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The PrinT Paradox

Channel-Surfing wiTh The

home ShoPPing neTworkS

iConS in The making

aleSSio roSSi, Global Chief Digital Officer, Shiseido

The CliCk Clique BeauTy’S moST

Plugged-in exeCS

The Business of Beauty

an iSSue Of

COVER.indd 1 2/8/17 6:15 PM

The CliCk

Clique

emily weiSS, founder and CeO, into the Gloss and Glossier

BeauTy’S moST

Plugged-in exeCS

The PrinT Paradox

Channel-Surfing wiTh The home ShoPPing neTworkS

iConS in The making


an iSSue Of



an iSSue Of

The CliCk

Clique

Claudia Soare and anaSTaSia Soare, President and founder, anastasia Beverly Hills

BeauTy’S moST

Plugged-in exeCS

The PrinT Paradox

Channel-Surfing wiTh The home ShoPPing neTworkS

iConS in The making


guive BalooCh, Global Vice President, L’Oréal Technology incubator

The CliCk Clique BeauTy’S moST

Plugged-in exeCS

The PrinT Paradox

Channel-Surfing wiTh The

home ShoPPing neTworkS

iConS in The making


an iSSue Of


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AD: Nick BullockCW: NoneCD: Martha BrooksAP: --PP: Mary Angiuli

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AD: Nick BullockCW: NoneCD: Martha BrooksAP: --PP: Mary Angiuli

Ad #: M16SK019CHeadline: Discover liquid careVisual: ModelSpace/Color: CMYKPublication: C size

Bleed: 20.25” x 12.25”Trim: 20” x 12”Live: 19.25” x 11.25”Gutter: .125

Document Name: CNY_M16SK019C_01.inddDocument Path: CPNY:ME Production:Loreal:Loreal_Production:SK:Magazine:M16SK019_Hydra Genius:CNY_M16SK019C_01.inddFont Family: Trade Gothic (Bold Condensed No. 20; Type 1; OK), Gotham (Medium, Light, Bold, Black, Book; Type 1; OK)Ink Name: CMYKLink Name: CNY_mborges_hydra_genius_swv8.tif (CMYK; 372 ppi; Up to Date; 80.57%), CNY_hydra_sensitive_pack_v6.tif (CMYK; 748 ppi, -749 ppi; Up to Date; 40.1%, -40.1%), LOP_SkinExpert_2016_K.eps (Up to Date; 74.88%), HG_SkindrinkIcon.ai (Up to Date; 114.34%)

Project #: PR06194_NYC-CWWRetouch #: NoneClient: L’OREAL COS (0030005503)Division: L’OREAL USAProduct: HYDRA GENIUSJob #: 10680113-1252-F0Print/Export Time: 1-30-2017 6:03 PMPrint Scale: 100%User Name: Congo, Joe (NYC-CWW)Proof #: 1PM: Teresa TarquiniInDesign Version: CC 2015

S:19.25”S:11.25”

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3600 SCIENTISTS, 6 RESEARCH CENTERS WORLDWIDE.

DEDICATED TO BEAUTIFUL SKIN AT EVERY AGE.

LOREALSKINEXPERT.COM ©2017 L’Oréal USA, Inc.

[ ALOE VERA ]

DISCOVER LIQUID CARE. LIGHTWEIGHT, LONG-LASTING.

[ FRESH-FACED, GLOWING SKIN. 72HR HYDRATION ]

NEW

HYDRAGENIUS LIQUID CARE

BECAUSE YOU’RE WORTH IT.TM

GET YOUR FREE SAMPLE: HYDRAGENIUS.COM/SAMPLE#HYDRAGENIUS

CLINICAL RESULT 72HRS OF INTENSE AND CONTINUOUS HYDRATION.

TECHNOLOGY NOURISHING ALOE WATER AND WATER-ATTRACTING HYALURONIC ACID.

FORMULAS 3 FORMULAS, ONE FOR EACH SKIN TYPE: OILY, DRY AND EXTRA-DRY.

HOW IT WORKS LIGHTWEIGHT LIQUID MOISTURIZER PENETRATES INSTANTLY.

4 wwd beauty inc

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Beauty Bulletin IN THIS ISSUE

"The way we consume

media is noT abouT one

piece of The puzzle or

The oTher, buT how

They all fiT TogeTher.” Jane Hertzmark Hudis,

the estée Lauder cos.

8 Pete UnPlUggedPete born assesses what makes a leader today.

10 ShaPe ShifterScurly hair is having a moment thanks to a wide range of launches targeting textured hair.

12 the aPaC exPreSS Revlon’s ceo Fabian Garcia reveals his growth plans for asia in an uncertain political climate.

14 WeSt CoaSt WatChthe latest beauty happenings from the industry’s hotbed of innovation.

16 the neW iConSbeauty’s next-gen hero products.

34 fragranCe in foCUSan in-depth look at the fragrance category and what’s driving growth.

Departments

19 BeaUty’S digital PoWer PoSSeWWD Beauty Inc’s list of the most forward- thinking tech visionaries reveal where they think the industry’s next big innovation lies.

24 WatCh thiS WayFrom the small screen to the smallest: How home shopping channels are reinventing themselves to appeal to social media-minded, mobile Millennials.

28 PiCking UP the PieCeSas digital dominates the omniplatform information age, media companies are grappling with how to wring profits out of a platform they don’t own.

Features

WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. COPYRIGHT ©2016 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 211, NO. 38. Friday, February 17, 2017. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published weekly, except for the fifth week in August, the second week in September, and the third and fourth weeks in December, with one additional issue in February, April, June, August, October and December, by Fairchild Media LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 475 Fifth Ave., New York, NY 10017. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offices. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich - Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMAS-TER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at [email protected]. Please include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Office alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfied with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WWD, 475 Fifth Ave, 2nd Floor, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and editorial requests, e-mail [email protected]. Visit us online at www.wwd.com or to subscribe to other Fairchild Publishing LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WWD IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDER-ATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WWD IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS , PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE.

On the Cover: alessio Rossi of Shiseido; claudia and anastasia Soare of anastasia beverly Hills; emily Weiss of Glossier, and Guive balooch of L’Oréal.

Making sense of the ever-more

fragmented publishing industry.

The must-haves that rack up millions.

TOC.indd 1 2/8/17 6:13 PM

67014_LWP_F1_WWDBeautyInc-February17.indd 1 1/31/17 2:56 PM

6 wwd beauty inc

Beauty BulletineDitOR'S letteR

In these data-driven times, I decided to take a look at some recent figures

that demonstrate the ongoing and dramatic transformation the beauty indus-

try—and, in fact, the world overall—is experiencing.

Data point one is the number 45. That’s how many days—from ideation to

launch—the makeup brand Winky Lux has reduced the product cycle to.

Data point two is $404.5 million, which is the amount of advertising revenue

that Snap Inc., parent company of Snapchat, recorded in 2016, according to the

prospectus it filed in early February in advance of its initial public offering on the New

York Stock Exchange. That figure represented a seven-fold increase from the company’s

2015 revenues of $58.6 million—in one year.

If those numbers make your eyes pop, consider this: They represent the new normal.

“What we think is never going to stop is the acceleration of the adoption of technology

and what we see today is the slowest pace of change ever,” said Alessio Rossi, Shiseido’s

global chief digital officer, at the WWD Digital Beauty Forum earlier this month. He

noted that the pace of external change exceeds the internal capacity of most organiza-

tions to absorb and adapt it, which will present a huge challenge for many companies.

At Shiseido, Rossi has created the Shiseido+ Digital Academy for employees to teach

them how to do just that. He is one of four cover subjects this month, each innovating

how the beauty industry harnesses the power of technology to drive business. There’s

Emily Weiss, the young entrepreneur who has pioneered the combination of content,

commerce and products with her two companies, Into the Gloss and Glossier; Guive

Balooch, the global vice president of L’Oréal’s technology incubator whose launches like

L’Oréal Paris’ Makeup Genuis have resonated far beyond his company, and Anastasia

and Claudia Soare, the mother/daughter founder and president, respectively, of Anasta-

sia Beverly Hills, the most successful social media-fueled makeup brand of the moment.

They are part of a larger group we’ve dubbed Beauty’s Digital Power Posse, who are lead-

ing the way from content to commerce, software to hard numbers, apps to ops. For the

full list, turn to page 19.

Elsewhere in this issue, we examine the changes digital has wrought in the home

shopping business and in the media industry, where the biggest names in the business

are grappling with what a viable business model looks like in the new information eco-

system. As Jane Hertzmark Hudis of the Estée Lauder. Cos., told me in “Picking Up the

Pieces” on page 28, “We are in a state of change and dramatic transformation across the

board in every business.” Here at WWD Beauty Inc, we’re no exception, which is why we

will continue our mission of making sure that our readers are at the forefront of what’s

happening next in the beauty industry.

Editor

Jenny B. Fine @jennybefine

Speed chaSerS

MILES SOCHA editor in chief, WWd

PEtE BOrn executive editor, beautyJEnny B. FInE editor JEnnIFEr wEIL european editor ALLISOn COLLInS beauty, finance FAyE BrOOkMAn contributing editor rACHEL BrOwn beauty editor, West coast rACHEL StrUGAtZ beauty, prestige ELLEn tHOMAS beauty, mass market LAyLA ILCHI editorial assistant

COntrIBUtOrSSAMAntHA COntI (london), MILES SOCHA (paris), LUCIE JAnIk (milan), MArCy MEdInA (los angeles), AMAndA kAISEr (hong kong)

COPydESkMAUrEEn MOrrISOn-SHULAS copy chiefdAnIELLE GILLIArd, MAxInE wALLy copy editors

Art dEPArtMEntOLIVEr yOO art directornICk MrOZOwSkI creative director

PHOtOASH BArHAMAnd photo directorJEnnA GrEEnE deputy photo directorOOnA wALLy bookings and production editorkAtrInA BrOwn photo editor EMILy tAyLOr photo studio coordinatorJILLIAn SOLLAZZO assistant photo editorGEOrGE CHInSEE, tHOMAS IAnnACCOnE photographers

BEAUty InC AdVErtISInGPAUL JOwdy senior vice president, group publisherPAMELA FIrEStOnE associate publisherrACHAEL dESAntIS beauty directorJILL BIrEn West coast directorMArJOrIE tHOMAS european sales representative OLGA kOUZnEtSOVA account director, italyEMAnUELA ALtIMAnI senior sales coordinator, italyPASCALE rAJAC advertising assistant, francetrISH rOBBInS senior client services managerrACHAEL dESAntIS client services manager

dIGItAL/MArkEtInG/CrEAtIVE SErVICES StEPHAnIE SIEGEL director of integrated marketingCASS SPEnCEr creative director, marketing SUZEttE MInEttI digital strategist

AUdIEnCE MArkEtInGELLEn FAIrBAnkS dEALy vice presidentPEGGy PyLE consumer marketing directorJAnEt MEnAkEr senior director, digital marketing & strategic developmentSEAn MCdErMOtt senior director, planning and operationsrAndI SEGAL senior director, institutional salesSUZAnnE BErArdI senior online managertAMrA FEBESH senior marketing managerLAUrEn BUSCH associate marketing manager

PrOdUCtIOnkEVIn HUrLEy production directorJOHn CrOSS production manager

PrEPrESS PrOdUCtIOnALEx SHArFMAn digital imagingdAVId LEE CHIn assembly

SUMMItS & EVEntSAMBEr MUndInGEr vice president, neW ventures & gm MAry Ann BACHEr executive editorial director kIM MAnCUSO director, attendee sales ALExIS COyLE sponsorship director AMELIA EwErt director of experiential marketing

FAIrCHILd PUBLISHInG LLCMICHAEL AtMOrE editorial director, footWear neWs & director of brand development rOn wILSOn director of european operations

JAy PEnSkE chairman & ceo

GErry ByrnE vice chairman GEOrGE GrOBAr chief operating officer CrAIG PErrEAULt senior vice president, business development tOdd GrEEnE general counsel & svp human resourcesnELSOn AndErSOn vice president, creative kEn dELACAZAr vice president, finance tArIk wESt vice president, human resourcesGABrIEL kOEn vice president, engineeringCHrIStInA yEOH vice president, technical operationsJUdItH r. MArGOLIn deputy general counselLAUrEn GULLIOn director of communicationsJOnI AntOnACCI senior director of operations yOUnG kO controller dErEk rAMSEy senior program managerEddIE kO director, advertising operationsAndy LIMPUS director of talent acQuisitionMAtt wILLIAMSOn, rICk GASCOn directors of it operations & productionCArL FOnEr senior it analystdOn GErBEr, ryAn rAMOS it analysts

fairchild Publishing llc is a division of Penske media corPoration

ED LETTER.indd 1 2/8/17 3:46 PM

AVA I L A B L E AT D I O R .C O M

# I A M P O I S O N T H E N E W F R A G R A N C E

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425454-01_Dior-Poison_BeautyInc_Feb2017_P4CB.indd 1 2/2/17 4:53 PM

Pete UnPlUgged

scouting for prospects

social media have delivered a one-two knockout

punch to the old department store order. But new

skills are also demanded in a time when specialty

chains, like Sephora and Ulta Beauty, are winning

the Millennial, not only the customer of the future

but of today. Then there’s the revolution fomented

by Indie brands that is remaking the topography of

the industry.

Sydney Finkelstein, Steven Roth Professor of

Management and faculty director of the Tuck Execu-

tive Program at the Tuck School of Business at Dart-

mouth College, suggests in such a period of change

and turmoil, the industry should look outside itself

for new blood.

“Maybe you need to look to a different industry,

which is used to this type of wide-open competi-

tion, constant change, the necessity of adapting and

adjusting in real time, ” he says, suggesting someone

from Silicon Valley. “Potentially you would get a real

change agent.” His other idea is to snatch someone

who is waiting for a shot at the top job at Sephora

or Ulta and recruit them to run a manufacturing

company. “They would have been someone who

had a seat at the table in the development of one

of the strongest—if not strongest—new players in

cosmetics,” he says.

Finkelstein adds that one criteria stands out. In

a world where no board of directors or search com-

mittee can predict the future, there is no way of

knowing what kinds of issues will have to be dealt

with and the skills and temperament required,

beyond those now evident. An important strength

“is the ability to face up to the reality of a situation

in real time and adapt and adjust. I call those things

intellectual honesty, which is recognizing the way

the world really is—at the same time having the

courage and maybe the DNA to make changes in

almost real time.”

Over the years, when aspiring young executives

mentioned who they would like to work with, one

name often came up—Leonard A. Lauder, chairman

emeritus of Estée Lauder Cos. Inc. Lauder says he

has noticed a change in attitude on the part of job

seekers. “The people who rose to leadership in the

Seventies, Eighties and Nineties, up until today,

were, as we call them, ‘lifers,’ people who would

spend their life at one company and build their

skills doing a diversity of tasks within that com-

pany,” he says. “By the time they arrived at the top,

they were well-grounded in almost every facet of the

business. Today’s young executives, who are equally

talented and equally bright, consider the word ‘lifer’

being a life sentence, not a lifetime opportunity. I’ve

never been so amazed at the speed at which people

will resign and move on to the next job, and then

move on again and yet again. So the larger question

is—are they better for it or worse?

“For myself, I love the fact that I have done a deep

dive into everything with one company and feel that

my experience in the cosmetics industry has been

invaluable.” ■

"you have to think like a retailer...

because your universe is shrinking."

Les Berglass, Berglass + Associates

the beauty business

is headed for a managerial

sea change as the Boomers,

who have led for a genera-

tion, start to retire or step

down from the power posts

that capped their careers—

so they can get on with their lives. The trend has

already started with industry icons such as Lynne

Greene, Karen Fondu and Camille McDonald.

It raises questions, such as where the next breed

of c-suite occupants will come from and what

skill sets will be needed to navigate the choppy,

uncharted waters of the future. “Don’t hire a leader

unless they are an Amazon Prime customer,” Les

Berglass, chief executive officer and founder of Ber-

glass + Associates, jokes, making a point that the

next generation of corporate chiefs are going to have

to be what he calls “modern thinkers.”

In the heyday of department stores, business was

constantly expanding. But now the reverse is true.

“Now you have the digital environment responsible

for 20 percent of the takeaway.” He adds, “The inter-

net is there and you have to think like a retailer,

not like a wholesaler (i.e. a beauty manufacturer),

because your universe is shrinking.”

Berglass advises manufacturers to look for tal-

ent with experience and skills gained at vertical

retailers rather than department stores. As the

business shrinks, manufacturers will be opening

stores for their own brands. “You need leaders who

understand specialty retailing,” he says, pointing to

Edgar Huber, now of Coty, and Mindy Grossman of

the Home Shopping Network. Huber, a L’Oréal vet-

eran, ran Kiehl’s for a spell, then switched to Juicy

Couture and Lands’ End, a vertical retailer, before

coming to Coty. Grossman had been in apparel, then

Nike, before transforming HSN.

“What vertical retailers do differently from

department stores—because they are mostly apparel

retailers—is that they demand newness at every

level that wholesalers are not capable of doing,” Ber-

glass says. “The demand for innovation in specialty

retail is extraordinary because apparel depends

upon newness for excitement. The cosmetics indus-

try depends on advertising and promotion.”

On the most basic level, job candidates need

to have a knack for team building because that

is how battles are won now. “They may have bril-

liant merchandising ideas, they may have brilliant

marketing ideas, but can they hire, manage and

motivate a team as the company builds,” says René

Plessner, president of René Plessner Associates. He

cites Rodan + Field’s success at building itself into

a direct-selling company. “Vision has not gone out

of style.”

Plessner acknowledges that future leaders are

going to have to be fluent in digital speak, or at

least hire people who are knowledgeable. But the

depth of change is much deeper. E-commerce and

As a new generation of leadership comes to the fore, WWD’s executive editor of beauty, Pete Born, assesses

the skills needed to guide the industry into tomorrow.

PeteUnplugged.indd 1 2/8/17 3:58 PM

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Beauty BulletinRevlon’s Fabian GaRcia Talks GRowTh / whaT’s cool in cali / heRo (PRoducT) woRshiP

10 wwd beauty inc

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mask forceNatural ingredients feature prominently in the newest deep treatments.

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1. Kristin Ess HydratingCurl defining Crème, $10 this celebrity stylist’s namesake line launched at target and includes a curl-defining cream that strengthens hair so curls hold their shape.

2. Virtue Labs Correct The Polish Unfrizz Cream, $40 While this cream is meant to tackle frizz, keratin infused in the formula also helps reverse damage.

3. OGX Quenching+ Coconut Curls Frizz-defying Moisture Mousse, $7.99 coconut oil, honey and citrus oil soften the hair and tame frizz.

4. L’Oréal ParisEverSleek Frizz Finish Serum, $9.99 a blend of argan and flower oils protects against humidity.

shape enhancersLess is more with these base coat products packed with nourishing and replenishing ingredients.

1. René Furterer SublimeCurl Curl Nutri- Activating Cream, $28 evening primrose oil and acanthus extract create a lightweight texture formulated to promote curl retention.

2. IGK Sold Out CurlPriming Basecoat, $27 this employs sweet almond oil and sea kelp to nourish the hair.

3. R+Co Twister CurlPrimer, $25 aloe leaf extract, pequi fruit oil and shea butter retain moisture and create a light base that helps hold curls.

4. devaCurl Buildup BusterMicellar water Cleansing Serum, $28 Micellar water makes its way into hair care with this serum, which gently cleans hair.

shape shiftersBye-bye, blowouts. If the spring runways were any indication, curls reign supreme as the go-to style for the

young and the beautiful. Here, the latest launches for textured tresses. By layla ilchi

shelF liFe

wwd Beauty inc 11

BB_OpenerCurls.indd 2 2/8/17 5:10 PM

Beauty Bulletin

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12 wwd beauty inc

The APAC exPressChief executive officer Fabian Garcia reveals how he plans to accelerate Revlon’s business in Asia. by ALLISON COLLINS

MASTER CLASS

Fabian Garcia has decades of beauty

experience in the Asian market—an

expertise he’s planning to leverage as

chief executive officer of Revlon Inc. Cur-

rently, about 12 percent of the company’s

sales are in the Asia-Pacific region, with most of

that revenue coming from Australia. The expansion

plan comes as Garcia works to merge the culture of

newly acquired Elizabeth Arden with that of Rev-

lon. To pick up steam in Asia, Garcia is planning

on translating the models of a few successes—like

John Varvatos in Korea and Revlon in Japan—into

different markets, an undertaking he’s embarking

on in turbulent political times.

What is your personal style for growing business?

My style is to listen and learn. To begin, I connect

directly with the people who are closer to consum-

ers and customers. The so-called frontliners tend to

have a more thorough and real-time understanding

of consumer insights, trends and the strength and

vitality of our brands. I then expand my audience to

key members of the executive team, two levels down

and our board members. Once I have listened to

key stakeholders, I work with my team to outline a

vision and set of strategic goals to guide our growth.

What are the differences between the corpo-rate cultures of arden and revlon, and how will you fuse them?

I have described the Arden culture as very col-

laborative and the Revlon culture as very competi-

tive. Both are critical traits that we would like to

preserve and build upon. Our objective is to create

a new culture that harnesses teamwork and a pas-

sion for innovation, creativity and a contemporary

celebration of the heritage of our iconic brands.

are different strategies required for build-ing brands in asia compared with the rest of the world?

Photograph by SaSha MaSlov

Fabian Garcia in Revlon’s downtown offices.

BB_MasterClass.indd 1 2/8/17 5:49 PM

Asia is comprised of very different markets,

with consumers who are very demanding in every

country, and surrounded by competitors, both

global and local, who deliver their best innovation

and execution to win these consumers’ hearts and

minds, day after day.

how do the company’s brands play differ-ently in different countries?

There is a different commercial approach in dif-

ferent markets. Some of it is legacy and some of it

is size of opportunity. Arden today works with a dis-

tributor for Southeast Asia, Luxe Asia. [Revlon] has

our own network of distributors in Southeast Asia.

In the future we will have a more unified approach.

We have a terrific business in Japan with Revlon

that is growing double-digits. Our management

there is very strategic—they are building brand

franchises. They’re building Super Lustrous, they’re

building ColorStay, they’re dedicating resources to

build the franchises that made us famous in other

places. In some countries, 80, 90 percent of the

resources are on the new products only, as opposed

to putting more money into those core franchises,

and that is now a model we want to replicate. The

idea is with that model in mind, let’s go to Korea,

to Taiwan, and see if we can build equal success.

On the Arden side, I’ll give you the example of

John Varvatos. The brand does not have a store in

South Korea, but a very ingenious distributor went

online exclusively to create the brand, mirroring

its image here. John Varvatos is the No. 3 brand

in the male segment in Korea, and it has been No.

1 a couple of times, and it’s all done online. So, a

simple question is why can we not do that in other

markets in Asia? Forty percent of consumers buy

things online in Asia.

With ongoing talk of the chinese slowdown, how do you feel about business there?

I smile at that because a slowdown from the 15

percent of 10 years ago to the 9 percent of a couple

years ago was tragic, end of the world. Now we’re

looking at 6.5 percent—oh my gosh, where are we

heading? I think China represents a wonderful

opportunity. For a company like ours, which has

a very small business in Asia in general, it’s an

untapped growth opportunity, not withstanding

the current GDP state of affairs.

how have things changed since revlon retreated from china in 2014?

The biggest change is the opportunity repre-

sented by online purchases. We withdrew from

China because we couldn’t make money with the

counter-based model we went in with. Today, the

model to make money is a combination of brick-

and-mortar and online. And playing the online

game with fluency, because playing in Taobao is not

as simple as selling on Amazon. Seventy percent of

our current business in China is online. What we

need to do now is build on that and design a busi-

ness model that combines brick and mortar pres-

ence with online sales.

We experimented with Revlon online at the end

of last quarter. The idea was ‘let’s get a calibration

of the brand equity in a world where we have low

awareness and where there’s so much competition

international and local.’ Does the Revlon brand

resonate online without any big investment in mar-

keting to raise that awareness? We got very good

feedback….I think we need to present the brand at

a higher level of premium-ness than what we pre-

sented this time.

What is arden’s distribution in china?We have been distributed in department stores,

not all of which are what I would call A-type stores,

and that distribution is being optimized. Now we’re

in 56 of those doors, and opening more and more of

the doors we want. We want to show other depart-

ment stores in China that when you give us the

right space and allow us to execute the premium

image of Elizabeth Arden, we can create the kind

of velocity and the kind of equity that this brand

deserves.

is President Trump’s stance on trade causing difficulties for doing business in asia?

There is a lot of noise. Now are we going from

noise to action, and what are those actions going to

be? From our vantage point, being small is beautiful

because we’re not going to be on the radar screen of

the top industries they’re going to go after. We have

opportunities in Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong

and, of course, the big ticket item here is China—

but hopefully the situation isn’t going to be as dire

as some may think. ■

" The arden culTure is very collabora-

Tive and revlon is compeTiTive. both are critical traits."

Fabian Garcia, Revlon

ColorStay has been a strong

franchise in Japan.

BB_MasterClass.indd 2 2/8/17 5:50 PM

RESERVE YOUR TICKETS AT CEW.org

05.12.17 New York

Beauty Insider Awards LuncheonRecognizing the most innovative products of the year

03.08.17 New York

Beauty Insider AwardsProduct Demo

Your discovery destination

Gain insights and access at these must-attend events:

03.21.17Beauty Insider SeriesDiscovering Indie BeautyFeaturing Nordstrom, GLOSSYBOX, The Detox Market

03.30.17 New York

Newsmaker ForumJane LauderGlobal Brand President, Clinique

04.12.17 New York

Beauty’s Top Talent AwardsHonoring leaders who are making their mark in beauty

STAY AHEAD

OF THE

BEAUTY CURVE

Downtown Los Angeles

Beauty Bulletin

VIRAL VOCAB

Stylehaul’S guide to the beauty buzzwordS on

everyone’S lipS:

WEST COAST WATCHRachel Brown rounds up the latest beauty news from the Golden State.

CALI COOL

SkIn CARe’S RISIng StARSlooking for the next weSt CoaSt-baSed treatment brand to break through? here’S who

hollywood’S famouS faCeS Call when Skin haS to be Selfie ready.

HG Acronym for holy grail that refers to

the ultimate beauty product

SquincHinG

Photo pose where you squinch your eyes

to look more sexy and mysterious

GivinG Life When your makeup

looks so good that it gives your life

new meaning

GLittertearS Sparkly under-eye

makeup that drips down to

resemble tears

MuLtiMaSkinG Wearing several face

masks on different parts of your face at once

Product

PHiLoSoPHy

Star

Product

faMouS

faceS

tHe Buy

Side

Platform l.a. has made Culver City Los Angeles’ hottest new shopping

destination with stores including Tom Dixon’s U.S. flagship, cool girl sunglass

brand Linda Farrow and an outpost of New York restaurant The Cannibal. The

120,000-square-foot space features 20 stores where rents run $6 to $10 per

square foot monthly; the square footage will increase to 200,000 when a new

building opens in 2019. “Everything is unique, one-of-a-kind and specific to this

place rather than the stuff you find everywhere,” says Joseph Miller of Runyon

Group, which developed the site. That extends to beauty and wellness, which

currently includes Aesop, Tenoverten, SoulCycle and Juice Served Here. “There

are great spas and beauty places in L.A., but there is nowhere that has put them

all together in a walkable setting.” 8850 Washington Blvd, Culver City, CA 90232

MALL CuLtuRe ReIMAgIned

14 wwd beauty inc

ANGELA CAGLIAJAMIE SHERRILLSHANI DARDENKRIStINA HoLEy

The yogi of San Francisco’s skin-care world, Holey,

trained in chemistry and cosmetics formulations, takes a holistic approach

to the most stubborn of conditions.

natural products can be effective at tackling acne, aging and other concerns.

barrier restore Serum, $110

Shiva rose, Jenni kayne

ayla beauty, Cap beauty, Credo beauty

don’t leave your tools in a toolbox.

egf Stem Cell Complex, $125

ruby rose, rita ora, the kardashian sisters

neiman marcus, net-a-porter, harrods

retinol, but better.

retinol reform, $95

rosie huntington-whiteley, amanda

Seyfried, Chrissy teigen, Suki waterhouse

shanidarden.com

the best of spa skin care with no nasties.

goat milk Soufflé moisturizer, $65

minnie driver, helena Christensen, louise roe

blushington

Sherrill’s Beauty Park Medical Spa has more advanced equipment

than a biotech lab. She’ll try just about anything to unleash a youthful glow.

Hollywood’s PYTs flock to Darden, perhaps

the coolest aesthetician in town. A former dancer,

she honed her skills at Argyle Salon and Spa and Kinara Skin Care

Clinic before setting out on her own.

Longtime Ole Henriksen facialist Caglia is the skin-care shaman for

busy lives. At her Bel-Air outpost, she aims for

dewy fresh skin without redness or marks in

an hour flat.

barrier restore Serum,

BB_WestCoast.indd 1 2/8/17 6:05 PM

16 wwd beauty inc Bronze bust prop courtesy of The End of History

Beauty Bulletin MODERN ICONS

the new ageDigitally savvy brands and first-to-market formats have dethroned long-standing hero products as beauty’s newest cult classics. By LayLa ILChI

Photograph by Keirnan Monaghan and Theo VaMVounaKis

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wwd BEauTy inc 17

1. Garnier SkinActive Micellar Cleansing water Over three million bottles were sold in 2016.

2. Amorepacific Color Control Cushion Compact Amorepacific sold more than 33 million cushions in 2016.

3. SheaMoisture Coconut & Hibiscus Curl Enhancing Smoothie The top seller for multicultural hair, reported IRI.

4. dior Addict Lip Glow This luxe lip moisturizer sold one every minute in 2016.

5. Pat McGrath Labs Lust 004 in Vermillion Venom Makeup artist McGrath amassed an Instagram following of 1.1 million in under a year.

6. Linda Rodin Olio Lusso Luxury Face Oil Over 91 million drops have been absorbed since its launch in 2007.

7. It Cosmetics Your Skin But Better CC+ SPF 50+ This sold 20,000 units in 15 minutes on its QVC debut.

8. Tatcha Polished Rice Enzyme Powder The powder that kicked off a cleansing craze.

9. Atelier Cologne Orange Sanguine Cologne Absolue Over one million bottles have sold since launch.

10. Glamglow Supermud Clearing Treatment Broke Sephora’s record as the top-selling “Hot Now” product.

11. Kylie Cosmetics Matte Lip Kit in Koko K Sold out within 15 minutes of its launch.

12. Too Faced Better Than Sex Mascara One unit is sold every 19 seconds.

13. Oribe dry Texturizing Spray Every 69 seconds, a bottle is sold.

14. Artís Elite Mirror Oval This brush has sold out five times since its launch.

15. Nest Fragrances Bamboo Classic Candle A number-one seller since 2008.

16. Urban decay Naked Eyeshadow Palette One palette sells every six seconds, totaling over $1 billion in sales.

17. Hourglass Ambient Lighting Powder This lit up the illumination category.

18. Paco Rabanne Invictus Eau de Toilette This sales winner went through 5,500 iterations.

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BB_CultClassic.indd 2 2/8/17 5:57 PM

Emily Weiss

Beauty's DIGItaL

power posse From content to commerce, soFtware

to hard numbers, these are the most plugged-in people in beauty.

By jEnny b. finE Photographs by Maciek Jasik

Claudia and Anastasia Soare

Alessio RossiGuive balooch

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wwd Beauty inc 19

FEAT_PowerPosse.indd 1 2/8/17 4:53 PM

realistic. We are about to introduce a complete overhaul to our engine that will make it literally impossible to distinguish augmented reality from reality, in real-time video.

aLIcIa yoonFounder and Ceo, PeaCh & LiLy

@aliciayoon212, @peachandlily

“Because we’re introducing new skin-care concepts and products that rely so much on education, there’s only so much information that can be digested before it might feel overwhelming or confusing. We try to focus on the right stream and the right sequence of information so concepts can build on each other.”

¬ I envision a fine-tuning of augmented reality, where images are manipulated to try on new makeup looks and even see what skin looks like when it’s more even-toned or firmed up. That means all of these “effects” can be applied to images posted on social media platforms, which means this can impact the way brands manufacture products as they contemplate questions like “does it not only wear well in person, but will it look great when it ‘wears’ in virtual reality?” And significantly, can it provide brands, retailers and makeup artists with so much information on what looks do well, which looks are popular, so we can continue to hone product development based on virtual, augmented reality feedback.

aLessIo rossI ChieF digitaL oFFiCer, ShiSeido grouP

“We remove barriers from ideas to execution, have a risk-tolerant approach (although data-driven) and are including each professional community in this transformation. It’s change management on steroids.”

¬ Artificial intelligence and computer vision will become as ubiquitous and adopted as smartphones did less than 10 years ago. The ability to interact in a more natural way will deepen our reliance on technology and create precise, tailored and emotionally connected experiences. At the same time, “super-touchpoints” will resolve the extreme fragmentation of services that we experience today while making the best of a unified customer data model. In a way, this is already in place in China with WeChat being the platform that connects to everything.

aLIce H. cHanGCeo, PerFeCt CorP.

“We are building a unique augmented reality-enabled beauty journey that takes users from discovery to interactively trying products to buying (online or in store) to sharing and engaging with friends, peers and even brands and retailers.”

¬ There is still a lot to do to bring augmented reality to its full potential. Beauty augmented reality has to look perfectly natural and

anastasIa soareFounder and Ceo, anaStaSia BeverLy hiLLS

@anastasiabeverlyhills

“We are organic and authentic, engaging with our audience and cultivating the influencer. We listen and deliver, we teach and empower.”

¬ Snapchat, Instagram Stories, any live-streaming. We work across multiple platforms and connect with our customers where they are.

Bree JoHnson CoFounder, Frank Beauty

@frank_bod, @willowandblake

“We base a lot of our digital decisions on gut instinct. Data is very useful but it’s human interpretation of data that makes the difference.”

¬ Machine learning is very interesting, specifically the data and insights it can provide.

canDace craIG BuLIsHakChieF Marketing oFFiCer, tarte

@candacebulishak

“We’re all about taking thoughtful risks. Constantly experimenting allows us to test new approaches.”

¬ Artificial intelligence, specifically bots, will continue to grow, enabling beauty brands to build better customer experiences. It will allow consumers to ask us specific questions about products, shade matching, how-tos, etc., while receiving answers in real-time.

The Technological revoluTion

has ushered in an age of unparalleled

experimentation in beauty, with Jetsons-like

innovations (self-printing nailbots anyone?)

fundamentally changing the industry.

Here, WWD Beauty Inc’s list of the digital

gurus who are leading the way, be

it in product development, personalization,

content creation, omnichannel commerce,

social media, apps, ops and everything in

between. While they represent many different

levels of seniority, and work for firms that are

both emerging and established, all have

the entrepreneurial drive to create the future.

We asked each of them to share their approach

to digital and what upcoming technology

has the most potential to significantly impact

beauty. While augmented reality was the

most popular answer, one thing is for sure:

There’s nothing virtual about the impact these

leaders have had on the industry.

From left to right: Alessio Rossi, Alice Chang, Alicia yoon, Anastasia Soare, bree johnson, jane Park, Candace Craig bulishak, Chetna Khemka, Christine Mielke, Claudia Soare, Conor begley, Emily Weiss, Guive balooch, Heather Park, Huda Kattan

Beauty’s DIGItaL power posse

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wwd Beauty inc 21

cHetna kHemkaviCe PreSident, oMniChanneL, eLC onLine, the eStée Lauder CoS.

@ckhemka

“I adhere to the concept of reverse engineering, meaning I typically like to start with the business objective and then identify the right digital enablers (rather than look at the latest technology and try to plug it into our business.”

¬ Technology that enables customization, personalization and experiences will have a tremendous impact. There are several new technologies that exist but are still nascent. For example, artificial intelligence, such as Alexa. Most of us use her for specific tasks such as putting on a song, ordering a car service, etc. As AI gets more advanced, I predict Alexa will make purchase decisions for us. We will tell her that we want a “bright red lipstick” and she will place an order based on all the information she has on our makeup preferences, past purchase history, etc. AI will also play a larger role in e-commerce, where personalized recommendations could be made from simple information provided by

conor BeGLeyCoFounder, triBe dynaMiCS

“At Tribe we do no paid advertising (SEM, social, etc.) but this aligns with our general business philosophies of emphasizing earned media versus paid. Personally, I tend to be a consumer of digital content, not a creator.”

¬ Augmented reality technology, driverless transportation and the commercialization of drones will all impact beauty. None are ready yet, but AR technology (Snapchat filters, etc.) seems to be tailor-fit for the cosmetics industry and driverless trucks/drone delivery could have significant impacts on supply chain management in the future. It makes domestic production, versus Chinese production, a more realistic proposition.

emILy weIssFounder and Ceo, gLoSSier

@emilywweiss

“Everything about Glossier was made for the digital experience, from top to bottom. That’s why we’ve designed our masks with Instagrammable artwork on the lid, so that when you open the package you instantly want to take a photo of the jar.”

their hair and skin and will also have the most personalized products for their needs as a function of that knowledge. IBeacon is shifting the way customers engage with retail by personalizing their experience through proactive communication, while providing the retailer with specific feedback on consumer preferences. This innovation signals the continued growth of personalization and I see the potential for digital beacon technology to expand beyond retail to everything from office space to entertainment as more businesses focus on how better data can optimize experiences.

HeatHer parkexeCutive direCtor, gLoBaL ConSuMer engageMent, originS

@heatherpark

“What I love about working in digital is that despite all the apps, platforms, devices and technology that comes out, the basics elements of human behavior never really change. They are just enhanced and amplified.”

¬ I’m very intrigued to see how virtual reality will affect virtual shopping. Beauty is uniquely positioned to be a great industry for this, provided the quality of the experience is trusted.

the consumer. Payment technology in the retail space will also greatly impact the industry—the concept of checkout will be nonexistent. The store will become more about experiences and services and less about the transaction. We often hear how credit card use increases the likelihood of conversion versus the use of cash. “Transaction-less” payments will further compound this effect when consumers can simply grab and go, while also resulting in a better retail experience.

cHrIstIne mIeLkeFounder and editor in ChieF, teMPtaLia

@temptalia

“As a blogger, my focus remains on the blog and growing its content and reach, so I use my social media channels as extensions of it.”

¬ A brand’s ability to switch to and leverage more agile, shorter product development cycles to better stay on trend and respond to the immediacy of consumer demands is going to alter the way products are announced, released and consumed.

cLauDIa soarePreSident, anaStaSia BeverLy hiLLS

@Norvina

“My approach is to look for what’s new, what’s on brand and what excites me, as it will likely excite our customer in some way.”

¬ The concept of live-streaming could potentially be the next social media platform that impacts retail. Think of it as a “new-wave” QVC.

¬ I’m curious to see the impact virtual and augmented reality will have. I wonder if there’s a scenario in which we can provide even better customer support through an augmented reality channel or a better way to reach people new to Glossier. I’m also thinking about which social media platform is going to surface next. Right now Instagram is very important to me (and to Glossier), but it’s possible that in five years it won’t exist as a platform and will be replaced by something we can’t even begin to think of next.

GuIve BaLoocHgLoBaL viCe PreSident, L’oréaL’S teChnoLogy inCuBator

@guivebalooch

“My approach is rooted in the link between science and industrial design. It’s the intersection between accuracy and design/consumer experience that creates truly innovative beauty tech with the ability to change behavior and enhance performance.”

¬ The maturity of neural networks and AI is going to revolutionize how we customize products and experiences. Neural networks will allow new experiences with services and diagnostics related to individual beauty concerns. The more a consumer interacts with technology, the smarter that technology will become and understand them better. The beauty consumers of the future will have a better understanding of

HuDa kattan Founder, huda Beauty

@Hudabeauty

“There is an urgency to digital—people wanting things instantly, faster, and they see through things that are not authentic. I strive to be genuine in what I do, not take myself too seriously. I’ve always felt there is so much opportunity to empower and connect people through beauty.”

¬ Virtual reality could have a lot of exciting opportunities. The idea of face recognition has not reached its full potential for consumers yet.

Jane park Founder and Ceo, JuLeP

“Whether it is others in the beauty community or my team here, I am motivated by engagement and by women who try things outside their comfort zones. As a technology-forward company, we are constantly experimenting and AB testing new platforms, software and ways to connect directly. We are not afraid to embrace new ideas.”

¬ We will see more and more live-streaming. I host weekly sessions that customers can watch during lunch breaks live and are posted to our accounts later on. The real-time question-and-answer session that watchers can participate and engage in is incredibly energizing.


22 wwd BeAuty Inc

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Janet GurwItcHoPerating Partner, CaStanea

“Being an investor in the beauty space, I try to stay current on all digital avenues, focusing on Snapchat, Instagram and YouTube. My involvement with Dollar Shave Club and Memebox have taught me how to successfully build a brand online.”

¬ Virtual/augmented reality technologies that focus on personalization and customization will allow consumers to envision limitless possibilities.

Jen atkInCeLeBrity hairStyLiSt and Creator, ouai hair Care

@jenatkinhair

“I’m a tech nerd first, creative second.”

¬ Virtual reality has amazing potential to help expand product knowledge and styling education, as you get to experience a room as if you’re in it.

Jess HatzIsCoFounder, Frank Body

@jess_hatzis, @frank_bod

“Personally, there is no rhyme or reason to the way I use digital, other than—a lot. For business, we try to be true to our brand values and not be swayed by trends.”

Laura neLsonFounder and PreSident, Seed Beauty

“We don’t view digital as a strategy. It is part of our DNA. Digital defines us. We listen to our customers across all social media platforms so that we can give them what they want when they want it.”

¬ Continued improvements in facial recognition technology will have a significant impact because it allows consumers to experience and try on makeup digitally, making online cosmetics purchases even more convenient.

maLIk aBu-GHazaLeHviCe PreSident, digitaL Marketing and e-CoMMerCe, LanCôMe

@MalikAbuG

“Relentless focus on innovation that is practical, content that is relevant for online and in-store consumption and strong customer support are the priorities that allow us to showcase our products and keep people coming back to Lancôme online.”

¬ We need to adapt and imagine new ways customers will interact with our brands via speech recognition. Customers will browse and order our products online by speaking to Siri or Alexa. They will request customer service, tips and tutorials by speaking into their devices. We have an opportunity to engage with customers in a way that can provide a whole new [sensory] experience of the voice behind our brand.

¬ I’m extremely interested to see how iBeacons and virtual reality can be integrated into the shopping experience moving forward—particularly for content-driven brands.

kat von DFounder, kat von d Beauty

@thekatvond, @katvondbeauty

“I am really focused on my fans. I try to engage as often as I can during my downtime. It’s important that my fans know I am listening and am present, both personally and professionally. In all facets of my life, I’m not afraid to test and try, and move on quickly, even if I fail.”

¬ Live video streams of makeup classes and events is changing the type of access that people have. It’s no longer so exclusive and is making beauty a much larger conversation and bigger community because you don’t actually have to be at these places to be able to experience and learn from them.

of new technologies like instant apps, progressive web apps and chatbots over the next few years. Also, artificial intelligence is going to disrupt pretty much every industry and beauty is no exception. Over the last few years, the amount of data available to retailers and brands about the consumer has grown exponentially. What AI allows us to do is to make the best possible use of all that data—to truly understand, connect with and personalize experiences for our clients. For beauty, which is so intimate and so personal, that capability is really a game-changer.

meHDI meHDIviCe PreSident oF digitaL, nyx ProFeSSionaL MakeuP

@medzx2

“I try to avoid doing anything digital just for the sake of being digital. Beauty is still, at its core, very personal and tactile. If we can show you the color and the texture without the barrier of a screen or a device, that’s my preferred option.”

¬ Despite the fact that I’ve historically been skeptical of social commerce, I’m really excited for shoppable Instagram. That channel has become the primary platform for consumption of beauty content, so making Instagram directly shoppable will be a game-changer for the industry.

marLena steLLCeo and PreSident, MakeuP geek

@Marlena_Stell

“Most ceos do not have a strong personal social media presence.”

¬ Any features that will support live-streaming will have a significant impact on beauty. The days of highly edited videos are in the past. People want to interact and engage with others in the present moment.

mary BetH LauGHtonSenior viCe PreSident, digitaL, SePhora

“My background at Nike and Sephora has made me uniquely consumer-obsessed. I learned to think through every decision with a consumer lens—are we solving a real problem for her? Even if a project has a high projected financial return, I make sure first and foremost that we are thinking through how a consumer will ultimately experience it, and not pursue it if we don’t think it will be amazing for her.”

¬ Mobile apps have completely transformed e-commerce over the last five years. With 90 percent of mobile time spent in apps, they’ve come to dominate because they offer seamless navigation and checkout, push notification capability and access to the camera, which makes native apps a more sophisticated channel that’s ideal for engaging a retailer’s best customers. It will be interesting to see how this evolves with the rise

moJ maHDaraCeo, BeautyCon Media

@mojism

“I am always scanning my social networks and prefer to consume my content through highly curated digital feeds. Seeing things through the lenses of curation shows thoughtfulness and cohesiveness that instant social shares often lack.”

¬ I love seeing companies that have embraced inclusiveness to create advanced products that apply to a much wider variety of skin tones, types and textures.

parHam aaraBIFounder and Ceo, ModiFaCe

@parhamaarabi

“Our approach is: Try. Fail. Learn. Succeed. Launch. Improve. We are hell-bent on experimentation, on trying out new ideas and innovations. That has helped us build the largest beauty tech patent portfolio and an amazing pipeline of new digital beauty technologies for the next decade.”

¬ Intelligent augmented reality, which applies deep learning to make augmented reality more realistic, more personalized and much more impactful. Essentially, by using artificial intelligence to analyze each person’s video, it becomes possible to provide more realistic try-on simulations (by accounting for lighting), better recommendations (by knowing information about their face type, skin color and hair color), and eventually, custom makeup products that are personalized for each user.

From left to right: Sylvie Moreau, janet Gurwitch, jen Atkin, jess Hatzis, Kat Von D, Laura nelson, Malik Abu-Ghazaleh, Marlena Stell, Mary beth Laughton, Mehdi Mehdi, Moj Mahdara, Parham Aarabi, Rachel Ten brink, Spencer McClung, Stephanie Horbaczewski, Tina Pozzi, Toto Haba


racHeL ten BrInkCMo and CoFounder, SCentBird and deCk oF SCarLet

“From the beginning, we focused on influencers as the number-one growth driver. We follow a two-pronged approach. First, we invest a lot of time on curation—identifying exactly the type of content and influencer-style that clicks with our audience. Then, we give influencers a lot of freedom to create the content so it’s authentic.”

¬ Artificial intelligence has huge potential for beauty. From diagnostic and recommendations to helping drive product development, I foresee a lot of growth in leveraging this technology.

spencer mccLunGexeCutive viCe PreSident, Media and PartnerShiPS, iPSy

“I’ve learned that the best way to stay current on digital trends is to put down my mobile and talk to smart people.”

¬ Augmented reality and virtual reality will provide new impactful ways for brands to engage with customers and beauty creators to engage with their followers. It will also become another reason to skip going to the mall.

stepHanIe HorBaczewskIPreSident and Ceo, StyLehauL

@Stylehaulsteph

“What sets StyleHaul apart from others is the scaled impact and influence our creators voice for a specific product launch or to advance trends for brands we work with.”

¬ A wide array of advancements will soon allow our experience with beauty products to be more personalized than it has ever been before. From 3-D-printing makeup to skin tone analyzers, we’ll start to see beauty brands use technology to respond to consumers’ increasing desire for personal solutions.

syLvIe moreauPreSident, Coty ProFeSSionaL Beauty

@sylviemoreaulepeigneul

“My social media presence blends my personal and professional side—we only have one life. This is reflected in my digital connections and the content I share, from highlights of my working day to the best hair creations from Wella stylists to news from our brands and personal updates and inspiration.”

¬ Virtual reality has limitless possibilities. There’s immense potential to enhance the consumer and salon client experience, enhance consultations and drive professional education….And mobile messaging—the innovation in mainstreaming real time one-to-one digital conversations is transforming consumer behaviors and expectations.

tIna pozzIaSSiStant viCe PreSident, SoCiaL Media and Content Marketing, urBan deCay

@tpozzi

“All marketing is digital. It’s not just about traffic, conversion or sales. It’s about bringing our brand where our consumer is (her phone) and capturing her attention.”

¬ It will be interesting to monitor the consumer adoption of 3-D printing. Personalization has been such a trend in the industry. If the technology evolves to deliver pigment payout, it could be a serious disruptor.

toto HaBaviCe PreSident, digitaL Strategy, BeneFit CoSMetiCS

“We have people on the ground in over 40 countries who are working with local influencers, creating content and making sure our brand DNA is understood. We manage over 150 marketing channels. Benefit is a global brand that believes in being hyperlocal.”

¬ It’s not new, but online retail will be the primary disrupter for beauty in the coming years. Foot traffic to department stores will continue to decline worldwide. The brands that win will have a smart distribution strategy online and be aggressive with their e-tail partners.

FoLLow tHe LeaDers whiLe we FoLLow MoSt oF theM on

SoCiaL Media, here’S who our digitaL guruS traCk daiLy.

e L o n M u S k

He is building technologies that will not only shape the next few years, but the next few centuries. —PARhAM AARABI

i d e o

I’m inspired by how they solve problems with clever simplicity and elegance across so many different fields.

—GuIve BALooch

e M i L y w e i S S

She has done a phenomenal job of developing a strong beauty identity for Glossier and a cult following via digital.

—JAnet GuRWItch

C h e L S e a h a n d L e r

She’s smart, clever and funny! —hudA KAttAn

S t e P h e n h a w k i n g

He helps us see how reality is stranger than fiction within black holes and he

stretches us to look up at the stars and think big. —SPENCER MCCLuNG

e v e r y F r a M e a Pa i n t i n g

It highlights different techniques used by the great filmmakers. Besides my personal interest in the subject, it helps reorient and

anchor what I’m trying to do in digital—use audio, visual and interactive experiences to tell stories and create connections

with our audience. —MEHDI MEHDI

M a r C a n d r e e S S e n

Inventor of Netscape and cofounder of a16z, he is a master at connecting the dots and shaping the future before it happens.

—ALESSIO ROSSI

@ g r a v 3 ya r d g i r L a n d @ g i r L B o S S

They are both unique, entrepreneurial and really great at content and connecting with their audiences. —MOj MAHDARA

@ B a d d i e w i n k L e

She is an amazing reminder about the importance of self-expression and personal style. —TINA POzzI

@ t h e _ t i a h

She’s a babe that’s got her life sorted. —BREE jOHNSON

Beauty’s DIGItaL power posse


QVC streams Beauty iQ content

live and makes it available

on a multitude of screens.

FEAT_QVC.indd 1 2/8/17 4:30 PM

watch this wayIn an effort to court MIllennIals, tV shoppIng channels are gIVIng

theIr beauty busInesses a socIal MedIa-InspIred tune-up.By raChel Brown Photographs by katie mccurdy

REC

00:00:02:17

wwd beauty inc 25


26 wwd beauty inc

80 percent of Internet traffic will come from video

viewing.”

For legacy home shopping companies that means

turning commerce into a conversation, reassessing

the personalities talking to customers and their

show’s settings, bringing in budding beauty brands,

creating on-demand content and leveraging digital

platforms, particularly Facebook, to distribute that

content. The stakes are high: The channels that

succeed in skillfully combining the communicative

power of social media with their enormous exist-

ing sales engines will win; the rest may take their

The kicker: Everyone’s invited. The tour is hap-

pening virtually on HSN and Benefit’s web sites, and

is streaming on their Facebook accounts. Although

the nearly 50-minute visit to Benefit is HSN pro-

gramming, there’s no studio set in sight, and it’s not

shown on television. HSN customers can watch it on

their phones, laptops or tablets whenever they want

and, if they feel like purchasing, they can head to the

web. Welcome to next-generation television technol-

ogy, where live-streaming has become live shopping.

“At HSN, you are selling. You have minute-by-

minute goals you have to hit. Whereas this is much

more about storytelling and allowing for a shop-

pable moment,” says Ford Danielson a day before

the cameras were rolling at the Benefit building on

Jan. 20. “It’s allowing an online consumer to have

an in-person experience.”

Literally and figuratively, home-shopping tele-

vision is escaping the box. While old-school small

screens are sticking around for now, players such

as QVC, HSN and Evine (fka Shop NBC) are adjust-

ing to the reality that younger consumers aren’t as

attached to television screens as older shoppers, but

are willing to pioneer new ways to shop via video.

At a time when traditional retail formats over-

all are struggling, home shopping networks aren’t

immune. Although annual figures from 2015 show

revenues at QVC, HSN and Evine all lifting three

percent to $6.26 billion, $3.69 billion and $693.3

million respectively, the most recent results for the

third quarter of 2016 are less rosy. Revenues for

QVC’s parent company Liberty Interactive Corp.

slid 3 percent to $1.9 billion, HSN’s fell 5 percent

to $823 million and Evine’s decreased 7 percent to

$152 million.

“It’s the Netflix effect,” says Taylor Frankel,

cofounder of Nudestix, which is sold on QVC. “Mil-

lennials want instant content, instant gratification

and content that’s relevant to them.”

The solution seems to be more, not less, video—

albeit video that’s platform-agnostic. Rachel Tipo-

graph, founder and chief executive officer of mobile

video shopping startup MikMak, predicts, “By 2019,

this will be the predominant way of selling because

place in nostalgia tales alongside typewriters and

the telegraph.

In a bid for a broader audience, QVC has made

the biggest splash. On Oct. 31, it launched Beauty

iQ, a multiplatform network for beauty junkies, a

group that skews Millennial, with brands includ-

ing Nudestix, Laura Geller, Peter Thomas Roth,

Becca Cosmetics, Josie Maran, Tarte, It Cosmetics,

Tatcha, Dr. Dennis Gross, Edward Bess and Mally

Beauty. It generates four hours of live programing

nightly airing on a television channel that reaches

40 million homes, and streaming on social media

and web sites. Beauty iQ was informed by insights

from a dedicated beauty channel in the U.K., which

QVC said accounted for almost 10 percent of new

customers from Jan. 1 to June 30 last year. Overall,

beauty accounts for 17 percent, or slightly more than

$1 billion, of QVC’s global sales.

“It feels very different from QVC,” said QVC ceo

Mike George of Beauty iQ during Liberty Interac-

tive’s third-quarter earnings conference call. “It has

a much more contemporary vibe, a little bit more

like beauty bloggers on YouTube. It’s a way to imag-

ine QVC for another generation and to take this very

dynamic growing area of beauty and present it in

a different way.”

Beauty iQ reacts to the media landscape George

referred to as an “over-the-top live and on-demand

environment” by streaming its content live, and,

when it’s not live, making it readily available for

shoppers whenever they choose to view it on what-

ever devices. From Beauty iQ and beyond, QVC has

produced over 500 live-streams across multiple

Facebook Live pages, accruing more than 5.5 mil-

lion Facebook Live views.

Both QVC and HSN are also putting content on

Roku, the TV live-streaming service, and QVC intro-

duced an app on Apple TV in 2015. Amazon’s take

on home shopping, Style Code Live, is accessible on

the e-commerce giant’s Fire TV. HSN yielded 16,000

downloads on Roku in July, the first month on the

platform, according to Alicia Valencia, senior vice

president of beauty at HSN. “The on-demand piece

is really key to Millennials,” she says. “If you are try-

ing to reach a Millennial, it has to be on her terms.”

YouTube, in particular, has had a large impact on

the evolution of beauty programming. Beauty iQ is

tailored to customers familiar with its popular tuto-

rials. “Our entire focus is to spend time to teach you

about the product and how to use it,” says Rachel

Ungaro, vice president of buying for apparel, acces-

sories, beauty and jewelry at QVC. “We will show a

full face on Beauty iQ from start to finish, where we

probably won’t do something like that on the main

channel,” she cites as an example.

Elana Drell-Szyfer, ceo of Laura Geller Beauty,

says Beauty iQ’s approach allows the brand to deep

dive into a topic. A recent show examined “matte,

not flat” makeup. “Instead of going wide in terms

of the product we offer, we go deep on information,”

says Drell-Szyfer.

Taking further cues from YouTube, content that

spotlights several brands together is increasing.

all it the ultimate insider’s tour. ¶ “Welcome

to our home,” trills Annie Ford Danielson, global

beauty authority and guardian of brand DNA at

Benefit Cosmetics, kicking off a tour of the com-

pany’s headquarters in San Francisco. But this is

no ordinary walk-through. It contains a Champagne doughnut

party, explores the history of Benefit, peeks at launches in Ben-

efit’s They’re Real franchise and shows Ford Danielson and her

sister, Maggie (they’re the daughters/nieces of the brand’s found-

ers Jean and Jane), bonding over makeup.

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

Source: QVC

The air indexQVC’s top 10 bEauty bRands in 2016.

C


Ungaro cites a segment called Beauty Bash!, which

she says has scored some of the highest engagement

so far on Beauty iQ. “It makes it a lot more realis-

tic in the long run for how the customer is actually

shopping,” she says.

Style Code Live, a sort of mash-up of “Entertain-

ment Tonight,” QVC and YouTube that began in

March, rarely zeroes in on a single brand. “Gener-

ally, we want to show as broad a selection as pos-

sible. We are not trying to feature specific brands,”

says an Amazon spokesperson. “Amazon is all about

product discovery and selection, so Style Code Live

is an extension of that.”

Aiding that discovery doesn’t require a strong

sales pitch. On Beauty iQ and elsewhere in home

shopping, there is a shift away from strict selling

to a softer, more relatable tone. “I am able to not

only tell my story, talk about the love I have for my

products, but also just have fun with it and connect

with the viewer,” says Frankel.

Back at HSN, Ford Danielson says, “The less you

sell, and the more you hang out, the

better you do.” Valencia indicates

the Millennial customer isn’t a fan

of fluffy product boasts. “She doesn’t

want to hear all the buzzwords. She

wants to know what a product does

and why she needs it,” she says, noting

HSN has been overhauling its beauty

product information online to reflect

those preferences as well.

Part of the tonal change is

related to interactivity. Programs

increasingly incorporate questions

and comments from social media.

Beauty iQ brand representatives and

hosts field incoming inquiries from

Facebook Live. “It’s really about

reaching out, giving the informa-

tion and not selling. It’s a beauty

community,” says Jillian Veran-Rezo,

national artistry advisor for Laura

Geller and Beauty iQ guest for the brand. Ama-

zon’s Style Code Live has a chat host that helps

respond to viewer inquiries as they come in, and

a confetti bag feature that shows bags filling up

and exploding as viewer clicks accumulate. “We

wanted it to be interactive and engaging, and

feel like a discussion in a community with the

hosts, bloggers and celebrities,” says an Amazon

spokesperson.

Of course, the brands being sold also must appeal

to Millennials. Similar to the rest of the beauty

industry, Indie brands are rising on home shopping

platforms. In November of last year, George said,

“With our new Beauty iQ channel, we now have a

platform to more rapidly introduce the hottest new

Indie brands, and we have another 35 brands we’re

assessing for launch on Beauty iQ as early as Q1.”

Overall at QVC, he estimated, 40 new beauty brands

are being added in the first half of 2017. Among

the newcomers to QVC are Unwash, Skyn Iceland,

Kristofer Buckle, DCL Skin Care, Dr. Jart, Derma 9,

Obliphica and René Furterer.

Valencia at HSN highlights smaller brands like

Pür, Brow Gal and Smith & Cult as making inroads

with younger shoppers and underscores HSN often

puts Indie brands online first for customer acquisi-

tion purposes. “It doesn’t have to be one of the big

brands for her to gravitate to it. On the contrary,

she’d rather them not be,” she says.

The relationships consumers have with Indie

beauty brands goes beyond products. They con-

nect to their backstories, expertise and passion.

Television can uniquely present brand creators to

audiences, and programs take advantage of that.

Viewers “love to hear from the founders. They love

to hear their voices, what their inspiration is and

about the products,” says Valencia. Ford Danielson

elaborates, “[HSN] is really now pushing for found-

ers or people who have been a part of the brand to

have that intimate connection with the viewer, so it

doesn’t feel like a sales person selling you a product

from a studio.”

Models, too, can’t be insincere selling ploys. On

Style Code Live, models aren’t too perfect. “Our

viewers like to see real people up there who have

skin problems like they do or have hair that makes

it challenging to do the trends that they are learning

from our how-tos,” says an Amazon spokesperson.

It’s difficult to be fully real inside a studio.

There are numerous efforts to exit studios or, at

least, make studios seem less inert. HSN’s jaunt to

Benefit Cosmetics in San Francisco followed pro-

gramming from Too Faced’s Southern California

offices on Dec. 21. HSN is hoping to do far-from-

the-studio broadcasts quarterly or monthly. “Are

we looking to make sales from it? Absolutely, but

it’s really about bringing that behind-the-scenes

look that [shoppers] can’t get from other plat-

forms,” says Valencia.

Sales, though, may get a boost from the unusual

outings. In September of last year, Evine aired the

Perfect Beekend, an hour split between content

from the farm that’s home to the founders of the

natural bath and body products brand Beekman

1802 and content from the set rendered informal

with hosts in their pajamas. Evine doubled its

sales expectations for the show. “The customer

is looking for more than someone at the podium

selling cream,” says Teresa Harris, vice president

of merchandising in Evine’s beauty division.

“They want to know more about the brand.”

These initiatives are well and good, but MikMak’s

Tipograph isn’t convinced they will convert Millen-

nials. She argues the home-shopping television stal-

warts aren’t truly pushing the needle. “It feels very

close to their original concept of programming,” says

Tipograph. Segueing to the origins of MikMak, she

says, “QVC and HSN were born for television, and

they do well via the mode of television. What if I

create supershort, shoppable infomercials designed

for we who grew up with the phone as our primary

entertainment device?”

To that end, MikMak produces 30-second vid-

eos with comedians as hosts concentrating on

products that are under $100, and

then harnesses data to get the vid-

eos to the people for which they are

intended. More than 200 brand part-

ners, including L’Oréal, GE and Pola-

roid, have worked with it. “Let’s say

we are selling foundation that targets

women who have acne. I am not going

to show that to everybody. I’m going

to show that to the audience that

most likely has those attributes,” she

says. “It’s all about relevance. No one

wants to be served a product that’s

not relevant to them.”

Indeed, relevance is that transient

quality home shopping concepts are

vying for. Early results from the

changes they’ve made may be posi-

tive, but they don’t yet confirm rel-

evance has been achieved.

Drell-Szyfer SayS the audience at Beauty iQ

is, not surprisingly, “fractionally smaller” than QVC’s

audience, but that, “In a very short period of time,

it’s gained a lot of attention and interaction.” Ungaro

is betting programming like what’s being done at

Beauty iQ can win over her 12-year-old daughter and

perhaps millions of her peers. “She watches shows

when she wants to watch them. We stream all of our

live broadcasts on dot-com, so she can do that,” says

Ungaro. “We can be there for her when she wants

us to be live, and we can be there for her when she

wants us otherwise.”

Donna Tarantino, former director of beauty and

wellness for ShopNBC, and president and founder

of marketing firm Planet Pink, is comparatively

optimistic. “If anybody can get in touch with the

younger generation, it’s QVC or HSN. They are at

the forefront of trying to do that. They are using

social media, and learning the education and tuto-

rial piece from influencers and bloggers, and trying

to tap into it.” ■

wwd beauty inc 27


FEAT_Magazines.indd 1 2/8/17 5:38 PM

As digitAl dominAtes

the informAtion ecosystem,

mAgAzine publishers

Are Adjusting to the truth of

A plAtform in decline—

And grAppling with the

reAlity of diversificAtion.

By jenny b. fine Photograph by fAbiAn Öhrn

Prop Styling by grAce hArtnett

wwd Beauty inc 29

FEAT_Magazines.indd 2 2/17/17 11:21 AM

30 wwd beauty inc

the platform (print) to being content creators for

digital platforms profitable enough? Are magazines

the base of the pyramid or the icing on the cake?

Such are the questions media executives are grap-

pling with every day.

“Print is our heritage and it would be crazy to

run away from the heritage,” says Jim Norton, who

was named chief business officer and president of

revenue of Condé Nast in October, joining the com-

pany from AOL where he led global media sales.

“Is it the most effective delivery mechanism for

the great content we produce? It is certainly not as

strong as it was 10 years ago, five years ago or even

last year. The distribution of wood-based media is

a waning platform.”

Similar to nearly every other industry, media

brands have expanded into digital and social media

to meet Millennials on their home turf. “We have

to adapt the way in which our content gets deliv-

ered,” says Norton. “It is mobile first and very much

socially driven, and the need for us to win in the

feed, that side-door entry method that they are pick-

ing up in their social feeds—that is where we have

a lot of focus.”

Condé Nast is far from alone. Every major pub-

lishing company has built a robust digital presence

for its marquee brands. “The model is definitely

integrated,” says Michael Clinton, president, mar-

keting and publishing director of Hearst Magazines.

“We don’t care where the point of entry is—just

that she is engaging with the brand. The beauty of

digital is that we have multiple ways of connecting

with audiences…The buildout of Cosmo Snapchat

is enormous, for example, and while there is not

subscription revenue, there is a lot of advertising

revenue. It allows us to monetize the brand in many

different ways, which is a new model.”

According to Poynter, Cosmopolitan’s Snapchat

Discover channel generated 19 million average

monthly visits in December. As Silber points out,

while figures like that have been very positive for

the host platform—to wit, those revenue increases—

it is less clear how sizable the return will be for the

content creators, in this case Cosmo. The key is to

own the audience, says Silber. “I’m not sure what’s

coming next,” he notes, “but if I were a media com-

pany, I wouldn’t be comfortable having someone

else own the way an audience interacts with my

content. I would be devoting resources to making

my interaction with the audience direct, with e-mail

newsletters, mobile alerts, whatever it is.”

Also unclear is whether ad revenues from digital

can even begin to approach the profitability of print

at its heyday. “They are print companies—that is

their core, and it is unclear whether digital revenues

will ever equal print revenues, because they charge

less and it is labor intensive,” says Tom Delaney,

publisher of the media and marketing newsletter,

The Delaney Report. “Are they making money? Who

knows? It’s like Trump’s taxes—we will never know

because they are private companies.”

What is certain is the impact that the new reality

is having on the editorial side of the business—start-

define it—it might be video, it might be program-

matic, it might be marketing services, it might be

e-commerce, it might be relying more on subscrip-

tions than on advertising.”

Meanwhile, digital platforms continue to post

record-breaking revenues. Facebook reported a 57

percent increase in year-over-year ad revenues for

2016 to $26.9 billion and an 18 percent increase in

daily active users to 1.23 billion. For the fourth quar-

ter of 2016 alone, mobile represented 84 percent of

all advertising revenue, or about $7.2 billion.

For its part, Snap, parent company of Snapchat,

released its first public prospectus in early Febru-

ary in advance of an initial public offering, show-

ing advertising revenues of $404 million in 2016,

versus $58.7 million the year before, a nearly sev-

enfold increase.

“We are in a state of change and dramatic trans-

formation across the board in every business,” says

Jane Hertzmark Hudis, group president at the

Estée Lauder Cos. “We as beauty brands are becom-

ing not only product companies, but product and

media companies. Every year, we are allocating a

significantly greater portion of our time, energy and

human talent, external and internal, to digital and

social. Having said that, magazines play a key and

vital role in this industry. The way we are consum-

ing media is not about one piece of the puzzle or

the other, but how they all fit together.”

All of which begs the question: In an omnichan-

nel world, what is the role—and the future—of heri-

tage media brands? Is the evolution from owning

In today’s information ecosystem, print is the ulti-mate paradox. ¶ On the one hand, celebrities are still clamoring to land covers, A-list editors are still treated like royalty and even online influencers vie for space in the very pages of the publications they’ve supplanted

as top tastemakers. ¶ On the other, the number of titles continues to contract alarmingly, editors once considered industry institutions are getting the boot (ouch!) and brands that once vied for prime positioning in the glossy pages of a top-tier magazine have defected to digital (best-case scenario) or even started their own competing content plays (worst).

Yet one can’t live without the other. Just as in the

beauty industry where heritage brands are feeling

the pinch of digital upstarts, so goes life in publish-

ing, where titles once considered untouchable are

feeling their way in an uncertain future, looking to

staunch declining print revenues with increased

digital sales, new revenue streams like e-commerce

and events and large-scale layoffs. “The business

model is completely unclear, so there is a series of

convulsions going on,” says Tony Silber, vice presi-

dent of content at Folio and MIN, citing Meredith

Corp. as but one recent example. Less than a week

after reporting fiscal 2017 second-quarter ad rev-

enues increased 11 percent to $267 million in late

January, the company announced 40 layoffs. A look

at the numbers shows that while Meredith’s TV rev-

enues increased 31 percent to $183 million, its mag-

azine revenues declined 2 percent to $135 million.

Digital advertising revenue increased 16 percent.

For its part, Time Inc.’s third-quarter 2016 reve-

nues, the most recent period for which figures were

available, decreased $23 million, or 3 percent, pri-

marily reflecting declines in print and other adver-

tising revenues, and circulation revenues, accord-

ing to the company. Time’s advertising revenues

increased 5 percent in the same period to $19 mil-

lion, which it attributed primarily to the acquisition

of the ad technology company Viant and, to a lesser

extent, to programmatic sales. Time announced lay-

offs in January as well, which came on top of a 2016

that saw the company significantly revamp its top

leadership and slash more than 100 jobs.

While Condé Nast and Hearst are privately held

companies that don’t disclose numbers, executive

shake-ups, title closings, layoffs, position consoli-

dation and a push to diversify have made headlines

all around.

“These are blue chip media companies—they are

as good as it gets and for them to be scrambling

and struggling says a lot,” says Silber. “It doesn’t

indicate an underlying lack of health, but it under-

lies a struggle over what the new model is. The fact

is, there is no stable model. They are struggling to

“Are they mAking money?...it’s like

trump’s tAxes—we will never know

becAuse they Are privAte compAnies.”

Tom delaney, the Delaney Report


wwd beauty inc 31

ing at the top. Editors in chief must also be social

media-savvy influencers in chief. Time Inc., for

example, recently poached Harper’s Bazaar’s Laura

Brown, who had 116,000 Instagram followers as of

press time, to be editor in chief of InStyle, replac-

ing Ariel Foxman whose following numbered 25,100

(about the same as Glamour editor in chief Cindi

Leive and slightly more than Allure editor Michelle

Lee. Anna Wintour, artistic director of Condé Nast

and editor in chief of Vogue, doesn’t seem to have an

official Instagram presence, although her daughter,

Bee Shaffer, has an impressive following of 95,000.)

“Laura Brown is an influencer in a ton of ways,”

says Brad Elders, executive vice president and chief

revenue officer of Time Inc. “That is the lens by

which we are looking to make these important hires.

They have to be comfortable with social media and

have the ability to bring the consumer population

along for the ride. It creates an avenue in which we

can work with our advertising partners.”

But being a social media star can also be tricky

terrain for an editor. Says one beauty editor at a

top publishing house who spoke on conditions of

anonymity, “The social media expectations on us

are constantly evolving. There is pressure to be the

face of the brand, but not too much—so to compare

the crowd that an editor would pull at a depart-

ment store event versus someone like Man Repel-

ler is unfair, because I might get penalized if I were

constantly self-promoting in a way that makes me

bigger than the magazine.”

Linda Wells, the former editor in chief of Allure

who currently edits a beauty insert for multiple

Hearst Magazines and is beauty editor at large of

New York’s The Cut, believes opinion is more impor-

tant than eyeballs. “Editors need a point of view, a

very strong identity,” she says. “I don’t think that a

lot of followers always translates to broad success.

It’s like when editors had to go on TV in the morn-

ing shows. I don’t know that it created a single

subscription,” she laughs. “The value was in gain-

ing relationships with beauty brands. It was great

to go on the Today show and talk about a product

that otherwise would have no chance to be on the

show. Now, there are more direct ways for brands

to reach the consumer.”

And therein lies the rub. Today, many of the

very brands that were once a magazine’s bread

and butter have their own content plays—making

them both client and competitor with many media

brands. “Every brand is a media company and that

is not exclusive to magazines,” says Rachel Davis

Mersey, PhD, an associate professor at Northwestern

University’s Medill School of Journalism. “As those

brands begin to exercise knowledge of the mar-

ketplace and their audience, the blurring is going

to become so hazy it’s hard to find the center. My

sense is that if it is high-quality content that people

are engaged with, they are less concerned about the

source, whether it is Revlon or Allure.”

It’s that very sense of information overload that

may serve to save magazines in the end, particularly

in the age of fake news. “There is a place for print,”

says Marc Rey, chief executive officer of Shiseido’s

American subsidiary. “Where they need to compete

is content and point of view. They can’t compete on

news—that would be like if Macy’s tried to compete

in time of delivery against Amazon,” he says. “But

the thinking, the relevancy, the information—there

is still a place for that.”

For Elle’s beauty director, Emily Dougherty, that

means continually being ahead of the curve. “When

I look at my pages, every square inch needs to be

packed with information that the reader can’t get

for free,” she says. “If you’re just reporting on the

trends, you’re competing with everyone online. If

you’re interpreting and predicting where the market

goes, you will always have the reader.”

InStyle, too, is expanding the parameters of its

traditional coverage. “For a young reader, it’s a

lifestyle choice to pick up a magazine,” says fash-

ion news director Eric Wilson. “They are engaging

directly with celebrities and have all this informa-

tion at their fingertips, so our concept for print is

to go way beyond the kind of coverage we used to

do.” As an example, he cites a profile of designer

Jonathan Anderson. “Designers who once would

have been unheard of are now getting coverage,”

says Wilson. “Readers want to be exposed to new

names more quickly than in the past.”

The new balancing act for editors is to maintain a

strong point of view despite the ongoing consolida-

tion of editorial functions and the increased role edi-

tors are expected to play, from the sanctioned, such

as co-creators of branded content and overseers of

events, to the implicit. Says one longtime beauty edi-

tor, “You are asked to do things a marketing person

would normally do, in addition to the editorial stuff—

consult with brands, help them navigate the next two,

three, five years in product launches, create advertorial

ideas—anything a brand wants we are offered up for.

Anything they want, they get.”

Despite the continual reallocation of media dollars,

beauty marketers insist that they are still interested in

the print platform, noting that it provides them with a

suitable environment to “express the official point of

view of the brand in a place that has a lot of credibility

with consumers,” as Shiseido’s Rey puts it.

Perhaps no one better personifies the dichotomy

of the media landscape than Emily Weiss, a for-

mer editor who founded the fledgling product line

Glossier and the content web site, Into the Gloss.

Ask her about the future of content and her answer

is instantaneous: “Products represent the future of

content—we live in the age of user-generated con-

tent and product reviews,” she says. “I see products

as an object for you to interpret in whatever way

you want to create your own narrative.”

But the brand side of her recognizes the endur-

ing power of print. “Brand names like Vogue and

Allure create a ton of legitimacy,” Weiss says. “We

won an Allure Best of Beauty [award]. For a direct-

to-consumer brand, we have good penetration and

great reviews, but for a woman in the middle of the

country to discover us through that—it creates a

credibility that wouldn’t otherwise exist.” ■

A Post-Print BluePrint Former beauty editor Patricia reynoso on liFe aFter magazines.

I’ve been laId off three tImes. Three times I’ve been summoned to a mystery meeting for which I’ve grabbed my notebook just in case notes were needed. I’ve made my way down a quiet hallway, my heart jumping out of my chest once I realize that perhaps there isn’t any meeting. I’ve been ushered into a conference room where usually a lone box of tissues rests on the center of the table, an HR rep and my editor in chief sitting solemnly around it.

Damn, I think. Again?And yet—I loved being a magazine beauty

editor. I had the dreamiest of jobs at several dreamy magazines: W, Ladies’ Home Journal, and most recently, as editor of Glamour’s Glam Belleza Latina. I’ve worn my name tag proudly at the hundreds of launch events that I’ve attended over two decades. I asked good questions and complained only minimally on press trips. However, none of this has protected me from publishing’s new economic reality of less print, more digital. I understand the shift, though. My teenage kids would rather skip dinner than have their phones taken away.

So here I am. Yet another publishing veteran trying to transition her experience towards the next, most likely digitally focused, career phase. Am I digital? What does that even mean? To paraphrase my husband by way of Jay Z and Kanye West via “Blades of Glory”: “Digital? No one knows what it means, but it gets the people going!”

This is why on most days, you’ll find me scrounging up my digital experience like someone trying to find coins behind her sofa cushions. And I do have significant experience. I spent five years in public relations at Lancôme, working with Michelle Phan, the brand’s (and the industry’s) first video makeup artist. I courted beauty bloggers back when few brands returned their e-mails. Most recently, I wrapped up a gig with Hearst’s Branded Content Studio.

It was there that I learned valuable lessons that go beyond SEO and impressions and metrics. I learned that print editors must hold their precious experience with a skeptical eye. (Yes, you were amazing and did amazing things but your new coworkers are half your age, and they’re not impressed.) Time spent forming strong relationships with everyone—not just the cool people—will pay off now. (You never know who will give you a helping hand.) Remember that when you’re writing stories, fast and nimble always supersedes slow and methodical.

Now please excuse me. The kids are cracking up over a Snapchat video and I want to get a laugh.


32 wwd beauty inc

WWD Beauty Inc’s go-to guIDe of prInt anD onlIne Beauty eDItors, hoW they DefIne theIr unIque poInts of vIeW anD the approxImate sIzes of theIr auDIence. comPileD By LayLa ILchI

allurePrint

Jenny BaILLy, execuTIve BeauTy dIrecTorcirculation: 1.172 million; avg. 80-85 beauty pages/issue¬ “Beauty is our inspiration, sometimes it’s our aspiration and always, it’s the lens through which we see the world. Travel, celebrity, art, food, politics—we explore everything through this universal point of entry.”

Digital

SophIa panych, dIgITaL depuTy BeauTy dIrecTor reach: 5 million monthly uniques*; avg. 18-20 posts/day¬ “We maintain the same ethos of the magazine—the same level of reporting, quality of experts, beautiful imagery and approach to beauty in a smart, inclusive way that goes beyond a smoky eye tutorial. But we have a great one of those, too.”

CosmoPolitan PRINTcirculation: 3 million; avg. 18 beauty pages/issue Leah wyar romIToSee hearST

Digital

carLy cardeLLIno, BeauTy dIrecTor reach: 16.3 million monthly uniques*; avg. 3-5 stories/day¬ “I always want Cosmopolitan.com readers to feel like they are discovering trends with us, rather than feel like we’re talking down to them. I tap into the feedback we receive across all of our

social platforms, to learn what our readers want more of and what angles and language they respond to.”

elle Print

emILy dougherTy, BeauTy and FITneSS dIrecTor circulation: 1.1 million; avg. 13 beauty pages/issue¬ “I don't just cover what people want to know about right at this second—we have Google for that. Instead, I share with my readers what they are going to be dreaming about tomorrow.”

Digital

JuLIe SchoTT, BeauTy dIrecTor reach: 7.5 million monthly uniques*; avg. 3-4 posts/day¬ “Our beauty content covers more than just beauty. Take our Braid Star video series: In each episode, hair stylist Guingui (the Picasso of braiding) creates an insane new look for a musician or actress, set to a soundtrack you’d listen to on Spotify.”

essenCePrint anD Digital

JuLee wILSon, BeauTy and STyLe dIrecTor circulation: 1 million; 4-5 stories/issueReach: 4.4 million monthly uniques*; 7 posts/day¬ “Our coverage is a daily celebration of the beautiful diversity of black women. Whether swooning over a stunning celebrity look, learning to slay the hottest hairstyle, or basking in the dopeness of our everyday beauty we strive to give our readers inspiration.”

¬ “Our unparalleled access to celebrity artists and stylists means we are able to provide insider beauty inspiration while breaking runway and red-carpet trends daily.”

marie ClairePrint

erIn FLaherTy, BeauTy and heaLTh dIrecTor circulation: 1 million; avg. 16 stories/issue¬ “Our approach is global in nature, not only because it's part of our DNA, but also because it's important to view beauty through an anthropological lens. I don’t believe in ‘makeovers’ or ‘how to copy a celebrity’s look.’ Our readers, and women in general, are more confident than that, so I try to keep that in mind by offering coverage that never dictates, only inspires.”

Digital

Lauren vaLenTI, BeauTy edITorreach: 6 million monthly uniques*; avg. 4-5 posts/day¬ “We actively research and identify gaps in the online beauty space. Sometimes that means spotlighting a powerful movement that hasn’t gone mainstream yet; other times it’s as simple as being the first to report a crazy new trend emerging on Instagram.”

new york magazine/ the CutPrint anD Digital

KaThLeen hou, SenIor BeauTy edITor circulation: 400,000reach: 7.6 million monthly uniques; 4 posts/day ¬ “I cover the who, what, where, why and how of beauty, but I'm also really interested in beauty from an anthropological point of view and like to examine the context in which all people consume, view and use beauty, whether it be at Fashion Week, on social media or in ‘real’ life.”

glamourPrint anD Digital

yIng chu, execuTIve BeauTy dIrecTor circulation: 2.3 million; 10-20 beauty pages/issuereach: 8 million monthly uniques*; 3-4 avg. posts/day ¬ “Glamour is a huge, iconic American brand; our women are diverse in every way. My priority is to make sure that their diverse voices and beauty interests are always represented. And to find the most interesting angles for short- and long-lead stories. There’s an art to that.”

good housekeePingPrint

aprIL FranzIno, BeauTy dIrecTor circulation: 4.3 million; avg. 6 pages/issue¬ “We look at not only what’s gorgeous and of-the-moment, but how to translate that into our readers’ everyday lives, bringing them actionable, accessible, surprising tips and solutions. We then use our Beauty Lab scientists’ expertise and rigorous testing to distill what’s worth it for readers and what’s not.”

harPer’s BazaarPrint

aLexandra parnaSS, BeauTy dIrecTor circulation: 737,000; avg. 16 stories/issue¬ “I take my role as a tastemaker seriously, and set an incredibly high

bar for what makes the cut. That means digging deep into the science and technology of what’s happening in ingredient delivery, cutting-edge cosmetic procedures and anything in the antiaging arena, including health and fitness.”

Digital

Jenna roSenSTeIn, SenIor BeauTy edITor reach: 6.5 million monthly uniques*; 3-4 posts/day ¬ “I focus on what I know our audience loves as opposed to what happens to be viral that day. I take a scientific approach, yet I still serve it to our readers as if it’s information coming from a friend. It’s about striking that tricky balance between a conversational tone and hard-hitting research.”

hearst magazines Cosmopolitan, Seventeen, Redbook, Good Housekeeping, Women’s DayPrint:

Leah wyar romITo, chIeF BeauTy dIrecTor, hearST magazIneS¬ “In my role, I oversee the production of 60+ edit pages per month, scaling information to a collective audience of 15 million women, spanning four generations.”

instylePrint anD Digital

angeLIque Serrano, BeauTy dIrecTor circulation: 1.7 million; 20 pages/issueReach: 6.4 million monthly uniques*; avg. 10 posts/day

LInda weLLS, BeauTy edITor aT Large ¬ “I gravitate to stories about people and products that shape our culture's view of beauty, and I love entering particular worlds (Sephora, QVC) to discover how they function and what they mean, kind of like a beauty-centric, risk-averse George Plimpton. Generally, I leave the Kardashian-Jenner industrial complex to the rest of the interweb. Since I have a jillion years of experience in the field, I can spot bogus products and trends, and I'll call them out if they're duping consumers.”

nylonPrint

Jade TayLor, BeauTy edITor circulation: 1.2 million; avg. 6 stories/issue¬ “I've conceptualized editorials inspired by aliens, mall Goths, skaters, drag queens...should I keep going? My aesthetic is very antibeauty editor sometimes. Feminism is not a beauty trend. Body hair is not a beauty trend. Gender identity is not a beauty trend. But they’re important topics that I weave into my stories with the hopes they might help, inspire or encourage our readers who might feel alone or different.”

o, the oPrah magazine

vaL monroe, BeauTy dIrecTorcirculation: 2.4 million; avg. 9 pages/issue¬ “Oprah Winfrey stands for a relentless authenticity that pervades the magazine, and the beauty pages are no exception. We write about beauty in a way that honors the reader: Keeping promises realistic, ideals within reach and a tone that invites and inspires her.”


wwd Beauty inc 33

healthcirculation: 1.36 million; 4-5 stories/issuereach: 8.6 million uniques*; 1-3 stories/day ¬ “For Health readers, looking good is feeling good. They want to know, above all: Is it good for you? And does it work? Our beauty content sweet spot is the intersection between science and trends.”

redBookPrint

vIcTorIa KIrBy, BeauTy dIrecTorcirculation: 2.2 million; avg. 16 pages/issue ¬ “Redbook is her personal beauty consultant. We offer straightforward, conversational advice that makes her life easier, her routine faster and more effective and gives her confidence.”

stylewatChPrint

hoLLy carTer, BeauTy dIrecTorcirculation: 825,081; avg. 12-16 beauty pages/issue¬ “We are about making beauty accessible and fun. Our goal is to make readers’ lives easier by distilling down the science of beauty into simple solutions, curating lists of products that work and provide value.”

teen VoguePrint

JeSSIca maTLIn, BeauTy and heaLTh dIrecTorcirculation: 1,007,108; avg. 5 stories/issue¬ “Our stories frequently go beyond tips and techniques to reflect the cultural and political Zeitgeist. Still, I do love makeup, skin care and all that fun stuff: I got into

the business because as a teen, I understood that beauty is an incredible tool for creativity, self-expression and individuality. Instead of celebrating someone else’s idea of #goals, it’s my job to help our readers find that within themselves.”

Digital

emILy gaynor, dIgITaL BeauTy edITorreach: 4.4 million monthly uniques*; avg. 7 posts/weekday, 2 per day on weekends¬ “We like to explore the intersection of beauty and identity. A big part of our mission is empowering and emboldening young people to explore personal expression.”

town & CountryPrint

JamIe roSen, BeauTy dIrecTorPrint: 453,000 circulation; avg. 5 pages/issue¬ “Our readers are not coming to us for how-tos and basic instruction. Because price, distance and detail are not limitations, we report on the cutting edge of longevity medicine, bespoke diets and the endless pursuit of youth and beauty. We filter everything through a cultural lens that touches on art, design, travel and politics.”

us weeklyPrint anD Digital

gwen FLamBerg, BeauTy dIrecTorcirculation: 1.9 million; 1.5 pages per issuereach: 20.4 million monthly uniques*; average 10 posts/day¬ “Our access to Hollywood and A-List glam squad pros is unrivaled, giving Us robust red carpet expertise. I quickly identify and report trends and stories across all platforms. With the immediate feedback we get through digital and social, not to mention beauty trends that groundswell in Hollywood, I can make our

into the gloss

emILy FerBer, SenIor edITorreach: 302,000 monthly uniques*; avg. 2 posts/day¬ “We’re very thoughtful with everything we publish—we’re less about covering every new launch and more focused on the absolute best products we’ve found from our experience and personal routines. It’s a slower and more deliberate process.”

PoPsugar

Lauren LevInSon, SenIor BeauTy edITorreach: 7.4 million monthly uniques*; avg. 8-15 posts/day¬ “We empower and inspire our readers to feel beautiful inside and out while respecting their individuality. Our content covers all ethnicities, complexions and hair types: you'll find everything from an Indian bridal makeup tutorial to holistic ways to deal with acne.”

refinery29

caT quInn, BeauTy dIrecTorreach: 19 million monthly uniques*; 15-20 posts/day¬ “Celebrating individuality is at the heart of everything Refinery29 does. We see beauty as a means to enhance and transform, rather than a limiting set of rules. We aim to make our readers feel uplifted, inspired, and represented every time they come to our site.”

the zoe rePort

STephanIe monTeS, SenIor BeauTy edITorreach: 2.8 million monthly uniques*; avg. 5 stories/day¬ “Our content is geared towards the busy modern woman, providing her with multitasking products, speedy tutorials and expert tips to look beautiful with minimal effort.”

pages a part of the beauty conversation at any moment.”

Vanity fairPrint anD Digital

Sunhee grInneLL, BeauTy edITorPrint: 1.2 million; avg. 2 stories/issueDigital: 11.4 million monthly uniques*; avg. 3-4 posts/week¬ “I consider myself a personal shopper: an expert in the field with a deep understanding and knowledge of a brand’s history and innovation. I always look at brands or products with an editorial angle; I don’t want something that will be a one-minute social media buzz.”

VoguePrint

ceLIa eLLenBerg, BeauTy dIrecTor circulation: 1.2 million; avg. 6 stories/issue¬ “News happens at lightning speed, and being on a monthly production cycle means you’re not able to capitalize on those kinds of breaking stories. But that leaves an exciting opportunity for us be better at storytelling, and to find the best voices to relay those messages alongside the most arresting photography in the world.”

Digital

caTherIne pIercy, BeauTy dIrecTor reach: 5.5 million monthly uniques*; avg. 8 posts/day ¬ “How do we move the conversation forward on beauty? That’s what we’re asking ourselves on a daily basis. There’s something wrapped up in beauty that’s connected to the cultural Zeitgeist in a uniquely personal way. It has its own emotional pulse. We’re always trying to observe that, turn it over and have fun with it, too.”

*SOuRCE: comscore (u.s. multiplatform average monthly unique visitors for jan.-dec. 2016)

PeoPle Print anD Digital

andrea LavInThaL, STyLe and BeauTy dIrecTor circulation: 3.5 million; 2-4 stories/issue plus people beauty special 4-7 pages/monthDigital: 33.5 million monthly uniques*; 6-12 stories/day¬ “We have unparalleled access to the biggest stars in Hollywood and their equally A-list glam squads. Our coverage is 360 degrees, hitting readers with inspiration, guidance and expert advice, on all platforms.”

PeoPle en esPañolPrint anD Digital

urSuLa carranza, FaShIon and BeauTy dIrecTor circulation: 550,000; avg. 5 stories/issuereach: 1.2 million monthly uniques*; avg. 6 posts/day¬ “Latinas overindex on the consumption of beauty products, yet there is a surprising lack of stories that address her struggles and successes. Covering their issues is our top priority. Another plus is the close relationship we maintain with our community’s top celebrities.”

real simPle, health Print anD Digital

heaTher muIr maFFeI, BeauTy dIrecTorReal Simple: circulation: 2 million; 5-6 stories/issuereach: 7.7 million monthly uniques*; 1-2 stories/day¬ “In a celebrity-obsessed, Instagram-filtered world, Real Simple celebrates real women and their everyday lives. We produce content that saves women time, energy and money and encourages individuality. We help cut through the overwhelming choices of the beauty aisles, acting as a cheat sheet to make purchasing decisions easier.”

women’s healthPrint anD Digital

maura Lynch, BeauTy and LIFeSTyLe dIrecTorcirculation: 1.5 million; avg. 12 stories/issueDigital: 7.2 million monthly uniques*; avg. 20 stories/month¬ “Our content is centered around wellness. Our reader is invested in taking care of herself—inside and out. For this reason, we dig deep to explain how a beauty product, routine or trend affects her physical and emotional self, and we never skimp on the details or the science.”

dIgITaL onLy

Byrdie Beauty

FaITh xue, edITorIaL dIrecTorreach: 1.8 million monthly uniques*; avg. 10-14 posts/day ¬ “Our reader wants to know the magic product that will cure her acne, but she’s also interested in what she can eat (and avoid) to keep her skin clear; beauty from the inside out.”

fashionista.Com

STephanIe SaLTzman, BeauTy edITorreach: 1.2 million monthly uniques*; avg. 2-6 posts/day¬ “We focus heavily on the influencer space, cult brands that rose to fame on Instagram, and out-there beauty trends that gain traction on social media.”


THE U.S. AT A GLANCEAccording to NPD’s fragranceconsumer survey, Scentiments, close to 90 percent of surveyors use more than one fragrance. Here, the 2016 top sellers in the U.S.

Dior Poison Girl Eau de Toilette

THE NEXT WAVERounding up some significantspring launches.

Bulgari Rose Goldea

Sisley Paris Izia Eau de Parfum

$115/3.4 oz.

$98/3.0 oz.

$155/3.0 oz.

$220/3.4 oz.

Tory Burch Love RelentlesslyEau de Parfum

Jimmy Choo l’Eau

Carolina Herrera Good GirlEau de Parfum

$115/2.7 oz.

$98/3.0 oz.

L’Occitane Terre de Lumière

$325/3.4 oz.

Ex Nihilo Devil TenderEau de Parfum

GLOBAL RETAIL FRAGRANCE SALESIn billions of U.S. dollars

10

20

0

2010 2015 2016*

World

Total

USA

*Forecasted dataSource: Euromonitor

$13.7B

$21.7B

$18.5B

$27.4B

$18.7B

MassMarket

$1.3B

$5.4B

$1.1B $1.1B

$6.9B

TOP 5 GLOBAL FRAGRANCE MARKETS IN 2016* In billions of U.S. dollars

USA BRA SAU U.K. GER

$8B

$5.8B

$2.6B $2.6B $2.5B

+30% +3%

TOP 10 PREFERREDFRAGRANCE ATTRIBUTES

$92 3.4 oz.

TOP 3 MEN’SFRAGRANCES OF 2016

1. Giorgio Armani AcquaDi Gio Pour Homme

2. Chanel Bleu de ChanelEau de Toilette

3. Dior SauvageEau de Toilette $89 3.4 oz.

$85 3.4 oz.

TOP 3 WOMEN’SFRAGRANCES OF 2016

1. Chanel CocoMademoiselleEau de Parfum

2. Chanel ChanceEau de Parfum

3. Philosophy AmazingGrace Eau de Toilette $48 2.0 oz.

$124 3.4 oz.

$124 3.4 oz.

$100/3.4 oz.

Source: Mintel Group Ltd.

Long-lasting

Fresh

Light

Clean

Floral

Sweet

Fruity

Earthy

Strong

Spicy

17%

16%

15%

15%

6%

6%

5%

5%

4%

3%

10

20

30

0

$6.6B

$28.7B

PrestigeMarket

$35.4B $45.9B $47.4B

$122

$132

$55

$108

$85

TOP 5 LAUNCHES OF 2016

1. Yves Saint Laurent Mon Paris

Source: NPD

3.0 oz.

2. Chanel No 5. l’Eau3.4 oz.

3. Coach Eau de Parfum1.0 oz.

4. Michael Kors WonderlustEau de Parfum

3.4 oz.

5. Montblanc Legend SpiritEau de Toilette

3.3 oz.

34 wwd beauty inc Infographics by carlos monteiro

Fragrance in FocusPrestige fragrance sales continue to grow globally, while the mass category

remains challenged. Compiled by LayLa ILchI

The sTaT depT.

STAT DEPT.indd 1 2/8/17 5:53 PM

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