The Far Pavilion_a climbers guide by Josef Goding 30.05.2006Mt Fox

Band of Gypsies Red Rocks

Text V7, Josef Goding 30.05.2006Victoria Gap 128797Walking Time: 45-60 minutesUphill, pleasant stroll on a reasonably well-marked trackSun in afternoon, Cold in the mornings

RaveThis cliff has a beautiful setting high in the Victoria Range above Mt Fox, Red Rocks and Crag X. Views over The Grandstand, Black Ians, and as far as Arapiles can be had on a good day. Eagles soar on by, many kangaroos and the odd emu can be seen on the walk in across the flat plain. It is usual to be alone as the long but very pleasant walk in is enough to put most people off. The Pav as it is known to those who love it is an ideal summer crag. In the morning it stays cool, but once midday hits most areas are in full sun and you start to melt, so early afternoon is a great time to head to the close by rock pools.

Immaculate grey rock leers upwards with a tantalizing web of cracks and seams creating an almost endless array of sustained wall climbing. Even the most exposed face is generally well protected by surface wires beind the tortise shell flakes. Some of the harder routes are un-doubtably some of the best trad protected face routes in Australia. A full rack is recommended. Strong lines up large appealing faces abound. There are some sustained outings such as the 2-pitch classics The Cold War (23***) and The Iron Curtain (24***), which both tackle the main face as well as some one-pitch routes for those keen for a less committed adventure. There is scope for a fair few new routes at the time of writing. Generally the rock is quite solid, however some sandy loose sections can be found so take care. Descent via the main wall is a 15min walk off from the rear and left side, down a large gully.

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1 There has been some talk of rap stations for the main wall, but to date nothing has come to fruition. Above the Bliss pinnacle there is a rap station which services Bliss Direct (20*), Absorbed in stone (18) , For Old Times Sake (12*) and Happy Wanderer (15*). It is 25m to the ground from the top of the pinnacle.

Discovered in 1984 by Chris Baxter and Mike Stone, Going down in flames (15) brought the Far Pavilion to life. Steve Monks, Louise Shepherd and Keith Lockwood visited in 1989/1990, adding the classic test piece The Cold War (23***) and the more moderate Kava Boy (19**) and Far Horizons (15). The Far Pavilion then went into hibernation for a long time. It was Michael Hamp-ton who started the resurgence of new routes by introducing Nick Kiraly, Steve Holloway, Josef Goding, Mark Rewi, Geoff Gledhill and a bunch of others to the cliff. Steve quickly set to with Naming Rights (16), Propaganda (19*), Synthetic Venetian (22*) and later the 3-pitch 500 Days (21*,19,17**) with Damien Heath. Nick Kiraly added the sustained stunning line of The Iron Curtain (24***) as well as Siegeing Babylon (23*) and The Battle of Ever-more (24**) with Mark Rewi. Josef Goding and Geoff Gledhill established Happy Wanderer (15*), Bliss (17**), For Old Times Sake (12*), Beer, Brie & Waku Beef Sausages Maketh The Man (20*) and Absorbed in Stone (18). Neil Monteith quickly snapped up Karienina (22**) with Hannah Lockie on their first visit, which is supposed to be likened to an easier version of Archimedes Principle. Mark Added Bliss Left wall Variant (20*) and was involved in many 1st ascents including Sieging Babylon (23) and The Battle of Evermore (24*). One major highlight in summer are the beautiful rock pools (of which there are three nice, decent size ones) in Red Rock Creek (nth branch). Fantastic views can be had from this location. A big thank you to Michael Hampton for introducing me and a bunch of friends to this wonderful area, and also making available material from his forthcoming Victoria Ranges Guidebook. There are many new routes still awaiting those keen enough to brave the moderate walk in…enjoy.

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ApproachPark as for Band of Gypsies (about 1500m South of where Muline Creek crosses Red Rock Road, and around 700m south of the Mt Fox parking area). The obvious cliffs of Red Rock are your guide. Walk across the lovely open paddocks (Gaiters recommended during spring/summer/autumn as there can be many nasty thorny grass seeds!). Stay well left of Red Rocks (as for Band of Gypsies) and once over the open fields a vague track will appear. *There is a road just East of the fence line running from Mt Fox to Red Rocks (Nth-Sth), and the start of the track to both Band of Gypsies and The Far Pavilion is around 150m Nth from where the road runs out (at it most southern point). After a gentle meander through the trees (not well marked) the track becomes much clearer and steeper. This will take you to Band of Gypsies in around 15 minutes. There is a major boulder, which you pass by, and a fork in the track. Right takes you to Band of Gypsies, Left to the Far Pavilion. Follow this well cairned track up the hill for about 5mins, crest the rise, down and over a dry creek bed and then wander around the track until you get your first good view of The Far Pavilion about 10-15 minutes later. There are some large trees that have fallen down in this point. If you head due South here (there are a few cairns now) you will reach the fantastic rock pools, which are excellent after a hot summer’s day. In winter forget it, they can be freezing! OK – continue towards the Far Pavil-ion (lots more cairns). At the time of writing the only section of track that is not well marked is the last bit, and it does wander a fair bit so take your time. You will hit the cliff on the right side of the main wall, but it’s easy to cut left too early and end up at the Lost Pavilion, so take care!.

Refer to the following photo-topos of this cliff:

The Far Pavilion_1_V6: Left Side DetailThe Far Pavilion_2_V8: Main Wall (Good Overview)The Far Pavilion_3_V6: Main Wall Detail (Photo from the right side)The Far Pavilion_4_V3: Main Wall Detail (Photo-montage of Glas-nost area)The Far Pavilion_5_V4: Kava Boy Area Detail

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The Far Pavilion_6_V5: Overview (includes the Lost Pavilion)The Far Pavilion_7_V3: Main Wall Detail (Photo from large boul-der opposite)

Climbs described from L (highest point) to R.

All photos by Josef Goding unless otherwise credited.

Cover Photos: Top: Approach showing Mt Fox (left) and Red Rocks (right).Lower left: Mark Rewi working his project * P2 of The Iron Curtain is to the left. The line to the right is as yet unclimbed. Middle bottom: Nic Kiraly belayed by Peter Mills on The Cold War (23***) – photo by Rob BoothLower right: Nic Kiraly on the fantastic first pitch of The Iron Curtain (24***)

The Routes - Left Side: The top of all routes bar number 1 can be accessed round left of this massive roof in about 8 mins.

1 = *Beer, Brie and Waku Beef Sausages Maketh the Man 30m 20 Starts at the far left of the Far Pavilion at a slabby wall and finish-ing up an attractive left leaning diagonal crack just right of a huge roof. Climb slab with tricky thin move at about 8m to steepening. Up with some difficulty to stance, diagonally left with sustained moves in airy position. Fun climbing with good gear and good rock. 2 x 120cm slings around large spike get you to the ground. A DBB/Rap would be better as the slings won’t last for long. *Origi-nally led on a 60m rope – not much slack left, but might be pos-sible on a 50m rope, and you can’t easily walk off as it’s a detached high pillar. Josef Goding, Lawrie Cowley, Paul Taulien, Peter Mills, Ro Packer. 12-11-05

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2 = Absorbed in Stone 35m 18Sustained, delicate and consistently absorbing, but not in the same league as Bliss. A few loose and sandy sections will hopefully tidy up after some traffic. 1) 18m (16) As for Bliss’s to it’s 2nd bolt, then left to good hold on middle of wall. Place high nuts on R wall, then traverse over chimney and up a vague weakness (L-leaning diago-nal) to arête (poor pro), where there’s a sideways good nut place-ment on the arête just before the ledge. Mantel onto ledge to belay. 2) 17m (crux) Up crack, which saves its best and hardest till the bitter end. Josef Goding, Geoff Gledhill (alt) 26-11-05

Absorbed in Stone direct (Project) Expect grade 23. About 3m left of Bliss up past one FH and some very thin moves to better holds and a BR. Some natural gear in the crack and you’re at the ledge and belay.

3 = *For Old Times Sake 30m 12The obvious deep chimney in large corner is enjoyable the whole way. A bit run out and delicate, although good holds and gear do pop up, they are just not obvious from the ground. Up chimney for around 22m till you reach a nice corner hidden high on the R wall. Up this to belay. Geoff Gledhill, Josef Goding 26-11-05

4 = *Bliss Left Wall Variant 30m 20Classy face climbing. Share the start of Bliss to 2nd BR. Traverse left on good holds to middle of face. Blast up on unlikely holds past another BR to join the arête, and finish as for Bliss. Mark Rewi, Nicholas Kiraly, Matthew Shepley 27-11-05

5 = **Bliss 28m 17Beaut moves in an excellent position on good rock. The sweeping arête to the R of For Old Times Sake. Step R off block past BR to gain arête/ledge. Delicately past BR to good holds. Swing round the arête to the R then carefully up the slab and back L to the arête. Up the line to a dramatic but easy finish past a last BR. Josef Goding, Geoff Gledhill 26-11-05

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5 6 = * Happy Wanderer 35m 15Quality climbing. Start as for For Old Times Sake to good nuts on R wall. Traverse R to the corner past arête (where “Bliss heads back left to join the arête), stay with the corner till the end. Good gear and interesting climbing. 2nd bypassed the chimney start, and went for the “Bliss” alternative which was very pleasant indeed. Geoff Gledhill, Josef Goding 27-11-05

The Main Wall starts here. Most routes descend by walking off over the back of the main wall into the major gully to the right (facing out from the cliff), which takes around 15mins.

7 = Let the Fun Begin 55m 16Wall to L of Kava Boy 1) (16) Climb chimney between slab and wall, past first thrutchy section, then step right onto wall. Up wall, with rock getting better as height is gained, tending right to belay below small corner on near arête. 2) (16) Up corner, step left, then straight up wall to final off width crack, which can be avoided on the right. Descent via main wall walk off via major gully. Nic Kiraly, Steve Holloway (alt) 29-10-05

8 = ** Kava Boy 60m 19Apparently named after a Mills & Boon book. (Louise’s favorite reading matter?) Towards the L end of the main wall is a steep right leaning diagonal crack-line leading up to a prominent hang-ing buttress. Start just around the arête on the left. 1) 20m (crux) Climb a steep R-leaning diagonal crack, then swing around the arête and up to belay stance on sloping ledge. 2) 30m (17) Climb straight up the line to the hanging buttress and up the corner on its right side (mind loose rock). 3) 10m (19) Step left from belay and up bouldery wall to top (poor pro). Descent via main wall walk off down major gully. Louise Shepherd, Steve Burke 2-12-89

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The 'Scramble off right' for Karenina, Seiging Babylon and Brave New World is recommended as roped climbing rather than scrambling as it’s very exposed and perhaps grade 12. From this exit point walk off as for all other main wall routes.

9 = ** Karenina 65m22 A sustained and direct line straight up the face right of Kava Boy. The second pitch is like an easier version of Archimedes Principle. Located about 6m left of Far Horizons on the right side of arête. 1) 20m 22 – Up left facing flake crack for a few meters and step left (BR) to gain seam crack. Up this crack which turns briefly into a runnel (#3 SLCD) to second BR and reachy move to gain continua-tion of cracks. Belay at same stance as end of Kava Boy pitch one. 2) 30m 22 - Up Kava Boy for 5m then step right 3m onto the unlikely cracked face. Up this for 8m to horizontal weakness, dogleg right then left (crux) then continue up the amazing wall (between the two corners) to belay on ledge at end of Kava Boy pitch 2. Bring lots of wires for this pitch. FFA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 11.12.2005 (pitch 1) 9.4.2006 (pitch 2)

10 = *Propaganda 60m 15/191) (15) Climb Far Horizon to bushy ledge, step L onto detached block (scary), traverse L on fantastic holds to base of Kava Boy's upper crack. Up this for a few meters to a semi hanging belay. 2) (19) - Continue up crack, taking L branch, which becomes a steep curving hand crack (crux) to stance on arête. Step back R on great holds and onwards to top. Walk off as for main wall descent down major gully. Nick Kiraly, Steve Holloway (alt) 29-10-05

11 = **Siegeing Babylon 23. Nice face climbing to gain the central crack. Follow Far Horizons to the 'impending block of doom'. Diagonally left up flakes in middle of wall until holds run out. Move L then up with trepidation to gain horizontal. Easily up central crack. Mark Rewi, Steve Holloway, Nicholas Kiraly 2/06 (a couple of previous attempts succumbed to aid)

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7 12 = *Little Johnny Warpig 18 Takes second corner crack to the right of Kava Boy. As for Far Horizons to belay ledge, continue for a few meters up short clean corner, step left to base of crack. Up corner crack to belay on terrace. Rope scramble off right. Steve Holloway, Mark Rewi, Nic Kiraly 18-02-2006

13 = Hairy Legs 55m 15Just a route. 1) As for Far Horizons. 2) 25m Go directly up wall between Far Horizons and the corner. Michael Hampton, Martin Tatton (alt) 29-10-05

14 = Far Horizons 60m 15The easy central section of the main wall, 25m L of Glasnost, offers pleasant climbing. Pro is spaced on the first pitch. 1) 30m The groove system below the major corner is climbed to a belay on the R wall. 2) 30m Traverse R to the obvious cracked arête. Up crack easily to overhang near the top. Up L side of overhang, then step airily R to finish up short corner. Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth (alt) and Robert Marshall 30-12-89

15 = ** 500 Days 21An ambitious program to overcome the economic crisis in the Soviet Union by means of transition into market economy. Also relates to how much time we seem to be spending at this amazing crag. 1st pitch (21*) 25m. Climb Glasnost past FH (crux) to flake. Up flake for a few moves, place high nut/cam then delicate traverse left to belay at ledge below flake/corner system immedi-ately left of second orange streak on Glasnost wall. 2nd pitch (19) 20m. Climb steep flake corner (bold), over bulge and straight up to semi hanging belay at base of scooped upper wall (right of upper trench/crack of Far Horizons). 3rd pitch (17**) 20m. Climb middle of scooped slabby wall 3-5m right of Far Horizons tending right, gain RH hand traverse, find hidden holds to escape (up) before arête. Straight up to belay on top. Steve Holloway (Pitches 1 & 2) Damien Heath (Pitch 3) 16.04.2006.

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16 = * Glastnost 50m 24A meaty route, but one that pales before the tremendous Cold War. 1) 25m Up vertical crack in wall about 15m L of the Cold War. Balance up past BR and up to a flake. Pull up L on to ledge. Climb overhanging wall just R of orange streak (crux) to a belay stance. 2) 25m Follow crack-line up shallow concave wall (prominent feature). At the top, move R and up to jugs. Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood (alt) 27-1-90

17 = *** The Cold War 60m 23Takes the subtle arête in the centre of the main grey wall. 1) 30m Start up the corner on the R, then climb diagonally L up the wall to the start of the arête. Up steeply to stance. 2) 30m Straight up arête. Steve Monks, Keith Lockwood 2-12-89. (Editor’s note: Peter Mills and Nic Kiraly raved about this route for almost 2 weeks after repeating it. The words “Awesome”, “stunning” and “mindblowing” could be heard repeatidly for the entire night after this ascent. God knows what Steve & Keith’s friends had to endure! Needless to say it is sensational and a must do for solid grade 23 leaders).

18 = ** The Battle of Evermore (24)A great climb but without the purity of The Iron Curtain (even though it shares much of the best climbing). 1. 25m (23) As for The Iron Curtain. 2. 30m (24) Continue up shallow corner (crux) to gain diagonal above. Follow this left through overlap with difficulty and up to finish at top of cliff. Gear as for Iron Curtain Nic Kiraly, Mark Rewi 2/06.

19 = *** The Iron Curtain (24)A brilliant and well-protected climb. Start as for The Cold War. 1. 25m (23*) Climb corner, then step left onto wall and directly above rock ‘fin’ to gain crack. Climb this to belay at horizontal break.2. 27m (24***) Continue up shallow corner (crux) and exit onto wall above. Step right into corner system and follow this up. Beneath the overlap avoid pulling on the loose block; you’ll need it to stand on! Gear: Wires, small and medium cams up to 1 camalot. P1 Nicholas Kiraly, Mark Rewi, Josef Goding 12/05. P2 Nicholas Kiraly, Mark Rewi 2/06 (Note: This took around 5 months of solid attempts to bag the 1st ascent. A very dedicated leader rightly got his glorious prize after much hard work).

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9 The line to the right of Iron Curtain has 6 bolts and is a project. Expect grade 26.

The next two routes have problematic exits up a desperate, dirty, hard (about grade 23) unprotected steep slab which needless to say takes away considerably from any enjoyable climbing to be had before this point. A rap station on the common ledge could perhaps be added to aleviate this. At the time of writing this has not yet been facilitated by the 1st asceni-onst - but some encouragement for him to do so has been suggested... time will tell.

20 = *Synthetic Venetian 30m 22Starts on same terraced area as 'Downtime'. Takes right hand crack/corner line on main wall. Start off block in 'crevasse', move up to undercling, step left, up cracked wall with good nuts to bulge. Over bulge, (good nuts #6 in left seam, #4 in right - placed on rappel) to crimpy crux. Move left to flake and onto base of crack. Up excellent crack to closed corner, step right at top of crack, bridge up to good stance and rest. Move right under roof, up on slopers to belay on ledge. Either finish up headwall a vari-ety of lines (all desperate and dirty) or rappel from ledge (rap station to be installed on good rock horns) Steve Holloway, Mark Rewi, Nic Kiraly 10-12-05

21 = Downtime 30m 18Scramble up to blocky terrace at R end of Cold War wall. Takes line around 15-20m right of Synthetic Venetian through series of overlaps at far R end of terrace. Up and over flake to first roof/overlap. Over this on good holds to stance, up wall and through R-hand weakness in second roof/overlap, up to belay on terrace or continue up short but tricky headwall with lots of slopers. Steve Holloway, Geoff Gledhill, Nic Kiraly 12-11-05

The next routes are on the Right Side of the Far Pavilion, around 2-300m right of Downtime…

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Project: Absorbing grit style climbing up the large wall L of Going Down in Flames. Take plenty of med cams. 1) 30m (18) Climb the line just L of Going Down etc until it peters out in downward sloping nonsense. Continue to horizon-tal grooves. Traverse L (#3 cam) to DBB (semi-hanging). 2) 20m Climb straight up weakness and continue to terrace. 3)

22 = Going Down in Flames 50m 15The first line R of the R descent gully angles slightly to the R.1) 30m Go up the wall to the crack, and curves up L to the main line. Follow this to a ledge on the L before a flaky section. 2) 20m Con-tinue up line on suspect rock and then more easily. Mike Stone, Chris Baxter (alt) 13-10-84

23 = The Stench of Christmas 13 A minor addition. Quaint climbing up the arête R of (Baxter’s route and other crack). Just enough gear down low. Mark Rewi, Steve Holloway, Nic Kiraly 11/05

The Lost Pavilion is approximately 3-400m North-West from the main wall of the Far Pavilion. It can also be reached by cutting left early on the way up to the Far Pavilion (the point at which to break left is as yet un-marked). Good luck not getting lost finding it!

A smallish cliff with some potential for more new routes of varying grades. There is a great looking steep orange face/corner up near Nomad and Tuareg that would be worth some hard man taking a drill to and spending some time falling off! Some of the rock is of very poor quality (around Beginners Bad Luck), and some is very good. Take care!

1 = *Nomad 25m, 22Located on a lovely looking triangular shaped wall facing south, with a bunch of great looking (much steeper) lines on it’s right on the orange steep wall. On the left side of the wall is a lightning bolt shaped crack, with a dyke on it’s right running up on a steep right-wards diagonal. Great gear and great moves but much steeper than it looks from the gully below!

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Up crack to arête on L (great hold but not feet!) then right to easy looking corner that still keeps you thinking. Up and right past weakness to top of pinnacle. Great gear at top. Scramble carefully down East side. FA Josef Goding (M0). FFA Kevin Lindorff, Cam-eron McKenzie. 16.04.2006

2 = * Tuareg 25m, 23Starts 4m right of Nomad just left of blunt arête. Up steep wall for 3m, step R past blunt arête to wall & good rest. Up scoopy tricky moves to ledge, easily to top. Natural belay, walk off as for Nomad. FA Kevin Lindorff, Anita Gowers, Cameron McKenzie. 16.04.2006

3 = * Trapped in a corner 45m 19Start 10m left of the reeds, about 50m short of Nomad, in a steep scoop, the most obvious weakness through the overhanging wall. As this route was established ground up, there is still some loose rock on the first pitch. Will clean up with traffic. Helmets recom-mended. A direct finish (removing the third pitch, and lengthen-ing the second pitch) is possible, but was skipped due to immi-nent darkness. It will probably be around grade 17, and protec-tion looks average. 1.) 15m 19 Boulder up steep wall on jugs for 4m (no gear, flat landing, get a spotter), until possible to traverse left onto a large ledge. Walk along the ledge for 3m to the base of a short corner. Desperately fingerlock and layback up the corner with very few foot holds (crux). Semi hanging belay at the top of the corner, big cams useful. 2.) 20m 16 Move right through the overhang and rock over to establish yourself in the beautiful orange corner. Up the corner (average protection at first, improv-ing as you get higher) until it fizzles out, then moving right onto the face and up to a ledge. 3.) 10m 9 Traverse right along ledge, step across the void, and then through small overhang to the top. Cameron McKenzie (1, 2), Anita Gowers (3) 15/04/2006

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4 = Beginner’s bad luck 20m, 17Not a beginner classic as it was supposed to be. Located about 150m south of Nomad and 10m left of The Trevor Hendy memorial weet-bix route. Start at right end of steep juggy wall at a short overhang-ing left leaning corner. Left up this until it runs out (about 4m) then up the left side of the wall through two steep sections. Consistent climbing, good gear. Poor rock, but may clean up to be solid after some more traffic. Take care on this one, make sure the belayer has a helmet. FA Josef Goding, Erik Israelsson 15.04.2006

5 = Trevor Hendy memorial weetbix route 20m 13 Starts in flared groove somewhere near the start of the cliff, about 10m right of Beginners bad luck. Attempted ground up by Anita, who wisely decided it was poxy and not worth dying for. Com-pleted by Cam, who obviously wasn't as wise. Not recommended. Climb up the flared groove thing with exploding handholds, sandy rock and average protection. Try not to fall off. Cameron McKenzie, Anita Gowers 15/04/2006

6 = I Know Nothing 15m, 12Access this route by scrambling up boulder choked gully 20 odd meters right of The Trevor Hendy memorial weetbix route. Belay at base of wet looking gully/chimney. Wander up easy angled ramp to the right of this gully for 4-5 meters (no pro), then up face on good holds and rock. Name refers to the first ascentionists experience with new-routin', AWB and a quality Faulty Towers quote to boot. FA Peter Hyslop, Guy Sawrey-Cookson, Megan Holbeck 15.04.2006

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Many thanks to the following who contributed to this guide:

Michael HamptonNic KiralyNeil MonteithKevin LindorffMark RewiPeter MillsSteve HollowayDamien HeathLawrie CowleyPaul Taulien

And a special mention to Geoff Gledhill for his fab driving skills and his wonderful new Ford Territory which made transport for the researching of this guide possible and enjoyable (if not a little scary at times!!!)

All work in this guide is copyright 2006 Josef Goding

Apart from fair dealings for the purpose of private study, research, criticism, or review as permitted under the Copyright Act, no part may be reproduced by any process without the writtern permission of the author.

All type is Palatino Linotype (size 10 or 12)All photo-topos by Josef GodingDesign, layout & production: Josef GodingThank you to the Victorian Climbing Club for letting this guide live on their website, and allow me to update it.

Any updates or corrections - please contact the author: Josef Godinge-mail: jgoding@aanet.com.au0425 883 719

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25m Rap from2 Rings above Bliss

The Far Pavilion Routes: Left Side01 = Beer, Brie and Waku Sausages Maketh the man (20*)02 = Absorbed in Stone (18)Absorbed In Stone Direct (23) - Josef Goding Project03 = For Old Times Sake (12*)04 = Bliss Left Wall Varient (20*)05 = Bliss (17**)06 = Happy Wanderer (15*)

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Photo: Josef Goding(From the Rock pools)Drawn: Josef Goding06.05.2006

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Bliss (17**)Climber: Anita GowersBelayer: Cameron McKenzieonlooker: Kevin LindorffPhoto: Josef Goding

For Old Times Sake (12*)Climber: Geoff Gledhill (on the first ascent)Photo: Josef Goding

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07 = Let the Fun Begin (18*)08 = Kava Boy (19**)09 = Karenina (22**)10 = Propoganda (19*)11 = Seiging Babaylon (23*)12 = Little Jhony Warpig (18*)

18 = The Battle of Evermore (24**)19 = The Iron Curtain (24***)Mark Rewi Project20 = Synthetic Venetian (22*)21 = Downtime (18)

13 = Hairy Legs (15)14 = Far Horizons (15)15 = 500 Days (21*, 19, 17**)16 = Glasnost (24**)17 = The Cold War (23***)

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The Far Pavilion: Glasnost AreaThe Victoria Range - The GrampiansDrawn: Josef GodingPhoto: Josef GodingVersion 4, 13.04.2006Climber: Mark Rewi on his projectThe Far Pavilion_3_V8

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Cu

rta

in (

24**

*)M

ar

k R

ewi

Pr

oje

ct

20 =

Syn

th

etic

Ven

etia

n (

22*)

21 =

Do

wn

tim

e (1

8)22

= G

oin

g D

ow

n i

n F

lam

es (

15)

13 =

Hair

y Le

gs

(15)

14 =

Far

Ho

riz

on

s (1

5)15

= 5

00 D

ays

(21,

19,

17)

16 =

Gla

sno

st (

24**

)17

= T

he

Co

ld W

ar

(23

***)

18 =

Th

e B

attle

of

Ev

erm

or

e (2

4)

The F

ar Pav

ilion_4

_V5

= Pr

ojec

t

17=

Rou

te N

umbe

r

= A

cces

s

= R

oute

LEG

END

:

= Be

lay

B

11

12

13

14

11

12 13 14

15 16

16

15

16

1615

14

13

9

11

B

B

= Pr

ojec

t

17=

Rou

te N

umbe

r

= A

cces

s

= R

oute

LEG

END

:

= Be

lay

B8

7

7

8

The F

ar Pav

ilion_5

_V4

Very poorly marked track

Well cairned but wanderingtrack

The Lost Pavilion

The Far Pavilion

The Lost Pavilion map01 = Nomad 25m, 22*02 = Tuareg 25m, 23*03 = Trapped in a corner 45m 19*04 = Beginner’s bad luck 20m, 1705 = Trevor Hendy memorial weetbix route 20m 1306 = I Know Nothing 15m, 12

0102

0304

0506

The Far Pavilion_ 6_V5

The Far Pavilion_2&3: Main Wall07 = Let the Fun Begin (18*)08 = Kava Boy (19*)09 = Karenina (22**)10 = Propoganda (19*)11 = Seiging Babaylon (23*)12 = Little Jhony Warpig (18*)13 = Hairy Legs (15)14 = Far Horizons (15)15 = 500 Days (21*, 19, 17**)16 = Glasnost (24**)17 = The Cold War (23***)18 = The Battle of Evermore (24**)19 = The Iron Curtain (24***)Project20 = Synthetic Venetian (22*)21 = Downtime (18)

Right Side: Project 22 = Going Down in Flames (15)23 = Little Johnny Warpig (18)24 = The Stench of Christmas (15)

The Far Pavilion_1: Left Side01 = Beer, Brie and Waku Beef Sausages Maketh the man (20*)02 = Absorbed in Stone (18)Project03 = For Old Times Sake (12*)04 = Bliss Left Wall Varient (20*)05 = Bliss (17**)06 = Happy Wanderer (15*)

22 23 24

The Far Pavilion_7_V3

19

20

19

18171615

1413

12

9

11

20

B

B

BB

B

B

21

21

The L

ost Pa

vilion

The

Vict

oria

Ran

ge. T

he G

ram

pian

s, V

icto

ria.

Vers

ion

4,

23

.04

.20

06

. B

y Jo

sef

God

ing

Large

red rig

ht fac

ing co

rner

To: Th

e Far

Pavilio

n(30

0m sc

rub ba

sh)

Steep

juggy

wall

Shallow

Crack

Big hig

h narr

ow gu

lly

To: The p

ools (700

m scrub

bash)

To: The B

and of Gy

psies (30

min)To: R

ed Rocks

(40min)

Scram

ble off

back

of lar

ge bou

lder

1 =

Nom

ad 2

5m, 2

2*

Loca

ted

on

a lo

vely

loo

kin

g t

rian

gu

lar s

hap

ed w

all f

acin

g s

ou

th, w

ith

a b

un

ch

of g

reat

loo

kin

g (m

uch

ste

eper

) lin

es o

n it

’s ri

gh

t o

n t

he

ora

ng

e st

eep

wal

l. O

n

the

left

sid

e o

f th

e w

all i

s an

ob

vio

us

ligh

tnin

g b

olt

sh

aped

cra

ck, w

ith

a d

yke

on

it’s

rig

ht

run

nin

g u

p o

n a

ste

ep r

igh

twar

ds

dia

go

nal

. Gre

at g

ear a

nd

gre

at

mov

es b

ut

mu

ch s

teep

er t

han

it lo

oks

fro

m t

he

gu

lly b

elo

w! U

p c

rack

to a

rête

o

n L

(gre

at h

old

bu

t n

ot

feet

!) th

en r

igh

t to

eas

y lo

oki

ng

co

rner

th

at s

till

keep

s yo

u t

hin

kin

g. U

p a

nd

rig

ht

pas

t w

eakn

ess

to to

p o

f pin

nac

le. G

reat

gea

r at

top

. Sc

ram

ble

car

efu

lly d

ow

n E

ast

sid

e. F

A J

ose

f Go

din

g (M

0). F

FA K

evin

Lin

do

rff,

Cam

ero

n M

cKen

zie.

16.

04.2

006

2 =

Tau

reg

25m

, 23*

Star

ts 4

m r

igh

t o

f No

mad

just

left

of b

lun

t ar

ête.

Up

ste

ep w

all f

or 3

m, s

tep

R

pas

t b

lun

t ar

ête

to w

all &

go

od

rest

. Up

sco

op

y tr

icky

mov

es to

led

ge,

eas

ily to

to

p. N

atu

ral b

elay

, wal

k o

ff a

s fo

r No

mad

. FA

Kev

in L

ind

orf

f, A

nit

a G

ow

ers,

Cam

ero

n M

cKen

zie.

16.

04.2

006

3 =

Tra

pped

in a

cor

ner 4

5m 1

9*

Star

ts 1

0m le

ft o

f th

e re

eds,

abo

ut

50m

sh

ort

of N

om

ad, i

n a

ste

ep s

coo

p, t

he

mo

st o

bvi

ou

s w

eakn

ess

thro

ug

h t

he

over

han

gin

g w

all.

As

this

rou

te w

as

esta

blis

hed

gro

un

d u

p, t

her

e is

sti

ll so

me

loo

se ro

ck o

n t

he

first

pit

ch. W

ill

clea

n u

p w

ith

tra

ffic

. H

elm

ets

reco

mm

end

ed.

A d

irec

t fin

ish

(rem

ovin

g t

he

thir

d p

itch

, an

d le

ng

then

ing

th

e se

con

d p

itch

) is

po

ssib

le, b

ut

was

ski

pp

ed d

ue

to im

min

ent

dar

knes

s. It

will

pro

bab

ly b

e ar

ou

nd

gra

de

17, a

nd

pro

tect

ion

lo

oks

ave

rag

e.1.

) 15

m 1

9 B

ou

lder

up

ste

ep w

all o

n ju

gs

for 4

m (n

o g

ear,

flat

lan

din

g, g

et a

sp

ott

er),

un

til p

oss

ible

to t

rave

rse

left

on

to a

larg

e le

dg

e. W

alk

alo

ng

th

e le

dg

e fo

r 3m

to t

he

bas

e o

f a s

ho

rt c

orn

er.

Des

per

atel

y fin

ger

lock

an

d la

ybac

k u

p t

he

corn

er w

ith

ver

y fe

w fo

ot

ho

lds

(cru

x).

Sem

i han

gin

g b

elay

at

the

top

of t

he

corn

er, b

ig c

ams

use

ful.

2.)

20m

16

Mov

e ri

gh

t th

rou

gh

th

e ov

erh

ang

an

d ro

ck o

ver t

o e

stab

lish

yo

urs

elf i

n t

he

bea

uti

ful o

ran

ge

corn

er.

Up

th

e co

rner

(ave

rag

e p

rote

ctio

n a

t fir

st, i

mp

rovi

ng

as

you

get

hig

her

) un

til i

t fiz

zles

ou

t, th

en m

ovin

g r

igh

t o

nto

th

e fa

ce a

nd

up

to a

led

ge.

3.)

10m

9 T

rave

rse

rig

ht

alo

ng

led

ge,

ste

p a

cro

ss t

he

void

, an

d t

hen

th

rou

gh

sm

all o

verh

ang

to t

he

top

.C

amer

on

McK

enzi

e (1

, 2),

An

ita

Go

wer

s (3

) 15/

04/2

006

4 =

Beg

inne

r’s b

ad lu

ck 2

0m, 1

7

No

t a

beg

inn

er c

lass

ic a

s it

was

su

pp

ose

d to

be.

Lo

cate

d a

bo

ut

150m

so

uth

of

No

mad

an

d 1

0m le

ft o

f Th

e Tr

evo

r Hen

dy

mem

ori

al w

eetb

ix ro

ute

. Sta

rt a

t ri

gh

t en

d o

f ste

ep ju

gg

y w

all a

t a

sho

rt o

verh

ang

ing

left

lean

ing

co

rner

. Lef

t u

p

this

un

til i

t ru

ns

ou

t (a

bo

ut

4m) t

hen

up

th

e le

ft s

ide

of t

he

wal

l th

rou

gh

tw

o

stee

p s

ecti

on

s. C

on

sist

ent

clim

bin

g, g

oo

d g

ear.

Poo

r ro

ck, b

ut

may

cle

an u

p to

b

e so

lid a

fter

so

me

mo

re t

raff

ic. T

ake

care

on

th

is o

ne,

mak

e su

re t

he

bel

ayer

h

as a

hel

met

. FA

Jo

sef G

od

ing,

Eri

k Is

rael

sso

n 1

5.04

.200

6 5

=

20m

13

-***

Star

ts in

flar

ed g

roov

e so

mew

her

e n

ear t

he

star

t o

f th

e cl

iff, a

bo

ut

10m

rig

ht

of

Beg

inn

ers

bad

luck

. A

ttem

pte

d g

rou

nd

up

by

An

ita,

wh

o w

isel

y d

ecid

ed it

was

p

oxy

and

no

t w

ort

h d

yin

g fo

r. C

om

ple

ted

by

Cam

, wh

o o

bvi

ou

sly

was

n't

as

wis

e.

Clim

b u

p t

he

flare

d g

roov

e th

ing

wit

h e

xplo

din

g h

and

ho

lds,

san

dy

rock

an

d

aver

age

pro

tect

ion

. Try

no

t to

fall

off

.C

amer

on

McK

enzi

e, A

nit

a G

ow

ers

15/0

4/20

06

6 =

I Kn

ow N

othi

ng 1

5m, 1

2

Acc

ess

this

rou

te b

y sc

ram

blin

g u

p b

ou

lder

ch

oke

d g

ully

20

od

d m

eter

s ri

gh

t o

f Th

e Tr

evo

r Hen

dy

mem

ori

al w

eetb

ix ro

ute

. Bel

ay a

t b

ase

of w

et lo

oki

ng

g

ully

/ch

imn

ey. W

and

er u

p e

asy

ang

led

ram

p to

th

e ri

gh

t o

f th

is g

ully

for 4

-5

met

ers

(no

pro

), th

en u

p fa

ce o

n g

oo

d h

old

s an

d ro

ck. N

ame

refe

rs to

th

e fir

st

asce

nti

on

ists

exp

erie

nce

wit

h n

ew-r

ou

tin

', AW

B a

nd

a q

ual

ity

Fau

lty

Tow

ers

qu

ote

to b

oo

t. FA

Pet

er H

yslo

p, G

uy

Saw

rey-

Co

oks

on

, Meg

an H

olb

eck

15.0

4.20

06

12

3

4

5

6

nice lo

oking

steep

grey w

allnice lo

oking

steep

orang

e wall

Kevi

n Li

ndor

ff o

n th

e FA

of T

aure

g (2

3*)

Bela

yed

by C

amer

on M

cKen

zie

Jose

f God

ing

on th

e FA

of N

omad

(22*

)

Cam

eron

McK

enzi

e an

d A

nita

Gow

ers

on th

e FA

of “

Trap

ped

in a

C

orne

r” (1

9*)

Cam

eron

McK

enzi

e an

d A

nita

Gow

ers

on th

e FA

of “

The

Trev

or H

endy

mem

oria

l w

eetb

ix ro

ute

The Far Pavilion_The Rock Pools

Nic Kiraly enjoyingthe rock pools after abig day at the Far Pavilion