeencutupandusedtoflavorsyrupsandpunches,ortodecoratejuleps,forsometime,butitwasn’tuntilaroundtheProhibitionperiodthatwebegantoseepineapplejuicemakinganappearanceinAmericancocktails.
Nowitisthemostoften-usedjuiceindrinks,asidefromcitrus.TomatojuicemadeitsdebutinBloodyMarysataboutthesametime.Whatcornerbarwouldthinktwiceaboutstockingtomatojuiceasanecessarystaplethesedays?
Nowthatbartendershavebeguntoworkmorecloselywiththekitchen—hell,someofthebestbartendersintheworldstartedbackthere—theyhaveembracedthewideworldoffruitsavailabletothemandgivenusallahugelegupbyshowingushowtoworkwithfruitsandvegetablesinamoreculinaryway.
Sinceonlyafewproductsareactually“juice-able”(thatis,youcanpressorsqueezethemandthenextractamoreorlessclearliquid),we’realsoconsideringfruitpurees,inwhichthesolidsareblendedwiththeliquidinsidethefruit—anothertechniqueperfectlysuitedtococktails.Allofthesemethodsareanotherfoundationuponwhichyou’llbeabletoconstructsturdy,well-executedcocktails.
TYPESOFJUICERSTherearethreemaintoolsthatweusetojuicefruitsandvegetables.Mychoiceisbasedonboththecharacteroftheproduce(isitsoft,hard,fibrous,mushy?)andthequantityofjuicethatIneedtomake.
FOODMILL
Themostbasictoolformakingjuice,ortechnically,apuree,isafoodmill,whichisasortofstainless-steelstrainerfittedwithaplatethatyoucrankinordertopushthefoodthrough.Afoodmillislargeandunwieldy—certainlynotwhatwewanttousetomakedrinkstoorder—butitdoeshavetheadvantageofstrainingoutskinsandseedsasyouprocessthefruit.Foodmillsarebestforcreatingpureesofsoftfruit,suchasberriesorstonefruits,ratherthanclearjuices.Youcanachievenearlythesameeffectwithastrainerandasmallladleorspoon(seepage34),providedyou’reworkingwithasmallquantityofreallysoftfruit,suchasraspberries.
FOODPROCESSOR
Aregularfoodprocessormakesforareallygoodjuicer.Unlikeablender,thefoodprocessor’sbladeiswide,whilethebowlisshallow,maximizingthecontactbetweenfoodandsteel.Thefoodprocessordestroysthecellwallsofthefruitorvegetabletoreleasethejuice,soyouneedtotakefurtherstepstostrainandfilteroutanyfiber.AthomeIusetheMacGyvercentrifugemethod(seepage36)whenI’mjuicingapplesorotherfruitswithalotofmembrane,suchaspineapples.
JUICEEXTRACTOR
Thetoolthatworksbestforeverythingis,ofcourse,themosthighlyengineered,andthemostexpensive.Ajuiceextractorworksinanentirelydifferentmannerthanafoodprocessor.Spinningbladesgrindthefoodintoapulp,whichisthenthrownagainstaspinningperforateddrum,forcingthejuicethroughthedrumscreen,andthepulpoutthroughachuteinthebackoftheunit.Yougetthebenefitofhorsepower,centrifugalforce,andfinescreeningallinone,whichisgreatifyou’retryingtojuice“stalky,”fibrousvegetablessuchasceleryorrhubarb,orharderrootsandrhizomessuchasbeetsorginger.
Thebiggestdrawbackhereiscost:aprofessionalmodelcanrunupwardof$300/£350.Thegoodnewsisthateverydecadeorso,thenationgoesthroughasortoffreshjuice/smoothiedietcraze,sojuiceextractorsareplentifulatyourlocalthriftshop.Theseusedhomemodelsmightnotwithstandintensejuicinginalarge-scalebarprogram,butthey’llcostone-tenthofthepriceofnewmodels,makingthemwellworthashot.
BARTENDER’SCHOICE:BREVILLEJUICEFOUNTAINELITE
Thisisabeautifulmachinewithalotofpower,andaseriouspricetagofabout$300/£300.Foraprofessionalsituation,thepriceismoneywellinvested.Forhomeuse,thisjuiceextractormaybeasplurge,butyouwon’tregretitifyou’relookingforaprofessional-gradepieceofequipmentthatwilllastforyears.
IMPROVISATIONALJUICEEXTRACTIONForsmallerjobs,likewhenyou’reentertainingathome,thereisgoodsuccesstobehadwithoutthepricetagofapowerhousejuiceextractor.Followingaretwowaysofmakingjuicesathome:
StrainerMethod
Ifit’samatterofasmallquantityofreallysoftfruit,suchasberriesorkiwis,I’llsimplyforcethefruitthroughalargestrainerusingthebackofametalladle.
1.Placealargemeshstraineroveracontainer,putasmallamountofthefruitintothestrainer,and,withthebackofamediumstainless-steelladleoralargespoon,mashthefruitinacircularmotiontopushitthroughthestrainer.
2.Afteryou’vemashedabit,scrapethejuicypulpfromtheundersideofthestrainerintothecontainer.Theinsideofthestrainerwilleventuallygetcloggedwithseedsorskin,dependingonyourfruit,soscrapeoutthatspentpulpfromtimetotimealso,anddiscard.
3.Ifneeded,giveyourjuiceafinalstrainthroughanotherstrainerwithafinermesh.Forfreshestflavor,usejuiceimmediately.
MacGyverCentrifugeMethod
Forfruitthatdoesn’teasilycollapseintoapuree—suchasanappleorpineapple—IalwaysusemyfoodprocessorinconjunctionwithalittlesomethingIliketocalltheMacGyvercentrifuge.
1.Cuttwo36-in/91.5-cmlengthsofcheesecloth(soldinpacksatgoodgroceryorkitchensupplystores).Rinsethecheesecloth,wringitout,andthenrefolditsoyouhaveadoublelayer.
2.Layonepieceacrossthebasketofasaladspinner,sothattheexcesslengthhangsevenlyovertwosides.Laythesecondpieceperpendiculartothat,toformacross(onepiecerunningnorth-southandonerunningeast-west).Tuckandpulltheclothsothattherearenogaps,inordertocontainallthefruityouwillplaceinthecheesecloth.
3.Cutyourfruitinto1-in/2.5-cmpieces,putintoafoodprocessorfittedwithasingleblade,andprocessuntilyouhaveapulpymixture.Youmighthavetostopandpushdownthechunksthathavecrawledupthesidesoftheworkbowlfromtimetotime.Onceyou’vegotapureeabouttheconsistencyofapplesauce,stopandscrapeeverythingintothecenterofthesaladspinner.Foldtheendsofthecheeseclothtoencasethefruit.
4.Operateyoursaladspinner—veryslowlyatfirst.Asyouspin,watchthejuicethatbeginstoaccumulate.Pauseanddecantintoanothercontainerasneeded.Spinuntilthepulprunsdry.Forfreshestflavor,usejuiceimmediately.
APPLEJUICE
InNorthAmerica,therewouldn’tbemuchrewardforsufferingthroughautumnandwinterifitweren’tforapplecider—spicedwithorangepeelandcinnamonandservedpipinghottosipwhilepickingpumpkinsinOctober,orice-coldinapplecidercocktailstodullthepainonNewYear’sDay.Cooltemperaturesandwinterflavorshaveanaturalaffinityfortheflavoroffresh-pressedapples.
Thetermapplecidercanbeconfusing,becauseinEuropeitreferstoafermented,slightlyalcoholiccider(aswasimbibedbyAmericansettlersheadingwestward),whilegenerallyintheStatesthesedays,itmeansfresh-pressedjuicecontainingnoalcohol.Andthenthere’sthenot-to-be-mentionedapplejuice,whichisthehighlyfiltered,cleargoldenjuicefromconcentratethatoftencomesinalittleboxwithastrawattached.Applejuiceisforchildren;applejuiceisnotforcocktails.
ThankstoaseriousoutbreakofE.coliinsomebottledfreshjuices,virtuallyallapplecidersoldintheUnitedStatesandCanadasinceabouttheyear2000hasbeenpasteurizedortreatedbysomeotherantimicrobialprocess.This,ofcourse,robsciderofmuchofitsfreshcomplexity,soitmakessensefortechnique-orientedbartenderstowanttofashiontheirown.Fortunately,it’sasimpletaskandtherewardisamoreinteresting,fresheringredientforyourcocktails.
EQUIPMENTFORMAKINGAPPLECIDER
Forthepriceofanicedinnerout,youcanpickupanewciderpress,thekindwiththewood-slatpressingtub.It’sgotsomedisksinside,andabigmetalscrewthatyouturntoslowlypressthejuiceoutoftheapples.IfyouwanttogothisPennsylvaniaDutchrouteandareplanningongoingthroughtubsandtubsofthestuffatatime,bemyguest.Fortherestofusforwhomaciderpresswillonlytakeupspaceandcollectdustmostoftheyear,IrecommendajuiceextractorortheMacGyvercentrifugemethod(seepage36).
PICKINGAPPLESFORJUICING
Wholeapplesarealwaysinseasonsomewhereintheworld,sotheyareonsupermarketshelvesyear-round.Buttopickareallygood,brightapple,payattentiontowheretheappleisfrom.InNorthAmerica,theseasonislateAugustthroughaboutNovember.Applesstorewell,butbeyond,say,February,youmaybebetteroffchoosingapplesfromtheSouthernHemisphere,whereautumnappleseasonisjustrevvingup.Ifyoudon’twanttouseapplesfromhalfwayaroundtheworld,findalocalproducerwhostoreshisapplesproperly,keepingthemquitecold,withproperhumidityandventilation.
Onceyourapplesareatyourbarorhouse,storethemintherefrigerator,awayfromanystrong-smellingfoods,astheyabsorbodorseasily.Storedinthecold,appleswillstayingreatconditionforupto10days.
Howmuchjuicewillyouget?Applestendtobe,atmost,aboutone-thirdjuice,whichisadecentyield.OvertheyearsI’velearnedthat1lb/455gofappleswillyieldjustover5oz/150mlofcider;knowingthatallowsmetoplanmypreplistaccordingly.
APPLEBLEND
Thejuiceofasinglevarietyofappleisgoingtoresultinasingleapplenoteinyourcocktails.Abettersolutionisacarefullyselectedblendofapples,whichwillbringaricher,morenuancedflavortothedrink.Mystrategywhenselectinganappleblendismuchliketheorchestrationofawell-balancedcocktail:Istartwithastrongappleflavor,balancesweetapplesagainstthetartones,andaddinsomeaccentflavorsforcomplexityanddepth.
Thisisacombinationthathasneverletmedown:2partsRedDeliciousapplesfortheirclassicsweetappleflavor
2partsGrannySmithapplesfortartness1partBraeburnapplesforarich,dark,spicycomponent
1partHoneycrispapplesforcrisp,complexbrightness
KEEPINGTHEJUICEFRESH
Onceyou’vemadeyourcider,useitimmediatelyorstoreitinthefridge,tightlysealedandlabeledwithadate.Freshapplecider,withitshighsugarcontent,willbegintofermentinlessthanaweek,evenunderrefrigeration,soItossitafter4days.
SHOULDYOUWORRYABOUTTHESEEDS?
Shouldyouremovetheappleseedsbeforejuicing?You’llhearpeoplesaythatappleseedsarepoisonous,astheycontaincyanide,butfortunately,that’snotentirelycorrect.Appleseeds(andtheseedsofstonefruits,suchasapricots,plums,cherries,andpeaches)containaglycoside(basicallyasugarmoleculeboundtoanothergroup)calledamygdalin,whichisbrokendownbyenzymesinthesmallintestinetoproducecyanidegas.That’sthebadnews.
Thegoodnewsisthatwe’retalkingaboutincrediblysmallamountshere,andthehumanbodyisequippedtodetoxifyitselfintheeventofnormalamygdalinconsumption.You’dhavetoeatagargantuanquantityofappleseedstodoanyrealharm,butifyou’retheparanoidtype,feelfreetotaketheextrastepanddiscardtheseedsbeforejuicing.
FLANNELSHIRT
IdevelopedthisrecipewithHighlandParkScotchfortheStarChefsRisingStarAwardsinPortland,Oregon.TheeventtookplaceinDecember,andIknewIwantedtodosomethingwithScotchandappleciderthatwouldbeservedcold.Soaftercomingupwiththeappleblenddescribedonpage39,IsetouttobuildacocktailwhoseotheringredientswouldplayasupportiveroleinexpressinghowbeautifullyScotchwhiskyandfreshappleciderpairtogether.
MAKES1DRINK
13/4oz/50mlScotch11/2oz/45mlfreshapplecider1/2oz/15mlAvernaamaro1/4oz/7.5mlfreshlemonjuice1tsp/5ml2:1Demerarasyrup(seepage78)1/2tsp/2.5mlSt.ElizabethAllspiceDram
2dashesAngosturabitters
Icecubesforshaking
Crackediceforserving
1orangepeelforgarnish
CHILLEDOLD-FASHIONEDGLASS
CombinetheScotch,applecider,Avernaamaro,lemonjuice,Demerarasyrup,St.ElizabethAllspiceDram,andbittersinacocktailshakerormixingglass.Shakewithicecubesandstrainovertheold-fashionedglassfilledwithcrackedice.Twistthepeeloverthesurfaceofthecocktailanddropinthedrinktoserve.
PINEAPPLEJUICEPineapplejuicepracticallydefinesthetikicocktailcategory,andfreshpineapplejuiceisamustifyouwanttomakeanhonorabletikidrink.
PICKINGPINEAPPLESFORJUICING
Thiscanbeslightlytricky,becausetheskinofapineappleisthick,rough,anddoesn’tgivealotofclues.Andpineapplesarepickedripe;theywon’tgetanyriperonyourcounter.But,fortunately,thesedaysmostpineapplesarereallyhigh-qualityandreliablysweet.Lookforonesthatfeelheavyfortheirsize,haveaslightgivewhenyousqueezethem,and—mostimportant—haveanoticeablysweetperfumewhenyousmellthem.DelMonteGoldisavarietythatyoucancounton.Anddon’trelyonthatoldtrickofpullingoutaleaf,whichsupposedlywillcomeouteasilyifthepineappleisripe.There’snotruthtothat.
A3-lb/1.4-kgpineappleshouldyieldabout16oz/480mlofjuice.Storeyourpineapplejuiceintherefrigeratoratalltimes—it’squiteperishable—andtossitafter3days.
KINGSTONCLUB
PalatestendtobeprettyadvancedhereinPortland.Maybeit’stheweather,maybeit’sourintenseloveforcoffeeandbig,bitterbeers.Butwhateverthereason,Ifoundmyselfinabitofaconundrumwhiletryingtoputsomethingtiki-inspiredonmydrinkmenu:Portlandersdemandmoredepthofflavorthanyou’llfindinmostrum-basedtropicaldrinks.
Herballiqueurstotherescue.I’vealwayslovedworkingwithherballiqueurssuchasDrambuie,andFernet-Brancamakesasolidchunkoftheirsalesfromthestaffatourrestaurant.Andbehold,theKingstonClubwasborn.
MAKES1DRINK
11/2oz/45mlDrambuie11/2oz/45mlfreshpineapplejuice3/4oz/22.5mlfreshlimejuice1tsp/5mlFernet-Branca
3dashesAngosturabitters
1oz/30mlchilledsodawaterIcecubes
1orangetwistforgarnish
CHILLEDCOLLINSGLASS
CombinetheDrambuie,pineapplejuice,limejuice,Fernet-Branca,andbittersinacocktailshakerormixingglass.Shakewithicecubesandfinishwiththesodawater.Strainthemixintothechilledcollinsglassfilledwithfreshice,andgarnishwiththeorangetwisttoserve.
TOMATOJUICEOh,toknowthejoyofaBloodyMarymadewith...well,no,notwithfreshtomatojuice.Thiscategoryofjuiceistheonethatgoesagainstthegeneralruleof“fresherisbetter.”There’ssomethingoddaboutatomato:atrulyripeoneissolusciousandintenselyflavorfulwhenyoueatitoutofhand,butonceyouprocessitintoapureeandthenextractthejuice,itbecomesvegetal,weak,andweirdlyfrothy.Tomatoesneedsomesortofheatapplicationtobreakdownthecellsinawaythatwillyieldthesweetjuice,ratherthantheotherflavors.
Thiscanbegoodnewsforthebartender,however,becausetherearecannedtomatoesthatwillproduceadeliciousjuicethatismuchbetterthanactualcannedtomatojuice.Andit’seasierthanprocuringandhandlingfreshripetomatoes.MuirGlenorganicbrandtomatoesareperfectforjuicing.Justpureetheminafoodprocessorandthenstrain.Usewithin2days.
Anotheroption,moretime-consuming,istoroastfreshtomatoes.Cutripetomatoesinhalf,arrangecut-sideuponarimmedbakingsheet,androastina375°F/190°Covenuntilthetomatoesstarttoshrivelabit,about1hour(sometimesmore,ifthetomatoesarereallyjuicy).Slidethetomatoesandtheirjuicesintoablenderandprocessuntilyouhaveasmoothpuree.Strainthroughafine-meshsievetoremoveseedsandbitsofskin.
THESANMARZANOHOAX
Youmayfindothercannedtomatobrandsthatareequallydelicious,butpleasebewaryofso-calledSanMarzanotomatoes.ThisisafabledplumtomatovarietyfromItalythatissaidtobeincredible;itevenhasaD.O.P.(denominazioned’origineprotetta)designation.AndtherealSanMarzanosareinfactgreat—growninidealsoilandclimateandharvestedandprocessedwhenfullyripe.Delightful.Butthereisabrandofcannedtomatothatcallsitself“SanMarzano”thatissoldinmanystoresintheUnitedStates,mainlybecausethelabelingisattractive(graphicallyboldwhite,red,andgreen).TheyareinfactfromCalifornia,andeverycanIhaveevertastedisfullofstringy,pale,tastelesstomatoes.Readthelabel!
POMEGRANATEJUICEThatnobleandancientfruit,thepomegranate,hasbeenthesubjectofmuchpopulardiscussioninrecentyearsduetoitsallegedantioxidantqualities.OriginatinginPersia,thepomegranatespreadacrossAsiaandtheMediterraneaninancienttimes.Itssweet,darkjuice,encapsulatedintinyseeds,figuresprominentlyinGreekmythology;Persephone’sunwittingconsumptionofthefruitandresultingbanishmenttotheunderworldforhalftheyearwastheGreeks’explanationfortheseasons.
PICKINGAPOMEGRANATE
Pomegranatesareinseasonforonlyafewmonthsayear(thepeakseasonisNovembertoJanuary),sogetthemwhileyoucan.Pickasmooth-skinnedpomegranate,withnocracksorsplits,thatfeelsheavyforitssize.You’llneedtoheftafewtofindtheheaviest.
HOWTOJUICEAPOMEGRANATE
Gettingthejuiceoutofapomegranate(say,forGrenadine,page98)hasforalongtimeconfoundedandfrustratedbartenders.Ican’ttellyouhowmanyprofessionalandhomebartendersI’vespokenwithaboutthehardworkandlowyieldoffreshpomegranatejuiceandthetediumofdealingwiththeseeminglyendlessnumberoftinyjuice-filledseeds,eachwaitingtospillameagerdroportwoofitsmessy,stainingjuice.
I’veseenallkindsofmethods,usuallystartingwithseparatingtheseedsfromthefleshinsomelaboriousprocess,followedbyamultitudeofvariationsonthesametheme:gettingthejuiceoutofthosetinyseeds.I’veseenstrainersdeployedoverbowls,whileladlesmashedtheseedstoseparatethejuicefromthehulls.I’veseenpomegranate-filledzip-topbagsandrollingpinsbroughtoutfromthecupboard(nojoke),andmypersonalfavorite:boilingtheseedsinashallowpanofwateruntiltheypoppedfromtheheatandgushedtheirguts,effectivelyturningthewaterapaleshadeofpink.
ItshockedmethatalmostnobodyIspokewithhadtriedtheobvious:cutthewholepomegranateinhalfalongtheequatorandplaceitinamechanicalcitruspress(seepage20),asyouwouldagrapefruit.Presstoyieldatremendousamountoffresh,darkjuicewithaminimumofmessandeffortrequiredbythebartender.
Howmuchjuicewillyouget?Withthemechanicalcitruspressmethod,a12-oz/340-gpomegranateshouldyield8oz/240ml.
KEEPINGTHEFRUITANDJUICEFRESH
Youcankeepwholepomegranatesatroomtemperature(chooseacoolspot)forafewdays,andforupto3monthsinaplasticbagintherefrigerator.Thejuicewilllastinthefridgeupto3daysandinthefreezerfor6months.
GINGERJUICE
Theflavoroffreshjuicefromgingerispotentandexciting,butnoteasytoproduce.Gingeristoughandextremelyfibrous,andthebestwaytogetmorethanafewdropsisbyusingajuiceextractor.Chancesarethatifyouwantgingerjuice,it’s
becauseyouwanttomakegingersyrup.Ihaveaneffectiveandeasymethodforjuicinggingerintendedforsyrup.Seetherecipeonpage103.Therestofthetimeyou’lllikelybeusingthejuicetomakeGingerBeer(page65).
CHOOSINGGINGERFORJUICE
Gingerdriesoutquickly,andmuchofwhatyou’llfindinanordinarygrocerystoreisprettyleathery,andthereforeisn’tgoingtoyieldalotofjuice.Yourbestsourceforyoung,fresh,juicygingerisanAsiangrocerystore.Lookforhands(that’swhattheclumpsarecalled)withfatsectionsandverythin,almostpinkishskin.Ifyoucanscrapeitoffwithafingernail,that’sagoodsign.Iftheskinisthickerandmorelikeabrownpaperbag,justbesureitisn’tshriveled.
HOWTOJUICEGINGERWITHAJUICEEXTRACTOR
Iftheskinisverythickandtough,youshouldpeeloffmostofit,justsoitswoodyflavordoesn’ttaintthejuice.Foryounger,thinner-skinnedginger,youcantossthewholethingintoajuiceextractor,becausethebuilt-instrainerwillremoveanyskinandfiber.
KEEPINGGINGERANDITSJUICEFRESH
There’salotofdebateabouthowtostoregingertokeepitfresh—inaplasticbag,inabowlofsand(yes,really),orsteepedinvodka.Ifindthatmoreconventionalmethods,likeaplasticbag,keepthegingerfreshforjustaslongandarealotlessmessythantheothers.
Forashortperiod,youcanjustleavetheunpeeledhandofgingeronthecounter,butformorethan1or2days,wrapitfirstinapapertowel,andtheninaplasticbagandstoreinthefridge.Ifyouleaveoutthepapertowel,thegingercangetmoldybecauseofthecondensedmoisture.Thejuiceitselfwillstayfreshforupto3days.
FRUITPUREES
Whenthetextureofafruitisverysoft,it’sdifficulttoseparatethejuicefromtherestofthecellmaterial.Insteadofclearjuicerunningfromfibrouspulp,youendupwithahomogenouspuree—whichisdeliciousandtotallyappropriateforcertaincocktails.Aperfectexampleoffruitsthatproduceanectarorpuree,ratherthanaclearliquid,aretheso-calledstonefruitsordrupes(peaches,nectarines,apricots,plums,etc).Thebestwaytousethisfamilyofsummerfruitsisbymakingthemintoperfectlysmoothpureesthatyoucanthenmixintococktails.
HOWTOMAKEAFRUITPUREE
Whenpureeingsmallamountsofsoftfruitsuchasraspberries,kiwi,veryripepear,orgrapes,thefirstoptionisalwaysthehand-poweredone,avoidingtheneedforelectricityorcleanup.Afoodmill,orevenastrainerandladle,isperfect.Seepage34forthehow-to.
Topureefruitsuchasmangoes,melons,orpeaches,ortopureesoftfruitinlargequantities,youneedsomepower,asinafoodprocessor.It’sfast,it’seasy,andtheresultsareperfectlyacceptable.Simplydumpabunchoffruitintoafoodprocessor,pureeuntilsmooth,andstraintheresultsthroughafine-meshstrainerintothecontainerofyourchoice.
HowtoMakeaStoneFruitPuree
Thismethodwillworkforanystonefruit,includingplums,nectarines,peaches(shownhere),andofcoursewhitepeaches,usedintheBellini(page49).
Startbyselectingtheripest,freshestwhitepeachesyoucanfind.Eachpeachshouldbringyouabout2oz/60mlofpuree.Peeleachpeachwithaparingknife(Idothisoverthesink)andremovethepitandstem.
Pureeinafoodmillifyouhaveone;otherwisepureetheminafoodprocessoruntilsmooth.You’llneedtorunthepureethroughasieveormeshstrainerifyou’reusingtheprocessor(seepage34).
Peachestendtolacktherightamountofsugarcontentunlesspickedattheheightoftheseason,sosweetenthepureetoyourparticulartastewithalittle2:1simplesyrup(seepage78).Bottleinasqueezebottleandrefrigerateuntilreadytouse.
STORINGFRUITPUREES
Theluscioustexture,freshflavor,andvibrantcolorofanewlymadefruitpureeisperishable,asyoucanimagine.Soassoonasyoumakeone,storeitinasealedcontainer.Ikeepsmallamountsoffruitpureeinlabeledanddatedplasticsqueezebottlesforeaseofmeasurementlater.
Fortunately,fruitpureesfreezeverywell,soyoucanmakelargebatcheswhenthefruitisatitspeakseason.Packthemintosmallfreezerbags,labelanddate,andfreezeforupto6months,althoughtheywillstarttolosesomequalityafteraround3months.
BELLINI
ThereisnoclassiccocktailthattakesadvantageoffruitpureequiteliketheBellini,aconcoctionofsparkingwineandwhitepeachpuree.ThedrinkreflectsthesamephilosophythatItalianshavetowardfood:useonlythebestingredientsattheirpeakseason,anddon’tmuckthemup—lettheingredientsspeakforthemselves.
Unlikesomanyclassiccocktails,thereisnodisputeoverwhoinventedtheBellini,thoughthedateisstillfuzzy.GiuseppeCipriani,founderandownerofthefabledHarry’sBarinVenice,adoredthedelicatelyfragrantwhitepeachesthatwereplentifulduringtheItaliansummer.He“squeezed”one(musthavebeenmightyripe)andblendedthepureewithsomeprosecco.Theflavorwaslikesummerinaglass,andthedrinkhadagorgeouspalepinkblushtoit,thankstothelittletingeofredfleshthat’sclosesttothepitofawhitepeach.ThedrinkneverleftHarry’smenu,andinfacthesubsequentlynamedaNewYorkrestaurantBellini.
TheriskyourunwiththeBelliniisthedrinkbecomingtoothick,sothatitfeelsasifyou’reslurpingdownpeachpureetouchedwithahintofwine.Aftertoyingaroundwiththeproportionsatmybarforyears,we’vefinallysettledontheratioof1partpureeto3partsprosecco.It’stheperfectbalance.Inan8-oz/240-mlChampagneflute,thisworksoutperfectlyto11/2oz/45mlofpureefinishedwith41/2oz/135mlofprosecco,leavinga2-oz/60-mlheadspaceatthetopoftheglass.
IgottaadmitthatI’mnottheworld’sbiggestfanofprosecco,asittendstobealittlesweeter,simpler,andmoreone-dimensionalthantheFrenchorevenSpanishsparklingwinesItypicallyseekout.Butforthisdrink,thereisabsolutelynothingthatwillworklikeprosecco.Trustmeonthisone,asalotofdry,complexdepthisnotwhatyou’relookingforinthiscocktail.
MAKES1DRINK
11/2oz/45mlwhitepeachpuree41/2oz/135mlchilledproseccoCHILLEDCHAMPAGNEFLUTE
PourthepeachpureeintheChampagneflute.Topupslowlywiththechilledprosecco.Iliketogivethisoneastirwithachopstickratherthanametalbarspoon,astheChampagneflutesIhaveathomeandinmybararetoodelicatetohandlewithsteelimplements.
CHAPTERNO3
SODAS&MIXERS
LENGTHENINGCOCKTAILSWITHCARBONATIONANDVOLUME
Walkingupanddowntheaislesofyourlocalgrocerymegastore,andprettymuchanyrun-of-the-millgrocerystoreinthecountry,you’lleventuallycomeacrossanaislelabeled“Mixers.”Whilealotofthenewer,hipperstoreswithincandescentlightingandthewordorganicplasteredallovertheplacewillchooseamoreelegantlabel,suchas“Sodas”or“Beverages,”fortheirmixersaisle,thebigboxstoresstillhangontothatword:mixers.
Youtakealapthroughthataisleandthinktoyourself,“WhatinthehellamIsupposedtomixwiththis?”Dietcherryvanillacola.Grapeflavoredsoda.Packetsofbrightlycoloredpowderthatyou’resupposedtopourintoyourwaterbottleinordertoturnwaterintoahydratingbeverage.Andsportsdrinks,whichnoonehaseverseenbeingconsumedbypeoplewhoparticipateinsports.
Andthenyougettothatplacewe’veallseenamilliontimes:It’saskimpysectionofshelvingsomewhereneartheendoftheaisle,andit’swherethereal“mixers”live.ThereareafewbottlesofAngosturabittershere,andsomebrightredmaraschinocherries.There’sdefinitelyajarortwoofolives,anddependingonhowfancythesurroundingneighborhoodis,theremightbesomespecialtyolivesstuffedwithroastedgarlicorsomething.Neonredgrenadine,brighterneongreenlimecordial.Andthentherearethesodas.
Theyusedtoalwaysstocksomethinggenericallylabeledas“collinsmix”here,butIthinkthatwasbeforeeveryonefiguredoutitwasthesamethingasSquirt,orrightaboutthetimethatpeoplestoppeddrinkingvodkacollinsesinfavorofvodkasodas,heraldingthemodernquestforfewercaloriesandevenlessflavor.
There’stonicwaterhere,aswellasdiettonicwater,whichisnotonlymadewiththesameartificialquinineasregulartonicwater,butsweetenedwithartificialsweetenertoboot.Sourmixwasprettymuchbornandraisedinthislittlesectionof
grocerystoreshelving,andsometimesit’sstillreferredtobythatname,butmostoftenthesedaysitgoesby“margaritamix.”It’susuallysoldrightnexttoasmallplasticcontainerofkoshersaltfestoonedwithaplasticsombrero,labeled“margaritasalt.”
TheunfortunatethingisthateventhoughI’manexperiencedbartenderwiththeknowledgeandskillstomakeperfectlyexecutedclassiccocktailsfromfreshingredients,I’mstillconditionedtothinkofthissadlittlesectionofthegrocerystoreanytimeIhearanyonesaythewordmixers.AndIthinkmostotherpeopledo,too—whichisterriblenewsforcocktails—becauseunlikeyouandme,somepeopleactuallymakeapointofshoppingherewhenitcomestimetomixtheiralcoholwithotheringredients.Ihopethischapterwillchangethatbehavior.
AHISTORYOFCARBONATIONTheculturalshifttowardintellectualismduringtheAgeofEnlightenmentineighteenth-centuryEuropeencompassedanumberofdisciplines,fromphilosophytoethics,physicstochemistry.Enlightenment-erachemistswereobsessedwith,andmademajoradvancementsin,thesearchforthefundamentalbuildingblocksoftheuniverse,oraswenowknowthem,theelements.
Oneofthemanyscientificdisciplinesthataroseatthistimewasthestudyofdifferentstatesofmatter.Onesuchstatewas(and,um,stillis)gas.Atthetime,scientistsbelievedthattherewerethreeelementaltypesofgases,orastheywereknownatthetime,“airs.”Thefirstwascalled“commonair,”whichwenowthinkofasEarth’satmosphere,ortheairwebreathe—amixtureofnitrogen,oxygen,argon,andothertracegases.Thesecondwasnamed“inflammableair”byHenryCavendish;wenowknowitastheelementhydrogen.Andthethirdbecameknownas“fixedair”andwasobservedblanketingfermentationtanksatbreweriesbyaUnitarianministernamedJosephPriestley.
Priestley,unsuccessfulatsermonizingthanksinparttoadebilitatingstutter,wasquitetheaspiringscientist.In1767hepublishedTheHistoryandPresentStateofElectricity,partlyencouragedbyAmericanstatesmanBenjaminFranklin.Thatsameyear,PriestleymovedtoLeeds,inEngland,intoahousenextdoortoabrewery,wherehecontinuedhisscientificedification,conductingexperimentsinandaroundthosefermentationtanks.
Hediscoveredalayerof“air”abovethefermentationtanksthatheldsomeinterestingproperties.Henoticedthatalitcandle,whenmovedintothislayerofair,wouldquicklyandinexplicablyextinguish.Hisnextexperimentinvolvedmice,oftenplentifulinandaroundthesacksofgrainfoundinbreweries.Hediscoveredthathispoor,unwillingsubjectsdiedwhenexposedtothis“air”forseveralminutes.Butitwashisgreatestexperimentthatchangedthewaywedrinkforever.Priestleynotedthatwhenwaterwaspouredbackandforthbetweentwoglassesheldinthe“air,”itbecamefulloftinybubbles.JosephPriestleyhaddiscoveredcarbondioxide.
In1772,PriestleypublishedabooktitledImpregnatingWaterwithFixedAir.Inthebookhedescribedanintricateprocessinwhich“oilofvitriol”—or,asit’scallednow,sulfuricacid—wasdrippedontolimestonetoproducecarbondioxidegas,whichwasthentobedissolvedinwater.Itwastheworld’sfirstprocesstocarbonatewaterartificially.Butwhygotoallthattroubleforwhatwenowthinkofasarefreshing,yetstillunnecessary,inthegrandschemeofthings,beverage?Quitesimply,Priestleywasconvincedthatthecarbonatedwaterwasmedicine,apossiblecureforscurvy,acommonailmentamongsailorswhooftenspentmonthsatatimeatsea.WenowknowthatscurvyistheresultofavitaminCdeficiency,aconsequenceofhavingnoaccesstofreshfruitsandvegetablesonlongvoyages.Priestleytried,unsuccessfully,tosellthenewprocessforcarbonatingwatertotheRoyalNavy.Instead,heendedupteachingthecrewofJamesCook’ssecondSouthSeasvoyagetheprocessafterbeingturneddownforthepositionofship’sastronomer.Theylikelystillsufferedfromscurvy,butatleasttheyhadsomedelicioussparklingwaterontheirvoyage.
CARBONATEDWATERASHEALTHTONIC
Ataroundthesametime,theGermantownofNiederseltershadsomethingveryspecialonitshands.Thecitypossessedauniquemineralwaterspring,whichwas,oddlyenough,lightlycarbonated.Mypersonaltheoryisthattherewas,deepunderground,amixtureofsulfuricacidandlimestonemixingwiththewatertoinfuseitwithcarbondioxidegas,muchlikeinJosephPriestley’sartificialcarbonationprocess.
Asearlyas1728,thetown’swaterwassoldacrossEuropeasasortoftonicinthenewlypopularhealthspas.Thespringwaterwasbottledinearthenwarejugsandsealedwithtartokeepthecarbonationintact.Spashadbeenenjoyingarecent
resurgenceinEurope,asasortofdestinationcureforallmannerofailments,fromarthritistopneumonia.Thetown’s“Selterswater”soonbecamealltherageinsuchresorts,eventuallygivingrisetothegenerictermseltzerwater.
MECHANICALCARBONATION
JohannJacobSchweppe,aGermanwatchmakerlivinginSwitzerland,learnedofPriestley’smethodofdrippingsulfuricacidontolimestonetoproducecarbondioxidegasand,usinghismachinist’sskills,becamethefirsttodevelopamanufacturingprocesstoartificiallycarbonatemineralwater.TheSchweppesCompanywasfoundedinGenevain1783andisstilloperatingtoday,aspartofalargercompany.
Europe’sthirstforcarbonatedwaterremainedunquenched,andin1813amannamedCharlesPlinthcreatedthefirstportablesodasiphon,whichcouldbemountedontohorse-drawncarts,spreadingthepopularityofthedrinkaroundLondon.Asearlyas1814,awaiterworkingatLimmer’sHotelonConduitStreet,inLondon,hadaverypopularginpunchonhishands.Therecipecalledforgin,lemonjuice,andsugar,andwaslengthenedwithsodawater,quitepossiblyprovidedbyoneofPlinth’sportablesodacarts.
Thewaiter’snamewasJohnCollins,andthepunchwasnamedafterhim.Supposedly,thedrinkwasoriginallymadewithHollandorJenevergin,whichisamaltier,richer,andmoreoilyversionofthedryginsweconsumetoday.AsillegalhomedistillingbecamemorecommonandgaverisetotheOldTomstyleofsweetenedEnglishgin,thedrinktookonaslightnamechange,whichwouldbecomeapermanentone:TomCollins.
HOWCARBONATIONWORKS
Carbonationisthecommontermforthedissolutionofcarbondioxide(CO2)intowater.Carbonationbeingachemicalreaction,therearesomebasicrulestoknow,andknowingthoseruleswillhelpyoumakeyourdrinksbetter.
Thefirstruleisthatcarbondioxideismuchmoresolubleincoldwaterthaninwarmwater.Sowhatdoesthismeanforus?Well,itmeansthatwe’llwanttokeepanycarbonatedbeveragesoringredients,betheybeer,sparklingwater,Champagne,orCoca-Cola,ascoldaspossibletoensurethatasmuchofthatCO2staysinsolutiononcethebottle’sbeenopened.
Carbonationalsoreliesonpressuretomaintainsolution,andsinceCO2wantstobeatequilibriumwithitssystem,alow-pressuresystemsuchasEarth’satmospherewillresultinalossofcarbonation.Inlayman’sterms,thismeansthatoncethatbottlehasbeenopenedandexposedtotheatmospherehereonEarth,thecarbondioxidewantstoescape.Sokeepthosebottlescloseduntilthey’rereadytobeused.
It’simportanttorememberthatacarbonateddrinkservedovericecontainsbillionsandbillionsofplacesforbubblestoform,whicharecallednucleationsites.Asaresult,thedrinkwillloseitscarbonationmorequicklythanoneservedinabottleoraglasswithoutice,whichhasfewernucleationsites.
It’salsoimportanttonotethatwhencarbondioxide(CO2)isdissolvedinwater(H2O),thereisareactionthattakesplacethatproducesasmallamountofcarbonicacid(H2CO3).Thisisapplicabletococktails,becauseitmeansthatcarbonateddrinksareslightlymoreacidic,andthereforetastelesssweetthannoncarbonateddrinks.Adjustyourrecipesasneeded.
Carbonationreachesequilibriumwithitssystem
TOMCOLLINS
Thefirstrecipeforasingle-servingTomCollinsappearedinthe1876editionofJerryThomas’sTheBar-Tender’sGuide.Bythistime,sparklingcocktailssuchascollinsesandfizzeswereamainstayofAmericanbarculture.
Ican’tthinkofmanymorerefreshingdrinksthanaperfectlycarbonatedTomCollins.It’sthesortofthingI’llwhipupatapartywhentheonlythingsonhandarealittlegin,somefreshlemons,sugar,andsodawater.ATomCollinsisjustoneofthosedrinksthatalwaysseemstowowpeoplewhenmadecorrectly.
Ifindthataddingsodatotheglassoncethedrinkhasbeenshakenandstrainedovericemerelyresultsinalayerofcocktailandalayerofsoda.IalwaysaddthesodadirectlytotheshakeronceI’mdoneshakingthedrink,andIneverdouble-strain;thefinestrainerprovidestoomanynucleationsites,whichhelpdissipatethatcarbondioxidetooquickly.
MAKES1DRINK
2oz/60mlgin,preferablyintheOldTomstyle,suchasHayman’s3/4oz/22.5mlfreshlemonjuice(seepage22)1/2oz/15ml2:1simplesyrup(seepage78)
Icecubes
2oz/60mlchilledsodawater
1lemonpeelforgarnish
CHILLEDCOLLINSGLASS
Combinethegin,lemonjuice,andsimplesyrupinacocktailshakerormixingglass.Shakewithicecubesandaddthesodawatertothecontentsoftheshaker.Strainintothechilledcollinsglassfilledwithfreshice.Twistthepeeloverthesurfaceofthecocktailanddropinthedrinktoserve.
SODAWATERTodaythemodernbartenderhasanumberofoptionsforcarbonatedwaterincocktails.Thesimplest,andcertainlyleastsustainable,methodistopurchasebottledsodawater,alsoknownassparklingwater.Thereareanumberofcompanieswillingtoseparateyoufromyourmoneyinthisdepartment,eachtoutingalong-standingEuropeantraditionofmineral-richwatertexturedwithallmannerofcarbonationandbubblesize.Takeyourpickandchooseyourfavoriteifheadingdownthisroad,butalwaysremembertokeepyourbottleswellchilledinthefridgeinordertomaximizethelifeofthecarbonation.
MAKINGYOUROWNSODA
Carbonatingyourownwatermeanslesswastedplasticandlesstransportationenergy.Italsomeansyoucanmakeexactlyasmuchsodayouwant,whenyouwantit—nottomentiontheadditionalcontrolitgivesyouoveryourcosts.
HowtoUseaSodaSiphon
Agood,thoughsomewhatinvolved,techniqueistouseasodasiphon,suchasthetypemadebyLissoriSi.Beginbyfillingthesiphonaccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructionswithcoldfilteredtapwater.Thisfirststepisimportanttoremoveanylingeringimpuritiesorflavorsinthemunicipalwatersystem.AthomeIleantowardtheBritasystem,althoughtherearecertainlymanyotheroptionsoutthereforbothcommercialandhomeuse.
Next,attachtheheadtothecanisterandfitaCO2cartridgeintotheunit.You’llhearthehissofgasasitfillstheunit;onceyoucan’thearitanylonger,makesurethegasiscompletelydissolvedinthewaterbyshakingthecanisterhardfor10seconds.Don’tworry,theunitisn’tgoingtoexplodeonyou.
Atthispoint,you’rereadytorock.Simplydepresstheleveronthesideoftheheadgentlytodispensecarbonatedwater,muchlikeacircusclown.Justmakesureyoudon’thitanyoneintheface.Thesesodasiphonsaregreatforquicklycarbonating
waterandkeepingitfresh,butIdofindthatdischargingrequiresagentletouchifyou’retryingtofillajiggertomeasure.
OtherWaystoCarbonate
Pouringfromabottleisamoregentlewaytodispensecarbonatedwater,and,fortunately,thesedaystherearecompaniesthatmakesuchcontraptionsforbottlingwaterathome.Sodastreamisonesuchcompany,andalthoughtheirunitissomewhatbulky(takingupasmuchcounterspaceasasmallcoffeemachine),itfillssealableglasscarafeswiththewater,whichmakesfornicelybottledwaterinabeautifulpackage.
TheFizzGizmakesaprettycoolportableunitthatIliketothrowintomybartoolbag.Thecarbonatorishandheldandfitsintoacustom-designedbottlecap,whichshouldscrewontosomestandardplasticwaterorsodabottles,thoughfindingonewhosethreadsexactlymatchthoseoftheFizzGizcanbeafrustratinggameoftrialanderror.
TONICWATER
Quinine,thebittercompoundthatformsthebasefortonicwater,hasamythicalandturbulentpast.ThebarkofthequinquinatreewasknowntoPeruvianIncastohaveaveryspecialproperty:whengroundandmixedwithhotorcoldwaterandconsumedasasortoftea,itstoppedthebodyfromshiveringinthecold.Wenowknowthatquinineisamildmusclerelaxant.
IwouldarguethatJesuitmissionaries,exploringtheNewWorldandgrabbingeverythingtheycouldgettheirhandson,tooknoticeofthispeculiarphenomenon.Sinceshiveringwasoneofthesymptomsofmalaria,adiseasethathadbeenravagingEuropeforcenturies,theyprobablyfiguredthatwhateverstoppedtheshiveringwouldstopthedisease.Theirguessprovedtobesound,eveniftheirreasoningwasn’t:quininekillsthemicroorganisminthebloodthatcausesmalaria.Theshiversaremerelyasymptom.
Regardless,thebarkquicklybecameawell-knownmalariapreventativeinEurope,worthitsweightingoldasPeruviansuppliesquicklydwindled.By1862,theDutchhadsmuggledseedsoutofPeruandsetupcinchona(asitbecameknown)plantationsinJava,Indonesia.Bythe1930s,Javagrewtobetheworld’sprimarysourceofquininetothetuneofa95percentmarketshare.
QuininewasconsumedbythoseworkingfortheBritishEastIndiaCompanyinIndia.Thetonicwasmademorepalatablebytheaddednoveltyofcarbonatedwater.SincethemostcommonliquorimbibedbytheBritishatthetimewasgin,itbecameanaturaladditiontothemedicinaltonic.Intheearly1800s,theginandtonicwasborn.
MAKINGTONICWATER
Ibeganmyfirstexperimentswithhouse-madetonicwaterin2007.Iwaslookingforatonicwithmoreassertiveflavorsandnaturalingredientsthanthosefoundincommercialtonicwater.Aglanceatthestandard-issuetonicavailableatmostbarsandrestaurantsrevealsthelackofflavorevenbeforeyouopenthebottle.Justlookattheingredients:water,highfructosecornsyrup,citricacid,sodiumbenzoate,andquinine.Ithoughtwecoulddobetter.
Conversely,myissuewithmosthomemadetonicwaterwasthatithadtooassertiveaflavorprofileforthegeneralpublic.Evenmyownfirstrecipe,whichwaslaudedbybartendersandhomemixologistsallovertheInternetandinnewspapers,Ipersonallyfoundtobemuddy,dirty,earthy,and,quitefrankly,abittoughtodrink.
Isetout,yetagain,insearchofatonicrecipethatIcouldbeproudof,andthatIwouldenjoydrinking.ItfinallydawnedonmethatifImadeatinctureofquinine,andthenmadeaquininesyrup,Icouldhavemorecontrolovertheflavorofthewholedrink.ThisistheformulaIlandedon:
Mix1partQuinineSyrup(facingpage)to3partssodawater.Ormix1partQuinineSyrupto3partsstillwaterandcarbonateusingacarbonator.
QUININESYRUP
Youcanbuycinchona,wholegentianroot,andsoft-stickcinnamoninbulkfromretailersofherbalmedicineandotherspecialtyherbshops.Andpleaseuseascaleformeasurement;itmakesadifference.I’mkeepingthequantitiesinmetricweightsbecauseit’simportanttobeprecise.AnyelectronicscalewillhaveasettingformetricsaswellasU.S.weights.
MAKES28OZ/830ML,WITHENOUGHTINCTURELEFTOVERFOR2MOREBATCHES
QuinineTincture
6gpowderedcinchonabark(redwillbemoreassertive,yellowismilderandlessbitter)150mlvodka
Aromatics
20gcitricacid10gwholegentianroot2gCeylonsoft-stickcinnamon,brokenbyhandintosmallpieces30glemonpeel,peeledwithavegetablepeeler30ggrapefruitpeel,peeledwithavegetablepeeler400gsugar
500mlwater
Tomakethetincture:Dissolvethepowderedcinchonabarkinthevodka.Mixwell,andthenstrainthroughapapercoffeefilterfittedintoastrainer(orafiltercone,ifyouhaveone)andsuspendedoveralargeenoughcontainertoaccommodatethefinalvolumeofvodka.Thisprocesscouldtakeupto1hour,sodon’tworryifitseemslikenothingishappening.(Thetincturelastsforever.)Tomakethearomatics:Combinealltheingredientsforthearomaticsina
mediumsaucepan.Heatovermediumheatjustuntilboiling,reducetheheattolow,andsimmer,covered,for20minutes.Strainoutthesolidsandlettheliquidcool.
Stir11/2oz/45mlofthequininetinctureintothecooledaromatics,andthenbottle.Sealtightlyandstoreintherefrigeratorforupto2weeks.
GINANDTONIC
Thereareginandtonics,andthenthereareGinandTonics.Thisisoneyouwon’tbeembarrassedtoserveyourguests.Imakepitcherafterpitchereverysummerforfriendstosipinthebackyard.
MAKES1DRINK
2oz/60mlLondondryorPlymouthgin1/2oz/15mlQuinineSyrup(page59)
11/2oz/45mlchilledsodawaterIcecubes
1limewedgeforgarnish
OLD-FASHIONEDGLASS
Combinethegin,quininesyrup,andsodawaterintheold-fashionedglassandfillwithicecubes.Garnishwiththelimewedgetoserve.
GINGERBEER
Backinthatsupermarketmixerssection,thereareprobablyacoupleofbrandsofgingerale,whichismoreoftenthannotanartificiallyflavoredbeverage,sweetenedwithhighfructosecornsyrupandbestservedtochildrenwithupsettummies.IevenkeepacanortwoofthestuffinthefridgeforwhenI’mnotfeelingwell.
Butgingerbeerisacompletelydifferentanimal.TheearlypredecessortoCanadian-borngingerale,gingerbeerfirstbeganlifeinEnglandasafermented,slightlyalcoholicbeveragemadeoffreshginger,lemon,sugar,water,andayeastandbacteriacompoundcommonlyknownas“gingerbeerplant.”GingerbeerplantisaliveorganismcomposedofSaccharomycesflorentinusyeastandLactobacillushilgardiibacteria,andisinthesamefamilyofbacteriathatareusedtomakekombuchatea,vinegar,andsourdoughbread.
Itwouldprobablybevery“authenticnineteenth-centuryEngland”tofindorculturegingerbeerplantandusethatforfermentation,butI’vegrowntoreallyliketheresultsI’vegottenfromChampagneyeast.It’seasyandinexpensive.IreachfortheRedStarPremierCuvéebrandwhenI’matthehomebrewshop.
OvertheyearsIhavedevelopedaseriesofgingerbeerrecipesforuseathomeandinmybars,oneofwhichIpublishedonmywebsitein2008,andgotagreatresponse.Buttheversionwe’veusedforthepastseveralyearsistheoneI’llpublishhere,alighter,slightlydrierstyleoftheoneonmywebsite.
I’vealwaysadvocatedtheuseof16-oz/480-mlflip-topbottles,availableatanyhomebrewingsupplystore.Butthesedayswebottlein12-oz/360-mlamberbeerbottles,andcapthemwithabottlecapper,alsoavailableathomebrewshops.Ifindthattherubbergasketthatcomeswiththeflip-topbottlestendstowearout,resultinginaflatbottlehereorthere,sothebottlecaprouteshouldbetheprofessional’schoice.
Sincemostbartendersandenthusiastsaren’tgoingtobemakingasinglebottleatatime,I’mprovidingarecipethatmakes1gl/3.8Lofgingerbeer.Doingalittlemathrevealsthatthiswillyieldeight16-oz/480-mlbottles,oreleven12-oz/360-mlbottles.Makesureyou’vegotenoughofwhicheverbottlesizeyouchooseonhandbeforestartingthisproject.
MAKES1GL/3.8L
91/4cups/2.2Lwarmwater
10oz/300mlgingerjuice,juicedfromapproximately1lb/455gfreshginger(seepage45)16oz/480mlfreshlemonjuice,finelystrained(seepage22)
28oz/840ml1:1simplesyrup(seepage78)
1packetChampagneyeast
EIGHT16-OZ/480-MLBOTTLESORELEVEN12-OZ/360-MLBOTTLES
Ifyoudon’treallywanttomeasureoutthe91/4cups/2.2Lofwarmwateryouwillneed,andIknowIdon’t,youcansimplycombinethegingerjuice,lemonjuice,andsimplesyrupina1-gl/3.8-Lcontainerandtopthewholeshebangoffwithenoughwarmwatertobringthevolumeto1gl/3.8L.Oryoucancombinethethegingerjuice,lemonjuice,andsimplesyrupinalargecontainerandaddexactly91/4cups/2.2Lofwater.It’syourchoice.
Next,mixthatupvery,verywell.Wedefinitelydon’twantthismixturetobeanythingbutperfectlyhomogenous.Stiritforacoupleofminutes,orifyou’reusinga1-gl/3.8-Lcontainerwithalid(Ifindthatusedwaterjugswithscrew-onlidsworkwellforthisproject),giveitashakeforaminuteortwo.
Thenexttrickistheyeast.Youdon’tneedmuchtogetthejobdone,soItakeasmallparingknife,diptheknifepointintotheyeastpacketuntilI’vegotabout1/2in/12mmofyeastcoveringthetipofthatblade(asmallparingknifeisaperfecttoolforthis),andthensliptheyeastintotheneckofeachclean,drybottle.
Now,usingafunnel,filleachbottlewithyourgingerbeermixtureandcaporseal.Iliketomakesureeverything’swellmixed,soonceI’vegotthatbottlesealed,Igiveitagood,hardshakeforatleast10
seconds.Findawarm,darkspace(underthekitchensinkworkswell)andletthebottlessitforexactly48hours.
Duringthistimeyourgingerbeerisgoingtoundergoalittletransformation.Theyeastwillsoonspringtolifeandbegindevouringthosesugarmolecules,convertingthemintothethreeby-productsofthefermentationprocess:alittlebitofheat,atraceamountofalcohol,andawholelotofcarbondioxidegas.After48hoursyoushouldhaveenoughgasinthebottlestowarrantstoppingthefermentationprocess,soyourbottlesdon’texplode.
Poppingyourgingerbeerintoacoldfridgewillstopthisprocess.Oncecold,yourgingerbeerisreadytoenjoy.Besuretokeepyourgingerbeerrefrigeratedatalltimes;itwilllastupto1week.
ImightsuggestusingyourChineseFive-SpicedDarkRum(page128)andmixingupaspicedDarkandStormy(page68).
DARKANDSTORMY
ADarkandStormyisoneofmyfavoritedrinksinspring,whentheweatherhereinthePacificNorthwestiswarm,butthecloudsareheavyandfullofrain.Sittingoutonacoveredporchwatchingtheraincloudsrollinisalwaysbetterwithoneofthesesunnyrefreshersinhand.
Butsometimes,duringourlong,dark,coldwinters,weneedalittlerefreshment,too.Sowecameupwiththisversion,“winterized”slightlywiththeChristmas-yscentofChinesefive-spicepowder.
MAKES1DRINK
Crackedice
2oz/60mlChineseFive-SpicedDarkRum(page128)4oz/120mlGingerBeer(page65)
1limewedgeforgarnish
CHILLEDCOLLINSGLASS
Filltheglasswithcrackediceandaddthespicedrumandgingerbeer.Stirwithachopstickorbarspoon,andgarnishwiththelimetoserve.
SPARKLINGWINEButwhataboutthatothersparklingbeveragesowonderfulincocktails:sparklingwine?There’sawholecategoryofcocktailsbuiltaroundsparklingwines,whetheractualChampagne,prosecco,cava,oroneofthemanycrémantsfromFrance,oralesstraditionalsparklingwine,suchasthosefromCalifornia.
Whenyouusesparklingwineasamixer,asopposedtoservingitasastand-alonebeverage,you’remorelikelytohavesomeleftoverinthebottle.Dumpingoutaplastic2-literbottleofgenericsodawaterhurtsahellofalotlessthanabottleofFrenchsparklingwine,butasitturnsout,thereareacoupleofoptionstohelpkeepthecarbondioxideintheliquid,whereitbelongs.
Yourfirstoptionisthecheapestandthesimplest.FornexttonothingyoucanpickupagoodChampagnestopper.Lookforthestainless-steeltypewithtwowings,whichfolddownandclampontotheneckofthebottle.Iusuallypickupafewdifferenttypestoaccommodatebottlevariations,andgowiththeonethatfeelslikeitlocksdownthetightesttopreventanygasfromescaping.Usingthismethodshouldkeepyourbubbly,uh,bubblyforadayorso.
Abetter,albeitmoreexpensive,optionismadebyPerlageSystem.Theunitisbasicallyathree-pieceLexanshellthatscrewstogetheratthebaseandcompletelyencapsulatestheopenbottleofsparklingwine.Avalveallowscarbondioxidetobepumpedintothebottle,whichkeepsthewineatthesamepressurizedstateasbeforeitwasopened.Thecompanyclaimsthatfreshnessandcarbonationwilllastweeksorevenmonths.
FRENCH75
MAKES1DRINK
The1919editionofHarryMacElhone’sHarry’sABCofMixingCocktailscontainsthefirstprintedrecipeforadrinksurprisinglysimilartoaTomCollins,butcallingforsparklingwineinplaceofthesparklingwater.MadewithLondondrygin,whichwasprevalentatthetime,thedrinkisnamedtheFrench75andcreditedtoabartenderbythenameofMalachyMcGarry,ofBuck’sClubinLondon.
Forme,nothingepitomizestheuseofsparklingwineinaclassiccocktailliketheFrench75.Butforthelongesttime,Ididn’treallyseethedrink’sappeal;it’salittlegin,alittlelemon,andalittlesugarthrownintoaChampagneflute,withsomesparkingwineontopandmaybeasadlittlelemonpeelfloatingaround.ButthenIrealizedsomethingwhileperusingoldbarbooks:theFrench75isbasicallyadressed-upTomCollins!AndonceItookthecollinsapproachandserveditontherocksastheoriginalrecipestates,Ibegantoseewhatatrulyrefreshingandinspiredcocktailthisis.
1oz/30mlLondondrygin1oz/30mlfreshlemonjuice(seepage22)1/2oz/15ml2:1simplesyrup(seepage78)
Crackedice2oz/60mlChampagneorsparklingwine
1lemonpeelforgarnish
CHILLEDCOLLINSGLASS
Combinethegin,lemonjuice,andsimplesyrupinacocktailshakerormixingglass.Fillwithcrackediceandshake.AddtheChampagnetotheshaker.Strainintothecollinsglass.Twistthepeeloverthe
surfaceofthecocktailanddropinthedrinktoserve.
CHAPTERNO4
SIMPLESYRUPS
THEPARADOXOFSIMPLICITY
Asimplesyrupistheoriginal,themostbasic,andgenerallyoneofthemostcommonwaystoaddsweetnesstoacocktail.Andonthesurface,simplesyruplivesuptoitsname:measurewater,measuresugar,mixtogether.Simple,right?
Notexactly.Ican’tevenbegintotellyouhowmanybartendersI’vemetwhodon’tmakesimplesyrupcorrectly.Sometimesit’sbecausethey’renotpayingattentiontodetail,butusuallyit’sbecausetheydon’tunderstandthebasicprinciplesbehindit,theonesyou’reabouttolearnhere.Moreoftenthannot,it’ssomerockstarmixologistwhocreatesworksofartbehindhisownbarbuthasahellofatimefiguringoutwhyhisdrinkstastesodifferentwhensomeoneelseismakingthem.Notusingtherighttechniqueathome,whenyou’remakingadrinkforyourselfandadjustingtotaste,probablywillnothaveanyfar-reachingconsequences,butinaprofessionalbar,whereconsistencyisofparamountimportance,itmostcertainlywill.
Sowhygotoallthetroubleofmakingasyrupwhenyoushouldjustbeabletotossinaspoonfulofsugar?Asanyonewho’severtriedstirringapacketofsugarintoatallglassoficedteaonawarmsummerdayknows,thebestonecanhopeforisaslightlysweeterbeverageandasadlittlelayerofundissolvedcrystalsatthebottomoftheglass.Sugardoesn’tdissolvewellincoldliquid,anditdefinitelydoesn’tdissolveinalcohol,sowhenwe’resweeteningcocktails,weusesimplesyrupinstead.Inthisform,thesugarisalreadydissolved,sothesweetenerwillbeincorporatedquicklyandcompletelyintothedrinkandproduceasmooth,uniformcocktail.
SELECTINGTHERIGHTSUGAR
Youcanchoosefromarangeofsugarswhenmakingyoursimplesyrup.Wekeepavarietyofsyrupsmadefrommostofthesesugarsonhandatmybar,asdomanycocktailbarsaroundtheworld.Theirprimarypurposeistosweeten,ofcourse,butwefindthateachonebringssomesubtleflavornuancesofthesourcesweetenertothecocktail.
WHITESUGAR
Themostcommonbarsimplesyrupismadefromrefined,granulatedsucrose;it’sthewhitestuffyoufindinbagsandboxes,andpacketsandshakers,allovertheworld.Whitesugarismadefromeithersugarbeetsorsugarcaneandischeap,sweet,andalmostflavorless—theeconomycarofsweeteners.Itdoesn’tinterferewithotheringredientsinacocktailbybringinganyofitsownflavorstotheparty,soIuseitwhenmakingsimpletwo-orthree-ingredientcocktailsandwanttohighlightthosebasicflavorswithoutaddinganotherdimensiontothedrink.
Therearetwotypesofwhitesugar:granulatedsugar,whichisthestuffyou’reprobablymostfamiliarwith,andsuperfinesugar,whichisgranulatedsugarthat’sbeengroundintofinercrystals.Alsoknownas“castersugar”or“baker’ssugar,”superfinehasthesamevolume-to-weightratioasgranulated.Forexample,1cupequals7oz/200gforbothgranulatedandsuperfine.
Wetypicallydon’tusepowderedorconfectioners’sugarinsimplesyrups,becauseitcontainsabout3percentcornstarch,whichisaddedtopreventclumping.Usingpowderedsugarisgoinggiveyouaslightlythickened,scummysyrup—definitelynotwhatyou’relookingfor.
BROWNSUGAR
Despiteasomewhatrusticlookandflavor,brownsugarisevenmoreprocessedthanwhitesugar,becauseit’sactuallyhighlyrefinedwhitesugarwithmolassesaddedattheendoftheprocessforflavoringandmoisture.
Lightbrownsugaris3.5percentmolasses,anddarkbrownsugaris6.5percent.Botharesuitableforcocktails;makeyourchoiceaccordingtohowmuchmolassesflavoryou’dlike.Ipreferadarkbrownsugarsyrup,andIuseitalmostexclusively
whenmakinganIrishCoffee(page150).
RAWSUGAR
TurbinadosugarandDemerarasugararethetwocommonnamesforwhatisessentiallyunprocessedsugar.Theyarebothlightambersugarswithfairlylargecrystalsmadefrompressingsugarcanetoextractthejuice,lettingthecanejuicedrytobecomesyrupy,andthencrystallizingit.ThenameDemeraracomesfromtheformerDutchcolonyinwhatisnowGuyana,butthesedaysDemerarasugarismostlyproducedinMauritius,anislandintheIndianOcean.
Turbinadosugar,namedforthecentrifugeusedtoextractthecanejuice,ismadeprimarilyinHawaii.You’llfindthisstyleofsugarsoldunderthebrandnameSugarintheRaw,whichishowmanypeoplenowrefertoit.Bothofthesesugarshavemoreflavorthanwhitesugar,withjustahintofcaramelandmolasses.Rawsugarsaregreatinspirit-drivenrumdrinks.
MUSCOVADOSUGAR
Thisbrownsugarhasthemostcharacter.It’snotalwayseasytofind,butit’sworthseekingoutatspecialtygrocerystoresforitsmorecomplex,deepmolassesflavorandaroma.
Muscovadoisproducedbypressingfreshcanejuiceandthencookingitabitbeforedryingandcrystallizingit,givingitadeepercaramelflavorthanregularrawsugars.Thetextureisbothfineandverymoist,andthecoloristhedarkestbrownofallthesugars.Muscovadoisusedintheproductionofsomerumsandbringswithitanexoticaura.Itshinesbeautifullyintiki-styledrinks.
HONEY
Eventhoughhoneytechnicallycomesfromthehivealreadyinsyrupform,it’ssothickthatitwon’tdissolveinacocktailwithoutfurtherdilution.SoIliketoprepareitasasimplesyrup.
Beawarethattheflavorofhoneycanvaryradically,dependingonitssource.Agenerichoneyinalittleplasticbearfromthegrocerystorewilloffermostlysweetnesswithatouchofcharacteristichoneyflavor.Butsingle-sourcehoneysrangefromthecitrus-ynotesofanacaciahoneytothedownrighthuskyandgrainyflavorofabuckwheathoney—deliciousandfuntopairwithotherflavors.Justbesuretotasteyourfarmers’markethoneybeforemakingyoursyrup,sothatyouknowwhatflavorsyou’rebringingtoyourcocktails.
AGAVESYRUP
Agavesyrup,alsocalledagavenectar,ismadefromtwovarietiesofagaveplant,whichisalsothesourceoftequilaandmezcal.Agavesyrupisaboutoneandahalftimessweeterthanwhitesugar,andit’salsosweeterthanhoney,thoughthinnerandlessviscous.
Inrecentyears,agavehasdevelopedareputationamonghealth-consciousconsumersforbeingmorehealthfulthancaneorbeetsugars.Thiscomesfromthemisconceptionthatagavesyrupislessprocessedthansugar.Actually,althoughitdoeshavealowerglycemicindexthansucroseproducts,mostagavesyrupisahighlyprocessed,industriallyproducedsweetenerthatisnobetterthanhighfructosecornsyrup.Ifyou’reokaywiththat,goaheadandusewhateveryoucanfind.Butyoucanalsoseekoutsmallerproducerswhoworkwithlocalfarmerstoprovideanorganic,lessprocessed,lowerfructoseproduct.Yourtastebudswillthankyou.Lightagavesyrupsarefairlyneutralinflavor,butsomeofthedarker,moreartisanalversionstastesomethinglikeablendofhoney,caramel,andstewedpineapple.Thesyrupisshowingupincocktailsaroundtheworld;itaddsanotherlayerofagaveflavortotequilaandmezcalcocktails.
MAPLESYRUP
Perhapslesscommonincocktailsthananyoftheprevioussweeteners,maplesyrupcanbringafantasticcharactertoadrink,providedyouknowhowtousesomerestraint.Aswithhoneyandagavesyrups,weneedtodilutemaplesyruptocreateacomponentthat’seasilyincorporatedintoacocktailanddeliversaconsistentdoseofsweetness.
Maplesyrupissoldintwogrades—AandB—andparadoxically,gradeBisthefavoriteamongthoseofuswhocareaboutflavor.Deeper,andslightlysmokierthanthepremiumgradeA,gradeBisjustmoreinterestingandcomplex.Unfortunately,it’snotalwayseasytofindingrocerystores,soyoumayneedtoseekoutaspecialtygrocerorshoponline.
CALORIECOUNTSFORSUGARS
TYPEOFSUGAR CALORIESPERTEASPOON
Whitesugar 16
Rawsugar 15
Brownsugar 15
Muscovadosugar 15
Honey 20
Agavesyrup 20
Maplesyrup 17
ASUGARISASUGARISASUGAR
Despiteverydifferentappearancesandflavors,allsugarsarequitesimilarchemically.Whethergoldenhoney,moistbrownsugar,orsparklingwhitesuperfinegranulated,thesweetenersaresomecombinationoftwosimplesugarmolecules:glucoseandfructose.Whiteandbrownsugarsareacombinationofboth,whilemore“natural”sugarssuchashoney,maplesyrup,andagavesyruparemostlyfructose(asiscornsyrup,whichwedon’tgenerallyuseincocktailmaking).
Somepeoplefeelthattheless-refinedsugarsandsyrupsaremorehealthful—forexample,thathoneyisbetterthangranulatedsugar.It’struethatourbodiesprocesseachtypeofsugarslightlydifferently—glucosegoesdirectlyintothebloodstream,whilefructoseismetabolizedfirstinthelivertobecomeglucose.Butmostofthescienceindicatesthatsugarissugarissugarasfarasnutritionisconcerned.Youdogetaddedmineralsorotherbeneficialingredientsfromminimallyprocessedsugars,butnotenoughtobesignificant,otherthanfromaphilosophicalpointofview.
MEASURINGYOURINGREDIENTSFORSIMPLESYRUPSimplesyrupisgenerallyfoundintwostrengths:Equalpartssugarandwater,themostcommonstrengthinU.S.bars,isreferredtoas“one-to-one”(1:1).Twopartssugartoonepartwateris,asyoumightguess,referredtoas2:1,whichisthestandardsyrupinU.K.bars;intheStates,you’lloftenhear2:1syrupbeingreferredtoas“richsimplesyrup.”
Youcanmeasureyoursyrupingredientsbyvolume(withameasuringcup)orbyweight(usingascale).VolumeiscertainlythemostcommonmethodintheStates,andbyfartheeasiesttodescribe:Usethesame1-cup/240-mlmeasureforthesugarandhotwater,andstirthemtogetheruntilthesugarisdissolvedintothewater.Butthevolumemethoddoesn’treallyallowforenoughprecisionformyobsessive-compulsivetastes.Firstoff,8floz/240ml(thevolumemeasure)ofsugarweighscloserto7oz/200g,soour1:1ratioisactually7/8:1.
WHYCRYSTALSTRUCTUREMATTERS
Mathematicsaside,let’sthinkaboutwhatthosesugarcrystalslooklikecloseup.Pictureameasuringcupfulloflittleblocks,andinbetweeneachlittleblockisagapofair.Youcanimaginethatsomeofthoselittleblocksaregoingtolineupbetterthanothers,andthatthenumberofblocksinthemeasuringcupisgoingtodependonhowwellalignedallthoseblocksare.
Forgranulatedorsuperfinesugar,alignmentisn’tabigissue,becausethecrystalsaresmallandtheyfillthevolumemeasureprettymuchthesamewayeachtime.However,chunkiersugarsandthemoistbrownsugarscanbehugelyvariable.Averyfluffybrownsugarwilltakeupmorespaceinthemeasuringcupthanonethathasbeencompactedthroughsittingontheshelfforsometime.The1-cup/240-mlmeasureoffluffysugarwouldyieldlessactualsugar—andmoreair—thanthesamemeasureofpackedsugar.
DifferentDensitiesoftheSameVolumeofSugar
Amoreaccuratemethodistomeasureyoursugarsandwaterbyweight.Stickacuporbowlonascale,tareitoutto0,andthenweighout8oz/225gofsugarand8oz/225gofwater.
DISSOLVINGTHESUGARINTHEWATER
Onceyou’veweighedingredients,thenextstepistodissolvethesugarinthewater.Aswithsomanythingsinbartending,therearetwoschoolsofthought:
HotProcess
ThisisthemethodIprefer,asdomostbartendersIknow.Allyoudoisgentlyheatthesugarandwaterwhilestirringtodissolvethesugar,andpromptlyremovefromtheheatonceallthesugarisdissolved.(Rememberfromouricedteaexample,sugarismoresolubleinhotliquidthanincold.)Takecarenottoletthesyrupactuallyboil,asthiswillevaporatethewaterandchangetheratioofwatertosugar.
Sterilizeyourbottleorjarbyfillingitwithboilingwater;poursomeoverthelid,too.Dumpthewateroutrightbeforeyoufillwiththehotsyrup.
ColdProcess
Withthismethodyoumakethesimplesyrupwithroom-temperaturewater,usuallythroughagitationsuchasstirringorshaking.You’llhearbartendersadvocatingforcold-processsimplesyrupbecauseitpreventsthesucrosefromseparatingintoglucoseandfructosemolecules.Ievenreadaninterviewwithoneguywhostatedfirmlythatheusesonlycold-processedsimplesyruptoretainthat“fresh,uncookedcaneflavor”asifthatweren’tabsoluteb.s.Sure,sucrosebreakingdownintoglucoseandfructoseiswhathappenstosomeextentduringcooking,butittakesahellofalotoftimeandheattodoit.I’veyettohearanyrealconvincingargumentsinfavorofcold-methodmixing,andinblindtastetestsI’vealwayschosenthehot-processedsimplesyrup.It’slessworkandhasalongershelflifebecauseithasbeensterilizedbythehighertemperature.Skipthecoldprocessandusealittleheat.
STORINGTHESYRUP
Sugarisusedincookingasapreservative—thinkjamsandjellies,whicharealsocalledpreserves.Sosimplesyrupshaveadecentshelflife,whenpreparedandstoredproperly:madewithveryhotwaterandstoredinasterilecontainerintherefrigerator.
Butdecentdoesn’tmeaninterminable—lefttoolong,yoursyrupcangetmoldy,somakeonlyquantitiesthatyou’relikelytousewithinareasonabletimeframe.Storedintherefrigerator,1:1hot-processsimplesyrupshouldlast1month,while2:1simplesyrupshouldlast6months.Cold-processsyrupscanbecomemoldyinaslittleashalfthattime.
SUGARSYRUPSINCOCKTAILSBackintheeighteenthandnineteenthcenturies,therewere,astherearetoday,manydifferenttypesofdrinks.Therewerepunches.Therewerejuleps.Therewerecobblersandsmashes,crustasandsangarees,flipsandnoggs.Andtherewerecocktails.Alegacyoftheseearlycocktailsisourfrequentuseofsugarsyrupstoday.
ThefirstprinteddefinitionofthewordcocktailcamefromtheHudson,NewYork,newspaperTheBalanceandColumbianRepositoryin1806.Whenaskedbyasubscriberwhatthis(relatively)newwordcocktailmeant,theeditorreplied:
Cocktailisastimulatingliquor,composedofspiritsofanykind,sugar,water,andbitters—itisvulgarlycalledbitteredsling,andissupposedtobeanexcellentelectioneeringpotion,inasmuchasitrenderstheheartstoutandbold,atthesametimethatitfuddlesthehead.Itissaid,alsotobeofgreatusetoademocraticcandidate:becauseaperson,havingswallowedaglassofit,isreadytoswallowanythingelse.
Hilariouspoliticalcommentaryaside,thiscrudeformula—anytypeofspirit,sugar,water,andbitters—isnotabadformulaforafamilyofdrinks.JerryThomas’sTheBarTender’sGuide(1862)wasthefirstbookofdrinkrecipeseverpublishedintheUnitedStates.Hedescribeshowtomakeawhiskeycocktailwithin:
3or4dashesofgumsyrup[seepage93]
2dashesofbitters(Bogart’s)
1wineglassofwhiskey,andapieceoflemonpeel.
Fillone-thirdfulloffineice;shakeandstraininafancyredwineglass.
Ifthedrinkisbeginningtosoundatallfamiliar,itisbecauseitisthesamedrinkwetypicallythinkofasanold-fashionedtoday.Itisbelievedthatoncethewordcocktailtookhold,alldrinksbecameknownascocktails(astheystillare),andold-timerslookingforthatoriginalformulamightaskthebartenderforacocktail“intheoldfashion.”
Onetrickthatmanycocktail-mindedbartendersliketokeepuptheirsleevesthesedaysistheold-fashionedvariation.Putsimply,we’llmakeanold-fashionedcocktailwithabasespirit,andthenmatchthesweetenertothebase.
HOUSEOLD-FASHIONED
Thisisthestandardold-fashionedwemakeatmybar.Theformulahasneverdisappointedeventhemostdiscerningclassiccocktaildrinker,butthenagainit’sprettymuchcribbedwordforwordfromJerryThomas(savefortheBogart’sbitters,whicharesadlystillextinctatthetimeofthiswriting).
MAKES1DRINK
1tsp/5ml2:1simplesyrup(seepage78)
2dashesAngosturabitters
2oz/60mlbourbonwhiskeyLargeicecubes
1orangepeelforgarnish
CHILLEDOLD-FASHIONEDGLASS
Combinethesimplesyrup,bitters,andbourboninamixingglassandstirwithicecubes.Strainoverfreshiceintoanold-fashionedglass.Twistthepeeloverthesurfaceofthecocktail,rubtherimoftheglasswiththepeel,anddropinthedrinktoserve.
RUMOLD-FASHIONED
Occasionallywe’llencounterrumdrinkerswhomayhavebeenexposedtothespiritonlythroughtropicalfruit-basedconcoctions.Sowhenwe’reaskedtowhipupsomethingdifferentwithrum,thisisoftenthefirstdrinkwe’llturnto.
MAKES1DRINK
1tsp/5ml1:1Demerarasyrup(seepage78)2dashesHouseOrangeBitters(page138)
2oz/60ml12-yearrumLargeicecubes
1limepeelforgarnish
CHILLEDOLD-FASHIONEDGLASS
CombinetheDemerarasyrup,bitters,andruminamixingglassandstirwithicecubes.Strainoverfreshiceintoanold-fashionedglass.Twistthepeeloverthesurfaceofthecocktail,rubtherimoftheglasswiththepeel,anddropinthedrinktoserve.
OAXACAOLD-FASHIONED
TherearefewpeopleintheworldaspassionateaboutMexico’snativespiritsasPhilWard.ProprietorofMayahuel,inNewYork,Phillives,eats,andbreathesagave.Hecreatedthisdrinkin2007,attheNewYorkbarDeath+Company,toravereviews.ItwascertainlyoneofthemostingenioususesoftequilaandmezcalI’deverheardof,andit’stuckedintomanybartenders’backpocketsasago-toagavecocktailthesedays.
MAKES1DRINK
11/2oz/45mlreposadotequila1/2oz/15mlmezcal1tsp/5ml2:1agavesimplesyrup(seepage78,madewithagavesyrup)
2dashesBittermensXocolatlMolebitters
Largeicecubes
WideswathofgrapefruitpeelforgarnishCHILLEDOLD-FASHIONEDGLASS
Combinethetequila,mezcal,simplesyrup,andbittersinamixingglassandstirwithicecubes.Strainoverfreshiceintoanold-fashionedglass.Twistthepeeloverthesurfaceofthecocktail,rubtherimoftheglasswiththepeel,anddropinthedrinktoserve.
MAPLEOLD-FASHIONED
Sometimespairingthesweetenerwiththebasespiritisaboutusingthesamerawingredient,asisthecasewiththeRumandOaxacaOld-Fashioned(atleft).Butatothertimesit’saboutinvokingarangeofflavorsthatarefamiliartotheregion,asisthecasewiththisdrink.Maplesyrupandwhiskyworkwonderfullytogether,andthehighcinnamoncontentofthebitterstiesupthewholepackage.
MAKES1DRINK
2oz/60mlCanadianwhisky1tsp/5ml2:1maplesimplesyrup(seepage78,madewithmaplesyrup)
2dashesFeeBrothersOldFashionAromaticBitters
Largeicecubes
WideswathoflemonpeelforgarnishCHILLEDOLD-FASHIONEDGLASS
Combinethewhisky,simplesyrup,andbittersinamixingglassandstirwithicecubes.Strainoverfreshiceintoanold-fashionedglass.Twistthepeeloverthesurfaceofthecocktail,rubtherimoftheglasswiththepeel,anddropinthedrinktoserve.
CHAPTERNO5
COMPOUNDSYRUPS
BLENDINGSWEETNESS,FLAVOR,ANDTEXTURE
Lockedawayinacommissarykitchen,deepintheheartofEmeryville,California,surroundedbytherichagriculturalbountyofNorthernCalifornia,standsmyfriendJenniferColliau.It’shotandhumidinthekitchen,andtodayit’sprettycrampedbecauseofallofthecratesoffreshproducestackedhigh.AndJen’srightthereinthemiddleofitall,workinghard.
Todayshe’stakingapricotkernelsshefoundinaChineseapothecary,soakingtheminwater,andpressingthemwithalargescrewpress.Atonofworkforverylittlepayoff,butJen’smakingorgeatsyrup—oneoftheclassiccocktailingredientsshe’sknownforamongbartenders—andit’sgottoberight.
JenniferColliaufollowedthesamehaphazardpaththatmanyofusinthebusinesswandered.ShepickedupherfirstgigatanIrishbarinLosAngelesinthemid-’90sprettymuchbyjusthangingaround.Shepouredsomebeers,sawsomeFloggingMollyshows,andputafewbucksinherpocket.And,youknow,shelikedit.SoshemoveduptoasolidSouthwesternjointwithakillertequilaprogramandspentsometimedelvingintoagavespirits.BlindtastingtolearnthedifferencebetweenLowlandandHighlandtequilas.Gettingtoknowartisanmezcalproductionmethods.Confrontingsalesrepsabouttheuseofdiffusersinmass-marketjoventequilas.Thatsortofstuff.Becausethat’sthesortofobsessivefreakmyfriendJenis:whenshe’sinterestedinsomething,shemakescertainthatshe’stheworld’sforemostexpertonit.Butregardless,ifyouaskedherwhatshedidforalivingbackthen,sheprobablywouldhavetoldyoushewasastudent,notabartender.
LosAngeleswaseventuallytradedfortheBayArea,andherattentionsslowlymorphedintocabinetryandfurnituredesign.Tendingbarsupportedherwhileshepickeduptheoddwoodworkingcommissions,butbeingtheultimatesortofcraft-orientedworker,shewasquicklyexcellingatboth.
JenandIfollowedsimilarcareerpaths,andweoftentalkaboutthatmomentthathappenstosomeofus,ifwe’reextremelylucky:It’swhentheworkyouwenttoschoolfor,studiedfor,andpaidforisnolongeryourmainfocusandsomeone’spayingyoutodoyourhobby.
ShebeganworkingattheSlantedDoor,onthewaterfrontinSanFrancisco’sFerryBuilding,in2005.Thebarisworldrenownedforacocktailprogrameverybitassophisticatedandingredientdrivenasthefoodfromthemuch-vauntedkitchen.AnditwasherethatJenniferdevelopedherdeep-seatedfrustrationwiththelackofavailabilityofhigh-qualityclassiccocktailingredients.
Itallstartedwiththemaitai.Afterlearningofthedrink’searlyoriginsinneighboringEmeryville,JenandbarmanagerErikAdkinsdecidedtheyneededtoputoneonthemenu.Butapropermaitaicallsfororgeat,asyrupmadewithbitteralmondsorwithfruitpits(seepage112).It’scalledforinsomeoftheearliestclassiccocktails,andthecommercialversionsjustweren’tworkingforJen.
“Haveyouhadtheonetheyuseforcoffee,thatalmond-flavoredcoffeesyrup?Ittasteslikehandsoap,”saysJenwhilewe’reonthephoneoneday.“They’realljustmadewithhighfructosecornsyrupandalmondflavoring.It’sdisgusting.”SoJenbeingJen,shesetouttomakeherown.
Shemadeherownorgeat,andafewothersyrupsforthebar,withherusualall-consumingpursuitofquality.Beforelong,theBayAreacocktailcommunitycameknockingatherdoor,andforayearshesuppliedherfellowbartenderswithherbeautifulhouse-madesyrups.Thenin2008,shestartedSmallHandFoods,makinggumsyrup,raspberrygumsyrup,pineapplegumsyrup,grenadine,and,inextremelylimitedquantities,orgeat.
Sowhenitcametimeformetowritethisbook,Icalleduptheonepersononmyspeeddialwhoknowsmoreaboutcompoundsyrupsthananyoneelseinthebusiness.AndwithouthesitationsheflewuptoPortland,satatmykitchencounter,andsmiledasIbeggedhertoteachme1percentofwhatsheknows.
SWEETSYRUPSWITHADDEDFLAVOR
Acompoundsyrupisjustanotherwaytobringsweetnesstoacocktail.Butunlikesimplesyrups,whichdeliversweetnesswithlittletonoflavor,acompoundsyrupaddsanotherlayerofflavor—orsometimestexture—toyourdrinks.So,insteadofstoringquantitiesoffreshesotericingredients,youcanstockaselectionofcompoundsyrupswiththesameflavors.
Yousee,asyrupalsohastheadvantageofpreservingflavors.Araspberrysyrupwillmaintainitsvibrantflavorandperfumelongerthanfreshraspberryjuiceorpureealone,becausethesugaractsasapreservative.Andthatsortofthingisimportanttobartenderswhowanttoprovideanever-growingarrayofflavorsfortheirguests.
SWEET-AND-SOURSYRUPS
Twootherformsofcompoundsyruphavegainedprominencerecently—shrubsandgastriques.Botharevinegar-based,andbothhavelonghistoriesthatbeganinthekitchenbeforetheymigratedtothebar.
FLAVORLESSBUTFAMILIAR:GUMSYRUP
Thereisonecompoundsyrup,themostbasic,thatdoesn’thaveanyflavoratall.It’scalledgumsyrup,andotherthanthesweetnessandnuancesofflavorfromwhateversugaryouuse,it’sflavorless.Gumsyrupisn’tabouthowittastes,it’sabouthowitfeels.
Gumsyrupwouldhavebeenfamiliartoanybartenderworkingbefore1920.Astandardingredientincocktailsbackthen,gumsyrup(alsospelledtheFrenchway,gommesyrup)consistsofa2:1(rich)simplesyrupmixedwithgumarabic.Alsocalledgumacacia,thisnaturalsubstancewasoriginallyintendedtopreventthesugarsyrupfromcrystallizing,butitalsogavethesyrupasilkymouthfeel.Gumsyrupsfelloutoffavorbecausethegumarabicpowderistrickytouse,butinrecentyearswe’veseenarevivalasbartendersmakeanefforttoseekoutauthenticpre-Prohibitioncocktailingredientsormakethemthemselves.
Gumsyrupismainlyusedinspirit-drivencocktailswhosenaturalconsistencycanbeonthethinside.It’stypicallynotusedincitrus-baseddrinks,suchasdaiquiris,wheremanyofthetexturalnuancesofgumsyrupwouldbelost.Butitcertainly
doesn’thurtinthoseapplications,either.Theamountofsyrupyouuseisoftenquitesmall,butithasjustenoughthickeningpowerthatyourcocktailstakeonasubtlesilkinessnotpresentindrinksmadewitharegularsimplesyrup.
Gumsyruplikelyfelloutoffavorwithbartendersbecauseitcanbe,quitefrankly,ahugepaintomake.TheGentleman’sTableGuide,byE.RicketandC.Thomas,publishedin1871,givesthefollowinginstructions:“Dissolve1lb.ofthebestwhitegumarabicin11/2pintsofwater,nearlyboiling;3lb.ofwhitesugarorcandy;meltandclarifyitwithhalfpintcoldwater,addthegumsolution,andboilalltogetherfortwominutes.”Soundslikeapieceofcake,untilyouactuallytrytomakeitandendupwithahot,stickymessthatisroughlytheconsistencyofpeanutbutter.
Themainissueisthatgumarabicclumpsbadlyinhotorwarmwater.I’veeventriedrunningabatchthroughmycommercialblender,whichcanmakeanythinghomogeneousinseconds,butIstillcameupwithclumps.WhatIneededwasagumsyruprecipethatcouldbemadeeasily,wouldn’tclump,anddidn’tinvolveahotcobraslitheringoutofapotonmystovetop.
Mysolutiontakesabitofadvanceplanning,butit’stheeasiestandmostfoolproofwayyou’llfindformakinggumsyrup.Allowinggumarabictositfor48hoursinroom-temperaturewaterensuresthatallthelumpsdissolvebeautifully.Itisthenblendedwithsimplesyrup.
GUMWHAT?
Ifyou’veheardofgumarabicalready,it’smorelikelyinconnectionwithyourartsupplies,ratherthanasacocktailstaple.Gumarabicisapowderderivedfromthesapoftwotypesofacaciatree,andithasanenormouslybroadrangeofuses.Thesalientqualityofthestuffisitsabilitytocontroltheconsistencyofingredients,soinfoodmanufacturingit’susedasastabilizer,andintheprintingworldit’susedtocontrolinkviscosity.
Butgumarabicisindeedusedmostinthebeverageworld,sinceit’sakeyingredientinCoca-Colaandothersodas,whereitcreatestherightamountofsurfacetensionforthebesttextureandlong-lastingfizz.
ThetwotreesfromwhichgumarabiccomesaretheAcaciasenegalandtheAcaciaseyal,whicharerelated.MostofthesetreesaregrownintheareaofAfricajustbelowtheSahara.Ifyoulookonamap,you’llseethatthisareaincludespartofSudan,themajorproducerofgumarabic.
Shortlyafterthe9/11terroristattacks,astorybegancirculatingontheInternetthatOsamabinLadenownedmostofthegumarabicproductioninSudan,andtherewerecallsforaboycottofallproductsusingit.BinLaden’sholdingshadalreadybeendivestedbytheSudanesegovernmentsixyearsearlier,andfortunatelythestorydiedquickly—butnotbeforemanycommercialfoodproducerschangedtheiringredientliststoread“gumacacia”ratherthan“gumarabic”inanattempttodistancethemselvesfromthismyth.
GUMSYRUP
Gumarabic(orgumacacia,asitisoftenreferredtothesedays)iseasilypurchasedonlinefromretailersofherbsandspices.It’simportanttobeprecise,someasurecarefully.
MAKESABOUT13OZ/385ML
2oz/55ggumarabic(gumacacia)6oz/180mlwater12oz/340gsuperfinesugarInasmallplasticcontainer,combinethegumarabicand2oz/60mlofthewater.Stirwithachopsticktoblend,andcover.Letsitfor48hours,oruntilthegumarabiciscompletelydissolvedinthewater.
Inasmallsaucepan,combinethesugarandremaining4oz/120mlwater.Heatgentlyuntilthesugarbeginstodissolve,andthenfoldinthegumarabicmixture.Removefromtheheatimmediately,letcool,andbottleinaplasticsqueezebottle.Storeintherefrigeratorindefinitely.
HERBSYRUPIdesperatelywantedtoputaMojitoonthecocktailmenuatmyfirstrestaurantjobbackin2001.Itwasabig,busyplaceandafteracoupleofhecticweekends,Irealizedweneededafasterwaytopreparethislabor-intensivedrink.Andthusthemintsimplesyrupwasborn.Theproblemwasthatsteepingfreshmintleavesinhotsimplesyrup,aswedid,resultedinasyrupthatturnedbrownafteronlyafewhoursandleftuswitharatherunappetizing-lookingcocktail.
Hilariously,oursolutionbackinthosedayswastoaddMidoriforalittlegreencoloringandnamethedrinkan“AsianMojito.”HadIknownbetter,wecouldhavesavedmorethanafewpalatesfromthatsicklysweetconcoctionwewereserving.
Thereasonherbsyrupspreparedinthisfashionturndarkisbecauseofaprocesscalledenzymaticbrowning:substancesinplantscalledpolyphenolsallowenzymestocausebrowningwhentheycomeincontactwithoxygen.Yourherbsyrupmaylookclearoralovelyshadeoflightgreenwhenyoufirstmakeit,butonceyou’veexposedittooxygen,itcandarkentoanunappealingshade.
Thewaytostopthoseenzymesfromdoingtheirthingisbysubjectingthemtoalittleheat.Forthat,weuseacookingtechniquecalledblanching.Blanchingissimplyboilingsomethingforafewseconds(oruptoafewminutesforvegetables)todeactivatetheenzymes,andthenstoppingthecookingprocessbyplungingtheingredientsintoicewatertomaintaintheirfreshflavor.
HOWTOBLANCHHERBSFORSYRUPS
Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil(coverthepottospeedthingsup).Inthemeantime,putsomecoldwaterandiceintoamediumbowl,andarrangeadoublelayerofpapertowelsonthecounter.
Oncethewaterisboiling,gatheryourherbs.Don’tpicktheleaves;simplyleavethemonthestalkfornow.Holdingthembytheends,plungethestalksintotheboilingwater.Iblanchsofter,moredelicateherbs,suchasmint,tarragon,andbasil,for15seconds,andhardierherbs,suchasthymeandrosemary,for30seconds.
Oncethetimeisup,removetheherbsfromtheboilingwaterandplungethemimmediatelyintotheicebath.Letthemstaythereforafull1minute,removethemfromthewater,andpatthemdrywiththepapertowels.
Thenextstepiseasy:Removetheleaves,throwtheminablenderwithpremadesimplesyrup,andblendonhighspeedforabout1minute.Allthat’slefttodoisstrainoutthesolidsusingafine-meshsieve,andbottle.
MINTSYRUP
WhileIalwayspreferthesingle-servingmethodformakingaMojito(page233),thislittletrickisagreatwaytomakeabiggrouphappy(say,whilehostingasummertimeCubancookout)andavoidspendingtheentireeveninginthekitchenmakingdrinks.SimplyprepareyourMojitosthenormalway,omittingthemuddledmintandsubstitutingthismintsyrupfortheplainsimplesyrup.Thisamountofsyrupplusafullfifth(750ml)ofrumwillmakeexactly12drinks.Planaccordingly.
MAKESABOUT12OZ/360ML
12oz/360ml1:1simplesyrup(seepage78)5largesprigsor7mediumsprigsfreshmint
Bringalargepotofwatertoaboil.Meanwhileputsomeicecubesinamediumbowlandfillwithwaterforanicebath.
Graspingthestemendsofthemintsprigs,immersetheleafyendscompletelyintheboilingwaterfor15seconds.Removefromthewaterandimmediatelysubmergeintheicebathfor1minute.
Removefromtheicebath,patdrywithpapertowels,andpicktheleavesfromthestems.
Blendtheblanchedmintleavesandsimplesyruponhighspeedinablenderfor1minute.Strainthroughafine-meshstrainerorcheesecloth,pourintoaplasticsqueezebottle,andrefrigerate;itwillkeepforabout1month.
FRUITSYRUPSFruitisamorecommonflavoringingredientforacompoundsyrupthanherbs—manydrinkswanttheflavoroffreshfruit,andsyrupcapturestheessenceofthefruitwithoutaddinganyextravolumetoyourdrink.
Iusethreedifferentmethodstomakemyfruitsyrups,dependingonthecharacterofthefruititself.Highlyjuicyfruitssuchaspomegranatedon’tneedanyaddedwaterinordertomakeasyrup.Mostotherfruitsneedalittleadditionalwater,andsuperfibrousingredientssuchasfreshgingerneedawholelotofaddedwaterinordertotempertheirsmallquantityofpowerfullyflavoredjuice.
SOFTFRUITSYRUPS
Theideabehindafruitsyrupistoextractasmuchflavorandcoloraspossible,whileleavingthephysicalfruitandanycellulosefiberbehind;yourfinalproductshouldbecrystalclear.Mostfruitneedstobecombinedwithwaterinordertogetthedesiredresult.(Pomegranatesareanexception.)
Withraspberriesandothersoftfruit,Ifindthebestwaytoeffectextractionisbysimmeringthefruitinwater,strainingoutthesolids,andthenmixinginsugartocreatethesyrup.Manyrecipesouttherewilldirectyoutosimmerthefruitinsugarsyrup,butIfinditdifficulttocontrolthejuice-to-sugarratiousingthatmethod.Inevitably,someofthesugargetsabsorbedbythefruitandstaysthere,throwingoffyourbalance.
Anotherreasonfornotsimmeringfruitwithsugaristhatwe’regoingtobefilteringthewholeproductthroughacoffeestrainer,andbelieveme,waterandberryjuiceisahellofaloteasiertofilterthanasyrup.Whattakesafewminuteswithoutsugarwillenduptakingyouhourswithsugar,sofilteryourresultsbeforemixingthestill-hotliquidwithsugar.
Whenstrainingsoftfruit,suchasraspberriesorpeaches,pressonthesolidsinyourstrainer,andthenfiltertoobtaintheproperclearconsistency.Forfruitthat’sslightlymorefibrous,suchaspineapple,Iliketopressitgentlywithapotato
masherbeforesimmeringinordertocoaxoutmorejuiceandevenmoreflavor.
SYRUPFROMFIBROUSINGREDIENTS
Iuseamoreaggressivetechniqueforingredientsthatareextremelytoughorfibrous,suchasfreshgingerorrhubarb.Herewe’renotjustchoppingtheingredientbeforeusingit;we’reactuallyprocessingitinablenderwithhotwaterandsugar—essentiallysimmeringwithpulverizationaswellasheat.Notethat,unliketherecipesforRaspberrySyrup(page102)andPineappleSyrup(page103),inwhichIstrainedoutthesolidsandthenfilteredthefruitliquidbeforeIaddedsugar,intheGingerSyruprecipe(seepage103),Isimplypassthesyrupthroughafine-meshstrainerandforgetthefilter.Giventhefactthatgingersyrupwillneverbecrystalclearbecauseofthenatureofgingerjuice,Idecidedtoforegothecoffee-filteringmethodandlivewithatouchofcloudiness.
GRENADINE
We’reallfamiliarwiththebottled,neonredgrenadinethatyoucanfindatthegrocerystore:highfructosecornsyrupwith“naturalandartificialflavors,”preservatives,andartificialredcoloring.Whichissad,becauseclassicgrenadineis,orusedtobe,anyway,nothingmorethanpomegranatesyrupwiththeadditionofafewotheringredients.
I’vefoundthateventhehigher-endcommercialgrenadines,packagedinsexyapothecary-stylebottlesandsoldforoutrageoussumsatspecialtyshopsandgourmetgrocerystores,arestillcrap—nothingmorethanthatawfulneonsyrupmadewithsomefresheringredientsbutstillprocessedtothepointofbeingunrecognizableasafresh-fruitsyrup.
Bartenders,thesedays,prefertomaketheirown,butthereseemstobesomeconfusionabouthowthesyrupshouldlookandtaste.Someoneshouldinformthesefolksthatgrenadineisn’tpalepink,anditcertainlyisn’tbrown.Grenadineisabeautifuldeepredcolor,becauseit’smadefromfreshjuice.
Pomegranatescanseemslightlyinaccessiblebecausegettingthejuiceoutofthosehundredsoftinyseedscanfeeldaunting,butwiththepropermethod(seepage44),it’seasytoextractloadsofjuicefromapomegranate.Ifyou’renotluckyenoughtocurrentlybeenjoyingthethreemonthsoutoftheyearwhenfreshpomegranatesareavailable,Istronglyrecommendthe100percentpomegranatejuicemadebyPOMWonderful.It’stheclosestcommercialproductyou’regoingtofindtofreshpomegranatejuice.Don’tbetemptedbytheglassbottleswithlabelstoutingorganicorall-naturalinthejuiceaisle;I’vetriedthemall,andtheyallsuck.
Sonowthatyou’vegotabunchoffreshpomegranatejuice,eitherfromafruitorabottle,it’stimetoturnitintogrenadine.Manyrecipesyou’llcomeacrosswilltellyoutoconcentratethoserich,freshflavorsbyboilingdownthejuice,butIfindthatthisresultsinanendproductthat’saboutasdeliciousas,well,boiledjuice.Skipit,andgentlyheatthejuiceuntilit’sjustwarmenoughtodissolvethesugar,whichiswellbelowthepointofboiling.You’llstillretainthefreshflavorofthepomegranate.
Youcandothisinasmallsaucepan,oryoucanjustthrowitinthemicrowavefor1to2minutes.Next,we’lladdsugartodissolve,alittlepomegranatemolassesforsomericher,deeperflavors,andatouchoforangeblossomwaterforsomelighterfloralnotes.
Theonlystepleftistoadd1oz/30mlofvodka,ifyoulike;thisisanoptionalpreservative.Ifyou’renotplanningonusingupyourgrenadineoverthecourseofamonth,thenaddit.Butifyou’reservingitinabarandplanongoingthroughitprettyquickly,asIdo,thenyoucanjustskipit.
Ifyoudecidetomakeabigbatchofthestuffinthewinter,whenpomegranatesareinseason,itshouldlastabout1month.Youcanalsojuicemorepomegranates,freezethejuice,andthenmakegrenadinelaterintheyear.Thefrozenjuicewillretainmuchofitsoriginalfreshcharacter,soyoursyrupwillbegoodevenoutofseason.
MAKES16OZ/480ML
16oz/480mlfreshpomegranatejuice(approximately2largepomegranates)orPOMWonderful100%pomegranatejuice
16oz/455grawsugar2oz/60mlpomegranatemolasses
1tsp/5mlorangeblossomwater
Heatthepomegranatejuiceslightly,eitherinamicrowave-safebowlorinasmallsaucepan,soit’sjustwarmenoughtoallowthesugartodissolveeasily.Addthesugar,molasses,andorangeblossomwater,stirringuntilthesugarisdissolved.Allowtocool,andthenbottle.Sealthebottleandrefrigerate;thegrenadinewilllastforupto1month.
JACKROSE
Yourgrenadinewillbegreatinallmannerofclassiccocktails,and,hell,eveninaShirleyTempleifthat’syourthing(IknowItreatmyselftooneatleastonceayear).ButtheonedrinkinwhichIthinkgrenadinereallyshinesistheJackRose.
ThereareanumberofstoriescirculatingabouttheoriginofthenameJackRose,mostofwhichI’msurearealoadofb.s.ThebestoneI’veheardyetisthatJackwasinspiredbytheapplejack,andRosebytherosecolorofthedrink,fromthegrenadine.Regardless,it’sadeliciousclassic.
MAKES1DRINK
11/2oz/45mlapplejack,preferablyLaird’sbonded,ifyoucanfindit3/4oz/22.5mlfreshlemonjuice(seepage22)1/2oz/15mlGrenadine(page98)
Icecubes
1lemonpeelforgarnish(optional)
CHILLEDCOCKTAILGLASS
Combinetheapplejack,lemonjuice,andGrenadineinacocktailshakerormixingglass.Fillwithicecubesandshake.
Strainintothechilledcocktailglass.Twistthepeeloverthesurfaceofthecocktailanddropinthedrink,ifdesired,toserve.
RASPBERRYSYRUP
Intheworldofcocktails,therearefewerthingsmoreevocativeofsummerthanasyrupmadefromfreshraspberries.Thisoneaddsanotherlayeroffarmers’marketfreshnesstoyourdrinks.
MAKES21/4CUPS/540ML
2cups/335gfreshorgood-qualityfrozenraspberries8oz/240mlwater1cup/250ggranulatedsugarInamediumsaucepan,simmertheraspberriesinthewateruntilthejuicehasleachedfromthefruitandthewaterandberriesareapproximatelythesamecolor,5to10minutes.Strainthroughastrainer,pressingontheberriesandthendiscardingthem.Filterthejuicethroughacoffeefiltertoclarify.Whilestillhot,addthesugar,stirringuntildissolved.Letcool,thenbottleandrefrigerate.Thesyrupwilllastabout3weeks.
CLOVERCLUB
There’sprobablyadeephistoricalstorytothisdrink...butIdon’tknowit.WhatIdoknowisthatwhenyoumakethisvariationofaginsourwithraspberrysyrup,it’soneofthemostbeautifulthingsyoucanputinyourmouth.
MAKES1DRINK
11/2oz/45mlgin3/4oz/22.5mlfreshlemonjuice(seepage22)3/4oz/22.5mlRaspberrySyrup(atleft)1/2oz/15mleggwhite(seepage154)
Icecubes
CHILLEDCOCKTAILGLASS
Combinethegin,lemonjuice,raspberrysyrup,andeggwhiteinacocktailshakerormixingglass.Shakeuntiltheeggwhiteisfrothyandtheingredientsarecombined.Addicecubesandshakeagain.Strainintothechilledcocktailglass,andserve.
GINGERSYRUP
Thismethodofmakinggingersyrupisprobablyoneofthebestbartender’stricksI’vepickedupovertheyears.It’sfast,it’seasy,andit’sactuallyreallydelicious,especiallygiventhefactthatrawgingerjuiceissomuchmorepotentthangingerthat’sbeencooked.Iknowalotofbartenderswhousethislittletrick,andit’ssomethingofasecrethandshakewhenIseesomeoneelseusingit.Youcanreplacethesugarwithanequalquantityofhoneytomakeginger-honeysyrup,whichisalsobeautifulincocktails.
Notethatthismethodalsoworksbeautifullyforanothertough,fibrousplant:rhubarb.Ialwaysmakealotofrhubarbsyrupinthespring,whenit’sfirstcomingintoseason.
MAKESABOUT11/2CUPS/360ML
1/2lb/250gfreshginger,washedandcutinto1/2-in/12-mmchunks1cup/240mlboilingwater1/2lb/250gsugar
Putthegingerinablenderandaddtheboilingwaterandsugar.Blendthoroughly,andthenstrainthroughafine-meshsieve.Yoursyrupwon’tbeperfectlyclear;that’sokay.Bottle,label,andstoreintherefrigeratorforupto1week.
PINEAPPLESYRUP
Pineapplesyrupsareimportantinthecocktailrepertoire,especiallyintheworldoftikidrinks.Pineapplesneedabitmoreworktoliberatethejuicefromtheirfibrousflesh.
MAKES12OZ/360ML
One1-lb/480-gpineapple,bothendstrimmed12oz/360ml1:1simplesyrup(seepage78)
Cutthepineapplecrosswiseinto3/4-in/2-cmslices,andthencuteachsliceintosixwedges.Cutoffthepeel.
Combinethepineappleandsimplesyrupinalargebowlandleavetomacerateforatleast4hours,orupto24hours,intherefrigerator.Stirormashthefruitlightlyfromtimetotime.Strainthesyrupintoacleanbowlthroughafine-meshstrainerandpressonthepineapplewithaladletoextractasmuchliquidaspossible.Letcool,bottle,andrefrigerateforupto1week.
HOTELNACIONALSPECIAL
ByCharlesH.Baker.AdaptedbyErikAdkins.
CharlesH.Baker’sincredible1939accountofhisencountersasagadabout,TheGentleman’sCompanion:BeinganExoticCookeryandDrinkingBook,isfullofbreathtakingcocktailrecipesfromaroundtheworld.HisofferingfromtheHotelNacionalinHavana,Cuba,callsforfreshpineapplejuice,butmyfriendErikAdkins,thebarmanagerattheSlantedDoor,inSanFrancisco,putaspinonthedrinkthathasalwaysseemedsoright:usingpineapplesyrupinplaceofthejuice.
I’vegoneonrecordinthepressassayingthatIkindahateErikAdkins.Istrugglewithrecipes,andIsortafeellikeeverysecondspentbehindthebarformeisatensemoment,asIdesperatelytrynottoscrewuppeople’sdrinks.ButErikisn’tlikethatatall;hisdrinksarealways,always,alwaysperfect.Asonemutualfriendsoeloquentlyputit,“Eriksprinklesmagicpixiedustontopofhisdrinks.Nomatterhowhardyoutry,youcannevermakethesamedrinkaswellashecan.”Andit’strue.I’vefollowedhisversionofthisrecipetotheletter,butIstillenjoyitmorewhenhemakesitforme.GoodforyouifyoucanmakeitthewayErikdoes;otherwise,you’llhavetobecontenttobeameremortal,liketherestofus.
MAKES1DRINK
11/2oz/45mlagedrum3/4oz/22.5mlfreshlimejuice3/4oz/22.5mlPineappleSyrup(page103)1/2oz/15mlapricotbrandy
1dropAngosturabitters
Icecubes
1limewheelforgarnish
CHILLEDCOUPEGLASS
Combinetherum,limejuice,pineapplesyrup,apricotbrandy,andbittersinacocktailshakerormixingglass.Fillwithicecubesandshake.
Strainintothechilledcoupeglass.Garnishtherimwiththelimewheelandserve.
OLEOSACCHARUM
Oneofthekeyelementsinaclassicpunchrecipeisaproperoleosaccharum.Makingoleosaccharumthetraditionalwayinvolvespeelingcitrus,gentlymuddlingitintosuperfinesugar,andlettingitrestforanhourormoreuntilthesugaressentiallydissolvesinthecitrusoilasitleachesfromthepeels,creatingwhatisbasicallyacitrusoilcompoundsyrup.Theoleosaccharumneedsoccasionaltendingduringthathour,butwhatyou’reeventuallyleftwithisasweet,aromaticbaseforatastybowlofpunch.
Thebiggestdrawbackforpeoplewho,likeme,makealotofpunch,isthatthisamountoftimeandeffortisjusttoomuch.Ineededamethodthatwouldcutoutallofthestepsinthisprocess,leavingmefreetoperformthemanyotherprepchoresthatmybarrequires.Andthat’swhenwecameupwiththevacuumsealtechniqueformakingoleosaccharum.
Inanutshell,alloftheingredientsareplacedintoavacuumsealbagandsealedundervacuum.Sincethepeelsandsugarareplacedinsuchclosecontact,theoilsbegindissolvingthesugaralmostimmediately.Withinhours,thesugarhasbeenconvertedintooleosaccharumwithnoadditionaltendingorstirringneeded.
MAKESENOUGHFOR1BATCHOFPUNCH
One1-lb/455-gboxsuperfinesugarZestof12lemons(paredwithavegetablepeeler)
Placethesugarandlemonzestintoavacuumsealbagandsealaccordingtothemanufacturer’sinstructions.(WeusetheinexpensiveFoodSavervacuumsealer,and1-qt/960-mlsizebagsatourbar.)
Letthebagrestatroomtemperatureforatleast4hours(oruptoovernight),untilthesugarissoakedinlemonoil.Datethebagsandrefrigerate.Theoleosaccharumwilllastfor1month,unopenedand
storedinthefridge.Alternatively,ifyoudon’thaveavacuumsealer,gentlymuddlethelemonpeelwiththesugarandletrestfor1hour.Storeinaresealableplasticbagortightcontainerintherefrigeratorforupto2weeks.
PHILADELPHIAFISHHOUSEPUNCH
LikelythemoststoriedofallAmericanpunchesisthePhiladelphiaFishHousePunch.Createdsometimearound1732attheSchuylkillFishingClub,inPhiladelphia,thispotentpunchisrumoredtohavekickedoffeverymeeting.Giventheunavailabilityofunsweetenedpeachbrandyatthattime,wepresentourversion,usingDavidWondrich’ssolution,a3:1ratioofAmericanapplebrandytoFrenchsweetenedpeachliqueur.
MAKESABOUT51/2QT/5.2L
1batchOleoSaccharum(page108)
16oz/480mlAppletonEstaterum8oz/240mlSmith&Crossrum12oz/360mlcognac3oz/90mlcrèmedepêche
9oz/265mlapplejack16oz/480mlfreshlemonjuice(seepage22),finelystrained3qt/2.8Lcoldwater
Iceringmold(seepage178)
PUNCHBOWLANDSMALLPUNCHGLASSES
CombinetheOleoSaccharum,bothrums,thecognac,crémedepêche,applejack,lemonjuice,andcoldwaterinapunchbowlandchill.Addtheiceringmoldwhenreadytoserve.
ORGEATIfthere’soneimportantsyrupthat’sbetterlefttothepros,it’sorgeat.Orgeat(OR-zhah)belongstoafamilyofsyrupsthatoriginallywerebarleybased—theLatinwordforbarleyishordeum.Thesweetnesscamefromthebarleysugarsandtheflavoringcamefromalmonds.Eventuallythebarleydroppedoutbutthealmondflavorremained.
Orgeatseemstohavebeenthefirstcompoundsyrupusedincocktails.ItfirstshowedupinJerryThomas’sTheBar-Tender’sGuide(1862)inadrinkcalledtheJapanesecocktail,whichfollowstheoriginalnineteenth-centurydefinitionofacocktail:spirit,sugar,andbitters.Heusesthealmond-flavoredsweetsyrupinsteadofplainsugarsyrup.
Themainflavoringinorgeatisalmonds,bothsweet(thekindofalmondsweeatanduseincooking)andbitteralmonds.Thelatterareslightlycontroversialbecausetheyincludeasubstancecalledamygdalin,whichbreaksdownintocyanideorhydrocyanicacid,whichistoxicinlargequantitiesandusefulinassassinations.Cyanideshouldn’tbetotallyscary,however,becauseit’spresentinalotofnaturalfoodsweeat,butinverysmallandmanageablequantities.Bitteralmondswerealsothoughttocurecancer,however,sopickyourpoison.
Theintensealmondflavororiginallyderivedfrombitteralmondsisalsofoundinthepitsofstonefruits,suchasapricots,peaches,andplums,andsomeorgeatsaremadewiththosefruitpitsinsteadofthebitteralmonds.
Now,mebeingme,wheneverI’matacocktailconventionorontheroad,Ialwaysmeetpeoplewhowanttofoisttheir(mostly)oddhouse-madeingredientsonme.Idon’tknowhowIbecametheDIYposterboy,butifInevertasteanotherawfulbottleofhomemadeorgeatagain,it’llbetoosoon.Makingorgeat—goodorgeat—isaroyalpain,andthisisoneoccasionwhereIdosuggestusingcommerciallyavailablebrands.MyfriendJenniferColliau,atSmallHandFoods,makesthebestoneontheplanet,ifyoucanfindit(seepage88).AnothergoodorgeatismadebyafriendofminehereinPortland,BlairReynolds,theproprietorofB.G.Reynolds’
Hand-CraftedSyrups.Blair’sorgeatdoesn’tgothroughaprocessquiteaspainstakingasJennifer’s,sotheflavorislessintense.Imainlyusehisinrecipesthatcallforalargerquantityoforgeat,morethan1/2oz/15ml.
JAPANESECOCKTAIL
I’mnotreallyahistoryguy,butfromwhatI’veread,JerryThomascameupwiththisdrinktocommemoratethevisitofaJapanesedignitarytoNewYork.Orsomething.AskDavidWondrichifyourunintohim,andtellhimItoldyoutobughim.WhatIdoknowisthatit’sacocktailintheclassicalsense—spirit,bitters,andsweetener,inthiscaseorgeat.
MAKES1DRINK
2oz/60mlcognac1/2oz/15mlorgeat
2dashesAngosturabitters
Icecubes
1lemonpeelforgarnish
CHILLEDCOUPEGLASS
Combinethecognac,orgeat,andbittersinacocktailshakerormixingglass.Fillwithicecubesandshake.
Strainintothechilledcoupeglass.Twistthepeeloverthesurfaceofthecocktailanddropinthedrinktoserve.
SHRUBSLikemanythingsthatweobsessovertoday,shrubsbeganasasimpleexpediency.Intheolddays,freshfruitwaspreciousincolderclimates,suchasincolonialAmerica.Therewerenorefrigerators,sotopreservefruit,afrugalhousewifewouldpileitintoacrockandaddsomevinegar.Thatwouldessentiallypicklethefruit,butitwasstilledibleanddeliciousinitsownway.
Thesoakingliquid,ofcourse,wastherealprize.Asthefruitmacerated,theprocessofosmosisdrewmostoftheflavorandsweetnessoutofthefruitandintothevinegar.Oncethefruithadbeenconsumed,theliquidwasserved,lengthenedbyaddingsomecoolwater.Eventually,someonehadthebrightideatoaddalcohol,andthefruitydrinkwasborn.Asiandrinkingvinegarsareessentiallythesameasshrubs,thoughthey’recomingoutoftheAsiantraditionratherthantheAmericancolonialone.
Wenowuseamethodforthissweet-tartsyrupthatspeedsthingsupandmakesamoredeeplyflavoredproduct.Insteadofmaceratingfruitinvinegarandthenaddingsugar,Isimmerfruitinvinegarforjustafewminutes,andthenstrain,filter,andaddsugar.
Thebeautyofashrubliesinitstensionbetweensweetandsour;it’ssweetenoughtobringbalancetococktails,butitcomeswithahighacidity,whichprovidesastrongstructuretoyourdrinks.
STRAWBERRY-MINTSHRUB
ByNeyahWhite.
Ifthere’sanyonewhocouldwinaninternationalsherrycompetitionbyusingfresh,homemadeingredients,it’saSanFranciscobartender.AndtheSanFranciscobartenderwhoactuallydidsoisNeyahWhite.Godblesshim.
MAKES48OZ/1.4L
1qt/680gveryripestrawberries,hulledandhalvedLeavesfrom10sprigsfreshmint4cups/800gsugar
1tbspkoshersalt
4cups/960mlciderorwhitewinevinegar,oracombinationofthetwoPutthestrawberryhalvesinthebottomofalargebowl,layerthemintleavesontop,coverwiththesugar,andsprinklewiththesalt.Letthismaceratecoveredatroomtemperatureforafewhours,stirringoccasionally,andthenrefrigerateforabout8hours,stirringafewmoretimestobesurethesugarismakingcontactwiththefruit.
Afterasyruphasformed,addthevinegarandstirtodissolveanyundissolvedsugar.(Tospeedtheprocess,transfertoapanandsimmerforafewminutes.)Useimmediatelyorletsitforafewdaystoallowtheflavortodeepen.Ifindmysweetspotisjust1day.Onceyouaresatisfiedwiththeflavor,filterthemixthroughadoublelayerofcheesecloth,pourintocleanbottles,andcovertightly.Theshrubisessentiallypicklednowandcanbestoredintherefrigeratorforupto4months.
CHAPTERNO6
INFUSIONS,TINCTURES&BITTERS
EXTRACTINGANDINTENSIFYINGFLAVORS
In2001,afterhavingtendedbarforfiveyearsinvariousdives(poolhallsandnightclubs),someonefinallytookachanceonmeandputmeinchargeofarealrestaurantcocktailprogram:chef-ownerStephaniePearl-Kimmel’snewpan-Asianconcept,Bamboo,inEugene,Oregon.
Bamboowasawesome.Ourintense,wiryMalaysianchefranthevolatilekitchen,whileawhiteboyfromSantaCruzhelddownthesushibaroutfront.Andofftothesideoftherestaurantwasmytinybar.Thisbeing2001,mybartendersandIputouthuge,colorfulcocktailswithflavored-sugarrimsandallmanneroffruitpureeandnectarintheglass.Andlikeatsomanyotherplacesatthattime,fourlargeinfusionjarssatproudlyonthebackbar.
Therewasablueberrygininfusionfortheblueberrygimlet.Thevodkainfusedwithwholevanillabeanwentintoaboutahundredvanillalemondropseverynight.TheThaichilepeppervodkaspicedupourtakeontheBloodyMary,andthepineapple-habanerotequilamadethemostfamousmargaritaintown.
Today’smustachioed,arm-garteredmixologistswilllaughinderisionatthoseolddaysofinfusedalcohol,perhapsinsteadpreferringtoteaseyourdrinkwithadashoftheirhouse-madeceleryrootbitters,ormaybefinishingitoffwithacocoanibtincture.
Butattheircore,pineapple-and-habanero-infusedtequila,celeryrootbitters,andcocoanibtinctureareallessentiallythesamething:flavorfulcompoundssuspendedinanalcoholsolutionforuseincocktails.Andwhendoneproperly,anyofthesethreecanbeveryeffectiveataddinglayersofflavortoyourdrinks.
INFUSIONS
HOWINFUSIONSWORK
Theinfusionofalcoholwithfoodflavorsoccursviatwophysicalprocesses:osmosisanddissolution.Osmosisiswhathappenswhentheuniversestrivesforbalance.Whentwoliquidscontainingwaterareplacednexttoeachotherandseparatedbyacellwall,there’sadriveforequilibrium.Waterwantstomovefromthesidethathasmorewatertothesidethathaslesswater,inanefforttoeventhingsout.Freshfruitandvegetablescontainalotofwater,whilevodka,forexample,containsalotless.
WaterandAlcoholReachEquilibriumthroughOsmosis
Fratboyswilltellyouthatthepiecesoffruitintheirtubofjunglejuicecontainahigherlevelofalcoholthanthedrinkitself,butthankstoosmosisweknowthattheconcentrationsofalcoholandwaterinsideandoutsideofthefruitareexactlythesame.Alcoholflowsintothecellwalls,waterflowsout,untilequilibriumisreached.Thesugarandotherflavorcompoundsthatareinsidethecellcomealongwiththewater,whichisultimatelywhyourliquorbecomesflavorfulandourfruitbecomesalcoholic.
Thesecondprocess,dissolution,istheactionofthesolvent(inourcase,alcohol)bywhichitunlocksandreleasesthecompoundsfoundinaflavoringingredient(thesolute).Thereisnowatertobeexchanged;theprocessissimplyallaboutdissolvingthosecompoundsintothealcohol.
Foralcoholtoworkeffectivelyasasolvent,itneedstobeinhighconcentrations,atleast40percentalcohol.Atthatlevel,thereareenoughalcoholmoleculestoconnectwiththesoluteanddothejob;atlowerconcentrations,thereismorewater,andthewaterbondswiththealcoholandinterfereswithitsabilitytoengagewiththoseflavorcompounds.
Here’saneasywaytothinkofthesetwoprocessesinaction:Forinfusionsinvolvingfreshingredients—fruit,vegetables,herbs,flowers—osmosisistheprimaryactiontakingplace.Forinfusionsinvolvingdriedflavorings—spices,driedcitruspeel,roots—dissolutionisthemaindriveroftheflavorexchange,asthere’snowaterleftinthosecellwallsforosmosistotakeplace.
THECOMPLEXITIESOFFLAVORANDINFUSIONS
Flavorisacomplicatedthing.Someofwhatwetastewhenweeatordrinkisourmouth’sresponsetothefivebasicflavors:sweet,sour,salty,bitter,andumami.ButontopofthosefundamentalfiveareallthesubtletiesthatmakeapeartastelikeapearandIslayScotchtastelikeIslayScotch.Mostofthoseflavorcompoundsareactually“tasted”byusthroughreceptorsinournasalpassages.
Whenwe’recooking,wewanttoreleasethosemanyflavorcompoundssothattheycanblendwithothersandwecantastethemmorefully.Someflavorcompoundsaresolubleinwater,somearesolubleinfat,andsomearesolubleinalcohol.
Thebestexampleofhowthisworksismakingavegetablesoup.Youcouldputallyourvegetablesinapot,addwater,andsimmer,andthesoupwouldbe,youknow,fine.Butifyoufirstsautéedthoseingredientsinsomefatbeforesimmeringthem,yoursoupwouldbericherandmorecomplex,havingbothwater-solubleandfat-solubleflavorsinthepot.
Relativelyrecently,chefsandbartendershavebeenexperimentingwithaformofinfusioncalledfatwashing.Afattyingredientinitsliquidstate,suchaswarmbacongreaseormeltedbutter,isblendedwithaspirit(baconandbourbonisapopularcombination)andlefttoinfuse.Thefatreleasessomeflavorcompoundsandthealcoholdissolvesothers,sothatyou’releftwiththesmoky,porky,saltyflavorsofthebacon.About24hoursatroomtemperaturewithfrequentagitationshoulddothetrick.
Nowtheonlythinglefttodoisremovethefatfromthealcoholtoreclaimtheconsistencyoftheoriginalspirit.Forthat,weusethemethodanycookwhohasmadegravyorchickenstockknows:wepopitinthefreezerorrefrigerator.Thefatwillrisetothesurfaceandcongealandcanbeliftedoffinbigpiecesanddiscarded.Thealcoholwillstillneedtobestrainedthroughacoffeefiltertoremoveallthegrease,buttheflavorsthatcamealongwiththefatwillindeedstaybehind.
Oftheinfusions,tinctures,andbittersthatweusebehindthebar,infusionsaretheleastintenselyflavored.Yourgoalwhenmakinganinfusionistoaddflavorfromthefruit,spice,orherbyou’vechosen,whilepreservingtheflavoroftheoriginalalcohol,sinceyou’lllikelybeusingthisasabasespiritinyourcocktails,andnotsimplyasanaccent.
Forthisreason,wewanttostartwithashighqualityaliquoraspossible.Eventhougheventuallysomeofthenuancesoftheliquorwillbemaskedbytheinfusedflavors,Ialwaysfollowonesimplerule:Garbagein,garbageout.Thisisnotimetoskimponingredients.
CHOOSINGYOURINGREDIENTS
Forthemostflexibilityintermsofcreatingasuccessfulcombination,chooseanunagedspiritsuchasgin,vodka,whiterum,orblancotequila.Theflavorsofthesemoreneutralliquorswillpairwithjustaboutanythingyoudreamof.
Aspiritwithabiggerflavorprofilesuchasbourbon,Scotch,ordarkrumwillneedamoreconsideredpairing,becauseacollisionofflavorsisagreaterpossibility.Butwhenthespiritandtheinfusioningredienthaveanaturalaffinity,suchasbourbonandpeaches,theresultsjustfeelright.
Asyou’redecidingwhatingredientstoinfuseintoyourliquor,practicesomerestraint;itcanbetemptingtocreatemultiflavoredcombinations,buttoomanyflavorswilljusttastemuddy,especiallyifthey’resimilar.IfI’mgoingtousemorethanoneflavor,Iwantthemtobecontrastingflavors,suchasafruitandachile,ratherthansimilarones,suchasblackberryandplum.
Softfruitsandvegetablessuchascherries,peaches,pineapple,plums,raspberries,strawberries,andtomatoeshaverelativelymildflavorsandsoneedtobeusedinlargequantitiesinordertodeliverenoughflavortothealcohol.Lookforspiritsthatweighinataround100proofwheninfusing,asthewatercontainedinsidethecellwallofthefruitisgoingtolowerthealcoholcontentofyourspirit.
HowtoInfuseLiquor
Iusearatioof2partsfruitorvegetableto1partalcohol,byweight.TheimportantexceptioniswhenI’musinghotchiles;seepage124foradviceonthose.
1.Rinseyourfruitandremoveanystemsorleaves(they’lladdbitterorvegetalnotes,whichyoutypicallydon’twant).Whetheryoupeelornotisuptoyou;skinsaddalotoftheirownflavor,soit’sfinetoleavethemon.
2.Cutthefruitintothumb-sizepiecestomaximizethesurfacearea,orcutsmallthingslikeplumsinquartersandstrawberriesinhalf(there’snoneedtocutreallysmallfruit,suchasblueberries).
3.Pilethefruitintoyourcleancontainer—IusuallyuselargeMasonjars—andthencoverwiththealcoholandseal.(Don’tuseplasticbecausethealcoholcanencouragesubstancesinittoleachintoyourliquor.Nothealthy.)Leavetoinfuseawayfromdirectsunlight;unrefrigeratedisfine.
4.Manymethodscallforhighlydisciplinedagitation,onaprecisedailyschedule.Itendtoagitatemyinfusingalcoholssimplybyoccasionallypickingupthejarsandturningthemover,outofcuriositymorethananything.Itprobablydoesaverageouttoonceaday,butifyoudon’tgetaroundtoit,don’tstressyourselfoutoverit.Militarilyscheduledagitationisn’tneeded.Threeweeksisatypicalamountoftimefortheflavorexchangetotakeplace,butsomeingredientsmaytakeabitlonger,sotastebeforeproceedingtothenextsteptobesureyou’veachievedtheconcentrationofflavorthatyouwant.
5.Whentheflavorisasyoulike,strainthemixturethroughacolanderormeshstrainer,gentlypressingonthefruitsoitgivesupasmuchofthejuiceandalcoholtrappedinsidethecellwallsaspossible,withoutpulverizingtheremainsinthestrainer.
6.Youneedtofiltertheinfusion,inordertomakeitcrystalclearandfreeofanyfruitsludge.Mostexpertsrecommendwhat’scalledsubsidence—basicallylettingthemixturesettle,skimmingtheclearstuffoffthetop,andleavingthesolidstuffatthebottom.Ipreferthecoffee-filtermethod.
HOWTOSTRAININFUSEDLIQUOR
Suspendalargestraineroverabowlandlineitwithalarge,flat-bottomcoffeefilter,(thetypeyou’duseforadripcoffeemachineatanoffice,suchastheonesmadebyBunn).Youmayhavethemalreadyatyourbar,butyoucanbuytheminmostgrocerystoresanddefinitelyatarestaurantsupplystore.Pourtheliquorthroughthefilter.Oncefiltered,theinfusedspiritisreadytobebottledandused.
STORINGINFUSEDLIQUORS
Infusedliquorslastindefinitely,intermsofflavorquality,buttheircolors—whichcanbespectacular—willfadeovertime(probablywithin6months),especiallyifexposedtodirectsunlight.Aswithallspirits,storingtheminadarkplaceawayfromdirectsunlightisbest.
TEQUILAPORMIAMANTE
ByCharlesH.Baker
MAKESABOUT16OZ/480MLInfusedalcoholmightseemlikearelativenewcomerintheworldofcocktails,butinhisrevolutionary1939chronicleofhisgustatoryworldtravels,TheGentleman’sCompanion:BeinganExoticCookeryandDrinkingBook,CharlesH.Bakerdescribesastrawberry-infusedtequilacalledTequilapormiAmante,or“TequilaforMyLover,”acreepynameforadrink,probablybestleftuntranslated.
InSeptember1942,Gourmetmagazinerecommendedserving3oz/90mloftheluscious,rosyelixirinacollinsglasswiththejuiceofasmalllimeandfinishingitwithiceandsoda.Thetequilaalsomakesthebeststrawberrymargaritayou’veevertried,butIfindittobeadamnfinesipperstraightoutofthefridge,whichishowItakemine.1qt/680gripefreshstrawberries,halved16oz/480mlreposadotequilaCombinetheberriesandtequilaina1-qt/960-mlcanningjarandseal.Letsitfor3weeks,agitatingoccasionally.
Strainthroughameshstrainer,gentlypressingontheberriestoreleasetheirliquid.Discardtheberries.Straintheentiremixturethroughacoffeefiltersuspendedinastrainersetoverabowl.Bottleandstoreawayfromdirectsunlightindefinitely,thoughthecolormayfadeafter6months.
INFUSINGWITHHOTCHILES
Freshchilesareworthycandidatesforinfusions.Thecombinationofspicyheatandfruity,grassyflavorsgivesspiritslikevodkaortequilaadeliciousdimension,whichinturnmakesfordeliciouscocktails.JustimagineaThaichileBloodyMarytoperkupadrearywinterday,oraspicyjalapeñomargaritaattheheightofsummer.
Butchilesdorequiresomespecialhandlinginordertoprotectyourselfandmitigatetheirseriousheat.Itmightseeminconvenient,butIrecommendyoualwayswearfood-service-gradelatexgloveswhilecuttingfreshchiles.They’recheapandthey’remultipurpose;Ikeepaboxathomeforeverythingfromcuttingchilestohandlingthingslikepaintorshoepolish.
Also,besuretogiveyourcuttingboardandknifeapropercleanuprightaway.Theheat-producingcompoundinchiles—calledcapsaicin—ispotent,andifitmigratestothewronglocation,suchastoyoureyesoranyother,uh,sensitiveareas,youcandevelopsomeunfortunateproblems—nottomentionaconsiderableamountofpain.
Mostoftheheatisconcentratedintheinternalribsofthechile,whichholdtheseeds.Whiletheseedsthemselvesarehot,thewhitishribs(calledtheplacenta)aretheepicenter.Asyouprepyourinfusioningredients,decidewhethertoincludetheribsandseedsornot.Aninfusioncontainingseedsandribswilltakeonmorespicemorequickly,whileaseedlessandriblessinfusionwillhavebeautifulvegetalflavorsunderneaththeheat.Thetrickythingaboutinfusingwithfreshchilesisthewidevariationinheatlevelamongspecimensofthesametypeofchile.Youmightbeabletotakeabitefromonejalapeñobutnotgetasecondonepastyourlipswithoutpain.Evenchilesfromthesameplantcanhaveradicallydifferentheatlevels.Thatbeingsaid,there’sahierarchyofheat,expressedthroughtheScovillescale,withapoblanobeingoneofthemildestandthefabledghostchilebeingthehottestintheworld...thatweknowof.
ScovilleScale
CHILE
AVERAGESCOVILLEHEAT
AVERAGESCOVILLEHEATUNITS
Poblano 2,000
Jalapeñoandchipotle 5,000
Serrano 17,000
Bird’s-eye(Thaichile) 75,000
HabaneroandScotchbonnet
200,000
Nagajolokia(ghostchile) 1,000,000
Police-gradepepperspray 5,000,000
Purecapsaicin 16,000,000
Youwantyourchile-infusedspirittobebalanced—andnotlethal—andbecauseofachile’svariability,it’simportanttostarttastingearlierthanyouwouldanothertypeofinfusedspirit.Itastetestmychileinfusionsafter1day.Ifit’sgonepastthepointofbeingcomfortabletoconsume,I’llstraintheinfusionandcutbacktheheatbyaddinguninfusedspirituntilit’swhereIwantittobe.
INFUSIONSOFHERBS,SPICES,ANDOTHER
INGREDIENTS
Toinfuseliquorwithherbsorspices,youusethesameprocessaswithfruit:combinetheflavoringwiththespirit,wait,strain,filter,anddrink.Sincethereislittletonowatercontainedwithinthecellwallsofthesetypesofingredients,however,theprocessforthissortofinfusionisallaboutthedissolutionofthepotentoilsandcompoundscontainedwithin.Eighty-proofliquorshouldbesufficientsinceyouwon’tbelosinganyalcoholstrengthtowatercontent.
InfusingwithHerbs
Tenderfreshherbsaresoftenoughthattheirflavorwillleachoutwithoutanyadditionalprepsuchaschoppingorgrinding,and,infact,doingsocanleadtoamurkyinfusionandbitterflavors.Hardierherbscanbenefitfromagentlebruisingtohelpreleasetheiroils.
Allinfusionsareultimately“totaste,”intermsofhowmuchingredienttouseandforhowlongtoinfusethem,butherearesomeguidelinesforherbinfusions.
Tenderfreshherbs,suchasbasil,chives,cilantro,dill,mint,parsley,shiso,ortarragon:Forone750-mlbottleofvodka,use2cups/50glightlypackedsprigs(noneedtoremovethestems).Steepfor1week,agitatingregularly,andthenstrainandfilter.
Hardier,resinousherbs,suchasmarjoram,oregano,rosemary,sage,orthyme:Forone750-mlbottleofvodka,use1cup/40glightlypackedgentlycrushedsprigs(removelargeorwoodystemsonly).Steepfor1week,agitatingregularly,andthenstrainandfilter.
THYME-INFUSEDCOINTREAU
MAKESONE750-MLBOTTLEOnelittletrickthatIliketoemploybehindthebarisinfusingflavoredliqueurswithcomplementaryflavors.Cointreauisanabsolutelygorgeousorangeliqueurthatjusthappenstobe80proof,andifanyherbpairsbeautifullywithorange,it’sthyme.
Onedrinkthattakesadvantageofthisnaturalpairingandhighlightsitbeautifullyisthewhitelady(seepage161),oneofmyfavoritedrinksmadewithCointreau.1cup/40gfreshthymesprigs,gentlybruisedOne750-mlbottleCointreau
CombinethethymeandCointreauina1-qt/960-mlcanningjarandletsitfor1week,agitatingregularly.Straintheentiremixturethroughastrainerlinedwithacoffeefilter,setoverabowl.BottletheinfusedCointreau;itshouldkeepindefinitely.
SpeedInfusionthroughPressure
There’sanotherveryfast,andverycool,waytoinfuseherbsintoliquor,andthat’sbypressurizingyouringredientswithacreamwhipper,suchastheiSiGourmetWhip.Theintensepressurecausedbythereleaseofgasfromanitrousoxidecartridgeforcestheflavorcompoundsoutofyourflavoringingredientandintotheliquorrapidly.Youcanuseanytypeoffreshherb,andyoucanevensimulatebarrel-agedcocktailsbyinfusingapremadecocktailwithwoodsmokingchipsmadefromwhiskeybarrelsfoundatbarbecuespecialtyretailers.(Formoreonbarrelaging,seepage132.)
ToInfuseUsingaCreamWhipper
Putyourflavoringingredientintothewhippedcreamcanister,addyourliquor,sealtheunit,andchargethecanisterwithnitrousoxide(N2O).
Givethecanisteragentleshake,waitfor1minuteorsoforsofterherbs,or30minutesforwoodchips,andthenslowlyventthegasfromthewhipperbygentlysqueezingtheleverwhiletheunitremainsupright.Strainyourliquorthroughafine-meshstrainerandfilterthroughacoffeefilterifnecessary.
InfusingwithSpices
Itcanbemuchtrickiertoinfusewithspices.Thegoalisasubtle,softflavor;youdon’twantyourrumtastinglikeacandleshopatthemall.Theamountofspiceyouneedandtheinfusingtimeitrequireswillvary,dependingonthesurfaceareaofthespiceandtheintensityandcharacterofitsflavor.Themoresurfacearea,themoreaccessibletheflavorcompoundsare,andsothefastertheinfusiontakesplace.Asanexample,ifyoudropawholenutmegintoabottleofrum,youmightbewaitingforayeartogetenoughnoticeablespiceflavor.Butifyouweretoadd1tspofgroundnutmeg,whichisessentiallyallsurfacearea,theflavorexchangemighttakeplacewithin24hours.
I’vefoundthatmostspiceshaveasimilarpotency,andsoIuseaboutthesameamount:1tspfreshlygroundspicetoone750-mlbottleofliquorasageneralruleofthumb.Butsomespicesarecrazyintense,suchascardamomandcloves.WiththeseIfindIneedmuchless,about1/8tspperbottle.
CHINESEFIVE-SPICEDDARKRUM
MAKESONE750-MLBOTTLEMakingyourownspicedrumgivesyougreatercontrolovertheflavorsinyourcocktailthansimplypurchasingspicedrumofftheshelf.ForawinteryversionofanislandcocktailIlovesomuch,IemployChinesefive-spicepowdertoinfusedarkrum—alittletrickIpickedupwhileworkingatBamboo.Tryusing2oz/60mlofyourspicedruminaDarkandStormy(page68)withthehouse-madeGingerBeer(page65).
1tspChinesefive-spicepowder
One750-mlbottledark80-proofrum,preferablyGosling’sBlackSealUsingasmallfunnel,spoonthespicepowderintotheneckoftherumbottleandreplacethecap.Shaketomixwell.Allowtoinfusefor24hours,agitatingregularly.
Straintherumthroughacoffeefilterandrebottle.Thiswillkeepforever.
NOCINO
MAKESABOUT2QT/2LNocino,likelimoncello,isanItalianliqueurandaninfusion.It’saninfusionofjustabouteverythingI’vetalkedaboutinthischapter:citrusfruit,spices,andnuts—greenwalnuts.(Afreshwalnutstraightfromthetreelookslikeasmalllime;thebestwaytofindthemistoprowlyourneighborhoodandlookinneighbors’yards,butsometimesyoucanfindthematafarmers’market).Yousteepthegreenwalnuts,lemons,cinnamon,cloves,andvanillainEverclearor100-proofvodka,alongwithsomewhitewineandsugar.It’straditionaltoleavethenocinotosteepinthesuninordertospeedtheprocess,soabackporchorpatioisperfect;shakeeveryfewdays.Youcouldprobablygetgoodresultsindoors,aswell,butitfeelsmoreItaliantoputthejaroutdoors.
NocinoistraditionallymadeonthedayofSt.John’sFeast,June24,whichiswhenthewalnutsshouldberipebutstillgreen;theinfusionshouldbereadytostrainandfilterforChristmaspresents.Nocinoisquitesweet,butlesssothanlimoncello,andmuchmorecomplex,withlayersofspice,nuts,andafaintbitterness.It’sanicewintersipperandisgreatwithdessertsandonicecream.30fresh(stillsoft)greenwalnuts,quartered(podandall)One750-mlbottle100-proofvodkaorgrainalcohol,suchasEverclearOne750-mlbottleunoakedwhitewine,suchasPinotGrisorSauvignonBlanc2cups/400ggranulatedsugarZestof1lemon3cinnamonsticks
20wholecloves
1greencardamompod,crushedCombinethewalnuts,vodka,whitewine,sugar,lemonzest,cinnamonsticks,cloves,andcardamompodina1-gal/3.8-Lglassjarwithatight-fittinglid.Lettheinfusionsitinawindowthatreceivesasmuch
directsunlightaspossibleforabout5months,shakingiteveryday.After5months,starttasting.Whentheflavorisdeepandcomplex,it’stimetobottle.
Strainthenocinointoalargecontainerthroughacolanderfirsttoremovethelargeingredients;thenstrainagainthroughacoffeefilterorasuper-fine-meshstrainerseveraltimes,untilmostofthesedimentisgone.Letthestrainednocinositinacleanbottleforatleastadaysothatanyleftoversedimentwillsettletothebottom,andthencarefullypouritoffintoyourchoiceofdecorativebottles.Nocinokeepsforalongtime,atleast4years.
LIMONCELLO
MAKESABOUT2QT/2LInrecentyears,house-infusedliqueurshavebecomewidelypopular,especiallythoseinthe“cello”family.Limoncello—madefromlemons—isthemostpopular,butothercitruscellos(pronouncedlikethemusicalinstrument),suchastangerineandbloodorange,areshowinguponbarmenusandasholidaygiftsfromcraftyfriends.
Theprocessconsistsofinfusinggrainalcoholorhigh-proofvodkawithcitruszestforabout3months,andthenmixingwithsimplesyrupforsweetness.TheItaliansservelimoncelloasadigestif,traditionallyinasmallchilledceramiccup,butitshowsupincocktailsandevendesserts.Cellosareoftenoversweetened;Iprefertousetheminmoderation.
15lemons
Two750-mlbottles100-proofvodka
4cups/800gsugar
5cups/1.2Lwater
Washthelemonswellunderrunninghotwaterandpatdry.Peelthezestfromthelemonsinlong,widestrips.
Combinethelemonpeelsand1bottleofvodkaina1-gal/3.8-Lglassjarwithalid.Coverthejarandstoreitatroomtemperature,awayfromlight,forabout6weeks.Givethejaraswirleveryfewdays.
Afterthe6weeks,makeasugarsyrup.Combinethesugarandwaterinamediumsaucepan.Bringtoaboilandletthesyrupcontinueboilingfor5minutes.Letcool,andthenaddittothelimoncello
mixture,alongwiththesecondbottleofvodka.Coverthejarandinfuseforanother5to6weeks,swirlingthejarafewtimesduringthisperiod.
Strainthelimoncellothroughafine-meshstrainerintoclean,decorativebottles;discardthelemonzest.Limoncellotastesbestwhenverycold,sostoreyourbottleinthefreezer;itshouldbegoodforatleastayear.
WOODINFUSIONS,A.K.A.BARRELAGINGBarrelagingisessentiallylittlemorethaninfusingalcoholwithwood,aprocessthathasbeenpartofthebeverageworldforcenturies.Wines,spirits,andevenbeerstakeonsomecharacteristicsoftheoakbarrelsthey’restoredin.Byputtingcocktailsintooakbarrels,we’retakingadvantageoftwoprocesses:usingthealcoholasasolventtowashthecaramelizedsugars,vanillin,andotherorganiccompoundsoutofthewood,aswellasexposingthecocktailstoasmallamountofair,whichwillslowlyoxidizethedrinkovertime.
In2009,ImetTonyConigliaroathisbar(“thebarwithnoname”)at69ColebrookeRow,inLondon.TonyservedmeaManhattanthathe’dbeenaginginaglassbottleforfiveyears.Thecocktail’sflavorsweremoreintegrated,softer,andmoredelicate.IrememberedanoakbarrelI’dbeenseasoningwithMadeirawinebackhome,andimmediatelysetouttoexpandonTony’sexperimentuponmyreturn.Almostovernight,barsallovertheworldbegantheirownbarrel-agedcocktailprograms.
Barrelagingacocktailmadewithwine-basedingredients,suchassherryorvermouth,oxidizesthecocktailslightly.Duringthisprocess,smallamountsofethyleneareconverted,viainteractionwithair,toacetaldehyde,contributingflavorsofnut,mushroom,grass,andapple.Drinksmadewithwine-basedingredientsarealsolowerinalcoholandhigherinacidityandaremoreefficientatextractingacompoundknownashemicellulose.Foundinplantmatter(suchaswood),hemicelluoseisbelievedtobreakdowntherougheredgesfoundinspirits,resultingina“softer”drink.
SmallbarrelscanbepurchasedforverylittleovertheInternet,thoughIdorecommendbreakinginunusedoakbarrelsforsometimewithinexpensivesherrytoflavorandseasonthewood.Herearesomeothertipsforagingcocktailsinoak:
AgingCocktailsDo’sandDon’ts
DO DON’T
checkyourcocktailregularlybyopeningthebarrelandextractingsamples(Iemployaturkeybasterdedicatedsolelytothispurpose).
leaveyourcocktailinabarrelfortoolong,asitcanresultintheextractionoftoomuchhemicellulose,whichisfoundinoak,andleadtoaflabbycocktail.
becarefulaboutselectingyourchoiceofcocktailtoage.Spirit-drivencocktailsare,ofcourse,anaturalchoiceforaging,asarecocktailsthatincludeawine-basedingredient,suchasvermouthorsherry.
agecocktailsthatcontainingredientssuchasfreshcitrus,eggwhites,orcream,astheyarepronetospoilageandcanleadtocontamination.
choosecocktailsmadewithspiritsthathavehadlittletonooakaging.Lighter,unagedspiritssuchaswhitewhiskey,gin,vodka,unagedrum,andtequilafarethebestwithtimespentinanoakbarrel,particularlyonethathasbeenpreviouslyusedtoagewhiskey.
asageneralrule,agecocktailsmadefromoak-agedspirits,asthiswillminimizetheeffectoftheoakagingandprovideyouwithamuchlessstrikingrenditionthanyouwouldgetwithunagedspirits.
TINCTURESTincturesaresimilartoinfusions,butonamuchmoreconcentratedscale.Wherewemightuse2oz/60mlofaninfusedvodkainacocktail,we’duseonlyadashordropofatincture.Iliketothinkofatinctureasaverysmall,veryportablewaytoaddflavortoadrink.Infact,Ioftencarryafewofmyfavoritetincturesindropperbottlespackedinasmallzipperedbaginmybarkit.
Sowhyatinctureandnotaninfusedliquor?Well,here’soneexample:IfIhaveawholefifth(750ml)ofsomethingveryspecific,like,say,clove-infusedvodka,Icanonlymakethosecocktailsthatcallforclove-infusedvodka,andtherearen’tthatmany.ButifIhaveasmallbottleofclovetincture,Icanmakeclove-flavoreddrinksusinganybasespiritonmyshelf.It’sinfinitelymoreversatile,plusitsavesspaceandmoney—Idon’tneedtocommitalotofresourcestoclove,sincecloveisaflavorIcareverylittleabout.
Becausethepurposeofatinctureistoaddflavorwithoutvolume,it’smadefromintenselyflavoredingredients,includingsomeherbs,spices,citruspeel,chiles,androots—sassafras,forexample.Wedon’tmakeblueberrytincture,becauseblueberriesjustdon’thavetheintensityweneed.
Thewayyougetthatintensityintothetinctureisthroughcontrollingtheamountoftheflavoringagentandthelengthofsteepingtime.Inotherwords,youcanaddalargeamountofingredientstoyouralcohol,whichcangetexpensive,oryoucanleaveyourmixturetosteepforalongtime—butthatrequirespatience.
Tospeeduptheprocesswhilekeepingiteconomical,Iuseamethodsimilartotheoneformakingspiceinfusions(seepage127):Igrindthefreshingredientmyself,addittothealcohol,anditletsteepfor1weekorso—orinsomecases,forevenlesstime.Ialwaysmonitortheflavordevelopmentbyfrequenttastings,andImakesuretogiveitagoodshakewheneverIpassby,asthattinyvolumeofspicetendstosettleatthebottomofthebottle.
CHOOSINGALCOHOLSFORTINCTURES
Thehigherthealcoholcontent,themoreeffectivethetincturingprocess.A100-proofvodkadoesthejobperfectly,andyoucanfinditjustaboutanywhere.Don’tbetemptedtomakeatinctureusinganythinglessthanabout80-proofspirits,however,becauseatalowerstrength,therearetoomanywatermoleculesbondingwiththealcoholmolecules,andtheyblocktheabilityofthealcoholtoreleasetheflavorcompoundsfromtheingredient.
HowtoMakeaTincture
TheratioIuseformytinctures,byweight,is1partflavoringagentto4partsalcohol.Themethodissimilartotheotherswe’vediscussedinthischapter,butyou’llprobablybemakingasmallerquantity,somethingcloserto8oz/240mlatatime.
1.Measureyourspiceandalcoholanduse1partspiceorherbto4partsspirit,inthequantitiesyoudesire.
2.Finelyminceyourherbs,orgrindyourspiceorotherdriedflavoringinaspicegrinderorinamortarwithapestle,untilpowdery,oratleastquitegranular.
3.Putyourtincturingingredientintoacleancanningjar,andaddyouralcohol.
4.Leavefor1weekawayfromdirectsunlight,gentlyagitatingthejaraboutonceaday.
5.Strainyourtincturethroughacoffeefilterandstoreincleandropperbottles,whichyouhavelabeled,tomakethetinctureeasytoadminister.(Youcanfindeyedropperbottlesatmostcontainerstoresandatmanyonlinesources.)
CINNAMONTINCTURE
CinnamonisoneofthoseflavorsIliketousemainlyinthefall,andalwayssparingly.SoIkeepasmalldropperbottleofcinnamontinctureatthebarandathometoeasilyturnjustaboutanycocktailintosomethingseasonal.
MAKESABOUT6OZ/180ML
About2sticksCeylonsoft-stickcinnamon1cup/240ml100-proofvodkaGrindthecinnamoninaspicegrinderorwithamortarandpestle.Inasmallcanningjar,combinethevodkaandcinnamon.Coverandshaketocombine.Letsitfor1week,shakingoccasionallytoagitate.Strainthroughacoffeefilterandstoreinalabeleddropperbottle.Thiskeepsforever.
AUTUMNLEAVES
WecameupwiththisvariationontheclassicNewOrleanscocktailtheVieuxCarréasanautumnalofferingatmybar.Thedrinkwassopopularwhenitdebutedonourmenufiveyearsagothatit’sstillfrequentlyrequestedbyname.
MAKES1DRINK
3/4oz/22.5mlryewhiskey3/4oz/22.5mlapplebrandy3/4oz/22.5mlsweetvermouth1/4oz/7.5mlStregaliqueur1dashCinnamonTincture(facingpage)Icecubes
1orangepeelforgarnish
CHILLEDSMALLROCKSGLASS
Combinetheryewhiskey,applebrandy,vermouth,Stregaliqueur,andcinnamontinctureinamixingglass.Addicecubesandstiruntilchilled.Strainintotherocksglassfilledwithmoreicecubes.Twisttheorangepeeloverthesurfaceofthecocktail,rubtherimoftheglasswiththepeel,andthendropinthedrinktoserve.
BITTERSWhatstartedoutmorethan200yearsagoasacategoryofmedicinesisnowoneofthemosttalked-aboutandhotlydebatedsubjectsinbartending.Itseemslikeeveryself-describedcocktailgeekthesedayscraftshisorherownlibraryofbittersforuseathomeandbehindthebar.
BorninEuropeandembracedbyAmerica,bitterswereoriginallydevelopedascure-allsforavarietyofailments,mainlystomach.Infact,aneighteenth-centuryEnglishhangovercurecomposedofStoughton’sbittersandfortifiedwinefromtheCanaryIslandsmayhavebeenoneoftheearliestpredecessorsofthecocktail.
Bittersarehavingarenaissancerightnow.Somebartendersareevenusingbittersasthebasespiritindrinks,withsurprisinglybeautifulresults.MyfriendGiuseppeGonzalez,aNewYorkbartender,islegendaryforadrinkknownasaTrinidadsour,whichcallsforawhole1oz/30mlofAngosturabitters,whilebartendersKirkEstopinalandMaksPazuniak,atCure,inNewOrleans,makeadrinkcalledthegunshopfizz,withawhopping2oz/60mlofPeychaud’s.
Simplyput,bittersarenothingmorethanatincture,orcombinationoftinctures,withtheadditionofabitteringagent—typicallyabitterrootorbark.Iliketothinkofthemasthesaltandpepperofcocktails.Whiletheydobringtheirownflavortotheparty,theirmaineffectistoenhancealltheflavorsofthedrink,makingeverythingtasteabitmorelikeitself.Iftheultimategoalisadrinkwithdepthandcomplexity,thebittersIreachforarepotentanddeeplybitter.
ALCOHOLTHAT’STOOHARDTODRINK?
Ifbittersarenothingmorethanblendedandbitteredtinctures,andtinctureshavehigh-proofalcoholastheirbase,thenwhyarebitterssometimessoldinplaceswhereliquorsalesareprohibited?Itturnsoutthateventhegovernmentbelievesthatsomeboozeisjusttoodifficulttodrinkonitsown.TheAlcoholandTobaccoTaxandTradeBureau,orTTB,hasdeemedbitters“nonpotable”andthereforenotaproblemtosell,eventoaminor.Theflavorissostrongandbitterthatit’sinconceivablethatsomeonecoulddrinkenoughtogetintoxicated.
AuthorandbarexpertGaryReganmanagedtomakeabittersthatcrossedthelinefromunpalatabletoquaffable,atleastaccordingtotheTTB.TheydeemedhisRegan’sOrangeBittersNo.5toopotentiallydrinkable,andpreventeditfrombeingsold.FortunatelyforGary,twelveformulationslaterhewasrewardedwithastampofapprovalforaversionlesspalatableonitsown,andRegan’sOrangeBittersNo.6wasabletomakeitontostoreshelves.
COMMERCIALBITTERS
BackwhenIwasfirstgettingstartedinthebusiness,therewasonedustybottleofbittershiddenbehindeverybar,anditwasinconceivablethatadaywouldcomewhenaguestwouldaskwhatbitterswereavailablebeforedecidingonadrink.Now,youcanstockyourbarwithanewbottleofbitterseveryweek,buttherereallyareonlythreethatyou’llneedinordertomakethevastmajorityofclassiccocktails:Angostura,Peychaud’s,andorangebitters.
AngosturaBitters
Thesearethego-tobitters,thebottlethatisfoundineverybar,grocerystore,liquorstore,andhomeliquorcabinet.Unmistakable,withitsdistinctiveoversizepaperlabeloftenscrunchedaroundtheneck,Angosturabittershavebeenaroundsincetheearly1800s.Angosturaispinkish-purpleincolorwithaflavorprofilethatcanbebestdescribedaspotent,hintingatcinnamonandherbs.
Thebittershavearichhistory.JohannGottliebBenjaminSiegertwasaGermandoctorwhoservedatthebattleofWaterloobeforeheadingtoVenezuela,wherehebecameasurgeongeneralinSimónBolívar’sarmy.Siegertexperimentedwithlocalherbs,roots,botanicals,andbarkstodevelopatonictohelpthetroopswithallmannerofdigestiveailments.
Peychaud’sBitters
Theseweredevelopedinthe1830sbyAntoineAmédéePeychaud,aHaitianpharmacistlivinginNewOrleans.Peychaud’sisusedintheverypopularSazeraccocktail,adrinkthathaskeptPeychaud’sprominent.
Itsflavorisslightlyfloral,withasubtlehintofaniseandnotesofcherryandspice.Itsbrightredcolorwillgiveyourcocktailsabeautifulrosyhue.
OrangeBitters
Orangebittersare,asyoumightguess,atinctureoforangepeelandotherspicesblendedwithbitterbarksandroots.Longextinct,youcanfindquiteafewcommercialbrandsonthemarketthesedays,thoughnosinglebrandstandsasthequintessentialorangebitters.
WhenI’mnotmakingmyown(seepage138),IoftenadoptatrickfavoredbyNewYorkbartenderscalledthefifty-fifty,inwhichequalpartsFeeBrothersandRegan’sorangebittersaremixedtogethertotakeadvantageofthebestqualitiesofeach.
HOUSEORANGEBITTERS
Mostbittersrecipesyou’llseeouttherecallforneutralspirits,suchasEverclear,butIprefertouseWrayandNephewoverproofwhiterumasthebaseformyorangebitters.ItnotonlyprovidesthenecessaryhighproofI’mlookingforbutalsocontributesitsownsubtleflavorcharacteristics,unlikeflavorlessgrainalcohol.
Formaximumflavor,youcanmakeyourowndriedorangepeelbygratingorangeswithaMicroplaneanddryingthegratedpeelonaparchmentpaper–linedbakingsheetinalowoven.Oryoucanfindareputablespicetraderwhoseproductyoutrustandusepre-driedpeel.Aftermakingnearlyahundredbatchesofdriedgratedorangepeelovertheyears,InowjustbuyitfromaplaceIlike.
MAKESONE750-MLBOTTLE
One750-mlbottleoverproofwhiterum,preferablyWrayandNephew3oz/85gdriedgratedorangepeel
2wholecardamompods,crushed
1/2tspcarawayseeds,crushed
11/2tspcorianderseeds,crushed13/4oz/50ml2:1Demerarasyrup(seepage78)
Combinetherum,orangepeel,cardamompods,carawayseeds,andcorianderseedsinacleancanningjar.Leavefor1week,awayfromdirectsunlight,gentlyagitatingaboutonceaday.
AddtheDemerarasyrupandletsitfor1weekmore,againagitatingdaily.
Strainthemixturethroughacoffeefilterandstoreinclean,labeleddropperbottles.Thebitterswillkeepindefinitely.
REVOLVER
ByJonSanter
Myfirstencounterwiththerevolverwentlikethis:Afavoriteregularofoursfrequentlytraveledforbusiness,andheenjoyedagoodcocktailwhereverhewent.Onenighthecameinandtoldusaboutabartenderhe’drecentlybecomeenamoredwithonhislatesttriptoSanFrancisco:JonSanter.
JonSanterisabartender’sbartender,andsomethingofalegendamongthoseintheknow.HenowownsThePrizefighterinEmeryville,California,butbeforethatheworkedinbarsalloverSanFranciscoforyears.ItwaswhileJonwasworkingatBourbon&Branchthatourregularenjoyedhiscocktail,therevolver.
Thedrinkwasdescribedtomebyourman,andwhileItriedmybesttoreplicateitusinghisinstructions,heleftunsatisfied.Asluckwouldhaveit,thedrinkappearedinaWallStreetJournalarticlethefollowingweek,soIcribbedtherecipeandsurprisedourregularwithwhatIthoughtwasaperfectversionofhisnewfavoritedrink.Althoughhecouldn’tputhisfingeronwhy,hestillwasn’tsatisfiedwithmyversionoftherevolver.
LaterthatyearIfoundmyselfbartendingalongsideJonatapartyinLondon,andeventuallyIgotaroundtoaskinghimwhatthesecrettothedrinkwas.Asitturnedout,therecipeinthenewspaperwasslightlyoff.Iwasabletoreturnhomeandsurpriseoneofourfavoriteguestswithagoodstoryandanevenbettercocktail,andJonandIhavebeenclosefriendseversince.
MAKES1DRINK
2oz/60mldry,spicybourbon1/2oz/15mlcoffeeliqueur2dashesHouseOrangeBitters(page138)Icecubes
1orangepeelforgarnish
CHILLEDNICKANDNORAGLASS
Combinethebourbon,coffeeliquer,andHouseOrangeBittersinamixingglass.Addicecubesandstiruntilchilled(seepage206).
StrainintothechilledNickandNoraglass.Usingtheorangepeel,expressflamedorangeoil(seepage277)overthesurfaceofthedrink.Droptheorangepeelintothedrinktoserve.
CHAPTERNO7
DAIRY&EGGS
ADDINGALAYEROFTEXTURETHROUGHFOAMANDFAT
Ifitweren’tforwhoeverfirstuseddairyincocktails,theworldverywellmightbewithoutguilty-pleasuredrinks.Andthatwouldmakemeverysad,becauseIdon’twanttoliveinaworldwithoutbrandyAlexandersandWhiteRussians.There’sachainrestaurantaroundhere,whichshallgounnamed,thatservestheseboozymilkshakesfullofKahlúaandOreocookiesandstuff.They’resogoodthataboutonceayearIcan’tcontrolmyurgesandIhavetodriveouttothenearestmalltohaveone.
Myparentslearnedhowtodrinkatatimewhen“guilty-pleasurecocktails”weresimplyreferredtoascocktails.Whatwethinkoftodayasoverlysweet,fruity,orcreamyconcoctionswerethenormbackinthe’60sand’70s.Sexonthebeach.Screwdrivers.TheBahamamama,whateverthehellthatis.Andthentherewerethecreamydrinks.Piñacoladas(whichdon’tactuallycontainanycream,butarecreamyanyway.)WhiteRussians.Grasshoppers.TheB-52.
Ifyouwantedtorobmyparents’liquorcabinetin,say,themid-’80s,whenIwasinhighschool,youhadachoicetomake.Youcoulddrinkwhatyousawtheadultsdrinking,namelythingslikeIrishcreamandKahlúa,andruntheriskofthemnoticingsomeboozewasmissing.Oryoucould,asIwouldhavedoneifIwerethetypewho’dstealliquorfrommyparents,helpyourselftothemanybottlesofScotchthatsatbarelytouched,allthewhileenviousoftheforbidden:thosecreamy,fattening,caloric,guilty-pleasuredrinksmyparentsgottoenjoy.
Butrelegatingdairytotheworldoffatty,overlysweeteneddrinksminimizestheimportantrolethatdairyhasplayedincocktailssince,well,beforecocktailsasweknowthemwereinvented.Intheseventeenthcentury,amixtureofale,rum,sugar,andraweggswouldbeheatedwithahotpokerfromthefireplace;itwasawarmearlyprototypeofaneggnog.Adollopofeggwhiteshavebeenusedforwelloverahundredyearsbybartenderstolenddrinksacreamier,silkiermouthfeel.Those
classicNewOrleansbreakfastcocktails,theRamosginfizzandthebrandymilkpunch,arebalancedandlightenoughtobeconsumedoneventhemuggiestGulfCoastday.
Thewholepointisthatbartendershavebeguntoturnbacktheclockontheuseofdairyincocktails,andwe’veallrealizedthatthere’smoretomilk,cream,andeggsthansimplysweetenedvanillaorchocolatemilkshakes.Andsincewe’regoingtobedoingmorewithdairythansimplythrowingitintoablender,we’llneedtoknowathingortwoabouttheproductswe’rehandling.
CHOOSINGTHEBESTDAIRYPRODUCTSANDEGGSOfalltheingredientsyou’llusebehindthebar,dairyingredientsandeggsarethemostperishable.Theyneedtobechosenandhandledwithasmuchthought—andperhapsmorecare—thanyou’dgivetoanyrarespiritoresotericliqueur.
Withdairy,thebestwaytochooseprimeingredientsistobuyfromalocalfarm—directly,ifpossible,orthroughafarmers’marketoragoodgrocer.Theflavorofyourdrinkswillbemarkedlybetterwhenyouusedairyandeggsthathavebeenproducedinamoreresponsibleandintelligentway.Atthebar,weworkwithlocalfarmerstogetlargequantities.Forhome,IsimplypopinattheSaturdayfarmers’marketandpickupwhatIneedfortheweek.
EventhoughIadvocatelocalandhyperfresh,thereare,ofcourse,limits:wedon’teverserveraw(unpasteurized)dairyatabar,becausewedon’twanttotakethatkindofhealthriskwiththepublic.Butattheotherendofthespectrum,wealsoavoidultrapasteurizedhalf-and-halforcream.Oddlyenough,alotoftheorganicdairyonthemarketisultrapasteurized,whichjustmeansthatit’sbeenheatedtoahighertemperaturetokillmorebacteriaandextendtheshelf-life.(Ultrapasteurizationheatsthemilkto280°F/138°Cfortwoseconds;traditionalpasteurizationheatsthemilkto165°F/74°Cforfifteenseconds.)Butthehighertemperaturekillsnotonlymoreofthebacteriabutalsoalotoftheflavor,givingtheproductaflatter,lessfresh,andmore,well,cookedtaste,whichIdon’tlike.IfIhavetochoosebetweenorganicultrapasteurizedandanonorganicregularpasteurized,I’llchoosethelattereverytime.
CREAM
Whenyou’rehangingoutathome,perusingclassiccocktailrecipes(asIdo)inbooksandontheInternet,you’llnoticethattheyalmostalwayscallforcream.Butrealcreamisroughtoworkwithasaningredient;it’ssimplytooheavyandtoorichtoconsumeinacocktail,andthegreasymouthfeelinterfereswiththerestofthedrink.Iusehalf-and-halfwhenarecipecallsforcreamasanincorporatedingredient,andeverybartenderIknowdoesaswell.Savethecreamforwhipping,asagarnish,andgetthehighestfatcontentyoucanfind.
It’sgoodtoknowtherelativefatcontentsofthedifferenttypesofcreamandmilk,sothatyouunderstandwhat’sgoingintoyourcream-baseddrinksandmaketherightchoice.
DAIRYPRODUCT AVERAGEPERCENTAGEOFFAT
Heavycream 39%
Whippingcream 35%
Half-and-half 12%
Wholemilk 3.8%
ALEXANDERCOCKTAIL
Ifyoueverhavethegoodfortunetomeetmyfather,askhimtotellyouthestoryaboutthetimeheandhisbuddyHenryReynosohad,like,fifteenbrandyAlexanderseachatthebardowntheroadfromthecabinweownedbackinthe1980s.Mydadknowstwothingsforcertain,thefirstbeingthatbrandyAlexanderswillmakeyousickerthananythingyou’veeverhadinyourlife,andthesecondbeingthattheycomefromablenderfulloficecream.
AllIknowaboutthebrandyAlexanderisthatit’ssortofthesequeltoanevenolderdrinkcalledtheAlexandercocktail,whichfirstappearedsometimearound1915inNewYork,andismadewithequalpartsgin,darkcrèmedecacao,andcream.Ofcourse,Iusehalf-and-halfbecauseit’slighterthancream.It’salsolighterthanacartonofvanillaicecream,whichwasneverusedintheoriginalAlexanders.
MAKES1DRINK
1oz/30mlLondondrygin1oz/30mldarkcrèmedecacao1oz/30mlhalf-and-halfIcecubesFreshlygratednutmegforgarnishCHILLEDCOCKTAILGLASS
Combinethegin,crémedecacao,andhalf-and-halfinacocktailshakerfilledwithicecubesandshakefor10seconds.Doublestrainintothechilledcocktailglass(seepage219)andgarnishwithalittlefreshnutmegtoserve.
WhatDoestheSell-ByDateMeanonaCartonofCream?
Alldairyproductsarestampedwithsomethingcalledasell-bydate.Alotofpeoplethinkitmeansthecontentswillbegooduntilthatdate.Anicepromise,butonethat’snotreallytrue.Andit’sreallynofuntofindoutthehardway,trustme.
Thesell-bydatemeansthatiftheproductiskeptproperlychilledandunopened,itshouldbegoodforabout1weekafterthatdate(thestore“sellsby”andthenyoutakehomeandkeeplonger).Onceyouopenthatcartonorbottle,allbetsareoff,inthesensethattheproducercan’tcontrolwhatkindofbacteriamaybehasteningspoilage.Howlongyouleavethecartononthecounterinawarmroom,whethersomeonetakesaswigofmilkrightfromthecarton(asIusuallydo),ortowhattemperatureyourfridgeissetallfactorin.
Youcanassumethataproductwithadatethat’sfurtheroutwillbefresherthanonewithadateonlydaysaway,sobesuretopissoffyourgrocerandrummagearoundtheselections,lookingfortheonewiththelatestdate.Justrememberthatonceyou’veopenedit,it’suptoyoutostoreitoptimallytokeepitfresh.Openedmilkproductsshouldbegoodfor7to10days.
HOWTOSTORECREAM
Tokeepyourcreamandhalf-and-halffreefrombacteriaandpreserveflavorandfreshness,keepthemcold.Bacteriatendstogrowaroundthecartonspoutandotheroxygen-accessiblespots.Transferringthecreamtoacleanplasticsqueezebottle,labeledwiththedate,minimizesthatpotentialandmakesthecreameasytopourandmeasure.
HOWTOWHIPCREAM
Idouseactualcream,ratherthanhalf-and-half,whenIwantitwhippedforgarnishingacocktail.Togarnishadrinkproperlywithwhippedcream,youneedtowhipittoorder.Onceagain,you’vegotafewoptions.
UsingaCreamWhipper
Whiletheequipmentisn’tnecessarilycheap,it’scertainlytheeasiestoption.Youfillthecanisterwithcoldcream,chargeitwithnitrousoxide,giveitashake,andpressthelevertodeliverwhippedcream.Youcanloadit,keepitinthefridge,andhaveitatthereadywheneveryouneedit;justgrab,shake,andgo.(It’sagoodideatowritethedatewhenyouaddedthecreamonapieceofmaskingtapeandstickitonthesideofthecanister.)Thebiggestdrawback—asidefromthecost—isthetextureofthecream:firmandtight,almostoverwhipped.Creamwhippedtothatconsistencymightlookniceasaswirlonamochaorapieceofpie,butitdoesn’tincorporatewellintoacocktail;itjustsitsontopandrequiresastrawtoaccessthedrinkbeneath.
WhippingCreamManually
Thisoptionisapainintheass,butitproducesabetterwhippedcreamforuseincocktails.Youpoursomecoldcreamintoasmallstainless-steelbowl,takeawhisk,andwhipuntilthecreamisthickenedandhasmorevolumebutisn’tyetatthestagewhereitholdsitsownshape.Don’tbetemptedtowhipuntilyouseebillowypeaks—that’stoomuch.Creamthat’sonlythickened,ratherthanwhippedsoitholdspeaks,willfloatnicelyonthesurfaceofacocktail,yetwilleasilyincorporateintothedrinkasit’ssippedwithouttheneedforastraw.Thecreamprovidesasortofcoolpillowthroughwhichahotcoffeecocktailissipped.
Youhavealotofcontrolovertextureandconsistencywiththishand-whippedmethod,butit’sproblematicinaservicesituationforseveralreasons:
Thevolumeinthecreamdoesn’tlastforever,meaningyouwillneedtorewhipbeforeserving.
Inordertopreventthewhippedcreamfromdryingoutandpickingupflavors,itneedstobecoveredinplasticwrap.
Itneedstoberefrigeratedbetweenusestopreventspoilage.
Andfinally,abowlandwhisktakeuppreciousspacebehindthebarandinthefridge.
TheMasonJarMethod
Thebestoptionistheonewe’veperfectedatmybar:Takeacanningjar,fillithalfwaywithcream,seal,andshakehardfor15seconds.Pourtheamountyouneeddirectlyontoyourcocktail.What’sleftoverinthejargoesrightbackintothefridge,whereit’sreadyforyoutograbforthenextdrink.There’snoneedformessywhisksorbowls,andyourcreamisalreadyinthedispensingvessel.
Knowinghowmuchtoshakethecreamiskey.Theruleofthumbistoshakeuntilthevolumehasincreasedbyabouthalf.Soifyoustartwith8oz/240mlofcream,youwanttoshakeuntilyouhave12oz/360ml.Usingajarthathassomecalibrationsontheside—mostcanningjarsdo—willhelpyoueyeballthevolumelevels.
IRISHCOFFEE
EveryyearwhenIvisitSanFrancisco,Iperformalittleritual.Idropmybagsatthehotel,walkdownthestreet,andcatchthestreetcarforarideoverthehillstotheBuenaVistaCafeforacoupleofIrishcoffees.TheIrishcoffeewasinventedattheBuenaVista,andwhileI’msuretheydomakeplentyofotherdrinkswell,I’veneverorderedanythingelse.Judgingbywhattheotherguestsaredrinking,neitherdoesanyoneelse.There’salwaysalineofglassesdownthebar,andthebartendercranksthemoutinassembly-linefashionandfinishesthemoffwithametaltinfullofthemostdelicatecream,lightlywhippedinamilkshakemachinetojusttherightconsistency.
IfyouwanttomakeanIrishcoffeeaswellastheydoattheBuenaVista,youcandoitwithoutthemilkshakemachine.Simplyshakethecreaminacanningjar,usingthemethoddescribedonpage148.
You’llneedtherightglasswaretobetrulyauthentic:ArealIrishcoffeeisservedonlyina6-oz/180-mlLibbeyGeorgianIrishCoffeeglass,modelnumber8054.TheglasscanbepurchaseddirectlyfromLibbey’swebsite(Retail.libbey.com),butifyoudon’twanttobotherwiththat,youcanuseasmall6-oz/180-mlwineglassinstead.Justknowthatit’sapointofprideforbartenderstoservethisoneintheproperglass,andit’sajoytotakeadrinkfromit.
MAKES1DRINK
11/2oz/45mlIrishwhiskey
2tsp/10ml2:1brownsugarsyrup(seepage78)3oz/90mlhotfreshlybrewedcoffee
Whippedcream(seepage148)forgarnish
IRISHCOFFEEGLASS
Heattheglasswithhotwater.Oncetheglassiswarmenough,emptythecontentsandaddthewhiskeyandbrownsugarsyrup.Stirinthehotcoffee.Topwithwhippedcreamandserve(withoutastraw).
EGGSThedifferenceinflavorbetweenwhatIcallasupermarketeggandafreshlocaleggisremarkable.Inpart,it’samatterofactualfreshness,withafarmers’marketeggbeingprobablyafewdaysoldatmost,whileasupermarketeggcanbe,underU.S.DepartmentofAgriculture(USDA)regulations,upto5weeksoldwhenyoubuyit.(Thesell-bydatemustbenolaterthan30daysaftertheeggsarepacked,andeggsmustbepackednomorethan7daysaftertheywerelaid.)Butthequalityofthefeed,typeofchicken,andotherhandlingissuesalsoaffecttheflavorandperformanceoftheegg.
MEASURINGEGGS
Eachindividualegginacartonofeggslabeled“large”doesn’tneedtomeettheUSDA’scriteriaforalargeegg;thewholedozenmustmeetastandardweight.Inonecartonyoucouldhavesomeundersizeandsomeoversize.Andmostfarmers’marketeggsaren’tgradedbysizeatall.
Lookingagainatclassiccocktailrecipes,you’lloftenseetheauthorcallfor“thewhiteof1egg”ratherthananactualmeasurement.Keepinmindthateggsweremuchsmallerahundredyearsagothantheyaretoday,sowhenyouencounterarecipecallingfor1eggwhite,planonusingavolumeof1/2oz/15ml,aswedoatmybar.Withinatypicalegg,you’llhavetwiceasmuchwhiteasyolk.Soinalargeegg,thevolumeofthewhitewillaveragejustover1oz/30mlandtheyolkjustover1/2oz/15ml.
Aswithrawmilkandcream,rawunpasteurizedeggs(mostareunpasteurized)cancarryasmallriskofbacteria—inthecaseofeggs,salmonella.Thebestwaytoavoidhavinganyproblemsistobeexquisitelysanitarywhenpreparing,handling,andstoringeggs.Oncethey’reoutoftheshell,alwayskeepthemrefrigerated.AndwhileI’veeatenraweggscountlesstimesandincountlessformsandhavenevergottensick,ifyoudohaveacompromisedimmunesystem,youmightwanttoavoidraw-eggcocktails.
CRACKINGEGGS
Whetheryoucrackyoureggbyrappingitsharplyontheedgeofabowl,oruseJacquesPépin’smethodoftappingtheeggflatonthecounter(heassertsthesharpedgewillforceshellintotheegg,whiletheflatsurfacejustcreatesabreachintheshellforyoutopullapart),it’saprettysimpleprocedure,andonethatyou’vedoneahundredtimeswithoutgettinganyshellintheegg.Butthe101sttime,youmightnotbesolucky.Atinybitofshellcanruinadrink,andreallyruinalargebatchofeggs.Thefoolproofwaytoavoidgettingshellinyoureggistocracktheeggintoasmallbowlfirst,verifythatthere’snoshell,anddumpitintoanyothereggs,thedrink,orwhateverthedestinationis.
WHOLEEGGCOCKTAILS
Themoststraightforwardegg-basedcocktailiscalledaflip.Asthatseventeenth-centurymixtureofale,rum,sugar,andraweggsheatedwithahotpokerfromthefireplaceevolved,itemergedinJerryThomas’sTheBar-Tender’sGuide(1862)asacoldcocktailwithoutthealeandfeaturingamyriadofbasespiritoptionssuchasbrandy,rum,gin,orevenportwine.
Thekeytoallegg-basedcocktailsisgettingtheeggstoaconsistencythatallowsyoutocombinethemwithotheringredients,sobeatingthemwellbeforeusingtheminacocktailisimportant.ItypicallyuseasmallwhiskandametalbowlwhenI’mpreparingabigbatchofwholeeggsoreggwhites,orsimplymybarspooninashakertinwhenI’mmakingasingle-servingeggcocktail.
CYNARFLIP
ByBenSandrof
MyfriendBenSandrofisoneofthosebartenderswhopushestheboundaries.HelivesinBostonandhashelpedrunsomeofthemostprogressivebarprogramsinthecountry.AfewyearsagohewasmakingasortoficecreamwithFernet-Branca,averypowerfulItalianbitter,whentheideastruckhimtotrymakingaflipwithCynar,anotherItalianamaro,madefromartichokes.ItwasthefirsttimeI’deverheardofsuchathing,andI’vebeenmakingthemwithgreatsuccesseversince.
MAKES1DRINK
1egg
2oz/60mlCynar
2tsp/10ml2:1simplesyrup(seepage78)Icecubes
FeeBrothersWhiskeyBarrel–AgedbittersforgarnishCHILLEDCOUPEGLASS
Puttheeggintothecocktailshaker,makingsurenoshellcamealong.Then,usingyourbarspoon,breakuptheyolk,andwhiptheeggvigorouslytoloosenupthewhites.
AddtheCynarandsimplesyrup,filltheshakerwithicecubes,andshake.Strainintothechilledcocktailcoupe.Usinganeye-dropper,dropbittersintothefoamontopofthedrinkanddragatoothpickthroughthebitterstogarnishbeforeserving.
CLYDECOMMONEGGNOG
MAKESABOUT1GL/3.8L
Eggnogisessentiallyaflip,withtheadditionofcream(readthatashalf-and-half,remember?).Whileyoucantechnicallymakeeggnogasyouwouldtheflip(seepage153),adding2oz/60mlofcreamtothemix,Ifindthateggnogisbestsharedwithfriends,anditalsolendsitselftoagingforadayorsointhefridge.
Therefore,Ialwaysmakemyeggnoginalargebatchandtradeinmyshakerandbarspoonforablender.Yousimplyblendtheeggsforafewsecondsonlowspeed,whichwillgettheconsistencyfluidenoughtoplaywellwiththeotheringredientsasyoucontinuetobuildyourcocktail.
Theeggnogweserveatmybar,ClydeCommon,inPortland,Oregon,hasbeenimmenselypopularforyears.Thecombinationofsweetañejotequilawithdryamontilladosherryisagorgeouspairing.
12largeeggs
21/4cups/450gsuperfinesugar12oz/360mlañejotequila15oz/450mlamontilladosherry36oz/lLwholemilk
24oz/720mlheavycreamFreshlygratednutmegforgarnishSMALLCHILLEDPUNCHGLASSES
Inablenderorstandmixeronlowspeed,beattheeggsuntilsmooth.Slowlyaddthesugarandblendorbeatuntilallofitisincorporated.Slowlyaddthetequila,sherry,milk,andcream.Refrigerateovernightandserveinsmallchilledpunchglasses.Dustwithfreshnutmegbeforeserving.
EGG-WHITECOCKTAILS
Bartenderslearnedlongagothattheycouldcreateacreamymouthfeelinacocktail,withouttheflavorandfattyfeelofcream,simplybyaddingadollopofwhippedeggwhite.Butdon’tlistentomustachioedspeakeasymixologistswhomightbeinclinedtotellyouthattheoriginalwhiskeysourrecipecalledforeggwhites—itdidn’t.Thewhitedoesgivethedrinkawonderfultexture,however.
HOWTOSEPARATEANEGG
You’vegotthreeoptionsforseparatingthewhitefromtheyolk,fromthesimplesttothemostculinary.
TheShellMethod
Thismethodusestheshellitselfastheseparatingtool,andisquickerandmorefoolproofthanthetwomethodsthatfollow,butittakessomepracticetogetitright.Cracktheeggsharplyinthecenter,gentlyinsertboththumbs,andprytheshellapartoverasmallbowltocatchthewhite.Asyoupullaparttheeggshell,simultaneouslyinverttheeggsotheeggshellhalvesareopen-sideup,oneineachhand.Theeggwillbeinonehalf,andthewhitewillbespillingoveritssidesandintothebowl.
Tipthefullhalftoallowmoreofthewhitetobegindrippingfromtheshellintothebowl.Usetheotherhalftocatchtheyolkasitstartstoslideoutaswell.Repeattheprocess,lettingasmuchofthewhiteaspossiblefallintothebowl,butalwayscatchingtheyolkbeforeitfalls.
Becarefulnottolettheedgeoftheshellpiercetheyolk.Thewhiteswon’tfoamproperlyifthey’recontaminatedwithanytypeoffat,suchaseggyolkorcream.Afterafewback-and-forths,thewhitewillbeinthebowlandtheyolkintheshell;saveitforanotheruseordiscardit.
TheHandMethod
Holdingtheegginyourdominanthand,crackitinthecenter,atthewidestpoint,sharplyonthecounterorontheedgeofabowl.Then,widenthecrackbypullingonehalfoftheshellwiththethumbandforefingerofyourdominanthandwhilegrippingtheotherhalfwithyourpalmandotherfingers.Youjustneedtoopenthetwohalveswideenoughfortheeggtofallout,intoyournondominanthand,whichisgentlycuppedoverabowltocatchtheegg.
Now,openthefingersofyour“catchinghand”abittolettheeggwhiteslidebetweenthem,intothebowl,keepingtheyolkinyourhand.Dumptheyolkintoasecondbowl,andrepeatifyouhavemoreeggs,orwashyourhandsifnot.Thismethodcanbeveryfastifyou’regoodatit,butitdoesmeanthatyourhandshavetobeimmaculatebeforeyoustart—notgreatifyouwearringsandsuch—andyou’llneedtotakeaquickbreaktowashyourhandsafterward,too.
TheToolMethod
Therearetoolsdesignedforseparatingeggs,buttheytakeupvaluablespace,haveonlyonepurpose,andarenotaseffectiveasthetwoothermethods.Onetoollookslikeashallowcupwithslotsaroundtherim.Youcracktheeggintoit,theyolksettlesintothecurvedbowl,andasyoutiltthecup,thewhiteslidesouttheslotsintoanothercatchbowl.
Theseconddesignlooksalittlelikeastrainer,butinsteadofmesh,youhavespiralwires.Youcracktheeggintothecenter,thewhiteslidesoutthroughthewires,andtheyolkiscapturedinthecenter.Sometimes.Istronglysuggestskippingthetoolsandusingoneofthepreviousmethods.
HOWTOPREPAREANDSTOREEGGWHITES
Eggwhitesaremucilaginous(superslippery)andresistbeingdividedormixed.Ifyou’veevertriedtoaddjusthalfaneggwhitetoarecipe,youknowwhatImean:youstarttoemptyalittlebitofthewhiteoutoftheshell,andbeforeyouknowittheentirewhiteslidesintoyourbowl.
Thatgloppinessistheworkofproteinsintheeggwhite(whitesare90percentwater,10percentproteins).Intheirnaturalstate,theproteinsarecurleduptightlyinlittleballs,withbondsholdingtheproteinstrandstogether.Asyouwhiskorotherwiseagitatethewhites,thoseproteinballsareslammedaround,andtheimpactloosensthebonds.Theballed-upproteinsbegintounfurlandformnewbondswithotherproteins,ratherthanwiththemselves.Thiscreatesaloosenetwork.Ifyoucontinuetoagitate,youbegintointroduceairbubblesintothenetwork.Theairiscapturedbytheproteins,andtheresultisfoamyorfluffywhites,dependingonhowfaryougo.
Beatthewhitesslightlytoloosenthemup;useyourbarspoonorasmallwhisk,dependingonhowmanywhitesyou’reworkingwith.Labelasmallsqueezebottlewiththedateandstoretheeggwhitesinthebottleinthefridge.Duringservice,youcankeepthewhitesinasmallhotelpanofice;youreallydoneedtopayattentiontoproperfoodhandlingmethodshere,sinceraweggsofanykindhavesomeriskassociatedwiththem(seepage152).Theywillkeepforabout1week.
HOWTOSHAKEANEGG-WHITECOCKTAIL
Drinkscontainingeggwhitesbenefitfromaninitialshakewithoutice—calledadryshake—whichwilldevelopathicker,morevoluptuousandstablefoam.ChadSolomon,formerbartenderatNewYork’sPeguClubandpartneratthebeverageconsultingcompanyCuffs&Buttons,haschampionedthetechnique,thoughbarhistorianshaverecentlyfoundreferencestothemethodgoingbackdecades.
Proteinswillstretchandunwindmoreeasily,aspreviouslydescribed,ifthey’regivensometimetoloosenupratherthanbeingrushedintotheprocess.Achefusuallywhipseggswhitesmoreslowlyatfirstandthenturnsupthespeedoncealightfoamhasformed.Thedryshakeaccomplishesthisforthebartender.
Thedryshakealsojustallowsmoretotaltimeforyoutoshakethewhites—onceyouaddice,you’relimitedastohowmuchshakingyoucandobecauseyoucan’triskoverdilutingthedrinkwithmeltingice.Soshakefirsttogetagoodfoamestablished,andthencontinuewithice,whichwillcreateevenmoreagitationandfoam.
Anotherwaytojump-startagoodfoamistoprefroththewhitesusingasmallelectricwhipper,suchastheAerolatte,intendedforwhippingmilkforespressodrinks,butperfectasanadjunctbartool.
SomebartenderswillremovethespringfromaspareHawthornestrainer(seepage219)andtossitintheshakerwiththedrinkforevengreaterwhippingpower,thoughIuseMr.Solomon’sdryshakewithfantasticresults.Ialsodon’thavetodealwithasteelspringcoveredinstickyegg-whitecocktailwhenI’mdone,soI’vegotthatgoingforme.
SealingaBostonShakerforaDryShake
Whenyou’redoingadryshake,youdoneedtomodifyyourmethodifyou’reusingaBostonshaker(seepage213).Becausethere’snoice,yourcontentsaren’tcold,andyourshakingtinswon’tcontracttomakethetightsealyouneed.WithaBostonshakerusedinthetypicalfashion,withthetoptinseatedinthebottomhalfataslightangle(seepage218),youruntheriskofeggwhitesandcocktailleakingoutofthesidesandontoyourshirt,face,thewallbehindyou,andyourguests.
SoinsteadofsealingtheBostonshakerinthetraditionalmethod,alignthetwohalvesperfectly,deadcenter,andgivethetophalfasolidsmackwithyourfist.Doyourdryshake,open,addice,andthencloseinthenormalwaytodoyourfinalshakewithice.
BostonShakerinDryShakeAlignment
WHITELADY
TheoriginalwhiteladyrecipeinHarryCraddock’sSavoyCocktailBook,publishedin1930,doesn’tcontainanyeggwhites.However,almosteveryrecipeyou’llfindafterthatinexplicablydoes.Maybeit’sbecausebartenderslearnedwhatIlearned:whileawhiteladymadewithouteggwhite(aginsidecar,essentially)isagreatdrink,onemadewitheggwhiteisabsolutelysublime.
I’vetakenafewotherlibertieswiththisdrink,butmyfavoritehastobetheadditionofthethyme-infusedCointreau.
MAKES1DRINK
11/2oz/45mlLondondrygin
1oz/30mlThyme-InfusedCointreau(page127)3/4oz/22.5mlfreshlemonjuice(seepage22)
1tsp/5ml2:1simplesyrup(seepage78)1/2oz/15mleggwhite
Icecubes
1orangepeelforgarnish
CHILLEDCOCKTAILGLASS
Combinethegin,Cointreau,lemonjuice,simplesyrup,andeggwhiteinyourcocktailshaker.Shakewithouticeuntilthewhiteisfrothy(seepage157).Addicecubesandshakeagainuntilchilled.
Strainintothechilledcocktailglass.Twisttheorangepeeloverthedrink,discardthepeel,andserve.
CHAPTERNO8
ICE
SELECTINGASHAPEFORPROPERCHILLINGANDDILUTION
Thequestforflawlessice—crystal-clearcubes,perfectlyroundspheres,andfrostycrushedsnowdrifts—hasbeenahugepartofthemoderncocktailrenaissance.Butitisn’tthefirsttimepeoplehavegoneaboveandbeyondfortheperfectlychilleddrink.
Beforethenineteenthcentury,somepeopleknewthepleasuresoficeandsomedidn’t.Iceexistedonlyintheimaginationoffolkslivinginhotclimates.Northernsocieties,incontrast,harvestedblocksoficefromlakesandpondsinthewinter,andkeptitfrozenthroughthewarmseasonsbystoringitindeepwellsinsulatedwithstraw,foruseinsummerdrinksconsumedbygenteelcompanyinupper-crustdrawingrooms.
Inoneofthosedrawingrooms,atthehomeofwealthyBostonlawyerWilliamTudor,washisne’er-do-wellsonFrederic,whoturneddownhisadmissiontoHarvard,preferringinsteadtohangoutatthefamilyestate,huntingandfishing.Perhapswhilesippinganiceddrinkoneday,Frederichadanearlyinspiration:somebodyoughttobringthisstufftothetropics.
Beginningin1806,withanentrepreneurialmaniaandafewthousandofhisfather’sdollars,Tudorboughtships;packedice;bravedoceans,skeptics,andtropicalheat;andeventuallyestablishedaworldwideicetrade,bringingicefrompicturesqueNewEnglandpondstotheAmericanSouth,Cuba,Calcutta,andbeyond.Tudor’scompanycuticefromthefabledWaldenPond,causingHenryDavidThoreautowriteinhisjournal,“TheswelteringinhabitantsofCharlestonandNewOrleans,ofMadrasandBombayandCalcutta,drinkatmywell....ThepureWaldenwaterismingledwiththesacredwateroftheGanges.”
It’sinterestingtonotethatbackthen,icehadprovenance,andthebesticecamefromthebestplaces.Muchaswegetallmisty-eyedthesedaysoverCopperRiversalmon,EthiopianYirgacheffecoffeebeans,orhamfromthelittleblack-footedpigsofSpain,fancyLondonersinthemid-1800swouldserveonlycrystal-clearicefromWenhamLake,inMassachusetts.
Today’sbarculturemaynotbethatobsessiveaboutice,butwe’regettingthere.Forthemodernbartender,it’snotamatterofwhatlaketheicecomesfrom,butratherwhatformitcomesin:crushed,cubed,speared,“sphered,”andevensmoked.Icemeansmoretotheprofessionalbartenderthesedaysthansimplywhetheradrinkisservedstraightuporontherocks.Wenowtalkaboutdilutionandtemperaturewhenwetalkaboutice.Andthebestcocktailsareperfectlydiluted,andvery,verycold.
Becauseit’sthislastproperty—theonethatcreatesthebeautifulfrostyglazeonyoursilverjulepcup,thethirst-quenchingreliefwhenyoutakeasipofacolddrinkonahotday,andthebrainfreezewhenyousuckdownaSlurpeetooquickly—thathasdrivenpeopletodocrazierandcrazierthingssinceFredericTudorstartedshippingthaticearoundtheworld.
HOWICEBEHAVESWesaythaticeistothebartenderasfireistothechef.Inthesamewayaskilledcookusesheattopreparefood,theprofessionalbartenderusesicetopreparecocktails.Andasthechefcreatesandmanipulatesheatdifferentlytogetdifferentresults—thinkofthedifferencebetweenasearedsteakandabraisedpotroast—thebartenderusesdifferentformsoficeindifferentwaystopreparecocktails.Andinordertoknowhowtouseiceproperly,it’simportanttoknowwhaticeisandunderstandhowitbehaves.
Iceisthephaseofwater(H2O)thatoccursat32°F/0°C.Whenwaterbeginstofreeze,themoleculesbegintoformahexagonalcrystallinestructure.Watermoleculesalwaysformahexagonwhentheyapproachthattemperature,whichiswhysnowflakesalwayshavesixsides.Wateralsocomeswithanotherprettyremarkablecharacteristic,whichisthatinitsfrozenform,it(unlike,say,steel)occupiesmorespaceandisthereforelessdensethanitsliquidform.
WaterinitsLiquidStateWaterinitsSolidState
Iceperformstwoimportanttasksincocktails:itchillsanditdilutes.Italwaysdoesbothatthesametime,thoughitdoessoatdifferentrates,dependingonthesizeandshapeoftheice,andthemethodyouemploytomixthedrink.Someofithappensduringmixing,whetheryou’restirring,shaking,blending,orswizzling.Andsomehappensafteryou’vepouredthedrink,ifthedrinkisservedontherocks.Thechallengeforthebartenderisusingbothofthosevariablesinacontrolledway,byusingaspecificformoficeforeachtypeofdrink.
WHYICECLARITYMATTERS
Atypicalicecubefromahomefreezerisfairlycloudy—partsareclear,partsaremilky,andthereareprobablyafewfissuresrunningthroughthecube.Thecloudinessinicecomesfromtwosources:impuritiesandair,neitherofwhichwewantinourdrinks.Thismightnotseemlikeabigdealwhenyou’redroppingthecubesintoaDietCokeorglassoficedtea,butitcanmakeorbreakacocktail.Whetheryouriceisclearorcloudyisn’tsimplyamatterofaesthetics;it’salsoamatterofperformance.
Thefirstreasonweareconcernedwiththepurityoftheiceweuseisthattheicewillbecomeaningredientinyourcocktailsthroughtheprocessofdilution.Someofthaticeisgoingtomelt,andthewaterwillbemixedwiththeotheringredientsin
yourdrink.Soyouneedicethattastesonlylikepristinewater,andnotlikepipesorafreezer.
Airiniceisaproblemforotherreasons.Atnormalatmosphericpressure,oxygenandothergasesaredissolvedinwater.Asthewaterfreezes,ittrapstheair,resultinginopaqueicecubes,whicharen’tveryattractive.Moreairintheicealsoequalslessdensity,whichmeanslesscoolingpowerandfastermelting.
Dropacubeofpure,hard,cleariceintoaglassofgoodwhiskeyandyou’llhavealongperiodofsippingwithminimaldilution.Dropthesamesizecube,butonethat’sfrostedontheinside,andyourwhiskeywillbetastingprettyweakinashorteramountoftime;there’slessactualchillingpowerinthecube.
OBTAININGCLEARICE
High-endicemachinesaredesignedtopurifythewaterusedinmakingice,whichisonesteptowardclarity.But,moreimportant,theyalsofreezethewaterslowly,fromthebottomup.Astheicecrystalsslowlyforminthosebottomlayers,theysqueezetheairout,sendingituptothenextlayerofwater.Thatlayerfreezes,andtheairmovesuptothenextlayer.Eventuallythewholequantityofwaterisfrozensolid,andallthegaseshavebeenpushedtothesurface,wheretheyescape.Theslowprocessleavesyouwithgas-free,crystal-clearice.
Whenmakingiceyourself,whetherlarge-formatorsmallercubes,it’snearlyimpossibletomanipulatethedirectionofthefreeze,andI’vetriedprettymucheverymethodoutthere.Here’sthedealwithclearice:
Therearealotofknuckleheadsouttherewhowilltellyouthatyouhavetoboilthewaterfirst,inordertoboilofftheair.Someevensaytoboilthewatertwice,lettingitcometoroomtemperatureinbetween.Somesayyou’vegottofreezethewater,letitmelt,andthenfreezeitagaininordertoobtainclearice.I’veevenheard(Godhelpmeonthisone)thatyou’vegottoputthewaterinthefreezerwhilestillboiling,becauseboilingwaterfreezesfasterandclearerthancoldwater.Letmejustsharethiswithyourightnow,myfriend:everyoneofthosemethodsis100percentpure,crystal-clear,ice-coldb.s.
I’vetriedusinganaquariumpumptocirculatewaterinacontainerinthefreezer,butIstillhadahardtimecontrollingthedirectionofthefreeze.Oh,andIalsohadanelectricalcordhangingoutofmyfreezerdoorandanaquariumpumpfrozensolidinablockoficeattheendoftheexperiments.Iendedupwithicethatwaskindaclearish...insomeplaces.
I’vetriedfillinganIgloocoolerandcrammingitintomyfreezer,sothatthewaterwouldfreezefromthetopdown.ButthenIrealizedthattheonlythingIhadinmyfreezerwasanIgloocoolerandablockoficethatstillwasn’tperfectlyclear.Andittookagooddayandahalftofreeze.
I’vesetmyfreezertoahighertemperature,butstillbelowfreezing,inordertogivetheairtimetoescapeastheiceformedmoreslowly.ButthenIhadafreezerdedicatedtococktailice,asmyicecreammeltedandmyfishstartedtosmell.
AndthenIrealizedsomething:there’saplacedownthestreetthatsells300-lb/136-kgblocksofcommercial-grade,crystal-clearice.NowIgrabafewfellowbartenders,loadtheblockintoatruck,grabsomechainsaws,andhaveanice-blockcarvingparty.AndIwalkawaywithenoughlargebricksoficetofillachestfreezer.
Butifyou’restillhell-bentonmakingthedensest,best-tastingiceathome,justdoyourselfafavorandpickupsomedistilledwateratthegrocerystoreandfreezethat.It’sgotairinit,there’snowayaroundthat.Butit’salsogoingtobethepurestwateryou’llfind,sojustdoitandbehappywiththeresults.
STORINGICEYou’realwaysgoingtobemakingiceaheadoftimesinceitneedstimetofreeze,andforthemostpart,youcanmakeitmanydaysahead.Buticedoesn’tkeepindefinitely.Iteasilyabsorbsodorsfromotheringredients,sotrytokeepyourfreezerasfreefromoldfoodaspossible,andcyclethroughyouriceatleasteveryweek.Ifyoudon’tuseitbythen,dumpitandstartfresh.Ifyoureallywanttobefussy,orifyou’vespenttimefabricatingspecialshapesorsizes,youcansealyouricewithavacuumsealer,whichwillkeepitfreshandcleanformonths.
TRANSPORTINGICE
Ifyou’vegonetothetroubleofmakinghigh-qualityice—whetherthatmeansonehundred2-in/5-cmcubesoronestunningpunchring—andyouneedtotransportit,lineyourcoolerwithdry-icepacks,addyourcocktailice,andthentopwithmorepacks.Youcangetdryicefromanumberofsources,includinghardwarestores,icecreamshops,andgrocerystores.
Buttakecarewhenhandlingdryice,whichisfrozencarbondioxide.Dryiceclocksinatabout-100°F/-73°C,andifyoutouchitformorethanasplitsecond,yourcellswillfreeze,andtheresultwillbelikeaburn.Youalsodon’twanttostoredryiceinaperfectlyairtightcooler.Asthefrozencarbondioxide“sublimates,”orvaporizes,itturnsintogas,whichcouldcauseanyairtightcontainertoexpandandpossiblyexplode.
HANDLINGICE
Therearereallythreewaystohandleice:withyourhands,withapairoficetongs,orwithanicescoop.Andofcourse,eachtechniquehasitsownpeculiartricks.
You’llmainlybehandlinglargechunksoficewithyourbarehands—whetherpullingablockfromthefreezertocutandshape,orputtingasphereorlargecubeintoaglass—soyourhandsneedtobeimpeccablycleanbeforetouchinganythingthatwillbegoingintoyourguest’sdrink.
Tongsareusedforhandlingmedium-sizeice,whenapairofbarehandsmightseemalittleunsightlytotheguest,yetanicescoopmightbetoosmallforunwieldypieces.Therearemanytypesofstainless-steeltongstochoosefrom,andthechoiceisamatterofpreference.Ilikethetweezer-styletongswithtexturedtips,asIthinkthey’realittlemoreelegantandmaneuverablethanstandardscallop-tippedkitchenspringtongs.Bambootongsareanother,mainlystylistic,option.IfI’musingapairofbambootongs,Ialwayswraparubberbandaroundeachtiptoprovidealittleextragrippingpower.
Forsmallerpiecesofice,suchascubedorcrushedice,Ikeepa12-oz/360-mlstainless-steelicescoopwithasolid,contouredhandle.Usingaglasstoscoopicefromabinisabsolutelyforbidden,astheriskofeventhetiniestshardofglassinyouricesupplyisoneyoucan’taffordtotake.
TYPESOFICEHere’sadescriptionofthebasiccategoriesoficeusedbybartenders.Someareachievableinahomesettingandothersreallyaretheprovinceofthepros.
BLOCKICE
Let’sstartwithlargeblocksofice,andinmanycases,wemeanreallylarge.BarsthatmakeabigcommitmenttoiceprogramsarebuyingClinebellEquipmentCompany’sCarvingBlockIceMaker,aseriousinvestmentofamachinethatproducestwo300-lb/136-kgblocksofcrystal-cleariceeverythreeorfourdays.Specialpumpsandfiltersremoveimpurities,but,moreimportant,thewateriscirculatedoverametalcoolingplatesotheiceisformedfromthebottomupinlayers,asdescribedearlier.
Clinebellicemakerswereoriginallydesignedforpeoplewhoneededverylargeblocksoficeinordertodoicesculpture.Ifyou’veeverbeentoaculinaryschoolgraduation,orperhapsamidnightbuffetonacruiseship,you’veprobablyseenicesculptures:soaringeagles,gracefulswans,and,ofcourse,tastefulnudes.Whetheryougetwhysomeonewouldspendtwentyhoursinawalk-infreezercreatinganicesculptureornot,youcanunderstandwhytheyneedclearice.Anyveinofbubblesorchangeindensitycouldmeanafractureorcrumblethatruinsthepainstakinghoursofwork.Bycontrast,bartendersareratherrestrainedintheiricesculpting,stickingtolargecubes,spears,and,occasionally,dramaticallyshapedshards.
HowtoBreakDownBlockIce
Alargeblockoficeneedstobebrokendownintousablepieces.MyfriendsandIhaveachainsawthatwe’vesetasideforspecificallythispurpose.Wecarvethemassiveblockintomoreusable12-by-12-by-24-in/30-by-30-by-60-cmpieces,
whicharethensealedinplasticbagsandstoredinachestfreezer.
ThefirstthingIdowhenbreakingdownblockiceisremoveitfromitsbagorcontainer,andthenletitsetoutatroomtemperaturefor15to30minutes,dependingonthesizeoftheblockandwhattemperaturethefreezerissetto.Towarmitup,placeitonalint-freetowellaidoverasheetpan.Thisstepisimportanttobringtheiceuptoatemperaturethatwillallowcuttingwithoutshattering.Icebelow15°F/-9°Cissusceptibletoshattering.
Afterashortwarm-up,youriceblockshouldbereadytouse.Drainthesheetpanofwater,andplacetheiceblockatopafreshtowel(topreventslipping)onthesheetpan.
Thekeyhereistoworkslowlyandlettheicedothework.Iuseafine-toothedJapanesecrosscutrazorwoodworkingsawforthisprocess.Measuringapproximately6in/15cmfromonesideoftheblock,cutaguidelinewiththesaw.Onceyou’recertainthatyouhavetherightplacement,begintoslowlycutthroughtheblock.
Thisprocesstakessometimeandsomeelbowgrease,soworkdeliberatelyandcarefullyuntilyou’vemadeyourwaythroughtheblock.IusuallyplacethisfirstslicebackinthefreezertopreventmeltingwhileIcontinuetodividetheremainderoftheblock.
Breakingdownthepiecesfurtherwillrequiremorecutting,breakingtheslicesdownuntilyouhaveabunchofperfect,largecubesofice.
LARGE-FORMATICE
Largecubesarethebestoptionforservingiceinspirit-drivendrinks,astheymeltslowly,keepingthecocktailcoldwithonlyminimaldilutionoveralongtime.Onebig,chunkycubeisimpressiveasitsitstherechillingacocktailormeasureofwhiskeyinarocksglass.BarprogramsthatmakebigblockswithaClinebellicemakerorlargemoldsoftencarvelargemade-to-measurecubesforvariousdrinksusingthetoolsandmethodsdescribedpreviously,butthereareotheroptionsforgettinglarge-formatcubes.
Youcanusespecialmolds,suchasthosefromTovolo;theflexiblesiliconemakesiteasytopopoutthecubes.TheKingCubemodelmakes2-in/5-cmcubes,whichareactuallyquitebig.OryoucandowhatIdo:Pickupamulticompartmentplasticstorageboxatahardwarestore,theliddedtypemostoftenusedforholdingnailsandscrews.Simplydiscardthelid,fillwithdistilledwater,andfreeze.ThemodelIhaveathomehas13/4-in/4.5-cmcubedcompartments.Youcanstoreyourbig,beautifulcubesinaliddedplasticcontainerinthefreezer;justreachinandgrabtoorder.(Ifyou’remakingicetouseinacommercialsetting,however,youshouldsticktofood-gradematerials.)
CUBES
Large-formaticeisn’tgreatformixingcocktails,however,asonelargecubewon’tprovidethesameagitationasafewsmallerones.Thebeststandard-sizeicecubesforshakingandstirringcocktailsaremadebyKold-DraftorHoshizakiicemachines,whichproduceextra-large11/4-in/3.2-cmcubes,appreciatedbybartendersfortheirclarityandhandsomesquareshape,aswellastheirslow-meltingproperty.AthomeIuseTovoloPerfectCubesiliconeicetraystomakemyown1-in/2.5-cmcubes,whichIthenstoreinaliddedLexanplasticcontaineruntilI’mreadytousethem.
Stirringadrinkwithlargecubesrequiresalongertimetoaccomplishproperchillinganddilution;inabusybarsetting,thatcanbeadrawback.Acombinationoflargecubesandcrackedicewillspeeduptheprocess.Ioftenusearatioof3:1,wholecubestocrackedcubes.
SPEARS
Whileanicespear’smaincontributiontoadrinkisitsdramaticaesthetics,itdoesprovideaslow-meltingchill.It’sessentiallyalongcube,cuttofittheheightofacollinsglass.Spearsareusuallycarvedfrombigblocksbyindustriousbarbacks,ortheymaybefrozeninspecialmolds.
Youcanmakeyourownicespearmoldsbycarefullycuttingouttheseparatorsbetweenthechambersofaflexibleicecubetray,liketheTovolo,usingasharprazororX-Actoknife.Simplychoosehowmanycubestallyou’dlikeyourspearstobeandcutaccordingly.Youcanalsoorderpurpose-madecollinscubemoldsfromCocktailKingdomonline(www.cocktailkingdom.com).
Storespearsinaliddedplasticcontainerinthefreezer,withthelayersseparatedbysheetsofwaxpaper,andgrabtoorder.Justbecareful,though,asspearsaremorefragilethancubes.
CRACKEDICE
Halftoaquarterthesizeoficecubes,butnowherenearasfineascrushedice,crackediceoffersmoresurfaceareaforrapidcoolinganddilution,andgivesasparklinglooktoyourdrink.Iliketousecrackedicetospeedupstirtimesaswellastoserveinhighballs—there’ssomethingalmostromanticaboutthetinkleofsmallpiecesoficeinaglassasyousipaginandtonicwithamixtureofcrackedandcubedice.
Unfortunately,crackediceshouldn’tbemadeaheadoftime,asonewoulddowithlargerspecialtyice.Inordertominimizeexposedsurfaceareaandpreventmelting,thebartenderneedstomakecrackedicetoorder;Ifindthaticecrackedaheadofservicealwaysresultsineitherawaterymess,oramassofcrackedshardsfrozentogetherinthefreezer.
Tomakecrackedice,startwithacube.Cradleitinyour(impeccablyclean)handandstrikeitsharplywiththeedgeofthehammerendofyourbarspoon;twoorthreeblowsshouldgiveyoutheconsistencyyouwant.IalsolikeusingatoolcalledaTapIcerfromthe’50sor’60sthatIpickedupatanonlineauction.Ontheendofitsflexibleplastichandleisastainless-steelballthatshattersicecubesoncontact.
Analternativemethodistoslidesomecubesintoasmallicescoop,holdthescoopinyourpalm,andthwacktheicewithamuddler.Thenyoucansimplypourthecrackedicefromthescoopintotheglass.Thedisadvantageofthismethodisthattheiceismorelikelytojumparound,sincethescoopdoesn’talwayscradleandcontainit.
CRUSHEDICE
Crushediceisasitsounds—highlyfracturedice,whichmeanslotsofsurfaceareaandquickandeasymelting.Crushedicealsohasaparticularaesthetic,bothinthewayitlooksintheglassorcupandinthewayitfeels,sounds,andreleasestheliquorheldwithinthemyriadtinypocketsasyousip.
Forasmallquantityofcrushedice,Iusewhat’scalledaLewisbag.It’sessentiallyasmallcanvassleeveintowhichyousticksomeicecubesandthensmashthemwithamallet.Thecanvaswicksawaythemeltingwater,sothatyou’releftwithcrushedicethat’sfairlydry.Youcanreachinwithyouricescoopandfillyourglassdirectly.
Thecanvasneedstostaypristine,ofcourse,soitdoesn’t“flavor”yourice.ButneverputaLewisbagintothewashingmachine—youdon’twanttopickupanylaundrysoapflavors.Instead,runthebagthroughthedishwasherasneededandletitair-dry.
Youcanalsouseanice-crushingmachine.I’veusedtheWaringIC70model,whichworksfinewithsmallorcrackedcubesaslongasyoufeedtheminslowly,butotherwiseithasatendencytojam.Thelarger,heavy-dutyicecrushers,withburlyfive-horsepowermotors,willhappilychewthroughmoundsofice,butthey’reabitoverkillforahomebar.
Themachinethathasalwaysworkedwellformeathomeaswellasbehindthebarisaregularfoodprocessor.Fillwithicecubes,pulse,pulse,pulse,andbeforeyouknowit,you’vegotbeautiful,granular,fluffycrushedice.Nothingtakesadvantageofbeautifullycrushedicebetterthanamintjulep.
MINTJULEP
Iliketothinkofthemintjulepasoneoftheworld’sfirstsingle-servingcocktailsandasthepredecessortothecocktailthatwenowknowastheold-fashioned(seepage82).Ifyoulookclosely,thetwoformulasareessentiallyidentical:1tspofsugar,2oz/60mlofliquor,somewater,andalittlesomethingtoaddaflavorfulkicktothedrink.Inthecaseoftheold-fashioned,thatkickcomesintheformofbitters.Inthecaseofthemintjulep,itcomesfromfreshspearmint.
MAKES1DRINK
10sprigsfreshspearmint
1tsp/5ml2:1simplesyrup(seepage78)2oz/60mlbourbon
Crushedice
SILVERJULEPCUP
Inthebottomofthejulepcup,combineabout10freshspearmintleaveswiththesimplesyrup.Muddlethemintgently(seepage230)withthediskendofabarspoon,addthebourbon,andstirtocombine.
Workingslowly,addcrushedicewhilestirringtheingredientstochillthemandincorporatetheice.Continuepackingthecupwithcrushediceuntiltheiceformsamoundontopofthedrink.
Insertthetipofachopstickintotheicetomakeasmallhole.Gathertogether6to8trimmedsprigsofmint,andinsertthebouquetintothehole.Guideastrawintotheholealongsidethegarnish,andserve.
ICEFORPUNCH
Punchesaremadeinbatches,eithertobeservedoneglassatatimefrombehindabar,orasacommunitydrink,ladledfromaprettycrystalbowlataparty.Ineithercase,youneedalotoficetocoolthelargevolumeofpunch.Therearetwoschoolsofthoughtwhenitcomestokeepingpunchcold—addingicedirectlytothepunchorchillingitexternally.Whicheverapproachyouuseisreallyamatterofservice.Whichonewillprovidethecoldest,mostattractive,andeasiestwaytoservepunchinyoursituation?
AddingIcetothePunch
Youcanaddicetopunchdecoratively,bymakinganicemold,withorwithoutfrozengarnishes.Tomakemoldediceforpunch,chooseamoldthatwillfityourpunchbowl—anornateBundtpanorgelatinmoldusuallyisagoodsize.Slicecitrusfruitverythinlyandarrangeitinanattractivepatternontheinsideofthemold.Don’taddyourwaternext,oryourdesignwillfloataway.Rather,packthemoldwithcrushedice,whichwillkeepeverythinginplace,andthenfillwithcoldwaterandfreeze.Anicemolddoesrequiresomeforethought.Itcantakeupto12hoursforaringmoldtofreeze,soplanahead.
Ifyourpunchisn’tondisplay,sayit’sbehindthebarwhereyourguestswon’tseeit,youcankeepitcoldwithoutdilutingitbyfillinga1-qt/960-mlzip-topbagwithicecubesandplunkingitrightintothepunch.Overthecourseofyourevening,theicewillmelt,soyoucansimplyunzipthebag,pouroutthemeltedwater,andrefillwithnewcubes.
ChillingPunchExternally
Tokeeppunchcoldwithoutinternalice,fillalargebowlwithcrackediceandthenpositionyourpunchbowlintheice.Topofftheicebowlwithwater,stayingbelowtherimofthepunchbowlsoyoudon’trisksloshingintothepunch.
MAKINGSPHERICALICE
Aspheremadeofanymaterialisaspecialshape,inthatitprovidesagreateramountofvolumeforitssurfaceareathananyotherform.Forourapplications,thismeansthataspherethatisequalinvolumetoacubehaslesssurfaceareaexposedtotheliquidthatwillbemeltingtheice—24.069992018164percentless,tobeexact.So,theoretically,asphereoficewillchillthewhiskeythatsurroundsitwhileimpartinglesswatertothealcohol.Thereareafewwaystocreatethisdifficultshapeinice.
Toshapeaspherefromalarge-formatcube(seepage170),placethecubeonacuttingboardoronatowelonthecounter.Withonehandpressingdownonthetopofthecube,takeaserratedbreadknifeandslowlychipawaythebottomfourcornersofthecube.Flipthecubeoverandrepeatontheoppositesurface.Whatyoushouldbeleftwithisasortofpolyhedron,orasoccerball–lookingpieceofice.Wearingglovesorcradlingtheicewithatowel,useanicepickorserratedbreadknifetoknockoffanysharpcorners,rotatingtheiceuntilyouarriveatauniformshape.
MostbartendersIknowthenrinsetheiceballundercoolrunningwatertofurthersmoothoutanyroughedges.Theiceballisthendriedwithalint-freetowelandplacedinthefreezeruntilreadytouse.Whilethismethodisessentiallyfreeofextracostandequipment,itstillrequirestimeandexpertiseonthepartofthebartender.Lesseffectiveandmoreexpensiveoptionsthatrequirelesstechnicalabilitydo,however,exist.
Manycompaniesnowmakesiliconeiceballmolds.Thisisessentiallytwohalvesofasphere,whichfittogethersnuglytoformashell.Thewaterispouredintoaholeinthetophalfoftheunit(theholealsocatchestheoverflowasthewaterbeginstoexpand).Theunitisthenfrozensolid,thesiliconehalvesarepeeledfromtheiceball,andtheiceisreadytobeused.Myexperienceusingthesehasresultedinmorethanafewcrackediceballs,whosedeepfissuresessentiallyincreasethesurfaceareaoftheiceball,negatinganybenefitsinthatdepartment.
Thethirdmethodrequiresanexpensivepieceofequipmentandseemstobemoreofaparlortrickthanaclassicbartechnique,butitsureisawesometowatch.Thedeviceiscalledaniceballmakeroriceballpress,anditconsistsoftwoheavycopperoraluminumcylinders,whichfitoneontopoftheotherandareconnectedbypins.Inthecenterofthecylindersarehemisphericaldepressions;ifyouputthetwotogether,you’dhaveasphericalvoidinthecenter.
Youseparatethecylindersandplacealargecubeoficeinthebottomhemisphericaldepression.Placethetoponeontothepinssoitslidesdowntorestontheice.Theheattransferfromthecoppertotheicecreatesinstantmelting,andasthecubemelts,thecylindersmoveclosertogether,eventuallyclosingaltogether,withonlytheballoficeremainingontheinside.Yousortofhavetoseeittobelieveit;watchoneofthemanyvideosonlinethatdemonstrateit.It’sreallycool.Thedownsidetotheseunitsisthattheytendtobeveryexpensive.
CHAPTERNO9
MEASURING
DEVELOPINGBALANCEBETWEENPRECISIONANDEFFICIENCY
Afewyearsago,Iwasbehindthebaronaslowweeknight,wipingdownbottlesandtellingjokeswiththeregulars,whenIspiedayoungmancominginthedoor.
Heapproachedthebarcasually,lookingaroundtheroomtocheckouttheotherpatrons,andthensatdown.WhenIaskedhimwhathewouldlike,hegesturednonchalantlytowardthebottlesbehindme.“JustgivemeacoupleoffingersofScotch,please.”
“Certainly,sir.MayIseeyourID,please?”
Andwiththeheavysighofaninconveniencedman,heproducedadriver’slicensestatingthathewastwenty-threeyearsold.But,unfortunatelyforthisgentleman,Ihadalreadydeterminedthathewasn’tofageandsoIaskedtoseeasecondpieceofidentification.
“I,uh,leftitinmy,uh,car.I’llgogetit.”Andwithoutanotherword,hesnatchedthedriver’slicenseoutofmyhandsanddartedoutthedoor.IwentbacktowhatIwasdoing,withnointentionofmakingthedrinkherequested.
“Wow,thatmusthavebeenoneshittyfakeID,huh?”askedoneoftheregularsseatedatthebar.
“Ohno,itlookedreallygood,actually.Definitelygoodenoughtofoolevenmyeyes.”Isaid.
“So,thenhowdidyouknowhewasn’treallytwenty-one?”askedanotheroneoftheregulars.
“Itwasprettyeasy,actually,”Isaid.“Onlycowboysinoldmoviesmeasuretheirwhiskeyinfingers.”
WHYDOWEMEASURE?
Bartendingisnot,tothedismayofmany,anartform.Itisacraft.What’sthedifference?Well,simplyput,artisaboutcreatingsomethingbeautifulandunique,anobject,aone-of-a-kindmomentintime.Craftworkisaboutdoingthesamething,overandoveragain,improvingslightlyeachtime,fine-tuning,adjusting,andaimingfortheunattainablegoalofpureperfection.Soundskindofdrearytosome,buttothoseofuswhoenjoythatsortofthing,it’saZenpractice.
Cookingcouldbeconsideredanartform.Forthesavorycook,adashofthisandapinchofthatisthewaytorespondtoaparticularsetofingredientsonaparticulardaywheninaparticularmood.Makingcocktailsismoreakintobaking:everythingiscarefullymeasuredbeforebeingputthroughacalculatedtransformation—inbaking,throughheat;incocktails,usuallythroughcold.Thereisnoleavingitonthestoveforanotherhalfhour,addingabitmorebutter,orseasoningtotastewithsaltandpepper.Bakingdemandsprecision,andsodococktails.
There’salsothematterofconsistency—beingabletoduplicatethatperfectdrinkforyourguests,overthecourseoftheirstay,oroverthecourseofmanyyears.Believeme,yourhusbandappreciatesthatperfectmargaritayoumakehimeverysummerjustasmuchasthestockbrokerappreciatestheManhattanImakehimeverynightathappyhour.Andtheonlywaytodothatisbycarefullymeasuringeveryingredient,everytime.
But,aswithmostthingsinlife,measuringisnotassimpleasitsounds.Determininghowotherpeoplehavemeasuredtheiringredients,andfiguringoutthebestwaytoquantifytheingredientsforyourowndrinks,canbesomewhatpuzzlingattimes.
OLDTERMINOLOGY
Aquickonce-overofnineteenth-andearly-twentieth-centurycocktailbooksturnsupalitanyofoutdated,nonstandardized,bizarre-soundingmeasurements,whichmighthavesimplyremainedquaintterms,exceptforthefactthatoldcocktailbooksareafertilesourceofinspirationformodernbartenders.
JerryThomas(authorofTheBarTender’sGuide,1862)wasfondofaunitcalledawineglass,generallyassumedtobe2oz/60ml,whennotdescribedasasmallwineglassorlargewineglass.Thetermwasoftenshortenedtoglassinmanybooksandthenfelloutoffavoraroundtheturnofthetwentiethcentury,whichalsomarkedtheappearanceoftheubiquitousmetal“eggcup”–stylemeasuringdevice,witha11/2-oz/45-mlmeasureononeside(ajigger)anda1-oz/30-mlmeasureontheother(apony).Yes.Apony.
TheSavoyCocktailBook(1930),writtenbythelegendarybartenderattheSavoyinLondon,HarryCraddock,isafamousdisasterofmeasurement,oftencallingforabsolutemeasuresandproportionalmeasuresinthesamerecipe.Forinstance,therecipefortheimperialfizzcallsfor1partrum,2partswhiskey,thejuiceofhalfalemon(howevermuchthatmaybe;cocktailbookswererarelyprecisewhenitcametomeasuresofcitrus)andahalftablespoonfulofsugar.Whatitdoesn’tspecifyiswhatsizethose“parts”are:1oz/30ml,acoffeemug,ahollowed-outcoconut,or1gl/3.8L?
Addingtotheconfusionisthegill,animperial(U.K.)quantityofmeasureequalingaquarterofapint.Butwhosepint?Inimperialmeasures,apintisequalto20oz/600ml;inU.S.measures,apintisonly16oz/480ml.Soagillcouldbe5or4oz/150or120ml,dependingonwhosepintyoustartwith.
Andthenofcoursethere’sthedram,asin,“I’llhaveaweedramofScotch.”Adramislegallydefinedas1/8oz/3.75ml,andismostlyusedinapothecaryformulas.Hardlyenoughforme,anddefinitelytoolittleforanyScotsman.Fortunatelyforus,adraminthecontextofabarreferstoareasonablemeasureofwhiskey;inbartendingit’snevergivenanofficialquantity.
MODERNMEASURESAsnotedearlier,todaywemeasurecocktailsquiteprecisely,andwhilesomeofthepoetryoropportunityforimprovisationthatcamewiththoseoldertermsmaybelost,we’reprobablydrinkingmuchbetter,oratleastmoreconsistentlymade,cocktailsforit.MostU.S.drinkrecipeswillusetheU.S.measurementsystemoffluidouncesandrelatedterms.HereareabouttheonlytermsyouwillevercomeacrossthesedaysincocktailliteratureintheStates:
OUNCE TEASPOON DROPSANDDASHES
1 1 Anynumberofdashes3/4 1/2 Anynumberofdrops
1/2
1/4
You’llseethesemeasurementsinanycombinationthatdoesn’tcombinecolumns,meaningthatyou’llsee11/2oz/45ml,butyou’llalmostneversee1oz/30mlplus1tsp.Sotheingredientslistforabrandymilkpunchmightreadlikethis:
2oz/60mlwholemilk
11/4oz/37.5mlbrandy3/4oz/22.5mlJamaicanrum1/2oz/15ml1:1simplesyrup
1tsp/5ml2:1Demerarasyrup
1dashvanillaextract
Noticethat“tablespoons”hasbeenleftoutofmostbartenders’terminology,probablybecause1tbspisequalto1/2oz/15ml.Andsince1tbspisequalto3tsp,thereare3tspin1/2oz/15ml,whichisaverygoodthingtoremember.
Isometimesfinditeasiertogivelargermeasurementsincups,butnotallbartendersthinkthisway:
U.S.FLUIDOUNCES ALSOCALLED
2 1/4cup
4 1/2cup
6 3/4cup
8 1cup
16 1pt
32 1qt
64 1/2gl
128 1gl
(Noticethatthereisn’tareadytermfor3,5,or7fluidounces.)
THEMETRICSYSTEM
Thenthere’sthemetricsystem.IntheAmericansystemofmeasurement,theunitsofmeasurestartwithasystemofthirdsandthenswitchtoeighths—3tspareequalto1tbsp,but2tbspareequalto1floz,and8flozmake1cup—soit’sdifficulttoscaleupanddown,nottomentionthatmultiplesof8cangetconfusing.
Ontheotherhand,themetricsystemisbasedontenths,ormultiplesoftenths.It’ssomuchmorelogical.Thebasicrelationshipsbetweenamountsareeasytounderstandandadapt.Startwith1ml.Ifyoumultiplyitbyathousand(10x100),youget1L.Andit’sacinchtofigureoutpercentages:65percentof1Lis650ml.What’s65percentof2cups?Atthetimeofthiswriting,I’mawareofonlythreecountriesontheplanetthatdon’tusethemetricsystem:Liberia,Myanmar,andtheUnitedStates.There’ssomuchtosaythere,Ihonestlydon’tknowwheretobegin.IfIthoughtIcouldpullitoffwithoutinspiringamutiny,Iwouldconvertmyentirebarstafftometric.It’seasiertolearn,andit’swaymoreprecise.
Perhapsmoreimportantthantheeasy-to-graspsystemoftenths,metricmeasuresarebrokenintomuchsmallerincrementsthantheU.S.systemofmeasurements,allowingthebartendermoreprecision.Aswesaidearlier,sinceyou’llalmostneverseeacocktailrecipecallingfor1oz/30mlplus1tsp,themostprecisemeasurementyou’lleverget,whennotmeasuringeverythingintsp,isa1/4oz/7.5ml.
Inametriccocktailrecipe,youhaveamountsinincrementsof5ml,whichiscoincidentally1tsp!Soyou’llseemetricrecipescallingfor5,10,15,20...upto30ml,whichistheequivalentof1oz.Thelogicofmetricmeasurementisbeautiful,efficient,andpreciseforbartenderswhotrulycareaboutthefinedetails.
HOWMUCHISADASH?
Adashincocktailmeasurementtermsisn’tnearlyaspreciseasotheramounts,butit’snotatallarbitrary,either.Astandarddashwilltypicallymeasureoutat6to8tothetsp,so1dashisjustshyof1ml.
Dashesaremainlyusedformeasuringbitters,andwhilesomebartenderssimplyinvertthebittersbottleandcallwhatcomesoutadash,othersliketoputtheirbittersandtincturesintoeyedroppersorevenspeciallydesignedbittersbottles,whichmakedispensingtinyamounts—suchasasingledrop—morecontrollable.It’sanimprecisescience,tobesure,butonewe’velearnedtocopewithbytastingourcocktailsbeforewe’redonebuildingthem.
MEASURINGTOOLSAswitheverythingintheworldofbartendingequipment,therearegoodtoolsforthejob,andtherearebettertoolsforthejob.Thetoolsweuseformeasurementarenoexception.
JIGGERS
Notoolkitiscompletewithoutasetofjiggers.Iinsistoncarryingatleasttwo,butI’mreallymostcomfortablewhenI’vegotthreeonme.
Thefirstshouldholdboth1-and2-oz/30-and60-mlmeasures.Thesecondshouldholda1/2-oz/15-mlmeasureononeside,and3/4oz/22.5mlontheother.Thisshouldgetyoueverypossiblecombinationyouneed,butforspeed,Ialsostockonethathas11/2oz/45mlononesideandeitherafull1-oz/30-mlora3/4-oz/22.5-mlmeasureontheother.
Butwhataboutthe1/4-oz/7.5-mlmeasure,Icanhearyouscreaming.Well,somenewerjiggersarearrivingwithalineinsideofthe1/2-oz/15-mlmeasurethatindicateswhere1/4oz/7.5mlwillfall.Ifyoursdoesn’thavethisnicefeature,simplyfillyour1/2-oz/15-mlmeasurewith11/2tspofwater,andmarkalinewherethewaterlinelands.
Thatdescribesthevolumemeasurements,butwhataboutthestyleandshapeofthejigger?Theworldisfullofjiggers,buttheyallcanbedividedintooneoftwocategories:U.Smeasures(ounces)ormetricmeasures(milliliters).
WithintheU.S.-measurementcategory,therearetwostyles:AmericanandJapanese.TheAmericanstyleisshapedliketwowideconesconnectedatthetipstoformawaist—thejiggersareshort,squat,andiconic.You’veseenthem.
Japanese-stylejiggersaretallandslender.Theyhaveanelegantlook,but,moreimportant,youcangaingreateraccuracywiththem.Thinkaboutit:ifyouunderpour,forexample,byatinyfractionofaninch(orcentimeter),thattinyfraction,spreadacrossthewidesurfaceareaoftheAmericanjiggerismoreliquidthanthattinyfractionmultipliedbythesmallersurfaceareaofanarrowjigger.
Inthemetricjiggercategory,IliketheonesmadebyBonzer.Nicelymachinedinheavy-gaugestainlesssteel,Bonzersaretotallycylindrical,withnopinched-inwaist,andjustafewhorizontalgroovesforaneasiergrip.(Thisiscalledathimblestyle.)Theseare,ofcourse,greatwhenyou’reworkinginmetricmeasurementsforyourcocktails.Thedownsideisthatyou’llneedagiantsetifyouwanttoaccommodateeverypermutationofthescale.
Agoodcompromise—ifyouconsidercompromiseagoodthing—aretheclearjiggersmadebyOXO.They’reessentiallysmallmeasuringcupsthataredesignedforreadingfromoverhead(ratherthanhavingtobringthejiggertoeyelevel).TheseOXOcupsaremarkedinmetricmeasuresaswellasU.S.amounts,whichIappreciate.
ReadingtheU.S.measuresaccuratelyfromoverheadistough,however,especiallyinadarkbarwhenmeasuringclearliquids.Thejiggersarealsooddlycalibrated,andontheU.S.measureside,they’renotgreat(there’sno3/4-ozmeasure,forexample).
ButtheydoofferyouthechoicebetweenU.S.andmetric—agoodoptionforpeoplewhodon’twanttoinvestinacompletesetofmetricjiggers.
Theothertoolsyou’llusetomeasureareregularkitchenmeasuringspoons,andinsomecases,yourbarspoon,thebowlofwhichis,intheory,theequivalentof1tsp.Butbecausenotallbarspoonsareequal,youshouldalwayshavegoodstainless-steelkitchen1-tspand1/2-tspmeasuresinyourkit.
HOWTOMEASURELIQUORPROPERLYUSINGJIGGERS
Holdyourjiggerlevelbetweenthethumbandforefingerinyournondominanthand,rightnexttoyourmixingglassorshaker.Slowlypourintheliquorsothatitfillsthejigger,givingyouafullyroundedmeniscus.Thencarefullytipthejiggeroverthelipofyourmixingvesseltoaddtheliquortoit.
HOWTOPOURFROMABOTTLE
IreceivedmydegreeininteriorarchitecturefromtheUniversityofOregonin1998.Theprimaryfocusofmystudy,asisthecaseinanyinteriorsdepartment,washowhumansinteractwiththebuiltenvironment.Twoofthecomponentsofthedisciplineareanthropometricsandergonomics.
Anthropometryis,literally,the“measurementofman”inGreek.Itisthestudyofthehumanbody’sdimensions.Peoplewho,say,designclothingforalivinghavethetoughjobofsummingusallupintermsoflarge,medium,orsmall,despitethefactthateachandeveryoneofusisproportionallyunique.
Ergonomics,ontheotherhand,isthescienceofreconcilingthatfactwiththerealityoflivinginastaticbuiltenvironment.Ifyou’veevertakenaminutetothinkaboutthedistancefromtheseatofyourcartothegaspedal,that’sergonomics.Toiletpaperdispensersareatthesameheight,doorhandlesarealwayswhereweexpectthemtobe,laptopsareaspecificwidth,andstairsaregenerallyofacertaintreadwidthandriserheight.That’sallergonomics.
SinceIdidstarttendingbarwhileinschool,Ihavealwaysbeenveryconsciousofmylargeframebehindthebar.Iwalkintoabarandimmediatelynotewheretheliquoriskept,whatheightthesinksare,howhighthebartopis,andthedistancefromtheicewelltothebackbarcounter.Nearlyeverythingabouttendingbarisphysical.Couplethatwiththefactthatyou’reliftingandrotatinga2-lb/910-gbottleofboozeeveryfewseconds.Ifyou’veeverhadcarpaltunnel,asIdidwhenIspentninehoursadaydraftingwithamouse,thenyouknowwhatexcruciatingpainawaitsyouwhenthebodyandthebuiltenvironmentdon’tworkwelltogether.
Thetypicalgraspyou’llseebartendersusewhenreachingforabottleisanoverhandedgrab,meaningthatwithpalmfacinginward,thebottleisheldeitherattheneck,middle,orbaseandrotatedwellover45degreesinordertopourthecontents—theproblemherebeingthatatthisangle,thewristcanonlyrotate45degreeswithoutinjury.So,inessence,everydegreepastthe45-degreemarkisgoingtorequireadditionalstrainonthewrist,elbow,andshoulder.
Makingthismotionhundredsoftimesanightoverthecourseofyearsbehindthebarhasgivensomebartendersinjuriesthatprecludethemfromworkingorforcethemtowearabraceorusetheirnondominanthand.
Butthere’sabetterwaytoholdabottleofliquorthatisgentleronthewristandresultsinlesspossibilityofinjury,andthat’stheunderhandedpour.Anunderhandedpourusesthefull90-degreerangeofthewrist,putslessstressonthearm’sjoints,isamoreeleganthold,andisevenmoreprecisewhenmeasuring.
Startbyholdingyourdominanthandwiththepalmopenandfacinguptowardtheceiling.Or,ifyou’rebartendinginthegreatwideopen,thesky.Whatever.Nowsliptheneckofthebottlebetweenthemiddleandringfinger,anduseyourthumbtopinchthesealofthepourspoutwhereitmeetsthebottleneck.
Liftingthebottleslowly,andcurlingyourindexfingeraroundtheneckasyoudoso,begintoturnyourwristinwardtopour.
Soon,theringfingerwillnaturallybesupportingmostofthebottle’sweightwhiletheindexandmiddlefingerscontinuetocurlaroundtheneckandthethumbpressesdownward,supportingtheturn.
Onceyoucompletethepour,curlyourmiddlefingerbackintowardthepalm;yourthumbandforefingerareleftpinchingthebottleneck,whichisreadytobeplacedbackinitsplace.Itmayseemawkwardatfirst,butwithsomepracticeitbecomesagentler,morenaturalwaytoholdabottle.
SPEEDANDFREEDOM
It’sonethingifyou’remakingacocktailforoneortwopeople;it’sanotherwhenyou’reinabusyprofessionalsituation.Howdoyoubalancepreciseandcontrolledmeasurementwithmovingalotofdrinksacrossthebar?
Obviously,partofthatanswerisbyexperienceandacquiredskill.Mostbartendersoutfittheirliquorbottleswithaspeedpourer,aspoutthatallowsacontrolledstream,makingitaloteasiertoswiftlyandsmoothlydelivertherightamountofspirittothejigger.Speedpourersalsokeepyourbarneater,avoidingdripsandopenbottlenecks.
Atmybars,allofmybartendersaretaughttomeasure,buttheydelivertheliquorusingspeedpourers.ThemodelmostwidelyusedbyprofessionalsistheSpill-Stopmodelnumber285-50.They’reavailableprettymucheverywhere.
There’sastepbeyondthat,however,whichisactualfreepouring.Somechainrestaurantsrequiretheirbartenderstofreepourbecausetheyfeelitaddsadegreeofshowmanship,whichtheylike.Thosebartendersundergointensetraininginordertodevelopthefeelforthepour,andtherearealotofquality-controlcheckups.
Youcanteachyourselftofreepourathome,asIdidwhenIwaslearninghowtomixdrinks.SimplyfillanemptyliquorbottlewithwaterandfitthebottlewithaSpill-Stoppourspout.Getyour1-oz/30-mljiggerready,standoverthesink,andpreparetocount.
Therearetwokeystogreataccuracywhenitcomestofreepouring.Thefirststrategytobemindfulofisthecountingsystemyouchoose.Holdingthejiggerinyournondominanthand,quicklyinvertthebottlesothatitisstraightupanddown,andpourfromthebottleofwaterintothejiggerwhilecountingto4.The
number4isimportant,asitiseasilydividedandmultiplied.Bylearninghowtopour1oz/30mlwhilecountingto4,youcaneasilypourallofthecommonmeasurementsusingthissystem:
1/4oz/7.5mlbycountingto1
1/2oz/15mlbycountingto2
3/4oz/22.5mlbycountingto3
1oz/30mlbycountingto4
11/2oz/45mlbycountingto6
2oz/60mlbycountingto8
Whenthewaterhasnearlyfilledthejigger,snapthebottlesharplyinadownwardmotion.Thiswillforceasmallairbubbleintothepourspoutandmomentarilystoptheflowofliquid.Quicklyturnthebottle90degrees,andwithanyluckyoushouldhaveaneat,fulljigger.
Seehoweasythatis?Well,it’seasyonceyoumakeapointofpracticingeverysingleday(that’sthesecondkeytogreateraccuracymentionedearlier—practice).Musclememoryisapowerfulthinginbartending,andthisisaperfectexampleofthat.Repeatyourtestwiththebottleofwaterandthejiggeroverandoveragainuntilyoucandoitwithoutneedforthejigger.
Nowyoucantestyourself.Getanemptyglassormixingtin,andpouryourself1oz/30mlbycountingto4.We’llcallthis“pouringblind.”Nowemptythecontentsoftheglassintothejiggertotestyourresults.Adjustyourcountasnecessary.
YoucanalsopickupanExacto-Pourtestingsetifyoureallywanttogetpreciseaboutcounting.Thetestingsetsareessentiallygraduatedtesttubeshiddenwithinasmallbox.Youpickyourpoursandthenturntheunitaroundtoseehowpreciseyouare.
Thedebatesbetweenthejiggeringcampandthefree-pouringcampcangetacrimonious,andtherearedefinitelyvirtuesandchallengestoeach.Myfeelingisthatmeasuringisthesimplest,mostreliablewaytogoinanysituationwhereyouhavemultiplepeoplemakingdrinks—asinaprofessionalbar.
SPEEDPOURINGVERSUSFREEPOURING:THETWOCAMPSOFMEASURING
WhenItookoverthebaratClydeCommonin2009,therewasnorealsysteminplaceformeasuringtheingredientsthatwentintothecocktails.Imean,therewasthislittleshotglassthebartendersweresupposedtobeeyeballingtheirpourswith,butasyoucanimagine,itwasimpreciseand,atitsbest,sloppy.TheminuteIsetfootintheplaceIknewIwasgoingtohavetochangethis“system”tomypreferredsystemofmeasurement.
SoIbracedmyselfforsomeresistancefromthestaff.AndresistanceIreceived.ThemostobstinatememberofmynewlyinheritedstaffwasayoungmannamedJustinPike.Hewas,andstillis,anincrediblebartender.And,likemostincrediblebartenders,hedidn’tseethepointinchanginganythinghedidbehindthebar,andhedefinitelydidn’twanttobetoldwhattodo.
ButIknewsomethingaboutJustinthathedidn’tyetknowabouthimself:thatanotherqualityofagreatbartenderistheirabilitytochange.Andslowly,overthecourseofthenextseveralmonths,Justinlearnedandadapted,andgrew,reluctantly,toappreciatethenewsystemwe’dbuilttogether.AndthenonedayheapproachedmeformyrecommendationsofbarstovisitwhileonvacationinSeattle.
OneofthebestbartendersI’veeverseenisMurrayStenson,upinSeattle.You’llfindalotofpeoplesayingthesameabouthim,whichmeansthere’sprobablysomethingtoit.ThethingaboutMurrayishoweveryonetakessomethingdifferentawayfromtheirtimespentathisbar.Somefolksadmiretheguyforbeingaveritabledatabaseofcocktails.Somelookuptohimforhisabilitytomakeincredibledrinks,orforhisextensiveknowledgeofScotchwhisky.IpersonallymarvelathisabilitytoremainunflusteredwithahundredpeopleshoutingathimonapackedFriday.I’mnotgoodatthat,andIwishIcouldbemorelikehiminthatregard.
SowhenJustinaskedmewhosebartositatinSeattle,IimmediatelythoughtofMurrayandsenthimtotheZigZagCafé,whereMurraywasworkingatthetime.SeatedrightinfrontofMurray’sstation,JustinimmediatelypickeduponsomethingthatI’dforgottenabout,somethingthatmighthavemademechooseanotherbarforthisparticularmemberofmystafftositathadIthoughtofit:Murraydoesn’tmeasure.Atall.Nojiggers,andhalfthetimehe’sgotnospeedpourersonthebottle;he’sjustpouringfromtheopenneck.WhenIaskedhimaboutitforthisbook,hehadthistosay:
“I’mnotascontraryonjiggeruseasyoumightbelieve.Ispentmyfirstfifteenyearsofbartendingusingajigger,butatmylasttwojobsIwasjiggerless.I’vehadgoodandbaddrinksthatwerejiggeredandfromfreepours;Ithinkitdependsonthebartender.”
Averygoodpoint,butnotthesortofthingIwastryingtoinstillinayoungstaffmember.SowhenJustinnoticedthatMurraywasfreepouring,withmykindwordsaboutMurraystillringinginhisears,theconflictofourtwoopposingcampsonmeasuringbecamealmosttoomuchtobear.Andhehadtoaskthequestion,“So,Murray,whydon’tyouusejiggerstomeasureyourdrinks?”AndMurraystoppedwhathewaslooking,lookedJustindeadintheeye,andutteredthewordsthatnearlysetallmyhardworkoverthepreviousmonthsbacktosquareone:
“Becausejiggersareforsissies!”
JustinisnowoneofthemostcelebratedbartendersinLosAngeles,andhetellsmethatheandhisstaffstillmeasureeverydrink,soIguessImusthavehadsomesortofimpactonhimafterall.
WHYMETRICMAKESMORESENSE
InIanFleming’s1953JamesBondnovelCasinoRoyale,Bondorderswhatwouldbecomehisiconicdrinkofchoice:thevesper.Hedictatestherecipetothebartenderasfollows:“ThreemeasuresofGordon’s,oneofvodka,halfameasureofKinaLillet.Shakeitverywelluntilit’sice-cold,thenaddalargethinsliceoflemonpeel.”
Myissuewiththisdrinkisthatit’senormous.Huge.Barelydrinkable,exceptbyMr.Bond,whodeclares,“Ineverhavemorethanonedrinkbeforedinner.ButIdolikethatonetobelargeandverystrongandverycoldandverywellmade.Ihatesmallportionsofanything,particularlywhentheytastebad.”
GoodthingforBond,becauseifwetakeeach“measure”tomean1oz/30ml,thenourvesperrecipeisasfollows:3oz/90mlGordon’sgin
1oz/30mlvodka1/2oz/15mlLilletblanc
Awhopping41/2-oz/135-mldrink,andthat’sbeforeweshaketodiluteit.Themoretroublingnotionformetowrapmyheadaroundiswhatsortofglassthebartenderwouldhaveputthisinbackin1953.
The1990swasthedecadeoftheOutrageouslyOversizedMartiniGlass,andwewereservingenormous,colorful,boozy,sugaryconcoctionstoourguestsinglasswarethesizeoffishbowls.Butpriortothe’90s,glasswarewasmostoftenofareasonablesize,andmartiniglassesweretypically4to6oz/120to180ml.Fortunately,we’vereturnedtomoresustainableproportionsinthepasttenyears.
Butwheredoesthatleavethevesper?Ifwesimplyhalvetherecipe,weendupwiththis:
11/2oz/45mlGordon’sgin1/2oz/15mlvodka1/4oz/7.5mlLilletblanc
A21/4-oz/67.5-mldrink.Muchmorereasonable,buthardlyadecent-sizedrink,inmyopinion.Iwouldliketolandsomewhereinbetween,saytwo-thirdsthesizeoftheoriginaldrink,butthat’sgoingtogiveussomeverystrangemeasurements:
21/4oz/67.5mlGordon’sgin3/4oz/22.5mlvodka3/8oz/11mlLilletblanc
Fine,butgoodluckfindinga3/8-oz/11-mljigger.
Abetterandsimplersolutionwouldbetousemetricmeasurements.Onthenextpageiswhattwo-thirdsoftheoriginalrecipewouldlooklikeinmetric,asa90-ml/3-ozdrink—amuchmorerespectableserving,especiallyforsomeonewhoholdsalicensetokill.
VESPER
MAKES1DRINK
60mlGordon’sgin
20mlvodka
10mlLilletblancIcecubes
1largelemonpeelforgarnish
CHILLEDCOCKTAILGLASS
Combinethegin,vodka,andLilletinacocktailshakerfilledwithicecubesandshakefor12to15seconds.Strainintothechilledcocktailglass.Twistthepeeloverthesurfaceofthecocktailanddropinthedrink.
BATCHINGDRINKS
Theultimateinmeasuringisknowinghowtoscaleuparecipefromasingleservingtoalargebatchforservingmultipleguests.Ifyou’remultiplyingby100,that’ssimpleenough;you’lljustmultiplyeachingredient’samountby100,andyou’redone.
Butmoreoften,you’llneedtoscalearecipeupforaspecificsizeofvessel.Whetheryouwanta5-gal/19-Lbucketofmargaritasforaparty,orafifth(750ml)ofManhattansasaChristmasgiftfortheboss,thereisatechniqueforfillingthatcontainer.
Forthisexample,we’lluseoneofmyfavoriteclassiccocktails,theImprovedHollandCocktail.Thisdrinkisagreatillustrationofcomplexscaling,duetothethreedifferenttypesofmeasuringunitsinvolvedinmakingit.
2OZ/60MLgenevergin1TSP/30ML2:1simplesyrup1/2TSP/15MLmaraschinoliqueur2DASHESAngosturabitters1DASHabsinthe
Thefirstthingweneedtodoisgetallofthosecrazyunits(ounces,teaspoons,dashes)intoacommonunitsize.Wecouldconverteverythingovertometric,orwecoulduseadashasacommondenominator,buttomakelifeeasieronourselves(withouthavingtomeasureout20,000dashesofgin),we’regoingtoconverteverythingtoounces.Bearinginmindthatsincetherearemoreorless6dashesin1tsp,1dashisequalto0.027oz/0.8ml:(Note:youcanapplythesameconversionprocessandconverteverythingtomilliliters;it’ssimplyamatterofgettingeverythinginthesameunit.)2OZgenevergin0.167OZ2:1simplesyrup0.083OZmaraschinoliqueur0.055OZAngosturabitters0.027OZabsintheConvertingallofthesemeasurementsintoonecommonunitwillletmeknowtheexactsize,inounces,ofthatcocktail.Addingtheabovemeasurementsupgivesme2.332ozoftotalvolume.
Iwanttomakea750-mlbottleofImprovedHollandCocktailforapartyafriendishostingtonight.A750-mlbottleequals25.360oz,soIneedtoknowhowmanytimesmy2.332-ozdrinkwillgointo25.360oz/750ml.
Since25.360ozdividedby2.332ozequals10.874,bymultiplyingeveryingredientby10.874,Iwillhopefullyarriveataround25.360oz/750ml—afullbottleofImprovedHollandCocktails:genevergin:2OZ×10.874=21.758OZ2:1simplesyrup:0.167OZ×10.874=1.815OZ
maraschinoliqueur:0.083OZ×10.874=0.902OZAngosturabitters:0.055OZ×10.874=0.598OZ
absinthe:0.027OZ×10.874=0.299OZ
I’llprobablytakesomesmalllibertiesandroundoutafewofthosemeasurementsintonormalamounts:213/4OZgenevergin13/4OZ2:1simplesyrup1OZmaraschinoliqueur1/2OZAngosturabitters1/4OZabsintheIfweaddallthosetogether,wearriveat25.25ozofcocktailforour25.36-oz/750-mlbottle.Closeenough.
LiquidMeasurements
U.S. METRIC1/4teaspoon 1.25milliliters
1/2teaspoon 2.5milliliters
1teaspoon 5milliliters1/2fluidounce(3teaspoons) 15milliliters
1fluidounce(2tablespoons) 30milliliters
2fluidounces 60milliliters1/3cup 80milliliters
1/2cup 120milliliters
1cup 240milliliters
CHAPTER10
STIRRING&SHAKING
ASSEMBLINGANDINTEGRATINGACOCKTAIL’SCOMPONENTS
Stopmeifyou’veheardthisone:Aguywalksintoabarandordersamartini.Thebartenderfillsacocktailshakerwithice,addsvermouthandgin,andthenshakesthedrinkashardashecan.Theguydrinkshisfoamy,slushycocktail,pays,andleaves.Henevercomesback.
Okay,howaboutthisone?AguywalksintoabarandordersaManhattan.Thebartenderfillsacocktailshakerwithice,addsvermouthandwhiskey,andthenswirlstheshakerwithalimpwristforacoupleofseconds.TheguydrinkshiswarmManhattan,pays,andleaves.Heneverreturns.
Ifyou’renotlaughingateitherofthosejokes,thenmaybeyoualreadyknowwhatIknow:Thesetwoscenariosareplayedouteveryday,allovertheworld,bybartenderswhodon’tknowhow—orwhen—toproperlyshakeorstiracocktail.Andit’sreallytoobad,youknow,becauseit’snotallthatcomplicated.Itjusttakes,likeeverythingelseinbartending,alittleattentiontodetailandtechnique.
Soherearethebasicrulesthatprofessionalsusewhenitcomestoshakingorstirringcocktails:Wewantanydrinkcomposedentirelyofspirits—suchasManhattansandmartinis—tobecrystalclearandArcticcold.Theyshouldbebiting,bracing,andfreeofairbubblesandicechips.Andsothosetypesofdrinksarealwaysstirred,becausestirringisagentlerprocessthanshaking.
Anydrinkthatcontainsjuice,cream,oreggwhitesisalwaysshaken,becausewewantthosedrinkstobewellcombined,fulloftinyairbubbles,cold,andmoredilutedthanspirit-drivendrinks.It’sreallyaseasyasthat:clearequalsstirred,cloudyequalsshaken.
Butthere’smoretoshakingandstirringthansimplyknowingwhentoapplyeachmethod,andthat’sknowinghowtoexecutethemperfectly.Thatiswhatthischapterisallabout.
CHILLINGANDDILUTIONBartendingiskindofaweirdfieldinsomeways.Therearen’tmanyotherjobswhereyouencounterasmuchsuperstitionasyoudoinbartending.Andwithinourfield,therearenosubjectsmoreladenwithmyththanshakingorstirring,andthat’sunfortunatebecauseifanythingcanbeexplainedthroughscience,it’sthechillinganddilutionofacocktail.Scienceevenhasawordforit:thermodynamics.
Whenice(whichistypicallyataround32°F/0°Cwhensittingatroomtemperatureinanicebin,or5°F/-15°Cstraightoutofthefreezer)iscombinedwithaliquid(let’sassumearound70°F/21°Cforourcocktail),thecocktailcoolsdown,andtheicewarmsup.Simpleenough.
Whenweagitateacocktailthroughshakingorstirring,we’regreatlyincreasingthesurfaceareaoftheliquidthatcomesincontactwiththeice.It’spartofthereasonwhyweshakeorstirinthefirstplaceandexplainswhyshakingchillsanddilutesacocktailmuchmorequicklythanstirringdoes;shakingissimplyamoreaggressiveprocessthatputsagreateramountoftheliquid’ssurfaceareaincontactwiththeice.
Ittakesafairamountofenergytomeltice.Whatiscalledtheheatoffusion—meaninghowmuchenergyisabsorbedbytheiceas1grammelts—comestojustunder80caloriespergram.Almostallofthatenergyisgoingtocomefromtheheatintheliquid,which,aswesaidbefore,isataround70°F/21°C.Asthewarmercocktailcomesincontactwiththecolderice,thesurfaceoftheicewarmsuptothemeltingpoint,32°F/0°C.Theicemelts;thecocktailbecomescooler.
Now,chillinganddilutionareinextricable,whichistosaythatnomatterhowcoldyouriceis,it’snevergoingtochillyourcocktailuntilitssurfacewarmsupto32°F/0°C,whichmightbealittlecounterintuitive,butit’strue:icekeptinaninsulatedbinwillchillacocktailfasterthanicekeptbelowfreezing(inafreezer).
Asyoucontinuetoshake,theicemeltsuntilthewholesystemreachesequilibrium,andtheiceandthecocktailarethesametemperature.Sinceourcocktailscontainalcohol,theequilibriumpointtendstobebetween23and14°F-5and-10°C,becausethefreezingpointofalcoholisconsiderablylowerthanthatofwater.Muchthewayicewithsaltaddedtoit(forthepurposeofmakingicecream)hasalowerfreezingpoint,drinkscontainingalcoholareabletobechilledtotemperatureslowerthan32°F0°C.
Oncethisequilibriumpointismet,that’sit.Nofurtherdilutiontakesplace,andthedrinkisfinished.Thishappensregardlessofwhetheryoushakehard,orshakeveryhard,inthespanof12to15seconds.Afterthat,nothingmoreisgoingtohappen.It’salsotruethatthesizeoftheiceisn’tamajorfactorinchilling,withinreason(finelycrackedorcrushedicehastoomuchsurfaceareaandtoolittlevolume).Sowhetheryou’reusing11/4-in/3.2-cmor1/2-in/12-mmcubes,thereisabsolutelynodifferenceintermsofchillinganddilution.None.
Whybotherwithbigger,colderice,then?Ifthetemperatureanddilutionareexactlythesamenomatterwhatweuseinourcocktails,whyshouldwebotherwithwhatwe’vebeentoldisbigger,better,colderice?Well,becausenoneofthistakesintoaccounttexture,whichisofcoursethedifferencebetweenagoodcocktailandagreatcocktail,particularlyinjuice-forwardcocktailsanddefinitelyindrinksthatcontaindairy.Allofthatviolentshakingproducesveryfineairbubbles,whichareoneofthehallmarksofagreatdrink.Andlargericecubesproducethesmallestairbubbles,givingyouafinertexture.
Thewholepointofthisistoletyouknowthatyoushouldneverletpeoplebullyyouintothinkingthatyouneedanexpensiveicemachineinordertomakeworld-classcocktails.Youdon’t.
TimesandMeasurementsforIdealDilution
SHAKING STIRRING
Typeoficeneeded
Cubes Cubesplusasmallamountofcrackedice(3:1ratiocubestocracked)
Fillline Completelyfull
Three-quartersfull
Idealtime 12to15seconds
30to45seconds
Idealtemperature
23to19°F/-5to-7°C
32to23°F/0to-5°C
Idealpercentofdilution
25to40% 20to25%
Youdon’teverwanttoaddiceandbeginstirringunlessyouknowyouwon’tbeinterruptedintheprocess.Addingice,pouringinyourspirits,andthengettingcalledawaytosignforthebarlinendeliveryortakeaphonecallisagreatwaytoruinadrink;theicewillmelttoomuch,oratleastmorethanyoucanaccuratelyperceive.
Toavoidthissituation,weuseatechniquecalledbuildingdry,whichsimplymeansaddingtheiceonlyafterallothercomponentsareinthemixingglassandyouarereadytomix.
STIRRING
Stirringseemsprettysimple,right?Westirliquidsallthetime:westircreamandsugarintoourcoffee,stirsomeingredientstogethertomakesoup,stirthebubblebathstuffintothetub,whatever.Butwhenstirringacocktail,we’retryingdosomethingmorethanjustmixthingstogetherinaglass.Hereareourgoalsagain:
Afinalproductinwhicheverythingisthoroughlycombined
Acrystal-cleardrink,freeofbubblesoriceshards
Aproperlydilutedcocktail—justenoughtotakethestingoffthealcohol
AnArctic,ice-coldcocktail
Achievingallthatjustbymovingaspoonaroundaglassrequiresknowingathingortwo.
THESPOON
Abarspoonisalong,slendermetalspoonspecificallydesignedforcocktails.Youknowthetype;you’veprobablyencounteredacheapstampedstainless-steelversionwithaninexplicablered-plastictipatsomepointinyouradventures.Mosthaveatwistedstem,andthegoodonesoftensportafunctionalshapeoneachend—thebowlofthespoonitselfononeendandanothersortoftoolontheother,suchasamuddlerorafork.
Whenlookingforabarspoon,thefirstthingyouwanttodoisskiptheliquorstoresandrestaurantsupplyshops;mostofthemcarryonlythosecheap,red-plastic-tippedspecimensyouseeeverywhere.SpendafewextraminutesscouringtheInternetorspecialtyshops,andafewextradollarsonsomethingthatwillgetthejobdoneinamoreelegantandprofessionalfashion.
Thefirstthingyouwanttodowhenevaluatingabarspoonistogaugetheheft,howtheweightandbalancefeelasyouholdit.Thespoonshouldfitcomfortablyinyourhand,andtheamountandshapeofthecoilsonthestemshouldprovideyouagoodpurchaseonthespoon.Isteerclearofthosesexyspoonswithoutcoils,astheytendtosliparoundinthegripofwetfingers,whichyou’reoftengoingtohavebehindthebar.
Thespoonshouldn’tbetooheavy,asitwantstodancebetweenthefingersandnotclankaroundawkwardlyintheglass.Thebalancefromtoptobottomshouldbeevenlyweighted;abowl-heavyspoonislazyanddifficulttocontrol,andatop-heavyoneishyperactiveandspasticintheglass.
Inadditiontothebowlononeend,abarspoonshouldhavesomethingusefulontheoppositeend.Ilookforaspoonwitheitheradiskorhammerend.Thediskendissimplythat—aflatdisk,likeacoin,thatcanbeusedtomuddleherbs(moreonthatinchapter11).Ahammerendischunkier,withaflatdiskfacebutalsoenoughmassandweighttodoubleasbothamuddlerforherbsandatoolforcrackingicecubeswithalittlelesseffortthanthedisk-endedmuddlers.
IalsoalwaysstockaJapanesespoonwithatridentforkontheoppositeendfromthebowl.Thisprovidesanexcellenttoolforspearingolivesandcherries,soIwon’tneedtongs(orbeforcedtograbthemawkwardlywithbarefingers).However,ninetimesoutoftenIreachformyhammer-endspoon,astheextraweightprovidesthebalanceI’mlookingforwhenstirring.
BARTENDER’SCHOICE:BARSPOON
MyfavoritespoonismadebySwissmar.Itmeasures103/4in/27.5cmlongandismadeofstainlesssteel.Thecoilisperfectlyspunformylargerhands(thosewithsmallerhandsmightfindthisspoonatadoverbearing).Thehammerendissolidandheavy,withatextureddiskfaceformuddlingandasolidbaseforcrackingice.Myonlycriticismisthattheice-crackingsurfacecouldbesharper,andthetinyserratedteethonthespoonbowlareunnecessary.
IfI’mreachingforatrident-endspoon,it’salwaystheJapanesetight-coil31.5-cmtrident-endbarspoon(about121/2in)fromCocktailKingdom.It’slong,balanced,andelegant,andthetightcoilfeelsgreatinthehand.
STORINGBARSPOONSDURINGSERVICE
Barspoonsgetagoodworkoutduringservice.ButmaneuveringfromstirringaManhattantoscoopingoutacherrypackedinsyruptostirringamartiniisgoingtorequireconstantrinsingunderthesinkifyoudon’twanttheremnantsofeverythingthatspoonhastouchedshowingupinyournextdrink.Tomakerinsingalittlesimpler,wekeepourspoonsina16-oz/480-mlmixingglassfilledwithwarmwater.Beforeservice,weaddtwodropsofbleach—convenientlykeptinaneyedropperandclearlylabeled—toensureasanitarysolution.
MIXINGGLASSES
Forsomereason,stirredcocktailsarealmostalwayspreparedinaglassvesselratherthanametalcontainer.Thereasoncertainlywouldn’tbethermodynamic,asmetalisbetterforchilling.Myguessisthatwhenproperlystirred,acocktaillooksappealingtotheguest,dancingaroundintheglasswithanoccasionalflashofsilverorgold.
Myday-to-daymixingglassatmybarisa16-oz/480-mlglass,availableprettymuchanywhere.Butifyouwanttogobeyondthismostbasicstandard,you’llfindanarrayofvesselstochoosefrom.Theycanbeaslargeas34oz/1L,ormore,andcomeinavarietyofshapes.You’llfindsloped-sided,straight-sided,andevenstemmedandtulip-shapedmixingglasses.Justbesureyourglassisalittlebottomheavysothatyoudon’thavetoworryabouttippinginaction.
Yourchoiceofsizewilldependonwhatyourcocktailhabitsare—averylargeglassmaymakesenseonlyifyouplantomixmultiplecocktailsatonetime.Andyoudefinitelyneedtoconsiderhowyourglasswillfityourbarspoon—noreachingyourhanddownintothemixingglassbecauseyourspoonistooshort—aswellasyourstrainer.Anybeautythatyoumaycreatebymixingacocktailinastunningcut-crystalglasswillsoonvanishifyousloshthedrinkoverthebarasyoustrain.(Seemoreonstrainersonpage208.)
BARTENDER’SCHOICE:MIXINGGLASS
WhenI’mentertainingathome,Itendtochooseoneoftwooptions,dependingonthesizeofthegroup.Thefirstoptionisaspecialmixingglassfrommycollection.TheseamlessYaraimixingglassistheonemostoftenfoundincraftcocktailbarsthesedays,butotherssuchastheJapanesepaddlemixingglassandstemmedmixingglassarebeautifulandelegantaswell.Youcanfindalloftheseonlineatmyfavoriteonlineretailer,CocktailKingdom.
Afunoptionforlargergroupscanbefoundinthriftandvintagestoreseverywhere,aswellasatonlineauctionsites:alargeglasspitcher,oftendecoratedwithgoofy1950sartworkdepictingallmannerofmartinis,Manhattans,andothercocktailsandusuallyadornedwithterriblerecipesthatshouldneverbereplicated.They’refun,they’recheap,andthey’replentiful.
PROPERSTIRRINGTECHNIQUE
WhenIfirststartedbartending,therewasonemethodofstirring:Youbuiltthedrinkinthemixingglass,addedtheice,andthenviolentlyplungedthespoonupanddownintothemixwithonehand,whiletheotherhandcuppedtheopeningofthemixingvesseltokeepitspreciousingredientsfromspillingout.Anysuchescapeesweresplashedunhygienicallyagainstthepalmofyourhandandbackintothemix.Sinceit’sstillprettyubiquitousinthiscountry,we’regoingtorefertoitastheAmericanstir.
WhenIfirstexperiencedEuropeanbartending,Iwitnessedaslightlymoreelegantbutalmostequallyconfusingtechnique.Bartendersthere,particularlyintheUnitedKingdom,graspedthespoonbythebowlendusingthethumbandforefinger,andstirredthecontentsbytracingtherounddiskendaroundtheinsideoftheroundmixingglass.Lessviolent,tobesure,buthardlyasolutionwithfinesse,asthespoon’sinvertedstateandthebartender’sgriponthebowlbroughttothetablethequestionofhygieneonceagain.We’regoingtocallthistheU.K.stir.
Butinthemid-2000s,videosandstoriesbegantoemergeonlineaboutJapanesebartenders,whograspedthespoonbythemiddleandeffortlessly,almostmagically,twirledthespoonaroundtheglassinsilence.Theirfingers,heldperpendiculartothespoonasitspun,seemednoteventomoveasthecontentswerethoughtfully
andpreciselytwistedintoavortexintheglass.TheJapanesestiristhetechniquethatmosttrainedbartendersaroundtheworldhavenowadopted.Ittakessomepractice,buttheresultsseparatetheprofessionalsfromtheamateurs.
HowtoPerformtheJapaneseStir
Buildyourdrinkinthemixingglassandaddenoughicetofilltheglassonlythree-quartersfull.Lightlygraspthespooninthemiddle,usingyourthumbandforefinger.Theconcavebowlofthespoonshouldbefacingtheinterioroftheglass,andtheconvexbackofthespoonshouldbenestledinbetweentheiceandthewalloftheglassinterior.
Usingyourpinchonthespoonasapivotonly,begintopushandpullthespoonawayfromandtowardyourbody,usingyourringandmiddlefingers.Doingthisshouldnaturallyguidethespoonaroundtheinterioroftheglassinacircularmotion,asyoupushandpullthespoonawayandtowardyou.
Withsomepracticethismotionwillbecomeeffortless,andyoucanbegintoliftthespoonandsinkitintothecontentsoftheglass,achievingperfectmixing.
STRAININGASTIRREDDRINK
Sowe’vegotourspoontostirourcocktailwith,aglassvesseltostiritin,andnowweneedatooltoallowustogetthatdrinkofftheiceandintotheservingglass.Thatpieceofequipmentiscalledastrainer,ofwhichtherearetwostyles:julepandHawthorne.
Originatinginthedaysbeforeplasticstraws,thejulepstrainerwasoriginallydesignedasalarge,slotted,spoonlikeimplement,whichthedrinkerplacedoverthetopofaniceddrink(suchasamintjulep)toholdtheicebackawayfromtheteeth.Asspirit-driven“cocktails”grewinpopularity,bartendersbegantousethespoonlikestrainerasatooltostrainstirreddrinks.Thejulepstrainerisoneofthemanycocktailtoolsinwhichformandfunctioncombinetocreateatrulybeautifulobject.Usethejulepstrainertostrainstirreddrinks.
HOWTOSTRAINWITHAJULEPSTRAINER
Tostrainastirreddrinkwithajulepstrainer,placethestraineroveryourmixingglass,concave-sidefacingdown,convex-sidefacingup.Holdthestrainerinplacewiththeforefingerofyourdominanthand.Liftthemixingglasswiththatsamehandandpour.
BARTENDER’SCHOICE:JULEPSTRAINER
Thevariationsinjulepstrainersaremostlyamatterofthematerialandthecraftsmanship—thebasicshapeofalljulepstrainersisthesame.MyfavoriteisCocktailKingdom’sproprietarysilver-platedmodel.
MARTINI
Themartiniisthegreat-grandfatherofallstirredcocktails.Atmybarweprefera5:1gin-to-vermouthratio,whichI’vefoundtobemostpleasingtothegreatestnumberofmartinidrinkers.
MAKES1DRINK
21/2oz/75mlLondondrygin1/2oz/15mldryvermouthIcecubes
1lemontwistoroliveforgarnish
COUPEORCOCKTAILGLASS
Combinetheginandvermouthinamixingglassandstirwithicecubes.Strainintothecoupeglass.Twistthepeeloverthesurfaceofthecocktailanddropinthedrink,orgarnishwiththeolive,toserve.
SHAKING
Unlikestirreddrinks,whereyourgoalisclarityandanabsenceofanyfizzorfoam,shakendrinkswanttobelight,almostfluffy,withabracingchillandlotsoftinyairbubblestodanceonthetongue.Whenshaking,herearethegoals:
Afinalproductinwhicheverythingisthoroughlycombined
Anaeratedcocktail,fulloftinybubbles
Aproperlydilutedcocktail,enoughtotakethestingoffthealcoholandtheweightoffoftheotheringredients
Aperfectlyuniformdrink,freeoficeshards
AnArctic-coldcocktail
Whilethebestbartendersintheworldmakeitlookeasy,achievingallofthisrequiresabitofmultitaskingandsomepropertools.
THESHAKER
Youhavetwomainoptionsincocktailshakers:theBostonshakerandthecobblershaker.Iprobablyshake95percentofmydrinksinaBostonshaker,asit’sbestforhigh-volumebarprograms.Butit’sgoodtoknowhowtohandlebothtypes.Shakingacocktailisahighlyvisiblegesture;andfortheguest,watchingtheprocessisanimportantpartofthesweetritualofdrinkingawell-madecocktail.Soyoudonotwantaleakyshakeroroneyoucan’tswiftlyandsmoothlyhandle.
TheCobblerShaker
Thecobblershakeristheonemostpeoplethinkofwhentheythinkofacocktailshaker.It’sgotthreeparts:acup,alid,andacap.Mostaregarbage.Themetalthey’remadefromistoothin,andtheyfreezeshutonceloadedwithice.Believeme,I’vetriedtheseshakers,whichyouoftenfindatfancyculinaryshops,andI’vethrownthemawaymoreoftenthanI’vebeenabletogetthemopen.
Therearehigh-qualitycobblershakers,however,thebestbeingthick-walledshakersfromJapan.WMF,Rösle,andOXOalsomakedecentmodels.Allhavebuilt-instrainersunderthecap,eliminatingtheneedforaseparatestrainer,butthesmallopeningofthestrainer–pourspoutmeansittakeslongertopouryourdrink,whichcanslowyoudownonabusynight.
Ilikethe500-mlheavy-gaugestainless-steelmodelfromJapan,soldbyCocktailKingdom.It’sperfectlyengineeredtoopenandclosewithouttrouble,andtheheavy-gaugestainlessmeansit’snotgoingtofreezeshut.
TheBostonShaker
Theprofessional’schoiceofcocktailshakersistheBostonshaker,whichconsistsoftwocontainers,oneofwhichfitsintotheother.Therearetwocommonconfigurations:Thefirstconsistsofamixingglassthatfitsintoalargesteeltin;thesecondistwostainless-steeltins—onelarge,onesmall.
Sincethisisreallythesimpleststyleofshaker,thereisn’tmuchofadifferenceinqualityacrossthemanybrandsavailable.Simplylookformedium-gaugestainlesssteel,andensurethatthetwopartsfittogethersmoothlyandsnugly.Thedeepertheoverlapwhenthetwopartsareseated,thebetter,somakethisyourforemostconsideration.It’sgoingtomakelifealoteasierwhenitcomestimetogetthedamnthingopen(seepage218).
TheParisianShaker
Thethirdoptioninshakers,whichislesscommon,istheParisianshaker.It’stypicallymadeofstainlesssteel,althoughifyou’reverylucky,youmayfindsomevintagesilver-platedmodelsoutthere.Theearliestdesignsseemtodatefromthe1870s;theGermanmanufacturerWMFstartedmakingtheirsin1910andcontinuetodosotoday.YoucouldsaytheParisianisahybrid—inshapeitresemblesacobbler,butthecombinedvolumeofthetwopiecesismorelikethatofaBostonshaker,andthereisnobuilt-instrainer.
You’llfindsomeprettyimpostorsoutthere,butIstickwiththeclassicmadebyWMF.Thisisaheavy-gaugestainless-steelshaker,builttowithstandyearsofabuse.Infact,Ifindthattheytakeonanicepatinaafterseveralyearsofshakingandscratchingthesurface.
LEARNINGTOSHAKE
Whathappensinsidetheshakeryouchooseisgoingtomakeorbreakyourdrink.Inordertoachievethecorrecttextureandtemperatureforyourcocktail,youneedtoshakethedrinkcorrectly—whichmeanstherightgrip,andtherightmotion.Seriousshakingisn’tmerelyamatterofstyle,butonceagainoneofphysics.
WhenItrainbartenderstoshakeacocktail,Ihavethemstartoutbyshakingatinfullofrice,muchthesamewaythatachefintraininglearnstoflipfoodinthesautépanbyflippingapanfullofriceforafewtedioushours.
Riceisaperfecttrainingmaterialbecauseit’scheapandnotasmessyasaliquid,andmoreimportant,youcaneasilyfeelandhearthemotionofthecontents.Andifyou’reusingaglassmixingcup,youcanseethecontentsaswell.It’simportanttonoteherethatthebestbartendersintheworldusealloftheiravailablesenseswhenworkingbehindthebar,shakingbeingoneofthebestexamplesofthatfact.
HowtoShakeaCocktail
First,buildyourdrinkdry,combiningallofyouringredientsintheshakerexceptfortheice.Thenaddenoughicetocompletelyfilltheshaker,positiontheshakingtinontop,andgiveitarapwiththeheelofyourpalmtoseal.
Mostshakersaresymmetrical,butthetopofaBostonshakershouldbecockedtooneside.Ikeepthestraightsideclosesttomybody.Gripthebaseofthebottomcupwiththemiddleandindexfingersofonehand,cradlingtherestofthecupwithyourthumbandremainingfingers.
Graspthetopcup,whichisalsocalledtheshakingcup,withyourotherhand,holdingyourthumbonthetopoftheshakingcup,tokeepitsecured.Thetopoftheshakershouldbefacingyou,andthebottomshouldbefacingawayfromyou.
Themostcommonmistakeyou’llseeinexperiencedbartendersmakeisshakingitupanddown,vertically.Dothatwithrice,andyou’llnoticethatthecontentsdon’treallytravelveryfarinsidetheshaker,anddefinitelynotwiththeforceyouwant.
Holdtheshakersothatit’sparalleltothefloor,and—whilegraspingsecurely—launchitforwardsothatyoucanfeelandhearthecontentsleavingtheendclosesttoyourbodyandhurlingagainstthefrontofthetin.Rightatthatmoment,asthecontentsoftheshakerareabouttohitinthefarendoftheshaker,youneedtosnapyourwristsbacktowardyourbodytosendthemsmashingintothefarendoftheshaker,andbacktowardyou.
Whenyoudothiscorrectly,you’llhearacleanpop.Launchingtheshakerforwardandpullingitrightbackwithacleansnappingmotionistheproperwaytoshakeacocktail.It’sallinthewrists,andshouldbesmoothandeffortless.Ifyou’reworkingupasweatorfeellikeyou’reabouttotearyourrotatorcuff,you’redoingitwrong.
HowLongtoShake
Shakingcreatestheactionthatwillmixthecontentsandagitatetheicesothatitmeltscorrectly,buthowlongislongenough?
Quitesimply,larger,coldericeshouldbeshakenforalongertimethansmaller,wetterice.Dependingonthesizeandtemperatureofyourice,usearangeof10to18secondsforyourshake.
SHAKINGDON’TSANDDO’S
DON’T DO
shakeacocktailinthedirectionofyourguest.Itwillhappentoeverybartenderatleastonce—youloseyourgripandsendtheshakerflying.
turn45degreestoonesideandshake.Anymajorcatastropheswillbeavoided;dropsfromyourwethandsorthecontentsoftheshakerwillnotbesplatteredalloveryourguest.
attempttogetawaywithfillingtheshakeronlypartwaywithice.
filltheshakercompletelywithice,maximizingchillandminimizingsloshing.
OpeningtheShaker
RegardlessofwhichBostonshakersetupyouchoose,gettingtheshakerpartsconnectedandunconnectedisabigpartofthejobandnotalwaysaneasyfeat.Whenyouloadyourshakerwithcoldliquidsandice,themetalchillsandcontracts,andtheairchillsandcontracts,essentiallycreatingavacuumseal.That’sagoodthing,becausethevigorousshakingthat’sabouttotakeplaceisgoingtotestthelimitsofanyseal.
Butit’sabadthingwhenitcomestimetopouryourdrink,unlessyouknowhowtomakethetwopartsoftheshakerrelease.IspentmanyyearsasayoungbartenderholdingmybreathasIyankedattheBostonshaker,bangeditagainsttheedgeofthebar,orevenrinseditunderhotwatertotrytogetthecupstounstick.Finally,Ilearnedafoolprooftrick,andI’veneverhadaproblemsince.ButIstillseebartendersmakingmyearlymistakesandsoIofferapieceofprofessionaladvicebelow.
HowtoSealandOpenaBostonShaker
Ifyou’regoingtogotheprofessionalrouteandworkwithaBostonshaker,you’regoingtohavetoknowhowtoopenitproperly,usingonlyyourhands.Bangingtheshakeragainsttheedgeofthebarisnotonlyunsightlyanddisruptive,butalsoextremelydangerousifyou’vechosentouseamixingglassinconjunctionwiththeshakertin.
First,payattentiontohowyoujointhetwotins(ortinandglass).Whenyouseatthetwopieces,thetoponewillnaturallywanttococktotheside,whichleavesonestraightcup.
Nowinverttheshakerandlookstraightdownthroughthelongaxis.Youwillseethetwocirclesformedbytherimofeachcup.Atonespot,theywillbetouchingeachother—that’syoursixo’clock.Directlyoppositewillbeyourtwelveo’clock,andthat’swherethegapbetweenthecirclesislargest.
Youcouldhittheshakernearsixortwelveo’clockahundredtimes,anditwon’topenevenonce.Oneithersideisthreeo’clockandnineo’clock.Toreleasethecups,smacktheheelofyourhandsmartlyagainstthelowercupateitherthethreeornineo’clockposition,dependingonyourdominanthand.Theshakerwillpoprightopen.
TheBostonShaker
StrainingTwiceforTexture
ThestraineryouusewithashakencocktailistheHawthornestrainer,whichisatoolthatyou’llfindonlybehindabar;there’snorealcounterpartinthebatteryofkitchenequipment.AHawthorneconsistsofasmallslottedplatewithacoupleoftabs,whichhelpittospantheopeningofyourmixingtin(orglass)whenplacedontop.TheHawthornealsohasaspringaroundtheunderside,whichiswhatstrainsouticeandotherlargesolids.
Overthecourseofanevening,bitsoffruitpulp,mint,eggwhites,etc.,willremaintrappedinthecoilsofthestrainer,whichwouldbeunsightlyinacrystal-clear,single-straineddrink.Sowe’llbedouble-strainingallofthedrinksmadewithHawthornestrainers—throughtheHawthorneandthenthroughafine-meshstrainer.
MyfavoriteHawthornestrainerismadebyOXO,andlikemanyofOXO’sproducts,itisagoodvalueforthemoney.Itcostsverylittleandisnicelymade,feelsgoodinthehand,andiseasytomanipulatebecauseitshandleisnoticeablyshorterthanthehandlesofmostotherHawthornestrainers.
Whenyoustrainastirred,spirit-drivencocktail,you’reessentiallystrainingapureliquidwithyourjulepstrainer,andallitneedstodoisholdbackicecubes,sothereisnoneedtodouble-strain.Butashakencocktailislikelytohavemoresmallsolids—perhapsfromfruitjuices—anditalsomaycontaintinyshardsofice,aresultofthevigorousshaking.
Youdon’twantanyofthatinyourfinaldrink,asashakencocktailshouldhaveapristine,uniformtextureandnofurtherdilutionfromtinyshardsofice.SoIdouble-strainallmyshakencocktails.Double-strainingissimple—justoutfityournondominanthandwithasmallfine-meshstrainerandpourfromyourHawthornethroughthemeshstrainerintotheglass.YoumaybesurprisedtoseehowmuchgetspasttheHawthorne.
Fine-MeshStrainer
Myfavoritetoolfordouble-strainingistheNorproKrona4-in/10-cmstainless-steeldeluxedouble-meshstrainer.It’swellmadewithveryfine-gaugemesh,andthehandlehassomehefttoit,whichgivesitsomebalance.It’salsoattractivetolookat,withitscontouredhandleandchromeplating,asitrestsonyourbar.
SIDECAR
ThefirstdrinkIreallygottoknowwasthesidecar.Atart,bracingblendofcognac,Cointreau,andfreshlemonjuice,aperfectlymadesidecaristheultimateexpressionofashakencocktail.Mostrecipesyou’llseeouttherecallforasugaredrim;Iskipitandchoosetobalancethedrinkintheglassinstead.
MAKES1DRINK
11/2oz/45mlcognac3/4oz/22.5mlCointreau3/4oz/22.5mlfreshlemonjuice(seepage22)
1tsp/5ml2:1simplesyrup(seepage78)Icecubes
1orangepeelforgarnish
COCKTAILGLASS
Combinethecognac,Cointreau,lemonjuice,andsimplesyrupinamixingglassandshakewithicecubes.Double-strainintothecocktailglass.Twistthepeeloverthesurfaceofthecocktailanddropinthedrink.
CHAPTERNO11
OTHERMIXINGMETHODS
TECHNIQUESTOMATCHMANYSTYLESOFCOCKTAIL
There’sanothertechniqueformixingdrinksthatyou’llseeperformedfromtimetotime.Granted,youwon’tseethisoneatanyofmybars;norwillyouseeitatanyofthemanyplacesaroundtheworldthatserveawell-madecocktailthesedays.Butyouwillseeitinachainrestaurantbar.You’llalsoseeitattheairport,butonlywhentrafficintheconcourseisslow.You’lldefinitelyseeitinsportsbars,andjustaboutanyplaceonthebeach.GaryRegandubbedit“theSeattlemuddle”inhisbookTheJoyofMixology,butit’slongleftthatcity’slimitsandspreadtothefarcornersoftheglobe.Andhere’showitgoes:
Thebartenderfillsamixingglasswithvariouschunksofspoiledfruitfromthegarnishtray,maybeapacketofsugarorsomemint,seeminglywhatever’slyingaround.Finally,iceisaddedandthewholeshebangiscoveredupwiththepalmofonehand,andawoodenmuddleristakenupintheother.Andthenthemagicbegins.Themuddleristhrustintothegapbetweenthethumbandforefinger,andwithaviolentthrashing,theingredientsarepulverizedwiththeiceinthemixingglass.Harderandharderthebartendermashesandchurns,asthewetingredientsaresplashedalloverthepalmofhisorherhandandbackintothedrink.Bitterpeelsareobliterated,herbsareturnedintopaste,andiceiscrushedintowet,hand-flavoredcrystals.
Thealcoholandanyotherincidentalmixersarethenadded,thewholemessislikelytobeshakenlimplyforasecondortwo,andthedrink—orwhateveryouwanttocallit—isservedtothepoor,unsuspectingguest.
Thereare,ofcourse,manybettermethodsoutthereformixingcocktails.Andwhile90percentofthetimeyou’llbeusingthetwodescribedinthepreviouschapter,stirringandshaking,thereareafewothermethodsthatshouldbeunderstoodbythewell-roundedbartender.Justknowthatthescenariojustdescribedisdefinitelynotoneofthem.
BUILDINGINTHEGLASS
Thesimplest,mostelementarymixingmethodiscommon,important,andexactlyaseasyitsounds.You“build”thedrinkrightintheservingglass,asopposedtocreatingitinamixingglass,shaker,blender,orothervessel.You’lltypicallyusethisforhighballsorcocktailswithjustaspiritandamixer;butitalsoappliestodrinkssuchasCaipirinhas,Mojitos,andsomeswizzleddrinks(seepage226).
Tobuildintheglass,addyourliquortoachilledservingglass,andthenaddice.Finishbytoppingoffwithyourmixer:water,tonic,soda,fruitjuice,orwhatever.Addingthemixerlastallowsyoutoachievethecorrectvolumeandstrengthofdrinkforyourglasssize.
ROLLING
Theideabehindrollingistomixtheingredientstogetherwithoutintroducinganyairorfroth.Tomatojuiceisparticularlysusceptibletofrothing,sowealwaysrollaBloodyMaryratherthanshakeit,inordertocombineallthosepowerfulingredients.
HowtoRollaCocktail
Afterbuildingyourdrinkinamixingglass,captheglasswithamixingtinand,holdingtheshakerhorizontallyinthepalmofyourhand,rotateyourwristsothattheshakermovesinalazycircle.Youcanfeelthecontentsrollingoveronthemselveswithoutbecomingoverlyaerated.
SWIZZLING
Askthemanonthestreetwhataswizzlestickis,andhe’lldescribealong,colorfulplasticstickwithsomethingridiculousonthehandleend—aflamingo,amonkey,ormaybeamildlyoffensiveislandnativeinagrassskirt.Youstickitinacocktailandstir,andthenlayitonthecounter,tobethrownaway.Butthat’snotswizzling.
Trueswizzlingisamethodusedtomixaveryspecifictypeofdrink—acrushed-icedrink,usuallyCaribbean,sometimestiki—anditrequiresaspecifictool.TheauthenticswizzlestickwasborninMartinique,andismadefromtheQuararibeaturbinata,commonlyknownastheswizzlesticktree,anaromatictreethatgrowsonmostoftheCaribbeanislands.Thetreeformsslimbranches,whichendinmultiplefingers.Whentrimmed,thefingerslooklikespokesattheendofthelongstick.InMartinique,thisiscalledalele.
HowtoSwizzle
Generally,swizzleddrinksarebuiltintheglassfirst.IliketostartwithacollinsglassthatI’vechilledinthefreezer.Combinealloftheingredientsintheglass,andthenfilltheglasswithcrushedice.Inserttheswizzlestickintotheglass,andholdthestickbetweenbothpalms.Rubbingyourpalmsbackandforthrapidlytospinthestick,slowlybegintomovethestickupanddownwithintheglass.You’remixingandaeratingthedrink,butyou’realsochurningthecrushedicesothatitsuper-chillstheinsideoftheglass,whichcreatesabeautifulfrostontheexterior.
QUEEN’SPARKSWIZZLE
Longbeforeanyonecameupwiththoseoverlyalcoholic,sugaryconcoctionsforchuggingdownindanceclubsandcollegebars,liketheLongIslandicedtea,therewasanothertall,boozydrink,whichwasservedandsippedatthebarintheQueen’sParkHotel,inTrinidad.Composedmostlyofrum,withafewotheringredientsandalotofcrushedicetotempertheheatofthealcohol,theQueen’sParkswizzleisaclassicbooze-ladensipper.
MAKES1DRINK
3oz/90mlDemerararum3/4oz/22.5mlfreshlimejuice,plusthespentlimehalf1/2oz/15ml2:1Demerarasyrup(seepage78)Crushedice
3dashesAngosturabitters
1bunchfreshspearmint
CHILLEDCOLLINSGLASS
Combinetherum,limejuice,Demerarasyrup,andthespentlimehalfinthechilledcollinsglass.Filltheglasswithcrushediceandswizzleuntiltheglassbecomeswellfrosted.Finishwiththebitters,andgarnishwithalargebouquetofspearmint(seepage260).Servewithastraw.
BLENDINGThecocktailianworldhasalove-haterelationshipwithblendeddrinksthesedays.Therearefewpeopleouttherewhodon’ttrulyenjoyagoodslushydrinkonahotday,andthosewhosaytheydon’tareprobablylyingtoyouanyway.Fancycocktailbartenderssneerandscoffattheideaofhavingtoserveblendeddrinks,althoughmostofthemhaveneveractuallyhadtodoso.
I,ontheotherhand,haveworkedinmyfairshareofMexicanrestaurantsand,asaresult,Ibecameveryfriendlywiththeblenderstation.Andyouknowwhat?Sure,it’skindofannoyingsometimes.Ablenderisloud,it’sfairlycumbersome,andittakesacertainamountoffinessetobeabletomakeablendeddrinkproperly.Plus,youcanmakeonlyonetypeofdrinkatatime,soifyou’vegotthreeblendedmargaritas,twopiñacoladas,andablendeddaiquirionthesameticket,you’rekindascrewed.
Butitwouldbefoolishtowriteabookonbartechniqueandnotincludethisvenerablesystemofmakingdeliciousdrinks,soIpresenttoyoutheproperwaytoblendadrink.Withthewaydrinkingtrendswaxandwane,wemightallbedrinkingblendeddrinksagainverysoon.
HowtoMakeaBlendedDrink
Therearetwofactorstoasuccessfulblendeddrink:First,thedrinkshouldhaveacompletelyuniform,silky-smoothtexture.Thisistheonetimeyou’regoingtobeallowedtodrinkoutofawide(alsoknownasaturbo)straw,sothedrinkneedstobefreeoficechunksandabletoflowsmoothly.Thenextimportantdynamicinablendeddrinkisitsthickness:Thedrinkshouldneverbesothinthatitsloshesaroundintheglass;norshoulditbesothickthattheicecanbeseparatedfromtherestofthecocktailwhensuckeddownthroughastraw,leavingbehindapileofsnowyiceintheglass.
Yourmainweaponinthisbalancingactisthetypeoficeyouuse,andforblendeddrinksIuseonlycrushedorfinelycrackedice.Yes,thepointoftheblenderistopulverizeingredientswithitssharpmetalblades,butifyoustartwithwholecubes
andkeepyourfingerscrossedinthehopesthatyou’veusedexactlytherightamountoficeandthatitwillreachtheproperfineconsistency,you’reprobablyinforsomedisappointment.Assumingyourblendercanhandlewholecubesinthefirstplace.
Inabarsituation,youmighthavecrushediceonhand,butathome,youcanusethefoodprocessortocrushyourice(seepage176).Unfortunately,youcan’tmaketheactualblendeddrinkinthefoodprocessorbecauseoftheholeinthecenterofthebowl;liquidwillleakoutandyou’llhaveamessalloveryourcounter.Seriously,don’tbothertryingtomakeblendeddrinksinafoodprocessor.
Addyourdrinkingredientstotheblender,startitonthelowestpossiblespeed,andthenslowlyaddyourcrushedorfinelycrackediceandblend.(Putthelidon,yes.)I’dlovetogiveyouanexactquantityoficetouseinablendeddrink,butsomuchdependsontheotheringredients.Idoitslowly,byfeel,andbywatchingtheshapeofthecontentsintheblender.Theperfectamountoficewillproduceacentralvortex,withdistinctcurvesofdrinkflowingintoit,almostlikepillowsofdrinkfoldingintoeachother.Whenthere’snotenoughice,thecontentsjustslosharound;andwhenyou’vegottoomuchice,themixwilllookthickandflatintheblender,withnocurvesformingatall.
THEBLENDEROFDESIRE
Intheworldofcars,therearereallynicecars,andthenthereareItaliansportscars.Inthebarworld,therearegoodblenders,andthenthere’stheVitamix.Ifgiventhechoicebetweenthesetwo,Imightpickthecar,butI’mstillprettycrazyaboutmyVitamix.Iuseitforeverythingfromblendingdrinkstomakingsyrupsfromfibrousingredients(seepage97),andaftertenyears,itstillperformslikeachamp.ImayhavemistakenlycomparedittoafinelytunedItaliansportscar;it’sreallybuiltmorelikeatank.AndwhatIloveasmuchastheperformanceisthestory.
VitamixismadebyanAmericanfamilybusinessthat’sbeenatthesamethingforfourgenerationsnow;theirheadquartersareoutsideCleveland,Ohio.ThecurrentCEOisthegreat-granddaughteroffounderW.G.“Papa”Barnard.
Barnardstartedbysellingappliancesdoor-to-door,butmorenotably,hewasthefirsttocreateaninfomercialforTV,inthelate1940s.Givenhowubiquitousinfomercialsarenow,I’mnotsurewhyIthinkthisiscool,butIdo.ThebestpartisthatBarnardhadn’treallyanticipatedtheresponsetothecommercialandwasn’tquitereadytohandlethehundredsofcallsthatcamefloodinginafterhis(highlyeffective)pitch.Barnardspentthenextmanyhourscrouchedonhishotel-roombed,phoneinonehand,pencilintheother,takingdownorderafterorderonanotepad.Thatflowofordersdoesn’tseemtohavesloweddown.
Idon’tmessaroundwiththebar-specificlinethatVitamixmakes,astheyseemtobegearedmoretowardsmoothieshopsthantowardtheprofessionalbartender.InsteadIusewhatthekitchenuses,theProfessionalSeries200variable-speedblender.I’veneverbeenhappier.
PIÑACOLADA
Thepiñacoladaislikelythemostfamous,andinsomequartersmaybeeventhemostreviled,blendeddrink.Thedrink—rum,freshpineapplejuice,andcoconutcream—waspopularizedin1954atajet-setters’destination,theBeachcomberBaroftheCaribeHiltoninSanJuan,PuertoRico.
Whoactually“invented”thedrinkisindispute.Mostsources,includingHiltonpressreleases,creditbartenderRamón“Monchito”MarreroPérez,butanotherHiltonbartender,RicardoGracia,hasclaimedovertheyearsthatheinventedit.Inventionisatrickyterminthefoodanddrinkworld,becauseit’salmostneverpossibletopindownatimeandplacewherethreeingredientsweremixedtogetherforthefirsttime.TheNewYorkTimesmentionedonApril16,1950,that“DrinksintheWestIndiesrangefromMartinique’sfamousrumpunchtoCuba’spiñacolada(rum,pineapple,andcoconutmilk),”soclearlythedrinkpredatesMarrero’screation.
Twotechnologicaldevelopmentssecuredthestatusofthedrinkasaworldwidefavorite—theinventionofamethodforextractingcoconutcreamfromcoconutmeat,andtheinventionoftheblender.Earlyversionsofthedrinkweremadewithcoconutcreamobtainedthewaygenerationsoftropicalcookshaddoneit:Crackthecoconut,pryoutthemeat,shaveoffthebrownskin,choporgratethemeat,soakitinwater,squeezeouttheliquid,andthenwaitforthefat—thecream—torisetothetopsothecookcouldskimit.Alabor-intensiveprocesstobesure.TheUniversityofPuertoRico’sagriculturaldepartmentawardedagranttoaprofessorwhosucceededincreatingamechanizedprocessin1949,andultimatelytheCocoLópezcompanywasborn;itssuccessbecameintertwinedwiththepiñacolada.
Adecadeorsobeforetheprofessormadehisdiscovery,FredWaringperfectedhisWaringmixer.Waring,whowasalsoafamousbig-bandleader,hadpurchasedthedesignfromtheinventorsandimproveduponit.Theblenderbecamepopularthroughoutthebarandrestaurantworldaswellasamongconsumers.Thepiñacoladareceivedonemoreboosttoitspopularity,amusicalearwormthatcameoutin1979,butwe’dratherjustleavethatonealone.
WhenImakethisdrinkathome,Iliketobreakoutaspecialtooljustfortheoccasion:myvintage1950s-eraWaringblender.Itsbeehiveshapeandribbedglassblendercupjustlooksodamngoodwithafrostypiñacoladawhizzingaroundinside.
MAKES1DRINK
2oz/60mlagedrum
1oz/30mlfreshpineapplejuice11/2oz/45mlcreamofcoconut8oz/240mlcrushedice
1pineapplespearforgarnish
WINEGLASS
Combinetherum,pineapplejuice,creamofcoconut,andcrushediceinablenderandblenduntilsmooth.Serveinthewineglassandgarnishwiththepineapplespear.
MUDDLINGWiththeresurgenceofdrinkssuchastheMojitoandtheCaipirinhaoverthepastfifteenyears,we’veseenmuddlingrisefromnearobscuritytobecomepartofthepublicconsciousness.Muddleddrinksaresomehowseenas“fresher”bydrinkers,andI’mregularlyaskedto“muddle”mymargaritasandgimlets.Thesecustomersdon’tknowwhytheyprefertheirfruitpressedwithawoodenstickoverhavingitfreshlysqueezedbyajuicer;theyjustknowthey’veseenitdonebeforeandthat’sthewaythey’dlikeit.
Muddlingisnothingmorethanaquick-and-dirtymethodformakingsomeoftheingredientswe’vediscussedinpreviouschapters:fruitjuice,fruitpuree,andcompoundsyrups.That,inanutshell,prettymuchsumsupwhatmuddlingaccomplishesbehindthebar,andlittlemore.You’retryingtoextracttheflavorfromwhateveryou’remuddling—fruit,herb,orvegetable—butwithoutthebotherofgettingoutthekitchentoolsanddoingitàlaminute,whichisprofessionalkitchenlanguagefor“toorder.”
Thebenefitofmuddlingversusmakingtheseingredientsisthatit’sfasterifyou’remakingonlyoneortwodrinks:there’snoneedfor4cups/960mloftarragonsyrupifyou’remakingonlyacoupleoftarragondrinks.Thedisadvantageofmuddlingisthatit’slessaccurate;it’sdifficulttocontroltheamount,intensity,andconsistencyfromdaytoday,orfromdrinktodrink.Fourraspberriesmightgiveup1oz/30mloftheirpreciousjuiceonetimeand3/4oz/22.5mlthenext.
Insomecasesyou’llleavethesolidsinthedrinkaftermuddling,tobecomeanintegralpartofthecocktail.InaCaipirinha,forexample,themuddledlimesstayintheglass,tosomeextentforaesthetics,butalsosotheycancontinuecontributingtheirflavor.Inotherdrinks,you’lldouble-straintoremoveallthesolids,suchasthetinyseedsfromaraspberry.Dependingonwhatyou’remudding,you’lluseoneoftwomuddlingmethods,andaspecialtoolforeach.
HowtoMuddleHerbs
Muddlingherbsisadelicateprocess,andforthisyou’llusethediskendofyourbarspoon(seepage203).Wewanttopresstheherbsgentlyintosimplesyrupuntilthefragrantoilsarereleased.Youdon’twanttogrindandmashtheherbsbecauseyou’llbruisethemandreleasetheirchlorophyll,whichwilloxidizequicklyandbecomebitterandswampflavored.
Picktheleavesoffthestems(largestemsareunsightlyandusuallydon’tcontributemuchflavor),andpiletheminyourglass,alongwithyoursimplesyruporsugar.Usingthehammerordiskendofyourbarspoon,presstheleaves,movingthemaroundinthemixingvesselsotheyfoldover,andpressagain.Continuepressingandfoldingjustuntilyousmelltheherbs,andthenstop.Onceyoucatchthatwhiffoffreshherb,you’redone.
MOJITO
Sure,sincetheMojitobecamethemostpopulardrinkever,onceagain,it’salsobecomepopularforbartendersandself-describedcocktailgeekstocomplainaboutit:It’spedestrian,it’sthenewcosmopolitan,ittakestoolongtomake.
ButIrememberatimewhenwewerealljustbeginningtorediscovertheMojito.AnddespitethefactthatI’vemadeliterallythousandsofthemduringthecourseofmycareer,Istillhavefondmemoriesofthosesummerswhenwe’dallgatherinthekitchenwhilewewaitedforthegrilltoheatupanddiscoveredthedrinktogether,anewgenerationofMojitolovers.It’sanamazingdrinkwhenit’smaderight,andthat’sallyoureallyneedtoknow.
MAKES1DRINK
1bunchfreshspearmint
1/2oz/15ml2:1simplesyrup(seepage78)
2oz/60mlwhiterum
1oz/30mlfreshlimejuice(seepage22),plusthespentlimehalfCrushedice2oz/60mlchilledsodawater
CHILLEDPINTGLASS
Put12orsolargespearmintleavesinthebottomofthechilledpintglassandaddthesimplesyrup.Muddlethespearmintgentlytoreleasetheoils.Addtherum,limejuice,andthespentlimehalf.
Filltheglasswithcrushediceandfinishwiththesodawater.Servewithastraw.
MUDDLERSFORFRUIT
Fruit,unlikeherbs,benefitsfromtheuseofanactualmuddler.You’llsometimesseemuddlersnexttotheregisteratliquorstores—theylooklikeminiaturebaseballbats.Stayaway.Theydon’tperformthewayyouneedthemto,andusuallythey’refinishedwitheitherpaintorvarnish,whichcanflakeoffinyourdrink.
Instead,seekoutanaturalwoodmuddlerwithnofinishorstain.Thesecanbetreatedwithfood-grademineraloiltohelppreserveandprotectthenaturalbeautyofthewood.Ifyou’remuddlingfruitthatstains,suchasdarkberriesorcherries,thinkaboutusingaheavy-dutyfood-gradeplasticmuddler,madefromthesamematerialasacuttingboard.They’reeasytopopintothedishwasherandwon’tshowtheresultsofallyourpastwork.Ikeeponeofeachtypeofmuddleronhandatalltimes.
Whicheverstyleyouuse,itneedssomeweight,sothetoolcandoasmuchoftheworkaspossibleforyou.Havingalargeendandasmallendgivesyoutheflexibilitytomuddleindifferentsizeglasses.Andagoodmuddlerwillbelongenoughsothatitstandstallerthanyourmixingvessel;youshouldn’tneedtoreachyourfingersintotheglassinordertocrushyouringredients.
Whenitcomestowoodenmuddlers,Iwantsomeagilityinthereandnotjustabigbillyclubtobeattheingredientsintosubmissionwith.MyfavoritewoodenmuddlersaremadebyourfriendDavidNepoveatMisterMojito(www.mistermojito.com).He’sgotavarietyofreallycooldesigns,manyofwhichIown.Butmyall-timefavoriteofhisistheverysimpleandelegantMasterMuddler,whichisessentiallyalongtapereddowelthatlooksalotlikehalfofaFrenchrollingpin.
MisterMojitoalsomakesacontouredfood-gradeplasticmuddler,butmypersonalfavoriteistheBadAssMuddlermadebyCocktailKingdom(www.cocktailkingdom.com).It’sheavyandsturdyenoughtohandlebeingwashedinthedishwasher.Andit’sblack,whichmeansit’snevergoingtoshowstains,nomatterhowmanyraspberriesorcherriesIendupmuddlingwithitovertheyears.
HowtoMuddleFruit
Mostoften,you’llbemuddlingcitrus,limeinparticular,thoughothercitrusfruitcertainlycomesintoplay,dependingonthedrinkyou’remaking.Otherfruitthat’softenmuddledincludesberries,peaches,pineapples,grapes,and,hell,evencherrytomatoes.
Cutyourcitrusintoquarters;ifyou’reusingsomethinglarge,suchasanorangeorgrapefruit,goaheadandcutitintoeighths.Putthecitrusinyourglass,preferablypeel-sideup,andthenaddthesugar.Workthecitrusbypressingandtwistingitwiththemuddler,grindingthesugarintothepeel.Thesugaractsasanabrasiveandhelpsliberatethecitrusoilsandjuice.Asthejuiceisreleased,itwillformasyrupwiththesugar.Pressandtwistuntilyouseeanicesyrupformingandyousmellthefragranceofthecitruszest.Agoodbartenderuseseverysense,andyoursenseofsmellisoneofthemostcriticaltools.
CAIPIRINHA
Cachaçaisoneofthemostrusticspiritsintheworld.ThenationalliquorofBrazil,cachaçaismadefromthejuiceoffresh-pressedsugarcane,whichisthenfermentedanddistilled.Unlikerum,whichisusuallymadefrommolasses,cachaçaretainsthefresh,grassy,vegetalflavorsofthecanejuice.
Itwouldbetoughforcachaçatoclaimitspositionasthethird-most-consumedspiritintheworldifitweren’tforthesimple,peasant-likepreparationofadrinkknownasaCaipirinha.Withnothingmorethanalittlesugarandlimetoamelioratetheroughedgesfoundinmanycachaças,thisisonedrinkthat’smorethanthesumofitsparts.
MAKES1DRINK
1/2lime,quarteredlengthwise,andwhitemembraneremovedHeaping2tspsugar
2oz/60mlcachaçaCrushedorcrackediceCHILLEDOLD-FASHIONEDGLASS
Combinethe4limewedgesandsugarinthebottomoftheold-fashionedglass.Muddlethelimewedgeswiththesugartoreleasetheirjuicesandgrindtheiroilsfromthepeel.Addthecachaça.
Filltheglasswithcrushedorcrackediceandserve.
“MIXING”ABSINTHEAbsintheisananise-flavoredspiritdevelopedinthemid-1700sinSwitzerlandandintheFrenchJuraMountains;itgainedhugepopularityinFrenchcafésocietyduringtheBelleÉpoque.Butabsinthecontainedasmallamountofthujone,whichwasthought(incorrectly)tobehallucinogenic.Soin1915absinthewasbannedintheUnitedStatesandmuchofEurope,includingFrance.
AlmostacenturywentbybeforetheregulationscontrollingabsinthewerereinterpretedtoallowitssaleandconsumptionintheStates.Providedthattheabsinthecontainslessthan10partspermillionofthujone(acompoundinwormwood),absintheisokay.And,thankstosomeanalysisofpre-banabsinthes,weknowthat’sallthethujonetraditionalabsinthecontainedanyway.
Sodrinkersarenowdiscoveringtheproperwaytoenjoyabsinthe,whichinvolvesaslowdripofwateroverasugarcube,toaddatouchasweetnessandadilutionofbetweenthreeandfivetimesthevolumeofthespirit,dependingontheproofandpersonaltaste.Mostabsinthenowadaysisservedanddilutedwithasmallcarafeofwater,butinthegrandcafés,theywoulduseelaborateabsinthefountains,whichwerefancyurnswithmultiplespigotsthatwoulddispensethewaterinslowdrips.
ToServeAbsinthe
Fillyourglasswithabout11/4oz/37.5mlofabsinthe.Authenticabsintheglasseswilloftenhaveabulbatthebottom,whichholdstherightamount.Setyourabsinthespoon—aslotted,flat,trowel-likeutensil—usuallybeautifullyornamented,liketheglasses—acrossthetopoftheglassandsetaplainsugarcubeonthat.
Slowlydripbetween4and6oz/120to180mlofcoolwateroverthesugarcube,pausingtoletitbecomesaturated,andthencontinuingtodripwaterintotheglass.Youwanttotakeyourtimewiththis,ratherthansimplypouringthefullvolumeofwaterallatonce,becauseslowlydissolvingthesugarandcoaxingouttheoilsheld
insuspensionintheabsintheispartoftheritual.Asthewaterhitsthespirit,itformsanemulsionwiththoseoils,creatingalazycurlofmilkiness,knownasalouche.
Somereferencestoservingabsinthementionsoakingthesugarcubeintheabsinthe,ignitingit,andthenaddingittotheglass.Don’teverdothat.ThepracticecameaboutbecauseofsomehighlyinferiorspiritsthatwereproducedintheCzechRepublicinthe’90s.Calledabsinth(nofinale),theyweremostlyjustneutralspiritsflavoredwithherbalandotheroilsandweremorelikemouthwashthantrueabsinthe.Thesefakeabsinthesdidn’tlouche,sodrinkersconcoctedanothertypeofservingritual.It’sbestleftoutofthemodernbar,soskipthefireandsticktothedripmethoddescribedabove.
FLAMINGDRINKSAbigpartofbartendingistheater:It’sashow,andthere’snothingmoretheatricalorshowythansomeclownplayingwithfire,whichiswhythecocktailrepertoirecontainsafewfamousincendiarydrinks.Theflamethrowinginthesecocktailsdoesconvenientlycomewithfunctionality,however;it’sthewayweusefiretotransformingredientsanddevelopanddeepenflavors.
Mixingalcohol(whetherit’sinsideaglassorinsideyourbelly)andanopenflamecanspellextremedanger,andshouldgivethephraseDrinkresponsiblyawholenewmeaning.
FIRETOBURNALCOHOLANDBALANCEADRINK
TheblueblazerwassupposedlyinventedbySanFranciscobartenderandauthorJerryThomasbackinthelatenineteenthcentury,purportedlyattherequestofagrizzledgoldprospector,whowantedtobeimpressed.Thedrinkconsistsofhigh-proofScotchwhisky,water,sugar,andlemonpeel.Nothingimpressiveabouttheingredients;thesameonesgointotheworld’sleastexcitinghotcocktail,the
whiskeyskin.It’sthemixingmethodthatissomewhatjaw-dropping.You’llneedtofindcask-strengthScotchwhiskyforthis,between100and140proof.Anythinglessdoesn’tignitebelowaroomtemperatureofabout75°F/24°C.
Tomakeablueblazer,youneedtwoheat-proofmugswithhandles,preferablylargetankards.It’sagoodideatoprewarmthemugsbyfillingthemwithboilingwaterandlettingthemsitforafewminutes.Whenwarm,emptythemugsandaddboilingwaterandalittlesugartoone,whiskeytotheother,andlightthewhiskeyonfire.Youthenpourtheflamingwhiskeyintothewater-filledmug,andquicklypourthatmixturebackintothefirstmug.Repeatthisseveraltimes,eachtimemovingyourmugsfartherapart,sothattheburningliquidmakesanarcofblueflamebetweenthetwo.Afterseveralpours,extinguishbothmugsbycoveringonewiththebottomoftheother.Pourthehotmixtureintoafreshmugoratemperedwineglassandgarnishwithagenerouslengthoflemonpeel.Serve,andtakeabow.
Thethingsyouneedtorememberduringthisprocessare:
Longfireplacematchesarereallythesafestwaytolightthisthing,oranyflamingdrink,really,asitkeepsyourfingersasfarawayfromanopenflameaspossible.
Flamingalcoholcaneasilyigniteanythingcombustible,includingeyebrows,beards,andthelongblondehairoftheveryguestyou’reshowingofffor.Payattention.
Youreallyneedtouseheavymetalmugswithhandlesthatarebigenoughtokeepyourknucklesawayfromthecontents.Themugscangetveryhot,though,andit’snotokaytodropthemonthefloor,going“Jeez,that’shot.”
Ifyouwanttobeespeciallycareful,wearingovenmittsdoesn’tlookparticularlycool,buttheywillprotectyourforearmsfromfieryliquid.
Youshouldhoneyourpouringskillsbysimplyusingplainoldwaterbeforeyoutrythis.
OurfriendsatCocktailKingdommakesomeprettyawesomesilver-platedblueblazermugs,ifyoufeellikeinvesting.Oryoucanscourthethriftstores,estatesales,andonlineauctionsforsilvermugs.Theyusuallylooklikebigbeertankards.
BLUEBLAZER
ByJerryThomas
Personally,I’veneverfoundthecombinationofScotchandhotwaterallthatinterestingorappealing,butawholenewgenerationofbartendershasrediscoveredthiscocktail,sothere’sgottobesomethingtoit.HereisJerryThomas’soriginalrecipe.
MAKES1DRINK
2oz/60mlboilingwater
1tspsugar
2oz/60mlcask-strength(100-to140-proof)Scotchwhisky
1lemontwistforgarnish
2BLUEBLAZERMUGS6-OZ/180-MLTEMPEREDWINEGLASS
Prewarmyourblueblazermugswithboilingwaterforseveralminutes.Emptythemugs.
Mixthe2oz/60mlboilingwaterandsugarinonemug,andputthewhiskyintheother.Carefullyignitethewhisky,andwhileitisflaming,pourthewhiskyintothewater.Mixtheingredientsbypouringthembackandforthfromonemugtotheotherseveraltimes.Serveinthewineglassandgarnishwiththelemontwist.
FIREFORTOASTINGThecafébrûlotdoesn’thavetheblueblazer’sJerryThomaspedigree,butitisequallydramaticanddangerous.Asitsnameimplies,thisisacoffeedrink.ItwasinventedinNewOrleansandisstillservedintraditionalrestaurantssuchasGalatoire’sandAntoine’s.Cafébrûlotisreallymoreofamaîtred’-attablesidedrinkforrestaurantpatrons,ratherthanabartender’sdrink.Waitersmakeitinthesamewaytheymightprepareotherflamingclassics,suchascrêpesSuzetteorsteakDiane.Mybrother-in-lawJosephBrookeisquitethecelebritybartenderdowninLosAngeles,andhehappenstobethebrûlotexpertinourfamily.SoIaskedhimforhisadviceonthisone.
Tomakeacafébrûlot,youfirstneedtodragmysisteralloverLosAngelesCountylookingatestatesalesinordertoprocureabrûlotcauldron,whichisaroundedmetalchafingdishthatsitsoverasternoflame.Youaddwholespices(usuallycinnamonandcloves,butsometimescardamomaswell),sugar,brandy,andanorangeliqueur,suchasGrandMarnier.Thoseingredientsarecombinedinthebowl,lefttomaceratefor10to15minutes,andthenheatedwiththesterno.
Meanwhile,youandanin-lawpeelanorangeandalemon,eachinonelong,continuousspiral,alsoknownasahorse’sneck(seepage262),whileyouargueaboutwhomakesthebetterpeel.Leaveasmuchpithaspossibleintactonthepeel,asitwillhelpprovidesomestructuralsupportforlater.Youalsowanttomakethepeel’sedgesassmoothandevenaspossible,astoosharpofananglecouldresultinthepeelbreakingorsendingsplattersofhotboozeflyinginundesirabledirectionsasyoulugetheflamingliquiddownthepeel.Next,studtheorangepeelevery1in/2.5cmorsowithwholecloves,straightdownthemiddlelikethedividinglaneinaroad.Leavethelemonpeelunstuddedandputitinthecauldron.
Nowcomesthefunpart:Whilemysisteryellsatyoutonotburnthehousedown,ignitethehotliquorinthebowlwithalongfireplacematch,andstiritaroundwithasmallladletomix.Then,holdingtheorangepeelwiththelongesttongsyoucanfind,youladlespoonfulsoftheburningalcoholoverthepeel,sothatthealcoholcoursesdownitslength.Intheory,thistoaststheoilsinthepeel,addingmoreflavortothedrink.
Afteraminuteorsoofthis(anythinglongerisquitefranklytoohottohold,andinJoe’scase,itmeansthathe’sjustshowingoffforthecrowdagain),youpourstrongblackcoffeeintothemix,whichwillputouttheflames.Finally,youladlethecoffeeintodemitassecupsandserve.Majorbonuspointsifyouhave—asJoedoes—abrûlotladle,whichcontainsasmallstrainertofilteroutthebitsofspiceandpeelasyouladlethedrinkintothecups.
CAFÉBRÛLOT
MAKES4TO6DRINKS
1orange,peeledinasingle,long,continuousspiral
9wholecloves
1lemon,peeledinasingle,longcontinuousspiral11/2tbspsugar
1longcinnamonstick
3oz/90mlcognac
2oz/60mlGrandMarnier24oz/720mlhotfreshlybrewedstrongcoffeeBRÛLOTDEMITASSECUPS
Studtheorangepeelwiththecloves,placingthemabout1in/2.5cmapart,andsetaside.Inabrûlotcauldron,combinethelemonpeel,sugar,cinnamonstick,cognac,andGrandMarnier.Lighttheburnerandadjusttheflamesoit’slow.Cookfor2to3minutes,stirringwithaladletodissolvethesugarandwarmtheingredients.
Whenthemixtureiswarm,carefullyignitewithamatch.Whilethemixtureisflaming,holdthespiraledorangepeelwithverylongtongsoverthecauldron,ladletheflamingmixturedownthepeelintothebowlseveraltimes,andthendropthepeelintothecauldron.
Addthehotcoffee,stirtocombine,andladlethecafébrûlotintobrûlotordemitassecups,beingcarefultoleavethespicesandcitruspeelsbehindinthecauldron.Serveimmediately.
FIREASCARAMELIZATIONTOOLThere’sonemoredrink,newerthaneitherthecafébrûlotortheblueblazer,that’ssomethingofalegendhereinthePacificNorthwest.YoualmostneverhearcallsforitoutsideofOregon,butwithinthestatelineit’sthemostwell-knownofthedrinksthathaveoriginatedhere,andthat’stheSpanishcoffee.
Icanwalkfrommyapartmenttowherethedrinkwasfirstinventedinthe1970s,Huber’sCafe,arguablytheoldestrestaurantinPortland.Underneaththebarrel-vaultedstained-glassceilinginthebarroom,bartendersandwaitersmakehundredsoftheirfamedconcoctioneverynight.Theprocessisajoytowatchfromatechniqueperspective,andIsometimesfindmyselfseatedatthebaronwinterafternoonsonmydaysoff,writingandlazilywatchinginwonderasthesemastersoftheirsingle-drinkcraftmakeoneafteranother.
Itbeginswitha6-oz/180-mltemperedwineglass,whichismoistenedwithalimewedgeandbandedinsugar(seepage269).Next,151-proofrumandTripleSecarepouredinalongarcinthetxakoli(aSpanishwine)tradition,withtheglassheldlowandthebottleheldhighabovethehead.Andthenthemixtureissetalight.Twirlingthestembetweenthefingers,thebartenderanglestheglasstopointthefiretowardthesugaredrim,twirlingandswirlinguntilthesugarbeginstobubbleandcaramelize.
Kahlúaisthenaddedinalongstream,andtheglassistoppedoffwithstrongblackcoffeetoextinguishanyremainingflame.Alayerofcoldwhippedcreamisfloatedonthesurface,andthenthewholemixtureisfinishedwithfreshlygratednutmeg.It’sstrong,bright,acidic,andperfectfortheweatherweenjoysomuchuparoundtheseparts.
SPANISHCOFFEE
MAKES1DRINK
Sugarforrimmingtheglass
1limewedge
3/4oz/22.5ml151-proofrum1/2oz/15mlTripleSec11/2oz/45mlKahlúa3oz/90mlhotfreshlybrewedcoffeeLightlywhippedcream(seepage148)forgarnishFreshlygratednutmegforgarnish
6-OZ/180-MLTEMPEREDWINEGLASS
Putsomesugarinashallowbowl.Makeaslitinthelimewedge,andmoistentherimofthewineglasswithit.Makeabandofsugararoundtherim(seepage269).FilltheglasswiththerumandTripleSec,andlightwithamatch.
Holdingtheglassatanangle,heatthesugarusingtheflameuntilthesugarbeginstobubbleandcaramelize,about1minute.
AddtheKahlúaandcoffee,andfinishwithwhippedcreamandfreshlygratednutmegtoserve.
CHAPTERNO12
GARNISHING
FINISHINGTHECOCKTAILVISUALLYANDAROMATICALLY
Ofallthetopicsinbartendingthatarousespiriteddebate(ugh,nopunintended,Iswear),therearefewmorecontroversialthanthegarnishconversation.Guestsloveabeautifullygarnishedcocktail,whilemodernyoungmixologists,oftenconditionedtorespondtotheirguests’joywithdisdain,havebeguntospendlessandlessenergyonfinishingthedrink.AlthoughIapplaudthemodernist,minimalapproachintherightsituations,thereisatimeandaplaceforeverything.Andwhenitcomestogarnishing,thetimeisoften,andtheplaceisinyourdrink.
Andinyourmouth,andinyournose,andinyoureyesaswell.I’vebeenlookingforawaytoavoidtheoldcookingadage“Weeatwithoureyesfirst”whileorganizingthismaterial,butIdon’tknowifthere’sanywayaroundit.Cocktailsaresomethingthatare,mostoften,handedtousbysomeoneelse.Idon’tknowaboutyou,butwhenI’mhomealone,Idrinkmilkoutofthecarton,literallyandfiguratively.AbottleopenerforthebeerandacleanglassforthewhiskeyareabouttheonlyaccoutrementsIneed.
ButwhenI’moutandseatedatabarbeforedinner,Iorderacocktail.AndbeinghumanmeansthatIaminstinctivelyalittlewaryofthethingspeoplehandmetoingest.Soasthatdrinkiscomingacrossthebar,thereisalittleprehistoric,subconsciousthingthatkicksininsidemyhead,andit’soneoftworeactions:Ifthecocktaillooksappealingtothecavemanme,I’mgoingtobereadytodrinkit.Andifitdoesn’t,I’malreadyafraidtotakeasipbeforeIeventouchit.
Inthischapter,we’vebrokendowngarnishesintofivecategories.Thefirstwerefertoasdroppedgarnishes,whicharesomeofthesimplestandmostwell-knowntypesofgarnishoutthere.They’retypicallydroppedintothedrinkattheveryend,andtheyprettymuchjustsitthere,offeringverylittleintermsofflavororaroma.Theyareusuallyconsumedoncethedrinkisdone.
Thesecondcategorywe’llshowyouarethevisualgarnishes.They’reastepupincomplexityfromdroppedgarnishes,butthey’rethecatalogmodelsofthecocktailworld:theylookgreat,andusuallysmellprettynice,buttheydon’tofferawholelotintermsofsubstance.
Ourthirdclassofgarnishes,theutilitariangarnishes,arehardworkinglittleoptions,usuallyperchedonthesideoftheglass,waitingtobeused—justincaseyouneedthem.
Sometimesweusearimmedgarnishontheedgeoftheglass,eithersalt—asinthecaseofthemargarita—orsugar,asonewoulddowithalemondrop,ormypersonalfavorite,asidecar.
Andfinallywe’llintroduceyoutothemostcomplexclassofgarnishes,thearomaticgarnishes.Theydon’talwaysoffermuch—andsometimesnothingatall—intermsofvisualpresentation.Buttheyexciteyournoseandprepareyourpalateasyoulifttheglasstoyourlips.
DROPPEDGARNISHES
Seenbytheaveragedrinkerasmoreofabarsnackthanacrucialdrinkcomponent,cherries,olives,andonionsdon’treallygetmuchrespectthesedays.Youcanmostoftenfindthemsittingatroomtemperatureonabartopsomewhere,bathedinanunidentifiablegreasyorstickyliquid,whoseonlydefenseagainstthemanydirtyfingersthathavebeenplungedwithinisabacteria-inhospitablesaltorsugarcontent.Butsomebartenders,playersinatruecocktailrenaissance,haveleftnostoneunturnedintheirattentiontodetail.Atlast,thesehumbledroppedgarnishesarebeginningtogettheduerespecttheydeserve.
CHERRIES
Irememberfondlymyveryfirstcocktail.ItwasataHowardJohnsononaroadtripwithmyparents,andmymotherincludedmeintheroundofdrinkstheyorderedwhenthewaitercamebyforthefirsttime.MydrinkwasaRoyRogers,andwhenitarrived,Iwasthehappiestseven-year-oldintheworld,andallbecauseofthegarnish:abrightredmaraschinocherryskeweredbyalittlegreenplasticsword.
ThearchetypeofAmericancocktailcherriesis,infact,thatsamecherry.Whileit’subiquitous(there’soneinthebackofmyparents’refrigeratorthatIswearisfifteenyearsold),thismass-marketcherryhasbeenbringingartificialcolorandhigh-fructosesweetnesstocrappydrinkssincethe1920s.
Fortunatelyforus,wenowhavemanybetteroptionsavailable.AsuperiorversionoftheAmericanmaraschinoisonemadebyItalianproducerLuxardo,whomakesaliqueurmadefromMarascacherriesaswell.ThedifferencebetweentheseandtheAmericanversionisnightandday.Ratherthanableached-and-dyedzombiefoodproduct,thinkofpreservedsourcherriespackedinasyrupmadefromMarascacherrypits.Themajorsellingpointthesecherriescomewithisthattheyaredelicious;theonlydrawbackisthata12.7-oz/360-gjarispricey.
AnotheroptionthatmanyprofessionalbartenderssuchasmyselfusearepreservedAmarenacherries.Slightlylargerthan,andofaflavorsimilarto,theLuxardomaraschinos,thesearefreshsourAmarenacherriesthathavebeencandiedinsyrup.They’restillfairlyexpensivebutcanbefoundforroughlyhalfthepriceoftheLuxardos.
ImprovingonJarredCherries
OnetrickIliketoemploywithbothtypesofcherriesistodrainofftheirsyrupandthenfillthejarwithliquorsandletthemsitinthefridgebeforeusing.Todothis,simplydraintheliquidfromthecontentsofa12.7-oz/360-gjarofcherriesbysuspendingastraineroveracontainerorbowl,thendiscard.Returnthecherriestothejarandadd2oz/60mlofcognacoranotherbrandy,3/4oz/22.5mlofamaretto,and3/4oz/22.5mlofmaraschinoliqueur.Resealthejarandshakegentlytocombinetheingredients.Addalabelwiththedateandstorethejarinthefridgeforatleast1monthbeforeusing.
Brandyingfreshcherriesgivesthebartenderevenfinercontroloverthecocktail.Forbrandiedcherries,mostpeopleusesourcherries.Sourvarieties(mostlytheMontmorencyvariety)growonlyinpartsoftheMidwestandPacificNorthwest(Michigan,Oregon,andWashington,inparticular)forafleetinglyshortseason.So,manybartendersuseacannedMorellocherry,anothersourvariety.IliketheonesfromTraderJoe’s.Butfreshsweetcherriesalsomakeagreatbrandiedcherry.
DANIELSHOEMAKER’SBRANDIEDCHERRIES
MAKESENOUGHTOFILLABOUTFIVE1-QT/960-MLCANNINGJARS
Thosewhoareobsessedwithcontrollingeverystepofcocktailmakingoftenwanttomakeeverythingpossiblefromscratch.AndthereisnobodyIknowinthisbusinesswhoismoreobsessedthanmyfriendDanielShoemaker,owneroftheTeardropLoungehereinPortland,Oregon.Danielisaluckyman,becausehefoundahealthyoutletforhisobsessive-compulsivenature:heopenedabaratwhichjustabouteverythingishousemade,whichmeanswe’relucky,too.AtTeardropLounge,youcangethouse-pickledonions,house-tincturedrootsandbarks,house-madeAmerPicon,house-carbonatedtonicwater,house-maceratedmango-chipotlehotsauce,andjustaboutanythingelseyoucanthinkof.Amongthebestofthesecraftcocktailcomponentsarethebrandiedcherries,forwhichDanielgenerouslyshareshisrecipehere.
Oregonisbigcherrycountry,andDanielgetslate-harvestfruitfromtheHoodRiverValley,justeastofPortland.Thecherriestendtobebig,firm,andfullofsugar,whichisperfectforthesegarnishes.HeusuallyusestheLapinvariety,whichisdarkmagenta,butyoushouldchoosewhatevervarietylooksbestinyourregion.Thisrecipeisforsweetcherries,however,nottartpiecherries,liketheMontmorency.Itmakesalot,butbrandiedcherriesmakegreatgifts,soyouwon’tregrettheabundance.
5lb/2.25kgripe,firmsweetcherries1/2cup/45gwholejuniperberries1/2cup/45gwholeallspiceberries
6cinnamonsticks,lightlycrushed
3wholestaranise
5cups/1.1kgsugar
8oz/240mlfreshlemonjuice(seepage22),strained3cups/720mlwater
20oz/600mlbrandy12oz/360mlwhiterum
8oz/240mlbourbon
Clearawayanythingthatyoudon’twanttogetspatteredwithcherryjuice.Itspraysanditstains,evenwhenyou’recareful,sowearanoldT-shirt.Pulloffthestemsandpunchoutthepitsofthecherrieswithacherrypitter.(Atrickthatsomecooksuseistoputtheirhandsandthepitterinsideaverylargeplasticbagastheypit.Thebagwillcorralmuchofthejuice.)
Heattheovento200°F/95°C.Placefive1-qt/960-mlcanningjarsright-sideuponabakingsheetandputintheovenfor20minutes;youcanturnofftheheatandleavethemintheovenuntilreadytouse.Inasaucepan,simmerthelidsinwatertocoverfor2minutesandlaythemoutonpapertowelstodrain.
Dumpthejuniperberries,allspiceberries,cinnamonsticks,andstaraniseinthecenterofadoublelayerofcheeseclothandtieintoasecurebundle.Fillalargestockpotorcanningkettleaboutone-thirdfullofwaterandbringtoaboil.Thiswillbeyourwaterbathforcanningthecherries.
Meanwhile,combinethesugar,lemonjuice,andthe3cups/720mlwaterinanotherlargestockpot,atleast10qt/9.5L.Bringtoasimmer,stirringjustuntilthesugarisdissolved.Addthespicebundle,andcontinuetosimmerforabout5minutes.Addthecherries,stoppingwhenthepotisabouthalffull;you’llbeaddinganother5cups/1.2Lofliquidandyou’llneedtobeabletostirthecherrieswithoutthemspillingout.(You’llprobablyneedtocookthecherriesintwoorthreebatches.)
Usingtheslottedspoon,stirandfoldthecherriesontothemselvessothattheyareallsoakedinthesyrupandaregettingthoroughlywarmed.Youdon’twanttoactuallycookthecherries,justletthemabsorbthesyrup.Returntheliquidtoasimmer;pourinthebrandy,rum,andbourbon;andstirtomix.Whentheliquidisheatedthrough,takethepotofftheheat.(Besurenottoboiltheliquidbecauseyoudon’twanttocookofftoomuchalcohol.)
Usingawide-mouthfunnelorjarfillerandaslottedspoon,packeachcanningjarwithcherries,fillingittothetop.Givethejaragoodtaponthecountertosettlethefruitsothereareminimalairgaps.Ladlethehotsyrupintothejarsuptoabout1/2in/12mmfromtherim.Placetheflatpartofthelidonthejar,andscrewthebandonlightly.
Addthenextbatchofcherriestothehotsyrupremaininginthepotandheatthecherriesthrough.Transfertojars,topwithsyrup,andsealthejars.
Whenallthejarsarefilledandthelidsareon,putthejarsintotheboilingwaterbathinbatches,asmanyaswillfitwithoutcrowding.Thewatershouldcoverthejarsbyabout1in/2.5cm,sotopoffwithmoreboilingwaterifnecessary.Boilfor5minutes,andthenretrievethejars(Danielusessiliconeovenmittstoliftandtransferthejars).Setthemonthecountertocoolandletthesealsformproperly.You’llhearanicepopasthevacuumformsandthelidissuckeddown.Tightentheringsofallthejarsthathavesealedproperly.Youcanstoretheseatroomtemperature,awayfromheatandlight,forupto1year.Ifyouhaveanyjarsthatdidn’tsealproperly,simplykeepthemintherefrigeratorandusewithin2weeks.
CherryPitter
Pittingcherriesisunfortunatelyapainstaking,messychore.Ifyou’renotplanningonpittingmorethanafewcherries,I’vefoundthatplacingthefruitonthemouthofacleanbeerbottleandthenrunningthepitthroughwithachopstickisaneatlittletrickandjustthekindIlike—simpleyeteffective.Dobecarefulofthejuice,however,whichislikelytosprayaroundyourworkarea,andontoyourshirt.Itstains,whetheryou’reusingthisimprovisedmethodoracherrypitter.
Forbiggerbatches,you’regoingtowantacherrypitter.Traditionalcherrypittersarenothingmorethanastainless-steelplungersuspendedoveracircularbase,throughwhichthepitisejectedwhileholdingthefruitinplace.Thesplatterfactorishighwiththeseguys,butfortunatelyourfriendsatOXOGoodGripsmakeahandylittlemodelthatofferssomelevelofspraycontrol.ThisistheoneIreachforeverytime.
OLIVES
Whocanimaginethaticonicimageofamartiniinneonlights—whichhasbecometheuniversalsignfor“CocktailBar”allovertheworld—withoutanoliveonapick?It’skindaironic,then,thatolivesaren’treallyusedinmorethanoneortwococktails:themartini,ofcourse,andmaybeaBloodyMary.Themartinistillreignssupremeamongclassiccocktailenthusiasts,though,soweneedtomakesomechoicesaboutourolives.
StuffedorNot
Thefirstissueiswhethertousestuffedorunstuffedolives.Thekhaki-greenolivewiththeredpimentopeekingoutis,ofcourse,theclassic;mostoftheseareimportedfromSpain.Thereareplentyoflowest-common-denominatorcocktailolivesaround,butifyoubuyagoodbrand,theycanbedelicious—brinyandmeaty,withjustatinyhitofsmokinessfromthepepper.
Recently,thepimentohasseensomecompetition,witholivesgettingstuffedbyeverythingfromanchoviestoMarconaalmonds,hotchiles,andevenbluecheese.Ifyou’regoingtostuffsomethinginyourolive,theflavorandconsistencyshouldharmonizewiththecocktail,andafilmofcheesegreasefloatingontopofmydrinkissomethingIfindtobenothingshortofrepulsive.Ileavethesecheese-stuffedolivesinthesnacktrayandoutofthedrinks.
Tohavethemostcontroloverquality,stuffyourownolives.Buysomegoodgreen—orevenblack—olives,suchasCastelvetrano,Cerignola,orkalamata.Pitthem,usingahand-heldolivepitter,andthenstuffwithawholeorhalfMarconaalmond,somefire-roastedsweetpeppersorhotchiles,orevenasliverofpreservedlemon.
PittedorNot
Ifyouprefertoserveunstuffedolives,youstillneedtomakeadecisionaboutwhethertopittheoliveornot.Whileanunpittedolivelooksfarmoreattractivethanapittedone,Ifeeltheexpectationofmostguestsisthatmartiniolivesarepitted,whichcouldresultinanawkwardsituationshouldyouleaveanunpittedoliveinsomeone’sdrink.Nottomentiontheotherawkwardsituation:wheretoplacethepitonceit’spluckedfromthemouth.
HowManyOlives
Thenextoptiontoconsideristhenumberofolivestouseperdrink.WheneverIthinkabouthowmanyolivestouse,IrememberaquotefrombartenderPaulHarrington,whosewritingisthefoundationforeverythingIknowaboutcocktailstoday.OnhisseminalcocktailwebsitePaulsaid,inthelate1990s,“Oneoliveoronioniselegant,twoisproper,andthreeisameal.”Ithinkthatjustaboutsumsitup.
ToSpearorNottoSpear
Thenextconsiderationiswhetherornottoemployatoothpick.Mysimpleruleisthatdroppedgarnishesinquantitiesoftwoormorealwaysneedatoothpick,whileasingleoliveorcherrysimplysitsinthebottomwithout.WhenIdouseapick,
however,Iliketokeepthegarnishesoffsetononeendofthepick,givingtheguestalittle“handle”withwhichtopickupthesnack.
Therearemanyoptionsouttherefortoothpicks,fromthesimpletotheridiculous.Cocktailpicksrangefrombeautifulbamboospearstogolfteesandplasticbuccaneer’sswords.Butmylong-standingchoiceofgarnishtoothpickhasalwaysbeenawoodsandwichpick,aperfectsizeforthelargerolivesandonionsusedmostoftentoday.You’llfindtheseatsupplierslikeCountryCleanPaperSupplies(www.wesellcoffee.com).
StoringOlives
Droppingaroom-temperatureoliveintoanice-coldmartinishouldbeunthinkable,butit’sdonemoreoftenthannot.Tosolvethisproblem,wekeepourolivesinthefridge,pre-spearedwithpicksandreadytobeused.Anothertrickweemployatmybarisremovingthemfromtheirbrineandsoakingthemindryvermouth.Thebrineisthenfinestrainedtoremoveanysolids,andbottledwithapourspout,readytobemeasuredoutbytheteaspoonfordirtymartinis.Theoliveswilllastagood6monthsinthefridge.
HOWDOTHEPIMENTOSGETINTOTHEOLIVES?
Youmaynothavespentalotoftimethinkingabouthowthatlittlesliverofredpeppergetsintoanolive,butit’saninterestingbitoffood-productiontrivia.Becausehugevolumesofthesegetproducedeveryyear,itwouldbecostprohibitivetohand-stuffeacholivewithanactualsliceofpepper.Mostmodernolivesarestuffedwitha“compositepepper”:Roastedpimentosarepureedandboundtogetherwithsomethinglikeguargumandthencutintostrips.Thestripsareinjectedintotheolivesasthepitsarebeingpunchedout.Neattrick,thoughdotakenotethatguargumcantriggerreactionsinpeoplewhohavepeanutallergies.
ONIONS
It’sunclearhowandwhentheGibson—adrier,moregin-forwardvariationontheclassicmartini—wasfirstgarnishedwithitsiconiccocktailonion.HistoryhasledustounderstandthatthedrinkwascreatedinSanFranciscosometimeinthelatenineteenthcenturyattheBohemianClubforoneofitsmembers,Mr.WalterD.K.Gibson.TheearliestaccountsoftheGibsondon’tindicatethattheonionwasthedrink’sdefiningcharacteristic,butratherthenearomissionofvermouth.Thatsaid,there’snochallengingthefactthatthemodernGibsonisgarnishedwithacocktailonion.
Acocktailonionissimilartoanoliveinthatit’salsopickledinasalty,tangybrineandbringssomeofthosesameflavornotestothedrink.That’sprobablywhyyoureallyonlyseeonionsinthesamedrinksinwhichyoumightencounteranoliveinstead:atthebottomofamartiniorperchedonthesideofaBloodyMary.
TODDTHRASHER’SPICKLEDONIONS
ByToddThrasher,courtesyofImbibemagazine
MAKESABOUTENOUGHTOFILLONE1-PT/480-MLJAR
Truthbetold,IwasneverafanofcocktailonionsuntilItriedtheonionsmyfriendToddThrashermadehimselfathisbarPXinAlexandria,Virginia.They’reafarcryfromthefoul-smellingspecimensavailableatyourlocalliquorstore.
1tbsppicklingspice
24oz/720mlwarmfilteredwater32oz/960mldistilledChampagnevinegar2cups/400gsugar
2tbspkoshersalt
1lb/455gpearlonions,peeledTiethepicklingspiceinasachetofcheesecloth.Combinethewarmwater,vinegar,sugar,andsaltinalargenonreactivepotovermediumheat;stiruntilthesugariscompletelydissolved.Putthepicklingspiceinthevinegarsolution.Addtheonions,makingsuretheyarecompletelycoveredwithliquid.Bringtoaboilandcontinueboilingforonly1minute(it’simportanttolimittheboil;otherwisetheonionswilllosetheircrunchytexture).Removefromtheheat,andtransfertheonionsandliquidtoaclean1-pt/480-mlglassjarandletcoolovernight,covered,atroomtemperature.Theonionswillkeepintherefrigeratorforupto2months.
VISUALGARNISHESTherearesomegarnishesthatweusesimplybecausetheylooksodamnpretty.AsIsaidearlier,ofallthegarnishes,theytrulyarethecatalogmodel:theylookpretty,theymightevensmellnice,buttheydon’treallydomuchelse—andattheendofthedaythey’rejusttheretomaketheproductlookgood.
FRESHHERBSANDFLOWERS
Atallsprigoffreshherbsrisingfromaglass,orsomedelicateflowerpetalsscatteredonthesurfaceofacocktailcanbestunning,intherightcircumstances.Butherbandflowergarnishesreallyareaboutlooksratherthanflavororfragrance.Ifit’sflavoryou’regoingfor,you’llneedtomuddlethemormakeasyrupwiththeminordertoincorporatethemintothedrink.Visualperfectioniswhatyou’relookingforhere,somakesurethat’sthekeytoyourselection.
ChoosingHerbsandFlowersforGarnish
Thefirstthingtoascertainiswhetheryourherborflowerisactuallyedible.Notallherbsareculinary,andsomeflowersaretoxic,andyoudon’twantanythingthat’sbeentreatedwithpesticides.Sodon’tjustplucksomethingfromafieldwithoutknowingexactlywhatitis.
Thebestscenario,ofcourse,istohaveyourowngarden,whereyoucangroworganicallytheherbsandflowersyouliketouse,andpickthemwhenthey’reinperfectcondition.Mostpeopledon’thavethespaceforthat,andothersaren’tquitesodedicatedtofreshherbs.(Me,Ifallintobothcamps.)So,secondtothat,findagoodorganicgroweratyourlocalfarmers’market.Developaworkingrelationshipwiththem,andplanyourmenuaroundtheavailabilityoftheiringredients.Aspecialtygrocerwilloftenhavefreshherbsandedibleflowers,butifallyoucanfindarethedrearyherbsfoldedintoaplasticclamshellpack,Iwouldseriouslyconsidermakingadifferentdrink.
TheherbsIseemostoftenincocktailsasgarnishesarespearmint,rosemary,lavender,cilantro,tarragon,lemonverbena,lovage(whichtastesabitlikecelery),sage,thyme,andevenborage,whichhasstrikingblueflowersonslightlypricklystemsandtasteslikecucumber.BoragewasthetraditionalgarnishforaPimm’scupbeforecucumbertookoverbecauseofitsmuchwideravailability.
Edibleflowersaregenerallyfloatedonthetopofadrink.Blossomsthatareappropriateforcocktailsincludenasturtiums,pansies,hibiscus,roses(thepetals),violets,andevensquashblossoms,whichIhaveseenbeautifullybalancedatopsomeverybaroqueBloodyMarysovertheyears.
Therearethreetechniquesforgarnishingwithherbsandflowers:
Composed
Hereyou’regoingfordelicacy,forexamplethreetarragonleavesarrangedinastarpatternonthesurfaceofthedrink,orafewtinyrosepetals,orafinechiffonadeofsageorbasil.Youneedacocktailwithenoughconsistencytoallowtheherbsorpetalstofloat,soinmostcases,thistypeofgarnishwillbeaddedtothetopofanegg-whitecocktail.
Sprig
Thistypeofgarnishisstraightforward.Chooseanattractivesprigthat’stallenoughtostandatleast2in/5cmabovetherimoftheglass.Goodchoicesforthistypeofgarnisharestalkierherbs,suchasrosemary,lavender,orsomethingalongthelinesofachiveblossomoranotherbloomingherb.
Bouquet
Iusethismethodmainlyforspearmint,thoughthetechniquecouldalsobeusedforbasil,cilantro,parsley,orotherleafyherbs.Ifusingmint,pickthetoplengthsfromabout8sprigs,gatherthemtogetherbythestemsintoatightbunch,andgentlysqueezetheleavestolightlycrushthemandreleasetheirfragrance.Theninsertthebunchintothedrinksothatthestemsstaysecurelylodgedinthecocktail.Ifyou’reusingcrushedice,pokeaholeintheicewithachopstick,nestlethebouquetintothehole,andtheninsertyourcocktailstrawrightthroughthemiddleoftheherbs.Thisgenerousbouquetlooksgreatandalsoprovidesawonderful,fragrantexperienceasyoubringthestrawtowardyourlipstotakeasip.
KeepingHerbsandFlowersFresh
Youshouldgiveyourherbsaquickrinseandtheneitherpatdrygentlywithpapertowelsorspininasaladspinner.Storingfreshherbscanbeachallenge,thoughrosemaryandthymearefairlyhardy.Iliketowrapherbslooselyinabarelydamppapertowelandthentuckthatintoaplasticstoragecontainerandkeepitinthe
fridge.Flowersareevenmoredelicatethanherbs.Becauseyou’reusingflowerthathavenotbeensprayedwithpesticides,youdon’treallyneedtorinsethem.Justkeepthemcoolandmoistbystoringthemasyoudoherbs.
CITRUSTWIST
Lookingsomethinglikeastubbyshoestring,thecitrustwistisusuallycurledoverthelipofaglass,suchasahighball;tiedintoaknotanddroppedintothedrinkitself,asinamartini;or,lessfrequently,stretchedoverthetopoftheglass,lookingsomethinglikethesquiggleonaHostesscupcake.
Twistsareattractive,buttheydon’treallyaddmuchinthewayoffragranceorflavor.Forspirit-drivendrinks,includingamartini,Itendtopreferthewidercitruspeel(seepage274),soIcanIexpresstheoilsoverthesurfaceofthedrink.Thetwistismainlyaboutlooks.Choosefruitwiththick,pebblyskinforyourtwists.
ToolsforCuttingCitrusTwists
Tuckedawayinakitchendrawer,youmightfind—andbetemptedtouse—atoolcalledazester,whichhasarowofsmallholesalongtheendofabluntblade.Draggingthebladeacrossapieceofcitruswillproducethinstripsofzest,buttheywon’tberobustenoughorshapedrighttouseasatwist.Thecorrecttoolforthisjobiscalledachannelknife,availableforcheapatjustaboutanykitchensupplystore.Achannelknifehasonedeep,V-shapednotchonthebluntblade,anditproducesatruejuliennestripofcitruspeel,whenusedcorrectly.
MyfavoritechannelknifeisthePro-Touch,withaplastic-handle,madebyMessermeister,althoughVictorinoxmakesagoodmodelwithawoodhandleaswell.
HowtoCutaTwist
First,cutoffoneendofthefruittoexposethewhitepithlayer,sotheknifecangetagoodpurchaseonthepeel.Placethenotchofthechannelknifeattheexposededge,digthebladeintothepith,andbegintoturnthefruit.Aimtheknifesothatyou’reworkingaroundthe“latitude”ofthefruit,nottiptotip,asyouwouldwhencuttingawidestripofpeel.Peelthelengthoftwistyouwant,andthentrimtheendsneatlywithaparingknife.Withpractice,youcanremovetheentirepeelthisway,slowlyturningthefruitlikealatheasthepeelemergesfromtheslottedbladeinonelong,continuousspiral.
HORSE’SNECK
Anotherspiraledcitrus-peelgarnishinthebartender’srepertoireisthenearlyextincthorse’sneck.Originallydesignedasthegarnishforthedrinkofthesamename,it’sessentiallythelong,widespiralpeelofawholelemon,wrappedaroundtheinsideofacollinsglassandfinishedwitheitherbrandy,bourbon,orryeandgingerale.It’snotreallythatexcitingadrink,butthegarnishiswhatmakesorbreaksit.
Unlessyou’reparticularlypassionateaboutdrinkingyourliquorwithgingerale,you’reprobablygoingtousethehorse’sneckasagarnishinotherlongdrinksinstead.Itworksparticularlywellwithorangepeel,andIloveitintalltiki-styledrinkspouredovercrushedice,and,ofcourse,CafeBrûlot.
HowtoMakeaHorse’sNeck
Tomakethehorse’sneck,startbytrimmingeitherend(stemorstylar)ofacitrusfruitwithyourknife.Usingahorizontal,orY,peeler,carefullypeelawidespiral,startingatthetrimmedend,aroundtheentirefruit,sparingnopeel.Youshouldbeleftwithabarelemoninonehandandanentirespiralpeelintheother.
Therearetwooptionswhenitcomestogettingthepeelintothedrink.Youcancurlthepeelaroundtheinsideoftheemptyglassandslowlyfillwithicewhilemaintainingthepeel’splacementwithachopstickorbarspoon,oryoucanslowlyguidethepeelintothedrink,carefullyworkingitbetweenthecocktailandthesideoftheglasswithyourchopstickorbarspoon.Besuretoleavethelast1in/2.5cmofpeelexposed,andtryyourbesttohookitaroundtherimoftheglass.Ifpossible,cutasmallnotchintotheendofthepeeltofacilitatethis.
CITRUSWHEEL
Ironically,theleastpracticalofthecitrusgarnishesaretheonesyouseemostofteninglossymagazinesandcoffeetablecocktailbooks.Wheelsareprettyandmakeanimpact,buttheydon’treallyaddmuchtothedrink.
Therearetwotypesofcitruswheel:thickandthin.Athickwheelsitsperchedontherimoftheglasslookingverypretty,butgenerallytooawkwardtobepickedupandsqueezed.ThisiswhyIthinkofwheelsasvisualgarnishesandnotutilitarian.Nobodywantstodealwiththemessonceawheelhasbeensqueezed.Athinwheelisdesignedtobeadelicateelementthatfloatsonthesurfaceofablendeddrink.
ToolsforCuttingCitrusWheels
Fornormaluse,Ialwaysrelyona4-in/10-cmserratedparingknifemadebyKuhnRikon.Itcomeswithaplasticsheath,soIcantossitinmytoolbagwithoutworryingaboutitgettingdullordamagingmyotherequipment.Plusitcomesinavarietyofbrightcolors,soI’musuallyfairlycertainaboutwhichoneismineattheendofthenight.
Forbiggerjobs,orfortrimmingotherlargefruit,suchasgrapefruitsandpineapples,IrelyonwhatwerefertoastheSandwichSword:a9-in/23-cm,serrated,offsetbreadknifewithaplastichandle,liketheonesusedtohalvesandwichesinjustaboutanydeliintheworld.They’recheapandmadebyavarietyoffood-servicecompanies.Onceyou’vehandledoneforawhile,itcanbequitenimbleandyoumightbesurprisedattheaccuracyyoucaneffectoneventhemostdelicateofgarnishes.
HowtoCutCitrusWheels
Forathickwheel,trimoffbothendsofthefruitandthencutthewholefruitcrosswiseinto1/4-in/6-mmslices.Cutonesmallslitjustthroughtherind,butnotallthewayintotheinterior.Thisiswhereyou’llattachthewheeltotherimoftheglass.Ashallowcutlikethisallowsthewheeltositproudlyontherim,whereasadeepercutwouldmeanthewheelslidesfartherdownontherim,asloppyanddepressinggarnish.
Tomakeathinwheel,cutthefruitcrosswiseintoverythinbutevenslices.Inthiscase,youdowanttocuttheslitallthewaythroughtothecenteroftheslice.Pullonesideoftheslitforwardandtheothersidebackwardtocreate“feet”sotheslicecanbalanceupright—itshouldlookabitlikealooponarollercoaster.
Forallcitruswheels,aswellaswedges(seepage266),itgoeswithoutsayingthatyouneedtoflickoutanddiscardalltheseeds.
PINEAPPLEGARNISHES
Eventhoughapineapplespearortriangleistheoreticallyedible,itsmainfunctionistoaddvisualdramatothedrink.Forthatreason,wealwaysleavethepeelon.
HowtoCutPineappleTriangles
Cutoffthebaseandtopleavesofyourpineappleanddiscardthem.Cutthepineapplecrosswiseinto3/4-in/2-cmslices,tocreatedisks.Cuteachdiskinhalf,andthencutthehalvesintoquarters,andthequartersintoeighths.
Youthenneedtonotchthetrianglessothattheysitontherim.Tomakethetrianglesitinplanewiththesideoftheglass,cutyournotchstraightinfromthepoint.Toallowthetriangletositatanangleontheglass,makeyourcutpartwayuponeside,ratherthandirectlyatthepoint.Thechoicedependsonthesizeandshapeofglass,andthevisualpresentationyou’regoingfor.
HowtoCutPineappleSpears
Cutoffthebaseandtopleavesofyourpineappleanddiscardthem.Cutthepineappleinhalflengthwise.Layonehalf,cut-sidedown,onthesurfaceandcutinhalflengthwiseagain,tomakequarters.Cuteachquarterinhalflengthwise,togiveyoueighths.Ifyou’vegotalargepineapple,makeonemorecutsothatyouhaveaslenderspear.
Toputanicefinishonthespears,cutoff1/2to3/4in/12mmto2cmoftheinneredgeofthespear,toremovethehardcore.Thespearwilllookmorepolishedandwillbemuchmoreenjoyabletoeatifyourguestdecidestotakeabite.
StoringPineappleGarnishes
Trynottocutpineapplemorethan1hourahead,oritwilldryout.Storethegarnishesinanairtightcontainerinthefridge,andjustpullthemoutasyouneedthem.
UTILITARIANGARNISHESThisthirdcategoryofgarnishisalittlemorehard-workingthandroppedgarnishesandvisualgarnishes.Notonlydoesthisgarnishneedtolookappetizing,italsomightpotentiallybecomeintegratedintotheflavorofthedrinkatsomepoint,soyou’rereallyworkingitfromtwoangleshere.
CITRUSWEDGES
Thereisn’tmuchintheworldIfindlesssatisfyingthanorderingaginandtonic,andreceivingahealthydoseofbracinggin,asolidglugoftonicwater,andatinylimpchunkoflimefloatingontop.You’remostlikelytobeservedthis“garnish,”roughlythesizeofababy’sthumb,atballgames,aboardairplanes,andatjustaboutanybarfeaturingmorethanonetelevision.
Apropercitruswedgeisfreshlycut,glisteningwithjuices,and,withanyluck,perfectlybalancedontheedgeoftheglass.Itisanoption,anaccoutrement,aflavorfulaccessory.Thedrinkerishopefullygoingtotastethedrinkbeforemakingthedecisiontouseordiscardthecitrusgarnish,butifit’sgoingtobethere,thenplease,let’smakeitanattractiveoption.
You’refinishingyourcocktailwithabig,juicywedgeoflime,andit’sjustbeggingtobesqueezedintothedrink—orisit?Therearetwowaystogowiththis,andyoujustneedtodecidewhichwaymakessensetoyou.Evenmorethanacocktailflavorissue,squeezingisaserviceandhospitalityissue.Squeezingthewedgeforyourguest,andthendroppingthespentfruitintothedrinktoreleaseabitmoreflavorandtosignaltheflavorsinthedrink,meansyou’redoingtheworkfortheguest,andyouaretheonewhosefingersgetmessy.
Butleavingthewedgeforyourguesttosqueezeallowshertomakethechoice,hopefullyaftertastingthedrink.Formanyyears,Isqueezedasacourtesy,butI’dalsousedtheothermethod,andI’dseensomanyguestsremovethewedgeandnot
addittothedrinkthatI’vechangedmyapproach.Inowbalancethewedgeontherimandleaveittotheguesttofinishthejob,thoughtfullyprovidedwithacocktailnapkin,ofcourse.
HowtoChooseCitrusFruitforWedges
Whileyoudowantyourwedgetohaveashiny,colorfulskin,themostimportantpartofacitrusthatisintendedforawedgeisitsinterior.Plump,juicy,andeasytosqueezewinoutoverthick-skinnedandpebbly,andoftenareatodds;it’sraretofindalimeorlemonwiththickskinthat’sextremelyjuicy.Choosefruitthatfeelsheavyforitssize,doesn’tgivetooeasilywhenyousqueezeit,yetfeelslikethere’snottoomuchskinandpithhidingunderneaththesurface.
HowtoCutaLengthwiseCitrusWedge
Alengthwisewedgetakesadvantageofalargesurfaceareaofskin,makingithospitabletothedrinkerwhoisabouttogiveitasqueeze.It’skindoftheultimateutilitariangarnish—fairlyeasyontheeyes,buteveneasieronthefingers.Youknowwhatit’sfor,anditmakesnopretenseaboutbeingotherwise.IfinditsuitablefordrinkssuchasrumandCokes.
Trimanyexcessoffofthestemandstylarends.You’renotactuallycuttingintothefruit;youjustwanttoroundtheends,followingthenaturalcurveofthefruit.Youtrimoffjusttheactualstemandthenippleontheotherend.Next,cutthefruitinhalflengthwise.Usingthepointofyourknife,scoretheinsideofeachhalfabouthalfwaythroughrightinthecenter,cuttingallthewaythroughtheflesh,butstoppingatthepeel.Thiswillendupbeingthenotchineachgarnish;doingitonceoneachhalfmeansyoudon’thavetoscorethewedgesindividually.Cuteachhalflengthwiseinhalfagain,orforlargerfruit,cuteachhalflengthwiseintothirdsorquarters.Smalllimeswillyieldfoursegments,andlargelimes,lemons,andorangeswillyielduptoeightperfruit.
HowtoMakeaCross-CutWedge
Across-cutgarnishisessentiallyafathalfwheel,anditputseachwonderfullytranslucentcitrussegmentondisplay.Tobegin,halvethefruitlengthwise.Layeachhalfcut-sidedown,andtrimofftheendstoneatentheshape.Cutcrosswiseintothickslices.Ifyou’reusinglargeorangesorgrapefruits,awedgefromahalffruitwillbetoobig,socutthefruitintoquarters,andthencutonecrosswiseintowedges.Cuta1/4-in/6-mmnotchinthecenterofeachwedge,foralignmentinlinewiththeplaneoftheglass,oratanangleforanoffsetperch.
WHIPPEDCREAM
Whippedcreamisabeautifulandelegantgarnishusedtofinishcoffee-basedcocktails,mostfamouslyIrishcoffee.Tolearnhowtowhipcream,seepage148.
RIMMEDGARNISHES
NosportsbarorchainMexicanrestaurantwouldbecompletewithoutoneofthoseglass-rimmercaddies.YouknowwhatI’mtalkingabout;it’saroundblackplasticthingthatfoldsouttorevealthreecompartments:oneforsalt,oneforsugar,andonethatholdsakindofplasticspongethatyousoakwithRose’sSweetenedLimeJuice.Thebartendermashesthemouthoftheglassintothestickysponge,removesanyfruitfliesfromtherim,andthenpoundsitintothecrustysaltorsugaruntilthe
lipiscoatedinakindoflimey-saltyorlimey-sugarygoo.WehadoneatthebarIworkedinrightaftercollege,andIcanguaranteeyouithasn’tbeenwashedsinceIleft.
Gettingaperfectsaltorsugarrimonthelipofaglassrequirescarefulattentiontotechnique,butonceyou’vemasteredit,theprocessisasnap.Theordergoessomethinglikethis:
1.Invertglass.
2.Moistenrim.
3.Applysaltorsugar.
4.Taptodislodgeexcess.
Tohelpgivesomesenseofordertothemethod,herearesomedo’sanddon’tsofpreparingrimmedglassware.
DO DON’T
usefreshlycutcitrustomoistentherimoftheglass.
prepareashallowdishofsimplesyruporlimecordial,assomebookswillinstructyoutodo.
chooseacomplementaryflavorofcitruswhenmoisteningtherim.Forexample,alimerimforamargarita,lemonororangeforasidecar.
betemptedtousegrenadineoranyothersyrupformoisteningtherim.Thiswillresultinadrippymess.
bemeticulousinmoisteningtherim;anyareastouchedbycitrusjuicewillbecoatedinsaltandsugar,whileanyareasnotcoatedwillbebare.
useanythingbutperfectlydriedglassware,asanymoistureontheglasswillpickupsaltflakesorsugarcrystalsinplacesnotintendedtoberimmed.
usekoshersalt,seasalt,oranyothersaltwithlargeflakes.
useordinarytablesaltorso-calledmargaritasalt,whichisnothingmorethanoverpricedkoshersalt.
usetablesugar,unbleached usebrown,muscovado,superfine,
usetablesugar,unbleachedsugar,oranyotherdrysugarwithlargecrystals,suchasturbinado.
usebrown,muscovado,superfine,orpowderedsugar.
bevigilantaboutkeepingtherimawayfromthecontentsofthedrink.
allowsaltorsugarontheinterioroftheglass;onlytheverytopoftherimorinabandaroundtheoutside.
Thereareessentiallytwotypesofclassicrims:onewherethesaltorsugarareperfectlybalancedontheverytipoftheglass,whichwecallalip;andonewheretheexterioroftheglassiswrappedina1/2-to3/4-in/12-mmto2-cmbeltofsaltorsugar,whichwerefertoasaband.Theformerisbestsuitedtodrinksservedwithoutice,asitiseasilydisturbed;thelatterisourdefaultfordrinksservedontherocks.
Foreach,you’llneedashallowbowloraplate(Ipreferabowl)filledwithatleast1/2in/12mmofsaltorsugar.Afterpouringthesaltorsugarintothebowl,shakeitgentlytoevenlydistributethecontentssothatit’scompletelylevel;dothiseverytimeanewrimistobeproduced.Oncethesaltorsugarbeginsclumpingtogetherandanevendistributionisnolongerpossible,discardandstartoverwithacleanbowl.
HowtoRimaLip
Forthisyou’llneedanopenpieceofcitruscutalongtheequator.Inverttheglass,holdthecutcitrusinonehand,andspintheglasssothejuiceringsjusttheveryedgeoftherim.Gentlydiptheedgeoftheglassintothedishofsaltorsugarandtap.Turnandtap,turnandtapuntilyou’veworkedyourwayaroundtheglass,achievinguniformcoverage.Nowholdtheglassoverthesinkandtapitwithyourhandtodislodgeanyexcess.Youwantarimthat’sjustafewgrainsdeep,withanythingbelowtheedgeoftherimfreeofsaltorsugar.
HowtoCreateaBand
Thegoalhereistocreatearimthatwon’tbedisturbedwhenyouaddtheiceddrinktotheglass—justalittleflavoringandtextureontheguest’slowerlipasshesipsthedrink.Wewanttoavoidintroducingsaltoradditionalsugartothecocktailitselfatallcosts.
Slipaslitwedgeofcitrus(seepage266)overtherimandturntheglass,inessencewipingabandofmoistureontheinsideandoutsideoftheglass;thebandwillbeaswideasthewedgeisdeep.Nowrolltheglassinadishofsaltorsugarsoyoucreateawell-definedbandontheoutside;taptoreleaseanyexcess.
MARGARITA
Tosaltornottosalt,thatisthequestion.It’sbelievedthatoriginally,thesaltedrim,whichisindeliblylinkedwithtequila,wasprovidedtomaskthetasteofinferiorspirits.Whilemanybartendershavebeguntoshowdisdainforthesaltedrimaswe’vediscoveredthebeautyofhandmadeartisantequilas,thefactstillremainsthatthevastmajorityofmargaritadrinkersdemandasaltedrimwiththeircocktail.Andifthat’sthewayit’sgoingtobe,youmightaswellgivethemaperfectlysaltedrimandaperfectlymademargaritatogowithit.
MAKES1DRINK
Saltforrimmingtheglass11/2oz/45mlsilvertequila3/4oz/22.5mlCointreau3/4oz/22.5mlfreshlimejuice1tsp/5ml2:1simplesyrup(seepage78)
IcecubesforshakingCrackediceforserving
OLD-FASHIONEDGLASS
Rimthelipoftheold-fashionedglasswithsalt(seepage269).Shakethetequila,Cointreau,limejuice,andsimplesyruptogetherinacocktailshakerfilledwithicecubes.Strainintotheglassfilledwithcrackediceandserve.
AROMATICGARNISHESThemostsubtleandcomplexgarnishessitlightlyonthesurfaceofthedrink,providinganenhancedolfactoryexperience,butoftenlittletonothinginthewayofvisualpresentation.Thesearetheblackdiamondgarnishes,theadvancedlevelofgarnishingthatrequiressomethoughtand,asalways,attentiontodetail.
CITRUSPEEL
Whenyougentlysqueezeawideswathofcitruspeeloverthesurfaceofthedrink,youexpressitsoilsoverthesurfaceofthecocktail,addingsomeperfumetothedrink.Therearefewcocktailsthatdon’tbenefitfromalayeroflight,aromaticcitrusoilontheirsurface—especiallyspirit-drivencocktails.Sothisisoneofthemostessentialgarnishingtechniquesoutthere.
ChoosingFruitforMakingPeels
Lookforlargerfruit—whichhasmoresurfacearea—witharough,pebbledsurface(asopposedtosmaller,smooth-skinnedfruit).Thiscolorfulouterskiniscalledtheflavedo,whichcontainsessentialoils,wax,fattyacids,andlimonene,afragrance-producingcompound.Incookingterminology,thispartoftheskiniscalledthezest.Thisiswhatwe’llbesqueezingoverthesurfaceofthedrink.Whenselectingfruit,squeezeitgently;itshouldfeelfirmandtheskinshouldfeelthick.Anddefinitelychooseorganicifpossible;inanycase,rinsethefruitwellbeforecuttingyourgarnish.
ToolsforCuttingPeels
Therearetwotypesoffruitandvegetablepeelersonthemarket:verticalandhorizontal.Theverticalpeeleristhetraditionallong-handledpeeleryou’veundoubtedlyencounteredatsomepointinyourlife,anditsorientationmakesitperfectlysuitedtopeelinglongvegetablesandfruits,suchascarrotsandcucumbers,asitplacesthearmsandhandsintoanaturalpositionfordoingso.
Thehorizontalpeeler,sometimescalledaYpeeler,isdesignedtocomfortablypeelroundfruitsandvegetables,suchaspotatoesand,inourcase,citrusfruits.Thehandle’sorientationplacesthearmsinamorenaturalpositionforpeelingfruitsandvegetablesofthissizeandshape.
MyfavoriteYpeelerismadebyOXOGoodGrips.Theyalsomakeaso-called“Pro”versionofthispeeler,availableforafewextrabucks.ButI’vefoundittobelessergonomicallycomfortablethanthestandardversion,whichistheoneIuse.
Somechefslikeusingapeelerwithaceramicblade,butnotme.They’reextremelysharp,andthebladeisshallow,whichmakesithardtocontrol.Beingabletomaintainprecisecontroloverthebladeisimportantnotjustfortheappearanceofyourpeels,butalsoforthesafetyofyourfingertips.Nottofreakyououtoranything,butifyoupeelenoughfruit,theoddsaregoodthatonedayyou’regoingtolopoffthetopofoneofyourfingers.Ifindthatthishappensmorefrequentlywithceramicpeelers.Nottomentionthatceramicbladesarefairlyfragileandcan’tstanduptobeingfrequentlytossedinabarbag.
HowtoCutaCitrusPeel
Yourgoalistocreateagenerous,evenribbonofpeel,withoutjaggededgesandwithenoughofthewhitepithunderneathtogivethepeelsomestructureandfirmness.Holdthefruitfirmlyinyournondominanthandandfirmlydragthepeelerlengthwise—fromstemtostylar—inonefirmstroke.Trynottostopandstart,whichcancreateripplededges.Peelingtiptotipgivesyouthelongestpeelsandalsousesthefruit’ssurfacemoreefficiently,formaximumyield.
HowtoGarnishwithaPeel
Simplydroppingapieceofparedcitruspeelintoadrinkdoesnothingbutaddaspotofcolor—itsoilneedstobeforcedoutsothattheoilcoatsthesurfaceofthedrink.Positionthepeeloverthedrink,colored-sidedown.Squeezetheshortendstogetherbetweenyourthumbandmiddlefinger,rollingthepeelslightlyto
intensifythecurvealongitsfulllength.Ifyoulookcloselyandcatchtherightamountoflightonthesurfaceofthedrink,youcanseeexactlyhowmuchoilyou’reexpressingwhileyoudothis.
Iliketousetheleftoverpeeltowipetherimoftheglassforanaddeddimensionofflavorastherimtouchesthelips.Holdingthebaseoftheglasswiththenondominanthandtopreventspillage,simplyrubthecoloredsideofthepeelaroundthelipoftheglassseveraltimesuntilit’swellcoatedwithoil.
Atthispoint,you’vereachedthatage-oldbartender’sdilemmaagain:todropordiscard(thiscomesupwhengarnishingwithwedges,too;seepage266).Somedrinksbenefitfromthepeelsittinginthecocktailandcontinuingtoprovidefurtherdepthandflavorasthedrinksits.Ifindthattheold-fashioned(seepage82)isoneofthosedrinks.
Forothers,abigswathofpeelisonlygoingtogetintheway,clutteringtheotherwiseclean,neatpresentationofthecocktail.IfindthattheSazerac(page278)fallsinthatcategory,andsoforthatdrink,Ileaveitout.Whichevermethodyouchoose,bepreparedtoexplainyourreasoningtoyourguests,asthesecanbeverypolarizingchoicesinthecocktailworld.
THEFLAMEDORANGEPEEL
Onepopulartrickbehindthebartodaydatesbackto1970inLosAngeles,wasrevivedbyDaleDeGroffinNewYorkinthe1980s,andcontinuestobepopularamongbartenderseverywhere,andthat’stheflamedorangepeel.ReportedlyinventedbybartenderPepeRuizfortheflameoflovecocktailcreatedforDeanMartin,thetrickinvolvesholdinganorangepeelclosetoanopenflameandbrieflyignitingthevolatileoilsoverthesurfaceofthedrink.
Beginwithalarge,thickswathoforangepeel,about1in/2.5cmby21/2in/6cm.Holdingalitmatchorlighterbetweenthepeelandthesurfaceofthecocktail,squeezetheoilssotheypassthroughtheflameandontothedrink’ssurface.Fromthereit’sbusinessasusual,wipingtherimoftheglasswiththeorangepeelanddecidingwhethertodropordiscard.
You’lloftenseebartenders“warmingup”thepeelbyheatingitfirstwiththefiresource,butIsuspectthat’salotofshowandnotmuchscience.Thewarmingisamysterytome.Flamingtheorangepeelshouldbeabitofbarmagic—itmustcatchtheguestcompletelybysurprise.Thebartenderhastoexecuteitinonefluidmotion.Whendoneproperly,theguestjustcatchesitoutofthecorneroftheireye;thentheysmelltheorangeoil.Warmingturnsitintoascienceprojectandmakestheguestnervousanduneasyaboutwhatshouldbesleightofhand.
SPICES
Whilemanyspicesmaketheirwayintovariousingredientsofcocktails—suchasliqueurs,syrups,andtinctures—forgarnishing,thetwomostcommonspicesyou’llusearenutmegandcinnamon.
Itshouldgowithoutsayingatthispoint,butI’lljustmentionitagaintodrivehomethepoint:Anyspiceyouuseinacocktailneedstobefreshlygratedorground,inordertodeliverthefragranceandflavoryouwant.Never,everbuypregroundspicesfromthegrocerystore,andalwaysbewareofthelittlesaltshakerfullofthree-year-oldpregroundnutmegthat’skeptunderbarsallovertheworld.
Nutmegiseasy.Thehard,roundwholenutmegsstayfreshforalongtime,andgratingthemiseasyaslongasyouhaveaMicroplanegrater.
Forcinnamon,IusetheCeylonsoft-stickcinnamon,whichisverycrumblyanddelicate,unliketherock-hardrollsofcassiacinnamon,whichisfromadifferentplantaltogether.Ceylonistruecinnamon;ithasapotentfragranceandsweet-spicyflavor.Togarnishwithcinnamon,Ijustgrateitdirectlyoverthedrink.
Whenusingbothofthesespices,Iliketogratesothatthespicefallsinoneconcentratedspotonthesurfaceofthedrink,ratherthancreatingamorewidespreadlightdusting.Youcanmakeanattractivepatternifyousimplyholdthegraterclosetothesurfaceofthedrinkandgrateinshortstrokes.
Microplanemakesanactualnutmeggrater,whichhasaslimcurvedplate,againstwhichyougratethenutmeg.Ipersonallydon’tcareforthese,becauseyouenduphollowingoutalittlegroove,eventuallymakingthenutmegdifficulttouse.Anyofthefine-gaugeflatgratersworkwell;youjustgratethroughthewholenutmeg.Forcinnamon,thisbasicgraterworksbestaswell.
SPRAYS
Perhapsthemostesotericandcomplexgarnishisaspritzofsomethingsprayedoverthesurfaceofthecocktail.Absinthe,vermouth,bitters,IslayScotch,mezcal,orangeblossomwaterandrosewater,andherballiqueursareallbeautifulaccompanimentsandinterestingwaystogiveafragrantfinishtoadrink.
Forallofyoursprays,justuseagenericatomizerbottle—onethat’sneverheldanythingnonpotable,suchasperfume—andfillwiththeliquidofyourchoice.Besuretolabelthebottle.
MostatomizersareinexpensiveandreadilyavailableontheInternet.Sinceonebrandisn’tmuchbetterthananother,Irecommendsimplyfindingonethatmatchesthelookofyourbar.
SAZERAC
Sometimesit’shelpfultothinkofagarnishinanuncommonway.IliketothinkoftheabsintherinsefoundinatraditionalSazeraccocktailasanaromaticgarnishthat’splacedunderneaththedrink.Itincorporatesintothefinishedproductbutalsoretainssomearomaticsalongtheinsidecollaroftheglass.
Theclassicmethodologyistopourasmallmeasureofabsintheintotheglass,swirlit,andthendumpitout,whichcoatstheglassevenly,butisalsoawasteofabsintheandisslightlymessy.Atourbarsweliketouseanatomizerfilledwithabsinthetoneatlyandevenlycoattheinsideoftheglass.
MAKES1DRINK
2oz/60mlryewhiskey1tsp/5ml2:1simplesyrup(seepage78)
3dashesPeychaud’sbitters
1dashAngosturabitters
Icecubes
Absinthe(inanatomizerbottle)forgarnish
1lemonpeelforgarnish
FROZENROCKSGLASS
Stirthewhiskey,simplesyrup,andbitterstogetherinamixingglass.Addicecubesandstiruntilchilled.Inthefrozenrocksglass,sprayabsintheuntiltheentireinteriorsurfaceisevenlycoated.Strainthecocktailintotheglass,twistthelemonpeeloverthesurface,anddiscardthepeelbeforeserving.
BITTERSDROPLETART
Ifasprayofbittersoverthesurfaceofadrinkisabeautifularomaticpresentation,afewdropscanbebotharomaticandvisuallyappealingatthesametime.Thisisanadvanced-levelgarnishingtechnique,alongthelinesofsomethingapastrychefmightemploy.
Reservethistechniquefordrinksthatcontaineggwhites,asthefoamonthedrink’ssurfaceistheonlythingthatwillsupportafewdropsofbitterssotheydon’tquicklydissipateintothedrink.
HowtoMakeDecorativeBittersArt
Despitethefactthatbittersbottlesareoutfittedwithatinypourspout,youdon’teverwanttopourdirectlyfromthebottleunlessyou’relookingforasloppymess.It’simpossibletocontroltheexactamountofbitters,orwhereitwillland,astheforceofthetippingcontentscancausethebitterstosquirtoutinanarc.I’veseenbartenderssuccessfullyemployafree-pourbittersbottletoachieveabeautifulstraightlineacrossthetopofanegg-whitecocktail,butthefollowingistheonlywaytoconsistentlyplaceprecisedropletsinthefoam.
Transferyourbitterstoasmalleyedropper,availableatanycosmeticsorcraftsupplystore.They’recheapandreadilyavailable,andmuchlikeatomizers,I’veneverseenoneparticularbrandthat’sheadandshouldersabovetherest.
Carefullyplaceyourdropsonthedrink,andthendragatoothpickorthepointofasharpknifethroughdrop.Movingfromthecenterofadropoutwardwillmakea“tail”;draggingallthewaythroughwillmakeaheartshape;anddraggingthroughseveraldotswillconnectthemintoalittlegarland.
INDEXA
absinthe
glassesfor,238
historyof,238
Sazerac,278
serving,238
asspray,278
Vesper,195–96
Adkins,Erik,88,107
agavesyrup,76,77
aging,barrel,132
AlexanderCocktail,146
Allen,Ethan,32
Amco,19
Angosturabitters,137
Antoine’s,241
applebrandyandapplejackAutumnLeaves,135
JackRose,100
PhiladelphiaFishHousePunch,111applecider
appleseedsand,39
choosingapplesfor,38–39
equipmentfor,38
FlannelShirt,40
pasteurized,38
storing,39apricotbrandy
HotelNacionalSpecial,107
atomizers,278
AutumnLeaves,135
B
Baker,CharlesH.,107,122
baker’ssugar,75
Bamboo,118
band,creating,268,269
Barnard,W.G.“Papa,”228
barrelaging,132
barspoons,189,203–4bartending
ascraft,185
physicalityof,190
speedand,191,193
batching,196–97
BeachcomberBar,229
Bellini,49
binLaden,Osama,91bitters
commercial,136–37
definitionof,136
dropletart,281
historyof,136
HouseOrangeBitters,138
measuring,188
nonpotabilityof,136
asspray,278
blending,227–28
BlueBlazer,239–40
BohemianClub,256
Bolívar,Simón,137
Bond,James,195
Bonzerjiggers,189Bostonshaker
choosing,213–14
dryshakealignmentfor,158
opening,215,218bourbon
DanielShoemaker’sBrandiedCherries,252–53
HouseOld-Fashioned,82
MintJulep,176
Revolver,140
Bourbon&Branch,140brandy.Seealsoapplebrandyandapplejack;apricotbrandy;cognacDanielShoemaker’sBrandiedCherries,252–53
BrevilleJuiceFountainElite,33
Brooke,Joseph,241
brownsugar,75,77
Buck’sClub,71
Buddha’shand,27
BuenaVistaCafe,150
buildingintheglass,225
C
cachaça
about,237
Caipirinha,237
CaféBrûlot,241–42
Caipirinha,237Canadianwhisky
MapleOld-Fashioned,83
carbonation,53–55,57
CaribeHilton,229
castersugar,75
Cavendish,Henry,53
channelknives,260,262
Chapman,John,32cherries
DanielShoemaker’sBrandiedCherries,252–53
asgarnishes,250
improvingonjarred,250–51
pitting,253
chiles,infusingwith,124
ChineseFive-SpicedDarkRum,128cinnamon
CinnamonTincture,134
asgarnish,277
Cipriani,Giuseppe,49citrus.Seealsoindividualfruits
bulk-buying,16–17
choosing,16–17
historyof,14–15
horse’sneck,262
juice,17,22–25
muddling,235
peels,274–75,277
twists,260,262
varietiesof,27–28
wedges,266–67
wheels,262,264
ClinebellEquipmentCompany,170
ClydeCommon,154,193
ClydeCommonEggnog,154
cobblershaker,213
CocktailKingdom,172,204,206,208,213,235,240cocktails
historyof,81
sugarsyrupsin,81
threeelementsofgood,10
CocoLópez,229coconutcream
PiñaColada,229coffee
CaféBrûlot,241–42
IrishCoffee,150
SpanishCoffee,243,245coffeeliqueur
Revolver,140
SpanishCoffee,243,245cognac
CaféBrûlot,241–42
JapaneseCocktail,113
PhiladelphiaFishHousePunch,111
Sidecar,220Cointreau
Margarita,272
Sidecar,220
Thyme-InfusedCointreau,127
WhiteLady,161
Colliau,Jennifer,88–89,112
Collins,John,54compoundsyrups
advantagesof,89
fruitin,97
GingerSyrup,103
Grenadine,98,100
GumSyrup,90–91,93
herbsin,94
MintSyrup,96
OleoSaccharum,108
orgeat,112
PineappleSyrup,103
QuinineSyrup,59
RaspberrySyrup,102
confectioners’sugar,75
Conigliaro,Tony,132
Cook,James,54
CountryCleanPaperSupplies,255
Craddock,Harry,161,185cream
choosing,145
sell-bydatefor,147
storing,147
typesof,146
whipped,147–48,267
creamwhipper,infusingwith,127crèmedecacao
AlexanderCocktail,146crèmedepêche
PhiladelphiaFishHousePunch,111
Cuffs&Buttons,157
CynarFlip,153
D
DaiquiriNo.3,28
dairyproducts.Seealsocreamchoosing,145
roleof,incocktails,144
sell-bydatefor,147
storing,147
typesof,146
DanielShoemaker’sBrandiedCherries,252–53
DarkandStormy,68
dashes,186,188
Death+Company,83
DeGroff,Dale,277
Demerarasugar,75–76,77
dilution,201–2
dissolution,119
dram,186Drambuie
KingstonClub,42
drops,186
dryice,168
dryshake,157,158
E
eggs
choosing,145
ClydeCommonEggnog,154
cracking,152–53
CynarFlip,153
freshnessof,152
measuring,152
raw,152
separating,154,156
WhiteLady,161
whites,preparingandstoring,156–57
Estopinal,Kirk,136
Exacto-Pourtestingset,193
F
fatwashing,120
FizzGiz,57flamingdrinks
BlueBlazer,239–40
CaféBrûlot,241–42
withorangepeel,277
SpanishCoffee,243,245
FlannelShirt,40
flavor,complexitiesof,119–20
Fleming,Ian,195flips
CynarFlip,153
historyof,153flowers
asgarnishes,259–60
storing,260
foodmills,33
foodprocessors,33
Franklin,Benjamin,53
freepouring,191,193–94
French75,71fruit.Seealsojuices;individualfruits
incompoundsyrups,97
muddling,235
purees,46
G
Galatoire’s,241
garnishes.Seealsoindividualgarnishes
aromatic,274–75,277–78,281
dropped,250–56
rimmed,268–69
roleof,248
utilitarian,266–67
visual,259–60,262,264–65
Gibson,256
Gibson,WalterD.K.,256
gill,186gin
AlexanderCocktail,146
CloverClub,102
French75,71
GinandTonic,58,62
ImprovedHollandCocktail,196–97
Martini,210
TomCollins,54,56
Vesper,195–96
WhiteLady,161ginger
DarkandStormy,68
GingerBeer,65–66
GingerSyrup,103
juice,45
storing,45
glass,asunitofmeasure,185glasses
forabsinthe,238
forIrishCoffee,150
formartinis,195
mixing,204,206
oversized,195
rimmed,268–69
Gonzalez,Giuseppe,136
Gracia,Ricardo,229GrandMarnier
CaféBrûlot,241–42
granulatedsugar,75grapefruits
choosing,16–17
DaiquiriNo.3,28
juice,17,24
varietiesof,27–28
Grenadine,98,100
JackRose,100
GumSyrup,90–91,93
H
HamiltonBeach,20
Harry’sBar,49
Hawthornestrainer,208,219
hemicellulose,132
Hemingway,Ernest,28herbs
incompoundsyrups,94
asgarnishes,259–60
infusionswith,126–27
muddling,230
storing,260
tinctureswith,133,134
honey,76,77
horse’sneck,262
Hoshizakiicemachines,172
HotelNacionalSpecial,107
HouseOld-Fashioned,82
HouseOrangeBitters,138
Huber’sCafe,243
I
ice
behaviorof,165
forblendeddrinks,227–28
block,170
carbonationand,55
clarityof,165–66
cracked,172,174
crushed,174
cubes,170,172
dilutionand,201–2
dry,168
handling,168,170
historyof,164
importanceof,164
large-format,170,172
making,166,168
obtaining,166,168
forpunch,178
roleof,165
spears,172
spherical,181
storing,168
transporting,168
typesof,170,172,174
ImprovedHollandCocktail,196–97infusions
withchiles,124
ChineseFive-SpicedDarkRum,128
choosingingredientsfor,120–21
fatwashingand,120
flavorand,120
goalof,120
withherbsandspices,126–28
Limoncello,130
making,121
Nocino,129
processesinvolvedin,119
storing,122
straining,122
TequilaporMiAmante,122
Thyme-InfusedCointreau,127
tincturesvs.,133
wood,132
ingredients,importanceof,10Irishwhiskey
IrishCoffee,150
J
JackRose,100
JapaneseCocktail,113
jiggers,185,188–89
juicers,19–20,33juices
apple,38–39
citrus,17,22–25
ginger,45
pineapple,42
pomegranate,44
techniquesfor,22–23,34,36
tomato,43
Julep,Mint,176
julepstrainer,208
K
Kahlúa
SpanishCoffee,243,245
KingstonClub,42knives
channel,260,262
paring,264
serrated,264
Kold-Drafticemachines,172
KuhnRikon,264
kumquats,27
L
lemons.Seealsocitruschoosing,16–17
CloverClub,102
FlannelShirt,40
French75,71
GingerBeer,65–66
JackRose,100
juice,17,24–25
Limoncello,130
OleoSaccharum,108
PhiladelphiaFishHousePunch,111
Sidecar,220
TomCollins,54,56
varietiesof,27
WhiteLady,161
Lewisbags,174Lilletblanc
Vesper,195–96
limes.SeealsocitrusCaipirinha,237
choosing,16–17
DaiquiriNo.3,28
HotelNacionalSpecial,107
juice,17,24
KingstonClub,42
Margarita,272
Mojito,233
Queen’sParkSwizzle,226
varietiesof,27
Limoncello,130
lip,rimming,268,269
Luxardo,250
M
MacElhone,Harry,71
mandarins,28maplesyrup
caloriesin,77
gradesof,77
MapleOld-Fashioned,83
insimplesyrup,77
maraschinoliqueurDaiquiriNo.3,28
ImprovedHollandCocktail,196–97
Margarita,272
MarreroPérez,Ramón“Monchito,”229
Martin,Dean,277
Martini,210
Mayahuel,83
McGarry,Malachy,71
measuringAmericansystemfor,186–87
eggs,152
historyof,185–86
importanceof,185
metricsystemfor,187,195–96
speedand,191,193
toolsfor,188–91
Messermeister,262
metricsystem,187,195–96mezcal
OaxacaOld-Fashioned,83
Microplane,277mint
MintJulep,176
MintSyrup,96
Mojito,233
Strawberry-MintShrub,114
MisterMojito,235
mixers,52
mixingglasses,204,206
Mojito,233
muddling,230,235
muscovadosugar,76,77
N
Nepove,David,235
Nocino,129
Norpro,19,219
nutmeg,277
O
OaxacaOld-Fashioned,83old-fashioned
historyof,81
HouseOld-Fashioned,82
MapleOld-Fashioned,83
OaxacaOld-Fashioned,83
RumOld-Fashioned,82
OleoSaccharum,108
PhiladelphiaFishHousePunch,111
olives,254–55onions
asgarnishes,256
ToddThrasher’sPickledOnions,256
oranges.Seealsocitrusbitters,commercial,137
choosing,16–17
HouseOrangeBitters,138
juice,17,24
peel,flamed,277
varietiesof,27–28orgeat
about,112
JapaneseCocktail,113
osmosis,119
OXO,189,213,219,253,274
P
Parisianshaker,214
Pazuniak,Maks,136
peaches
Bellini,49
puree,46
Pearl-Kimmel,Stephanie,118
peelers,274
peels,citrus,274–75,277
PeguClub,157
Pépin,Jacques,152
PerlageSystem,70
Peychaud,AntoineAmédée,137
Peychaud’sbitters,137
Pike,Justin,193–94
PiñaColada,229pineapple
choosing,42
garnishes,265
HotelNacionalSpecial,107
juice,42
KingstonClub,42
PiñaColada,229
PineappleSyrup,103
Plinth,Charles,54pomegranates
choosing,44
Grenadine,98,100
juice,44
storing,44
pony,185
pouring
free,191,193–94
overhandedvs.underhanded,189–91
powderedsugar,75
Priestley,Joseph,53–54
ThePrizefighter,140punches
historyof,14–15
icefor,178
PhiladelphiaFishHousePunch,111
PX,256
Q
Queen’sParkHotel,226
Queen’sParkSwizzle,226quinine
historyof,58
QuinineSyrup,59
QuinineTincture,59
R
RaChand,20
RaspberrySyrup,102
CloverClub,102
rawsugar,75–76recipes
choosing,10
scalingup,196–97
Regan,Gary,136,224
Revolver,140
Reynolds,Blair,112
Reynoso,Henry,146
Ricket,E.,90
rimmedgarnishes,268–69
rolling,225
Rösle,213
Ruiz,Pepe,277rum
ChineseFive-SpicedDarkRum,128
DaiquiriNo.3,28
DanielShoemaker’sBrandiedCherries,252–53
DarkandStormy,68
HotelNacionalSpecial,107
HouseOrangeBitters,138
Mojito,233
PhiladelphiaFishHousePunch,111
PiñaColada,229
Queen’sParkSwizzle,226
RumOld-Fashioned,82
SpanishCoffee,243,245ryewhiskey
AutumnLeaves,135
Sazerac,278
S
saltrim,268–69
Sandrof,Ben,153
Santer,Jon,140
Savoy,185
Sazerac,278
Schweppe,JohannJacob,54Scotch
BlueBlazer,239–40
FlannelShirt,40
Scovillescale,124
Seattlemuddle,224
seltzerwater,54shaking
dilutionand,201–2
foregg-whitecocktails,157–58
equipmentfor,213–14
goalsfor,213
stirringvs.,200
strainingand,219
techniquefor,214–15,218sherry
ClydeCommonEggnog,154
Shoemaker,Daniel,252shrubs
historyof,114
making,114
Strawberry-MintShrub,114
Sidecar,220
Siegert,JohannGottliebBenjamin,137
simplesyrups
choosingsugarfor,75–77
incocktails,81
goalof,74
making,78,80
measuringingredientsfor,78
storing,80
strengthof,78
SlantedDoor,88,107
SmallHandFoods,89,112
Sodastream,57
sodawater,54,57
Solomon,Chad,157
SpanishCoffee,243,245spears
ice,172
pineapple,265
speedpourers,191spices
asgarnishes,277
infusionswith,126,127–28
tinctureswith,133,134
Spill-Stoppourspouts,191
sprays,278
Stenson,Murray,193–94stirring
barspoonsfor,203–4
dilutionand,201–2
goalsof,203
mixingglassesfor,204,206
shakingvs.,200
strainingand,208
techniquefor,206,208
straining,122,208,219strawberries
Strawberry-MintShrub,114
TequilaporMiAmante,122Stregaliqueur
AutumnLeaves,135
subsidence,121
sugar.Seealsosimplesyrupsrim,268–69
typesof,75–77
Sunkist,20
superfinesugar,75
Swissmarbarspoon,204
swizzlesticks,226
swizzling,226
T
tangerines,28
TeardropLounge,252
technique,importanceof,10tequila
ClydeCommonEggnog,154
infusing,withchiles,124
Margarita,272
OaxacaOld-Fashioned,83
TequilaporMiAmante,122
Thomas,C.,90
Thomas,Jerry,56,81,82,112,153,185,239,240
Thoreau,HenryDavid,164
Thrasher,Todd,256
Thyme-InfusedCointreau,127tinctures
choosingalcoholsfor,133
CinnamonTincture,134
infusionsvs.,133
intensityof,133
making,134
QuinineTincture,59
TinyTavern,8
ToddThrasher’sPickledOnions,256
tomatojuice,43
TomCollins,54,56tonicwater
GinandTonic,58,62
historyof,58
making,58
toothpicks,255
Tovoloicetrays,170,172
triangles,pineapple,265TripleSec
SpanishCoffee,243,245
Tudor,Frederic,164
turbinadosugar,75–76,77
twists,citrus,260,262
U
ultrapasteurization,145
V
vermouth
AutumnLeaves,135
Martini,210
asspray,278
Vert,ConstantinoRibalaigua,28
Vesper,195–96
Victorinox,262
Vitamix,228vodka
CinnamonTincture,134
infusing,withchiles,124
infusing,withherbs,126
Limoncello,130
Nocino,129
Vesper,195–96
W
walnuts
Nocino,129
Ward,Phil,83
Waring,Fred,229
Waringice-crushingmachine,174
wedges,citrus,266–67
wheels,citrus,262,264
whippedcreamasgarnish,267
making,147–48whiskey.Seebourbon;Canadianwhisky;Irishwhiskey;ryewhiskey;ScotchWhite,Neyah,114
WhiteLady,161
whitesugar,75,77wine
Bellini,49
French75,71
Nocino,129
sparkling,70
wineglass,asunitofmeasure,185
WMF,213,214
Wondrich,David,111
Y
Yaraimixingglass,206
Ypeelers,274
yuzu,28
Z
zesters,260
ZigZagCafé,194
JEFFREYMORGENTHALERisanaward-winningbartender,workingsince1996ineverythingfromneighborhoodtavernsandcollegenightclubstofinerestaurantsandtrendylounges.HeiscurrentlybarmanageratPortland’sbelovedClydeCommon.HiswritingandrecipeshaveappearedintheNewYorkTimesandtheWallStreetJournal,aswellasWineEnthusiast,Playboy,Wired,andImbibemagazines.Hisblog,www.jeffreymorgenthaler.com,iswherehewaxeseloquentonbartendingandmixology.
MARTHAHOLMBERGisanaward-winningfoodwriterandeditor,formerpublisherandeditorofFineCookingmagazine,and,mostrecently,foodeditoroftheOregoniannewspaper.SheisalsotheauthorofModernSauces,Crêpes,andPuff,allpublishedbyChronicleBooks.ShelivesinPortland,OregonALANNAHALEisaSanFrancisco–basedfoodandlifestylephotographerwhoseworkhasappearedintheNewYorkTimes,BonAppétit,GQ,andFood&Winemagazines.Sheis,byherownadmission,obsessedwithallthingsfood-anddrink-related.
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