the essential good food guide- excerpt

7/28/2019 The Essential Good Food Guide- Excerpt

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The Complete Resource for Buying and Using

Whole Grains and Specialty Flours, Heirloom Fruits and Vegetables,

Meat and Poultry, Seafood, and More

The Essential

Good Food Guide

TEN SPEED PRESSBerkeley

MARGARET M. WITTENBERG

Photography by Jennifer Martin


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Contents

6 Introduction

10 Fruits and Vegetables

42 Grains, Flour, and Bread

124 Pasta and Noodles

136 Beans, Peas, Lentils, and Soy Products

169 Nuts and Seeds

194 Meat and Poultry

200 Seafood

207 Dairy Products and Eggs

217 Culinary Oils

235 Essential Seasonings

256 Sweeteners

279 Suggested Reading

282 Acknowledgments

288 Index


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Borough Market, Londons oldest fruit and vegetable

marketstill trading at the same location since 1755.

While I had been to all types of farmers markets

in the United States, never had I seen in one place

such artistry, craftsmanship, and simple beauty cel-

ebrating good food. Since then I have returned to

Borough Market several times, and have been to

many other markets around the world, each with its

own special flavor. And, at each one I have enjoyed

watching the people as much as encountering the

food; these experiences underscore for me the uni-

versal hunger for eating good food using whole food

ingredients to make both traditional and contem-

porary dishes as well as our appetite for exploring

foods not yet experienced.

Truly, throughout my life Ive had the good for-

tune to meet a number of extraordinary peoplefarmers and producers, home and professional

cooks and chefs, scientists, food experts and food

lovers worldwideall of whom have contributed

to the constant expansion of my knowledge and

deep appreciation of foodits extraordinary flavors

and what it takes to produce it. Continued access

to good food and good health requires everyones

commitment to working in concert with nature and

each other. Not only does this involve protecting the

health of the land through continual restoration ofthe soil, conservation practices, and the avoidance

of toxic chemicals, but also a commitment to the

sustainable wild capture or farming of seafood, and

the welfare of food producing animals from birth

through slaughter. Without a doubt: when it comes

to ecological sustainability and the opportunity for

eating well, we humans are intrinsically connected

to every element within the universe, including our

fellow creatures.

The Intrinsic Value

of Whole FoodsEvery day, discoveries are being made that under-

score the truth that keeping foods whole, not pro-

cessed or fractionated, is vital to our overall health

and well-being. Increasingly, we are learning thatisolated nutrients dont always have the same health

benefits as the whole foods from which they were

derived. And beyond the familiar vitamins and min-

erals most of us know about, whole plant foods,

including herbs and spices, contain an almost be-

wildering array of healthful compounds known as

phytonutrients or phytochemicals (phytomeans

plant). Pigments, flavor components, and aromatic

qualities that we once thought were primarily of

benefit to plantshelping them either to betterflourish or to protect themselveshave turned out

to be powerful antioxidants that can help moder-

ate damage to our own cells. Phytonutrients have

also been found to enhance our immune response,

help repair DNA damage from toxic exposures, and

enhance cell to cell communication. Unlike pro-

tein, fat, vitamins, and minerals, the vast array of

phytonutrients may not be essential for keeping us

alive, but their positive effects on health, such as

helping prevent cancer and reducing inflammation

are unmistakable and certainly make living life that

much more enjoyable.

Some of the most studied phytonutrients may

sound familiar:

Carotenes, including alpha- and beta-

carotenes, beta-cryptoxanthin, lutein,

lycopene, and zeaxanthin as found in red,

orange, and yellow vegetables and fruits

Polyphenols,including flavonoids

(anthocyanins, catechins, flavanones, and

isoflavones) and nonflavonoids (ellagic acid,

coumarins, tannins, and lignans) as found

in a wide variety of fruits, vegetables, beans,

nuts, whole grains, tea, culinary herbs and

spices, dark chocolate, and red wine


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Isothiocyanatesand indoles,as found

in cruciferous vegetables such as cabbage,

broccoli, arugula, chard, kale, bok choy,

collard greens, cauliflower, rutabaga, turnips,

radishes, watercress, and brussels sprouts

Scientific studies have repeatedly shown the

powerful positive effects of eating a good diet, start-ing from the maternal nutrition we receive while

still in the womb and continuing through all stages

of life, including our senior years. Eating a good,

nutritious diet high in phytonutrients, maintain-

ing a healthy weight, and getting sufficient exercise

are essential for reducing the incidence of myriad

chronic noncommunicable heath conditions such

as cardiovascular disease, hypertension, stroke,

diabetes, cancer, dental diseases, and osteoporosis.

And a good diet is not a numbers game involv-ing basing ones diet choices on how high or low

a food is in fat, cholesterol, sodium, and the like.

Food manufacturers can process food in a variety of

ways to make it look good on a nutrition facts label,

but that doesnt mean the food within the package

is inherently nutritious or even good for you. The

lowest rates of coronary heart disease, certain types

of cancers, and other diet-related chronic diseases

have been found in cultures where the everyday

diet is based primarily on whole foods. This dietis high in fruits, vegetables, whole grains, whole

grain breads and pastas, beans, nuts and seeds, and

includes some unrefined healthy oils. It has low

amounts of eggs, red meat, fish, poultry, and dairy

products in the form of cheese and yogurt. Not only

is eating such a diet the most nutritiousremember

that phytonutrients are present only in whole plant

foodsit is also the most deliciouswhich helps

motivate us to maintain such a diet. The trick is to

know all the fabulous good food possibilities avail-able in every category of food.

And that is exactly what this book is all about.

Rather than being about what foods to avoid and

why, it is an introduction to or a reminder of what

good food is and what to do with it.It is a weaving

together of descriptions, cooking suggestions, and

just enough history, food science, and nutrition to

give a glimpse of the wonders each food has to offer.

It is an appreciation of food for its possibilities: its

bringing together of people to the table, its melding

of cultures, its nourishment of body and soul, its

celebration of the people and plants that make itall happen, and, of course, its extraordinary flavors.

Each chapter focuses on specific foods and related

ideas that I personally have found to be essential to

an intuitive style of wholesome, delicious cooking.

Youll experience an abundant world of food within

these pages, which I hope will serve as a catalyst for

the development of your own natural connection

to foods. Your path of discovery will bring you not

only sheer enjoyment but also better health and

well-being.Now, its time to turn the page and get out your

fork. Explore and enjoy the possibilities!

Dried beans


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brown rice and in soups, stews, and pilafs. Kichadi

is a classic Indian dishbeans and rice are cooked

together along with a variety of spices such as cinna-

mon, cloves, cardamom, and turmeric. Mung beans

that are peeled and split, which makes them look

yellow, are called moong dal.

NAVY BEANS

Phaseolus vulgarisBoil and simmer for 1 to 2 hours.

These small, white, oval-shaped, mild-flavored

beans are considered a staple for soups, stews, and

baked bean dishes. Likewise, they are also good for

purees and sandwich spreads. As their name implies,

sailors have long been more than familiar with the

many ways navy beans can be served; they were

a key component of US Navy rations during the

nineteenth century. Pea beans are a smaller version

of navy beans, although often the two names are

used interchangeably.

PEAS

Phaseolus sativum

Boil and simmer for 1 to 1 hours for whole peasand 1 to 1 hours for split peas.

Pressure-cooking isnt recommended.

Peas have a long legacy in the human diet, going

back to around 8000 BCE. Dried peas arent a dried

version of the peas we generally consume as a fresh

vegetable; rather, they are a different variety with a

Heirloom beans, from top: (1) Arikara yellow, (2) christmas limas, (3) dapple gray, (4) scarlett runner, (5) snowcap,

(6) anasazi, (7) butterscotch steuben yellow-eye, (8) eye of the goat, (9) rio zape, (10) appaloosa, (11) borlotti,

(12) rattlesnake, (13) tepary, (14) black calypso, (15) good mother stallard, (16) jackson wonder, (17) tiger eye

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2 3

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15 16 17


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,

,

,

higher starch content. Both green and yellow dried

peas are available; they are often split. Although they

are cooked similarly and are comparable nutrition-

ally, green peas have an overall earthier flavor, while

yellow peas taste milder and sweeter. Whole peas

can be used in casseroles or as a side dish, or bepureed and made into spreads, dips, and croquettes.

Whole peas should be soaked before cooking. Split

peas have their skins removed by a machine, then

are sent to another machine to be split in half. Al-

though split peas dont require presoaking, if you

soak them for at least 30 minutes theyll keep their

shape after cooking. Still, the creaminess achieved

from unsoaked peas is the texture that most people

expect and find most appealing.

PERUANO BEANS

Phaseolus vulgaris

Boil and simmer for 1 to 2 hours.

Plump, medium size and canary yellow in color, the

peruano bean, also known as Mayacoba or canary

bean, is a common bean served in many parts of

Mexico that merits familiarity and admiration far

beyond those borders. Slightly sweet, its flavor can

best be described as a cross between great northern

and pinto beans. Although thin skinned, it has agreat meaty texture and holds its shape very well

after cooking. Peruano beans are excellent as a pot

bean and ideal as a featured part of the plate served

along with rice or other grains. Try them also in

salads, or even in soups and stews.

PIGEON PEAS

Vigna unguiculata

Boil and simmer for 1 hour.

Most commonly used in Caribbean and African cui-sines, pigeon peas are small, oval, and beige in color

with light brown speckles and a nutty, somewhat

strong earthy flavor and mealy texture. Because

they cook fairly quickly, pigeon peas are commonly

cooked together with rice, or cooked ahead and

served with seasoned rice, usually with hot, asser-

tive seasonings.

PINK BEANS

Phaseolus vulgaris


These small, oval, pale pink beans, which turn red-

dish brown when cooked, are used extensively in

Caribbean cooking, where theyre served with rice.Their rich, somewhat sweet flavor and smooth tex-

ture also account for their common use in Southwest-

ern cuisine. While they can be used interchangeably

with pinto beans in any recipe, pink beans hold

their shape better when cooked. Definitely a versa-

tile bean, pink beans are great no matter how they

are used, be it in soups, stews, casseroles, chili, or

refried beans, or, of course, with rice.

PINQUITO BEANS

Phaseolus vulgaris


An heirloom variety of the pink bean hailing from

the 1800s, the pinquito (or Santa Maria pinquito)

bean is as pink and as small as its name would sug-

gest. It is celebrated as an essential component of

the Santa Maria Style Barbecue menu, a regional

tradition in the Santa Maria valley in Santa Barbara

County on the Central Coast of California, the area

in which the pinquito bean is grown. Its flavor issimilar to pinto beans and as it holds its shape dur-

ing cooking, it is an excellent choice for recipes

that call for long simmering, including chili, baked

beans, soups, and stews.

PINTO BEANS

Phaseolus vulgaris

Boil and simmer for 1 hours.

In Spanish, the wordpintomeans painted, an apt

description for these oblong beans with a mottledsalmon pink and brown pattern. One of the more

frequently used beans in Southwestern cuisine and

enjoyed for their mild, nutty, earthy flavor, they have

a mealy texture that makes particularly good refried

beans. A natural served with rice, pinto beans are

also great in dips, soups, chili, and stews.


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CRIMINI

Also known as Italian brown mushrooms, criminis

are closely related to the common button mush-

room. In fact, they are variants of the same species,

Agaricus bisporus, but criminis are much richer in

flavor and meatier in texture, primarily due to their

lower moisture content. Use them as you would

white button mushrooms, raw or cooked.

ENOKI

These are mild-flavored, creamy white mushrooms

with long slender stems and very small round caps.

Originally grown on the stumps of the enoki tree

in the mountains of Japan, enoki mushrooms are

now commercially produced on a growing medium

of moist sawdust and rice bran packed into plastic

containers. Their crisp, tender texture makes them

a delicious raw addition to salads. If using them

in a stir-fry or other cooked dish, stir them in just

before serving to preserve their exceptional texture.

HEDGEHOG

Hedgehog mushrooms are wild orange-gold mush-

rooms with a cap that has a depression in the middle.

They are characterized by tiny spindles on the un-

derside of the cap. Their wonderful flavor and dry

texture is reminiscent of chanterelles, for which they

can be substituted. Braise, roast, or saut them, and

because theyre a bit dry, cover the pan so they can

simmer in their own juices.

LOBSTER

These mushrooms are known for their distinctive

red exterior color, which gives some understand-

ing of the origin of its name, but it turns out that

lobster mushrooms really arent mushrooms at allbut, rather a fungus living on a couple of species of

mushrooms (Russulaand Lactariusgenera), both of

which, ironically, would otherwise be unpalatable.

Still, they are prepared as if they were mushrooms,

primarily providing color and a firm, meaty texture

to dishes. The lobsters natural flavor is mild, but it

readily absorbs flavor from other foods its cooked

with. The red exterior and white interior colors of the

lobster mushroom remain present in its dried form.

MAITAKE

Also known as hen-of-the-woods, maitake are a

smoky brown color and look somewhat like a head

of curly lettuce or perhapswith a little imagina-

tion and a nod to its nicknamefeathers. Maitake

can grow to immense sizesover fifty pounds! Its

texture, when cooked, is tender but firm, and its

flavor is somewhat earthy and nutty. Cut maitake

as you would a cauliflower, breaking it into wedges

or clumps and cleaning them thoroughly before

cookinga task more critical for wild varieties than

cultivated. Indigenous to both North America and

Japan, it is very good in Japanese-inspired soups

and dishes. Although its best braised, stewed, or

cooked in a sauce, it can also be roasted. Or saut it

with onions, covering the pan for a few minutes in

the middle of the process to allow the mushroom to

become tender and absorb juices and flavors.

MATSUTAKE

With a name meaning pine mushroom, this highly

prized wild mushroom grows primarily under pine

or fir trees the Pacific Northwest, gathered in the

fall and winter. It is white or brown in color with

a firm, short broad stem. With its meaty texture,

powerful and distinctive piney aroma, and earthy,

subtly smoky, spicy flavor, it is best prepared simply

roasted, steamed, or grilled. It has a special affinity

with Japanese cuisine. Store for up to a couple of

days in a basket in a single layer, covered with a

towel. Matsutakes are also available dried.

MORELS

Morels, which look like elongated sponges or hon-

eycombs with stems, can be yellow, brown, or black.

Gathered from woodland areas during the spring,

particularly within recently burned forests, morels

have a deep, earthy, nutty, smoky flavor and a crisp,

chewy texture that is terrific with creamy sauces,

pasta, rice dishes, fish, or poultry. For optimal flavor


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and texture, use them quickly after purchase. Dried

morels are also available.

OYSTER

These are fan-shaped mushrooms that grow onthe trunks and limbs of trees. True to their name,

these mildly flavored mushrooms look somewhat

like oyster shells. Lightly saut them and add to

sauces, soups, pasta, and rice. French horn(or king

trumpet) mushrooms are a particularly large variety

of oyster mushrooms. Long and conical in shape,

French horns have a thick, meaty texture and a taste

reminiscent of sweet, buttery, nutty-flavored por-

cini. They are delicious sauted, braised, or roasted.

POM-POM

Also called bears head or lions mane, pom-poms

look like small heads of cauliflower with a slightly

furry texture. Their delicate flavor is enhanced when

baked whole or sliced and sauted.

PORCINI

Also known as king boletes or cpes, porcini are

woodland mushrooms gathered during late sum-

mer to late fall. Light brown in color with flat, very

large caps and chunky stems, they are prized for

their rich, meaty, nutty, assertive flavor. Instead ofgills underneath the cap, as found in many other

mushrooms, this variety of mushroom has a spongy

layer consisting of pores and tubelike crevices. Grill

the caps, or slice them and braise or saut for adding

to sauces or pasta and grain dishes. Dried porcinis

are also highly valued.

PORTOBELLO

These mushrooms are very flavorful, meaty-

textured, dark brown Italian mushrooms whosebroad flat caps range from three to eight inches in

diameter. Unlike their cousins, criminis and com-

mon button mushrooms, which are picked while

their gills are still enclosed, portobello mushrooms

are picked when their gills are fully exposed. Some-

times referred to as vegetarian steak, portobellos

are exceptional when marinated and grilled. They

can also be sliced and sauted with olive oil or butter

and seasonings such as tamari or rosemary. Serve

the slices with a thick piece of crusty bread or asa side dish.

SHIITAKE

Shiitakes have a woodsy, almost smoky flavor and

meatlike texture, making them a favorite in both

Asian and Western dishes. They are named from

their origins in Japan, where theyre grown on the

wood of the shii tree; in other parts of the world they

are grown on wood from other varieties of oak. Just a

few shiitakes will impart a delicious flavor to soups,stews, stir-fries, and pasta dishes. Because they have

a tendency to dry out and burn easily, for maximum

flavor and meatiness, keep the caps whole or cut

them in bite-size chunks rather than slicing them.

When cooking, first lightly saut them, then simmer

in a little liquid until dry. Eat the caps only, and use

the tough, woody stems for stock. Herbs and spices

Oyster mushrooms


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Copyright 1995, 2007, 2013 by Margaret M. Wittenberg

Photographs copyright 2013 by Jennifer Martin

All rights reserved.

Published in the United States by Ten Speed Press, an imprint of

the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York.

www.crownpublishing.com

www.tenspeed.com

Ten Speed Press and the Ten Speed Press colophon areregistered trademarks of Random House, Inc.

Previous editions of this work were published as Good Food: The Complete Guide to

Eating Wellby The Crossing Press, Freedom, California, in 1995, and as New Good Food:

Essential Ingredients for Cooking and Eating Wellby Ten Speed Press, in Berkeley,

California, in 2007.

Instructions on page 67 courtesy of the Carolina Gold Rice Foundation

Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data is on file with the publisher

ISBN 978-1-60774-434-4eBook ISBN 978-1-60774-435-1

Printed in China

Cover and text design by Sarah Adelman

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Third Edition


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