This 1" wide skew is 1/4" thick and

features a 30 degree bevel angle with a

65 degree skewed edge. This skew is

used primarily to turn soft woods.

What is a Skew Chisel?

A skew chisel is a long, flat, bevel-edged chisel with an angled tip. The long point of the chisel's cutting edge is called the toe,

whereas the shortest point of the cutting edge is called the heel. In most cases, it's the toe of the skew chisel that gets the novice

woodturner into trouble with the skew chisel. If presented improperly, the toe can easily dig-in to the turning in a most unnerving

fashion.

This is one tool that most turners either love, or really dislike. There does not seem to be any middle ground. This is certainly one

of the harder tools for a woodturner to master but once mastered, it can be a very useful addition to your woodturning tool

inventory. Used primarily on spindle projects, the skew can produce very clean; smooth cuts on end grain and side grain surfaces

and excels at straight and taper cuts. Skews are usually available in numerous widths including, 3/8", ½", 5/8", ¾", 1', 1.25“,

1.375“ and 1.5”. Round skews are available in 3/8" and ½".

Skew Chisels

Skew chisel 12° <20°● For softwoods. ● For hard woods. ● The skew angle should be ~ 70°. ● Generally the bevel is 1½ times the thickness of the tool. ● Round over the short point (the heel) of the tool. ● Rectangular skews may be sharpened by adjusting the platform to the correct angle. ● Radiused skews require rotating the tools to follow the curvature. ● Skews also benefit from honing after grinding.

This is a small compilation of data about skew chisels from woodturning web sites and tool

manufacturers. There are many different shaped tools from various professional turners. The more I

looked, the more I found. This is not exhaustive only a start. I found skews with bevel angles from 15

to 55 degrees and skew angles from 60 to 90 degrees. Some would call it a “Double Bevel Angled

Scraper.”

Toe

Heel

Skew angle

Bevel Angle

Skew Chisels

http://pin.it/uUaxqSO http://pin.it/-m6C0cu

“Skew practice 2" on YouTube

https://youtu.be/vA91yJ9KhKU

https://goo.gl/images/MSUknY

http://pin.it/b5pTUib

31 Minutes / Skew Grinds / Brian Havens

https://youtu.be/dmCxDToHm6Y

Watch "Woodturning: Sharpening Lacer Skew" on YouTube

Skew Chisels

An alternate shape minimizes dig-ins.by Alan LacerAlan Lacer, (715) 426-9451, www.alanlacer.com

Reshaping the Skew ChiselBy: American Woodworker EditorsSeptember 15, 2009

https://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/reshaping-the-skew-chisel

Shape the Sides Grind the straight and curved profiles Grind the curved section

Hone and Test the Edge Two Tools in One

With both straight and curved sections, a modified skew is quite versatile.

Curved area is great for these tasks:

– Planing and rolling cuts. Lead with the short point side and cut with the tool’s

curved section, you cannot dig in. Digging in is a real problem with a

conventional skew and a bane to all novice turners.

– Planing chip-prone woods, such as red oak or figured maple.

– Forming the concave and convex sections of a spindle.

Straight section is great for these tasks:

– Peeling away wood, like a large parting tool.

– Slicing rounded pommels (with the long point down).

– Scraping end grain and knots.

– Working in tight areas. The curve creates a small clearance.

Skew Chisels

The skew chisel is a versatile and invaluable tool for any turner, and is almost exclusively used when turning spindles. It will plane, turn beads,

make 'V' cuts, pummel cuts and turn long, shallow coves. It can also be used to create dovetails for various chucking methods. It is available in

many forms and sizes from micro to huge: 3mm (1/8in) to 38mm (1 1/2in). Some turners prefer one type over another, but I personally

recommend the 25mm (1in) flat/traditional skew chisel to all beginners as it is generally more stable and easier to sharpen. However, it will take

more effort to master.

In this article, I will show you some simple exercises to help build an understanding of techniques needed when using the tool.

Monday 14 September 2009

Basic presentation to make a planning cut

The skew chisel should be presented 'toe up' at an angle to the timber handle, trailing away from the direction of the cut, allowing the bevel to rub against the timber with the tool supported at the corner rather than the flat areas of the tool; this being directly behind the point of the cut. The tool rest should be at a position appropriate for the size of tool being presented. It can on occasions be raised a little if turning small diameter spindles, but at no other time. To achieve a cut, lift the handle and a shaving will start to appear over the cutting edge - often initially this appears as dust. Try to keep the handle in a position that feels comfortable. If you become tense while using a tool it will not flow smoothly along the timber/tool rest, so try to make fluid cuts from a relaxed position.Control is gained in two ways: lifting the tool up and down (this will control the depth of cut) and by rotating the wrist (this will control the cut position along the cutting edge). Both of these movements are very small indeed and are more about feel and sensitivity. As turning progresses, the need to look at what the tool needs to do becomes intuitive. Feel is of utmost importance with the skew as the density of timber is felt more with this tool than any other. Always start at the center of the blank working towards the ends.Step 1Place the heel of the tool against the timber, toe up (in neutral). Lift the handle gently until you see dust starting to come over the edge of the tool: at this point the tool is beginning to cut. Lift it very slightly and you should see shavings starting to appear and gently start to travel along the blank until you reach the endStep 2Here we can see the tool cutting at its sweet spot, or perfect position. This is never higher than the centre line of the tool or there is a high risk the toe will dig into the timber and make a glorious mess of the wood

http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/wood-turning/techniques/beginners-guides/turning-tools/the-skew-chisel/

https://goo.gl/images/MSUknY

Skew Chisels

Making 'V' cuts

When making a 'V' cut using the skew, you must ensure that each cut must be made progressively wider. Ensure only to cut with the very point/toe of the tool, remembering to move the handle to each side of the 'V' whilst making a lifting arc as the tool travels into the wood.Step 1Using only the toe of the skew chisel, score a line to the left of the pencil line, going deep enough to score the fibers at the outer diameter of the blank and no more (if you go too deep the timber may well burn)Step 2Now, move the tool to the opposite side of the 'V' and repeat the first cut, but this time going slightly deeper than you did previously. Continue as before working on one side, then the other, until you have gone as deep as is required

Skew Chisels

Turning beads

When turning beads it is important to try and achieve a balanced bead. Today, I still visualize a large balloon tractor tire. Remember to only remove the material that is not required to create the finished bead and look carefully as work progresses to determine where the material needs to be removed. It is amazing how little material actually needs removing in order to successfully create a bead; the center is usually not touched at all during this process.Step 1Start at the corner with the tool presented at a slight angle, and roll to the right-hand side. Do not start at the center. Remove the corner using the point/toe of the skew. With one cut already made the bead is beginning to take shape. The tool should end up at right angles to the spindle and the edge should be vertical to the bed of the lathe. Next, do as above, but ensure to use the tool to blend curved areas with greater controlStep 2Make a second cut, but roll the tool more to the right whilst lifting the handle as it travels down the curve. At the same time swing the handle to the right for the right-hand side of the beadStep 3Here you can clearly see the finish position of the tool still with the handle trailing to produce a slicing action as it travels into the wood. Now, repeat for the left-hand side of the bead but in a mirrored movement of the right

Skew Chisels

Making pummel cuts

One way of forming a pummel is to start by making a 'V' cut at the point where the transition from the square to the round is required. Mark a pencil line all round the workpiece where the 'V' cut is to be made. The 'V' cut itself is made in exactly the same way as a 'V' cut in a round section. Making the cut in the square blank is more difficult because the corners cannot be seen clearly; there is therefore a danger of chipping the corners. It may help to put something white on the bed of the lathe behind the workpiece; this may help to make the corners more visible. Note: the 'V' must be stopped immediately as the bottom of the cut forms a continuous circle around the workpiece. Having made the 'V' cut, the corners on the section of the workpiece beyond the pummel can be removed with a gouge, but take care not to damage the corners of the pummel. Step 1Mark two lines on the face of the timber: this is the center and outer corner of the cut. Here they are 10mm (3/8in) apart, usually made on two faces to allow a visual reference as the wood begins to rotateStep 2Make the first cut to the right-hand side of the left-hand line as you would for a normal 'V' cutStep 3Now, move the tool to the right and make the cut to the left of the right hand lineStep 4Repeat the first cut and move slowly back towards the line until it meets the point of entryStep 5Repeat the cuts until the 'V'/pummel is to sufficient depth to break the square and make a complete round in the timber. Here you can see the finished pummel cut

Making a shoulder or facing cut

To make this cut, line up the bevel to the face that is to be cut. Using the toe/point of the skew, travel across the area using only the very point of the skew. This leaves a very fine finish on the surface being cut and once again shows how versatile this tool really is.

Skewchigouge

Designed in England by professional turner Allan Beecham, this tool gives the clean finish from a skew chisel with the ease of using a gouge. The nasty catches associated with a skew chisel are kept to an absolute minimum. This tool is great for rolling beads and cutting coves on spindle work. The "Skewchigouge" is sharpened using a fine diamond hone on the top of the bevel of the tool. The blade is 7-1/2" long and is fitted with an 8-1/2" handle.

http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=packard&Category_Code=tools

The Round Skews are good for smaller work and are a natural for forming small beads. Tool length is 6" with a 10" long handle.

Packard Round Skew comes in ½”, 3/8‘’, ¼” sizes.

Round Skews

"Rolled Edge" Skew Chisels

The Rolled Edge Skew Chisels move smoothly on the tool rest and makes rolling beads easier. These skew chisels have a tool length of 6" and come fitted with 10" handles.Packard 1/2‘’ / 3/4” / 1” / 1 1/4” Rolled Edge Skew

1/2" Tompkins V-Skew

This tool will help avoid most catches turners experience from using a "standard" skew chisel. Professional woodturner and teacher Keith Tompkins came up with this design to help students be more successful when learning to turn. He found that even experienced woodturners benefited from using the V-Skew.The V-Skew can be used on the outside of faceplate work as a shear scraper to perfect the finish. Positioned flat on the tool rest,the point of the tool can be used to make roughing cuts or decorative v-grooves. Flip the tool over with the bevel facing upwards and it can be used as a negative rake scraper.The Tompkins V Skew is made of 1/4" thick M2 high speed steel and is available in 1/2" and 3/4" widths. The blade measures 6-1/2" and comes fitted with a 10-1/2" Ash Handle with brass ferrule. The tool is easily sharpened using a diamond hone on the top faceof the tool. Instructions for using and sharpening the tool are included.

Ray Key 1/2" Skew Chisel

This skew chisel has a longer cutting edge on it with a curve and measures 1/2" wide by 1/4" thick. Tool length is 6" with a 9-1/2" handle.

Sorby 1'' Skew Chisel

The Oval Skew Chisel, designed by Sorby, slides on the tool rest easier without marring it. Overall length is 16-1/4" for the 1/2" and 3/4" while the 1" is 18-1/4" overall

These Skew Chisels are made of 1/4” thick HSS and are perfect for smoothing spindle work and making beads. Overall length for the 1/2” and 3/4” is 16-1/4”, the 1” is 18-1/4” long.

Oval Skew Chisel

Made by Hamlet Craft Tools of Sheffield England to Alan Lacer's specifications, these skews are available in 5/8" or 1-3/8" wide sizes. Each tool measures 3/8" thick with a tool length of 6-1/2". The cutting edge is curved to make for a larger sweet spot and to help reduce catches. The edge on the long point side is square to make v-cuts easier while the edge on the short point side is rolled over making smoothing cuts and rolling beads easier.The Lacer Skews are made of 3/8" thick M2 high speed steel. Both tools come fitted with a 14" handle while the 1-3/8" tool has a 16" handle.

Richard uses skews with a curved edge. This facilitates making cuts

easier than with the traditional straight edge skew chisel. The tool

length of these skews is about 7" with the thickness ranging from

3/16" to 5/16". The Radius Skews come fitted with 9-1/2" handles.

Radius Skews

Skew Chisels

Skew chisels: I prefer rectangular sectioned skews, the heavier the better (at least 1/4" thick, better yet, 5/16" or 3/8") with the short point side rounded back to the ferrule, the long point side chamfered back to the ferrule. I do not like the oval sectioned skews: they are overly thinned out, rock on the tool rest when grinding, nearly impossible to do the peeling cut (which I use a great deal), and presents a changing angle to the wood as presented in several of the cuts below--such as the rolling cut.

Sizes: I primarily work with two sizes: a smaller one that is 1/2" or 5/8" and a larger one that is 1 1/4" or 1 3/8". These sizes work well on all the cuts below on stock 3" in diameter down to miniature sizes. Preparation: get it sharp through grinding, refine the edge through hand honing (I prefer a diamond hone) or using power honing on a MDF wheel charged with buffing compound that cuts high speed steel. Make sure the tool rest is filed flat and clean, perhaps wax the top surface. Drive the work with a cup center rather than a spur-especially if you are in a learning phase. Cuts: Not for face-grain work, but with grain running parallel to the lathe bed!!!!! Always protect your eyes!!!!!

Skew ChiselsAlan Lacer

www.alanlacer.com

Planing:Most commonly done with the short point down and leading the cut, positioned at about 45 degrees to the axis of lathe. Problems: skating, dig-in, ribbing, chip-out.

Roughing: Using the tool in the same position as the planing cut, the skew can be used to round smaller diameters (usually under 2 1/2") and shorter pieces (generally under 18" in length). Is very much a pushing off of the corners to reach the cylinder? Inchippy woods like red oak or ash, I use the planing approach but shorten the length of each cut or use a peeling approach-followed by a planing cut to clean the surface.

Vee:Long point down, cutting with an arcing motion. For the first cut, the point is at a right angle to the axis of the lathe. To deepen or widen the "V" that is created, come from the side of the original cut, being sure to clear the long cutting edge away from the area just cut. Problems: skating, burning, "stalling out.“

Shoulder: Long point is down, long cutting edge is tilted away from the face of the shoulder only a few degrees (2 to 5). Cut is performed high on the work, using an arcing motion and ending above the center axis of the lathe. Problems: skating on entry or at any time on the face of the shoulder, dig-in, "stalling out," torn grain.

Saucer:Done very much like the shoulder cut, except the action is now concave. Since this is cutting somewhat against the grain, don't take the cut too deeply into the end-grain. Useful in doing the bottom of projects like a goblet, vase, toothpick holder, lidded box, etc. or for cutting rings free on a shaft.

Skew ChiselsAlan Lacer

www.alanlacer.com

Parting:Done with the long point down, a series of vee cuts to part a small piece off at the headstock side. Tends to avoid many of the problems of parting tools: cleaner cut on the end-grain and seldom snaps the piece off near the conclusion to create a small hole in the end of the project.

Pummel: The process of turning square elements that transition into round. I prefer to cut these with the long point down-especially square shouldered pummels. Layout the placement with a single 90-degree line (using a square or protractor). Cut to the waste side with a Vee cut-then turn away material on the waste side until you reach a cylinder (using either a peeling or planing cut). Make the cut to the line using the same method as for a shoulder cut (for the square shouldered pommel). For a curved pommel, make two 90-degree lines-one for the ending point (meets the rounded area of your project) and one for the starting point of the pommel. I usually go ahead and create a square pommel at the end point. Then in a series of light cuts, add a curving motion to create the curved surface until you reach the line that marks the starting point of the pommel. If a relatively friendly wood, I lead with the long point through the entirety of the cut. If a difficult wood (usually very soft or easily torn on the end grain), I start with the long point in the wood, then raise the handle with my back hand to allow cutting in the area just above the long point.

Rolling: Using the skew to produce a convex shape, such as a bead. For small beads (under 3/8" wide or less) I often use the long point. For most beads and other convex shapes of a larger size I make the cut with the short point down. You may cut with the short point in the wood (to assist with keeping the tool against the side of the bead and with a bevel rubbing) or with the area above the short point but not above the center of the tool's long cutting edge. Problems: skating (creating slashes in the bead), dig ins (getting the trailing edge/point pulled into the wood), shapes that are not rounded-but were intended to be convex.

Skew ChiselsAlan Lacer

www.alanlacer.com

Coving: Using the skew to produce a concave shape. Usually done with the short point down, moving the tool with a scooping action. Here the curved edged skew certainly performs better. Problems: skating and failure to produce a curved surface in the cove.

Peeling: Using the skew like a veneer peeler's action on a log. The cutting edge (or straight section) is held parallel to the lathe's axis, but with the handle low in back to provide a cutting edge that has bevel support-not a scraping action with just a sharp edge. I normally use only a portion of the tool's edge as too heavy of a cut is hard to make or control. This is a sizing andrough cut-not for finishing. It can be used to take the corners off of a square, cut tenons, or remove large amounts of waste material. This is a wasting and roughing cut.

Rough-Grain:Using the skew as the final tool to work an area of twisted grain, severe chip-out or even a knot. First the area is lightly cutwith a roughing gouge, cutting edge at a 90 angle to the lathe's axis, with bevel support. Make the cuts across the difficultarea lighter and lighter until almost dust like in their action. Next, be sure the tool rest is almost touching the wood; cutting edge of the skew is held parallel to the lathe's axis, tool handle is horizontal; edge is presented in a scrapping approach withno bevel support. Make very light passes across the difficult area, completing with only the lightest of cuts.

End-Grain Scrape:Using the skew for scraping directly across end -grain as found on the rims or bases of such projects as lidded boxes, goblets, toothpick holders, etc. Get the tool extremely sharp by honing, place the tool rest as close to the work as possible, present the tool facing the end-grain area, the tool handle should be horizontal (to present the edge in a scraping approach with no bevel support) and lightly scrape across the area. You should be getting tiny ribbons rising from the edge-if not, you may be tearing the grain.

Skew ChiselsAlan Lacer

www.alanlacer.com

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2010/02/16/creating-a-pummel-the-square-to-round-section-in-turnings

Creating a Pummel, the Square-to-Round Section in Turnings

Skew Chisels

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Skew Chisels

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