the best of peru - john wiley &...
TRANSCRIPT
The Best of Peru
Peru is legendary among world travelers looking for exciting new experiences. Stun-ningly endowed in both natural and man-made attractions, Peru offers much morethan most trips can even hope to take in: charming Andean highland towns with colo-nial architecture, remote jungle lodges in the Amazon basin, soaring snowcappedmountains and volcanoes, a 3,220km (2,000-mile) Pacific coastline, and, of course,Machu Picchu and the stunning legacies of the Incas and other sophisticated pre-Columbian civilizations. Peru is a place of brilliant hand-woven textiles and exuber-ant celebrations, exotic animals, and fascinating peoples. It is a country bursting withopportunities for memorable travel experiences and outdoor adventure. The followinglists describe some of my favorite places and activities, from hotels and restaurants tooutdoor experiences and festivals. But the fun of traveling to a fascinatingly diversecountry like Peru is compiling your own unforgettable list.
1 The Most Unforgettable Travel Experiences• Soaring over the Nasca Lines: One
of South America’s great enigmas,these ancient, baffling lines areetched into the desert sands alongPeru’s southern coast. There are gianttrapezoids and triangles, the identifi-able shapes of animal and plant fig-ures, and more than 10,000 lines thatcan only really be seen from the air.Variously thought to be signs fromthe gods, agricultural and astronomi-cal calendars, or even extraterrestrialairports, the Nasca Lines were con-structed between 300 B.C. and A.D.700. Small-craft overflights dip andglide, and passengers strain theirnecks against the window to see mys-terious figures such as “the Astro-naut.” See “Nasca” in chapter 6.
• Gazing at Machu Picchu: Howeveryou get to it—whether you hike thefabled Inca Trail or hop aboard one ofthe prettiest train rides in SouthAmerica—Machu Picchu more than
lives up to its reputation as one of themost spectacular sites on Earth. Theruins of the legendary “lost city of theIncas” sit majestically among themassive Andes, swathed in clouds.The ceremonial and agricultural cen-ter, never discovered or looted by theSpaniards, dates to the mid-1400sbut seems even more ancient. Explor-ing the site is a thrilling experience,especially at sunrise, when dramaticrays of light creep over the mountain-tops. See “Machu Picchu & the IncaTrail” in chapter 8.
• Hiking the Inca Trail: The leg-endary trail to Machu Picchu, theCamino del Inca, is one of the world’smost rewarding ecoadventures. Thearduous 4-day trek leads across aston-ishing Andean mountain passes andthrough some of the greatest attrac-tions in Peru, including dozens ofIncan ruins, dense cloud forest, andbreathtaking mountain scenery. The
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C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F P E R U6
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trek has a superlative payoff: a sunsetarrival at the glorious ruins of MachuPicchu, shrouded in mist at your feet.For those looking for less popularruins treks, Choquequirao and otheralternatives to the Inca Trail await.See “Machu Picchu & the Inca Trail”in chapter 8.
• Floating on Lake Titicaca: Lake Titi-caca, the world’s highest navigablebody of water, straddles the borderbetween Peru and Bolivia. To locals, itis a mysterious and sacred place. Anhour’s boat ride from Puno takes youto the Uros floating islands, wherecommunities dwell upon soft patchesof reeds. Visitors have a rare opportu-nity to experience the ancient culturesof two inhabited natural islands,Amantaní and Taquile, by stayingwith a local family. The views of theoceanlike lake, at more than 3,600m(12,000 ft.) above sea level, and thestar-littered night sky are worth thetrip. Even better, for those with anadventuresome spirit and extra time,are kayaking on Titicaca and spendingthe night on private Suasi Island. See“Puno & Lake Titicaca” in chapter 9.
• Marveling as Condors Soar overColca Canyon: The world’s second-deepest canyon (twice as deep as the
Grand Canyon), Colca is the bestplace in South America to see giantAndean condors, majestic birds withwingspans of up to 3.5m (11 ft.).From a stunning lookout pointnearly 1,200m (4,000 ft.) above thecanyon river, you can watch as thecondors appear, slowly circle, andgradually gain altitude with each passuntil they soar silently above yourhead and head off down the river. Atruly spine-tingling spectacle, theflight of the big birds might makeyou feel quite small and insignifi-cant—and certainly less graceful. See“Colca Valley” in chapter 9.
• Plunging Deep into the Jungle:However you do it, and inwhichever part of the Amazon-basinrainforest you do it, Peru’s massivetracts of jungle are not to be missed.The northern jungle is most accessi-ble from Iquitos, and the southernAmazon, which features two phe-nomenal national reserves, Manuand Tambopata, is approachablefrom Cusco and Puerto Maldonado.You can take a river cruise, stay at arustic jungle lodge, or lose yourselfwith a private guide, making campand catching dinner along the way.See chapter 10.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F P E R U8
2 The Most Intriguing Ruins & Other Historical Sights• Cantalloc Aqueduct & Chauchilla
Cemetery: An incredible necropolisdating to around A.D. 1000 and asophisticated irrigation system in thearea around Nasca are two of thesouth’s most interesting archaeologi-cal sites. Of the thousands of gravesat Chauchilla, 12 undergroundtombs have been exposed. What theyhold is fascinating: the bleachedbones of children and adults withdreadlocks, and some of the garmentsand goodies they were buried with.Close to town, nearly three dozen
aqueducts represent a spectacularengineering feat of the Incas and theirpredecessors. The canals have airvents forming spirals descending tothe water current and are still in usetoday by local farmers. See “Nasca” inchapter 6.
• Colonial and Inca Cusco: VibrantCusco, the ancient Incan capital, is aliving museum of Peruvian history,with Spanish colonial churches andmansions sitting atop perfectly con-structed Incan walls of exquisitelycarved granite blocks that fit together
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without mortar. Streets still haveevocative Quechua-language namesthat date back to Incan times, suchas Saqracalle (“Where the demonsdwell”) and Pumaphaqcha (“Puma’stail”). See “What to See & Do” inchapter 7.
• Qoricancha–Templo del Sol: TheIncan Temple of the Sun is an excep-tional example of the Incas’ masterfulmasonry. Dedicated to sun worship,the greatest temple in the IncanEmpire was a gleaming palace of goldbefore the Spaniards raided it. Dur-ing the summer solstice, the sun stillmagically illuminates a niche wherethe Incan chieftain held court. A sen-suously curved wall of stone is one ofthe greatest remaining examples ofIncan stonework. See p. 216.
• Sacsayhuamán: On a hill overlookingCusco, the monumental stoneworkat Sacsayhuamán forms massive zig-zagged defensive walls of threetiers. Built by the Incan emperorPachacútec in the mid–15th century,some blocks weigh as much as 300tons, and they fit together seamlesslywithout mortar. The main pageant ofthe splendid Inti Raymi festival, oneof the greatest expressions of Incanand Quechua culture, is celebratedevery June 24 at Sacsayhuamán. See“What to See & Do” in chapter 7.
• Pisac Ruins: At the beginning of theSacred Valley, just 45 minutes fromCusco, are some of the most spectac-ular Incan ruins in Peru. Equal partscity, religious temple, and militarycomplex—and perhaps a royal estateof the Incan emperor—the ruins enjoystunning views of the valley. A hikeup the hillside to the ruins, beginningat Pisac’s main square, is one of themost rewarding climbs you’re likelyto take. See “Pisac” in chapter 8.
• Ollantaytambo’s Fortress Ruins:Even though the Incas never finished
this temple for worship and astro-nomical observation, it is stillextraordinary, perhaps the greatestevidence to be found of their unpar-alleled engineering and craftsman-ship. On a rocky outcrop perchedabove the valley, dozens of rows ofincredibly steep stone terraces arecarved into the hillside; high aboveare elegant examples of classic Incanmasonry in pink granite. See “Ollan-taytambo” in chapter 8.
• New “Lost” Incan Cities: Archaeol-ogists keep unearthing fantastic Incanruins in and around Machu Picchu(which obviously qualifies as themost fascinating ruins of all). Mostare still being excavated and docu-mented, but Choquequirao, to whichhard-core trekkers put off by thecrowds and regulations of the IncaTrail are now hiking, and the recentdiscoveries Qorihuayrachina, CotaCoca, and Llactapata are all envi-sioned as new Machu Picchus. See“On the Trail of ‘New’ Incan Cities:The Discovery Continues” on p. 269.
• Huacas de Moche: On the outskirtsof Trujillo, this complex of mysteri-ous Moche adobe pyramids, the Tem-ple of the Sun and Temple of theMoon, dates to A.D. 500. The Templeof the Sun (Huaca del Sol), todaysadly eroded, is still mammoth—itwas once probably the largest man-made structure in the Americas. Thesmaller Temple of the Moon (Huacade la Luna) has been excavated;revealed inside are cool polychro-matic friezes of a scary figure, thedecapitator god. See “Trujillo” inchapter 11.
• Chan Chan: A sprawling city ofadobe in the Moche Valley, justbeyond Trujillo, Chan Chan was thecapital of the formidable Chimúempire. Begun around A.D. 1300,it is the largest adobe complex of
T H E M O S T I N T R I G U I N G R U I N S & O T H E R H I S TO R I C A L S I G H T S 9
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pre-Columbian America. Among thenine royal palaces, the partiallyrestored Tschudi Palace has unusualfriezes and is evocative enough tospur thoughts of the unequalled sizeand sophistication of this compoundof the Chimú kingdom, whichreached its apogee in the 15th cen-tury before succumbing to the Incas.Chan Chan includes three othersites, all quite spread out, including amodern museum. See “Trujillo” inchapter 11.
• The Ruins of Kuélap: The remotesite of Kuélap, hidden by thick cloudforest and more than 800 years old, isone of the man-made wonders ofPeru waiting to be discovered by visi-tors. The ruins are still tough andtime-consuming to get to, but the
fortress complex of 400 round build-ings, surrounded by a massive defen-sive wall, rewards the efforts ofadventurous amateur archaeologists.See “The Ruins of Kuélap” on p. 394.
• Chavín de Huántar: About 110km(68 miles) from Huaraz and theCordillera Blanca are the 3,000-year-old ruins of Chavín de Huántar, afortress-temple with excellent stone-work constructed by the Chavín cul-ture from about 1200 to 300 B.C.These are the best-preserved ruins ofone of Peru’s most sophisticated andinfluential ancient civilizations. In asubterranean tunnel is the Lanzón, ahuge and handsome stone carvingand cult object shaped like a dagger.See “Huaraz & the Cordillera Blanca”in chapter 11.
C H A P T E R 1 . T H E B E S T O F P E R U10
3 The Best Museums• Museo Arqueológico Rafael Larco
Herrera, Lima: The world’s largestprivate collection of pre-Columbianart focuses on the Moche dynasty(A.D. 200–700) and its extraordinaryceramics. Packed shelves in this 18th-century colonial building hold anincredible 45,000 pieces. And itwouldn’t be a proper presentation ofthe Moche culture without a SalaErótica, dedicated to the culture’sshockingly explicit ceramic sexualdepictions. See p. 138.
• Museo de la Nación, Lima: TheNational Museum traces the art andhistory of the earliest inhabitants tothe Incan Empire. It’s sprawling butvery well designed, with scale modelsof major archaeological sites and greatcarved totems and textiles. See p. 138.
• Convento y Museo de San Francisco,Lima: The capital’s best colonial-erachurch, the Convent of St. Francis is astriking 17th-century baroque com-plex with gorgeous glazed ceramic tilesand carved ceilings. The museum
holds excellent examples of religiousart and a splendid library, but deepbeneath the church are some creepycatacombs, dug in the 16th century tohouse the remains of tens of thousandsof priests and parishioners. See p. 134.
• Museo Antonini, Nasca: A privatearchaeology museum with a mission,this Italian initiative presents artifactsfrom the sophisticated Nasca cultureand details the process of the excava-tions. In the museum’s backyard isthe Bisambra aqueduct, an ancientNasca stone irrigation canal. Themuseum is in possession of theworld’s greatest collection of paintedtextiles, from the huge adobe city ofCahuachi nearby, but as of yet has noplace to display them. See p. 172.
• Convento y Museo de SantaCatalina, Cusco: This handsome,early-17th-century convent was con-structed on top of the Acllawasi,where the Incan emperor sequesteredhis chosen Virgins of the Sun. Themuseum’s collection of colonial and
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religious art is terrific, the best placein Peru to study the painters of thefamed Escuela Cusqueña, whichforged a unique style of Amerindianart by combining indigenous andSpanish styles. See p. 210.
• Museo de Arte Precolombino,Cusco: This handsomely designedmuseum of pre-Columbian art pos-sesses some pristine pieces represent-ing the whole of Peru’s history, alltaken from Lima’s overwhelmingLarco Herrera museum. Housed in acolonial mansion on one of Cusco’sprettiest squares, the museum is smallenough to be engaging rather thanexhausting. See p. 215.
• Monasterio de Santa Catalina, Are-quipa: The Convent of SantaCatalina, founded in 1579, is hands-down the greatest religious monu-ment in Peru. More than a convent,it’s an extraordinary architecturalcomplex, with Spanish-style cobble-stone streets, passageways, plazas, andcloisters, where more than 200sequestered nuns once lived (only ahandful remain). Spending a sunnyafternoon here is like being trans-ported to another world: a small vil-lage in Andalucía, Spain. See p. 303.
• Museo Santuarios Andinos, Are-quipa: The Museum of Andean Sanc-tuaries focuses on a singular exhibit,
one of the most important recentarchaeological finds in Peru: Juanita,the Ice Maiden of Ampato. A 13- or14-year-old girl sacrificed in the1500s by Incan priests on a volcanoat more than 6,000m (20,000 ft.),“Juanita” was discovered in almostperfect condition in 1995. Her frozenremains, kept inside a high-techchamber, have been studied by scien-tific teams from the U.S. and Peru toelicit clues from her DNA. See p. 304.
• Museo Tumbas Reales Sipán, Lam-bayeque: Peru’s newest major museumis stunningly modern on the outside,echoing the north’s ancient Mochepyramids, and it holds the spectaculartomb of the Lord of Sipán within.One of Peru’s most important archae-ological discoveries, el Señor de Sipánis a Moche royal figure buried 1,700years ago with a wealth of ceremo-nial ornaments and treasures. Thismuseum is perhaps the best expressionof Peru’s ancient grandeur. See p. 389.
• Conjunto Monumental de Belén,Cajamarca: A historic architecturalcomplex of carved volcanic stone,Belén comprises an extraordinary colo-nial church and two former hospitalshousing medical and archaeologicalexhibits, including textiles and ceramicsdating back to 1500 B.C. and interest-ing ethnographic displays. See p. 399.
T H E B E S T O F N AT U R A L P E R U 11
4 The Best of Natural Peru• Islas Ballestas: The Ballestas Islands,
considered the “Peruvian Galápagos,”are home to an amazing roster of pro-tected species, including hugecolonies of sea lions, endangered tur-tles, Humboldt penguins, red boo-bies, pelicans, turkey vultures, andred-footed cormorants. The islandsare so covered with migratory andresident sea birds that they are knownfor their production of guano, or birddroppings. The Ballestas are part of
the Paracas National Reserve, two-thirds of which is ocean. See “Pisco &the Reserva Nacional de Paracas” inchapter 6.
• Colca Valley: The Colca Canyon isan awe-inspiring site and the bestplace in South America to witnessgiant condors, but the entire area,which Mario Vargas Llosa called the“Valley of Wonders,” is extraordinar-ily scenic. From snowcapped volca-noes to patchwork valleys of green,
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narrow gorges, and beautiful desertlandscapes, Colca has it all. On theway to Colca Canyon, you pass theSalinas and Aguada Blanca NatureReserve, where you can glimpsevicuñas, llamas, and alpacas from theroad. See “Colca Valley” in chapter 9.
• Tambopata National Reserve: Ahuge reserve of rainforest in thedepartamento (province) of Madre deDios, Tambopata has outstandingbiodiversity: more species of birds(nearly 600) and butterflies (1,200)than any place of similar size onEarth, as well as a dozen differenttypes of forest and gorgeous oxbowlakes, and at least 13 endangered ani-mal species. The famous Tambopatamacaw clay lick, where thousands ofbrilliantly colored macaws and par-rots gather daily for feedings, ranks asone of the wildlife highlights of Peru.See “The Southern Amazon Jungle”in chapter 10.
• Manu Biosphere Reserve: RemoteManu—about as close as you’re likelyto come to virgin rainforest any-where—is the second-largest pro-tected area in Peru. Its incrediblyvaried habitats include Andes high-lands, cloud forests, and lowlandtropical rainforests. One hectare (21⁄2acres) of forest in Manu could have10 times the number of species oftrees found in a hectare of temperateforest in Europe or North America,and Manu has the highest bird, mam-mal, and plant diversity of any parkon the planet. The reserve is one ofthe world’s finest for birding (greatereven than all of Costa Rica); otherwildlife includes giant river otters,cocks-of-the-rock, and perhaps15,000 animal species, as well asnative Amerindian tribes that remainuntouched by the modern world. See“The Southern Amazon Jungle” inchapter 10.
• Pacaya-Samiria National Reserve:The reserve, nearly 322km (200 miles)south of Iquitos, is the largest pro-tected area in Peru and one of the bestconserved in the world. Its dense, pris-tine rainforest and wetlands comprise1.5% of Peru’s total surface area andcontain some of the Amazon’s greatestwildlife, including pink dolphins,macaws, black caimans, spider mon-keys, and giant river turtles. Found inthe reserve (at last count) are 539species of birds, 101 species of mam-mals, 256 kinds of fish, and 22 speciesof orchids. See “Into the Wild: FartherAfield from Iquitos” on p. 362.
• Huascarán National Park: Fortrekkers and climbers, the soaring peaksof the longest tropical mountain rangein the world are a South Americanmecca. It’s a visual feast, with 200alpine lakes, 600 glaciers, and incompa-rable mountain vistas. The park, aUNESCO Biosphere Reserve andWorld Heritage Trust site, containsnearly the whole of the 161km (100-mile) Cordillera Blanca. See “Huaraz &the Cordillera Blanca” in chapter 11.
• Lagunas Llanganuco & Puya Rai-mondi: Near Huaraz, the snow-capped peaks of the Cordillera Blancaare the biggest natural draw fortrekkers, but the area is replete withall kinds of natural wonders. TheLlanganuco lakes are two turquoise,glacier-fed alpine lakes that reflect thesnowy summits of several 6,000m(20,000-ft.) mountains. In the valleyof Pachacoto, 56km (35 miles) fromHuaraz, are the famous Puya Rai-mondi plants: trippy bromeliadplants that soar up to 12m (39 ft.),flower just once in 100 years, andimmediately die. The colorful flow-ers, against the backdrop of theCordillera Blanca mountains, makefor one of the prettiest pictures inPeru. See “Huaraz & the CordilleraBlanca” in chapter 11.
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• Ayacucho: A pristine colonial gem ofa small city nestled in the CentralHighlands, Ayacucho was until themid-1990s prisoner to a homegrownguerrilla movement that precludedalmost all visitors from being able to relish its collection of stunningcolonial-era churches. Ayacucho isalso ground zero for Peru’s besthandicrafts, and the best place to pickup treasures direct from artisans. See“A Gem in the Central Highlands:Ayacucho” in chapter 6.
• Pisac: The first of the Sacred Valleysettlements outside Cusco, Pisac has agreatly colorful and lively artisans’market and some of the most splen-did Incan ruins this side of MachuPicchu. A massive fortress complexclings to a cliff high above town,affording sensational views of the val-ley. See “Pisac” in chapter 8.
• Chinchero: Just beyond Cusco, butnot technically part of the SacredValley, Chinchero is best known forits bustling Sunday artisans’ market,one of the best in Peru. But the grace-ful, traditional Andean town, highereven than Cusco, has mesmerizingviews of snowy mountain ranges, alovely colonial church, and its ownIncan ruins. In the pretty mainsquare, you can still see the hugestones and 10 trapezoidal niches ofan Incan wall, originally part of aroyal palace. See “Urubamba &Environs” in chapter 8.
• Ollantaytambo: One of the princi-pal villages of the Sacred Valley of theIncas, “Ollanta” (as the locals call it)is a spectacularly beautiful placealong the Urubamba River; the gorgeis lined by agricultural terraces, and snowcapped peaks rise in the
distance. The ruins of a formidabletemple-fortress overlook the oldtown, a perfect grid of streets built bythe Incas, the only such layoutremaining in Peru. See “Ollantay-tambo” in chapter 8.
• Colca Valley Villages: Chivay, on theedge of Colca Canyon, is the valley’smain town, but it isn’t much morethan a laid-back market town withfantastic hot springs on its outskirts.Dotting the Colca Valley and itsextraordinary agricultural terracingare 14 charming colonial villages dat-ing to the 16th century, each markedby a centerpiece church. Yanque,Coporaque, Maca, and Lari areamong the most attractive towns, butthese villages are best appreciated fortheir adherence to tradition. Nativesin the valley are descendants of thepre-Incan ethnic communities Col-laguas and Cabanas, and they main-tain the vibrant style of traditionaldress, highlighted by fantasticallyembroidered and sequined hats. See“A Typical Guided Tour of Colca Val-ley” on p. 325.
• Cajamarca: A mini-Cusco in thenorthern highlands, delightful Caja-marca surprisingly doesn’t get muchtourist traffic—yet. Beautifullyframed by the Andes and sumptu-ous green countryside, with a his-toric core of colonial buildingswhere an important Incan city oncestood, Cajamarca is elegant andeasygoing. It’s also very well posi-tioned for day trips into the countryand to fascinating archaeologicalsites; indeed, several of Peru’s nicestand most relaxing country hotels arelocated here. See “Cajamarca” inchapter 11.
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5 The Best Small Towns & Villages
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• Trekking in the Sacred Valley: Themost famous trek outside Cusco is, ofcourse, the Inca Trail to Machu Pic-chu. But if you’re not up to 4 strenu-ous days with a group along a highlystructured trail, there are plenty ofadditional hiking options in theSacred Valley. Other trails are muchless crowded and share some of thesame extraordinary scenery. Ollantay-tambo and Yucay are the best basesfor walks in the pretty countryside ofthe Urubamba Valley. See chapter 8.
• Running Big-Time White Water:Just beyond Cusco in the UrubambaValley are some excellent river runs,ranging from mild to world-class.Novices can do 1-day trips to get ataste of this thrilling sport, whilemore experienced rafters can takemultiday trips and even hard-corerafting journeys along the TambopataRiver in the Amazon jungle. The areaaround Arequipa and the ColcaCanyon in southern Peru is even bet-ter for rafting. The easiest and mostconvenient runs from Arequipa areon the Río Chili. More advancedrafting, ranging up to Class VI, beck-ons on the Río Majes, Río Colca, andRío Cotahuasi. See “Extreme SacredValley: Outdoor Adventure Sports”on p. 240, and “Colca Valley” inchapter 9.
• Exploring Colca Canyon: Perhapssecond only to the Callejón de Huay-las Valley in northern Peru for qualityindependent hiking is Colca Canyon.One of the most celebrated hikes is thedescent into the canyon itself, fromthe Cruz del Cóndor lookout. Thereare others that are even longer andmore demanding, but more accessiblehikes are also possible; walking fromone village to another in the valleyshould satisfy most peoples’ urges to
get outdoors. Excursions on horsebackthroughout the valley and into thecanyon are also possible. Hard-coresports enthusiasts might take onremote Cotahuasi Canyon, deeper andmore rugged even than Colca. See“Colca Valley” in chapter 9.
• Mountain & Volcano ClimbingNear Arequipa: For mountaineers(and fit, adventurous travelers), thevolcanoes just beyond Arequipa areperfect for some of Peru’s bestascents. Several don’t demand techni-cal skills. Towering El Misti, whichforms part of the Arequipa skyline, isan extremely popular climb, and thecity’s other major volcano, Chachani,also presents an accessible ascent.Peaks in the Colca Valley are great forserious climbers; these include theAmpato Volcano and Coropuna,which, at more than 6,425m (21,079ft.) is perhaps the most stunningmountain in the Cotahuasi Valleyand is for specialists only. See “ColcaValley” in chapter 9.
• Spotting Birds & Wildlife in thePeruvian Amazon: Peru’s Amazonrainforest is some of the most biolog-ically diverse on the planet. Thesoutheastern jungle and its two prin-cipal protected areas, the TambopataNational Reserve and the Manu Bio-sphere Reserve, are terrific for view-ing wildlife and more than 1,000species of birds. One of the greatbirding spectacles is the sight of thou-sands of macaws and parrots feedingat a clay lick. Keep your eyes peeledfor more elusive wildlife, such ascaimans, river otters, and evenjaguars and tapirs. See “The SouthernAmazon Jungle” in chapter 10.
• Surfing the Waves of Peru’s PacificCoast: Brazil might be more popu-larly known as a surfing destination,
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6 The Best Outdoor Experiences
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but wave connoisseurs dig Peru, with2,000km (1,200 miles) of Pacificcoastline and a great variety of left andright reef breaks, point breaks, andbig-time waves. Beaches are mostlyuncrowded, but the water is cold, andmost surfers wear wet suits year-round. More than two dozen beachesattract surfistas. Northern Peru, bestfrom October to March, is the topchoice of many; surfers hang out inthe easygoing fishing village of Huan-chaco, but the biggest and best wavesin Peru are found at Puerto Chicama(also called Puerto Malabrigo), about80km (50 miles) up the coast fromTrujillo. The best beaches in southernPeru, where surfing is best from Aprilto December (and at its peak in May),are Punta Hermosa, Punta Rocas,Cerro Azul, and Pico Alto. See “SideTrips from Lima” in chapter 5, and“Trujillo” in chapter 11.
• Trekking & Climbing in theCordillera Blanca: The CordilleraBlanca, the highest tropical moun-tain chain in the world, is almostwholly contained in the protectedHuascarán National Park. For walk-ers and mountaineers, the scenery of
snowcapped peaks, glaciers, lakes,and rivers is unrivaled in Peru. Fiftysummits soar between 4,800 and6,662m (15,748–21,857 ft.) high, sonaturally, expert mountaineers aredrawn to the Cordillera, but trekkingand climbing opportunities aboundfor less experienced outdoor types.The classic trek is the 4- to 5-daySanta Cruz–Llanganuco route, oneof the most beautiful in South Amer-ica. See “Huaraz & the CordilleraBlanca” in chapter 11.
• Mountain Biking in the Callejón deHuaylas: Mountain biking is devel-oping some legs in Peru. The top spotis the valley near the CordilleraBlanca, the pristine mountain rangein central Peru. Hundreds of moun-tain and valley horse trails lace lushfields and push past picturesqueAndean villages and alpine lakes.Hard-core peddlers can test their lungcapacity climbing to 5,000m(16,400-ft.) mountain passes. Forcycling camaraderie, check out theSemana del Andinismo in Huaraz,which features a mountain-bike com-petition. See “Huaraz & theCordillera Blanca” in chapter 11.
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7 The Best Architecture• Colonial Lima: The old center of
Lima Centro preserves a wealth offine colonial-era buildings that havesurvived fires, earthquakes, anddecades of inattention. Churchesinclude San Pedro (the best-preservedexample of early colonial religiousarchitecture in the city), La Merced,and San Agustín. Equally interestingare the historic quarter’s few remain-ing casas coloniales, such as Casa Riva-Agüero, Casa Aliaga, and Casa deOsambela Oquendo. Though thecapital’s unruliness makes appreciat-ing its colonial core a bit daunting,
it’s worth the effort. See “What to See& Do” in chapter 5.
• Cusco’s Incan Masonry: Everywherein Cusco’s old center are stunningIncan walls, made of giant graniteblocks so amazingly carved that theyfit together without mortar, like jig-saw puzzle pieces. For the most part,the colonial architecture has notstood up nearly as well as the Incas’bold structures, which are virtuallyearthquake proof. The best examplesare the curved stones at Qoricancha;along Hatunrumiyoc, an alleywaylined with polygonal stones and
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featuring a 12-angled stone; andanother pedestrian-only alleyway,Inca Roca, which has a series ofstones that forms the shape of apuma. See “The Magic of IncanStones: A Walking Tour” on p. 214.
• Moray: A peculiar Incan site with amystical reputation, Moray isn’t theIncan version of the Nasca Lines,although it sure looks like it could be.A series of inscrutable ringed terracessculpted in the earth, the deep-setbowls formed an experimental agri-cultural center to test new crops andconditions. The different levels pro-duce microclimates, with remarkabledifferences in temperature from topto bottom. See “Urubamba & Envi-rons” in chapter 8.
• Ollantaytambo’s Old Town: Though“Ollanta” is best known for its Incanruins perched on an outcrop, equallyspectacular is the grid of perfectlyconstructed canchas, or city blocks,that reveal the Incas as masterfulurban planners as well as stonema-sons. The 15th-century canchas,amazingly preserved, each had a singleentrance opening onto a main court-yard. Rippling alongside the lovelystone streets run canals that carrywater down from the mountains. See“Ollantaytambo” in chapter 8.
• Machu Picchu’s Temple of the Sun:Even as ruins, Machu Picchu rises tothe stature of great architecture. Bril-liant elements of design and stonema-sonry can be found around everycorner, but perhaps the greatestexample of architectural prowess isthe Temple of the Sun. A taperedtower, it has the finest stonework inMachu Picchu. A perfectly posi-tioned window allows the sun’s raysto come streaming through at dawnon the South American winter sol-stice in June, illuminating the stone
at the center of the temple. A cavebelow the temple, carved out of therock, has a beautifully sculpted altarand series of niches that create mes-merizing morning shadows. See“Machu Picchu & the Inca Trail” inchapter 8.
• Colonial Arequipa: The colonialcore of Arequipa, Peru’s second city, isthe most graceful and harmonious inthe country. Most of its elegant man-sions and churches are carved fromsillar, or white volcanic stone. ThePlaza de Armas is one of the prettiestmain squares in Peru, even though thecathedral was recently damaged by amajor earthquake. Other colonialchurches of note are La Compañía,San Francisco, San Agustín, and theMonasterio de la Recoleta. Arequipaalso has some of Peru’s finest colonialseigniorial homes, which featurebeautiful courtyards, elaboratelycarved stone facades, and period fur-nishings. Don’t miss Casa del Moral,Casa Ricketts, and Casa Arróspide.See “Arequipa” in chapter 9.
• Iquitos’s Unique Structures: Ahumid Amazon river city, Iquitosmight not be a place you’d expect tofind distinguished architecture, butthe rubber barons who made for-tunes in the 19th century lined theMalecón Tarapacá riverfront withhandsome mansions covered in col-orful Portuguese glazed tiles, orazulejos. The best are Casa Hernán-dez, Casa Cohen, Casa Morey, andthe Logia Unión Amazónica. Alsocheck out the Casa de Fierro,designed by Gustave Eiffel andentirely constructed of iron in Parisand shipped to Peru, or the wildwooden houses on stilts in the often-flooded shantytown district of Belén.See “Iquitos & the Northern Ama-zon” in chapter 10.
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• Trujillo’s Casas Antiguas: The color-ful pastel facades and unique iron win-dow grilles of Trujillo’s colonial- andrepublican-era houses represent one ofPeru’s finest architectural ensembles.Several have splendid interior court-yards and mudéjar-style (Moorish-Christian) details. Fine homes gracethe lovely Plaza de Armas and thestreets that radiate out from it. Amongthose outfitted with historic furnish-ings and open to the public are PalacioIturregui, Casa Urquiaga (whereSimón Bolívar once lived), Casa de la Emancipación, Casa Ganoza Chopitea, and Casa Orbegoso. See“Trujillo” in chapter 11.
• Cumbe Mayo’s Aqueduct: Thisweird and wonderful spot near Caja-marca draws visitors for its strangerock formations that mimic a stoneforest, but a structure engineeredby man, a pre-Incan aqueductconstructed around 1000 B.C., ispure genius. The extraordinary 8km (5-mile) canal is carved from vol-canic stone in perfect lines to collectand redirect water on its way to thePacific Ocean. Right angles slow the flow of water and ease the effectsof erosion. The aqueduct is likelythe oldest man-made structure inSouth America. See “Cajamarca” in chapter 11.
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8 The Best Festivals & Celebrations• Fiesta de la Cruz (across Peru): The
Festival of the Cross isn’t as solemnlyCatholic as it might sound. Best inLima, Cusco, and Ica, the festivaldoes feature cross processions(although the decorated crosses arevibrant), but it also displays a surfeitof folk music and dance, the high-light being the daring “scissorsdancers,” who once performed ontop of churches.
• El Señor de los Milagros (Lima):The Artist Once Again Known asPrince would love this highly religiousprocession, with tens of thousands ofparticipants all clad in bright purple.The Lord of Miracles, the largest pro-cession in South America, lasts a full24 hours. It venerates a miraculouspainting of Jesus Christ, which wascreated by an Angolan slave and sur-vived the devastating 1746 earth-quake, even though almost everythingaround it was felled.
• Inti Raymi (Cusco): The Festival ofthe Sun, one of the greatest pageantsin South America, celebrates the win-ter solstice and honors the Incan sungod with a bounty of colorful Andean
parades, music, and dance. It takesover Cusco and transforms the Sac-sayhuamán ruins overlooking the cityinto a majestic stage.
• Virgen del Carmen (Paucartambo):The tiny, remote Andean colonial vil-lage of Paucartambo is about 4 hoursfrom Cusco, but it hosts one of Peru’swildest festivals. Its 3 days of dance,revelry, drinking, and outlandish,scary costumes pack in thousandswho camp all over town (there’salmost nowhere to stay) and thenwind up at the cemetery.
• Virgen de la Candelaria (Puno):Puno, perhaps the epicenter of Peru-vian folklore, imbues its festivals witha unique vibrancy. Candlemas (orVirgen de la Candelaria), which isspread over 2 weeks, is one of thegreatest folk religious festivals inSouth America, with an explosion ofmusic, dance, and some of the mostfantastic costumes and masks seenanywhere.
• Puno Week (Puno): Puno, the fiestacapital of Peru, rises to the occasionfor a full week every November tomark its Amerindian roots. A huge
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procession from Lake Titicaca intotown remembers the legend of thefirst Incan emperor, who emergedfrom the world’s highest navigablelake to establish the Incan Empire.
The procession deviates into dance,music, and oblivion. Day of theDead, early in the week, is a joyouscelebration that prompts picnics atcemeteries.
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9 The Best Hotels• Miraflores Park Hotel, Lima
(& 01/242-3000): The top businesstraveler’s hotel in Lima, this oasis ofrefinement and luxury is still smallenough to cater to your every whim.The Park Hotel is the height of style,with handsome, spacious rooms,huge bathrooms, and an elegantrestaurant and bar. There’s a smallpool and a gym/sauna on the topfloor, overlooking the malecón, parks,and the coastline. See p. 118.
• Country Club Lima Hotel, Lima(& 01/611-9000): A revivedhacienda-style hotel from the 1920s,this grand estate is luxurious and hasplenty of character, but it remains arelaxed place that’s good for families.Given its high standards, it’s not abad deal, either. At this good retreatfrom the stress of modern Lima, thecountry club aspect isn’t neglected:Golf and tennis are both available.See p. 123.
• Libertador Palacio del Inka, Cusco(& 084/231-961): This distin-guished luxury hotel in Cusco is justa couple of blocks from the Plaza deArmas and right across the streetfrom the Incan Temple of the Sun.Elegant and traditional, with excel-lent service, the Libertador inhabits acolonial house where FranciscoPizarro once lived. Full of art andantiques, the rooms are refined withcolonial touches. See p. 193.
• Hotel Monasterio, Cusco (& 084/241-777): Extraordinarily carved outof a 16th-century monastery, itselfbuilt over the foundations of anIncan palace, this Orient-Express
hotel is the most dignified and his-toric place to stay in Peru. With itsown gilded chapel and 18th-centuryCusco School art collection, it’s anattraction in its own right. Rooms aregracefully decorated with colonialtouches, particularly the rooms offthe serene first courtyard. See p. 193.
• Casa Andina Private Collection,Yanahuara (& 084/976-550): TheSacred Valley is exploding with newupscale accommodations, and this isone of the best, a large, mountain-chalet style hotel. Its lovely settinghas great mountain views and is com-plemented by gardens and a new pooland spa. The best rooms are the two-story suites with private balconies.See p. 244.
• Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge,Machu Picchu (& 084/246-419):Peru’s best-known hotel benefits fromone of the world’s most enviable loca-tions, perched high on a mountain,just paces from the ruins of MachuPicchu. Remodeled and now charm-ingly rustic, with a nice restaurantand spectacular gardens boasting jaw-dropping views of the Incan citadel,it is always in high demand, eventhough it costs a very pretty pennyfor the privilege of a stay. It’s one ofthose places where if you have to askthe price, you probably should con-sider alternatives. See p. 276.
• Machu Picchu Pueblo Hotel, AguasCalientes (& 084/211-122, or084/245-314 for reservations): It’snot next to the ruins, but this rustichotel, a compound of bungalowsensconced in lush tropical gardens
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and cloud forest, is full of characterand by far the nicest place in AguasCalientes. With loads of nature trailsand guided activities, it’s a superbretreat for naturalists. And after a dayat Machu Picchu, the spring-fed poolis a great alternative to the thermalbaths in town. Junior suites, withfireplaces and small terraces, are themost coveted rooms. See p. 277.
• Casa Andina Private Collection,Puno (& 051/365-992): A brand-new, upscale hotel perched on thebanks of Lake Titicaca, this small butsmart hotel has style and excellentservice to go along with its stupen-dous views of the lake. If you canmanage it, check out the fabulousluxury suite, with some of the mostenviable views anywhere. See p. 296.
• Sonesta Posada del Inca Lake Titi-caca, Puno (& 051/364-111): Grac-ing the shores of Lake Titicaca, thishotel is warmly designed, with a roar-ing fireplace and lots of Peruvian art.Rooms are spacious and comfortable,
and many have great views of the lake.Families might be especially interestedin the tiny version of a Lake Titicacafloating community. See p. 296.
• Colca Lodge, Coporaque (& 054/202-587): A handsome Colca Valleyecolodge that hugs the banks of theriver, this rustic hotel is large enoughto accommodate groups but sensi-tively designed enough to ensure pri-vacy and serenity. That’s especiallytrue if you find your way to the beau-tiful stone thermal pools, which noother hotel in the zone can match.See p. 329.
• Hotel Libertador Trujillo, Trujillo(& 044/232-741). One of the finesthotels in northern Peru, the Liberta-dor boasts a coveted location over-looking Trujillo’s lovely Plaza deArmas. It inhabits a striking colonialmansion and features nice extras, likea courtyard patio, good restaurant,outdoor pool, and both dry andsteam saunas. Best of all, it’s a verygood value. See p. 380.
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10 The Best Small Hotels, Inns & Lodges• Amazon Yarapa River Lodge, north-
ern Amazon (& 800/771-3100 or065/993-1172). A splendid, award-winning conservationist lodge goodenough to be partnered with CornellUniversity and host its faculty andstudents at its field lab, this place isalso perfect for amateur botanists andbiologists. Though isolated near theReserva Nacional Pacaya-Samiria, thelargest of Peru’s protected areas andone of the top spots for wildlife view-ing, the lodge, built by local artisans,is unexpectedly comfortable andattractive, with huge private bunga-lows, a lounge, and a hammock houseoverlooking the river.
• Reserva Amazónica Lodge, Tam-bopata (& 800/442-5042 or 01/610-0400). The swankest lodge in the
Peruvian Amazon, this is the place fora comfortable jungle experience.You’ll still get plenty of jungle,whether spotting birds on a canopywalk, watching for caimans along theriver, and stalking monkeys on a smallisland. But when it comes time torelax, you’ll do it in style with cock-tails and dinner in the stylish mainhouse before retiring to your plushAfrican-style bungalow. See p. 340.
• Explorer’s Inn, Tambopata (& 01/447-8888): One of the mostrenowned and respected ecolodges inthe Peruvian Amazon is this 30-year-old pioneer that hosts both eco-tourists and scientists. About 3 hoursupriver from Puerto Maldonado, theinn—which features thatched-roofbungalows—is superb for viewing
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otters, monkeys, and jungle birds. Seep. 341.
• Tahuayo Lodge, northern Amazon(& 800/262-9669). The top lodgein Peru’s northern Amazon, about 4hours from Iquitos and associatedwith the Rainforest ConservationFund, is the only lodge with access tothe terrific Tamshiyacu-TahuayoReserve, ideal for wildlife viewing. It’sremote and small, but features excel-lent jungle programs, including zip-line canopy ropes for treetop natureviewing. See p. 359.
• La Posada del Parque Hostal, Lima(& 01/433-2412): A gregariousowner runs this great-value small inn,carved out of a 1920s mansion on anexceedingly peaceful street—a rarecommodity near the center of Lima.The house bursts with Peruvian pop-ular art, and rooms are spacious andnicely maintained for the bargainprice. See p. 118.
• Niños Hotel, Cusco (& 084/231-424): Even if this great little innhad no redeeming social and moralvalue, it would still be one of the bestinformal places to stay in Peru. Thefact that it operates as part of a foun-dation that dedicates its profits tohelping and housing Cusco’s streetchildren is a welcome bonus. Thesmall Dutch-owned hotel, located ina restored and nicely if simply deco-rated colonial house, is charming,immaculate, and a great value. Thetrick is getting a reservation—trymany months in advance of yourarrival. See p. 197.
• Torre Dorada, Cusco (& 084/241-698): Even though it’s outsidethe city center, this exceptional,extremely friendly, and family-runboutique hotel, in a quiet residentialneighborhood 5 minutes from down-town Cusco, more than makes up forthe inconvenience with superb serv-ice and a warm ambience. The inn
isn’t luxurious, but you won’t find afriendlier place in Peru, and thebreakfast buffet is better than mosttop-flight hotels. See p. 202.
• Hostal Marani, Cusco (& 084/249-462): Cusco is littered with all kindsof comfortable, good-value hostales,but this one, much like the NiñosHotel, wears its heart and commit-ment to social causes and disadvan-taged Peruvian youth on its doorstep.Helping to fund initiatives of aDutch foundation, the inn, whichoccupies a lovely colonial house inSan Blas, is one of the best bargains intown, with excellent large rooms builtaround a relaxing Spanish-stylecourtyard. It’s a win-win. See p. 202.
• Hostal Pisaq, Pisac (&/fax 084/203-062): On the main square ofPisac, which is overrun on marketdays, this friendly little inn has neatfeatures for a budget hostel: hand-painted murals, a sauna, an attrac-tive courtyard, and a little cafeserving home-cooked meals andgreat pizza from a wood-burningoven. See p. 239.
• Libertador Valle Sagrado Lodge,Yanahuara (& 084/251-526): Asmall hotel that looks and feels like atiny colonial rural village, this is agreat spot to absorb the relaxing feeland gorgeous sights of the SacredValley. Isolated and serene, withenchanting views and very comfort-able rooms and a nice restaurant, it’sthe kind of place for discriminatingindividual travelers who’d rather notshare a dining room with largegroups. See p. 245.
• El Albergue, Ollantaytambo (&/fax084/204-014): An American-ownedhostel right next to the railroadtracks—but much quieter than thatwould indicate—this comfortable lit-tle place has just a few rooms andshared bathrooms. Beds are excellent,and the vibe, with relaxing gardens
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and Labrador retrievers runningaround, is great. There’s also a coolwood-fired sauna. See p. 253.
• Casa Arequipa, Arequipa (& 054/284-219): The best new small hotel inPeru is this elite 1950s mansion mas-querading as a sophisticated bed andbreakfast. It feels like a European bou-tique hotel, with luxury linens, furnish-ings, and bathrooms that rival the finestupscale hotels in the country, but for afraction of the price. Though it’s in aresidential neighborhood that’s a shorttaxi ride from the beautiful colonialdowntown of Arequipa, that minorinconvenience is a very small price topay. The breakfast buffet and personalattention will make you think you’rein a large five-star hotel. See p. 310.
• La Casa de Melgar Hostal, Arequipa(&/fax 054/222-459): In a prettycolonial house made of sillar stone,this small inn exudes style and charm.With thick walls, multiple interiorcourtyards, and gardens, it’s muchnicer than most inexpensive hotels.Ground-floor rooms with vaultedbrick ceilings look like they’re straightout of a movie shoot. See p. 313.
• Parador del Colca, Yanque (& 01/242-3425): A favorite of sophisti-cated travelers venturing into the rus-tic Colca Canyon, the Parador, nowowned by Orient-Express, has aunique country charm and elegance.Rooms have loft spaces, and there are
private patios with fire pits, an excel-lent dining room serving fresh coun-try meals, and lots of hiking andhorseback-riding opportunities. Itenjoys sprawling gardens and views ofthe canyon. In the midst of an expan-sion and upgrade, with planned indi-vidual luxury casitas, the tiny inn isworth checking out while it’s still atrue bargain, since it’s bound tobecome one of the swankest rusticinns in the country. See p. 329.
• Hotel Posada del Puruay, Cajamarca(& 076/828-318, or 01/336-7869for reservations): In the gorgeoushighland countryside just outsideCajamarca, this country hotel rests ina restored 1830 farmhouse. Thegrounds, with gardens, horses, andamenities such as a barbecue pit, aresure-fire selling points, but the innalso has huge rooms, friendly personalservice, a very good restaurant, and anextensive video library. See p. 403.
• Hacienda San Vicente, Cajamarca(& 076/822-644): A small andfunky inn in a former hacienda, thisunique place probably isn’t for every-one. Its oddball rooms are like cavescarved into the hillside (rock wallseven form a headboard or two).Everything is just a tad “off,” butdelightfully so. With skylights formoon views and a Gaudí-esquechapel on the premises, this place isn’tafraid to be itself. See p. 404.
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11 The Best Local Dining Experiences• Barbecuing Peruvian-Style: The
Peruvian version of a barbecue get-together is called a pachamanca; it’sbasically cooking meat and veggiesover coals or hot stones in a hole inthe ground. On weekends in thecountryside, mostly in the moun-tains, you’ll see families gatheredaround smoky subterranean grills,cooking up pork or beef and potatoes
and vegetables. (You can also getpachamanca-style dishes in some tra-ditional restaurants.)
• Chugging Chicha: An ancientAndean tradition is the brewing ofchicha, beer made from fermentedmaize. You can find it at a few tradi-tional restaurants, but for an authen-tic Andean experience, the best placeto get it is at a simple bar or home
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that flies the chicha flag—a long polewith a red flag or, often, balloon—which is the local way of advertisingthat there’s home-brewed chichaavailable inside. Served warm, inmonstrous tumblers for a few pen-nies, it’s not to many foreigners’ lik-ing, but it’s one of the best ways to gonative. Chicha morada, a refreshmentmade from blue corn, is somethingaltogether different: It’s sweet andnonalcoholic, and it actually tastesgood (especially with ceviche).
• Going Native with Jungle Cuisine:Peru’s vast Amazon is full of exoticcritters and plants, so it’s logical that itwould produce its own unique cui-sine. Some of what restaurateurs dealin is endangered animals, though, so Idon’t advise satisfying your curiosityto try sea-turtle soup or caiman, evenif the locals do it. Local jungle dishesthat you don’t have to feel bad abouttrying include patarashca, a steamedriver fish wrapped in banana leaves;juanes, a kind of rice tamale; tim-buche, a thick soup made with localfish; paiche, an Amazon-size local fish;and chonta, a hearts of palm salad. Ifyou don’t make it to the jungle,another way of going native (in thehighlands and along the coast) is toeat cuy, or guinea pig. See chapter 9.
• Relaxing at a Quinta: There are ele-gant restaurants in Lima, Cusco, Are-quipa, and Iquitos, but there’snothing quite like an informalquinta—an open-air restaurant spe-cializing in Andean home-cooking.It’s an Andean tradition perhaps bestexplored in the crisp air of Cusco,which has a trio of quintas that areespecially popular with locals onweekends. Look for informal gardenor courtyard settings, large portionsof Peruvian cooking, and reasonableprices. Most quintas are open only forlunch, so plan on it as your main
meal of the day. Not only will you eatwell, but it’s also a great way to spenda sunny afternoon. See “Cusco’sQuintas” on p. 207.
• Savoring a Pisco Sour: Peru’snational drink is the pisco sour, adelicious concoction made from thewhite-grape brandy called pisco.Made frothy when mixed with eggwhites, lemon juice, sugar, and bit-ters, it’s cold and complex, the closestthing to a Peruvian margarita. Tryone with ceviche or a robust Andeanmeal—or just knock ’em back late atnight at a gringo-filled bar.
• Self-Medicating with Mate deCoca: Coca-leaf tea, a perfectly legallocal drink that has been a traditionin the Andes for centuries, is a greatway to deal with the high altitude ofthe mountains, which can make yourhead spin and your body reel. Assoon as you hit Cusco or Puno, headstraight for the mate de coca—mosthotels have it at the ready for theirguests. And if that doesn’t work, strapon the oxygen tank (many hotels sup-ply that for their guests, too).
• Slurping Ceviche: One of the classicdishes of Peruvian coastal cooking isceviche—raw fish and shellfish mari-nated in lime or lemon juice and hotchile peppers, and served with rawonion, sweet potato, and toastedcorn. It’s wonderfully refreshing andspicy. The best place to try one? Aseaside cevichería, specializing inumpteen varieties of deliciously freshceviche.
• Touring Ica’s Bodegas: Peru, one ofthe great winemaking countries ofthe world? Probably not, but thesouthern desert coast does have athriving wine industry. The mostfamous product is pisco, but themany traditional bodegas (wineries)throughout the Ica countryside alsomake regular table wines. A few
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bodegas give tours and tastings. Icahosts a hopping Wine Festival inMarch, which is a good time to tourthe region if you’re into wine andgeneral merriment. Harvest time, late
February through April, is the othertime to visit, when you can see peoplecrushing grapes the old-fashionedway—with their feet. See “Ica” inchapter 6.
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12 The Best Restaurants• Astrid y Gastón, Lima (& 01/
444-1496): One of the coolest restau-rants in the country is this stylishmodern place serving a creative brandof creole-Mediterranean fare. Behind anondescript facade in the Mirafloresdistrict, a husband/wife team cooksand runs the colorful colonial diningroom and cozy bar, favored by Limeñoregulars. See p. 127.
• Cebichería La Mar, Lima (& 01/421-3365): A designer and celebrity-chef ’s take on the neighborhoodcevichería, this is the hottest restau-rant in Lima. It’s only open for lunch,though, and doesn’t take reservations,so it’s a bit of a challenge to get a seatat this stylish hotspot. The focus is onmoderately priced, delicious cevicheand traditional Limeño fare served upwith hip twists. See p. 129.
• La Hamaca, Lima (& 01/242-7978):A mansion stuffed to the rafters withpriceless Peruvian art and antiques,and a maze of spectacularly decoratedsmall dining rooms is a cinematicexperience. Imagine you’re the dueñoof a sprawling hacienda while you dineon classic Peruvian preparations.Retire upstairs for an elegant eveningof dancing on weekends. See p. 128.
• Restaurant Huaca Pucllana, Lima(& 01/445-4042): One of the bestplaces for dining in the capital has themost unique location: within thecompound of an over 1,500-year-oldadobe pyramid. The restaurant is bothhip and relaxed, with a covered terracelooking out over the low pyramid andilluminated excavation walkways. Thecreative Peruvian menu offers new
twists on classic comida criolla (creolecooking). See p. 128.
• Manos Morenas, Lima (& 01/467-0421): The best place for dinner anda show in Lima, this sleek Barrancorestaurant serves good criollo cookingand features peña and Afro-Peruvianmusic and dance nightly. It’s housedin an elegant early 1900s house, veryappealingly converted. The show’snot inexpensive, but it’s usually agreat evening out. See p. 132.
• Restaurante Illary (Hotel Monas-terio), Cusco (& 084/243-820):Cusco’s top fine-dining option iswithin the exclusive confines of the tophotel in town. Even if the hotel is outof reach, the restaurant makes the per-fect splurge date in Cusco. Whetheryou sit in the glassed-in corridor over-looking the colonial patio or the maindining room that very much looks thepart of 16th-century monastery, din-ing here is a true treat. The Peruvianspecialties, like the discreet service, areimpeccable. See p. 203.
• Cicciolina, Cusco (& 084/239-510):Cusco’s restaurant scene is constantlyimproving, adding more upscale, fine-dining options, and this new restau-rant, which serves stylish novo Andinocuisine, is the best example of thetrend. You might think you’ve landedin a chic Tuscan country eatery, butthe menu is eclectic, with a soft spotfor unusual spices. The hopping bar isa smart haunt for pre-dinner drinks,though the sexy, hushed dining roomis the sleekest in Cusco. See p. 204.
• MAP Café, Cusco (& 084/242-476): Cusco’s most chic and modern
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restaurant is tucked into the colonialpatio of the city’s great pre-Columbian art museum. It quietlymakes a dramatic statement with itsunderstated, minimalist design: aglass and steel box. The food, nou-veau Andean, is every bit as elegantand cleanly presented. With a superwine list and the opportunity to strollthrough the museum after dinner, it’sa perfect, sophisticated date restau-rant. See p. 205.
• Greens, Cusco (& 084/243-379): Asmall and stylish restaurant in the coolSan Blas district, Greens has a creativemenu and funky decor, including low,comfy sofas and hipster tunes. Theexcellent, surprising menus of inter-national and Peruvian dishes are rea-sonably priced. See p. 206.
• Killa Wasi, Huicho (Sacred Valley)(& 084/201-620): The restaurant ofHotel Sol y Luna, one of the bestplaces to stay in the Sacred Valley,deters guests from venturing out anddraws many from other hotels. Therestaurant is elegant but relaxed, andthe menu is full of creative criollo andnouveau Andean dishes. The pubupstairs is a good spot for a pisco sourlate in the day. See “Urubamba &Environs” in chapter 8.
• Indio Feliz, Aguas Calientes (& 084/211-090): The town at thebottom of Machu Picchu is a littlescrappy, so this Peruvian-Frenchrestaurant really stands out. In anattractive and very popular two-leveldining room, it offers a great-valuethree-course menu. If by chance youjust completed the 4-day Inca Trailtrek, treat yourself to a meal here. See p. 278.
• Sol de Mayo, Arequipa (& 054/254-148): This is the best place intown for traditional Arequipeño cook-ing, which has quite a reputation inPeru. The setting, around a courtyard
garden where strolling musicians play,is delightful. It’s a perfect place to sinkyour teeth into local Peruvian special-ties and is a great place to splurge. Seep. 316.
• La Trattoria del Monasterio, Are-quipa (& 054/204-062): A new, styl-ishly reserved restaurant carved out ofthe city’s most distinguished walls,belonging to the Santa Catalinamonastery, this laid-back Italian spot isa real find. With a menu designed byPeru’s hottest chef, a nice wine list, atrio of quiet dining rooms, and accessi-ble prices, it’s a welcome change fromnoisier and more solicitous restau-rants populating Arequipa’s highlytrafficked restaurant rows. See p. 316.
• Zig Zag, Arequipa (& 054/206-020): This chic and inviting restau-rant has a unique specialty: stone-grilled ostrich. Healthier than othermeats, ostrich is really good, as isanother popular dish served here:alpaca (which is also healthier thanred meat). In this two-level spacewith sillar walls and vaulted ceilings,the grilled meat is not the only thingthat makes this a memorable diningexperience. See p. 317.
• Montecarlo, Iquitos (& 065/232-246): The northern Amazon city ofIquitos has a handful of good restau-rants serving Peruvian and jungle spe-cialties, but this upscale place—glitzyon the outside but relaxed and ele-gant on the inside—is the best. Fishdishes are excellent, as is the service.If you want, you can gamble down-stairs at the casino. See p. 365.
• Club Colonial, Huanchaco (& 044/461-015): An unexpectedly chic andstylish restaurant in the low-keybeach resort of Huanchaco, this Bel-gian-French place has the kind ofambience you’d look to find in Bar-ranco in Lima, not the north coast.The candlelit dining room is like a
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cool expatriate’s house, and the menuis a tantalizing mix of Peruvian andFranco-Belgian items. Whether youorder meat or fresh fish, or even aBelgian standard, you’re in for a treat.See p. 384.
• Pueblo Viejo, Chiclayo (& 074/228-863): Chiclayo might not be thedining capital of Peru, but its bestrestaurant is very good. An attractivetwo-story eatery that serves traditionalbut creative Chiclayano cooking and
comida criolla, Pueblo Viejo reallystands out in the north of Peru. Seep. 394.
• El Querubino, Cajamarca (& 076/830-900): A brightly decoratedrestaurant just off the Plaza de Armas,El Querubino is refined and stylish,but relaxed enough to be popularwith locals. Dinner often features livebut low-key music, and at lunchthere’s a nice daily list of value spe-cials. See p. 406.
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13 The Best Markets & Shopping• Miraflores, Lima: The Peruvian cap-
ital has the biggest number of shopsand selection of goods from acrossthe country, as might be expected.The Miraflores district has dozens ofshops stocked to the rafters withhandicrafts from around Peru. Forone-stop shopping, there are mini-malls of many stalls selling ceramics,textiles, and other souvenirs. The bestsilver jewelry and antiques shops arealso in Miraflores. See “Shopping” inchapter 5.
• Barrio de San Blas, Cusco: Galleriesaround the Plaza de Armas of the oldIncan capital are wonderful for allkinds of wool and alpaca fashions andsilver jewelry. But especially flavorfulis the picturesque and bohemianneighborhood of San Blas, whichrises into the hills above Cusco,bursting with the studios and work-shops of artists and artisans, as well asart galleries and ceramics shops. Youcan pop into several studios and seeartists at work. See “Shopping” inchapter 7.
• Pisac’s Crafts Market: Thousands oftourists descend each Sunday morn-ing on Pisac’s liveliest handicraftsmarket, which takes over the centralplaza and spills across adjoiningstreets. Many sellers, decked out inthe dress typical of their villages, come
from remote populations high in themountains. Pisac is one of the bestspots for colorful Andean textiles,including rugs, alpaca sweaters, andponchos. See “Pisac” in chapter 8.
• Pablo Seminario, Urubamba:Urubamba leaves the Sunday touristhandicrafts markets to other towns inthe Sacred Valley, but it’s home to oneof the coolest ceramics shops in Peru.Pablo Seminario, originally from thenorth of the country, now operatesout of a lovely place that is equal partshome, workshop, storefront, and zoo.His work features funky pre-Columbian motifs. See “Urubamba& Environs” in chapter 8.
• Chinchero’s Handicrafts Market:It’s not as popular as Pisac’s market,but in many ways, Chinchero’s ismore authentic, and the setting is justas spectacular. The big one is on Sun-day, when the tourist buses comethrough, but less-hectic Tuesday andThursday are probably better formaking a deal. The quality of handi-crafts is usually quite excellent. Takeyour camera; the sellers still wear tra-ditional garments. See “Urubamba &Environs” in chapter 8.
• Isla Taquile, Lake Titicaca: TheTaquile islanders are famous for theirdress and exquisite textiles. Travelerscan pick up some of the finest woven
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and embroidered waistbands andwool stocking caps in Peru, includingsome that are normally reserved forcommunity authorities. Becausethey’re so finely made, Taquile textilesare more expensive than the mass-produced handicrafts you’ll find else-where in Peru. Islanders operate aco-op on the main plaza and sell fromstalls during festivals. See “Puno &Lake Titicaca” in chapter 9.
• Arequipa: Alpaca sweaters, ponchos,and hats are classic Peruvian sou-venirs, and you can score them acrossthe Andes and in Lima, but Arequipais the top spot for really excellentexport-quality goods. You’ll find greatdesigns in baby alpaca, vicuña, andwool. Visit any of the shops near thePlaza de Armas, including the alpacaboutiques that now inhabit the oldcloisters of the La Compañía church.Another good spot, for slightly less
swank goods, is the general handi-crafts market (mercado de artesanía),whose stalls are in what used to be the old town jail. See “Arequipa” inchapter 9.
• Barrio Belén, Iquitos: Handicrafts,particularly textiles and other itemsfrom the Shipibo tribe in the Ama-zon, are available at the large artisans’market out by the airport, but shop-ping of a very different sort is pur-sued at the popular market in thewaterfront Barrio de Belén. Thewildly colorful market, which spreadsover several long blocks and is a riotof activity, sells everything under theAmazon sun; let your senses be thejudge. Look for unusual Amazon fishand fruits, and exotic jungle meats,such as monkey and caiman. When itbecomes too much, take a breather atthe fresh juice stands. See “Iquitos &the Northern Amazon” in chapter 10.
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14 The Best Reasons for Bragging Rights• Taking the High Road: The Ferro-
carril Central Andino, called the“Tren Macho,” is the highest railwayin the world, climbing to more than4500m (15,000 ft.) on the way fromLima to Huancayo in the CentralHighlands. Unfortunately, the pas-senger railway has experienced allkinds of problems in recent years;even when it’s on, it only travels oncea month from July to October. If it isrunning, though, it’s a truly thrillingand occasionally vertigo-inducingride. If you’re one of the lucky few toride it, you’ve got plenty to bragabout. See chapter 5.
• Surfing Big Sand: The southerndesert of Peru is a strange, unrelent-ing landscape, but it has the highestsand dunes in South America. An X-sport fast gaining in popularity issurfing the dunes on sand boards and
areneros (dune buggies). The biggestare near Nasca, but probably the pret-tiest spot is the dunes that ring theHuacachina Lagoon outside of Ica.See “Ica” in chapter 6.
• Gazing at the Stars at Sacsay-huamán: The Sacsayhuamán ruinsare amazing enough by day; imaginethose immense, elegantly laid stonesat night, high above Cusco. Atnight, it won’t be hard to perceivethe Incas’ worship of the naturalworld, in which the moon was adeity. If your visit coincides with afull moon in that gargantuan sky,you’ll be talking about it back homefor months. A similar experiencewould be hiking along the Inca Trailand spending that last night beforepushing on to Machu Picchu undera full moon. See “What to See &Do” in chapter 7.
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• Lighting It Up at Tres Cruces:Beyond the remote Andean village ofPaucartambo, known for its Virgende Carmen festival, is Tres Cruces,perched on a mountain ridge on theedge of the Amazon basin. Famousfor its almost hallucinogenic, multi-hued sunrise, the spot was held sacredby the Incas, and it’s not hard to seewhy. During the winter months(May–July), the special effects arebeyond belief. To enhance your brag-ging rights, note that Tres Cruces is aroyal pain to reach. See “Side Tripsfrom Cusco” in chapter 7.
• Hopping the Hiram BinghamTrain to Machu Picchu: Once upona time, you could zip to the mostfamous Incan ruins by helicopter, butfor my money, the new old-worldluxury train named for the discovererof Machu Picchu is even better. Withwood-paneled cars, full white-glovemeal and cocktail service, on-boardPeruvian musicians, and an includedtour of the ruins, it’s definitely travel-ing in style. Sure, it costs several timesthe regular tourist train, but this isMachu Picchu, right? See “MachuPicchu & the Inca Trail” in chapter 8.
• Scaling Huayna Picchu in RecordTime: Huayna Picchu hovers aboveMachu Picchu in the classic postcardshot of the ruins. People of all agesand decent physical condition canclimb to the summit; to properlyboast, you’ve got to race the steepstone path in close to record time(about 15 min. at last report). Even ifyou don’t beat the record, you cansavor the stunning, indescribableview as you wait for your heart rate toreturn to normal. See “Machu Picchu& the Inca Trail” in chapter 8.
• Surviving “Dead Woman’s Pass”:Hiking the Inca Trail to Machu Pic-chu is one of the greatest ecoadven-tures on the planet. Enough said. See
“Machu Picchu & the Inca Trail” inchapter 8.
• Running a Class VI in ColcaCanyon: Extremely technical white-water rafting in the Colca (as well asCotahuasi) Canyon is the stuff thatbragging was made for. Imaginetelling your friends that you hurtleddown the river at the bottom of acanyon more than twice as deep asthe Grand Canyon! This is for hard-core runners only; trips are expensiveand lengthy. See “Colca Valley” inchapter 9.
• Rumbling by Truck to Puerto Mal-donado: If you like tests of sheer per-severance, travel by truck from Cuscoto Puerto Maldonado, the gateway tothe Tambopata Reserve in the south-ern Amazon. It’ll take between 3 and10 days on a road that’s 95% unpaved,but what’s time (and a sore body) to agood story? See “The Southern Ama-zon Jungle” in chapter 10.
• Trippin’ Amazon-Style: If spottingwildlife and trekking through pri-mary rainforest isn’t stimulatingenough, you can do your best to imi-tate the ancient ways of Amazontribes and shamans by taking part inan ayahuasca ceremony. The naturalhallucinogenic potion, made ofherbs, roots, and other plants, is sup-posed to mess with your mind. Butfor locals, it’s a deeply respected rit-ual. See “Iquitos & the NorthernAmazon” in chapter 10.
• Fishing for Piranha: If you visit ajungle lodge, you might have theopportunity to head out on the Ama-zon or its tributaries in a dugoutcanoe to fish for piranha. Most aresurprisingly small, but their famousteeth are very much present. For aspecial dinner, have the lodge cookfry ’em up for you that night. See“Iquitos & the Northern Amazon” inchapter 10.
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• Bagging 6,000m Peaks in theCordillera Blanca: For expertclimbers, the Cordillera Blanca is amountaineering mecca. From Mayto September, fit climbers can score several 6,000m (20,000-ft.)summits in the Parque Nacional
Huascarán in just a couple weeks.Huascarán, at 6,768m (22,205 ft.),is the big one, the highest mountainin the Peruvian Andes and the tallesttropical mountain in the world. See“Huaraz & the Cordillera Blanca” inchapter 11.
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15 The Best of Peru Online• www.peru.info: The most compre-
hensive official Peru site, recentlyrevamped, is the website ofPromPerú. It has detailed sections onPeruvian history, festivals, trip-plan-ning, and outdoor “adrenalinerushes,” all with extensive pull-downmenus, as well as a stock of photoand video images and audio files.
• www.saexplorers.org: The website ofthe rightly famous South AmericanExplorers (based in Ithaca, New York,with clubhouses in Lima, Cusco, andQuito, Ecuador) has vital informationsuch as travel advisories, insuranceproviders, and links to websites on spe-cific Peruvian destinations. You canalso order the club’s “InformationPacket” of fact sheets and member tips.
• http://gci275.com/peru: “PeruvianGraffiti,” a website by an Americanjournalist and former resident ofPeru, is an engaging compendium ofPeruvian history, politics, media, andculture, as well as the latest news,from a very personal perspective. It’san interesting place to start to get ahandle on a complicated nation.
• www.andeantravelweb.com/peru:The Andean Travel Web, a privatewebsite run by gringos in Peru, is aminiguide to the country, with
information on all the major desti-nations and activities, transporta-tion, the latest in Inca Trailregulations, local tour operators, andhelpful things such as ecotourismlinks. It doesn’t cover northern Peru,however, sticking to the most welltrodden regions.
• ht tp : / /gorp .away. com/gorp/location/latamer/peru.htm: Thetravel wholesaler GORP features anentire page of personal essays on thegreat outdoors and adventure sportsin Peru, including pieces on runningthe Amazon and birding, and a Top20 of adventure activities.
• www.livinginperu.com: An English-language site directed toward foreignresidents of Peru, this is the best placeto get the latest news on Peru, includ-ing transportation issues, strikes, polit-ical developments, and other practicalmatters that affect not only residentsbut visitors. It also contains up-to-datecultural and event information.
• www.traficoperu.com: This onlinetravel agent has details on practicalmatters—domestic airlines, bustransportation, and hotels—plus afew cheap domestic packages, and agood selection of regional and citymaps.
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