zipper-back lined coin purse (in-the-hoop) · 2019-10-15 · zipper is against the stabilizer, and...

Zipper-Back Lined Coin Purse (In-the-Hoop)

file:///fileserver/Files/Source/ELProjects/html/PR2236.html[10/15/2019 2:57:03 PM]


Hold change and other tiny treasures with this unique in-the-hoop embroidery design! Delicateembroidered decoration, a contrasting lining, and a zipper across the back make this coin purse perfectlypolished. Follow along with the instructions below to create your own!

Project Needs & Notes:

- 1/2 yard quilter's cotton or linen (for outer fabric)- 1/2 yard of quilter's cotton (for lining)- 1/8 yard thin fabric (for strap and wristlet)- 1/2" swivel clasp- All purpose zipper (6"+ for small size, 8"+ for large size)- Temporary spray adhesive (such as Gunold KK100)- Embroidery thread- Scissors- Masking tape or painter's tape- Soft, fibrous water-soluble stabilizer (such as Vilene)- Seam ripper- Quilting ruler- Iron- Pressing cloth- Ironing board- Hand sewing needle or fabric glue

Designs featured in this tutorial include: - X14910, Delicate Wildflower Lined Coin Purse (In-the-Hoop)

Special note: Because the last color stop of file "b" sews the "a" and "b" pieces together, make sure tocompletely embroider file "a" before embroidering file "b".

http://www.emblibrary.com/EL/elprojects/pdf/PR2236.pdf

http://www.emblibrary.com/EL/Browse.aspx?Catalog=Emblibrary&Mode=1&Ref=X14910

http://www.emblibrary.com/EL/Browse.aspx?Catalog=Emblibrary&Mode=1&Ref=X14910



To make a hardware strap for thecoin purse, cut a strip out of theouter fabric or the lining fabric.

The strip should be cut to 1 3/4"wide x 7" long. Using a quiltingruler and a rotary cuter is theeasiest way to cut out thesepieces.

Take the fabric strip, and fold thetwo long sides over 3/8" withwrong sides together. Press thefolded edge with a pressing cloth.

Then fold the strip in half bymatching up the two long foldededges.

Press the fold, and then either pinor use temporary spray adhesiveto hold the fold in place forsewing.



As the stitching will been seenfrom both sides, wind a bobbinwith the same thread you areusing in the top needle.

Sew an 1/8" seam along bothlong sides. You do not need tosew along the two short ends. Itshould both be 1/2" wide whencompleted.

Slide a 1/2" swivel clasp, keyring, or other hardware of yourchoice on to the strap. Center it,and fold the strap so that the flatside of the hardware is on theinside of the fold.



Pin the fold or use temporaryadhesive to hold it while sewing.

Using a matching bobbin, sew asmall seam as close to thehardware and folded end aspossible. Make sure your needledoes not hit the hardware as itwill break the needle.

This completes the strap. Set itaside for now. The strap will beadded during the second portionof the embroidery design.

When you download the in-the-hoop coin purse design, you willfind multiple files. Some are theembroidery files, and the othersare dieline files marked with theletters "DL". Dielines are used tocut the fabric to the correct shapeand size.

Open and print each dieline fileusing an embroidery software. Ifyou do not have an embroiderysoftware, Wilcom TrueSizer is afree program to use.

https://www.wilcom.com/Products/TrueSizerProducts.aspx



Spray the back side of the frontpaper dieline (file "b") withtemporary adhesive. Smooth itonto the right side of the outerfabric.

Cut out the first piece, andremove the paper dieline.

Repeat to cut the lining, frontdieline shape (labeled with a "b"and "front") out of the liningfabric.



Then take the two remainingback dieline shapes (labeled withan "a", "back", and either "top" or"bottom"), and cut the twoshapes out of both the lining andthe outer fabrics.

Take one of the "a", backshapes, and fold one long sideover 1/2". Press it along thefolded edge.

Repeat to press one long edgeover 1/2" on each of the fourback, top and bottom, dielinepieces.



There are different kinds ofwater-soluble stabilizer. For bestresults, use a soft and fibrouswater soluble stabilizer, likeVilene. Using a stabilizer like thiswill make the zipper purse lessbulky and easier to turn. Theclear and plastic water solublestabilizer will not work well.

Use a size 11 or 75/11 sharpsewing needle. A sharp sewingneedle has a smaller, finer pointthan an embroidery needle. Thatmeans it will make smaller holesin the stabilizer.

Hoop a piece of water-solublestabilizer tightly, making surethere are no wrinkles and thestabilizer is taut in the hoop.

Load the back embroidery file(file "a") onto the machine, andbegin to embroider the design.

The first thing to sew will be the"zipper dieline". This marks theplace where the zipper will beplaced on the stabilizer.



The zipper dieline sews a boxwith a centerline through themiddle. To place the zippercorrectly, close the zipper, andmatch up the center of the zipper(the teeth that zip and unzip) withthe sewn centerline.

Make sure the wrong side of thezipper is against the stabilizer,and tape it in place. The zippershould hang over the hoop onboth sides, and will be trimmedaway later.

Once the zipper is taped down,place the hoop back on themachine, and embroider the"zipper tackdown" step. This willstitch the zipper to the stabilizer,and hold it in place for theremainder of the design.

Don't worry if it sews over thetape, it can be easily torn awayfrom around the stitches.Remove the tape beforecontinuing to embroider.

Remove the tape, and embroiderthe "top back piece dieline" step.This will sew out an outline wherethe top front fabric piece will go.



Spray the back side of the folded,top front "a" outer fabric piecewith temporary adhesive.

With the folded edge againstzipper, smooth the fabric pieceinside the sewn dieline shape.

Then continue to embroider the"top back piece tackdown" step.

The "bottom back piece dieline"will embroider next, showingwhere to place the next fabricpiece.



After the "bottom back piecedieline" has sewn out, place thefabric piece with the folded edgealong the zipper, and embroiderthe tackdown.

Again make sure the folded edgeis against the zipper. Thenembroider the "bottom back piecetackdown" to sew the fabric piecein place.

Before sewing the "top liningtackdown", stop the machine,and remove the hoop withoutunhooping the design.

Lay it on the table with the backside of the hoop facing up. Takethe top back "a" lining piece, andspray the wrong side withtemporary adhesive. Smooth it inplace directly behind the top back"a" outer piece on the back of thehoop. Make sure the folded edgeis against the zipper.

As the stitching will now be seenfrom both sides of the design,wind a bobbin with threadmatching the color of the liningfabric. The top thread should stillmatch the outer fabric color.



Place the hoop back onto themachine, and embroider the "toplining tackdown" step. This willsew over the existing sewntackdown on the front side of thedesign while also tacking downthe added lining fabric.

Then repeat to spray and placethe bottom, back "a" lining fabricon the back side of the hoop.Again make sure the folded edgeof the fabric is against the zipper.

Still using the matching bobbin,place the hoop back on themachine, and embroider the"bottom lining tackdown". Thiswill sew over the existing sewntackdown on the front side of thedesign while also tacking downthe added lining fabric.



Once the embroidery is finishedsewing, trim or tear away theexcess stabilizer from around theback piece. Do not cut the zipper.

Once the back (file "a") iscompleted, hoop another piece oftear-away stabilizer, and load thefront (file "b") onto the machine.

The first thing to sew will be the"front piece dieline". This marksthe area on the stabilizer wherethe fabric piece will be placed.

Remove the hoop from themachine, but do not unhoop thestabilizer.

Spray the back side of the "b"front fabric piece with temporaryadhesive, and smooth it in placeright inside the sewn dieline.



Reattach the hoop on themachine, and continueembroidering the design.

The "front piece tackdown" stitchwill sew next. This binds thefabric piece to the stabilizer forthe remainder of the design.

Then follow the color changesheet, and embroider all the innerdetails of the design. Stop beforesewing the "front finishing seam".

Before sewing the "front finishingseam" step, stop the machineand remove the hoop withoutunhooping the design.



It is now time to add thepreviously made hardware strap.

Position it as desired so the rawedge is hanging over the outsideof the fabric pieces.

It is very important to make surethe hardware is far enough awayfrom the outer edge of the fabricthat it will not get sewn over. Ifthe hardware does get sewn overby the stitching, it will break yourneedle, so be sure to place itcorrectly. Tape it in place.

Take the sewn back piece (file"a"), and open the zipper halfway, so it its sitting in the centerof the fabric square.

It is very important to move theslider (also called the pull tab) ofthe zipper to the center of thefabric pieces. This will allow thezipper slider to be on the finishedpurse. If you do not move it, thezipper will be unusable, so do notforget!

Lay the sewn back piece (file "a")on top of the hooped front piece(file "b") with right sides together.

Match up the outer edges, andtape the back piece in placearound all four sides of thedesign.



Place the hoop back onto themachine, and embroider the"front finishing seam" step.

This will bind all the layerstogether, and create the finalshape of the purse.

Then remove the hoop from themachine without unhooping thedesign.

Lay the lining "b" front piece ontop of the other lining pieces withright sides together. Match up theedges, and tape it in place.

Place the hoop back onto themachine, and embroider the final"lining finishing seam" step. Thiswill sew the final shape of thepurse a second time, binding thelast lining piece to the rest of thedesign.



The "lining finishing seam" willalso leave an opening in thebottom edge of the lining forturning the purse right side out. Make sure to not just sew eitherfinishing seam step twice as thetwo finishing seams beingdifferent is very important.

Once the design has finishedembroidering, cut or tear awaythe excess stabilizer from aroundthe design.

Then trim away the seamallowance as well as the extrazipper length.

Trimming the fabric away fromthe corners and curves will helpthe purse keep its shape withoutwrinkling once turned right sideout.



Turn the zipper purse right sideout through the opening in thelining, so the right side of thelining fabric is facing out.

Then use fabric glue or a handsewing needle and thread toclose the opening in the bottomedge of the lining.

Cut open the stabilizer hiding thezipper using a scissor or seamripper. Make sure not to cut theactual zipper or fabric.



Turn the purse right side out.

If desired, you can remove thewater soluble stabilizer inside ofthe purse to make it less bulky.To do this, follow themanufacturer's instructions thatcome with the stabilizer. ForVilene, we soaked the pursesovernight (12+ hours), and thenscrubbed the purse gently underrunning water to remove thestabilizer completely so that nostiffness remained.

Allow the purse to air dry, andthen press it with a pressing clothand an iron to get rid of wrinklesand create crisp, folded edges.

Attach your coin purse ontoanother bag or set of keys to holdcoins, lip balm, or other smallitems.



Discover lots of machineembroidery ideas and inspirationon the Embroidery LibraryPinterest page.

Pin it yourself using the "Pin It"button on this page.

Questions or comments? Let us know! Send an email to us; the address is [email protected].

https://www.pinterest.com/emblibrary/

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zipper-back lined coin purse (in-the-hoop) · 2019-10-15 · zipper is against the stabilizer, and...

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