the jolly good grub guide 2015

IN ASSOCIATION WITH

SO_FoodieGuide15_Cover.indd 1 01/12/2014 14:37

Model shown Kl38 — £27,971* Krieder showrooM — 3 Chapel Place, Tunbridge wells, Kent Tn1 1YQ — 01892 619721 — [email protected] — www.krieder.com

*Price shown includes delivery, cabinet furniture, appliances, worktops and VAT

krieder_May_2014_SO FINAL.indd 2 10/06/2014 09:18Krieder FoodieGuide_SOTW _DPS_Dec14.indd 2 01/12/2014 13:55

Model shown Kl38 — £27,971* Krieder showrooM — 3 Chapel Place, Tunbridge wells, Kent Tn1 1YQ — 01892 619721 — [email protected] — www.krieder.com

*Price shown includes delivery, cabinet furniture, appliances, worktops and VAT

krieder_May_2014_SO FINAL.indd 2 10/06/2014 09:18Krieder FoodieGuide_SOTW _DPS_Dec14.indd 3 01/12/2014 13:55

KRIEDER

RShrager_SOTW _FP_Jan15.indd 1 01/12/2014 13:51

ROSEMARY SHRAGER'.__S c 0 0 K

We offer a wide range of hands-on full

and half day cookery courses where you

will learn prac tical skills that you will

use every day.

Enjoy our Chef's Table Dining

Experience on Friday and Saturday

evenings with a different 5 course

tasting menu each week.

We also provide bespoke,

tailor-made packages for:

Corporate events

Teambuilding

Priva te celebrations

Evening events

Our courses offer the perfect balance

of demonstrations, carried out by our

talented chefs, and hands-on cooking.

Day courses finish with a leisurely

three course lunch accompanied by a

glass of wine.

Chefs Rosemary Shrager and John

R ogers fi rmly believe in supporting

local suppliers and producers, sourcing

the best of the season's produce.

ROSEMARY SHR_AGER'._S COOKERY SCHOOL

The Corn Exchange, The Pantiles,

Royal Tunbridge Wells ,

KentTN2 STE

www.rosemaryshrager.com

Cl @RSCookerySchool

() RSCookerySchool

Telephone: 01892 528700 Enquiries:

school@ rosemaryshrager.com

E R y s c

ARE YOU:

• Aged between 16 and 24?

• Currently out of education,

employment or training?

H 0

• Interested in becoming a qualified chef

in as little as 12 months?

"YES!"

WHY? Because we are looking for enthusiastic,

ambitious, young people who have a passion for food and would like to be trained by

Rosemary Shrager and her team of talented chefs, in our new, state-of-the-art, professional

kitchen in Tunbridge Wells.

We are offering both NVQs and VRQs, Level 2 (& 3), all endorsed by East Kent College.

0 L

~ Apprenticeships

~))) Kent County Council kent .gov.uk

.t'.,.( East Kent ~ College

WE STILL HAVE SPACES, SO APPLY TODAY

Contact us to request an application form:

Email apprentices@rosemaryshrager. corn

or call Nisus on 01892 528700 for more information.

O Shragersapprenticeships O RSApprentices

'"n,;"n,;" .rosemaryshrager.com

G O O D G R U B G U I D E SO

SANKEY’S PUB, OLD FISHMARKET& FISHMONGERS, TUNBRIDGE WELLSDiscover a surprising menu addition at these

seafood havens

ALEXANDER HOUSE, TURNERS HILLImagination is everything at this acclaimed

restaurant

THE DORSET ARMS, HARTFIELDAward winning cattle and seasonal game add

flavour to the menu

CHAPTER ONE, LOCKBOTTOMEnjoy Michelin-starred dining at affordable prices

THE NEVILL CREST & GUN, ERIDGE GREENMonthly menu changes keep the taste sensations fresh

SALOMONS BISTRO, SOUTHBOROUGHExquisite cuisine in an elegant country house setting

THE GOUDHURST INN, GOUDHURSTWinery collaboration leads to exciting new developments

THE CURLEW, BODIAMFind out why this place is full of star quality

THE LITTLE BROWN JUG,CHIDDINGSTONE CAUSEWAYBe tempted by the chef’s signature dish

of braised lamb

THE CAMDEN ARMS, PEMBURYNew innovations mean the food is really

smoking at this pub

THE KINGS HEAD, SEVENOAKSTry your hand at a delicious dish fit for

royalty

THE MARK CROSS INN,MARK CROSSTravel and great ingredients are the

Head Chef’s inspirations

THE CHASER INN, SHIPBOURNEFresh, local and seasonal – the three

keys to success

SPONSORED BY

contents

SO_FoodieGuide15_Contents.indd 183 01/12/2014 15:40

SO SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E

Award-winningWhen Head Chef Neil Wiggins fi rst arrived at

The Spa, he vowed to raise the standards and

has done just that, as The Spa has recently

received a two-Rosette accolade from the AA.

Two RestaurantsFollowing the expansion of the hotel bar

Zagatos to create a new Brasserie, The Spa

now offers locals a choice of two restaurants.

The Chandelier Restaurant offers guests fi ne

dining in elegant surroundings, while Zagatos

Brasserie offers a more relaxed experience.

The décor has a fun ‘mix ‘n’ match’ feel with

relaxing greens and creams, and while the

service is still fi rst-class, the vibe is very much

home from home.

The MenusGuests in the Chandelier Restaurant can

choose from the à la carte menu, or the

seasonal menu du jour, with classic dishes

such as ‘poached lemon sole with cider

mussels, spring onions and crème fraiche’ and

‘roast cannon of lamb, lamb’s kidney,

dauphinoise potatoes and roasted baby

vegetables.’ Zagatos Brasserie offers all the

posh pub favourites, plus sharing platters and

quality steaks straight from the chargrill.

New for 2015With the success of the new-look Brasserie,

the refurbishments are set to continue into

the New Year and January will see the hotel’s

main lounge completely transformed with

more stylish, contemporary décor, yet

retaining that comfortable homely lounge feel.

Afternoon teas continue to be as popular as

ever and we are really excited about the new

lounge scheme.

Spa by NameOK, it’s not exactly food related, but the most

exciting plan of all is the proposed expansion

and refurbishment of Spa Spa. The top secret

plans are being fi nalised at the moment,

however the idea is to create a spa befi tting

the hotel’s name. Keep an eye on the website

for more info!

the spa hotel - tunbridge wellsThe Spa Hotel in Tunbridge Wells is celebrating the win of a prestigious food award and getting ready for

the New Year with a fabulous makeover and planned expansion. We hear about some of their latest develops

from Ant Scragg (pictured) and how there will be even more for customers to look forward to in 2015

CUISINE: Classically based modern British

ADDRESS: Mount Ephraim,

Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN4 8XJ

TEL: 01892 520 331

WEB: www.spahotel.co.uk

NAME: Proprietor Ant Scragg

AA Rosette Award for Culinary Excellence

SO_FoodieGuide15_Spa Hotel_v3.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:32


Hello...

Within these pages

you’ll discover a

mouth-watering array

of gastronomic gems

across West Kent and East Sussex.

Being based in our beautiful part of

the world, chefs have access to some

of the best local produce in the

country, a resource that is put to very

good use at these high quality eateries.

When you add our breathtaking

Wealden scenery to the equation, it all

adds up to a spectacular foodie scene.

So, where will your gourmet

adventures take you this year?

Will you pull up a chair in a

picturesque country pub, ready to

tuck into their local, seasonal game

and traditional British dishes? Or are

you in the mood for elegant European

cuisine in a stunning country house

style setting?

A selection of the country’s most

divine seafood is also on the menu,

while at another village hostelry you’ll

find that great food and great wine go

hand in hand. But why choose? When

there’s such an exquisite food and

drink offering right here on our doorstep,

surely we have a duty to try it all...

Welcome to the latest edition of the Jolly Good Grub Guide – we hope you’re hungry!

SPONSORED BY

SO_FoodieGuide15_Welcome Intro.indd 183 01/12/2014 15:38

SO

What happened in 2014?2014 was a big year for us – we traded

in The Pantiles during a summer for the

first time. The weather was great, we put

on some great jazz, the markets have been

rejuvenated and the food festivals were the

best ever. At Mount Ephraim

we worked hard improving the business

with things we had learned from

our project in The Pantiles. The Seafood

Brassiere underwent a total refurbishment,

with a brief of increasing the quality of the

SO G O O D G R U B G U I D E

THE PUB & SEAFOOD BRASSERIE

39 Mount Ephraim, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN4 8AA

[email protected]

facebook.com/sankeys

@sankeysRTW

Tel: 01892 511 422

THE OLD FISHMARKET

19 The Upper Pantiles, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 5TN

[email protected]

facebook.com/TheOldFishmarketPantiles

@sankeysRTW

Tel: 01892 511 422

THE FISHMONGERS

9 Vale Road, Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN1 1BS

[email protected]

facebook.com/SankeysFishmongers

@sankeyfish

Tel: 01892 511 422

WEBSITE: www.sankeys.co.uk

NAME: Matthew Sankey

SANKEY’S - TUNBRIDGE WELLS

SO_FoodieGuide15_Sankeys.indd 182 01/12/2014 15:37


How long have you worked here?

I started with Sankey’s in 2004 with a small

sabbatical in 2008.

Describe your culinary background.

I started off as a Kitchen Porter when I was

17 in a 14th century pub, The Blackboys

Inn, where I worked my way up in the

kitchen. I was there for almost 10 years

and was Head Chef by the time I left. I

worked for a few years in Australia and

when I returned Sankey’s were looking for

chefs, so I applied and here I am.

Tell us about your approach to food.

I love using the best ingredients and then

creating something fantastic.

Who’s your food hero?

Keith Floyd – I love him. He was the

original TV chef. Although I suppose he is

to blame for it being fashionable to be a TV

chef these days.

What is your signature dish?

I make a mean Kedgeree, but I like to

consider myself as a very strong all-

rounder. I prefer savoury dishes personally.

What’s the one dish or delicacy people

should try next year?

My burgers! Joking aside, my favourite

thing on our menu is the lobster and crab

platter. Cooked fresh to order, it really is

mouth-watering.

MEET THE CHEFSimon Wilson, Head Chef at Sankey’s The Seafood Brasserie & The Pub Mount Ephraim

dining experience via better service and

environment. It really looks fabulous now.

In the pub we have been at the forefront of

the craft beer revolution in the town, some

of the beers that we have drunk in the last

year have been some of the best I have

ever known!

Did your menu evolve last year and if so, how?Our menus are constantly evolving.

I put this down to three factors: firstly, the

produce we purchase is seasonal and the

fish is wild so we are always at the mercy

of the weather gods and ensuring we are

sustainable. Secondly, our customers’

demands are always changing and we try

to both react to and pro-actively match

this; it’s all about listening to what the

customer wants. Finally, our staff are

constantly developing personally and that

comes across in the food that we produce

for sure.

Tell us about your favourite food discovery of the last twelve months.This might sound strange but I was very

lucky to visit Argentina this year to watch

some rugby and taste some wine.

I stumbled upon the most incredible

burger shop! The place was buzzing and

the burgers were fantastic, they did great

beer too. From a fish side I’ve got to say

that Chefs Harvey and Jack at The Old

Fishmarket have blown me away. I knew

they were good but they have exceeded all

expectations for year one with the quality,

originality and consistency

of their produce.

Have you seen any trends or changes in customer expectations this year?We are ever so lucky here in

Tunbridge Wells, it’s a vibrant place with

an abundance of food and drinking

establishments to choose from. This

means that we all have to keep on our feet

and make sure the products and service

we are supplying is the very best we can

do and then keep on improving it. There

is no opportunity to lie down here, you

will be eaten alive.

SPONSORED BY




I joined Sankey’s in November 2013 for the

opening of The Old Fishmarket.

Describe your culinary background.

I trained at Westminster Kingsway, then I

worked in a few restaurants and golf clubs in

the south east honing my skills, before finally

finding my calling here at The Old Fishmarket.

Tell us about your approach to food.

I like to keep it simple. The south east is the

best area for produce so I like it to speak for

itself. However, a little presentation helps it

to get its message across nicely.


I do love Gordon Ramsey if you’re looking for

a TV chef. But I really admire Georgio

Locatelli as he produces some incredible food.

What is your signature dish?

One of the most popular dishes we have done

at The Old Fishmarket was a steamed Dover

Sole with panko Colchester Rock Oysters

served with a tarragon veloute. It’s all about

balancing the flavours and textures.


should try in 2015?

Oysters –100%! I am so lucky to have such a

variety of these amazing pockets of taste

here in my kitchen. It’s not just about the

raw natural oysters, either; they are

incredible when cooked or even smoked.

MEET THE CHEFJack Hone, Sous Chef at The Old Fishmarket by Sankey’s

DIRECTIONS

1) Gently poach the haddock in the milk for about five minutes.

2) Make a roux by melting the butter in a pan, add the flour bit by bit to make a paste and

cook on for about one minute on a low heat.

3) Strain the milk and slowly add it to the roux to make a white sauce. Stir for around 15

minutes or until you get a nice even thick sauce.

4) Then add two handfuls of the grated cheese, stir in and remove from the heat.

5) In a separate pan poach the tiger prawns until cooked – about two mins or until they go orange.

6) In a baking dish (or you can do this individually) layer the spinach on the bottom of the dish, then

7) Add the haddock & prawns before evenly pouring in the sauce. Coat with the remaining

cheese and brown under a hot grill.

8) If you wish you can serve with a poached egg on top.

INGREDIENTS

500g skinless, pin boned

natural smoked haddock

(your fishmongers can

prepare this for you)

200g raw peeled &

deveined tiger prawns

100g unsalted butter

100g plain flour

1pt full fat milk

Palm full of shopped

parsley (flat or curly)

3 handfuls of grated cheddar

4 small handfuls of spinach

Sankey’s Smokie

NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF SANKEY’S RECIPES

What’s new for your diners this year?We have a few plans for expansion, but

I’m unable to speak about those right

now. Our pub menu has been developed;

we are known for our fish obviously but

our chefs are very talented and our pub

menu is fabulous. I’ve brought my burger

ideas to the table and Simon and his

team have run with it! I’d strongly

recommend popping in and sampling

our pub menu sometime.

Can you give a food trend prediction for 2015?Whilst earlier I mentioned that we are

so very lucky in Tunbridge Wells, I feel

that there is a trend forming with large

chain restaurants opening up around us.

Whilst this is fantastic for consumer

choice it’s terrible for the local

economy. Local traders buy from local

people, who employ local people who

spend their wages in the local area.

Chains buy from large multinational

suppliers whose profit is not spent

locally at all, and most appear to have

interesting tax schemes too. My concern

is that they can afford to enter a price

war against each other too. Small local

traders cannot. There must be a

balance; whilst there is no law against

competition we must ensure that our

local small traders are looked after by

the local community and authorities.



ALEXANDER HOUSE HOTEL - EAST GRINSTEAD

How long have you worked at Alexander House?I’ve been here for three and a half years.

Describe your culinary backgroundHaving spent over 20 years working in some

of London’s most prominent establishments,

such as The Stafford, I have a deep

appreciation for all elements of food; from

the education in flavours and styles of

cuisine, to the way in which cooking has

evolved over the years and the execution

and delivery of the perfect dish.

Tell us about your approach to foodMy ethos is to champion classic cooking,

which remains at the heart of my food.

I then evolve my dishes with inspiration

that comes not only from the season

but from my present environment.

Imagination is everything and there is

nothing more inspiring than the beautiful

Sussex countryside at my backdoor.

Who is your food hero? My grandmother. She was a pastry chef

who used to visit every Sunday and bake

everything from éclairs to traditional sponge

puddings in winter. She was one of the most

influential people in my life and taught me

to believe in my own standard of cooking

and never be afraid to be playful with

my food.

What is your signature dish?I don’t really have one as it changes all the

time! I like to keep my dishes evolving so

although I have a few favourites, I can’t say I

have one particular signature dish.

What’s the one dish or delicacy people should try this year? Pork can often be underestimated so

I would definitely recommend our braised

Gloucester old spot pork and crackling,

served in AG’s Restaurant. The meat is slow

cooked in our “big green egg” with bold

ingredients that give this simple dish

a remarkable flavour.

CUISINE: European

ADDRESS: AG’s Restaurant at

Alexander House Hotel, East Street,

Turners Hill, East Grinstead RH10 4QD

TEL: 01342 714 914

WEB: www.alexanderhouse.co.uk

NAME: Mark Budd, Executive Chef

SPONSORED BY

SO_FoodieGuide15_Alexander House.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:27

SO

Tell us about the restaurant’s food ethosOur Head Chef, Simon Brazier, creates

simple yet delicious dishes using as

much local produce as possible. We

source most of our meat from The

Buckhurst Estate. Our fish comes from

Veasey and Sons in Forest Row and is

caught fresh daily from the South Coast.

Describe the type of cuisine on your menuCurrently we have a lot of game, as it’s

in season. We also use award winning

Sussex Cattle and Buckhurst Blue –

Lord De La Warr’s pigs.

What are your ‘must try’ dishes?The Scotch egg with mustard

mayonnaise. It’s made with eggs from

the estate and Buckhurst sausage meat,

then cooked to perfection and still gooey

in the middle. Other favourites include

crab on toast and venison steak served

with stilton mashed potato, glazed

parsnips and a redcurrant jus. Plus,

there’s the venison burger with blue

cheese and pommes frites or grilled

flat iron chicken with rocket salad and

frites, in addition to whole lemon sole

with samphire, brown shrimps and

pommes frites.


CUISINE: Traditional English

ADDRESS: Buckhurst Park, Withyham,

Hartfield, East Sussex TN7 4BD

TEL: 01892 770 278

WEB: www.dorset-arms.co.uk

NAME: Bar Manager Alex Bishop

and Restaurant Manager Charlie Blundell

“Our Head Chef, Simon Brazier,

creates simple yet delicious

dishes using as much local

produce as possible”

THE DORSET ARMS - WITHYHAM

SO_FoodieGuide15_Dorset Arms.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:30


DIRECTIONS

1) Bring a pan of water to the boil and boil the eggs for six minutes

2) Refresh the eggs by placing in cold water, then peel

3) Wrap with 100g of sausage meat each, making sure you have even

covering all the way around each egg

4) Flour, egg and breadcrumb the sausage-covered eggs

5) Deep fry for eight minutes (this will leave the middle of the egg a little runny)

6) To serve, cut in half and accompany with baby leaf salad and mustard mayonnaise

Scotch eggMakes 4 eggs

INGREDIENTS

4 eggs, plus 1 for egg wash

400g Buckhurst sausage meat,

rolled out to 1cm thick

200g breadcrumbs (chef

recommends Panko)

200g fl our

Splash of milk for egg wash

NOW HERE’S YOUR CHANCE TO TRY ONE OF HIS RECIPES

MEET THE CHEFSimon Brazier


I’ve been here since November 2013.

What was your fi rst experience of cooking?

I remember baking with my Nan when I was

a child.

What inspired you to become a chef?

I was motivated into this career by my love

of food.

Where did you train?

At the Royal Wells Hotel, Tunbridge Wells

and day release at Butler’s Wharf Chef

School in London.

What was your fi rst job in the industry?

I became a trainee chef at The Royal

Wells Hotel.

Has a particular chef infl uenced your

career?

I would say Robert Sloane, who is proprietor

and Head Chef at The Royal Wells Hotel.

Have you or your restaurants won

any awards?

The George and Dragon at Ightham

won Best Gastro Pub 2010 in the

South East.

Do you have any specialist skills?

Timing, consistency and prioritising are

among my strengths – I would say I’m a good

all-rounder.

What’s your signature dish?

Ballotine of partridge with celeriac and blue

cheese panna cotta – a special from the

beginning of this year. And the warm pigeon

salad on our current menu.

Is your cooking infl uenced by any

particular region or style?

Not really, I do quite a few classical dishes

but I usually just use whatever style

necessary for the dish I am creating.

What has been the highlight of your career

so far?

When one of my trainee chefs made it to the

fi nals of MasterChef: The Professionals.

What do you enjoy most about being a chef?

Producing good food and the feedback that

goes with it.

To be a great chef you need to be…

Dedicated and passionate! Food is a

science and you need to be interested

in it to succeed.

“Food is a science

and you need to be

interested in

it to succeed”

SPONSORED BY

SO_FoodieGuide15_Dorset Arms.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:30

Okay, let’s start with a little

quiz. Where can you get

lunch at a Michelin-starred

restaurant for less than you

might pay at your local gastro pub?

The answer is, not far away: at Chapter

One in Farnborough, Kent. The menu

du jour is just £19.95, but even a normal

three-course lunch can be ordered from

the à la carte menu for just £27; dinner is

£38.50 on Fridays or Saturdays and, on

Sunday evenings, £33.50.

It goes without saying that the food is

exemplary; in fact, I had my favourite

starter of the year there not long ago, but

more of that later.

What really interests me is the quality

of the service. It is, quite simply, better

than many lauded West End restaurants

and hotels, not because Chapter One is

less busy – it does 1,500 covers a week,

which is seriously hard work with a kitchen

brigade of 16 – but because the training is

rigorous and the staff are well chosen.

Our waitress, Karina, a Latvian, floats

through the restaurant and around the

tables, always alert, always relaxed like – to

quote award-winning restaurant manager,

Fred Sirieix – “a gazelle on Red Bull”. When

I ask her where she has worked before, she

names one of my favourite restaurants in

London: Galvin’s Bistrot de Luxe on Baker

Street. It figures.

And so to that starter – jugged hare (£5).

Yes, jugged hare, usually a heavyweight

main meal, gamey and strong, often

matched by a good claret (a Berry Brothers

& Rudd Good Ordinary will do nicely,

thank you). I last had jugged hare at Rules

in Covent Garden, so long ago that I smoked

If you long to dine in a Michelin-starred restaurant, you don’t need to travel to London – Chapter One in Farnborough Common, Kent, offers an award-winning culinary experience right here on our doorstep. And fine dining doesn’t have to cost a fortune, as Erik Brown discovers

Start a new chapter


SO_FoodieGuide15_Chapter One Review.indd 182 01/12/2014 15:27

a cigar afterwards – at the table, in the

restaurant. I haven’t smoked in more than

a decade.

At Chapter One, the jugged hare is

presented in a glass with an espume of

mashed potato on top and with three sticks

of hare satay alongside. It looks like an Irish

coffee and it tastes divine.

Jugged hare is a quintessentially British

dish. Its earthy flavour is up there with the

white truffle as a gastronomic experience.

I adored it as a starter and, at just a fiver, it

was cheaper than the first courses in most

of the pubs I use in Kent and Sussex.

The jugged hare is preceded by an

off-menu sweet and foamy parsnip soup

as an amuse bouche and followed by a thin

terrine of foie gras with duck, macadamia

nuts, fig purée, celeriac purée and tiny

shimeji mushrooms and toasted fruit bread

(£7.95). And that’s before the roast Yorkshire

grouse and pithivier of leg with creamed

curly kale, Jerusalem artichokes and sloe

gin and grouse jus (£17).

Now, it’s really hard to run a Michelin-

starred restaurant. The quality of the food

has to be consistent; the quality of the

napkins, cutlery and crockery has to be

top-end; the front of house staff have to be

exquisitely well trained, and there have to

be a lot of them; and the kitchen brigade has

to consist of trained chefs – not one trained

chef and some guys on an hourly rate – but

all trained chefs.

If you’re trying to do that in Central

London, with London rents, it’s actually

quite difficult to make money at all, which is

why so many chefs become celebrities. They

have to make money out of their brand with

books first, then with TV programmes and,

eventually, a few of them open restaurant

chains emblazoned with their names.

So, how does Chapter One’s Chef

Patron Andrew McLeish manage to run

a Michelin-starred restaurant inside the

M25 at pub prices?

Well, first of all, he and his team work like

crazy. If 16 chefs sounds like a lot, you have

to realise that Chapter One is a seven day

a week operation. And then Andrew goes

for the tastier, less expensive cuts – often

shooting game for the pot himself. The menu

is seasonal too, with damsons and cob nuts

accompanying a warm salad of local wood

pigeon (£5) on the day I was there. So, he

shops cleverly and he shops locally.

So many restaurants these days –

especially chain restaurants, or whatever

they are called – are production lines

in which pre-prepared ingredients are

assembled by a chef and some assistants.

Hold that thought and let’s just go back to

that pithivier of grouse leg and the sloe gin

and grouse jus. You’d have to be a pretty

serious chef to put that together. That’s

not an assembly job; it takes skill, care and

talent. And it’s wonderful, with the pastry

crust on the pithivier as thin as a credit card

and as crisp as a biscuit and the grouse leg

inside savoury and light.

The jugged hare is the standout course for

me, but it nearly loses out to a peanut butter

panna cotta with golden lime sorbet and

morello cherry foam (£5). At the beginning,

the panna cotta is very light and sweet

with just a hint of the salty peanut butter

that strolls slowly in like a bouncer, until

it hits the taste buds with surprising force.

He knows his desserts, Andrew McLeish –

there’s a touch of genius in every one.

Chapter One

Farnborough Common,

Locksbottom, Kent, BR6 8NF

01689 854 848

www.chapteronerestaurant.co.uk

G O O D G R U B G U I D E SOSPONSORED BY

The panna cotta is very light and sweet with just a hint of the

salty peanut butter that strolls slowly in like a bouncer,

until it hits the taste buds with surprising force

THE JUGGED HARE

ROAST GROUSE

PANNA COTTA

SO_FoodieGuide15_Chapter One Review.indd 183 01/12/2014 15:28

SO

What was 2014 like for your pub?It was a busy year for us here at The Nevill

Crest and Gun. We couldn’t wait to start

the New Year as our Christmas in 2013 was

slightly tainted by a six-day power cut

caused by the huge storms. Our customers

were excellent, though – very

understanding and sympathetic. It was

a bit like a soup kitchen here on Christmas Day as we gave away what food we

could to diners who had nothing for

Christmas lunch!

In January we hosted our first Burns

supper with a bagpiper, whisky tasting and,

of course, lots of haggis. We were fully

booked and a great night was had by all;

many sore heads were nursed the next day!

Our next big event of the year was our

Vintage weekend in August. The weekend

was full of excitement, with all the staff

getting on board with some great uniforms

and outfits. Some 30 real ales and ciders

were showcased, along with a gin tea party

on Sunday. The weekend was finished in

style by the kings of swing, The Jive Aces.

The gardens here have been looked after

with passion and style, all thanks to

Graham, our gardener. As the seasons have

changed, the gardens have been mowed

with precision and the borders have been

bursting with colour.

There have been several additions to our

dynamic team here, including our first

Welsh lass, Rebecca Bowen from Loch

Fyne, and Ben Cox, who joins as a career

change from a nine-to-five office job! The

kitchen team continue to be motivated and

led by our Head Chef Jason and Sous Chef

Paul, who bring lots of experience and

knowledge to the table.

How has your menu evolved?It changes monthly and we constantly work

with our suppliers to get the best out of

seasonal produce. We have a traditional

pub-style menu with some more unusual

dishes thrown in for the more adventurous.

Tell us about your top food discovery of last yearMy personal favourite would definitely be

Ras el hanout, which is a spice mix from

North Africa. It’s fantastic in rich, meaty

tagines!

THE NEVILL CREST AND GUN - ERIDGE GREEN


CUISINE: British

ADDRESS: Eridge Road, Eridge Green,

Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN3 9JR

TEL: 01892 864 209

WEB: www.brunningandprice.co.uk/

nevillcrestandgun

NAME: Chef James Hodgson

SO_FoodieGuide15_NevillCrest&Gun.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:25


TO SERVE

Panfry the lamb rump in a hot pan, add the

cake and tomato and finish off in the oven.

Reheat The broccoli and plate as pictured.

METHOD

1) Score the lamb, marinade in garlic and

rosemary and place in the fridge ready for service

2) Cut eight beef tomatoes in half, scoop out the

middle and concasse the other two. Finely dice

the shallots and garlic, chop the herbs and

sweat down in a pan with a little vegetable oil.

Once cooked, add the concasse, check the

seasoning and fill the tomatoes with the

mixture. Place in a tub labelled for service

3) Cook the potatoes for mash and, when

ready to crush, add the butter at the same

time. Check the seasoning and add five

tablespoons of chopped mint, mould into 140g

balls and press into cakes. Tray up ready for

service. Blanch once chilled and tub up ready

for service

4) Cook tender stem broccoli

5) Jus. Sweat down the onion, garlic and

thyme and add the red wine. Reduce down by

half, add the stock and reduce down again by

half. Check the consistency, taste and alter

where needed

6) Add all the reduction ingredients into a pan

and reduce by two thirds

INGREDIENTS

1 x 6-7oz square cut lamb rump

10 plum tomatoes

3 shallots

4 cloves garlic

4 sprigs thyme

4 sprigs rosemary

3tbsp chopped parsley

5kg peeled potatoes

3 packs butter

Seasoning

Chopped parsley/mint

Broccoli

10 litres good beef stock

1 litre red wine

2 shallots

2 cloves garlic

MEET THE CHEFJason Hodgson


I’ve been at The Nevill since it opened in

December 2010.

Describe your culinary background

Having trained at York Technical College in

the good old days of City & Guilds, I worked

in a local hotel in the city until I spread my

wings over to the Channel Islands, where I

met up with our Executive Chef, Mike Carney.

Returning to the UK, I worked at Saughton

Hall in North Wales in a fine dining hotel and

restaurant, then moved on to Brunning and

Price, working my way up to Head Chef at

three of our pub/restaurants. I left for a few

years to further ventures at Whiting &

Hammond before re-joining four years ago.

Tell us about your approach to food

Very focused; things are constantly changing

within the industry, so there’s never a dull

moment and no day is ever the same.

We’re constantly changing the menu for

the healthier and allergy friendly diners

and keeping the traditional dishes for the

loyal customers.


It has to be Rick Stein for his pioneering

approach of selling to the country what a lovely

array of home-grown fish and shellfish we have

to try on and around our shores.


A nice pink rump of lamb with colcannon

mash, accompanied by tender stem broccoli

and Chantenay carrots.


should try in 2015?

More local produce from within our

surrounding county and more unusual

food items.

2014 summer lamb rumpRoast lamb rump with minted potato cake, tender stem broccoli, herb tomato and mint gravyServes 1

Have you seen any trends or changes in customer expectations?Customers are definitely much more

interested in the healthier foods and we’ve

seen a bigger demand for vegetarian meals,

even by meat eaters. It’s always a challenge

to constantly introduce new, exciting

vegetarian dishes while trying to avoid

goat’s cheese or risotto!

What’s new for your diners in 2015?We’re introducing a more comprehensive and

transparent approach to customers who are

affected by food allergies. The Government

will be expecting all premises to do the same,

but our approach will allow customers to go

online and view our menu and the dishes

with their allergens displayed. This will help

give them peace of mind before they arrive.

Can you give a food trend prediction for the coming year?Our insatiable appetite for new foods and

cultures will continue. I’m a huge fan of low

and slow cooked barbecue meats and grills

and I reckon we’ll see a lot more chefs

experimenting with it.


SPONSORED BY

SO_FoodieGuide15_NevillCrest&Gun.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:25

SO

Tell us about the restaurant’s food ethosThe Bistro offers a wide range of

traditional and contemporary dishes

that appeal to all taste preferences.

The Head Chef sources fresh, local

ingredients wherever possible and

uses seasonal vegetables.

Describe the type of cuisine on your menuExotic delicacies such as pan-fried wood

pigeon and lightly spiced duck sit

alongside more traditional dishes like coq

au vin and beer battered cod, while the

dessert menu features perennial

favourites like warm chocolate brownie

and sticky toffee pudding.

From the Bistro’s grill you can select

from a choice of steaks and sauces, or

perhaps try Salomons Estate’s homemade

gastro burger, with smoked Applewood

cheese, spicy tomato chutney, a brioche

bun, pickles and gastro chips. Meanwhile,

the light bites menu includes lighter

options such as a smoked salmon and dill

cream cheese bagel and a Parma ham,

rocket and pesto ciabatta.

What are your ‘must try’ dishes?One dish that comes highly

recommended is our braised belly of pork

in cider, which is accompanied by potato

gratin, roasted apples, braised red

cabbage and a cider jus. Another dish

that has proved popular with diners is the

pan seared salmon with polenta chips,

chargrilled asparagus and gremolata.

SALOMONS ESTATE - TUNBRIDGE WELLS


“The atmosphere at Salomons

Estate is a winning combination

of old-world charm and

friendly, attentive service”

CUISINE: Popular European dishes,

sourced locally wherever possible

ADDRESS: Salomons Estate,

Broomhill Road, Southborough,

Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN3 0TG

TEL: 01892 515 152

WEB: www.salomons-estate.com

NAME: Franck Bellavoine

If you want to savour exquisite cuisine in an elegant setting, look no further than the Bistro at Salomons

Estate, a country house-style venue set in 36 beautiful acres of grounds.

SO_FoodieGuide15_Salomons.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:26


MEET THE CHEFDan Yardley


I’ve been at Salomons Estate for over 10

years, beginning as a Chef de Partie. Having

worked under three different head chefs,

I was invited to step into the position

myself in 2014.


On leaving catering college, I did events

catering for the Chelsea Flower Show,

Hampton Court, Wimbledon and Henley

Regatta before fl ying over to the Paris Air

Show, where I worked alongside Albert Roux.

I then spent two years at the fi ve-star

Lanesborough Hotel in Hyde Park. It was an

absolute buzz because you’re all there for the

same reason – your passion for food. It’s

made me who I am today; I’d jumped about

three levels by the time I returned to

Tunbridge Wells.


From a very young age I was accompanying

my mum to bakeries and fruit and veg stalls,

so she was defi nitely an early infl uence on

me. That’s one of the reasons I introduced a

‘market menu’, where I’ll source local, fresh

produce, new cuts of meat and fi sh, plus

whatever vegetables are in season.


I became very interested in the Roux family,

but I’d say that my real role model is Paul

Gayler. He was Head Chef at the

Lanesborough Hotel, where my career took

me just before my 18th birthday.


My seared red snapper with saffron fondant,

broad bean truffl e purée and a bouillabaisse

sauce. It’s a dish I’m very proud of and it was

a popular choice at the Bistro over the

summer months too.


should try in 2015?

If I had to recommend just one dish

from the current menu, I’d probably

say the lightly spiced duck breast

with sweet potato dauphinoise,

roasted bok choi, red plum and

port jus. It has to be experienced

to be believed!

“From a very young age I was

accompanying my mum to

bakeries and fruit and veg

stalls”

Spiced duck breast with sweet potato dauphinoise, bok choi, plums and a red wine jusServes 4

DIRECTIONS FOR THE SWEET

POTATO DAUPHINOISE

1) Finely chop a small bulb of garlic

2) Lightly fry this in a saucepan and add one litre of

cream, then season

3) Line one deep baking tray with parchment paper

4) Peel and thinly slice two sweet potatoes. Layer the

sweet potato in the baking tray until it is about one

inch deep, pour the cream over the potato and place

in the oven at 170°C for about 20 minutes

DIRECTIONS FOR THE SPICED DUCK BREAST

1) Lightly spice the duck breast with aromatic spices

and seasoning

2) Heat one teaspoon of olive oil in a frying pan until

it is almost smoking

3) Fry the duck breast for one minute on each side and

place in the oven for about 15 minutes

4) Just before you serve the meal, oil and season the halved

plum and bok choi. Place under the grill for fi ve minutes

INGREDIENTS

5kg chicken bones

5kg veal bones

2 litres red wine

2 onions

3 carrots

1 head of celery

1 small bulb of garlic

2 sweet potatoes

1 litre cream

1 duck breast

1 tsp olive oil

Aromatic spices

1 head of bok choi

1 plum

What sets your place apart from other eateries?As well as the exquisite quality of the

food and the exceptional level of

service, what really sets the Bistro

apart is its spectacular setting.

Recently refurbished, the Bistro serves

breakfast, lunch and dinner seven

days a week and, when the weather is

fi ne, guests can dine on the broad

terraces and enjoy the stunning views

overlooking the lake. When it’s slightly

more inclement, diners can still

admire the landscaped grounds from

the comfort of the conservatory.

Can you describe the atmosphere?Intimate, elegant, yet refreshingly

unstuffy. The atmosphere at Salomons

Estate is a winning combination of

old-world charm and friendly,

attentive service.

Sum up your restaurant ina few wordsExquisite cuisine in a beautiful setting.


SPONSORED BY

SO_FoodieGuide15_Salomons.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:27

SO

What’s been happening in the last year?

For a third year running we’ve secured a listing in

the Michelin Eating Pub Guide 2014, which

celebrates the top 550 pubs in the UK – we think

that’s pretty good! Alongside this, we continue to

build The Goudhurst Inn into a sustainable and

successful rural business.

We continue to focus on food and the

surroundings; the terrace looks out over one of

the most beautiful views of the Weald, and our

cosy indoor log fires will keep you warm in winter.

With such versatile space inside and out, we’ve

also catered for weddings, anniversaries, birthday

parties, office events and family get-togethers. We

love hosting a good party, whatever the time of year!

In August 2014 The Goudhurst Inn became

part of Hush Heath Winery, bringing together

two great local businesses that support and

invest in local talent. The coming year promises

to be an exciting time, as further investment is

planned and we will be working to develop the

great food that has always been on offer, while

also building on the wine, restaurant and

hospitality links that promise something

different in this part of England. Watch this

space for what Hush Heath has to bring to the

next stage of The Goudhurst Inn…

THE GOUDHURST INN - GOUDHURST



One year.


Modern English with a classic French twist.


Fresh and local quality raw ingredients. I’ve spent

a lot of time over the last year training up young

chefs to build on our talent base.


Alfred Portale from Gotham Bar and Grill in New

York City – a pioneering American chef who blew

my mind and hooked me on the importance of

presentation.


Pork belly and sticky toffee pudding – need I say

more!

What’s the one dish or delicacy people should

try in the coming year?

I think foodies will continue to try something

new and local and Kent has great things to offer.

Our specials are continually changing, so I’m sure

we’ll have a few unusual offerings in 2015.

MEET THE CHEFIan Hickmott, Head Chef

CUISINE: Modern British / European

ADDRESS: Cranbrook Road,

Goudhurst, Cranbrook, Kent TN17 1DX

TEL: 01580 212 605

WEB: www.thegoudhurstinn.com

NAME: General Manager Lois Dignan

& Head Chef Ian Hickmott

SO_FoodieGuide15_Goudhurst Inn_v2.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:33

How has your menu evolved?

The classic dishes remain firm favourites, but

we continue to evolve with the seasons, using

the best of what our little part of Kent has to

offer: asparagus from Ladysden Farm in the

spring, lamb and beef from Spratsbourne

Farm and game from Taywell Game. There’s

something new every season.

Tell us about your favourite food

discovery of 2014

We continue to be surprised by what

our local producers and craftsmen

provide us with, whether it’s helping

us make our great black pudding,

apple ice cream or fruit juice for

daquiris.

Have you seen any trends or changes

in customer expectations over the

last year?

Diners are loving our sharing boards, be it

meat, fish or vegetarian and our Scotch

eggs continue to be a winner. Customers

expect quality food at a good price and we

strive to deliver this, from our kids’ meals

and Sunday roasts to our bar snacks and

sharing platters.

What’s new for your diners?

Our menus will continue to evolve and

our plan is to build the links with Hush

Heath; having more wine-led dinners

within a specific area of the restaurant

(soon to be expanded and re-modelled),

where you can have a similar experience

to food offerings at the great French

vineyards. We also have plans to extend

the terrace area with pizza all year round

and barbecues for the long, hot summers

(we can always dream!).

Can you give a food trend prediction

for 2015?

Fads and fashions will come and go, but

enduring classic food will remain the

cornerstone and foundation that the food

industry will be built on for a long time to

come. We’re in the Garden of England and

we embrace all things local.


Sticky toffee puddingMakes 1 x 1/1 gastronorm tray - Divide by three to make 10 to 12 darioles

DIRECTIONS FOR PUDDING

1) Bring the dates, water and bicarbonate of soda to the

boil, remove from the heat and leave to sit

2) Cream together the butter and sugar until pale and fluffy

3) Beat in the eggs one at a time until combined, then

gently mix in the flour

4) Bring the dates back to the boil and then pour into the

egg, flour and sugar mix, stirring immediately and mix until it

turns into a thick batter

5) Pour into a tray lined with parchment and bake at 160°C

for 40 minutes

DIRECTIONS FOR SAUCE

1) Place all the ingredients in a pan and simmer until it coats the

back of a spoon, then cut the pudding, pour on the sauce and

serve with custard or ice cream – simple, traditional and delicious!

INGREDIENTS

FOR PUDDING

24oz pitted dates,chopped

3 tsp bicarbonate of soda

30 fl oz water

18oz butter, softened

18oz dark, soft brown sugar

3 eggs

24oz self-raising flour

BUTTERSCOTCH

SAUCE

100g butter

100g dark, soft brown sugar

500ml double cream


SPONSORED BY

SO_FoodieGuide15_Goudhurst Inn_v2.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:33

Chefs are just amazing, aren’t

they? There’s this photo I

have of Andrew Scott, Head

Chef of The Curlew and in it,

he’s smiling, his blue eyes are clear and the

only lines on his face are laughter lines,

those little crow’s feet at the sides of the

eyes. The photograph was taken within

minutes of him telling me that he’d just

worked 13 days of cripplingly long shifts

and that one of his commis chefs had

“disappeared into thin air” because a

relative was sick.

“It’s been hard work,” he had said. And

he looked as fresh as a man just back from

a three-week spa holiday. I guess it’s the

love of the job that does it.

There’s a favourite question I like to

ask chefs: “What are you working on?”

It seems so simple that it’s almost banal,

but if the chef is any good, you can relax,

sit back and listen. And Andrew Scott is

very good indeed.

“I’m trying to do a baked

Alaska,” he says. “I want to

make it fashionable again.

Or Arctic roll. That’s what

I’m working on. For two

people to share.”

Then he’s off, speaking

with passion and clarity

for about five minutes

straight. The conversation is

suddenly strewn with strawberry

bombes, melon pressed with different

alcohols, “posh” chicken, mascapone cream

with black pepper sugar and a lobster cocktail

in a martini glass with an espuma of Marie

Rose. One thing is clear: the affable and

talented Andrew Scott has found a natural

home at The Curlew and he’s obviously loving

every minute of it.

Developed by Mark and Sara Colley – a

former City broker and a research analyst –

The Curlew has only been open in its current

form for four years and Andrew and his sous

chef Neil Bennett have been there for just 10

months. But for those in the know (and

happily, I am one of them), it is already an

institution. It is, in fact, the only place where

the starter is so good that I’ve ordered it again

for pudding (double-baked cheese soufflé – it

kind of works at both ends of the meal).

The Colleys got to know Michelin-starred

chef Graham Garrett of The West House,

Biddenden, when they were

running their first hotel/

restaurant, The George

at Cranbrook and they

invited him in as

consultant to help launch

chef Neil McCue to

position The Curlew.

The restaurant picked up

a Michelin star in the summer

of 2011 and after two and a half

years, Garrett told them, “You don’t

need me anymore” and moved on. McCue

followed him last year and Scott came in

from Michelin-starred Mallory Court outside

Leamington Spa, bringing his sous chef

with him.

Scott had previously worked with Simon

Rogan at L’Enclume Cumbria and at Lords

of the Manor in Upper Slaughter,

Gloucestershire. So, he had previous, as the

catering industry likes to say.

“My background is classical,” Scott says.

“But I do like to present things in a modern

way, not chintzy old school. So I keep to the

seasons and I try to use as much local

produce as possible.”

What that means is that his dry goods

supplier is just up the road at Hawkhurst,

his fish come from Rye (he gets to pick the

best as the supplier passes on his way to

Billingsgate fish market), he uses a local

There are tens of thousands of restaurants in the UK, but only 162 have earned one or more prestigious Michelin stars. The Curlew in Bodiam is the only starred restaurant in East Sussex. Erik Brown went along to find out what makes this eatery one of the elite

This place has star quality


SO_FoodieGuide15_Curlew Review.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:31

butcher who can get him “anything” and a

veg man so committed to the cause that

he’s growing Scott some coriander plants,

just for the flowers; coriander is usually

harvested before the flowers develop.

Even the wine list has a local flavour,

with sparkling wine from Appledore in

Kent and Bluebell Estates in East Sussex

and the first ever English bio-dynamic

wine, from the Sedlescombe vineyard just

five miles away.

Mark and Sara are clearly enthusiastic

about Scott’s cooking: “I’ve never worked

with such an energetic and talented group

of people,” Mark says. But they’re quite

modest about the Michelin star. Glad to

have it, of course, but it’s “not what defines

us”, Mark says. “It’s a family business,” he

adds, “serving the local community.”

If it has also become a destination

restaurant, great – the Colleys are really

proud of that. But they like to keep their

feet on the ground too.

So, to the food. I have a starter of perfectly-

cooked mackerel with pressed cucumber (the

cucumber-iest I’ve ever tasted, in fact), smoked

mackerel parfait, oyster and – what was that? – oh

yes, the faintest hint of wasabi (£9). Now, that by

itself is an impressive stunt. Wasabi doesn’t usually

hint at anything; it just hits you somewhere in the

respiratory tract. This is subtle stuff.

My wife orders the potted crab with fennel

cream, pickled mooli, ginger and crab biscuit

(£9.50). Not given to emotional outbursts, she

nevertheless whispers an audible “oh” when she

tastes the pickled mooli and ginger.

Then for me, the pork fillet and belly with

caramelised onion, walnut and rosemary gnocchi

(£20.50) with tiny, upright cylinders of something

sharp and green – ah yes, local apple – providing

acidity to offset the fatty pork belly and crispy

crackling. Beautifully done.

My wife goes for the Sussex lamb with

cardamom, yoghurt and saag aloo purée (£21).

The lamb, she says, is tender and delicious and

the cardamom yoghurt refreshing and tasty. She

struggles a little with the saag aloo purée – not

really her thing. So, I taste it and like it

a lot; it has a kind of earthiness, an umami flavour,

that complements the meat perfectly.

Then not one, but two desserts: the one

I order (off the “short menu” – £20 for two

courses, £25 for three), olive oil cake with

mascarpone mousse and lemon sorbet, and the

one Scott wanted me to have, mango macaroon

with mascarpone, compressed mango, pineapple

and Szechuan pepper sorbet (£8.50).

The first is excellent, with a lovely light, lemony

sponge and a sharp sorbet. The second is a

standout dish, with the pineapple and pepper

sorbet cutting through the sweetness of the

macaroon and pressed mango. Stunning. Mrs B

agrees – then tucks into a delicious cheesecake of

white chocolate, poached cherries and pistachio

ice cream (£8.50).

Oh, and I indulge in a glass of the Sedlescombe

First Release East Sussex 2011 (£8), so bright and

fresh and fruity that after lunch I drive to the

estate and buy three bottles from the woman

whose husband made it. Don’t you just love this

part of the world?

The Curlew is half an hour from Tunbridge

Wells and the only Michelin-starred restaurant in

East Sussex.

The Curlew, Junction Road,

Bodiam, East Sussex, TN32 5UY

01580 861 394

www.thecurlewrestaurant.co.uk

The potted crab with fennel cream, pickled mooli, ginger and crab biscuit (£9.50).

It’s the only place where the starter is so good that I’ve ordered it

again for pudding (double-baked cheese soufflé – it kind of works

at both ends of the meal)

G O O D G R U B G U I D E SOSPONSORED BY

SO_FoodieGuide15_Curlew Review.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:31

SO

THE LITTLE BROWN JUG - CHIDDINGSTONE CAUSEWAY



I’ve worked for Whiting & Hammond for over fi ve years but

I’ve been at the current site for two months.


I took a two-year Btech National Diploma in hospitality and

catering, and a three-year HND in culinary arts management

at Birmingham University. I’ve worked as a chef in hotels,

banqueting, pubs and restaurants.


I use fresh ingredients from local suppliers of the highest

quality, to deliver the best food possible to the consumer.


Gordon Ramsay, prior to his television corruption.


Braised lamb breast served with dauphinoise potatoes, red

cabbage and apple, pea puree and red wine reduction.

What’s the one dish or delicacy people should try in 2015?

If anyone gets the chance, they should try pineberries. These

are like strawberries but are white and they taste of pineapple.

MEET THE CHEFSteven Ednie, Chef

CUISINE: British

ADDRESS: Chiddingstone Causeway,

Tonbridge, Kent TN11 8JJ

TEL: 01892 870 318

WEB: www.thelittlebrownjug.co.uk

NAME: Chef Steven Ednie

I’ve worked for Whiting & Hammond for over fi ve years but

I took a two-year Btech National Diploma in hospitality and

catering, and a three-year HND in culinary arts management

at Birmingham University. I’ve worked as a chef in hotels,

What’s the one dish or delicacy people should try in 2015?

If anyone gets the chance, they should try pineberries. These

are like strawberries but are white and they taste of pineapple.

SO_FoodieGuide15_LittleBrownJug.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:25


Rolled braised minted lamb breastServes 4

INGREDIENTS

1 large lamb breast

300g minced lamb

2tbs mint sauce

Seasoning

100g butter

4 sprigs of rosemary

BRAISING STOCK

1 onion, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

1 leek, chopped

1 head of celery, chopped

Bulb of garlic, crushed

300g tomato puree

2 litres beef stock

SAUCE REDUCTION

1 bottle of red wine

Small handful of fresh

mint leaves

DIRECTIONS

1) In a bowl mix together the mint

sauce and minced lamb meat, and

season.

2) Place the lamb breast, skin side

down, onto a chopping board. Along

the centre of the lamb, in a sausage

shape running from left to right,

place the minced lamb mix, leaving

enough space either side so that the

breast will roll later without being

overfi lled.

3) Start to roll the breast from top to

bottom in a long cylinder shape and

tie together with butcher’s string,

repeating along the breast until

tied securely.

Tip: Do not over tighten the string, so

as to force fi lling out.

4) Season the outside and place

in an oiled hot pan. Add the butter

and rosemary and colour each side

of the lamb.

5.) Once the breast is nicely

coloured, put to one side until the

braising stock is ready.

6) To make the stock put all the

ingredients (except for the beef

stock) into a large roasting tray and

cooking over a medium heat for

eight to 10 minutes.

7) Place the lamb breast into the

roasting tray on top of the

vegetables and cover with the beef

stock. Seal tightly with tin foil.

Carefully place into a pre heated

oven at 190 for 3 – 4 hours until lamb

is soft to the touch.

8) Remove from the oven once

ready and leave to cool.

9) When the lamb is at handling

temperature remove the string and

place onto a large piece of cling fi lm

and tightly roll, sealing at both ends.

10) Place in the fridge until set.

11) Strain the braising stock, then

place in the fridge until fat on top

has set and can be removed.

Tip: The method this far can be

made in advance and left in the

fridge over night.

12) Pour the bottle of red wine and

mint leaves into a pan and heat on

high, reducing the liquid by two

thirds.

13) Add the lamb stock to the red

wine reduction and reduce further

until thickened and coats the back

of the spoon. Strain the sauce.

14) Pre heat oven to 190C.

15) Portion the lamb into four

whilst still in the cling fi lm and

place upright in a lined baking

tray. Heat in the oven for 25

minutes. Remove from the oven,

remove cling fi lm and serve with

the sauce.

16) Serve with potatoes and

vegetables of your choice.


SPONSORED BY

SO_FoodieGuide15_LittleBrownJug.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:26


Tell us about the restaurant’s ethos when it comes to foodWe have always offered quality food but

now we are really striving to use as much

local produce as possible in our dishes, not

only to support our local community and

economy but because Kent has some of

the best produce on offer. Everything is

prepared fresh and is the result of

inspiration and product availability - not

process, so the menu changes frequently

depending on what has been grown,

picked or delivered that day.

We have promoted local produce here at

the Camden Arms and we already utilise a

lot of Kent’s best items and we will be adding

much more to our new menus in 2015.

How and when did you get involved in this place?We – James and Carol Cunningham – have

been proprietors at the Camden Arms for

over 12 years and have been in the

catering industry over 40 years. Located

in the centre of the village of Pembury, the

Camden Arms was a challenge when we

first took it over but building its reputation

has been very rewarding. With the

addition of a 15-room accommodation

wing five years ago, this 17th century

coaching inn could again call itself “The

Camden Arms Hotel”.

The hotel brings guests from all over the

world and we have added a few continental

dishes to our menu in appreciation of our

short staying guests. Today James and

Carol are very much at ‘the helm’ but

we’re proud that it is a family run

business, with true family values.

Describe the type of dishes on your menuSimple, stylish dining. Our restaurant

offers a variety of dishes to complement

Kentish produce. We pride ourselves on

creating excellent food using fresh local

ingredients. In the summer months,

you can enjoy dining al fresco on our

sun terrace.

Our menu is available daily between

noon and 9pm and offers simplistic dining

in a casual atmosphere and on Sunday,

we offer a three-meat carvery. No problem

whether you are gluten free, vegan or

The Camden Arms - pemburyCUISINE: Traditional with

international influences

ADDRESS: 1 High Street, Pembury,

Tunbridge Wells, Kent TN2 4PH

TEL: 01892 822 012

WEB: www.camdenarms.co.uk

NAME: Manager James Cunningham

SO_FoodieGuide15_Camden Arms.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:35


vegetarian, just let us know when making your room or

table reservation, as nothing is too much trouble for Chef

and his team.

What are your ‘must taste’ dishes?The Camden Arms’ bestseller is the Sunday carvery – at

under £11 it’s a good reason not to cook a Sunday roast!

But our ‘must taste’ dishes have to include the Sizzling

Fajitas, served with either beef or chicken; the smell as

they are brought sizzling to the table is only the prelude

to the effect on the taste buds!

We are also proud of our homemade puddings and pies,

deeply filled and cooked to order.

What sets your place apart from the others?A good menu, fresh produce and good service are words

used by everyone in this publication and whilst very

important, they are prerequisites for any successful

restaurant. What sets us apart is our whole business ethos:

Innovation – the desire to present local meat, vegetables

and fruit ingredients in new and exciting ways; Quality –

every product we make is made to the highest quality and

standard of presentation; Sustainability – our food is

locally sourced wherever possible, from ethical and

likeminded suppliers; Relationships – we strive to build

good relationships with our customers, colleagues and

suppliers; Enjoy – we simply love food. We want you to

enjoy your experience with us at The Camden Arms Hotel.

Can you describe your restaurant in five words?No, just one – great!

WHAT’S COOKINGin 2015

We are always experimenting with new ingredients, to produce different

taste experiences with classic pub food. Our menu changes monthly to

ensure we’re the first to offer fresh local produce as and when it is

picked or harvested, together with other ingredients sourced from as

far away as France. (Yes, we really do go monthly to French markets.)

We are going back to basics, enhancing and improving our classic pub

dishes, with an emphasis on ‘fresh and seasonal produce’. Returning for

the winter months will be our homemade pies and puddings, with six

different fillings, homemade soup and flavours changing daily. As spring

approaches, locally reared lamb will be on the menu in various

mouth-watering dishes. Our local fish supplier will ensure we have the

prize of the catch, all sourced from the waters of the South Coast.

Summer will see a variety of colourful salads on the menu including

a crab and avocado and a superb salad Nicoise. These will be on the

menu alongside our customers’ favourites, such as the rack of ribs,

with smoked Mississippi or spicy chilli sauce and our home ground

steak burgers.

What changed last year was the installation of a hot and cold smoker,

which we envisage using to develop our menu this year with more

home smoked products. We intend to install a wood burning grill in the

next year and develop more grilled dishes, which we believe is in line

with market trends – local food at good prices.

SPONSORED BY

SO_FoodieGuide15_Camden Arms.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:35


THE KINGS HEAD - SEVENOAKSCUISINE: British

ADDRESS: Westerham Road,

Bessels Green, Sevenoaks,

Kent TN13 2QA

TEL: 01732 452 081

WEB: www.kingsheadbesselsgreen.co.uk

NAME: Head Chef Jonny Gain

MEET THE CHEFJonny Gain


I’ve been here since the pub opened in March 2014.


I had only a few years’ experience as a chef before joining

Whiting & Hammond in 2006, so I’ve learned pretty much all

of my knowledge through the chefs I’ve worked with in the

company. I fi rst joined the group at The Plough, working under

Colin Gilbert, and have moved around different sites since then.


It would have to be Keith Floyd. I loved his passion for

fl avours and classic cooking techniques.


I wouldn’t say I have one, but I love making classic British

winter dishes. You can’t beat a nice suet pudding.

What’s the one dish or delicacy people should

try in 2015?

I think everyone should try brawn. It’s basically

all the meat from a pig’s head, plus jelly, which is

then pressed into a mould – delicious!

“I think everyone should

try brawn. It’s all the

meat from a pig’s head,

plus jelly, which is then

pressed into a mould”

SO_FoodieGuide15_Kings Head.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:28


Braised oxtail ravioliin tomato pasta, salt beef and fi re roasted red pepper ragù, carrot crisps

Serves 4

DIRECTIONS FOR THE FILLING

1) Dice the carrots, celery and onion

into 5mm cubes

2) Braise the oxtail slowly with the

carrots, celery, onion, bay leaf and

beef stock until you can just pull it

from the bone. Reserve the cooking

liquor and strain

FOR THE PASTA

1) Add all the ingredients into a food

mixer with a dough hook attached

and mix until smooth and elastic.

Leave in the fridge for an hour

before using

2) Cut the pasta in half. Feed each

half through a pasta machine

(setting 0, or as thin as possible) so

that you are left with two long

strips (you will have to work quickly

here to stop the pasta drying out,

so organisation is key)

3) On one strip place 250 to 300g

portions of the oxtail at spaced

intervals and brush around the

portions with egg wash. Lay the

other strip of pasta over the top

and use a pastry cutting ring to cut

out your raviolis. These will need to

be cooked in rapid boiling salted

water for four to fi ve minutes

FOR THE RAGÙ

1) Roast the peppers over an open

fl ame until the skins turn black,

then remove

2) Sweat down the shallots and the

garlic for two to three minutes, then

turn up the heat and add the salt

beef. Fry for two minutes, stirring

continuously, then add the chopped

tomatoes, sliced roasted peppers

and oxtail stock and reduce until a

thick ragù consistency is achieved

3) Add the torn basil just before

you serve and fi nish with the butter

to give the sauce a velvety fi nish

FOR THE CARROT CRISPS

1) Peel the carrots and use the

peeler to slice long, thin strips. Cut

these in half lengthways and fry at

140°C until crispy

Serve and enjoy!

INGREDIENTS

FOR THE FILLING

1.5kg braised oxtail

2 carrots, 4 stalks of celery

1 Spanish onion

1 bay leaf

1.5 litres beef stock

FOR THE PASTA

250g type 00 fl our

8 large egg yolks

1 tsp tomato purée

1 tsp basil oil

FOR THE RAGÙ

2 shallots

4 cloves of garlic

300g salt beef

500g chopped tomatoes

2 red peppers

400ml oxtail stock

Half a bunch of basil

2 tsp butter

FOR THE CARROT

CRISPS

2 carrots

Preparation time: 2 hours

Cooking time: 2-3 hours

Note: This recipe requires the pasta to be placed in the

fridge for 1 hour before cooking

“This dish is packed with intense fl avours. The ravioli itself is the

classic beef and tomato combination, which works amazingly well

with the sweet and salty ragù, while the salt beef adds lovely

texture and gives it a great meaty fl avour. We garnish the dish

with basil and carrot crisps for a nice crunch – it has proved very

popular on our menu when the sun comes out to play!”


SPONSORED BY

SO_FoodieGuide15_Kings Head.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:29

SO

THE MARK CROSS INN - NR TUNBRIDGE WELLS


CUISINE: British

ADDRESS: Mark Cross, Nr Tunbridge

Wells, Crowborough, East Sussex

TN6 3NP

TEL: 01892 852 423

WEB: www.themarkcross.co.uk

NAME: Head Chef Ed Molesworth

MEET THE CHEFEd Molesworth


I’ve been working for Whiting & Hammond as a

sous chef since we opened The Kings Head in

Sevenoaks back in April. I took over at The Mark

Cross Inn as Head Chef at the beginning of October.


I’ve done many things in my life, all of which have

revolved around this industry. I’ve travelled and love

cooking Oriental foods and utilising spices and

techniques I’ve picked up from India, China and other

parts of South East Asia. I’ve run my own pub and

hotel in the past, but I wanted to get back into the

kitchen full time, which is where my passion lies.


It should be natural; you see something and you

want to cook it. I never have a shopping list – I go

to a market and, if I like the look of something, I

then build my dish or menu around that.


Mrs Beaton.


I don’t have one. I have a lot of dishes I like and,

depending on the time of year, I bring out an old or

new trusted favourite. I’m particularly fond of

cooking game, especially with it being so plentiful

in the area. I also love Indian cuisine.

What’s the one dish

or delicacy people

should try in 2015?

Venison – it’s great

value, has great fl avour

and is very versatile.

SO_FoodieGuide15_Mark Cross.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:24


DIRECTIONS FOR THE PARFAIT

1) Preheat the oven to 125°C. Pour the port into a saucepan and

add the thyme. Place on a high heat and boil to reduce the port to

100ml. Strain off the thyme from the thickened port

2) Place the cleaned livers in a blender with the reduced port and

juniper berries. With the motor running, add the yolks, eggs and

warm clarified butter. Season with the sea salt and black pepper.

Pass this mix through a fine sieve, discarding any lumps

3) Line a standard loaf tin or individual Kilner jars with plastic wrap,

leaving plenty overhanging. Fill with the liver mix

4) Place the tin in the centre of a deep oven dish and carefully pour

in hot water to three quarters of the way up the sides of the tin.

Cover the lot tightly with tinfoil and place in the oven. Cook for 20 to

25 minutes, then peel back the foil and check the parfait

5) It’s cooked when it’s just set, but still a little nervous in the centre.

If not ready, cover again tightly and return to the oven, checking

every five to 10 minutes until done. Remove and leave to cool on a

rack for one hour, then refrigerate until required (at least six hours

or overnight)

DIRECTIONS FOR THE APPLE JELLY

1) Place the vinegar in a saucepan and boil to reduce to around

one tablespoon. Add the apple juice and boil again to reduce to

250ml (1 cup)

2) Soak the gelatine leaves in cold water for one minute, then

remove and add to the hot, reduced apple juice. Stir until combined,

then add the calvados. Pour onto the set parfait and allow to set.

Pheasant liver parfaitServes 4

INGREDIENTS

FOR THE PARFAIT

600ml port

5 sprigs fresh thyme

500g pheasant livers,

trimmed of sinew

4 juniper berries

4 egg yolks

2 eggs

500g clarified butter,

melted and still warm

3/4 tbsp sea salt (half the

amount if using regular salt)

1/4 tsp fresh, finely ground

black pepper

CALVADOS APPLE JELLY

100ml cider vinegar

250ml clear apple juice

(reduced from 1 litre)

1/4 recipe pheasant

consommé (250ml)

3 gelatine leaves

1 tbsp calvados


SPONSORED BY

SO_FoodieGuide15_Mark Cross.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:24


There’s nothing worse than

eating a dish that has so many

flavours going on that you can’t

tell one from the other

CUISINE: British

ADDRESS: Stumble Hill,

Shipbourne, Tonbridge,

Kent TN11 9PE

TEL: 01732 810 360

WEB: www.thechaser.co.uk

NAME: Head Chef Daniel Curtis

THE CHASER INN - SHIPBOURNE

MEET THE CHEFSimon Brazier


One year and three months.


I started cooking back when I was 15; I was doing

an apprenticeship in a pub and going to college one

day a week. I then moved on to hotels and

eventually went back into gastro-style pubs, always

working with fresh food. I had my fi rst head chef

position when I was 29.


It’s always been the same – fresh, local and

seasonal. I try to keep my food simple, not trying to

overcomplicate it and letting the produce speak for

itself. There’s nothing worse than eating a dish that

has so many fl avours going on that you can’t tell

one from the other.


It has to be Gordon Ramsay. I just love his style of

cooking and the presence he brings into his

kitchens. Plus, I almost swear as much as he

does!


I’ve never really had a signature dish as such,

but something I do like is game. A dish that

I’ve cooked quite a few times is confi t duck leg

with creamy mashed potatoes, red wine sauce

and crispy seaweed.


should try in 2015?

Everyone should try oysters. Not being a great

lover of fi sh, I tried them myself for the fi rst

time recently and they have a simplicity about

them that goes along with my own style of

food – nice and simple. Did I like them? Let’s

just say they’re not for me, but that doesn’t

mean you won’t enjoy them. Put a little

Mignonette (shallots and white wine vinegar)

on them and a squeeze of lemon to help bring

out the fl avour.


and you need to be

interested in

it to succeed”

SO_FoodieGuide15_Chaser Inn.indd 182 01/12/2014 16:34


Slow braised ox cheek ragùServes 4

DIRECTIONS

1) In a large ceramic dish, seal off the ox cheek in a little oil.

Once sealed, remove from the pan and place to one side

2) Add the onion, carrots and celery and cook until just

softening. De-glaze the dish with the bottle of wine and add

the chopped tomatoes and bay leaves. Bring to the boil and

add the ox cheek back to the pan. Cover and place in a low

oven at 140°C for three to four hours until tender and falling

apart

3) Once cooked, remove the ox cheek and place the liquor

onto the stove to reduce down to a sauce consistency. Shred

the ox cheek and add back to the sauce. Remove the bay

leaves and season with salt and pepper to taste

4) For the mash, boil the potatoes for 22 to 30 minutes until

soft, then strain, add the butter and mash or put through a

ricer. Add cream, salt and pepper to taste

5) Blanch the parsnips for fi ve minutes in boiling water, then

transfer to a hot oven dish with oil, drizzle with a little honey

and roast for 20 minutes in a hot oven until golden-brown

with a little crisp

6) Cook the kale straight from the bag in a pan with a few

knobs of butter and sauté until bright in colour and starting

to go crispy. Serve the mash, kale and parsnips next to a

good sized portion of the ox cheek ragù

INGREDIENTS

1 ox cheek

1 onion, chopped

2 carrots, roughly chopped

2 sticks celery, roughly chopped

1 bottle red wine

2 tins chopped tomatoes

(home size)

2 bay leaves

Salt and pepper to taste

6 large potatoes

1 pack butter

Cream to taste

4 large parsnips

Honey

1 bag ready prepped kale

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 3 to 4 hours for

the ox cheek, 1 hour for the rest

of the dish

“I enjoy nothing more than a rich

casserole or stew made with the

cheaper cuts of meat that you can

slow braise and then reduce the

liquor to a rich, dark, full-on sauce.

This is a perfect example of what can

be done to a cheap cut to make it

amazing in taste and feed a family for

very little cost. It’s best enjoyed on a

cold, rainy day after a walk to the

pub, drying off in front of the fi re and

sipping on a quality Barossa Shiraz.”



and you need to be

interested in

it to succeed”

SPONSORED BY

SO_FoodieGuide15_Chaser Inn.indd 183 01/12/2014 16:35

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