the carolinas, georgia & the south trips - lonely...
TRANSCRIPT
Alex LevitonKevin Raub, Adam Skolnick, Emily Matchar
TRIPSThe Carolinas,
Georgia & the South
65 THEMED ITINERARIES 1192 LOCAL PLACES TO SEE
© Lonely Planet Publications
1ST EDITIONPublished March 2009
USA $19.99 UK £14.99
Best TripsTrips starred with the Best Trip icon are our hands-down favorites. We highly recommend these trips.
Expert-Recommended TripsWe teamed up with local experts, including a top chef, a Civil War historian and a former mayor of Bardstown (the “Bourbon Capital of the World”), who shared with us their favorite trips. These are listed on p31.
Ecofriendly & Sustainable OptionsListings that have a green mission and have an ecofriendly or sustainable mantra are listed in our GreenDex, p422.
Trip InformationPractical details for points of interest within trips can be found at the end of every trip under Trip Information. Prices in this book are listed as a range to account for seasonal varia-tions. Under Eat, “mains” means main courses or entrées. Under Sleep, “r” means rooms.% Telephoneh Opening hoursc Family-friendly Listings accompanied by this icon are great for families with young children. Pet-friendly Listings accompanied by this icon allow dogs (and sometimes other pets).
Link Your TripExtend your trip with this handy feature that lists nearby trips worth combining.
Maps & Route ShieldsRegional maps show the trip number at the starting point of the trip. Interstate freeway US highway State highway Country road
Theme IconsAll trips are themed using the following icons.
Great, must-do trips that represent the region
Trips that follow a well-known route, with extra insider detail
Trips to BBQ joints, po’boy haunts, Cajun restaurants and more
Trips through the mountains, along backroads, to national parks and the coast
Trips back in time, to historic towns and trips with a musical twist
Trips to haunted pubs, Gothic sites, roadside curios and other oddball attractions
Trips for urbanites
Trips no more than a few hours from a hub city
80
G4
95
101
How to Use this Book
MexicoGulf of
Rive
siss
ipM
ispi
r
Indiana
Illinois
Missouri
Tennessee
Arkansas
Louisiana
Mississippi
Alabama
Texas
Hannibal
KnoxFort
Owensboro
Elizabethtown
GreenBowling
Paducah
Hopkinsville
HickmanMurray
Clarksville
St LouisCITYJEFFERSON
Yellville
MountainHome
CITYKANSAS
Fayetteville
Eureka Springs
Ponca
Franklin
Dyersburg
Jackson
Sheffield
Florence
NASHVILLE
Anniston
ShoalsMuscle
Tupelo
Tuscaloosa
Birmingham
Jonesboro
Memphis
Mountain ViewMarshall
HotSprings
ROCKLITTLE
Conway
Shelby
Clarksdale
Tutwiler
Merigold
Greenwood
Belzoni
LelandIndianola
Pine Bluff
Greenville
Cleveland
Oxford
MONTGOMERY
Philadelphia
Selma
Mobile
BiloxiGulf Shores
Canton
VicksburgJACKSON
Port Gibson
Ruston Monroe
Alexandria
Natchez
New OrleansWestwego
Vacherie
Mandeville
St Francisville
DonaldsonvilleLafayette
Avery Island
New
ROUGEBATON
Ozark
Winslow
SmithFort
Texarkana
Hope
Shreveport
Natchitoches
Oberlin
CharlesLake
Eunice
RussellvilleClarksville
ThibodauxIberia
Dothan
Columbus
Gadsden
Chattanooga
Chickamauga
Cookeville
Bardstown
Louisville
Mammoth CaveNational Park
ParkMilitaryNational
Shiloh
ForestNationalKisatchie
NationalOuachita
Forest
Hot SpringsNational
Park
NationalJean Lafitte
Historic ParkLake Fausse Pointe
State Park
MississippiDelta
eeR
iver
Te nne
ss
River
Arkansas
60
33
5
62
61
5957
65
394
37
363534
54 56
53414051
38
11
46
1 42 45
4852
47
49 50
64
63
70
44
71
40
64
6570
57
65
55
24
40
59
65
20
155
40
55
65
59
20
10
20
55
59
12
10
30
20
10
49
27
27
98
64123
64
72
436
4515
82
78
7278
63
661465
67
49E
3
167
165
49
231
80
84
43
43
16
49
84
9861
13
90
167 65 61
270
71
59
80
71
171
26
14
7
165
79
45E
Nat
chez
Trac
ePk
wy
Natch
ez T
race
Pkw
y
PkwyBluegrass
kwy
tucky P
WKen
(toll)
321
65
87
4
10 11
9
THE CAROLINAS, GEORGIA & THE SOUTH TRIPSA Taste of the South p37Antebellum South p45Tracing Martin Luther King, Jr p53Music City to Dixieland: A Musical Roots Run p61The Big Muddy: Down the Mississippi p69NASCAR’s Best Pit Stops p77Southern Gothic Literary Tour p83Southeastern Beach Getaways p91The Great Smokies p97Appalachian Trail p105Historic Battles of the Civil War p113
0
0 150 km
90 mi
lir
T
n
hala
pp
A
c
ai
a
li a r
na
T
hcala
A
pp
i
BayChesapeake
SoundAlbemarle
SoundPamlico
A T L A N T I CO C E A N
Maryland
Virginia
Ohio
WestVirginia
Kentucky
CarolinaNorth
SouthCarolina
Florida
Georgia
Baltimore
ANNAPOLIS
DCWASHINGTON,
RICHMOND
Corolla
Kitty Hawk
City
Edenton
Norfolk
Elizabeth
DurhamGreensboro
CHARLESTONAshland
BooneBlowing Rock
Pikeville
Greeneville
Cincinnati
Slade
Lexington
Maysville
FRANKFORT
Berea
Corbin
OcracokeVillage
CedarIsland
Beaufort
RALEIGHHill
CalabashMyrtle Beach
Georgetown
Florence
New Bern
Wilmington
AshevilleDillsboro
RockChimney
Greer
Milledgeville
Augusta
Cherokee
Knoxville
Townsend
Helen
NantahalaBryson City
ATLANTA
Macon
Dahlonega
ForgePigeon
Mountain City
Athens
Brunswick
Vidalia
Waycross
Jacksonville
Fargo
Albany
TALLAHASSEE
Orlando
Tampa
Mooresville
Salem
Charlotte
Charleston
COLUMBIA
Savannah
Beaufort
CreswellChapelWinston-
MonumentNationalOcmulgee
National ForestDaniel Boone
NationalCumberland Gap
Historic Park
State ParkGorgeTallulah
Great Smoky MountainsNational Park
Park
AmicalolaFalls State
TopsailIsland
GreatDismalSwamp
OuterBanks
CapeLookout
Cape Fear
SwampOkefenokee
River
Savannah
(6684 ft)(5964 ft)MountainGrandfatherMt Mitchell
8
15
1819
1312
16
24
2321
317
32
6
17
2014
25
9
2927263
10 28
2
30
95
64
4
64
8585
95
77
81
64
75
75
40
7740
385
95
20
26
85
85
95
16
95
10
75
1713
23
11W
62
80
25E52
1770
501
152
76
52
17
501
7674
301
78
25
441
64
19
19
82
441
301
49
19
19
27
98
180
6413
wy
Blue
ge
Rid
PkwyMountainCombs
Pk
(toll)
(toll)
2927
32
18
44
54
64
15
33
19
39
6340
233036
4246
5049
6052
48
12
2416
2531
34
37
5355
59
20
4357
26
61
62
13
14
2117
28
38
35
45
5658
5147
41
65
22
BBQ Odyssey p213
& Soul Food p227
Outer Banks p139
High Country p157
Backroads p231
Blue Ridge Parkway:
Driving the Natchez
Georgia & Alabama
Kentucky Bluegrass &The Blues Highway p269Trace Parkway p263
Horse Country p387
Pirates of the
Pulled Pork & Butt Rubs:Eating in Memphis p341The Bourbon Trail p391
New Orleans Perfect Po’boyQuest p289
Atlanta for Food Lovers p203Hogs & Heifers: A Georgia
Savannah’s Seafood
Mayberry & the Yapa Valley p153
Forests p247
University Tour of theTriangle p129
Dawson’s Creek p133From Dirty Dancing to
Piedmont Traditions p149A Charleston Walk Back in Time p167Ashley River Plantations p173
The Shoals: Along the
Talladega & Cheaha National
South Carolina Swamps p177
Gator Watching in Gulf Coast Volunteering p279
South Louisiana p299
Paddling the Buffalo p315Exploring the Ozarks p319Hwy 7 & Little Rock p327Outdoor Chattanooga p373
Midnight in the Garden:
Myrtle Beach & the
in the Triangle p121
Grand Strand p181South Carolina Upcountry p187
Eccentric Savannah p233
Only In Alabama p237
Eclectic Americana
Tennessee River p251
Coon Dogs & Unclaimed Baggage:
Brunswick & the Golden Isles p217
Cape Fear & the Carolina Coast p145
Best State Park Picks p309
Thanks Hank: HankWilliams’ Alabama p243
Oxford, Mississippi p275Old Mobile, Alabama p255
Voodoo Tour of New Orleans p295Cajun Country Road Trip p303Hot Springs National Park p323Memphis Music Tour p351Country Music Capital: Nashville p363My Old Kentucky Home p397
Going to Graceland:Touring the Shrine of Elvis p347Tennessee Oddities p369Mammoth Cave p377
48 Hours in Asheville p16348 Hours in Atlanta p19748 Hours in New Orleans p28348 Hours in Nashville p35748 Hours in Louisville p381
The Billgrimage p331Athens Rocks p209
THE CAROLINAS, GEORGIA & THE SOUTHWhether you have lived in the heart of Dixie your entire life, have recently relocated or are just visiting, you might think you know the South. Forget, for a moment, the stereotypes and infamous history, as we want to show you just why we love the South.
You’re not imagining it; people here really are friendlier, and tradition takes on a new meaning below the Mason Dixon line. History permeates the South like one of Scarlett O’Hara’s lingering sighs in an empty ballroom. Almost every American-born music style originated here, from bluegrass to funk, and rock and roll to soul.
And yes, so did slavery. And the Civil War. And the Civil Rights movement. And the work of Dr Martin Luther King, Jr. We’ll show you all of it as we weave through 65 trips in nine states.
It’s the natural beauty – the off-the-beaten-track treks – that provides some of the best road trip des-tinations. Rock out to zydeco after a day canoeingpast swamp gators. Sip ice tea on a breezy veranda in Kentucky’s Bluegrass Country. Kayak along Georgia’s relatively undiscovered Golden Isles. There’s an experience here for every mood.
And if you’re not yet convinced a Southern road trip is for you, we have one word for you: barbecue.
THE GREAT SMOKIES p97Mountain Farm Museum, Great Smoky Mountains National Park, Tennessee
© Lonely Planet Publications
44
32
ALEX LEVITON After getting a master’s degree in journalism from UC Berkeley in 2002, Alex bought a tobacco ware-house loft in downtown Durham and has split her time between North Carolina and San Francisco ever since. She loves both places, but has a special fondness in her heart for the porches, fireflies and pace of life in North Carolina.
EMILY MATCHAREmily was raised in the Tar Heel State and can still sometimes be found around Chapel Hill. She coauthored Lonely Planet’s USA guide, and writes on food and travel for magazines and newspapers. Her favorite trip was Pulled Pork & Butt Rubs: Eating in Memphis. She can be seen here at Sun Studio in Memphis, where Elvis, Johnny Cash and Roy Orbison were discovered.
The Authors© Lonely Planet Publications
33
THE AUTHORS
KEVIN RAUB Kevin grew up in Atlanta and attended the University of Geor-gia in Athens. He has previously worked on Lonely Planet guides to Mexico, Brazil and Chile. For this book, Kevin drove through Georgia and Alabama, stopping off here for a picture at Little St Simons Island, the jewel of the Golden Isles.
ADAM SKOLNICKAdam covers travel, culture and health for Lonely Planet and sev-eral magazines. His Mississippi, Louisiana and Arkansas odyssey was one extended overdose of live music, lush landscapes and insanely good regional food. He has authored and coauthored six Lonely Planet guidebooks. Read more of his work at www.adamskolnick.com.
LONELY PLANET AUTHORSWhy is our travel information the best in the world? It’s simple: our authors are independent, dedicated travelers. They don’t research using just the internet or phone, and they don’t take freebies, so you can rely on their advice being well researched and impartial. They travel widely, to all the popular spots and off the beaten track. They personally visit thousands of hotels, restaurants, cafés, bars, galleries, palaces, museums and more – and they take pride in getting all the details right, and telling it how it is. Think you can do it? Find out how at lonelyplanet.com.
34
THE AUTHORS
CONTRIBUTING EXPERTSJohn T Edge is the author of a number of books, including a four-book series on iconic American eats. He most recently released a revised edi-tion of Southern Belly: The Ultimate Food Lover’s Companion to the South. John contributes to the Hogs & Heifers: A Georgia BBQ Odyssey trip.
Philip Grymes is the director of Outdoor Chat-tanooga, a city agency dedicated to promoting the outdoor lifestyle. He is a Wilderness First Responder and an avid hiker, kayaker and rock climber. Philip shares some of his favorite spots in the Outdoor Chattanooga trip.
Dixie Hibbs is the former mayor of Bardstown, Kentucky, the “Bourbon Capital of the World.” She has written several books on local history and culture, including Bardstown: Hospitality, History and Bourbon. She shares her insider knowledge in The Bourbon Trail trip.
Robert Lee Hodge has been engaging in Civil War reenactments for three decades as a self-proclaimed “hardcore” reenactor, and was the subject of Tony Horwitz’s Confederates in the Attic. Robert lends his expertise to the Historic Battles of the Civil War trip.
Jordan Johnson, JD, spokesman for the Clin-ton Foundation and director of public policy at Cranford Johnson Robinson Woods, was born and raised in Arkansas. He spends his downtime with his family hiking, paddling and fly-fishing. Jordan contributed to The Billgrimage trip.
Victoria Logue first hiked the Appalachian Trail in 1988 and has since written several books on
hiking the trail. Victoria assisted on the Appala-chian Trail trip.
Mike Mills is a world-class paddler and the long-est tenured outfitter on the Buffalo. In the 1980s he served as Arkansas’ Minister of Tourism under then Governor Clinton. In the off-season you’ll find him flying his Cessna or hot-air balloon. Mike contributed to the Paddling the Buffalo trip.
Connie Nelson is the coauthor of The Film Junkie’s Guide to North Carolina. She lives in Wilmington, North Carolina. Connie offers an insider’s insight in the From Dirty Dancing to Dawson’s Creek trip.
Scott Peacock, chef and Southern food expert, is the executive chef at Watershed in Atlanta. In 2007 he won a James Beard Award, and is coauthor of The Gift of Southern Cooking: Recipes and Revelations from Two Southern Chefs, with the late Edna Lewis. Scott shares his foodie insights in the Atlanta for Food Lovers trip.
Simona Rabinovitch writes about pop culture, travel and entertainment for Canada’s national newspaper the Globe and Mail and international magazines including Zink, Nylon and SPIN.com. Simona’s interview with Terrance Simien appears in the Cajun Country Road Trip.
Jack Thomson runs a Civil War walking tour of Charleston and has published a photography book entitled Charleston at War. To take one of his tours, go to www.civilwarwalk.com. We joined Jack for a walk in A Charleston Walk Back in Time.
© Lonely Planet Publications
© Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digit-ally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial pur-poses only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’