4. Climb aboard Istanbul’s ferriesSpanned by two mammoth bridges, andwith a third on the drawing board, theBosphorus is traversed on a daily basis bythousands of cars, ferries, fishing boatsand launches. Travelling in the famouspublic excursion ferry alongside massivetankers and cargo ships making their wayfrom the Sea of Marmara to the Black Seacertainly makes a memorable day trip.Climb aboard a ferry at sunset, when thegrandiose silhouette of the Old City isthrown into relief against an orange-redor dusky pink sky.

5. Feast and gallery hop on IstiklalCaddesiIstiklal Caddesi (Independence Ave) is aperfect metaphor for 21st-century Turkey.At one extremity is frantically busy TaksimSquare, the symbolic heart of modern?stanbul. At the other extremity is Galata,home to meandering cobblestone lanesthat have seen the comings and goings ofumpteen imperial powers. This part oftown retains a slightly louche and laid-back flavor, beckoning the traveler withits unexpected mix of churches, mosques,shops, hotels and gay hamams (bath-houses). Istiklal is as European as anythingeast of the Champs …lysÈes.

6. Join the in-crowd at the city’s amazingart galleriesSocially inspirational Istanbullus knowthat there’s one foolproof way to build apublic profile. All they need to do is buildand endow an art gallery, preferably onededicated to modern art. We can’t explainwhy the botox-and-bling brigade hasrecently taken to culture with suchalacrity, but this is indeed the case. Thistrend is the best thing to hit the city sincethe tulip bulb arrived. First cab off the

rank was the Proje4L/Elgiz Museum ofContemporary Art in Levent, closely fol-lowed by Istanbul Modern in Tophaneand the Pera Museum in Beyo?lu. All ofthis is great news for the visitor, who cansee world-class exhibitions in drop-dead-gorgeous surrounds complete with stylishgift shops and quality cafes.

7. Listen to world-class performancesIn life, there aren’t too many opportuni-ties to hear world-class classical musicand opera performed in magnificentByzantine churches and ornate Ottomanpleasure palaces. The InternationalIstanbul Music Festival (held in June/Julyeach year) is one of them. The biggestevent on Istanbul’s cultural calendar, thisfestival has been enticing locals to its per-formances for decades and is progressive-ly building an international profile. Themain venue is the austerely beautiful Aya

?rini, which offers superb acoustics and anoverload of atmosphere.

8. Surrender to the steam in a bathhouseIn life, there aren’t too many opportuni-ties to wander semi-naked through a16th-century Ottoman monument. Unlessyou visit Istanbul, that is. The city’s world-famous hamams (Turkish baths) offer aunique opportunity to immerse yourselfin history, architecture, warm water andsoap suds - all at the same time. Many ofthe imperial mosque complexes include ahamam, and there are innumerable exam-ples of historic neighborhood baths dot-ted throughout the streets of the Old City- most, alas, now derelict or converted toshopping centers.

9. Sample the flavors of IstanbulMore than anything else, Istanbullus loveto eat. Here food is much more than mere

fuel. Instead, it’s a celebration of commu-nity. Meals unfurl with great ceremony -they are joyful, boisterous and almostinevitably communal. The national cuisinehas been refined over centuries and istreated more reverently than any museumcollection in the country. That’s not to sayit’s fussy, because what differentiatesTurkish food from other national noshes isits rustic and honest base. The meze (horsd’oeuvres) you’ll eat will be simple, thekebaps austere, the salads unstructuredand the seafood un-sauced. Flavors willexplode in your mouth because ingredi-ents are used in season. The country’s bestchefs come to Istanbul to perfect their art,and you’ll be able to order a better execut-ed Italian pasta or fiery Thai curry fromhere. There’s a mind-boggling array ofoptions so the possibilities are endless. Asthe Turks say, Afi yet olsun! (Goodappetite!) —- (www.lonelyplanet.com)

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FRIDAY, APRIL 24, 2015