tortillas from the homesick texan

7/28/2019 Tortillas From the Homesick Texan

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CORN TORTILLAS

12 TORTILLAS

rn tortillas are the workhorses of Tex-Mex cooking. Without them you wouldn’t have enchilad

alupas, tacos, or tortilla chips. Of course, finding fresh corn tortillas in Texas is not a problem

e found that in many places outside Texas the corn tortillas on offer have the texture and flavor

per.

I make my corn tortillas at home with masa harina and a tortilla press that’s been in my fami

ce I was a little girl. Once you get the hang of it, making corn tortillas takes little time. And he

yone who has had a fresh corn tortilla hot off the skillet will agree—there’s no comparison to t

chine-pressed ones you buy at the store. They’re so different in texture and taste, you almost

nder how the two are related.

ups masa harina

¼ cups warm water nch of salt

Mix the masa harina, warm water, and salt until a dough is formed. Knead the dough for a minu

til smooth. Divide into 12 equal-size balls and cover with a damp cloth.

On medium-high, heat a dry skillet, preferably cast-iron, until very hot, which you can test by

cking a bit of water into the pan. If it dances and sizzles, it’s ready.

Cut two pieces of parchment paper that cover the width of a tortilla press. Place a piece of the

rchment paper on the press, put a ball of dough on it, and then lay the other piece of parchment

per on top. Press out the tortilla. Take the tortilla, which is now wrapped in parchment paper,

press, gently peel off the two pieces of paper, and place the tortilla into the hot skillet.

Cook for 30 seconds on one side, flip it, and then cook for 1 minute on the other side. It should

puff a bit. Flip it again and cook for 30 more seconds. Place cooked tortillas in a basket lined

th or in a tortilla warmer. Repeat process for remaining balls of dough. Can be stored in the

rigerator for a week. They can also be frozen for 6 months.

TE: If you don’t have a tortilla press, you can pat the balls into flat discs or roll them out with a

u can also place the balls (with the parchment paper) between two very heavy books and pres

m out that way.

VARIATION



HOMINY TORTILLAS

you’re looking for a more robust corn flavor, try adding hominy to your corn tortilla dough.

up canned hominy, drained

up masa harina

½ cups water

nch of salt

In a blender or food processor, grind the hominy until it’s a paste. Mix it with the masa harina,

rm water, and salt until a dough is formed.

Divide into 12 balls and proceed with the regular corn tortilla recipe.



HOUSTON-STYLE FLOUR TORTILLAS

8 TORTILLAS

u can always tell where you are in Texas by the type of flour tortilla. While it may be a bit

mplistic to divide the state into two flour-tortilla camps, in my experience that’s what I’ve seen

is recipe is for the Houston-style tortilla, which is soft and pliant. These tortillas are a bit swe

d flaky, which makes them excellent for eating warm off the comal (a Mexican cast-iron griddladornment necessary.

A simple combination of lard, water, and flour is what gives these tortillas their signature

ture and taste. You can definitely substitute shortening if you like, but they won’t taste as good

The key to flour tortillas is patience. The glutens in the dough will need time to relax, so do

p the dough-resting step.

These tortillas pair well with Carnitas, Tacos al Carbon, Small-Apartment Style, and other

asted or grilled meats. They’re wonderful rolled and dipped into a bowl of Houston-Style Gre

lsa, as well.

cup lard or shortening

up water

ups all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading

easpoon kosher salt

Place the lard or shortening and water into a pot on medium heat and cook until it has melted.

In a bowl, stir together the flour and salt. Pour in the melted lard or shortening and water and stil a loose ball is formed. Place dough on a floured surface and knead for 2 minutes until dough

pple and smooth. Cover the dough and let it rest for 1 hour.

After an hour, divide the dough into 8 pieces. Cover again and let it rest for 30 minutes. After

ugh has rested, place each dough ball one at a time on a floured surface, pat it out into a 4-inch

cle, and then roll with a palote or a rolling pin from the center until it’s thin, about 8 inches in

meter. Don’t overwork the dough, or it will be stiff. Keep rolled-out tortillas covered until re

cook.

In a dry cast-iron skillet heated on high, cook each tortilla for 30 seconds on one side, flip it, a

n cook for 1 minute on the other side. It should start to puff a bit. Flip it again and cook for 30

conds. Place cooked tortillas in a basket lined with cloth or a tortilla warmer. Repeat process

maining balls of dough.



SAN ANTONIO–STYLE FLOUR TORTILLAS

8 TORTILLAS

Corpus Christi, San Antonio, and Dallas, the flour tortillas tend to be puffier and thicker than t

uston and border brethren. This is your true Tex-Mex tortilla, as you won’t find it in Mexico.

kewise, when companies aim to reproduce a flour tortilla, this is the model they use.

Of course, if you’ve had only a flour tortilla from a plastic bag, you’ve never had a good flo

tilla. This style of tortilla is good if you’re adverse to lard, and while it’s different from the

uston-style tortilla, it’s just as delicious.

I had spent many years trying to find a recipe for a puffy flour tortilla, but it wasn’t until I m

ipe found in The Border Cookbook by Cheryl Alters Jamison and Bill Jamison that I achieved

ffy-tortilla bliss. I’ve adapted their recipe here, adding a little butter for flavor and toning dow

king powder. If you’re looking for a flour tortilla that’s lower in fat, this is your recipe. Not to

ntion that it’s so soft and flavorful, you won’t even miss the extra calories.

ablespoons unsalted butter

cup milk

ablespoon vegetable oil

ups all-purpose flour, plus more for kneading

easpoon baking powder

teaspoon kosher salt

Place the butter and milk into a pot and on medium-low heat cook until butter has melted. Turn

heat and stir in the vegetable oil.

In a bowl, stir together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Pour in the melted butter, milk, and

d stir until a loose, sticky ball is formed. Place dough on a floured surface and knead for 2 min

til dough is firm and smooth. Stir until well combined. Cover the dough and let it rest for 1 hou



After an hour, divide the dough into 8 pieces. Cover again and let it rest for 30 minutes. After

ugh has rested, place each dough ball one at a time on a floured surface, pat it out into a 4-inch

cle, and then roll with a palote or a rolling pin from the center until it’s thin, about 8 inches in

meter. Don’t overwork the dough, or it will be stiff. Keep rolled-out tortillas covered until re

cook.

In a dry cast-iron skillet heated on high, cook each tortilla for 30 seconds on one side, flip it, a

n cook for 1 minute on the other side. It should start to puff a bit. Flip it again and cook for 30

conds. Place cooked tortillas in a basket lined with cloth or in a tortilla warmer. Repeat proce

remaining balls of dough.

tortillas from the homesick texan

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