t

THE COMPARISON OF A SELF-INSTRUCTIONAL PROGRAM

WITH CONVENTIONAL TEACHING FOR CONSUMER

EDUCATION IN MEN'S FASHION

by

GAIL CARRUTH GRAY, B.S. in H.E.

A THESIS

IN

CLOTHING AND TEXTILES

Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of Texas Tech University in

Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for

the Degree of

MASTER OF SCIENCE IN HOME ECONOMICS

Approved

Accepted

August, 1971

Ml'

: AB[\^(^IS

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

I am deeply indebted to Dr. Norma Walker, chairman of

my committee, for her continual guidance and encouragement

throughout the preparation of this thesis and to Dr. Maynette

Williams for her helpful criticism. I am grateful to the

students involved in the testing for their time and support.

11

TABLE OF CONTENTS

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS ii

LIST OF TABLES V

I. INTRODUCTION 1

Purpose of the Study 4

Hypotheses 5

Scope and Limitations 5

Assumptions 6

Definitions of Terms 6

II. REVIEW OF LITERATURE 9

Consumer Education in Home Economics 9

Consumer Education and Government 10

Consumer Education for the Low Income Group . 12

Consumer Education in Schools 12

Consumer Education in Clothing and Textiles . 15

Saving and Spending Patterns of Teenagers . . 17

Men's Fashion Changes 18

History of Programmed Instruction 20

Programmed Instruction 21

Learning Packages 24

III. METHODS AND PROCEDURES 26

Statement of Program Objectives 26

Selection of the Self-Instructional Technique 27

1 1 1

Development of Programmed Instruction 28

Refinement of Instrument 29

Selection of the Sample 30

Testing the Program 30

Analysis of Data 32

IV. FINDINGS AND INTERPRETATIONS 33

Background of the Sample 33

Findings and Conclusions Related to the

Hypotheses 39

Student Reactions to the Men's Fashion

Program 43

V. SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS 47

Summary 4 7

Conclusions 48

Recommendations for Further Study 49

LIST OF REFERENCES 51

APPENDIX 55

A. A BOOKLET OF PROGRAMMED INSTRUCTION 56

B. CRITERION EXAMINATION 9 6

C. BACKGROUND INFORMATION 101

D. STUDENT RATING OF THE MEN'S FASHION PROGRAM . . 103

IV

LIST OF TABLES

Table Page

1. 24ale and Female Clothing Expenditures by Age Group for 19 60-61 15

2. Age and Grade Level of 22 Control and 24 Experimental Students 34

3. Distribution by Education Levels of Students' Fathers 36

4. Distribution of Socioeconomic Levels of Students for Control, Experimental, and Total Sample 38

5. Distribution of Scores on Pretest and Posttest for Control and Experimental Groups 40

6. Standard Deviations, F-Ratios, and Values of t for Control and Experimental Groups on Pretest and Posttest 41

7. Rating by 22 Control and 24 Experimental Students of Men's Fashion Program . 4 4

8. Rating by 22 Control and 24 Experimental Students of Selected Method of Learning . . . . 45

9. Scores of 22 Control and 24 Experimental Students on Pretest and Posttest 4 6

CHAPTER I

INTRODUCTION

In 19 66, American teenagers spent an estimated $18

billion. Youth Research Institute projections indicated

that the rate would be $30 billion by 1970. They also stated

that most of that amount was spent in a haphazard manner that

advertises the need for our youth to learn about wise pur­

chasing and the advantages of regular saving. YRI surveys

showed that young consumers received very little long-range

satisfaction from the billions they spent and many reported

that they bought things they did not even need or really

V7ant. They were acquiring spending habits that would be

treacherous in the days when they would be responsible for

the expenditure of family income (1:34).

Inability to cope with finances is one of the major

factors in the staggering divorce rate among teenage mar­

riages. Already, 40 percent of all brides are teenagers and

one of every six teenage wives has two or more children (2:

28). Sociologists tell us that the way they spend their

money will be a factor in determining the success or the

failure of teen marriages. Economists say that the way young

families spend their money will determine whether our national

life will be fashioned after the excellent or the commonplace

(2:24).

Teenagers provide a huge market for manufacturers. They

have money to spend and they have the power to influence

their families in making purchases for the entire household.

It is estimated by market specialists that the greatest

concentration of spending power is in households in which

the head is between 35 and 54 years of age, the time when

teenage children are present in the greatest number and dur­

ing the period of peak income. Such households account for

more than half of all the spending power of United States

consumers (3:26, 45).

Young consumers can make or break the popularity of a

product. Consequently, they need to be made aware of the

responsibility of this influence. They certainly affect

clothing styles with the American emphasis upon youthful-

ness in clothing (3:24).

Expenditures for clothing and textile products involve

a major portion of the family budget. Even though there is

a general increase in clothing expenditures from infancy to

maturity for an average American family member, tiie peak

occurs in the late teens and early twenties (4:14). Expendi­

tures from three income levels for a family of four were

reported in the spring of 19 67. A boy of thirteen was noted

as having wardrobe replacement costs of $132 per year from

the lower income level of $4,8 62; $171 per year from the

moderate income level of $7,221; and $227 per year from the

higher income level of $10,533 (5:14-15).

Many teenagers recognize the influence of their peers

upon their spending but few are aware of the influences of

television and other advertising media even though it is

often directed especially to them and their spending. Edu­

cators need to make sure that consumers are made alert to

the many influences of advertising and that they are ac­

quainted with the different types (6). Because of the fick­

leness of fashion, information presented yesterday often

does not apply to today's goods. Consumer education classes

are providing the ideal framework for choosing specific

clothing and textile items. Based on his values and re­

sources available, today's consumer will be able to make

choices which will ultimately provide greater satisfaction.

Men have had much more reason than women to revolt

against the fashion of the year-around, dark, heavy wool

suit and stiff shoes. Fashions have come a long way since

1939 when Elizabeth Hawes (7) made her plea for comfortable

clothing for men. Men's fashion buyers now go to markets

across the nation about four times a year and bring home the

latest season's fashion. Therefore, the man of the 1970's

has a much different problem. He must be an educated con­

sumer to choose from the wide range of quality and price.

The myriad selections of colors, prints, fabrics, and styles

demand that a man choose his wardrobe carefully. Consumer

education in men's fashion is now a necessity.

Purpose of the Study

The first major purpose of this study was to develop a

self-instructional unit in consumer education for men's

fashion that would be intriguing enough to challenge the

teenage mind and imagination. Teachers in secondary class­

rooms are constantly confronted with the need for new, ex­

citing materials in which to involve the teenager who has

fluctuating moods of extremes in energy, enthusiasm, and

boredom.

The second purpose of this study was to provide new

material for the long neglected area of male interest. For

too long, home economics has been involved in teaching only

the female homemaker. Consumer Education has opened the

doors of home economics to the male, but after long years of

being female oriented, educators often just stand in awe of

the new challenge before them. Home economics educators are

willing to teach the young man, but never before has there

been such a need for co-educational materials.

Secondary schools across the nation are establishing

courses in their standard curricula that are open to both

boys and girls or to boys alone. Boys are receiving training

to fulfill their roles as homemakers, whether in the bachelor

apartment or as the head of a home. Their enthusiasm is al­

most overv/helming. The need for consumer education in ail

areas of selection, buying, use, care, and soiling has been

established.

The third purpose was to determine the difference be­

tween the knowledge attained through the programmed instruc­

tion and through regular classroom instruction. Students

were also given a chance to rate the method of teaching used

in the group so that the popularity of programmed learning

could be rated as contrasted with classroom teaching.

Hypotheses

The hypotheses to be tested in this study were:

1. There will be a significant difference in the mean

scores of the pretest and posttest of the students in the

control group.

2. There will be a significant difference in the mean

scores of the pretest and posttest of the students in the

experimental group.

3. There will be a significant difference between mean

scores in the posttest for the control group and the experi­

mental group.

Scope and Limitations

The study was limited to testing in a small, parochial

high school in Lubbock County, Texas. The sample was small

due to the number and size of classes available for testing.

Included in tlie population were two homemaking classes of

girls, one of Homemaking I and one of Homemaking II, a Home

Engineering class of boys, and a class of study hall boys.

Thus^ the findings and conclusions are applicable only to

the group tested.

Assumptions

The study was based on the following assumptions:

1. Little precise knowledge about men's fashion and

fashion buying is actually possessed by the average teenage

consumer.

2. Consumer information can help the teenager know how

to look for quality and how to do comparative shopping.

3. Teenagers can make better use of their resources by

improving consumer practices.

4. A consumer education program can provide teenagers

with knowledge and skills needed in making better use of

their resources.

Definitions of Terms

Consumer Education—"the preparation of the individual in

the skills, concepts, and understandings that are re­

quired for everyday living to achieve, within the frame­

work of his own values, maximum satisfaction and utili­

zation of his resources" (8).

Consumer--a person who uses goods and services to satisfy his

wants and needs.

Consumer Movement--the development of great concern among

consumers which has and is resulting in the passing of

laws for their protection, in the development of agen­

cies especially for enforcement of new policies and

for research, and in reforms in educational curricula.

Conventional Lecture-Demonstration Method—a method which

includes teacher lectures, discussions, textbook, and

possibly demonstrations in regular classroom meetings.

Prograramed Instruction—education material that requires the

student to focus on a small amount of material, respond

to a stimulus, receive immediate knowledge of the re­

sults, and work at his own rate. It is a self-

instruction learning procedure.

Programmer—the person developing and writing a program.

Program—the learning instructions or content of the pro­

grammed text that guides the student through frames

toward mastery of a subject (9:8).

Frame—single unit of content of each sequential step in a

program considered by the student (9:8).

Linear Program--"the student is presented with an ordered

sequence of frames, must construct a response, and then

receives feedback of the correct response; synonymous

with Skinnerian program, sequential program, and con­

structed response program" (9:8).

Branching Program—"the student's sequence of exposure to

the program content is determined by his response which

is chosen from a multiple-choice option; synonymous v;ith

multiple-choice and intrinsic program" (9:9).

8

Constructed Response—the student is required to recall and

construct a written response (10:19, 51).

Overt Response--an observable oral or written response (9:9).

Covert Response—an unv/ritten, mental response (ll:xi).

Feedback—process of conveying to the student his results.

Reinforcement--the rewarding experience derived from gaining

immediate knowledge of success in responding to a frame.

Criterion Examination—an examination given to the student

as the pretest and also after the completion of the

program as a posttest so that the two scores can be

compared to determine how much he has learned.

Error—the incorrect or non-appropriate response to a frame

(9:9) .

Cue—giving a strong suggestion to prompt the correct

response.

Target Population—population for whom the program is designed

Teenage Men's Fashions--clothing being worn during the cur­

rent period that is generally accepted by the majority

of that age group.

Levels of Significance

p<.10 = trend

p<.05 = significant

p<.01 = highly significant

p<.001 = very highly significant

CHAPTER II

REVIEW OF LITERATURE

Consumer Education in Home Economics

Home economics as an academic discipline was organized

at the first Lake Placid Conference on Homemaking in 1899.

In less than five years after the founding of the American

Home Economics Association in 1908, some of its members were

beginning to challenge contemporary course content. Informal

consumer education, based on experience, advice, and common

sense, has been a part of all living from the establishment

of the first family. Before 19 29, there were few college-

oriented studies for consumers. Authors from widely varying

backgrounds and disciplines concluded that United States edu­

cation should include preparation of young people to use

wisely that which they were being prepared to earn (12:391).

The Great Depression opened the door for formal training

in consumer education. By 1949, hundreds of consumer educa­

tion courses were established. The needs of individuals and

families became important. Major problems which confronted

the teacher were the vast scope of new concern and the dirth

of information on which to base a course of study (12:392).

By 19 55, consumer education had reached the point where

it was included in books of various fields; hov;evcr, few

college courses were being taught in consumer education.

10

This was probably due to the persistent confusion about its

academic parental responsibility (math, home economics,

social studies, English). By 19 66, the importance of con­

sumer education was recognized to the extent that it was

stated, "any teacher lucky enough to connect the deep, per­

sonal interests of students as consumers to his subject

material will produce better understandings of his subject"

(12:393-94).

Consumer Education and Government

Consumer education is not a new activity for the federal

government. For more than 40 years through its 3,100 Exten­

sion Service Offices, the focus was aimed at improving farm­

ing and homemaking skills with emphasis on the problems of

budgeting, shopping, and borrowing (13:69-70). In 1962,

President Kennedy directed his Council of Economic Advisers

to organize the Consumer Advisory Council giving the consumer

a voice at the highest level of government for the first time

(14:7). Extension into the formal school program coincided

with the establishment in 19 64 of the President's Committee

on Consumer Interests and the Office of Special Assistant to

the President for Consumer Affairs. Presidents Kennedy and

Johnson worked with these. Esther Peterson and her successor,

Betty Furness, used the prestige of office to stimulate other

groups both inside and outside the government to take action

(13:70-71).

11

In April, 1969, President Nixon appointed I4rs. Virginia

Knauer to head up the Office of Consumer Affairs. To bring

this office into public view, the consumer affairs represen­

tative was selected to participate in White House sessions on

domestic affairs.

Since the turn of the century, the American economy has

undergone some significant changes. Two changes have af­

fected our consumption pattern: (1) the transformation from

a predominantly agricultural nation to a predominantly indus­

trialized, urbanized one; and (2) the great improvement in

the living standard of most American families. Urban con­

sumers spend more money on services and proportionately less

money on goods than rural consumers do. Above average in­

comes allow proportionately more to be spent for luxuries

because a smaller percentage is required for necessities.

In addition, research by private enterprise and government

has resulted in new and improved products. Thus, the need

for consiomer education today is well established (14:7).

The challenge to reach as many individuals as possible

through consumer education was given to home economists in

19 68 with the passing of an amendment to the Vocational Edu­

cation Act of 19 63. Many Congressmen believed that home

economists could assist best the people of low economic levels,

the physically and mentally handicapped, and the couples of

newly established households. Representative Pucinski of

Illinois worked for legislative support because he believed

12

that programs could be expanded to make a significant contri­

bution toward preparing women for the dual role of homemaker

and wage earner (16:771). He said:

. . . it would seem to me that we ought to give home economics a high priority. . . . I think that we ought to teach the young woman not only some­thing about her responsibilities as a mother and a homemaker, but also prepare her for the eventu­ality that she will become one of the 50 percent of mothers who are going to have to go (out) and earn a living for her family. (16:771-72)

Consumer Education for the Low Income Group

Early in 19 65, Congress passed the Economic Opportunity

Act and President Johnson declared "all out war on poverty."

It touched the lives of many people across the nation (17:16).

The members of the Home Management Training Center whose

families had very low incomes were an example. The women were

between the ages of 18 and 45. They showed definite interest

for information on the better use of the food and clothing

dollar, and for children's allowance, as well as contracts,

credit, budgeting, loans, and interest rates (18:67-68).

Consumer Education in Schools

Betty Furness, President's Special Assistant for Con­

sumer Affairs during the Johnson Administration, stated her

beliefs with vigorous convictions:

I believe in taking reading, writing, and arithmetic right to the marketplace--in teaching consumer edu­cation from kindergarten to university. It should be made a part of the school curricula either on an elec­tive or on a mandatory basis, and it should be inter­disciplinary. Mathematics could be related to figur­ing interest rates and installment credit charges.

13

English could include a better comprehension of mort­gage transactions, warranties, and sales contracts. . . . For too long, we have taught young people how to earn money without teaching them hov7 to spend it. . . . The home economics teacher should give more emphasis to consumer education, rather than consumer information. Specific information in this area is fine, but it should be tied in to develop knowledge of marketplace activity. The home economist in the classroom should go beyond the traditional skills to develop intelligent consumer decision making. Many teachers of home economics are doing this. All should do it. (19:72)

In the 19 60's, there was so much interest in consumer

education that some industries, advertisers, and retail estab­

lishments became fearful that consumer education would harm

their interests. The New York State Education Department was

one of the first states to completely plan a course in con­

sumer education emphasizing money management. The representa­

tives were chosen from fourteen concerned areas of profes­

sional fields and socioeconomic levels. Their project did

much to enlighten merchants and industrialists that an in­

formed citizenry would more readily reject the appeal of the

fraudulent operator and would not abuse credit privileges.

Thus, both the consumer and businessman have profited (20:

76-78).

The integrated consumer education of past curricula is

gone. To meet the demands of today, consumer education has

been expanded in scope and made visible as part of home eco­

nomics education programs for both in-school youth and

adults. Comprehensive courses should include the use of

income and other resources. Consumer decisions should be

14

made in the context of goals and values. Money is a personal

and family resource, a tool in achieving a satisfactory life

(16:773).

The consumer education program at Lincoln High School

in Yonkers, New York (19 68) has been so successful that it

has received nationwide publicity as a true example of what

consumer education really is. Lincoln High offers a three-

pronged program. A year's elective course in consumer

education is open to all students. A series of highly

practical assemblies are presented to all students in which

experts in business and government deal with such subjects

as car buying, health care, safety, and consumer frauds. In

addition, consumer education is integrated throughout the

entire curricula from seventh grade on up. Every teacher is

wrapped up in integrating consumer education with his sub­

ject. The general comments from students sound as if they

are doing their job well: "Consumer education makes us more

aware." "I saved money on a coat. . . . " "Consumer educa­

tion taught me to waste less." Could not the whole country

profit from that example (21:2-4)?

Another such course in Illinois, but only a week long,

was presented by Bernard Duffy and his associates who called

these people "teenage tycoons." They discussed everyday con­

sumer problems which are simply not found in textbooks with

an experimental group of 75 seniors (22:12-14).

15

Consumer Education in Clothing and Textiles

Although the 18 to 24 year old group had the highest

clothing expenditures in 1968, their average was only

slightly higher than those at age 16 to 17. Persons in both

age groups tend toward fashion consciousness. They like to

have special clothes for dates and school activities and

often have more money to spend on clothing than younger teen­

agers because of full-time or part-time jobs. Usually a

woman spends more for clothing than a man at all ages. Girls

spend 30 percent more at ages 12 to 15, 42 percent more at

ages 16 to 17, and 38 percent more at ages 18 to 24. After

age 18, these differences narrow as age increases (see

Table 1) .

TABLE 1

MALE AND FEMALE CLOTHING EXPENDITURES BY AGE GROUP FOR 1960-61

Age Female Expenditures Male Expenditures

12-15 $186.99 $144.02

16-17 246.77 173.32

18-24 255.17 184.52

Source: Monthly Labor Review, Bureau of Labor Statis­tics (4:14-15).

Clothing expenditures vary among age groups due to

social and physical activities and changes in preferences and

16

customs. For example, the 16- and 17-year-old girl's pur­

chases reflect the style preference of proportionately more

separates and less dresses than other women. Footwear

expenditures were found to be highest for 12- to 17-year-olds,

while spending for jackets, sweaters, trousers, shorts and

special sport clothing, and hosiery was greatest at ages 16

to 17. Men at ages 18 to 24 spent more than other men on

coats, sports coats, shirts, and jewelry (4:15, 17).

Teenagers spend their money in many different ways.

More comprehensive surveys in 1966 of teenagers' average

spending per week for clothing indicated that boys aged 13

to 15 spend $.55 of their weekly $5.0 5 average income, girls

aged 13 to 15 $.8 5 of their $S.45 avf ragp. incom>' .. boys ag^d

16 to 19 $2.80 of their $17.05 average income, and girls aged

16 to 19 $3.50 of their $17.90 average income (1:10). An­

other study (3:26) of teenagers' spending showed that boys

spent 7 percent of their dollar for clothing while girls spent

19 percent for clothing and jewelry.

In 19 68, the New York State Commerce Department staged

teenage consumer assemblies in junior high schools in six

cities throughout the state. Each assembly was preceded by

a survey of the student body to determine how the students

spent their money, where and what they bought, and v.'hether

they had jobs. Even though the surveys were in an incom­

plete stage, clothing and personal care products ranl ed high

17

on their shopping lists. The amounts spent were found to

vary from one neighborhood to another. In one study, the

most recent big purchase—generally clothing—averaged $16

for boys and $13 for girls. The surveys suggested that boys

knew their brands better than girls because they tended to

shop when the need arose while girls shopped sales. Most of

the youngsters said they shopped with their parents but

bought what they v/anted. Many sought advice from friends or

consumer guidance publications (23:170-71).

Saving and Spending Patterns of Teenagers

Researchers have shown much interest in how teenagers

use their money because of the need to know how to teach con­

sumer education. Weekly allowances are almost invariably

advocated by money-management experts for children and young

people so that they will be responsible for a fixed sum.

They believe this will teach youngsters to budget fixed ex­

penses, make wise choices, think of money in terms of the

value of the things it will buy, realize the importance of

careful shopping, and save tov;ard future goals (1:34).

One study indicated that teenagers not only earn their

own money but also make some attempt to save a portion of

their earnings. It was reported that teenagers not only save

a portion of what they earn but also are inclined to be con­

servative in their spending practices. He points out that

this effort to save may grow out of the observation of the

18

misuse of credit at home and the failure to save (24:739).

The Phelan and Schvaneveldt (25:109) study of the "Spending

and Saving Patterns of Adolescent Siblings" indicated that

adolescents who planned for saving until their goal was

reached had more favorable spending and saving patterns,

regardless of their main source of spending money.

Teenagers are becoming aware of their responsibility

through consumer education. As an example, a Nebraska FHA

member gave this advice in an editorial which appeared in the

Nebraska FHA newsletter: "We as youth must do three things

about money management: establish our values; develop our

attitudes; take on responsibility" (26:49).

Men's Fashion Changes

Men's fashions are always changing. Often they change

in cycles. A fashion idea comes into popularity, rises to

a peak, wanes, passes out of the picture, and then returns

at some later date in a refined form. Variety itself might

be reason enough for change but the most important aspect

of fashion is that it improve. The most radically influen­

tial of all fashion molders today is the scientist. In the

twentieth century, the greatest strides in fashions have

been made in laboratories where new fabrics have been devel­

oped with such properties as being wrinkle resistant, v;atcr

and soil resistant, stretchable, lightweight, and permanently

pressed. These properties have brought change especially in

19

comfort to men's fashions. Their clothes are no longer

unduly heavy but are now lightweight, wrinkle resistant,

and hold the creases that are a part of the design (27:7-9).

Following the fall of the monarchy in France, men's fashions changed more markedly than women's, never again attaining their old color and magnificence

^ except as they were fostered at Napoleon's court.

(28:251)

By 1800, the Industrial Revolution's mass production and

standardization had brought about changes which sacrificed

variety in design and individual fitting. Much of the mer­

chandise produced during the latter half of the nineteenth

century was shoddy. Colors were often conservative during

the eighteenth century with many men's garments being grayish

blue, aqua, pearl and steel gray, brown, plum, black., or

green (28:251-64). Color and pattern popularity varied with

the cycle until major changes were influenced by the English-

inspired Mod clothes of the 1960's. They were brilliantly

colored and elaborately styled. While the Mod trend did not

last, it left an impact on the American fashion world. To­

day, millions of men of all ages are enjoying fashions with

a new and fresher expression. Colors, patterns, and tex­

tures are unlimited (29:2).

In the 1960's, fashions began to express the quick

changes of society. Continental fashions were brought into

sharp focus v/ith the sources for ideas in men's fashions

becoming international. The wardrobe of the well-dressed

20

man began to grow and change faster than in the past to keep

pace with a newer, faster present (30:xi, xix).

Previously only a limited supply of knits for men was

imported from France and Italy (31:90) but the fabric of the

seventies is knit (32:154). American manufacturers, some­

times the last to latch on to a new fashion concept, and

designers began to use knits in many areas of men's fashions

(31:90). Suede, hide, and fur are for everything in a man's

closet, showing their enjoyment of wearing soft garments

(33:115). Black satin in a soft, matte finish is something

new in evening wear (34:109).

Shirts are designed for many new appearances but those

for the seventies are often silk, printed, or ruffled (35:51)

Shoes are wider because of the tapered, flared slacks. The

new aspect of unlimited color and pattern for men is also

seen in their footwear (36:43).

The man of the 19 70's is caught up in a fashion revolu­

tion. Uninhibited mixing of styles, patterns, and colors

can produce a freakish look that seldom pleases either the

wearer or the viev/er. A young man must know how to select

and wear clothes so that they create his best "total look"

of fashion (29:2).

History of Programmed Instruction

In 1912, E. L. Thorndike, the eminent educational psy­

chologist, clearly expressed the need for a nev; educational

21

technology and described what is now called programmed in­

struction. Today's procedures were initiated by other

psychologists who did not use Thorndike's blueprint. In

1915, Professor Sidney L. Pressey of Ohio State University

first used a teaching machine, a mechanical device designed

to present a self-instructional program to a student.

During World War II, the programs were called "phase

checks" but the student first developed his skill by using

the phase check. He later demonstrated his skills in the

absence of the phase check.

In 1954, Professor B. F. Skinner of Harvard University

published an article that provided the current impetus to

programmed instruction. He combined the technique of pro­

viding explicit knowledge of results for every response

with techniques designed to shape behaviors already under

verbal control (37:14-15).

Programmed Instruction

Two distinctive forms of programming dominate at this

time: (1) the linear or extrinsic program, and (2) the

branching or intrinsic. The linear program presents the

subject matter in sequential order regardless of individual

differences due to maturation, intelligence, and experience,

or other such factors. It is the assumption that the learner

is a receptive mechanism for whom associative connections

become formal so as to reflect experience. B. F. Skinner,

22

advocate of extrinsic programming, established these main

characteristics of programmed instruction: (1) breaking the

siibject matter into small units of instruction; (2) requir­

ing the student to make an overt response for each step or

frame; (3) reinforcing the student's response; and (4) allow­

ing the student to work at a self-determined pace. A major­

ity of programmed instruction units now available for use

appear to have been written using the linear approach (38:

2, 4) .

Jacobs, Maier, and Stolurow (37:10-11) recommend these

steps for developing a program:

1. Specify goals and objectives of the program.

2. Write the frames in logical order and in small

units. Each frame should require a response.

3. Test the program and then, based on the students'

comments and errors, revise it.

4. Validate the program before it is released for \

general school use. Validation determines how much students

learn from the program and is usually done by a standard test

or a test especially constructed for the purpose. Student

reactions to the program should be reported as well as their

scores. The relationships among academic ability, learning

scores, learning times, and student attitudes are also deter­

mined (37:10-11). Fry (10:154) reports the teachings of J. c;. Holland on

23

making the student response as meaningful as possible. It

is essential that the response indicate an understanding of

the item. He felt that where trivial words were omitted

for the student to fill in, the question might be answered

without any reference to the teaching material. A programmer

should force the student to use the key words in the frame.

Leaving ambiguous and difficult phrases often increases the

error rate.

N. A. Crowder developed the branching program. Each

student determines the sequence of frames by his responses

to the multiple-choice questions contained in the frames.

If the student chooses the correct response, he is directed

to another page that contains new information. If he chooses

the incorrect response, he is shov/n why this response is

incorrect and is referred back to the original material for

another chance to choose the correct response. All students

do not proceed through the program in the same sequence of

frames which is different from the method used in linear pro­

gramming (39:10). The branching program makes allowances

for individual differences or needs. The slov/er learner goes

through more steps, broken into smaller bits, than one who

has the ability to learn faster. It is assumed that the

learner is a self-organizing mechanism who selects and ex­

tracts information from his environment (38:2).

Programmed materials have advantages over other type;: of

24

instruction. They are more effective because they typically

teach the same amount of material as other methods in less

time. The teacher has more time available for individual

instruction and can organize more effectively the educational

experiences around the needs and interests of each individual

student. Students can correct their own work because they

receive immediate knowledge of the results (37:2)

Studies have shown that individuals differ markedly in

the amount of time they take to complete a program due to

the different rates of learning and reading. Individuals

also differ markedly in the amount learned from the program,

with brighter students usually learning more. Programs may

generally be more effective when used by teachers; however,

they can be used alone in situations with homebound, isolated,

or hospitalized students (37:10, 19).

Learning Packages

A learning package is a self-instructional unit that con­

tains three to five self-paced lessons which are developed

for learning one basic concept or idea. The student learns

in his own style by selecting from alternative resource

materials and activities. Built into the package is a pre­

test designed to diagnose the learner's status in relation

to the concept and to assist the student in selecting mate­

rials and experiences for the areas of greatest need with

reference to the objectives sought. Through the use of

25

learning packages, both the learner and the teacher function

more effectively in their respective roles: the learner who

has to do the learning does that, and the teacher who is a

facilitator of learning is freed to focus on that task (40:

768-70).

CHAPTER III

METHODS AND PROCEDURES

Statement of Program Objectives

Major objectives were set to be achieved by tliis pro­

gram of instruction in men's fashion. The criterion exam

was developed around these objectives so tliat every area

of emphasis would be tested. The objectives were:

1. To awaken the interest of young men and women in

the fashion revolution and make them aware of the exciting

fashions available for young men today.

2. To learn something of clothing history.

3. To learn the importance of the teenage consumer in

today's market.

4. To learn the factors which cause a garment to vary

in price.

5. To learn to choose clothing wisely for the amount

of money alloted.

6. To learn different styles available.

7. To learn the names of different fashion features in

men's clothing.

8. To learn the major weaves and fabrics used in men's

clothing.

9. To learn to coordinate clothing for the "total look."

10. To learn to coordinate a wardrobe.

26

27

11. To learn how a heavy or slim appearance can be

created through visual illusion.

12. To learn how to judge the fit of a suit.

13. To learn how to use accessories.

14. To learn how to care for the clothing which is now

fashionable.

15. To learn how to prolong the life of a garment

through creative construction.

16. To learn how grooming habits influence one's appear­

ance.

Written from the viewpoint of the student (especially the

male student), these objectives became the focus of a program

of instruction in men's clothing designed to appeal to and

generate enthusiasm from the teenager.

Selection of the Self-Instructional Technique

The objective of choosing a method of self-instruction

was to develop classroom materials that would be most useful

to both teacher and student. Learning packages and programmed

instruction were both considered as possible tools. The inde­

pendence of learning packages given the student by providing

him with the opportunity to choose his ov;n course of study

seemed appealing for secondary students. The programmed in­

struction method is a repetitive way of learning.

The linear method of programmed instruction was chosen

because of the limited classroom time for testing, inability

28

of less mature students to discipline their study, and volume

of details that needed to be covered in teaching the selected

subject material. The program was written using the method

which followed B. F. Skinner's recommendation for program­

ming.

Development of Programmed Instruction

The programmed instruction V7as developed by the author

based primarily upon a booklet published by The Van Heusen

Company called, "What Everyone Should Know About Men's

Fashion" (29). Other sources of information (7, 27, 41, 42,

43, 44) were used to provide supplementary material as well

as information which the programmer believed would benefit

teenagers within the chosen subject matter area. The pro­

grammed instruction was entitled, "What is Your Men's Fashion

I.Q.?" It included four lessons entitled:

1) "The Men's Fashion Revolution"

2) "Styles that Express the Man"

3) "Wardrobe Know-How"

4) "How to Care for Your Investment."

Every objective was carefully covered in the material. At the

end of each lesson, a review section was included to re-

emphasize the major points that were covered in that particular

lesson. This was for the purpose of encouraging the student

to look back through the lesson for information that nec dcd

29

reenforcement. If the student finished both the lesson and

the review, a supplementary assignment was given to further

strengthen the material covered for the day.

Refinement of Instrument

After the programm.ed instruction was completed, a cri­

terion examination was constructed. Multiple-choice and

matching items constituted the 50 question criterion exam.

Each question had a weight of one point, making 50 the

highest possible score (Appendix B).

The instrument was pretested for clarity and ability to

discriminate in the Fall 1970 Home Engineering class. Eigh­

teen male students were given the criterion exam as a pre­

test. Then they were given the program after which the

criterion exam was administered again as the posttest. Revi­

sions and corrections were made as need seemed to indicate

in an effort to eliminate misconceptions and improve clarity,

The level of validity for each question was determined

by the use of the following equations:

N

N Level of Difficulty: P = X 100

t

N = number right r

N = number tried

Those questions which had a coefficient less than .40 v;ore

reworded.

Index of Discrimination: D =

30

U - L N

U = number of correct re­sponses in upper group (top 1/4-1/3)

L = number of correct re­sponses in lower group (lower l/r-1/3)

N = total number in upper and lower groups

Any question which had a coefficient less than .20 was re­

worded .

Selection of the Sample

Forty-nine students from four classes were selected for

testing the program. There were 11 girls in the Homemaking I

class and 14 girls in the Homemaking II class. The spring

semester Home Engineering class was made up of only 7 boys.

Seventeen boys from a study hall class were selected as the

fourth class so that there would be approximately the same

niomber of boys and girls in the testing.

Testing the Program

Each of the four classes was divided into a control and

an experimental group. Students were assigned a number and

then the numbers were drawn and placed into two different

piles so that the students would be randomly selected within

the groups. Group membership was as follows: (1) Homemak­

ing I Girls — 6 experimental, 5 control; (2) Homemaking II

31

Girls--7 experimental, 7 control; (3) Home Engineering Boys—

4 experimental, 3 control; and (4) Study Hall Boys—8 experi­

mental, 9 control. There were 24 students in the control

groups and 25 students in the experimental groups for a total

of 49 students.

All 49 students were given the criterion examination as

a pretest on the Friday before instruction began. The 24

students in the control group were taught by conventional

classroom method of lecture/ discussion, and visual aids.

In addition, three of the four control groups were taken to

a men's shop for a field trip. Due to one period being cut

short, the Homemaking II Control group did not get to par­

ticipate. The 25 students in the experimental group used

the programmed instruction booklet under the supervision of

another teacher. It was noted that the students in the ex­

perimental group had a tendency to finish the lessons faster

than the teacher was able to present the same information to

the control group.

After the fourth lesson, the criterion examination was

administered as a posttest. Each student was also asked to

fill out a sheet "Background Information" (Appendix C) which

was scored by McGuire-White's "Means of Evaluating Socioeco­

nomic Status" (4 5). They were also asked to rate the method

of teaching used for teaching their group using the form

"Student Rating of the Men's Fashion Program" (Appendix D).

32

Analysis of Data

All data analyses were based on the pretest-posttest

information which was hand scored. The scores as well as

socioeconomic information were coded and punched onto com­

puter cards and analyzed by electronic computer. The t-test

was used to determine significant differences between groups.

In addition, F-ratios were computed to determine levels of

significant differences between standard deviations for the

dispersal of scores around the means for each test in each

group.

The Pearson Product Moment Correlation was applied to

determine the levels of significant relationships among the

variables of (1) father's level of education, (2) father's

occupation, (3) family source of income, and (4) pretest

and posttest scores.

CHAPTER IV

FINDINGS AND INTERPRETATIONS

Forty-six students comprised the total sample used in

the final analyses of data. Originally 49 students had been

selected but due to absences, three students were disquali­

fied. One was from the Home Engineering Experimental group

and two were from the Homemaking II Control group. This

left 3 in the Home Engineering Experimental group and 5 in

the Homemaking II Control group. Because of these small

numbers, the boys' groups were combined into experimental

and control. In the final analysis of data, boys' and girls'

control and experim.ental groups were combined so that there

were 22 boys and girls in the control and 24 in tlie experi­

mental.

' Background of the Sample

The mean age of the total sample was 16.2 years with

the mean age of the control group 16.0 years and the mean

age of the experimental group 16.3 years. The mean grade

level for the control group was 10.1 years, for the experi­

mental group 10.5 years, and for the total group 10.3 years.

The control group tended to be slightly younger in both age

and grade level but the difference was not significant. The

ages and grade levels of both the control and experimental

groups are reported in Table 2.

33

34

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35

McGuire-White's "A Means of Evaluating Socioeconomic

Status" (45) was used to determine the status levels of the

groups. The religious preference, educational level, occu­

pation, and family source of income of each student's father

were ranked according to the specifications for the Index of

Value Orientation. From the totals, the distribution of

socioeconomic levels was derived.

Religious Preference.—The groups were very homogenious

in religious preference with only four of the students'

fathers varying from the Church of Christ or Baptist grouping

This is because the population sample was from a Church of

Christ parochial school.

Education Level of Students' Fathers.—The distribution

of the fathers' education levels was similar in both groups.

It was high for both groups with the median of each group

falling within the level of two or more years of college

(see Table 3). The formal education level of the father was

not significantly related to scores for the control group

pretest r = .04, experimental group pretest r = .09, control

group posttest r = .21, or experimental group posttest r =

-.13.

Fathers' Occupation.—The fathers' occupations were

distributed throughout all levels except the lowest. How­

ever, the occupations of the fathers tended to group around

the mean of 11.5. There were 9 occupations in the level

36

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37

weighted 4, 10 in the level weighted 8, 14 in the level

weighted 12, and 8 in the level weighted 16. Only 5 fathers

had occupations of lower than the 16 level. The fathers'

occupation levels were not significantly related to scores

for the control group pretest r = .26, experimental group

pretest r = -.15, control group posttest r = .38, or experi­

mental group posttest r = .26.

Family Source of Income.—Thirty-one of the families'

incomes were from salaries or commissions on a monthly or

yearly basis. Of the other 15, 8 were in the group immedi­

ately above and 7 were in the group immediately below. The

mean level was 12.0, the point at which 31 of the cases fell.

This further emphasized the homogeneity of the background of

the students. The family source of income was not signifi­

cantly related to scores for the control group pretest

r = -.04, experimental group pretest r = -.44, control group

posttest r = .15, or experimental group posttest r = -.02.

Socioeconomic Scores.--The distribution of socioeconomic

scores revealed the median for both, the control and experi­

mental groups fell at the lower middle class (Table 4). The

mean scores were 41.2 for the control group, 39.8 for the

experimental group, and 40.5 for the total group. The experi­

mental group ranked slightly higher socioeconomically by this

measure. The results of the IVO showed that the control and

experimental groups were very homogeneous.

38

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39

Findings and Conclusions Related to the Hypotheses

Hypothesis I.—There will be a significant difference

in the mean scores of the pretest and posttest of the stu­

dents in the control group.

As shown in Table 5, the pretest mean was 33.7 with the

greatest number of scores in the 26 to 30 and 31 to 35 levels

respectively. The posttest mean was 44.7 with the highest

number of scores in the 41 to 4 5 and 4 6 to 50 levels respec­

tively. The maximum score possible was 50. The difference

between the pretest and posttest scores was highly signifi­

cant at the .01 level with t = 9.56. The F-ratio was not

significant in this analysis of the groups when combined.

As can be seen in Table 6, there v;ac a large standard

deviation of 8.50 for the Homemaking I Control group as con­

trasted to a standard deviation of 1.94 for the Homemaking I

Experimental group on the pretest. The F-ratio (1.92) indi­

cated that the variance around the mean was highly signifi­

cant at the .01 level. A possible explanation for this

variance was that the Homemaking I Control group contained

two students of very low achievement levels who made very

low scores on the pretest but made very high scores on the

posttest. The students had been randomly selected for both

the control and experimental groups. Therefore, Hypothesis I

was accepted as stated.

Hypothesis II.—There will be a rignifleant diffei-onco

40

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42

in the mean scores of the pretest and posttest of the stu­

dents in the experimental group.

As shown in Table 5, the pretest mean score was 30.6

with the greatest number of scores falling between 31 and 35.

The posttest mean was 44.5 with the greatest number of scores

betv7een 4 6 and 50. The difference between the pretest and

the posttest scores of the experimental group was highly sig­

nificant at the .01 level with t = 8.29. The F-ratio of

1.34 indicated that the variance around the mean was not

significant. Therefore, Hypothesis II was accepted as stated

Hypothesis III.—There will be a significant difference

between the mean scores in the posttest for the control and

the experim.ental groups.

This hypothesis was not supported. Neither the F-ratio

nor the t-test indicated significant differences. The groups

tested were so small that students had to be grouped together

to form the control and experimental groups. It is believed

that the high homogeneity of the groups may have affected the

outcome. This is supported by studies of Hd;ssenger (46:442),

O'Neill (47:13), and Fichter (48:131) who found that paro­

chial school students ranked higher on achievement and I.Q.

measures than public school students on a nationwide basis.

It is their belief that this was due to more selective admis­

sion standards.

43

Another possibility is that the author of the pro­

grammed instruction booklet and the teacher of the control

group was the same person. It is believed that these two

factors may have had significant influence on the statisti­

cal outcome of the testing. It was, however, concluded that

these students learned equally well from programmed instruc­

tion as from the formal classroom instruction. Therefore,

Hypothesis III was rejected as stated.

Student Reactions to the Men's Fashion Program

The students' ratings of the men's fashion program

tended to be similar for both groups (Table 7). The control

group rated the program "very good" with the "superior" and

"good" ratings both receiving 25. The experimental group

also rated the program "very good" with "good" rated second

over "s uperlor."

The information on consumer education received only

slightly higher rankings from the control group (see Table 7)

than from the experimental group. More of the experimental

students ranked it "very good" while the same number of each

group ranked it "good."

Both the control and experimental groups rated the

method of learning used with their group (Table 8). The

highest number of the control group was "interesting" with

12 votes, while "very interesting" received 9. The votes

of the experimental group were 7 "boring," 9 "interesting,"

44

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o. CM ;:» 0 }H tJ

h ;3 0 > 1

fi fi •H ^

TJ Q) CO ::>

tJ c; fi p u fd Q)

r-i

Ui r-i fd 4J

o EH

CN ro M*

45

and 8 "very interesting." It is interesting to note that

five of the six students in the Homemaking I Experimental

group ranked programmed instruction as "boring." Some dif­

ficulty was noted by the administer of the program because

of the reluctance of these girls to participate. Their im­

provement due to the program was less than that of the

control group (see Table 6). This may have been partially

due to one girl scoring ten points lower on the posttest

than she had on the pretest, thus demonstrating an apparent

unwillingness to cooperate (see Table 9).

TABLE 8

RATING BY 22 CONTROL AND 24 EXPERIMENTAL STUDENTS OF SELECTED METHOD OF LEAPJ JING

Class Control Studen ts

tP p

•H -P (0

tn Q) P u

•H Q) U -P 0 P fi fi

, 1

tn P

•H +J CO (U P Q) fi P

•H

> i P Q) >

Ra t i ngs

Q) Ui p 0 (^ CO CO 0 ^q P f^

Eri 0 o P EH

Expe Studen

tn P

•H •P to

tn Q) P P

•H (U U fi 0 P fi -H

rimental ts '

tn P

•H •P CO Q) p 0) fi p

•H

> i P Q) >

Ratings

0) Ui P 0

a CO CO 0) fi

B* 0 o P E

Boys

Hm I

Hm II

Totals

0

0

0

0 12

0

0

12

22

0

0

8

0

0

0

0

11

24

46

TABLE 9

SCORES OF 22 CONTROL AND 24 EXPERIMENTAL STUDENTS ON PRETEST AND POSTTEST

Group

Boys

Hm I

Hm II

Control Pretest

25 29 36 36 26 33 28 32 34 28 30 28

34 34 16 21 33

37 40 27 40 26

Posttest

36 41 46 43 46 44 42 42 45 43 46 44

46 48 41 43 49

48 50 41 50 46

Exper Pretest

26 26 40 35 29 35 42 30 25 37 36

32 37 34 37 35 34

33 34 31 35 29 39 37

imental Posttest

46 44 49 48 46 47 47 44 39 45 46

35 44 44 48 30 42

46 50 45 48 40 49 50

CHAPTER V

SUMMARY AND CONCLUSIONS

Summary

The purpose of the study was to develop materials in

men's fashion especially for male home economics classes on

the secondary level. The review of literature was conducted

in the major areas of this study: (1) Consumer Education

in Home Economics, (2) Consumer Education and Government,

(3) Consumer Education for Low Income Groups, (4) Consumer

Education in Schools, (5) Consumer Education in Clothing

and Textiles, (6) Saving and Spending Patterns of Teenagers,

(7) Men's Fashion Changes, (8) History of Programmed Instrue-

tion, (9) Programmed Instruction, and (10) Learning Packages.

The instruments developed for this study included: (1)

a programmed instruction booklet on men's fashion, (2) a cri­

terion examination; and (3) a rating scale for the method of

teaching men's fashion. The McGuire-White (45) scale was

used for establishing socioeconomic background.

The students tested were from a small, parochial school.

The sample consisted of 23 male students and 23 female stu­

dents in 4 secondary level classes. The students within the

classes were randomly selected and assigned to either the con­

trol group taught by conventional classroom methods or the

experimental group which used the programmed instruction

47

48

booklet. Background information was also collected on each

student.

Conclusions

There were significant differences between the pretest

and posttest scores of both the control and experimental

groups, thus the first two hypotheses formulated for the

study were supported. The hypothesis that stated that there

would be significant differences betv7een the posttest scores

of the control and the posttest scores of the experimental

groups was not supported.

Using Pearson's Product Moment Correlation, it was

determined that the background of the groups was very homo­

geneous. The background variables as measured were not

significantly related to the results of the testing.

Since it seemed that the students who v/ere following

the programmed instruction were able to cover the men's

fashion consumer information more quickly than it was pos­

sible to present the same information by conventional class­

room methods, it was concluded that the programmed m ethod of

teaching had the advantage of allowing time for more problem

solving learnings. This could provide for further enriching

of the learning experience.

49

Recommendations for Further Study

The recommendations for further study include:

1. Testing the program again in a school where there is

greater heterogeneity in the background of the students since

this would provide a more rigorous test for the difference

between the programmed and conventional methods of presenting

subject matter.

2. Using larger samples so that findings would have

broader application.

3. Refining the programmed instruction booklet by:

(1) reducing the material covered before a response and leav­

ing fewer blanks requiring student response; (2) changing

the form.at of the lessons to give variety in tlie presentation

of information so that boredom would not become a factor for

testing; and (3) adding problems at certain stages to be

solved from the information given in a lesson.

4. Up-dating the men's fashion program to the time of

the next study since fashion changes so rapidly.

5. Teaching of a control group by someone other than

the author of the programmed instruction booklet to remove

the bias of over-study that possibly gives control students

an advantage over experimental.

6. Contrasting experimental and control groups from a

parochial school with experimental and control groups from a

public school to test the effectiveness of the programmed

instruction on other groups.

50

7. That a standardized interest or personality test be

administered as a part of the investigation to measure such

things as attitude or aptitude which may be related to per­

formance.

8. Further testing of this subject matter in programmed

instruction to determine the level of its value in secondary

education.

LIST OF REFERENCES

1. Rand, Lester. "Teenagers and Money." NEA Journal, 56 (May,1967), 34.

2. Peterson, Esther. "Pennywise Teenagers." American Education, 2 (April, 1966), 24-28.

3. Mullin, Dickson S. "Do Your Students Realize How Important the Youth Market Is?" Business Education World, 46 (May, 1966), 24-26.

4. Erickson, Ann. "Clothing the Urban American Family: How Much for Whom?" Monthly Labor Review. United States Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Sta­tistics, 91 (January, 1968), 14-19.

5. Three Standards of Living for an Urban Family of Four Persons. U.S. Department of Labor, Bureau of Labor Statistics Bulletin No. 1570-5, Spring, 1967.

6. Benedict, Mary Ellen Davis. "Teenagers' Use of Money by Sex and Socioeconomic Class." Unpublished masters

7. Hawes, Elizabeth. Men Can Take It. New York: Random House, 1939.

8. "15 Questions People Most Often Ask About Consumer Education." U.S. Office of Consumer Education, GSA DC 69-3437.

9. Lockhoff, Nancy Ford. "Development and Evaluation of a Self-Instructional Program for College Students in a Selected Area of Clothing Construction." Unpublished masters thesis, Texas Technological College, 1969.

10. Fry, Edward B. Teaching Machines and Programmed Instruc-tion. New York: McGraw-Hill Book Company, Inc., 1963".

11. Markle, Susan Meyer. Good Frames and Bad: A Grairjner of Frame Writing. New York: John V iley and Soiis, Inc., 1964.

12. Damon, Edward. "Consumer Education Rides Again." Clear­ing House, 40 (March, 1966), 391-96.

51

52

13. Rouse, A. E. "The Government and Consumer Education." National Association of Secondary School Principals Bulletin, 51 (October, 1967), 69-75.

14. Jelley, Herbert M. "New Developments in Teaching Con­sumer Education." Business Education Forum, 22 (March, 1968), 7-9.

15. Gray, Robert T. "Virginia Knauer: What She Tells the President About Consumers." Nation's Business, 58 (July, 1970), 34-38.

16. Hurt, Mary Lee, and Alexander, Margaret. "New Challenges for Home Economics Educators." Journal of Home Eco­nomics , 61 (December, 1969), 771-75.

17. Holmes, Emma G. "Spending Patterns of Low-Income Fami­lies." Adult Leadership, 14 (May, 1965), 16-18.

18. Rubenfeld, C. "Family Finance and the Low-Income Student." National Association of Secondary School Principals Bulletin, 51 (October, 1967), 67-68.

19. "Betty Furness Speaks on Consumer Education," Forecast for Home Econom.ics, 14 (September, 1968), 72-73.

20. Idleman, Hillis K. "A State Education Department Lends a Hand." National Association of Secondary School Principals Bulletin, 51 (October, 1967), 76-78.

21. Friggens, Paul. "They Teach Teenagers Where Their Money Goes." PTA Magazine, 62 (May, 19 68), 2-4.

22. Duffy, Bernard; Jones, Patricia K.; and Reliant, Dennis E. "Teenage Tycoons Get 'Facts of Life.'" Minnesota Journal of Education, 49 (May, 1969), 12-14.

23. "Learning How To Buy." Business Week, March 30, 19 68, pp. 170-71.

24. Zunich, Michael, and Fults, Anna Carol. "Teenage Eco­nomic Behavior: Earning and Saving." Journal of Home Economics, 59 (November, 1967), 739.

25. Phelan, G. K., and Schvaneveldt, J. D. "Spending and Saving Patterns of Adolescent Siblings." Journal of Home Economics, 61 (February, 1969), 104-09.

26. Reel, Mildred. "FHA'ers are Consumer Conscious." Ar.v?ri-can Vocational Journal, 44 (April, 1969), 49-51.

53

27. Berendt, John. Esquire Fashions for Men. New York: Harper & Row, Publishers, 19 66.

28. Payne, Blanche. History of Costume. New York: Harper & Row, Publishers, 19 65.

29. "What Everyone Should Know About Men's Fashions." New York: Home Economists Service Bureau of The Van Heusen Company (n.d.).

30. Birmingham, Frederic A. Esquire.Fashion Guide for All Occasions. New York: Harper & Row, Publishers, 1962.

31. Kriebel, Charles. "His Bazaar." Harper's Bazaar, December, 19 69, p. 90.

32. "The Most Astounding Look for the Links Since Oddjob

Graced the Greens." Esquire, April, 1970, pp. 151-55

33. "Men in Vogue." Vogue, November 1, 1970, p. 115.

34. "Men in Vogue." Vogue, December, 19 70, p. 109.

35. "Men in vogue*." Vogue, August 1, 1970, p. 51.

36. "Men in Vogue." Vogue, October 15, 1970, p. 43. 37. Jacobs, Paul I.; Maier, Milton H.; and Stolurow,

Lawrence M. A Guide to Evaluating Self-Instructional Programs. New York: Holt, Rinehart and Winston, Inc., 1966.

38. Dannenberg, Raymond Arthur. "The Relationship of Intelli­gence to Reinforcement in Linear Programmed Instruc­tion Unit Dealing with the Free Enterprise System." Unpublished Ph.D. dissertation. University of Michi­gan, 1965.

39. Hughes, John Leo. Programed Instruction for Schools and Industry. Chicago: Science Research Associates, Inc., 1962.

40. Shear, Twyla, and Ray, Elizabeth. "Home Economics Learn­ing Packages." Journal of Home Economics, 61 (De­cember, 1969), 768-70.

41. Erwin, Mabel D., and Kinchen, Liia A. Clothing for Moderns. 3rd ed. New York: The Macmillan Company, 1964.

54

42. "Your Life Style." New York: Men's Fashion Association of America, 1968.

43. "What Every Woman Should Know About Men's Fashions." New York: Home Economists Service Bureau of The Van Heusen Company (n.d.).

44. Stote, Dorothy. Men Too Wear Clothes. New York: Frederick A. Stokes Company, 1939.

45. McGuire, C , and White, G. D. "The Measurement of Social Status." Research paper in Human Development No. 3, Department of Education Psychology, the Uni­versity of Texas, 19 55. (Reproduced in Marilyn Josey Bullock, "Fashion Awareness of Students in Selected Rural and Urban Areas." Unpublished masters thesis, Texas Tech University, 19 70.)

46. Hassenger, Robert. "Essay Review: American Catholics and their Schools." The School Review, 75 (Winter, 1967), 437-60.

47. O'Neill, Michael. "How Good Are Catholic Schools?" National Catholic Educational Association Bulletin, 64 (February, 1968), 11-17.

48. Fichter, Joseph H. Parochial School. Notre Dame: University of Notre Dame Press, 19 58.

APPENDIX

A. A Booklet of Programmed Instruction

B. Criterion Examination

C. Background Information

D. Student Rating of the Men's Fashion Program

55

56

APPENDIX A: A BOOKLET OF PROGRAMMED INSTRUCTION

"WHAT IS YOUR MEN'S FASHION I.Q.?"

Men's fashions—what exciting thoughts this brings to the minds of both young men and young women. What is more important to a young man than looking "just right" in the type of clothes he wears? It has often been said that a woman's most important accessory is a well dressed man, whether he be father or brother, but especially if he is "that special young man"l

It becomes increasingly important for you to know how to be a wise consumer as you have more money to spend and more responsibility for what you buy. That is one of the more important reasons why this programmed instruction has been developed especially for the teenage young man. The second reason is that men's fashion today is such an excit­ing subject to discuss.

Programmed instruction is a fun way of learning. You will first be given a paragraph to read. For example:

1. In 19 66, American teenagers spent at the estimated rate of $18 billion a year. Youth Research Institute predicted that you might spend as much as $30 billion in 1970.

This paragraph will be followed by a sentence or two which contains blanks for you to write the correct word or words. For example:

In 19 66, American teenagers spent about $ billion and probably spent $ billion in 1970.

At any time you may look back to the material you have already covered. With a little practice you v/ill be able to fill in the blank without much rereading. At the end of each of the lessons is a review section over the material you have just covered. It will let you see what the complete lesson was about.

You will need to slide your hand down the left-hand column. The answers for the question you have just resionded to are in the answer column at the beginning of the next paragraph. The eye is often quicker than your ability to write, so be sure to keep the answers covered. Here is an example of how an actual statement will look:

57

18 30

consumer wise buyer

2. Youth Research Institute surveys indicate that teenagers often regret the items they purchase. Good consumer information can act as a guide in helping you to be a wise buyer and actually save the money you work so hard to earn.

Good you to be a

information can help

3. Consumer education can help you to know what to look for as "marks of quality" in the product you are buying. A good reference to consult is a magazine called, "Consumer Re­port . "

The "marks of quality" or actual laboratory results can be found in a magazine called,

In programmed instruction, each person works at his own speed. This is the reason that you will probably not be on the same question or page as the person beside you.

Please follovr your teacher's instruction for procedures from this point.

58

freedom

young

freakish

LESSON 1: THE MEN'S FASHION REVOLUTION

1. Did you know that there is an active "revolution" taking place in our country to­day? Fortunately, this revolution is peace­ful, constructive, even enjoyable. And it is bringing a lot of happiness to a lot of young men because the goal of the "revolutionaries" is freedom—freedom from old fashioned, stereo­typed ideas of v/hat a man should wear.

The goal of the "revolutionaries" is

2. The men's fashion revolution is an impor­tant part of today's new freedom to "do your own thing." And the movement is being sparked largely by the new generation of active young men with spontaneous and creative feelings who want to wear clothes that really express the way they feel.

The men's fashion revolution is being sparked largely by active men.

3. However, without a certain amount of guid­ance, fashion freedom can wind up in confu­sion. A completely uninhibited mixing of styles, patterns and colors can produce a freakish-look that seldom pleases either the wearer or the viewer.

A completely uninhibited mixing of styles, patterns and colors can produce a look.

4. Therefore, a young man should know (and a young woman should appreciate) how to achieve a well-coordinated fashion appearance that is created by all individual fashion items work­ing together. This is known as the "total look" of fashion.

A well-coordinated fashion appearance that is created by all individual fashion items work­ing together is the " " of fashion.

STOP GO TO THE BULLETIN BOARD AND DIS­COVER WHAT MAKES COORDINATED FASHIONi

59

total look

coordination

color texture

basic skin

bright eye-catching

2 1 and 1 and

3 3

5. Coordination of fashions can be accom­plished by choosing clothing pieces so that they can be switched about and worn in many different combinations.

If your clothing can be switched about and worn in many different combinations you have accomplished of fashions.

6. The thing most noticeable about a coordi­nated wardrobe is harmony of color and tex­ture. Colors range from bright to dull, light to dark. Texture simply means how a fabric feels to the hand and looks to the eye.

The most noticeable thing about a wardrobe is harmony of

coordinated and

7. Choose one or two basic colors (like blue, green, brown, etc.) around which all other pieces are chosen. This color should be one that flatters your skin coloring.

flattering to your colors that arc coloring.

8. Accent colors can be very bright and eye­catching.

Accent colors can be very and

9. Texture used fo fled under these th harsh, heavy, dull, soft; 3) fine, smoo rials in group two those in groups one and three take grea for skillful combin effect.

Materials in group in and

r clothing may be classi-ree headings: 1) rough, durable-looking; 2) medium, th, sheer, shiny. Mate-are usable with either of and three,but those in one ter care and understanding ing and for a pleasing

are usable with those but groups and take

more skill in combining for a pleasing effect.

10. The object in planning a coordinated wardrobe is to provide a total supply of wear­ing apparel which is harmonious in all its

60

coordinated all becoming occasion

"total look"

teenager major

"total look"

young

parts, becoming to you,and adequate for each type of occasion in your everyday life.

The object in planning a wardrobe is to provide a total supply of wearing apparel which is harmonious in its parts,

to type of

you, and adequate for each in your everyday life.

11. A well-coordinated fashion appearance that is created by all individual fashion items working together is the " " of fashion.

12. This prograramed instruction booklet has been prepared as a guide for all young men and women. In 1970, teenagers spent around $30 billion and this did not include the great influence they had on their family's spending. This is why you, as a teenager, are a focus point of a major portion of all clothing adver­tising and of the type of garments produced especially for you to buy.

As a , you arc a focal point of a portion of all clothing advertising

and of the type of garments produced especially for you to buy.

13. This study will acquaint you with a basic knowledge of contemporary men's fashion: how to select fashions for the amount of money you have to spend and for the quality that you want, how to wear them correctly, and how to care for them properly. It is also intended to show some of the more important fasions now popular and to offer helpful hints on achieving a well-coordinated fashion appear­ance known as the " . "

14. In today's lesson we have already dis­cussed the revolution against stereotyped fashion thinking that is being sparked largely by people.

15. Men's clothing has not always been of somber colors and rigid cuts. Fancy waist­coats, satin sashes, striped pantaloons, ruf­fles and feather plumes were once the accc] ted high style for men. Tliere was once an age when men's fashions were more colorful tlian women's i

61

more

plainness

fad

Mod English

tastefully

contemporary

In certain periods of history, men's fashions were colorful than women's!

16. Later, men's fashions declined into a long siege of plainness.

Men's fashions later declined into a long siege of ,

17. It is true that our country witnessed some highly individualistic fashions, partic­ularly in the "Roaring 20's" and the World War II years, but these were mainly fad items worn only by a daring few.

Highly individualistic fashions were mainly items worn only by a daring few.

18 In the decade of the 60's, the first glimmering of the new fashion freedom was seen in Mod clothing. These English-inspired fash­ions were brilliantly colored and elaborately styled, and they fit with the fashion thinking of many young people.

The clothing was -inspired.

19. While the Mod trend did not last (much of the clothing proved too gaudy, poorly made, or overpriced), there is no denying the impact it left on the American scene. Now it was clear that new ideas, if tastefully directed, had a definite place in modern men's fashions!

The Mod trend left an impact of new ideas that if directed, had a definite place in modern men's fashion.

20. Today, millions of men of all ages are enjoying fashions with a new and fresher ex­pression about them. Even the stores in which they are sold have taken on a freer, more con­temporary look.

Both fashions and the stores which sell them have taken on a freer, more lool;.

21. Kany manufacturers are now offering clothes designed specifically for the young generation. These exciting new fa.shions arc well made, realistically priced, and perhaps

62

best of all, filled with a lot of young, creative ideas.

Fashions designed specifically for the young are filled with a lot of , creative ideas.

young

linen wool shirt

22. Back around 1,000 B.C., the shirt was a real status symbol! The richer Norsemen of that day wore a close-fitting linen or wool garment known as a "skyrta" (the forerunner to modern man's shirt). The poor men had to wear a fur "skyrta." Woven fabrics were harder to produce and therefore more expensive

The rich Norsemen wore a close-fitting or woven "skyrta," the forerunner to modern man's

23. In later medieval times, the shirt de­noted such affluence and high class that laws were passed to prohibit its wearing by the lower classes.

prohibit lower or poorer

Medieval governments passed laws to the wearing of shirts by the classes.

24. Luckily, no men are barred today from wearing shirts because they just happen to be among the most exciting fashions around. Es­pecially eye-catching are shirts in the new stripes. There are bold stripes, subtle stripes, narrov/ stripes, thick and thin stripes, cluster stripes and many more. The look today is young and free-spirited, and colorful shirts are now staples in a young man's ward­robe.

young staples

The look today is and free-spirited, and colorful shirts are now in young man's wardrobe.

25. Incidentally, you can v/ear a striped shirt with a striped suit and tie, provided the stripes all vary from one anotlier.

You can wear a striped shirt witli a striped suit and tie provided the stripes from one another.

vary 26. The most popular shirt material is

63

combination of polyester and cotton because it takes little care and usually no ironing. There are many kinds of fabrics that are pop­ular, but knits, broadcloth and Oxford cloth seem to top the list.

The most popular shirt material is and • Popular kinds of fabrics are

, , and

cotton polyester knits broadcloth Oxford cloth

27. When choosing a shirt, remember that the distance from neckband to collar tips is called "points" while the distance between the collar points is called the "spread."

The distance from shirt neckband to collar tips is called while the distance between the collar points is called tlie

points spread

28. As the fashion pendulum swings to wider suit lapels and wider ties, men have discov­ered that longer point, wider spread shirt collars are needed to top off the look. This collar stvle can be worn WRI. 1 by most, men.

longer wider wider wider

wider shorter neckbands

A popular shirt collar style is the point, spread. It is needed to top off the look of ties.

suit lapels and

29. However, there are always those who can use extra help in either broadening or slim­ming their facial appearance. For examiple, the man with a noticeably thin face and a long neck can give a visual v;idening effect by wearing shirts with wider spread, shorter point collars, with high neckbands to shorten the neck.

The man with a thin face and a long neck can give a visual widening effect by wearing shirts with spread, point collars, and high •

30. On the other hand, the more robust man with a short heavy neck can slim his appear­ance visually by wearing shirts with laoro moderate spread, longer point colleirs or tlio long point button-down collars.

64

moderate longer point

medium lightweight vertical

heavier textured horizontal

button-down

body-shirt

Big men with thick necks should wear shirts with spread and collars.

31. To give an overall visual slimness: Select clothing in mediiim to lightweight fab­rics with vertical patterns (stripes, herring­bones) .

To give an overall visual slimness: clothing in to with

Select fabrics

patterns.

32. Visually, you will look heavier if you choose clothing in heavier, more textured fabrics with horizontal patterns.

Visually, you will look heavier if you choose clothing in , more fabrics with patterns.

33. The button-down shirt, by the way, re­mains a popular style with men of all ages. It lends a casual look that fits in well with traditional clothing and sports coordinaLes, but for evening wear it generally is not con­sidered "dressy" enough.

A popular shirt with sports coordinates is the - .

34. The "body" shirt is becoming a big favor­ite, especially among younger men. Its slim­mer, trimmer fashion is tailored to fit the lines of the body closely. The chest tapers perfectly to the waist, the shoulders have the right degree of pitch, the collar is properly shaped, and the armholes do not droop or pinch.

A favorite shirt with the young man because it is designed to fit the body lines closely and comfortably without blousing or bunching is the .

35. The increased popularity of sportsv.-ear is directly traceable to the rise in extra leisure time.

Present popularity of traceable to the rise of extra

is dirL\7tly leisure time.

65

sportswear

2- and 3-button

longer point body

comparative

36. Interest in another special type of clothing has arisen due to the influence of the young for clothing designed especially for them. Today, many manufacturers are of­fering fashions designed specifically for the younger generation. For example. Van Huesen recently introduced its bright, breezy "Geer" collection. It has woven and knit shirts in an array of patterns and colors. There are such man-pleasers as fashion shirts in deeply-hued stripes, elegant voile shirts, wall­paper prints, boldly striped crewneck knits, and ribbed "tank tops." Boss calls their collection "Shapely" while Sears ran a nation­wide poll of teenagers who voted to call their collection "Put On Shop." Present plus-fashion includes features like 2- and 3-button cuffs, longer point collars,and "body" fit.

Plus fashion features include features like cuffs ,

collars,and fit.

37 All these fashions "designed especially :or the young" may sound like they cost a small fortune. But teenagers who know how to do COMPARATIVE shopping know that they can buy a shirt similar to those that cost $10 for $2.50-$4.00. Part of the cost is for a specific name brand, but to some young men, the manufacturer is unimportant. The type of store you buy from tends to vary also. It may be worth your time

The type the cost to do COM­

PARATIVE shopping at several stores.

Comparing the merchandise at several stores so as to make the best buy for your money is known as shopping.

38. No one wants to buy something that will come apart tomorrow. Quality in clothing is often based upon these features:

a) how long the fabric will look good and the care needed;

b) finishing and neatness of buttonholes and other stitching;

c) good fit through the shoulder area; d) length of sleeve and shirt tail; e) the fit of the collar and if it holds

its shape;

iJS*.

66

care buttonholes

stitching shoulder length collar

shape seams

labels store cost factory store number

f) how the seams are made—flat felled seams are the most durable (strongest).

F T

example: Flat Felled Seam J

In judging the quality of a garment, you would look for the following things:

a) fabric durability and needed; b) finishing of the and other

c) d) e)

f)

good fit through the of sleeves <

fit of the i its ; flat felled

area; and shirt tail; and if it holds

39. The major reasons that the cost of very similar garments may vary are:

a) the prestige of labels from famous de­signers and manufacturers;

b) the type of store from v hich purchased (discount, men's store);

c) ar!tnal cost of fabric, thread, buttons, etc. ;

d) the amount earned hourly by employees in the factory;

e) the amount of money that it costs the owner to operate his type of store--this is called overhead;

f) whether the store owner buys 20 shirts of that same kind or 500.

If the cost of two similar garments vary, it is probably due to:

a) the prestige of from a famous manufacturer; type of purchased from; actual

b) c) d) e) f)

of materials; wages paid to employees in the . the cost of operating the ; the of the same kind of shirt purchased.

40. All in all, the new clothing designed especially for the young has evolvv-d because you have made your wants and needs as a teen­ager known. It is important that vou be .in­formed about selecting, buying, and caring for your wardrobe. Be an informed consimier.

w

67

It is very important for you to be an informed

REVIEW QUESTIONS: THE MEN'S FASHION REVOLU­TION

consumer 1. The men's fashion " " today represents freedom from stereotyped fashion thinking.

2. This "revolution" is being sparked largely by the .

3. If your clothing can be switched about and worn in many different combinations, you have of fashion.

4. The -inspired clothing began the trend to fashion freedom in men's wear.

5. At one point in history, men dressed colorfully than women.

6. Many manufacturers today offer clothing designed specifically for the consumer.

7. Early rich Norsemen wore or "skyrtas," fore-runners of modern

men' s

8. Medieval governments passed laws to pro­hibit •

9. A striped shirt can be worn with a striped suit and tie as long as the stripes from one another.

10. The distance from shirt neckband to collar tips is called while the distance between the collar points is called the

11. Shirts with long, pointed collars go best with ties and lapel fash­ions.

68

12. Visually, you will look if you choose more texturized, heavy fabrics with horizontal designs and in medium to lightweight fabrics v/ith vertical stripes.

13. " " shirts are tailored to fit body lines closely and comfortably.

14. The rise in popularity of is directly traceable to the rise in extra leisure time.

15. Teenagers are important consumers and need to assunie the role of consumers.

If you finish this programmed lesson before the class period is over:

1. Go to the mirror and quietly try on the different shirt colors and decide which colors go best with your skin coloring.

STOP—DO NOT GO TO THE NEXT LESSON

LESSON 2: STYLES THAT EXPRESS THE MAN

69

A FASHION VOCABULARY

Modern fashions tor men present so many different style features, each described by its own unique term, that one really needs a good fashion vocabulary to keep up to date' As a guide to your study of mens fashions, we offer these sketches (they begin at lop left and run clockwise) to illustrate exactly what is meant by each fashion term.

Basic suit styles are single-breasted (1) . . and double-breasted (2). A popular sportcoat style is the blazer (3) . . . often offered in a double-breasted version (4) In the newes' fashions, jackets are shaped (5) . . or front-darted (6) Shoulder treat­ments include natural (7) , . . and forward pitched (8;. Lapel variations mclude nofchedl?) . . and peaked (lO; Jacket open­ings are center vented (11) . . . or side vented (12) Pocket treat­ments include the patch pocket (13) . . . straigtit Hap pocket (14) . . hacking pocket (15) . . and ticket pocket (15). Trouser styles include regular leg (17) . . straight leg (18) . . . flared bottom (19) . . and canted bottom (20)^Popular shirt collars include the long point (21) . . the button-down (22) . . the medium spread (23) . . . and the v/ide spread (24). Shirt cuff treatments include barrel (25) . fashion (26) . , and French cuff (27). Neckties Include four-in-hand (28) . . bow tie (29) Windsor knot (30)

and half Windsor knot (31). Popular fabric patterns are twill (32) . . herringbone (33) windowpane (34) houndstooth check (35) , . . glen plaid (36) and tartan plaid (37)

Reproduced from educational material provided by the Home Economist.s Service Bureau of The Van Heusen Company.

':izg±a3Br?n^aii!i'. i

: i

IP

70

1. There is such a wide range of men's fash­ions on today's market that all the styles could become quite confusing, but not for you because today we are going to study the cur­rent styles. Then you will be able to select styles wisely for yourself and even give help­ful suggestions to others. Spend a few min­utes of hard study learning the name of each fashion featured on the front page in "A Fashion Vocabulary." Then, using the numbered area below, see how many fashions you can name.

1. 19.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.

11,

12.

13.

14.

15.

16.

17.

18.

20.

21.

22.

23,

24.

25,

26.

27.

28.

29.

30,

31,

32,

33

34

35

36

37

m

71

traditional classic forward

fashion

color flair

shaping unique

2. There is no such "critter" as the univer­sal suit, and even if there were, not all men would be happy with itl Instead, modern man has a choice of three basic clothing styles: traditional, classic, and forward fashion. His adoption of one of these "looks" is usu­ally influenced by his age and position in life.

Modern man has ing styles: and

a choice of three basic cloth-

3. As a rule, younger men prefer clothes with more color and flair than the styles worn by older businessmen.

The younger man usually prefers clothes with more and more .

4. The differecne betV7een one fashion cate­gory and another is largely a matter of interpretation of certain styling points. For example, the nipping-in at the waistline, called shaping, is now popular to varying de­grees in men's fashions. It is moderate in tlie classic category, more pronounced in tra­ditional clothing, and very noticeable in forward fashion. You will also see that each fashion category has at least one unique fea­ture that helps set it apart from the others.

The nipping-in at the waistline, called , is now popular in all men's

each fashion category has feature.

fashions. However, at least one

5. TRADITIONAL—Hallmark of this style is the natural, unpadded shoulder. Another tra­ditional detail is the extra seam stitching along the edges of the lapels, down the front opening of the jacket, at the breast pocket, and around the ticket flaps.

The Traditional Styling is best known by two fashion marks: 1) the / shoulder and 2) extra

72

natural unpadded seam stitching

6. Traditional fashion offers a man quite a bit of latitude in style selection. The tra­ditional "purist" would probably choose a single-breasted, three-button suit with straight, almost severe lines. His more daring cousin would prefer a two-button,single-breasted suit updated by shaping to give it a whole new look*

straight

shaping double wide high

buttons straight cuff

classic

The traditional "purist" would probably choose a single-breasted, -button suit with

lines.

7. Finally, the "swinger" along traditional lines would go for a highly shaped, double-breasted suit with wide lapels and a longer jacket with high center vent.

"swinger" The traditional to his suit through s_ _ _ breast, lapels, vent.

gives a modern touch r "

and a center

8. Coat buttons in the traditional style are placed low to expose more shirt and tie. The slacks are the slim, straight legged variety and usually have a cuff. Vests are very much a part of the look. Traditional colors are generally in the medium bright range and stripes are by far the most popular pattern.

The low placement of coat in the traditional style allows more shirt to show. The traditional slacks are slim, legged and usually have a .

9. CLASSIC—This fashion has the "look" of solid success and is primarily worn by the more mature man. Simplified yet smart design is the important factor in this style. Con­sidered a middle-of-the-road-style, it often borrows style details from other categories but modifies them greatly.

The successful, more mature businessman would probably wear a style of suit.

10. Men's tailored clothing with simplified and styled-down, yet smart design is the classic style. Featured is the sinyIc-brcajt

73

single notched minimum front cuffs

with two or three buttons, notched lapels, straight flap pockets, and a center vent of medium depth. The shoulders have a minimum of padding. Jacket waistlines are either slightly shaped or front darted for a trim fitted look. Slacks have a plain front and can be cuffed or uncuffed. Rich solid colors in medium to dark tones are very big in the classic group. Neat stripes and subdued plaids are also popular.

The classic style features with two or three buttons, straight flap pockets, slight shaping or slacks with or without

the breast lapels,

padding, darting, and

11. FORWARD FASHION—This is high style. The fashion with individuality and flair. This fashion category has enjoyed the greatest recent growth in popularity, particularly among younger men. It is in forward fashion that the impact of the name designers has been most evident.

The fashion produced by name designers that has enjoyed the greatest recent popularity is called

forward fashion

12. Forward fashion is often called the "New Masculinity Look." That is because the forward-pitched shoulder line (a feature unique to this category), combined with very assert­ive shaping, tends to broaden the chest and shoulders in a ruggedly masculine way. The style features in forward fashion include longer jackets flared out at the bottom, wider lapels with deep notching, angled hacking pockets and ticket pockets, higher armholes, and very deep center or side vents.

Forward Fashion is often called the ." It features the

ive

-pitched shoulder line, assert-, longer jackets out

at the bottom. lapels v;ith deep notching, angled and ticket pockets, higher

, and deep .

74

New Masculin­ity Look

forward shaping flared wider armholes vents

13. In forward fashion, single-breasted jackets often have just a single button placed low. Double-breasted fashions are very im­portant in this category. Contemporary models are boldly shaped and their closings range from the four button, one-to-one button style to the dressy eight button, two-to-button variation.

-breasted fashions are very im-

Double

cuffless canted creativity personality

fabric pattern color total look

portant in forward fashion.

14. The slacks are usually cuffless and canted on the bottom. Forward fashion colors and patterns are virtually limitless, showing high creativity and projecting real personal­ity!

The slacks are usually and on the bottom. Colors and patterns show high

and project real

15. COORDINATES—The men's fashion family would not be complete without coordinates. Popularly referred to as sport outfits, coordinates are jackets and slacks which are specifically tailored in fabric, pattern, and color so that they can be worn together for a pleasing "total look." Jackets range from "toothy" tweeds and shetlands in the tradi­tional style to sleek worsted wools, corduroys and knits in the forward look to the muted colors and patterns found in the classic category.

Coordinates are jackets and slacks which are specifically tailored in , , and so that they can be worn to­gether for a pleasing " . "

16. Remembering your study on coordinated fashion in Lesson 1, choose 5 garments from the following list so that you would have a basic coordinated wardrobe of jackets, slacks, and shirts.

75

a

b

c d e f, g h 1

j k 1 m, n, o P q

green green

twill twill

jacket slacks

Navy blue and white houndstooth check jacket Navy blue and white houndstooth check slacks Blue and olive Blue and olive Blue jacket Blue slacks Red jacket Olive jacket Olive slacks Navy jacket Navy slacks Red, white. White shirt Red shirt Blue shirt Olive sweater Navy sweater with a red stripe around chest

and blue stripped slacks

17. Sportswear is both a huge and varied category of men's clothing. Its rise in pop­ularity with American men can be directly traced to the rise in non-v/orking leisure time for sports, travel, and other casual ac­tivities. Sportswear has become the good looking way of dressing when you do not want to dress upl

The rise in popularity of is directly traceable to the rise in extra lei-sure time. It is a good way of when you do not want to dress up.

sportswear dressing

18. High fashion definitely belong ing is the common Jackets and coats der line and fall moderately fitted ranges from short-suits are using a

and the designer imprint in modern sportswear. Shap-denominator in tliis line, are cut close to the shoul-with a slight flare from waists. Jacket length •short to regular. Some vest in place of a jacket.

is the common denominator in sportsv/ear and just as in any jacket, the good fit begins at the s _ _ li^^. Jacket ranges from short-short to regular with some suits abandoning the jacket for a

76

Shaping shoulder length vest

color texture

suits tunic

19. For the fashion-conscious young man, sport shirts offer a gold mine of style and color. For a different "kick," young men choose such sport shirt styles as the "see-through," the "Romeo" shirt (shaped, collar-less, three-quarter length sleeves), and shirts designed along the lines of a belted bush jacket. Along with color, the great emphasis today is on "texture" in sport shirts, interpreted in silky-blend broad­cloths, chambray, crepes and voiles, and nubby weaves.

The great emphasis today is on and

20. There is also a fast-building trend to "shirt suits" in two basic styles: 1) belted shirt top over slacks; and (2) shirt, sleeve­less tunic, and slacks.

"Shirt less

come belted or with a sleeve-over shirt and slacks.

21, Knitwear .is fashion for men who like action-geared clothing. A popular new-comer to the knit fashion of younger men is the "Wallace Berry" collarless shirt with scooped neckline. The crewneck sweater is a big favorite, while turtleneck and mock turtle-neck styles are popular with young men who like this ruggedly masculine look. Knits range in style from the classic polo shirts to the belted tunic shirts or to shaggy pull­over sweaters or sleek cardigans. Here again, "texture" is the byword, as in the pebble knits, tweedy twist knits, and rib-textured knits.

texture

As in sport shirts, the byword in knitwear is

22. In casual slacks, bright colors and pat­terns are now almost traditional for young men. Examples include: narrow and blazer stripes; box plaids; glen plaids; windowpane plaids over textured grounds; authentic tar­tans; tattersalls; geometric and free—form abstracts; and oriental-inspired mosaics.

77

florals, and paisleys. Still popular are slacks in chino, corduroy, flannel, and hop-sacking plus, of course, the "dressed-up" jeans.

bright patterns

In casual slacks, numberless

colors and are now almost

traditional for young men.

23. SWIMWEAR—A recent craze among the younger set is the shiny "wet look" of nylon swim suits. Solid color poplins, woven plaids, checks, and stripes are other swimwear favor­ites. If a man is more inclined toward the beach than the water, he can relax in beach "tops" ranging from simple pull-over models to hooded models with laced closures at neck and waist. When choosing swimwear, you will get the best value from quality fabrics that dry quickly, have a good appearance when wet, and are color fast and shrinkproof.

The best value in swimwear is made of quality fabrics that , have a good appearance when , and are fast and

REVIEW QUESTIONS: MEN'S FASHIONS TODAY

dry quickly wet color shrinkproof

1. Man has three basic clothing choices , , and

2. A popular feature in modern fashion is a nipping-in of the suit jacket waistline called

3. Natural, unpadded shoulders and extra seam stitching are hallmarks of the s ty 1 e.

4. Sim.plified, yet smart design typifies the clothing style.

5. Forward-pitched shoulders and assertive shaping are found in the style called

78

6. Jackets and slacks that match in fabric, pattern, and color are called fashions.

7. is the common denominator and just as in any jacket, the good fit begins at the line.

8. In sport shirts, today's emphasis is on and ,

9 . Nylon swim suits with a " " are popular among young men.

If you finish this programmed lesson before the class period is over:

1. Use the samples of fabric provided and coordinate a wardrobe for a young man.

STOP—DO NOT GO ON TO THE NEXT LESSON

^s.

79

young colorfully sportswear

traditional classic forward

fashion

well-dressed

uncoordinated total look

carefully

LESSON 3: WARDROBE KNOW-HOW

1. In our first lesson you learned the brief history about men's fashion and how a fashion "revolution" is now being sparked largely by

people; that at one point in history, men dressed more than women; and that increased leisure time has brought about the popularity of , a leisurely way of looking dressed up.

2. Yesterday we learned that man has three basic clothing choices: ,

, and .

3. Today,you will get down to basics and learn just how a man can be well-dressed on all occasions.

Today, I will learn how a man can be -

4. With all of the style and color excitement in men's fashions today, there is a great ten­dency for a man to buy clothing on impulse alone without first checking to see that it fits in with the rest of his wardrobe. The result is an uncoordinated look in which each fashion item stands by itself rather than con­tributing to a satisfactory "total look."

Impulse buying often results in an look in fashion rather than contributing to satisfactory " • "

5. A wardrobe should be carefully selected with attention paid to the final impression desired. The following pointers will indi­cate how this is done.

A wardrobe should be selected.

6. A man's shirt is at the heart of his style zone—a "visual triangle" formed around the shirt, tie,and suit lapels. The style zone often determines a man's initial imprcsr.ion.

m

80

/ ^

style zone shirt tie lapels

inches

broadening slimming

points

double-breasted

longer wider

A man's initial impression is often determined ^y the , a visual triangle formed around the , and suit

7. Nothing looks better on a man than a collar that fits well and is in proper propor­tion to his facial dimensions. Size of collar corresponds to the inches around the neck and is easy to check with a tape measure.

Size of collar corresponds to the around the neck.

8. Selecting the right style of collar is a bit more complex than choosing tlie right size. The general rule you learned in lesson one was that a collar with wider spread and shorter points gives a effect on the facial appearance while moderate spread and longer points give a effect.

9. Remember that the two points of a collar should lie flat against the shirt at all times. Look for collar stays that add body to the point and that cannot be lost in the laundry.

Remember that the collar should lie flat against the shirt at all times.

10, Remember not to select a button-down shirt to wear with a double-breasted suit! The longer point, wider spread shirt collar is needed to top off the look of wider suit lapels and wider ties.

Remember not to wear with a but the

select a button-down shirt to 2 suit

point, spread collar,

11. If a fashionable suit and shirt can be considered the "cake," then a colorful tie is the "icing"! Ties supply the color accent to a wardrobe, and they should be selected in colors that mirror those of the suit and shirt

Ties supply the color to and the color should mirror those

and

a wardrobe of the

accent suit shirt

Windsor Windsor total look

81

12. Wider lapels on suit jackets today mean that more shirt and tie are visible; thus, it is more important to choose ties carefully. The width of the ties currently in favor range from 3 to 4 1/2 inches, and this calls for a Windsor or half-V7indsor knot to complement the generally broadened "total look."

The v/ide ties call for a or half-

broadened knot to complement the generally

13. A handkerchief or pocket square in the breast pocket of a suit should never look as if it were carefully folded into place. Far more stylish is the loose and casual look, created by simply but thoughtfully jamming the handkerchief into the pocket. Another method is to reverse the handkerchief or square so that a soft bubble is created in the center, then tuck the points down and insert it into the pocket. Finally, avoid wearing those artificial pocket squares of cloth and card­board .

jamming bubble

shaped shoulders

The best methods for putting a handkerchief or pocket square in the breast pocket is by thoughtful or forming a soft

14. Shape, which is a nipping-in of a jacket waistline, is a very important feature in modern fashion. If you favor this style, you must make double sure that the jacket fits well in the shoulders or else a top-heavy look will result.

A nipped-in or well in the

jacket should fit

15. Your arms should be able to move freely without catching or binding through the shoul­der seams or armholes. The jacket should hang smoothly when buttoned. Keep your jacket but­toned because it can lose its shape if the buttons are always kept open.

If your jacket is often left unbuttoned, it can losG its

m-

82

shape

hug 1/2 to 3/4 flat

thumb

unnecessary

1/2 to 3/4 1/2 to 3/4

waist inseam

16. The collar of the suit should hug the neckline, allowing between 1/2 to 3/4 inch of shirt collar to show at the back. Check to see that suit lapels lie as flat as pos­sible against the jacket.

the neck-inch of

The collar of the suit should line, allowing between to shirt collar to show at the backT! The lapels should lie ,

17, Generally, the jacket should be long enough to touch the tip of the thumb; however, many contemporary jackets have a few addi­tional inches at the bottom. If you like this longer length, by all means wear it.

The general rule of minimum length for a jacket is that it should be long enough to touch the tip of the ,

18, One more rule: do not jam unnecessary items into your suit pockets because they can easily push the pockets out of shape.

Suit pockets are not a place to jam items,

19, The sleeves of your shirt should extend from 1/2 to 3/4 inch beyond the jacket sleeve. For an extra touch of fashion, try sporting some of the exciting new designs in cuff links!

The collar of the collar to show shirt sleeve also shows

suit should allow the shirt _ to inch while the

inch. to

20. Suit slacks today are generally straight and wider. When selecting slacks, know your waist and inseam measurements and make sure the fit over the hips is comfortable without being baggy. Remember, if you vrear a belt, be sure to have it on when you are having your slacks fitted.

The two measurements that you need to kno\; to buy slacks are for your and .

21. Cuffs are coming bad: into the fa::hion look more and more, giving balance to the wider

83

balanced instep back

socks bare leg

coordinated polished

formal

pants legs. Pants cuffs should hang down so that they just touch the instep of the shoe and just cover the top of the shoe in back.

Cuffs give the wider pants legs a look. Pants cuffs should just touch the

of the shoe and just cover the top of the shoe in .

22. Select socks in colors that blend v/ell with your shoe and pants shades. Socks should never show when you are standing up and bare leg should never show when you are sitting down. The latter problem can be eliminated by wearing mid-calf or over-the-calf lengths.

Your should never show when you are standing and your should never show when you are sitting.

23. The style and color of shoes should be coordinated with the suit. Do not wear brown shoes with a black suit or vice versa! Keep up the life of your shoes with frequent pol-ishings.

The style and color of shoes should be with the suit and be well

24. The guidelines on what to wear for any occasion have relaxed somewhat over the years, particularly as the fashions become less formal and stiff. However, a man should know when and where each item in his wardrobe is, in the main, acceptable. Actually, there is nothing complicated about dressing correctly and the basic rules are few.

Guidelines have relaxed somewhat over the years as the fashions become less and stiff.

25. The man who works in a business office knows that, by and large, the tailored suit with dress shirt and tie is his "uniform." Therefore, any young man seeking office em­ployment should always wear his best suit to the interview in order to make his best imires sion.

84

tailored shirt tie

2 8 single double

smaller neater loud

coordinated

suit

Usually the businessman's "uniform" is the • suit with dress and

26. Business suits today are available in many stylish 2- and 3-button models in the single-breasted style. One of the most popu­lar new fashions acceptable for office wear is the double-breasted suit, which may have from 4 to 8 buttons.

Business suits have as few as as many as and may be breasted.

27. Sport coat and slacks may also in an office, but loud patterns and are taboo; smaller, neater patterns erable, as are colors that are just brighter than basic suit tones.

buttons or

or

be worn colors are pref-a bit

Sport coat and slacks office, but , preferred over

may also be worn in an patterns are

patterns and colors.

28. In sports outfits, make sure that the color and pattern of jacket and slacks are well coordinated to convey an eye-pleasing look. The double-breasted "sport blazer," worn with color-matched slacks, adds extra dash to a business wardrobe and is perfectly permissible in the modern office.

The color and pattern of a jacket and slacks are well to convey an eye-pleasing look.

29. Dress shirts for office wear are avail­able in a wide range of colors, patterns ,and collar styles. Choose shirts in colors that go with the basic shade of your suit.

The color of your shirt should go with the basic shade of your .

30. Patterned dress shirts are okay for of­fice wear, particularly the single and mul­tiple stripes over white backgrounds. Remun; ber, though, that sport shirts are never, never worn with business suits I

85

business or tailored

Sport shirts are never worn with suits.

31, Finally, select ties that reflect suit and shirt colors. You will find that most all dress shirts today are designed to be v/orn easily with the new 3-inch and wider neckties,

Your tie should reflect the colors of your and

suit shirt

32. LEISURE WEAR is fashion with a bit more freedom and color than business wear, but is not quite as casual as sportswear. Leisure wear is the fashion for dating, for informal parties, and for weekend trips. It is even perfect for that special look on important school days and should meet most school dress codes.

sportswear dating informal trips school

jacket slacks patterns colors

blazer Norfolk corduroy

Leisure wear is not as casual as It is great for , weekend

parties. and even

33. The dominant outfit is a sport jacket and slacks with emphasis on bolder patterns and colors. Stripes, checks, windowpanes, plaids, herringbones, and tattersalls are favorite patterns, and the colors are much warmer and sunnier.

The dominant outfit is a sport and with emphasis on bolder

and

34. Variations of the basic sport jacket such as blazers, Norfolk jackets, and corduroy coats, are leisure wear classics very much in the picture today.

Variations of the basic sport jacket are the , jacket, and

coat.

35. To go with his sport jacket, a man can effectively team a dress shirt but he will most likely prefer a sport shirt for its more casual lines. Similarly, wliilc he is not

86

business or tailored

sports

shape wider double black

fashions

wrong in wearing a tie, a man is more apt to favor a scarf for adding greater color and verve to his leisure wear.

Sport shirts are never worn with suits but are often preferred with jackets.

36. FORjyiAL WEAR—The word "formal" may sound rather unexciting, but the truth of the matter is that formal attire, too, has benefitted from the men's fashion revolution.' Today's formal wear displays such up-to-date fashion points as shape, wider shoulders, and double-breasted styling. The long-time standard color of black has now been joined by maroons and reds, soft blues and forest greens.

Formal wear features today's fashion points of . , shoulders, and

-breasted styling. Maroons and reds, soft blues and forest greens have joined the standard of coloring.

37. The new bow ties and cumm.crbunds complete a formal picture that is far different than it was in Grandpa's day! And while a young man might not have a great number of occasions calling for formal wear, he can rest assured that when he is invited to a big formal party or dance, he will not have to leave his "fashion" at home!

Formal wear has been revolutionized to the point where it joins the new " " for men.

REVIEW QUESTIONS: WARDROBE KNOW-HOW

1. A man's initial impression is often deter­mined by the Style Zone which includes the

, , and

2. Shirt collar styles can visually or a man's face.

3. Each item of apparel should contril utc to a good " . "

p^^v

87

4. Tie colors should mirror those of and

5. Collar style determines the size of tied in a tie.

6, A loose and casual look is important for . squares and handkerchiefs and card­board + fabric ones should be avoided.

7. Suit jackets from to show in back.

the neck and allow inch of shirt collar to

8. Shirt sleeves extend from inch beyond jacket sleeves.

to

9, (True or False) Slacks fit over the hips comfortably but are not baggy,

10, Cuffs just touch the instep of the and just cover the of the shoe back,

11, Socks should be long enough to prevent the from. shov;ing.

12. Shoes are well p and c with the rest of the outfit.

13, The basic business office "uniform" in­cludes a , , and

, Neatly patterned sport may be worn. and

14. Sport shirts are. never worn with suits but are often preferred with jackets.

If you finish your programmed instruction be­fore the period ends:

1. Clip from the magazines provided, men's fashions you most prefer to wear or see your friends wear. Look for the fashion points we have studied today.

STOP—DO NOT GO TO TIIE NEXT LESSON

^SP*/

88

constant proper

promptly professional

dry cleaner

shaped shoulder break collar

LESSON 4: HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR INVESTMENT

YOU HAVE A LOT OF MONEY TO SPEND, DO YOU NOT? NO? WELL, TODAY YOU WILL LEARN HOW TO TAKE CARE OF THE THINGS YOU HAVE BOUGHT WITH YOUR HARD-EARNED MONEY. Today's objective is to learn the importance of a v/ell-kept wardrobe.

1. You will greatly prolong the life of every garment in your wardrobe with constant and proper care. After all, clothing costs money and if you can increase the life of that cloth­ing, you can also save a lot of hard-earned cash!

You will greatly prolong the life of every garment in your wardrobe with and

care.

2. Be sure to have spots and stains removed from clothing promptly. The best way to do this is to take the garment to a professional dry cleaner, especially if you know that the stain v/ill be hard to rem.ove. HomiC removal techniques often set the stain where they will not come out. Besides, many cleaning solvents are flammable or poisonous or both and it is best to let an expert handle them.

Spots and stains should be removed from cloth­ing . The best way to have spots and stains removed from clothing is to take the garment to a .

3. Suit jackets and sport coats should be hung on shaped wooden hangers to preserve the shoulder fit. Hanging a jacket on a hook can break the collar.

Hanging suit jackets and sport coats on _ wooden hangers preserves the fit while a hook can the .

4. Try to change your suit or other garments each day. When given a rest, garment fibers have a chance to realign. Do not carry a lot of unnecessary items in your pockc^ts becaur.e they not only pull the suit out of rhape but also look unsightly.

W^'

89

realign shape look

weaken dry cleaning

rewoven

suede

creases minor

Garment fibers will hanging. Unnecessary items suit out of but also unsightly.

_ during proper not only pull the

5. A good stiff clothes brush is an indis-man's wardrobe. Frequent lint and dirt that can Remember to brush under-suit lapels and inside

trouser cuffs. Bo not let anyone tell you that dry cleaning wears out a suit. Actually, regular dry cleaning revitalizes suiting fab­rics !

pensable item in any brushing removes the weaken suit fibers, neath the collar and

Frequent brushing removes that can garment

the lint and dirt fibers and regular

revitalizes suit fabrics!

6, If you should tear a hole in a good gar­ment, do not try to darn it. Have it rewoven The operation can be expensive but in terms of appearance and longer garment life, well v/orth it.

Holes can be by dry cleaners,

7, Do not discard a favorite sport coat just because the material has worn through at the elbows. Just sew on some sporty looking suede elbow patches.

Worn elbows can be given a sporty look with elbow patches.

8. Slacks should be hung on special pants hangers that suspend them by the cuffs. In this way, gravity helps pull the creases straight and removes minor wrinkles.

If slacks are suspended by the cuffs, gravity helps pull the straight and removes

wrinkles.

9. Shirts should be laundered after every wearing. This prevents soil from thoroughly penetrating the fibers and causing needless wear.

90

every fibers wear

stains collar cuffs

Shirts should be laundered after wear­ing to prevent soil from thoroughly penetrating the and causing needless .

10. Prepare a shirt for laundering by pre-treating stains, turning collar up and cuffs dov/n to prevent wear.

Before laundering, pre-treat the up and the French"

, turn down.

11. Generally, a shirt collar wears out first In many cases it can be reversed to give added wearing time. Similarly, French cuffs can often be reversed to extend their useful life.

The part of the shirt that tends to wear out first is the , In many cases the

and can be reversed to extend their useful life.

collar collar French cuffs

12. If you have ample space in your closet, try hanging up your shirts rather than folding and putting them in a drawer. This will go a long v/ay tov/ard preventing wrinkles and creases.

wrinkles creases

tie rack knot

Hanging rather than folding will go a long way toward preventing and .

13. Ties should be kept spotless and crisp looking. Keep them on a tie rack, not loose in a drawer. Always undo the knot before hanging ties,

Ties should be kept on a . Always undo the before hanging ties.

14, Always put your best foot forward in well-polished shoes. Shoe trees preserve shape and keep the toes from curling up. ? shoehorn helps slip your foot into the shoe without breaking its back.

The life of shoes can be prolonged with regu­lar D , s t , and a s

P

91

polishing shoe trees shoehorn

15. Finally, do not dry wet shoes by putting them on a hot radiator. The heat can dry out the natural oils in the leather and make it crack. Simply wipe off the shoes, put them on shoe trees and let them dry at room temper­ature.

hot room

permanent press

synthetic (polyester)

cotton

permanent press

Wet shoes should never be dried on a radiator but at temperature.

16. HOW TO CARE FOR PERMANENT PRESS CLOTHES: Permanently pressed shirts constitute the largest percentage of all shirts manufactured today. These shirts are beautiful as well as comfortable. Some are available in 100% cot­ton; however, the majority of shirts are blends of cotton and a synthetic fiber, such as polyester.

The largest percentage of all shirts manu­factured today have a finish called

and Usually they are blends of

fibers.

17- Every type of m.en' s v/ear item made of fabric is now available with a finish called permanent press. It is, therefore, very im­portant for you to knov/ how to get the maxi­mum performance from the permanent items.

Every type of men's wear item made of fabric is now available in a finish called

18. Today's washers usually have special permanent press settings for adjusting to a warm water temperature and a slov/er spinning speed in the water extraction cycle. Keep within the load limit of your v/asher. If you do not have a dryer and want to drip dry the garment, remove it after the last rinse before the spinning cycle.

Wash permanent press garments v/ith water temperature, spinning speed, and do not the washer.

warm slow overload

19. Automatic dryers provide the best per­formance for your permanentlx' pressed clothes. Dry garments together that have fabrics of

92

automatic overload dry

shortens stays

static electricity

optical brighteners

similar weight and DO NOT OVERLOAD, clothes as soon as they are dry.

Remove

For the best performance of permanent press garments, use an dryer. Do not

and they are

remove garments as soon as

20. Although it was once the rule, starch in shirts is now the exception. Starch actually shortens the life of a shirt collar and it really is not necessary because most modern shirts feature built-in collar stays to keep the collar points from curling up. Besides, tlie accent today is on comfort along with style,and nothing is more uncomfortable than a heavily-starched collar rubbing against the neck!

Starch actually the life of a shirt collar and it really is not necessary because of built-in collar .

21. Using a fabric softener is a matter of personal preference, but it v/ill get rid of static electricity.

Fabric softener will rid clothing of

22. Bluing is not necessary with those deter­gents which contain an optical brightener. If you want your clothes to have a light blue appearance like bluing gives, add it to the last rinse and make sure it is evenly dis­tributed.

Bluing has been replaced with detergents which contain that make your clothes look whiter and brighter.

23. ACCENT ON GOOD GROOxMING: A man's per­sonal habits of good grooming are just as important as his wardrobe needs. Every man should project an image of a clean-cut indi­vidual who cares about his appearance.

A man's are ju st as

habits of good grooming imoortant as his needs

93

personal wardrobe

clean

clean healthy daily

24. While longer length hair is popular to­day, particularly with younger men, one is apt to find it frowned upon in certain school or business circles. A good rule is to regu­late hair length to suit both yourself and your school or business associates. Keep hair clean at all times and tend it regularly with a not-too-greasy tonic.

Keep hair at all times and tend it regu­larly with a not-too-greasy tonic.

25. A man's complexion should have a clean healthy appearance. Daily shaving is essen­tial, of course, but often a man's skin needs more: perhaps a lotion if the skin is dry, an astringent if it is oily, or even an occa­sional sun lamp treatment. After shave lotions contain special ingredients to tone, heal,and soothe skin after shaving.

A man's complexion should be _ . Part of his skin

that is essential is

and care program

shaving.

26. Colognes scented for men are becoming popular both for social and business engage­ments. Additional items of good grooming are the deodorant products that keep a man fresh around the clock.

social business

spotlessly short straight

Men's colognes are popular both for and engagements.

27. Hands, too, require special care. In addition to being spotlessly clean, nails should be trimmed short and straight across. A brush will guarantee clean nails and will also help scrub away rough calluses.

Hands should be trimmed and

clean with nails across.

28. And speaking of hands, always remember that a man should give a firm, strong, friendly handshake!

Remember that a man should give a ^ , handslialiL I

94

firm strong friendly

REVIEW QUESTIONS: HOW TO CARE FOR YOUR INVESTMENT

1* Spots and stains in clothing should be removed from clothes.

2. Suit jacket shoulder fit is maintained by the use of a wooden hanger.

3. Garment fibers will rest during proper hanging.

when given a

4. Unnecessary items in pockets pull the suit out of ,

5, If slacks are suspended by the cuffs, gravity helps pull the straight and removes wrinkles.

6. The part of the shirt that tends to wear out first is the .

7, Always put your best foot forward in well- shoes.

8, Wet shoes should be dried at temperature.

9. Every type of men's wear item made of fabric is now available in a finish called

10. The majority of permanent press shirts are blends of and fibers such as polyester.

11. Wash permanent press shirts garments with water temperature, spinning speed, and do not washer.

the

12. Fabric softener will rid clothing of

13. A man's habits of good groom­ing are just as important or even ir.a-be more important than his needs.

9 5

14. Hands should be clean with nails trimmed and across.

15. Remember that a man should give a , , handshake.

If you finish this programmed lesson before the class period is over:

1, Review all the previous lessons.

96

APPENDIX B

CRITERION EXAMINATION

REVIEW SHEET,,,"WHAT IS YOUR MEN'S FASHION I,Q,?

Instructions: Record each answer on the answer sheet by blackening the correct letter. Choose the BEST answer and erase mistakes completely,

1. The men's fashion revolution is largely: a) a younger man's movement; b) a middle-aged man's movement; c) an older man's movement.

2. Shirt collar size corresponds to: a) distance between collar points; b) height of shirt band; c) inches around neck.

3. Changing suits each day allows: a) dirt to escape; b) fibers to realign; c) stains to dry up.

4. Good suit jacket fit begins at the: a) shoulders; b) thumJD tips; c) v/aistline.

5. A popular shirt collar style is the: a) dickey; b) long point, wide spread; c) "Thorton,"

6. A handshake should be: a) firm, strong, and friendly; b) given even though the person is not sincere; c) strong but not necessarily with a smile.

7. Modern automatic washers have: a) drip dryers; b) hot temperatures; c) special permanent press settings.

8. A business suit requires: a) dress shirt and tie; b) knit shirt; c) sport shirt.

9. A man's nails should be trimmed: a) long and pointed; b) rounded in the center; c) short and straight across.

10. Coordinates are: a) overcoats and umbrellas; b) sport jackets and slacks; c) swimsuits and tee shirts.

11. Big men with thick necks should wear shirts with: a) mod­erate spread, long point collars; b) short point collars; c) wide spread collars.

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12. The number of basic clothing styles modern man has a choice of is: a) three; b) five; c) nine.

13. Fashion correctness demands attention to: a) the Mod Look; b) the Total Look; c) the Uninhibited Look.

14. Sportswear popularity can be traced to: a) poor taste; b) the increase in leisure time; c) warm areas.

15. Shoes should be stored in: a) original box; b) shoe-trees; c) warm areas,

16. Shirt collar points should: a) curl outward; b) lie flat against the shirt; c) roll inward,

17. In sport shirts, today's emphasis is on: a) color; b) texture; c) color and texture,

18. "Body" shirts offer: a) fullness at waistline; b) trim tapered lines; c) very wide armholes,

19. Leisure wear includes: a) blazers; b) Norfolk jackets; c) both of the above,

20. Shirt sleeves should extend beyond jacket sleeves: a) 1/2 to 3/4 inch; b) 1 to 2 inches; c) 3 to 4 1/2 inches.

21. The most popular shirt material is: a) cotton with a permanent press finish; b) cotton and synthetic blend with a permanent press finish; c) nylon with a permanent press finish.

22. Texture means: a) color; b) how a fabric feels to the hand; c) the shape of the garment.

23. Men's dress compared to that of women's: a) has always been more colorful; b) has been more colorful during certain periods of history; c) has never been as color­ful.

24. Shaping is: a) a popular feature in men's fashion today; b) stove-pipe legs; c) no shoulder pads.

25. The life of your favorite sports jacket can be prolonged by: a) adding suede elbow patches over worn elbows; b) frequent brushing to remove the lint and dirt; c) hav­ing that tear rewoven by a professional dry cleaners; d) a, b, and c.

98

26. A striped shirt: a) can be worn with a striped tie or suit as long as the stripes vary from one another; b) can only be worn for informal affairs; c) can never be worn with a striped tie or suit,

27. Men with thin faces should wear shirts with: a) moder­ate spread, long point collars; b) short point collars; c) wide spread, short point collars.

28. Placing a handkerchief fashionably in the breast pocket can be done: a) by forming a soft bubble; b) by just using a square of cloth and a cardboard; c) by thought­ful jamming; d) a and c.

29. Each item of men's fashion should: a) harmonize to form the "total look"; b) stand by itself; c) both of the above.

30. Button-down shirts should be worn with: a) double-breasted suits; b) formal evening wear; c) sports jacket,

31. The newest colors of today's formal wear are: a) black and white; b) maroon, red, blue, and green; c) brown and gold.

32. Spots and stains should be removed from clothing: a) by a professional dry cleaners; b) promptly at home; c) whenever convenient.

33. Shirts should be laundered after: a) one; b) two; c) three; d) four wearings.

34. Ties should always be: a) hung knotted; b) hung un­knotted; c) stored in a drawer.

35. Most all shirts today: a) require blueing; b) do not require starch; c) require starch.

36. The poorer Norsemen: a) were prohibited by their gov­ernment to wear the skyrta; b) wore the fur skyrta; c) wore the wool or linen skyrta.

37. The thing most noticeable about a coordinated wardrobe is: a) harmony of color and texture; b) tJiat all the colors are the same; c) that each garment is eye­catching .

38. The object in planning a coordinated wardrobe is: a) to have enough money to buy more expensive clothes: b) to

99

39

40

provide variety through garments of all your favorite colors; c) to supply becoming and harmonious fashions for every occasion.

The new fashions being styled by designers and manu­facturers are: a) designed for the middle-aged; b) revolutionary; c) sparked by revolutionary young people who want freedom from old styles.

the In comparing two very similar shirts, select the answer that is NOT the reason one costs more than other: a) the prestige of a famous manufacturer's label; b) the shape of the shirt collar; c) the type of store from which it is purchased.

Multiple Choice: Choose the letter at the right which describes each term. Record the best answer on the answer sheet.

41. Body Shirt

42. Classic Styling

43. Forward Fashion

44. Mod Clothing

45. Points

46. Shaping

47. Spread

48. Style Zone

49. Traditional Styling

50 . Total Look

D.

E,

A, A nipping in of jacket waistline to create a slimmer silhouette.

B, Brilliantly colored and elabo­rately designed clothes from England.

C, Men's tailored clothing with forward-pitched shoulders, assertive shaping, lots of flair. Men's tailored clothing with natural, unpadded shoulders and extra seam stitching. Men's tailored clothing with simplified and styled-down, yet smart design.

F. One well-coordinated fashion appearance, created by all indi­vidual fashion items working together.

G- The distance between the collar points.

H. The distance from shirt neckband to collar tips.

I, The shirt designed to fit body lines closely and comfortably without blousing or bunching.

J. The "visual triangle" formed around a man's shirt, tie, and jacket lapels.

100

ANSWER SHEET

1. a b e d

2. a b e d

3. a b e d

4. a b e d

5. a b e d

6. a b e d

7. a b e d

8. a b e d

9. a b e d

10. a b e d

11. a b e d

12. a b e d

13. a b e d

14. a b e d

15, a b e d

16, a b e d

17, a b e d

18, a b e d

19, a b e d

20. a b e d

21, a b e d

22, a b e d

23, a b e d

24, a b e d

25, a b e d

2 6 .

2 7 .

2 8 ,

2 9 .

3 0 .

3 1 .

3 2 .

3 3 .

3 4 .

3 5 .

3 6 .

3 7 .

3 8 .

3 9 .

4 0 .

4 1 .

4 2 .

4 3 .

4 4 .

4 5 .

4 6 .

4 7 .

4 8 .

4 9 .

5 0 .

a b

a b

a b

a b

a b

a b

a b

a b

a b

a b

a b

a b

a b

a b

a b

c d

c d

c d

c d

c d

c d

c d

c d

c d

c d

c d

c d

c d

c d

c d

101

APPENDIX C

BACKGROUlNlD INFORMATION

1- Age: 2. Marital Status: single married

3. Classification: freshman ^sophomore junior senior

4. Major:

5. Religious Preference: Check one answer in each column.

Father Mother Yourself

Underline your preference.

1. Episcopalian, Congregational, Unitarian

2. Presbyterian, Quaker, Christian Science

3. Methodist, Christian Church 4. Baptist, Church of Christ 5. Roman Catholic, Lutheran 6. Jewish, Orthodox 7. Pentacostal, Gospel Tabernacle,

Free Methodist, Jehovah Witness 8. If other, please specify

6. Education: Indicate the highest level of formal educa­tion obtained by your parents with a check in each column

Father Mother

1. Completed advanced degree (Master's or above)

2. Completed college degree (Bachelor's) 3. Two or more years of college 4. Completed high school (includes trade,

secretarial school) 5. Some high school (at least one year) 6. Completed eighth grade 7. Some grammar school (all or any grades

1 to 7) 8. Does not apply

7. Parent's Occupation: a. What is your father's occupation? (If he is deceased

or retired, please give his former occu[^ation)

102

b. In two or three sentences, would you explain what he does?

c. What is your mother's occupation? (If she is de­ceased or retired, please give her former occupation.)

d. In two or three sentences, would you explain what she does?

8. Principle source of family income: Check one only.

a. From inherited savings and investments referred to as "old money"

b. From earned wealth referred to as "new money" c. From profits, fees, royalties: includes ownei,

managers, executives of businesses receiving a "share or profit"

d. From salary, commissions, regular income received on a monthly or yearly basis

e. From wages on hourly basis, piecework: weekly checks as distinguished from luonthly

f. From income from "odd" jobs or private relief: "sharecropping" or seasonal work

g. From public relief or charity

103

APPENDIX D

STUDENT RATING OF THE MEN'S FASHION PROGRAM

Please rate your reaction to the teaching method and Men's Fashion program by using this rating scale:

1 poor 2 fair 3 good 4 very good 5 superior

1. How would you rate the information about men's fashion?

1 2 3 4 5

2. Was the information on fashion something that was useful to you?

1 2 3 4 5

3, Was the information on consumer education useful to you?

1 2 3 4 5

4, How would you rate the method of learning used with your group,

1 2 3 4 5

5, Circle the word that best describes your reaction to the method of learning.

boring interesting very interesting