Top Managed Belay

Two-Point AnchorLowering System

John MarshallAdv Rock Climbing Leadership

Mr. Ryan CampbellApril 03, 2010

Needed Equipment

• One full length dynamic climbing rope, min. 60m

• One length of static cord or rope, min. 8mm

• One length of nylon webbing

• Four locking-type carabineers

Two-Point Anchor

• Upon arriving to the site, assess the desired climbing route

• Are there suitable natural anchors available?• Will you need to place protection gear to

establish anchor points?• Is the route perpendicular to your anchors so

as not to cause excessive friction to your rope, or can you create a perpendicular masterpoint from your anchors?

L.E.A.D.S.T.E.R.Use the principles of LEADSTER to build your anchor and asses your anchor site:

L – Limited E – Extension

Limited Extension refers to limiting the length of slack if an anchor should fail or direction of pull change.A – Angle

Angle refers to the angle between legs of anchors, no > 60°.D – Direction

Direction refers to the anchor taking force in the direction of a fall.

S – SolidSolid means that the anchor will not fall out or pull away easily.

T – TimelyTimely, you should be able to setup with minimum time spent.

E – EqualizedAll anchor points will equally take the forces in case of a fall.

R – RedundantShould one point or piece fail, the whole anchor will not fail.

Primary Anchor Point

From the desired route you locate a large tree directly behind the cliff edge.

You observe that it has a large diameter, is still living and is rooted well into the soil/bedrock.

Primary Tie-In

Using the length of static rope or cord, tie into the tree using a single or double wrap around the circumference of the tree.

Complete the tie-in using a bowline knot with a double fisherman’s backup.

Extend the cord to the belay station.

Bowline Knot Tie-In

View from the TreeThe cord is extended from the tree towards the cliff edge or desired climbing route; here the “cliff edge” lies just beyond the climbers in the dirt area.

Secondary Anchor PointTo the right of the chosen climbing route you observe a protruding horn of rock. Upon observation you determine that it is thick, solid and connected to the bedrock.

Secondary Tie-InUsing the length of nylon webbing, tie a water knot in the webbing.

Double wrap the webbing around the horn of rock with the water knot in the back and under the lip.

Extend the runner in the direction of pull towards the master point.

Clip in a locking carabineer and tie a figure-8 on a bight to create a redundant anchor point.

Secondary Tie-In

Water Knot in Webbing Figure-8 on a Bight with Carabineer clip-in

Tertiary Tie-InNow, clip in the Primary cord to the Secondary anchor using a clove hitch or if you have a limited amount of cord a figure-8 on a bight, and lock the screw-gate on the carabineer to prevent the hitch from rolling over the gate and possibly coming free.

Pull the Primary cord towards the direction of pull, double the bight back on itself; creating a double loop. Tie a figure-8 on a bight at the Masterpoint.

Figure-8 on a Bight at the Masterpoint

Climbers Belay and Tie-In

Clip-in the load strand for the Climber’sbelay with a munter hitch.

The Climber ties in with a retracedfigure-8 directly on the harness, through the belay loop and leg loop.

Belayer’s Tie-In and Safety Line

Tie a figure-8 on a bight on the standingend and clip into the masterpoint.

Tie-in on the Belayer’s harness belay loopwith a carabineer and clove hitch using thestanding end, adjust to reach the cliff edge.

“Flake” the rope, from standing end to load end, this allows you to inspect the full length of rope and stack it for ease of feeding to the climber, also managing your “desktop” work area of your belay station.

CLIMB ON!!