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1 Copyright © 2015 Claudia Dinnell

All rights reserved. No part of this may be reproduced in any form or by any means without written permission from the copyright holder. These

designs & instructions are for personal non-commercial use by the original purchaser only and are protected under US & International Laws.

www.claudiascreationsaz.com

Through the Woods

Finished size 52” x 26”

Over the River depicts the cherished childhood memories of

celebrating life and families together.

In this Embroidery Workshop students will learn Claudia’s technique for accurately

Multi-Hooping oversized designs with perfect placement!

Pre-class work advised

Each student must purchase the design, Over the River $50.00

Available exclusively to students in the workshop

Original artwork by Nyssa Benthin

Digitized by Claudia Dinnell

http://www.claudiascreationsaz.com/





Over the River supply List

Finished size 52”x26”

Design: Over the River by Claudia Dinnell Fabric Supply List: ½ yard White tone on tone Background fabric ¼ yard Coordinating tone on tone for word borders ¼ yard Black or dark Fabric for sashing ¼ yard Print Fabric for piecing checkboard ¼ yard White tone on tone for piecing checkerboard 2 ½ yards Polymesh Cutaway Stabilizer (20” wide) 2 ½ yards Shape Flex 101 by Pellon ½ yard Binding 1 ½ yards Backing 55” x 30” Batting

Embroidery Supply List: Minimum Hoop Requirements: 6” wide by 12” high (Mega Hoop) All Hoops must have a grid/template Medium Weight Tear Away Temporary Adhesive Spray Removable fabric marking pen Basic embroidery kit including small doubled curved scissors, long straight pointy tweezers, etc. Embroidery Needles 80/12 Threads: 40 wt. Embroidery Thread or 50 wt. Cotton Thread Outlining Color Shading Color Black Tan (2-3 Shades darker than the background fabric)

Sewing Supply List 50wt. Cotton Thread matching the fabric for piecing Basic sewing kit including scissors, pins, rotary cutter & mat, long straight ruler, etc. Spray Starch Optional: 20 ½” square ruler for accurate marking & trimming or the largest square you have!






Cutting and fabric Preparation Instructions

Background Fabric

Iron and starch the fabric Cut (1) strip 18”x width of fabric: Shape Flex: Cut (1) strip 18”x width of fabric: Same size as background fabric. First steam iron and starch the fabric. Then place the woven interfacing (Shape Flex 101 by Pellon) adhesive side down, on the wrong side of the fabric. Spray with water. Use your hands to smooth out the moistened Shape Flex over the fabric before using the steam iron. Set the steam iron on the center area of the Shape Flex and hold the iron long enough to dry & seal the two layers together, but not so long that it scorches the fabric! Pick up the iron and place it close to the first spot. Repeat until all the interfacing is sealed to the fabric. This will “pre-shrink” both fabric and interfacing. The Shape Flex will shrink, that is expected. All the edges of the Shape Flex should be sealed to the fabric. If “air bubbles” are showing on the fabric, you need to spray with water and press again. Polymesh Cutaway Stabilizer: (lightweight woven cut-away mesh stabilizer) Cut a piece of Polymesh stabilizer 3-4” larger than the background fabric. You may need to piece (use adhesive spray) the Polymesh to get the size needed. Center the fabric block on the Polymesh. Use adhesive spray to fuse the Polymesh to the block. The fabrics should be smooth and lay flat. . Note: Cutting the Polymesh stabilizer larger than the block is for positioning your hoop without adding extra stabilizer for the designs that are close to the edge.

Marking the Block: Use a removable marking pen. On the front (right side) of the block, draw a center crosshair the full length and width of the fabric. The lines must be perpendicular to each other. Additionally, for the top & bottom panels, draw vertical lines 8” on either side of the center. See picture below. Sewing the Stabilizer to the Block: Sew (walking/dual feed foot) close to the edge (less than ¼”) completely around the edge of the fabric. Use a normal stitch length. This will secure the stabilizer to the fabric and reduce stretching during embroidery. The two fabrics must be smooth and lay flat without puckers. Add basting lines on the top & bottom panels. With a basting stitch, sew (4) vertical lines 4” and 8” on either side of center. See large dotted lines.

See Picture: Black solid lines / drawn crosshairs Tiny Dotted line around edge of fabric / normal stitching to secure the fabric to the stabilizer Large Dotted lines / basting stitches in between the drawn crosshairs






Tips for Successful Embroidery!

Keep these pages accessible, you will need to refer to these “Tips” throughout your embroidery!!

Follow Claudia’s two step “Perfect Placement Technique” for accuratly multi-hooping large designs! Step #1: Marking the design’s first stitch location on the grid: Attach the hoop and grid to the module with no fabric. Open the design to be embroidered. Advance to the embroidery sewing screen. Embroidery Machines open a design in an editing screen. Touch the icon that moves you to the embroidery sewing screen. Advancing to the embroidery sewing screen takes you to the first stitch of the design, where you are ready to embroider! Many Brother & Babylock machines have an automatic center stitch programmed into the machine. You must advance past this “programmed center stitch” to move to the first stitch of my designs. These machines will have an additional icon you will need to touch to move you to first stitch of my design. Bernina machines with a Basting Box option must make sure the built in basting box option is turned off before they advance to the embroidery sewing screen. Then by hand, lower your needle to touch the grid. Place an arrow shaped post-it-note on the grid so the tip of the arrow touches the tip of the needle. (See picture) This marks the first stitch location of my design on the grid (not the center of the design, not the center of the hoop, but the first stitch of the opened design). Raise the needle; remove the hoop and grid from the module.

Step #2: Hooping the Fabric Place the inner hoop with the grid on the (stabilized and marked) background fabric. The arrow shaped post-it-note on the grid should be pointing to either the Needle Alignment or to the Placement Line location on the background fabric. The location is noted in the Embroidery Instructions and will be different for each hooping (it will almost never be the center of the hoop). Hoop the (stabilized and marked) fabric with the lines on the grid parallel and perpendicular to the drawn lines on the fabric. The drawn lines need not lie exactly under the lines of the grid, but must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid. This keeps the larger piece of fabric square and straight as you embroider. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. After you have connected the hoop to the module, the needle may need a little adjustment to be exactly over the Needle Alignment or Placement Line that are on the fabric. If needed, select the Move Hoop Icon & move the hoop to position the needle perfectly over the mark. The Needle Alignment is to place the needle correctly on the fabric, usually it is not to be sewn out; it is for needle placement only (unless otherwise indicated). If you accidently sew it out it will look like a crosshair, pick it out! To watch a demo of the “Perfect Placement Technique” from your computer go to: www.claudiascreationsaz.com Select the “Workshops” tab and choose Instructional Videos / Perfect Placement.

Additional Tips and Helps! Tip #1: Built in Basting Box!

A. Many embroidery machines have a built-in basting box option. When this option is enabled it may add a color stop to the stitching order of the design. This option should be disabled before opening a design. If the basting box option is on or enabled when you advance to the embroidery sewing screen, you would be marking the grid with the first stitch position for the basting box and not the first stitch of the design! Be sure to disable the basting box option before opening a design. Mark the first stitch of the design with the post-it note arrow. Hoop your fabric. Now turn on or enable the basting box option and sew the basting box out. After sewing out the built-in basting box, turn it off, if your machine doesn’t turn it off automatically. BERNINA’s have two basting box options; turn off both before marking the grid. Leaving it on will add a thread color stop and the numbering of the colors in the instructions will be off by one: The added color for the basting box. Be sure this option if off before marking the Needle Alignment.

Tip #2: Hooping Tips A. Spray temporary adhesive to the tear away stabilizer and adhere to the wrong side of

the background fabric. Hoop both layers as if they were one. The piece of stabilizer must always be cut larger than the actual hoop size. This will help keep the embroidery







stabilized and reduce puckering. For additional stabilization slide or float a second piece of stabilizer under the hoop!

B. To make hooping easier, only stabilize the area to be embroidered.

C. I place sections of permanent double sided tape (not repositionable) on the wrong side of the inner hoop.

Then I flip the inner hoop right side up and place the inner hoop, with the grid inside of it, on the fabric. The doubled sided tape holds the inner hoop to the fabric. This makes it easier to pick up the inner hoop and fabric and place it in the outer hoop with ease. (Always loosen the outer hoop screws as much as possible).

D. You may find it easier to hoop the fabric if you remove the stabilizer from the last hooping because that will reduce the stabilizer “bulk”.

E. Roll the excess fabric in a tube shape and use clips to hold the excess fabric out of the way. This will prevent the fabric from accidently falling under the hoop.

F. As you place the hoop on the fabric remember the drawn lines on the fabric need not lie exactly under the lines of the grid, but must be parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid.

Tip #3: Unusual Embroidery Instructions (not so common in other patterns): A. Needle Alignment: This is placed first in the stitching order. It is strictly for needle placement and not to be

sewn out (unless indicated). If it is accidently sewn out it will look like a crosshair. Pick it out! B. Placement Line: This is usually a line that is to be sewn out without thread. It is an alignment tool for

connecting one hooping to another. C. The blank line after the thread color: Thread Purple #__________ (Write your thread Color # on the line)

It will help you remember what color you used when you return to embroidering. Tip #4: Ironing/Pressing

A. Place the embroidered background fabric wrong side up, over a cotton towel to iron. Ironing on the right side of embroidery will crush the embroidery stitches! Padding the stitches with a folded cotton towel wont’ crush them. I usually spay with starch and then press the fabric.

Tip #5: Trimming the Blocks A. For best accuracy, use a square ruler to trim all the blocks. Place the square ruler on the block lining up two

sides, then trim. Trimming with a 6” x 24” ruler is not as accurate and leads to slips and miss-cuts. If you have difficulty keeping a ruler from moving when you cut, place double sided tape on the side that goes against the fabric! Also, using quilting gloves helps to hold it in place!

Fabric Preparation Removing Dye:

Usually I do not wash my fabrics before embroidering or piecing them into a quilt. However, if I am using reds or greens I may want to test a piece to see if it is color fast. If it is not, you may want to treat the fabric with a product that will remove the excess dye. Quilt products such as Retayne and Synthrapol always work great.

Sizing or Starching the Fabric:

This process will pre-shrink your fabric and leave it with body making it perfect for cutting, piecing and embroidering. Spray starch over the fabric. Hold a hot iron on the fabric until the moisture dries. Don’t burn your fabric but hold it on long enough for it to dry. I always starch my fabric before embroidering on it.

Woven Interfacing:

First steam iron and starch the fabric. Then place the woven interfacing (Shape Flex 101 by Pellon) adhesive side down, on the wrong side of the fabric. Spray with water. Use your hands to smooth out the moistened Shape Flex over the fabric before using the steam iron. Set the steam iron on the center area of the Shape Flex and hold the iron long enough to dry & seal the two layers together, but not so long that it burns! Pick up the iron and place it close to the first spot. Repeat until all the interfacing is sealed to the fabric. This will “pre-shrink” both fabric and interfacing. The Shape Flex will shrink, that is expected. All the edges of the Shape Flex should be sealed to the fabric. If “air bubbles” are showing on the fabric, you need to spray with water and press again.






Over the River

Embroidery Instructions for 6” x 12” Hoops

(Before beginning embroidery please check my website for updates)

All designs use Claudia’s Perfect Placement Technique to mark the grid with an arrow before hooping. To watch a

demo of this method go to: www.claudiascreationsaz.com select the Workshop tab and click Instructional Videos.

Read all of Tips for Succesful Embroidery before beginning

especially Steps #1 & #2.

Cut Background Fabric 44” x 18” (wxh) See Cutting and Fabric Preparation Instructions. Mark two more vertical lines 8” on either side of center. Mark two more horizontal lines 4” on either side of center. (Not shown in picture) Select the folder with the format your machine reads. Select 6x12 Hoops folder

Hooping #1 Bottom of House

Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open #1 Bottom of House

Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1st stitch of the design.

Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip of the arrow

touching the needle. (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of “Tips for Successful Embroidery”. Pay special attention to the

information about Brother, Babylock, & Pfaff machines.)

To hoop this design the fabric is positioned with the top of the block on the right.

Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the crosshair 8” to the left

of center on the fabric. See Example #1. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and

perpendicular to the lines on the grid.

Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module.

Slide or “float” a piece of light weight tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop.

Color #1 Needle Alignment. The needle is over the crosshair 8” to the left of center on the fabric. Reposition, if

needed to be over the center of the drawn crosshair 8” to the left of center. Do not sew Color #1. (Needle

alignment only) Advance to Color #2. Thread Color Tan #__________ (write your thread color here) Color #2 Embroider the shading.

Thread Color Black # __________

Color #3 Embroider the design.

Remove the hoop from the module and the fabric from the hoop.

Gently remove the tear away stabilizer from the back.







Hooping #2 Top of House

Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module.

Open #2 Top of House

Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen

to go to the 1st stitch of the design.

Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped

post it note on the grid with the tip of

the arrow touching the needle.

(Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of “Tips for Successful Embroidery”)

To hoop this design the fabric is positioned with the top of the block on the right.

Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the top end of

the house. See green arrow in Example #2.



Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the top end of the house.

See green arrow in Example #2. Reposition, if needed. Sew Color #1

without thread. It sews over the outline of the house to the end arrow.

Re-thread. Advance to Color #2.

Thread Color Tan #__________ Color #2 Embroider the shading.



Remove the hoop from the module

and the fabric from the hoop.

Gently remove the stabilizer.






Hooping #3 Snowlines


Open #3 Snowlines







To hoop this design the fabric is positioned with the top of the block at the top.

Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the left side

top end of the chimney. See green start arrow in Example #3. Remove the grid from

the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or “float” a piece of light weight tear

away stabilizer under the attached hoop.

Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the top end of the

chimney. See green arrow in Example #3. Reposition, if needed.

Sew Color #1 without thread. It sews over the outline of the roof and

house from the start to the end arrow. Re-thread.

Advance to Color #2.












Hooping #4 Tree & Snowflakes


Open #4 Tree & Snowflakes







To hoop this design the fabric is positioned with

the top of the block at the top.

Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid

pointing to the left side top end of the chimney. See green

start arrow in Example #4. Remove the grid from the hoop and

attach the hoop to the module. Slide or “float” a piece of light

weight tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop.

Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the

top end of the single line. See green arrow in

Example #4. Reposition, if needed. Sew Color

#1 without thread. It sews over the outline of the

single line from the start to the end arrow.

Re-thread.












Hooping #5 Top Half of River


Open #5 Top Half of River




post it note on the grid with the tip of the arrow touching the needle.



the top of the block at the bottom.

(The fabric is Upside down)

Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid

pointing to the end of the single line.

(Same placement as in Hooping #4 only upside down).

See green start arrow in Example #5. Remove the grid from the

hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or “float” a piece of

light weight tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop.


top end of the single line. See green arrow in

Example #5. Reposition, if needed. Sew Color #1

without thread. It sews over the outline of the

single line from the start to the end arrow.

Re-thread.













Hooping #6 Bottom Half of River


Open #6 Bottom Half of River







To hoop this design the fabric is rotated with the top of the block on the right.

Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the end of the single line. See green start arrow

in Example #6. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module.

Slide or “float” a piece of light weight tear away stabilizer under the

attached hoop.

Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the top

end of the single line. See green arrow in Example

#6. Reposition, if needed. Sew Color #1 without

thread. It sews over the outline of the single line from

the start to the end arrow.

Re-thread.













Hooping #7 Barn


Open #7 Barn





the arrow touching the needle. (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of “Tips for Successful Embroidery”)


Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to

the end of the single line. See green start arrow in Example #7.



attached hoop.

Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the top end

of the single line. See green arrow in Example #7.

Reposition, if needed. Sew Color #1 without thread. It

sews over the outline of the single line from the start to

the end arrow.

Re-thread.













Hooping #8 Sleigh


Open #8 Sleigh







Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the end of the tree trunk. See green start arrow in

Example #8. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module.


Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned

at the end of the tree trunk. See green

arrow in Example #8. Reposition, if

needed. Sew Color #1 without thread. It

sews over the outline of the single line from

the start to the end arrow.

Re-thread.













Hooping #9 Silo & Deer


Open #9 Silo & Deer







Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the

end of the snow line. See green start arrow in Example #9. Remove the

grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module.


attached hoop.

Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the end of

the snow . See green arrow in Example #9. Reposition, if

needed. Sew Color #1 without thread. It sews over the

outline of the single line from the start to the end arrow.

Re-thread.













Hooping #10


Open #10 Bridge







Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the end of the tree trunk. See green start arrow in

Example #10. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module.


Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is

positioned at the end of the tree trunk.

See green arrow in Example #10.

Reposition, if needed. Sew Color #1

without thread. It sews over the outline

from the start to the end arrow.

Re-thread.













Hooping #11 Snowflakes


Open #11 Snowflakes







the top of the block at the top.

Hoop the Polymesh and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing

to the end of the tree trunk. See green start arrow in Example

#10. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the

module.


attached hoop.


end of the tree trunk. See green arrow in Example

#10. Reposition, if needed. Sew Color #1 without

thread. It sews over the outline from the start to the

end arrow.

Re-thread.













Quarter Inch Borders!!

Border the Block without adding any size difference

Use a Quarter Inch Presser Foot.

Step #1:

Cut (4) Border Strips

1” wide x Length needed.

Place the Border Strip (right sides together) on

the background fabric aligning the raw edges.

Sew a ½” seam allowance

(The seam allowance is centered in the strip).

Use the ½” mark on the stitch plate to sew a

straight line down the center of the strip.

Step #2:

Flip and finger press the raw edge of the border

strip to the outer edge of the background fabric.

Starch and Press: The Border Strip measures ½”.

The Background fabric is the same size as before the border was

added.

Repeat with the opposite side and then the top and bottom.

The block has been bordered but the size of the block has not changed.

Step #3:

Place the next Border (right sides together)

over/covering the first border strip aligning the raw

edges. This is normal piecing. Pin to secure in place.

Flip the fabric upside down to expose the other side!

Not normal!!

Sew from this side!

This side shows the stitch line from the 1st border.

Align the left side of the Quarter Inch Foot to the

stitch line of the first border. Sew the seam, keeping

the left side of the pressure foot just touching the

stitch line of the first border. Do not even look at the

right side of the pressure foot or the needle. Aligning

the left side of the pressure foot with the stitch line

from the 1st border will always keep the needle

placed ¼” from the stitched line giving you a perfect ¼” Border.

0

0

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Piecing Instructions

Remove all the markings, basting box stitches, and stabilizers from the Background Fabric.

Starch and press the fabric. All seams are sewn with a scant ¼” unless indicated differently.

Trim the embroidered and starched background fabric to 33 ½” x 9 ½” (width by height).

Optional: Trim the block to the size you want.

Inner Border Fabric: (Optional)

Cut (3) 1” x Width of Fabric strips

Cross cut (2) 1” x 33 ½”

Cross cut (2) 1” x 9 ½”

Use an ½” seam allowance.

Sew (with right sides together) the shorter strips to the

short ends of the embroidered background.

Press & starch the strips so both raw edges are facing the outer edge.

This Border Technique will add a border to any Background without adding

any length or width to the original background size.

Sew the longer strips to the longer sides of the embroidered background. Press & starch the strips so both raw edges are facing the outer edge. The embroidered background piece is still the same size: 33 ½” x 9 ½”

Checkerboard Fabric: Cut (2) 2 ½” x Width of Fabric strips of the Black Fabric

Cut (2) 2 ½” x Width of Fabric strips of the White Background Fabric

Piece one black and one white strip together

Press the seams to the black fabric.

Cross cut each strip into 2 ½” strips sections.

Cut (4) 7” long pieces of one checkerboard fabric (2 ½” x 7”) Sew to the corners as needed and trim to the correct size.






Embroidered word borders

Word Border Fabric:

Cut (2) 5” x Width of Fabric strips. Press and starch

Apply Shape Flex to the back of the strips. Mark a center crosshair the full length and width of the fabric strip.

Cut a piece of tear away stabilizer 6” longer than the fabric strip and 2” wider than the hoop you will be using.

Spray the stabilizer with temporary adhesive and center the fabric strip on the stabilizer.

Top Border: Over the River and through the Woods

Hooping #1 and through the

Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open the Embroidered Word folder / select #1 Top Row

Open Design #1 and through the

Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to the 1st stitch of the design.

Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note on the grid with the tip of


To hoop this design the fabric is rotated

with the top of the strip on the right. See Example #1.

Hoop the stabilizer and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to

the center of the crosshair. The excess fabric will be above the

hoop. You will be embroidering from the center downward.

See start arrow in Example #1. The drawn lines on the fabric must be

parallel and perpendicular to the lines on the grid. Remove the grid

from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or “float” a

piece of light weight tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop.

Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned over the

center crosshair on the fabric. See green start arrow in Example #1. Reposition, if

needed. Do not sew Color #1 it is needle positioning only.

Advance to Color #2. Thread Color #__________ Color #2 Embroider the words.








Hooping #2 Woods

Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open Design #2 Woods

Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go

to the 1st stitch of the design.

Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it

note on the grid with the tip of



with the top of the strip on the right.

Hoop the stabilizer and fabric with the arrow on the grid

pointing to the center bottom of the letter e in the word “the”.

See start arrow in Example #2. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel

and perpendicular to the lines on the grid. Remove the grid from the hoop and

attach the hoop to the module. Slide or “float” a piece of light weight tear away

stabilizer under the attached hoop.

Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the center bottom

of the letter “e” in the word “the”. See green start arrow in

Example #2.

Reposition, if needed. Do not sew Color #1 it is needle

positioning only. Advance to Color #2.

Thread Color #__________ Color #2 Embroider the words.

Remove the hoop from the module and the fabric from the hoop.






Hooping #3 Over the River

Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open Design #3 Over the River

Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to

the 1st stitch of the design.


note on the grid with the tip of



To hoop this design the fabric is

rotated with the top of the strip on the right.

Mark a horizontal line on the fabric strip 3” above the embroidery.

Hoop the stabilizer and fabric with the arrow on the grid

pointing to the center line 3” above the top of the embroidered

design. Not the center crosshair but 3” above the embroidery on the

center line. See start arrow in Example #3.

The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and perpendicular to the

lines on the grid. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to

the module. Slide or “float” a piece of light weight tear away stabilizer

under the attached hoop.

Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned 3” above

the embroidered design on the center vertical line.

See green start arrow in Example #3. Reposition, if

needed. Do not sew Color #1 it is needle

positioning only. Advance to Color #2.









Bottom Border: to Grandmother’s house we go!

Hooping #1 to Grandmother’s Attach the hoop and the grid (no fabric) to the module. Open the Embroidered Word folder /select #2 Bottom Row

Open Design #1 to Grandmother’s

Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go to

the 1st stitch of the design.


note on the grid with the tip of the arrow touching the needle. (Refer to Steps #1 & #2 of “Tips for Successful Embroidery”)



Hoop the stabilizer and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the center of the crosshair.

The excess fabric will be below the hoop. You will be embroidering from the center upward.

See start arrow in Example #1. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and perpendicular to

the lines on the grid. Remove the grid from the hoop and attach the hoop to the module. Slide or

“float” a piece of light weight tear away stabilizer under the attached hoop.

Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned over the center crosshair on the fabric.

See green start arrow in Example #1. Reposition, if needed. Do not sew Color #1

it is needle positioning only.










Hooping #2 house we go!

Open Design #2 house we go!

Step #1 Advance to the embroidery sewing screen to go

to the 1st stitch of the design.

Step #2 Lower the needle and lay an arrow shaped post it note

on the grid with the tip of




Hoop the stabilizer and fabric with the arrow on the grid pointing to the

center bottom of the letter “s” in the word Grandmother’s. See start

arrow in Example #2. The drawn lines on the fabric must be parallel and

perpendicular to the lines on the grid. Remove the grid from the hoop and

attach the hoop to the module. Slide or “float” a piece of light weight tear a

way stabilizer under the attached hoop.

Color #1 Placement Line. The needle is positioned at the center bottom of

the letter “s” in the word grandmother’s.

. See green start arrow in Example #2. Reposition, if needed.

Do not sew Color #1 it is needle positioning only.










Piecing the Embroidered word borders

Center the words and trim the word border strips to 3 ½” x width of the fabric.

Center the top word border strip, Over the River and through the Woods, on the top of the pieced quilt. Do not cut the long

width until after you sew it to the top. Pin frequently and sew to the top.

Repeat with the bottom border, center the words, to Grandmother’s house we go!, pin frequently. Sew to the bottom of the

quilt top.

Cut (1) more border strip 3 ½” x width of fabric

Sub cut in half to have (2) 3 ½” x 22”

Center and sew one to each side of the quilt top.

Trim to square the corners.

Quilt and bind.


through the woods - amazon web services · you may find it easier to hoop the fabric if you remove...

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