travellers' stories by follen, eliza lee cabot, 1787-1860

8/14/2019 Travellers' Stories by Follen, Eliza Lee Cabot, 1787-1860

1/27

TheProjectGutenbergEtextofTravellers'Stories,byElizaLeeFollen#3inourseriesbyElizaLeeFollen

Copyrightlawsarechangingallovertheworld,besuretocheckthelawsforyourcountrybeforeredistributingthesefiles!!!

Pleasetakealookattheimportantinformationinthisheader.Weencourageyoutokeepthisfileonyourowndisk,keepinganelectronicpathopenforthenextreaders.

Pleasedonotremovethis.

Thisshouldbethefirstthingseenwhenanyoneopensthebook.Donotchangeoredititwithoutwrittenpermission.Thewordsarecarefullychosentoprovideuserswiththeinformationtheyneedaboutwhattheycanlegallydowiththetexts.

**WelcomeToTheWorldofFreePlainVanillaElectronicTexts**

**EtextsReadableByBothHumansandByComputers,Since1971**

*****TheseEtextsArePreparedByThousandsofVolunteers!*****

InformationoncontactingProjectGutenbergtogetEtexts,andfurtherinformationisincludedbelow,includingfordonations.

TheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationisa501(c)(3)organizationwithEIN[EmployeeIdentificationNumber]64-6221541

Title:Travellers'Stories

Author:ElizaLeeFollen

ReleaseDate:May,2003[Etext#4030]

[Yes,weareaboutoneyearaheadofschedule][Theactualdatethisfilefirstposted=10/14/01]

Edition:10

Language:English

TheProjectGutenbergEtextofTravellers'Stories,byElizaLeeFollen**********Thisfileshouldbenamedtrvst10.txtortrvst10.zip*********

CorrectedEDITIONSofouretextsgetanewNUMBER,trvst11.txtVERSIONSbasedonseparatesourcesgetnewLETTER,trvst10a.txt

ThisetextwasproducedbyCharlesFranksandtheOnlineDistributedProofreadingTeam.

ProjectGutenbergEtextsareusuallycreatedfrommultipleeditions,allofwhichareinthePublicDomainintheUnitedStates,unlessacopyrightnoticeisincluded.Therefore,weusuallydoNOTkeepanyofthesebooksincompliancewithanyparticularpaperedition.

Wearenowtryingtoreleaseallourbooksoneyearinadvanceoftheofficialreleasedates,leavingtimeforbetterediting.


2/27

Pleasebeencouragedtosenduserrormessagesevenyearsaftertheofficialpublicationdate.

Pleasenoteneitherthislistingnoritscontentsarefinaltilmidnightofthelastdayofthemonthofanysuchannouncement.TheofficialreleasedateofallProjectGutenbergEtextsisatMidnight,CentralTime,ofthelastdayofthestatedmonth.Apreliminaryversionmayoftenbepostedforsuggestion,commentandeditingbythosewhowishtodoso.

Mostpeoplestartatoursitesat:http://gutenberg.nethttp://promo.net/pg

ThoseofyouwhowanttodownloadanyEtextbeforeannouncementcansurftothemasfollows,andjustdownloadbydate;thisisalsoagoodwaytogettheminstantlyuponannouncement,astheindexesourcataloguersproduceobviouslytakeawhileafteranannouncementgoesoutintheProjectGutenbergNewsletter.

http://www.ibiblio.org/gutenberg/etext03orftp://ftp.ibiblio.org/pub/docs/books/gutenberg/etext03

Or/etext02,01,00,99,98,97,96,95,94,93,92,92,91or90

Justsearchbythefirstfivelettersofthefilenameyouwant,asitappearsinourNewsletters.

InformationaboutProjectGutenberg(onepage)

Weproduceabouttwomilliondollarsforeachhourwework.Thetimeittakesus,aratherconservativeestimate,isfiftyhourstogetanyetextselected,entered,proofread,edited,copyrightsearchedandanalyzed,thecopyrightletterswritten,etc.This

projectedaudienceisonehundredmillionreaders.Ifourvaluepertextisnominallyestimatedatonedollarthenweproduce$2milliondollarsperhourthisyearaswereleasefiftynewEtextfilespermonth,or500moreEtextsin2000foratotalof3000+Iftheyreachjust1-2%oftheworld'spopulationthenthetotalshouldreachover300billionEtextsgivenawaybyyear'send.

TheGoalofProjectGutenbergistoGiveAwayOneTrillionEtextFilesbyDecember31,2001.[10,000x100,000,000=1Trillion]Thisistenthousandtitleseachtoonehundredmillionreaders,whichisonlyabout4%ofthepresentnumberofcomputerusers.

Atourrevisedratesofproduction,wewillreachonlyone-third

ofthatgoalbytheendof2001,orabout4,000Etextsunlesswemanagetogetsomerealfunding.

TheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationhasbeencreatedtosecureafutureforProjectGutenbergintothenextmillennium.

Weneedyourdonationsmorethanever!

AsofJuly12,2001contributionsareonlybeingsolicitedfrompeoplein:Arkansas,Colorado,Connecticut,Delaware,Florida,Georgia,Hawaii,Idaho,


3/27

Illinois,Indiana,Iowa,Kansas,Louisiana,Maine,Massachusetts,Minnesota,Missouri,Montana,Nebraska,NewMexico,Nevada,NewJersey,NewYork,NorthCarolina,Ohio,Oklahoma,Oregon,RhodeIsland,SouthCarolina*,SouthDakota,Tennessee,Texas,Utah,Vermont,Virginia,Washington,WestVirginia,Wisconsin,andWyoming.

*InProgress

Wehavefiledinabout45statesnow,butthesearetheonlyonesthathaveresponded.

Astherequirementsforotherstatesaremet,additionstothislistwillbemadeandfundraisingwillbeginintheadditionalstates.Pleasefeelfreetoasktocheckthestatusofyourstate.

Inanswertovariousquestionswehavereceivedonthis:

Weareconstantlyworkingonfinishingthepaperworktolegallyrequestdonationsinall50states.Ifyourstateisnotlistedandyouwouldliketoknowifwehaveaddeditsincethelistyouhave,justask.

Whilewecannotsolicitdonationsfrompeoplein

stateswherewearenotyetregistered,weknowofnoprohibitionagainstacceptingdonationsfromdonorsinthesestateswhoapproachuswithanoffertodonate.

Internationaldonationsareaccepted,butwedon'tknowANYTHINGabouthowtomakethemtax-deductible,oreveniftheyCANbemadedeductible,anddon'thavethestafftohandleitevenifthereareways.

Alldonationsshouldbemadeto:

ProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationPMB1131739UniversityAve.Oxford,MS38655-4109

TheProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundationisa501(c)(3)organizationwithEIN[EmployeeIdentificationNumber]64-6221541,andhasbeenapprovedasa501(c)(3)organizationbytheUSInternalRevenueService(IRS).Donationsaretax-deductibletothemaximumextentpermittedbylaw.Astherequirementsforotherstatesaremet,

additionstothislistwillbemadeandfundraisingwillbeginintheadditionalstates.

Weneedyourdonationsmorethanever!

Youcangetuptodatedonationinformationat:

http://www.gutenberg.net/donation.html


4/27

***

Ifyoucan'treachProjectGutenberg,youcanalwaysemaildirectlyto:

MichaelS.Hart

[email protected]@prairienet.organdarchive.orgifyourmailbouncesfromarchive.org,Iwillstillseeit,ifitbouncesfromprairienet.org,betterresendlateron....

Prof.Hartwillanswerorforwardyourmessage.

Wewouldprefertosendyouinformationbyemail.

***

Examplecommand-lineFTPsession:

ftpftp.ibiblio.orglogin:anonymouspassword:your@login

cdpub/docs/books/gutenbergcdetext90throughetext99oretext00throughetext02,etc.dir[toseefiles]getormget[togetfiles...setbinforzipfiles]GETGUTINDEX.??[togetayear'slistingofbooks,e.g.,GUTINDEX.99]GETGUTINDEX.ALL[togetalistingofALLbooks]

**TheLegalSmallPrint**

(ThreePages)

***START**THESMALLPRINT!**FORPUBLICDOMAINETEXTS**START***Whyisthis"SmallPrint!"statementhere?Youknow:lawyers.Theytellusyoumightsueusifthereissomethingwrongwithyourcopyofthisetext,evenifyougotitforfreefromsomeoneotherthanus,andevenifwhat'swrongisnotourfault.So,amongotherthings,this"SmallPrint!"statementdisclaimsmostofourliabilitytoyou.Italsotellsyouhowyoumaydistributecopiesofthisetextifyouwantto.

*BEFORE!*YOUUSEORREADTHISETEXTByusingorreadinganypartofthisPROJECTGUTENBERG-tmetext,youindicatethatyouunderstand,agreetoandacceptthis"SmallPrint!"statement.Ifyoudonot,youcanreceive

arefundofthemoney(ifany)youpaidforthisetextbysendingarequestwithin30daysofreceivingittothepersonyougotitfrom.Ifyoureceivedthisetextonaphysicalmedium(suchasadisk),youmustreturnitwithyourrequest.

ABOUTPROJECTGUTENBERG-TMETEXTSThisPROJECTGUTENBERG-tmetext,likemostPROJECTGUTENBERG-tmetexts,isa"publicdomain"workdistributedbyProfessorMichaelS.HartthroughtheProjectGutenbergAssociation(the"Project").Amongotherthings,thismeansthatnooneownsaUnitedStatescopyright


5/27

onorforthiswork,sotheProject(andyou!)cancopyanddistributeitintheUnitedStateswithoutpermissionandwithoutpayingcopyrightroyalties.Specialrules,setforthbelow,applyifyouwishtocopyanddistributethisetextunderthe"PROJECTGUTENBERG"trademark.

Pleasedonotusethe"PROJECTGUTENBERG"trademarktomarketanycommercialproductswithoutpermission.

Tocreatetheseetexts,theProjectexpendsconsiderableeffortstoidentify,transcribeandproofreadpublicdomainworks.Despitetheseefforts,theProject'setextsandanymediumtheymaybeonmaycontain"Defects".Amongotherthings,Defectsmaytaketheformofincomplete,inaccurateorcorruptdata,transcriptionerrors,acopyrightorotherintellectualpropertyinfringement,adefectiveordamageddiskorotheretextmedium,acomputervirus,orcomputercodesthatdamageorcannotbereadbyyourequipment.

LIMITEDWARRANTY;DISCLAIMEROFDAMAGESButforthe"RightofReplacementorRefund"describedbelow,[1]MichaelHartandtheFoundation(andanyotherpartyyoumayreceivethisetextfromasaPROJECTGUTENBERG-tmetext)disclaimsallliabilitytoyoufordamages,costsandexpenses,including

legalfees,and[2]YOUHAVENOREMEDIESFORNEGLIGENCEORUNDERSTRICTLIABILITY,ORFORBREACHOFWARRANTYORCONTRACT,INCLUDINGBUTNOTLIMITEDTOINDIRECT,CONSEQUENTIAL,PUNITIVEORINCIDENTALDAMAGES,EVENIFYOUGIVENOTICEOFTHEPOSSIBILITYOFSUCHDAMAGES.

IfyoudiscoveraDefectinthisetextwithin90daysofreceivingit,youcanreceivearefundofthemoney(ifany)youpaidforitbysendinganexplanatorynotewithinthattimetothepersonyoureceiveditfrom.Ifyoureceiveditonaphysicalmedium,youmustreturnitwithyournote,andsuchpersonmaychoosetoalternativelygiveyouareplacementcopy.Ifyoureceiveditelectronically,suchpersonmay

choosetoalternativelygiveyouasecondopportunitytoreceiveitelectronically.

THISETEXTISOTHERWISEPROVIDEDTOYOU"AS-IS".NOOTHERWARRANTIESOFANYKIND,EXPRESSORIMPLIED,AREMADETOYOUASTOTHEETEXTORANYMEDIUMITMAYBEON,INCLUDINGBUTNOTLIMITEDTOWARRANTIESOFMERCHANTABILITYORFITNESSFORAPARTICULARPURPOSE.

Somestatesdonotallowdisclaimersofimpliedwarrantiesortheexclusionorlimitationofconsequentialdamages,sotheabovedisclaimersandexclusionsmaynotapplytoyou,andyoumayhaveotherlegalrights.

INDEMNITYYouwillindemnifyandholdMichaelHart,theFoundation,anditstrusteesandagents,andanyvolunteersassociatedwiththeproductionanddistributionofProjectGutenberg-tmtextsharmless,fromallliability,costandexpense,includinglegalfees,thatarisedirectlyorindirectlyfromanyofthefollowingthatyoudoorcause:[1]distributionofthisetext,[2]alteration,modification,oradditiontotheetext,or[3]anyDefect.


6/27

DISTRIBUTIONUNDER"PROJECTGUTENBERG-tm"Youmaydistributecopiesofthisetextelectronically,orbydisk,bookoranyothermediumifyoueitherdeletethis"SmallPrint!"andallotherreferencestoProjectGutenberg,or:

[1]Onlygiveexactcopiesofit.Amongotherthings,thisrequiresthatyoudonotremove,alterormodifytheetextorthis"smallprint!"statement.Youmayhowever,ifyouwish,distributethisetextinmachinereadablebinary,compressed,mark-up,orproprietaryform,includinganyformresultingfromconversionbywordprocessingorhypertextsoftware,butonlysolongas*EITHER*:

[*]Theetext,whendisplayed,isclearlyreadable,anddoes*not*containcharactersotherthanthoseintendedbytheauthorofthework,althoughtilde(~),asterisk(*)andunderline(_)charactersmaybeusedtoconveypunctuationintendedbytheauthor,andadditionalcharactersmaybeusedtoindicatehypertextlinks;OR

[*]TheetextmaybereadilyconvertedbythereaderatnoexpenseintoplainASCII,EBCDICorequivalentformbytheprogramthatdisplaystheetext(asisthecase,forinstance,withmostwordprocessors);OR

[*]Youprovide,oragreetoalsoprovideonrequestatnoadditionalcost,feeorexpense,acopyoftheetextinitsoriginalplainASCIIform(orinEBCDICorotherequivalentproprietaryform).

[2]Honortheetextrefundandreplacementprovisionsofthis"SmallPrint!"statement.

[3]PayatrademarklicensefeetotheFoundationof20%ofthegrossprofitsyouderivecalculatedusingthemethodyoualreadyusetocalculateyourapplicabletaxes.Ifyoudon'tderiveprofits,noroyaltyisdue.Royaltiesarepayableto"ProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundation"the60daysfollowingeachdateyouprepare(orwerelegallyrequiredtoprepare)yourannual(orequivalentperiodic)taxreturn.Pleasecontactusbeforehandtoletusknowyourplansandtoworkoutthedetails.

WHATIFYOU*WANT*TOSENDMONEYEVENIFYOUDON'THAVETO?ProjectGutenbergisdedicatedtoincreasingthenumberof

publicdomainandlicensedworksthatcanbefreelydistributedinmachinereadableform.

TheProjectgratefullyacceptscontributionsofmoney,time,publicdomainmaterials,orroyaltyfreecopyrightlicenses.Moneyshouldbepaidtothe:"ProjectGutenbergLiteraryArchiveFoundation."

Ifyouareinterestedincontributingscanningequipmentorsoftwareorotheritems,pleasecontactMichaelHartat:


7/27

[email protected]

[Portionsofthisheaderarecopyright(C)2001byMichaelS.HartandmaybereprintedonlywhentheseEtextsarefreeofallfees.][ProjectGutenbergisaTradeMarkandmaynotbeusedinanysalesofProjectGutenbergEtextsorothermaterialsbetheyhardwareorsoftwareoranyotherrelatedproductwithoutexpresspermission.]

*ENDTHESMALLPRINT!FORPUBLICDOMAINETEXTS*Ver.10/04/01*END*

ThisetextwasproducedbyCharlesFranksandtheOnlineDistributedProofreadingTeam.

TRAVELLERS'STORIES

BY

MRS.FOLLEN

IllustratedwithEngravings.

TRAVELLERS'STORIES

Itisthepleasanttwilighthour,andFrankandHarryChiltonareintheiraccustomedseatbytheirmother'ssideintheoldsofa,that

samecomfortableoldsofa,whichmighthavelistenedtomanypleasantandinterestingstoriesthatwillneverbetold.

Mother,saidFrank,youhaveoftenpromisedusthatsometimeyouwouldtellusaboutyourtravelsinEurope.Thisisagoodstormyevening,andnoonewillcomeintointerruptyou;soplease,dearMother,tellusallyoucanremember.

Itisnow,boys,fiveyearssincemyreturnfromEurope.MuchthatIdidandsawwhilethereIforget.However,asIhavebeenlatelylookingovermyhastyjournal,IwillseewhatIcanremember.

OnthefirstofAugustIsetsailinthesteamerCaledoniafor

England.Atfouro'clockintheafternoon,wewereoutofsightofland;onebyone,wehadtakenleaveofeveryobjectwhichcouldbeseenfromthedepartingvessel;andnownothingwasvisibletousbutthesky,theoceanmeetingitinitswide,unbrokencirclethesungraduallysinkinginthewest,andoursmallbutonlyhouse,theship.Howstrange,howsublimethescenewas!solonely,somagnificent,sosolemn!Atlastthesunset,gildingtheclouds,andlooking,tomytearfuleyes,asifthattoosaidfarewell!Thenthemoonappeared;andthelong,indefinitelineoflightfromwhereherraysfirsttouchedthewaterstoourship,andthedancingofthe


8/27

wavesastheycrossedit,catchingthelightastheypassed,weresobeautifulthatIwasunwillingtoleavethedeckwhenthehourforrestarrived.

Thewindwasagainstus,andwedidnotgetonveryfast;butIenjoyedthenovelscenethenextday,andpassedallmytimeondeck,watchingthesailorsandthepassengers,andnoticingthedifferencebetweenEnglishmenandAmericans.

OnSundayitwasverycold,andthewind,stillcontrary,rosehigherandhigher;itwasimpossibletosetanysail,butIstillkeptondeck,andthusavoidedsickness.SoonafterbreakfastIsawawhitefoamrisingindifferentplacesoccasionally,andwastoldthatitwaswhalesspouting;Isawagreatnumber,andenjoyedithighly.Presentlysomeonecalledout,"Aniceberg!"and,faroffagainstthesky,Isawthisfloatingwonder.Itwasverybeautiful;suchadazzlingwhite,socalmandmajestic,andsolonely;itwasshaped,asIthought,likeanoldcathedral,butothersthoughtlikeasleepinglion,takingwhatIcalledtheruinedtowerforhisheadandmane.

Soonafterthis,themanonthelookoutcried,"SteamshipAmerica;"andinafewmomentsmorewesawhercomingswiftlytowardsuswithhersailsallset,forthewindwasfairforher.CaptainLeitch

thentoldmethatheshouldstophisvesselandsendaboatonboard,andthathewouldsendaletterbyitifIwouldwriteonequickly;toothershesaidthesamething.Inamomentthedeckwascleared,andinafewmoremomentsallhadreturnedwiththeirletters;andneverwasthereamorebeautifulsightthanthesetwofinesteamersmanoeuvringtostopatarespectfuldistancefromeachother;thenourlittleboatwaslowered,andO,howprettyitwastoseeherdancingovertheroughwavestotheothersteamer!WesenttotheAmericathesadnewsofthelossoftheKestrel.Afterwhatseemedtousalongtime,theboatreturnedandbroughtpapers,&c.,butnoimportantnews;andinafewmomentsthetwosteamerscourtesiedtoeachother,andeachwentonherway.

Aftersixdays,thewaveshadrisentoaterribleheight;thewindwasallbutagale;theocean,asfarasonecouldsee,wasoneroaringfoam;oneafteranothertheangrybillowsrosetotheheightoftwentyorthirtyfeet,androlledon,curlingovertheirgreensides,andthenbrokewithavoiceofthunderagainstourvessel.

Icrawledoutofthecabin,assistedbytwogentlemen,andfromthelowerdecksawthesublimecommotionoverthebulwarks,whentheshiprolledoveronthesidewhereIwassitting.Theseabrokeoverourvesselrepeatedly;itwentoverthetopofthesmokepipe,andstruckthefore-topsailinthemiddlebutdid,nothurteitherofthem.Thefourthofficerwaswashedoutofhisberthbyaseawhenhewasasleep.Oneofthepaddlesbroke,butinaveryshorttime

wasreplaced.Oneofthewheelswasoftenentirelyoutofwater,butnoharmwasdoneusbyanyofthesedisasters;andonwewentsafethroughthetroubledwaters.

Atnight,whenwewereplanninghowweshouldsecureourselvesfromrollingaboutthecabin,therecameasuddenlurchoftheship,andeverythingmovablewassentSLAMBANGononesideofthecabin;andsuchacrashofcrockeryinthepantry!Afewminutesaftercameasoundasifwehadstruckarock."Whatisthat?"Iaskedofthestewardess.


9/27

"Onlyasea,ma'am,"shereplied.InmyheartIhopedweshouldnothaveanothersuchboxontheear.

Wehadahorridnight,butthenextdayitgrewquieter,thoughitwasstillrough,andthewindahead.Soonafter,itgrewfair,andthecaptainpromisedusthatonMonday,beforetwelveo'clock,weshouldseeIreland;andsureenoughitwasso.Iwasondeckagainjustattwelve;thesuncameoutoftheclouds,andthematetookanobservation.

"Thatisworthfivepounds,"saidhe;"nowIknowjustwhereweare."

Thenthecaptainwentuponthewheel-box,andweheardthewelcomesound,"ToryIsland."Wewerethengreatlyrejoiced;thiswasthetwelfthdayofourvoyage.Atnight,foronehour,thewindblewagale,andtheshiprockedinaverydisagreeablemanner;butatsixo'clockonTuesdaymorningwewereondeck,andtherewasthebeautifulWelshcoast,andSnowdonjusttakingoffhisnight-cap;andsoonwesaw"England,thatpreciousstonesetinasilversea."

Nexttothethoughtoffriendswhomwehadpartedfromforsolongatime,mymindduringthevoyagewasoccupiedwiththeideaof

Columbus.WhenIlookedupontherude,boundlessocean,andrememberedthatwhenhesetoutwithhislittlevesseltogotoalandthatnooneknewanythingof,noteventhattherewassuchaland,hewasguidedaltogetherbyhisfaithinitsexistence;thathehadnosympathy,butonlyopposition;thathehadnocharts,nothingbutthecompass,thatsurebutmysteriousguide,--thethoughtofhissublimecourage,ofhispatientfaith,wassopresenttomymind,thatitseemedasifIwasactuallysometimesinhispresence.

Theotherideawasthewonderfulskilldisplayedintheconstructionofthesmall,butwonderfullypowerfulandbeautifullyarrangedandsafehome,inwhichweweremovingonthisimmenseandturbidocean,

carryingwithinherthegreatcentralfirebywhichtheenginewasmoved,which,inspiteofwindsandwaves,carriedussafelyalong;thenthesciencewhichenabledthemasterofthiscuriousnutshellofman'scontrivingtoknowjustinwhatpartofthiswasteoftracklesswaterswewere.AllthesethingsIknewbefore,andhadoftenthoughtofthem,butwasneversoimpressedwiththem;itwasalmostasiftheywerenewtome.

BeforeIquittheocean,ImusttellyouofwhatIsawforwhichIcannotaccount,and,hadnotoneofthegentlemenseenittoo,Ishouldalmosthavedoubtedmysenses.Whenwewereentirelyoutofsightofland,Isawawhitebutterflyhoveringoverthewaves,andlookingasifhewereathome.Wherethebeautifulcreaturecame

from,orhowhelived,orwhatwouldbecomeofhim,noonecouldtell.Heseemedtometobethereasasymbolandadeclarationthatthesoulsofthosewhosebodieslayintheoceanwereyetlivingandpresentwiththosetheyhadloved.

WhenwearrivedatLiverpool,wefoundaverydearfriend,whomwehadknowninAmerica,onthewharfreadytoreceiveus.Hetookustohishouse,andwefeltthatwewerenot,afterall,inastrangeland.Loveandkindnessarethehomeofallsouls,andshowuswhatheavenmustbe.


10/27

ThethingthatimpressedmemostwasthedimlightoftheEnglishday,thesoft,undefinedshadows,comparedwithourbrilliantsunshineandsharplydefinedshade--thenthecoloringofthehouses,thestreets,theground,ofeverything;nobrightcolors,allsober,someverydark,--theideaofage,gravity,andstability.Nobodyseemsinahurry.Ourcountryseemssoyoungandvehement;thissograveandcollected!

NowIwilltellyousomethingaboutmyvisittomydearfriendHarrietMartineau,whosebeautifullittlebooks,"FeatsontheFiord,""TheCroftonBoys,"andtheothers,youlovesomuchtoread.ShelivesatAmbleside,inwhatiscalledtheLakeCountry.AmblesideisabeautifulcountrytowninthevalleyoftheRotha,andnotfarfromLakeWindermere.Aroundthetownrisehighhills,whichperhapsmaybecalledmountains.Thesemountainsarenot,likemanyofours,clothedtothesummitwiththickwildforests,buthavefewertrees,andareoftenbareatthesummit.Themixtureofgrayrockandgreengrassformssuchabeautifulcoloringovertheirgracefulandsometimesgrotesqueoutlinethatyouwouldnothavethemotherthantheyare.

TheAmblesidehousesareofdark-graystone,andalmostallofthemhaveivyandflowersaboutthem.Onesmallhouse,theoldestinthe

village,wasseveralhundredyearsold;andoutofallthecrevicesbetweenthestoneshungharebellsandotherwildflowers;onesideofitandmuchoftheroofwerecoveredwithivy.Thishousewasonlyabouttenfeetsquare,anditlookedtomelikeagreatrusticflowerpot.

Ishouldlikesometimetoreadyouadescriptionofthislovelyplace,writtenbyMissMartineauherself.ThenyouwillalmosthearthemurmuringsoundoftheBrathayandtheRotha,andbreathetheperfumeofthewildheather,andcatchthefreshnessofthemorningbreeze,assheoffersyouthesemountainluxuriesinherglowingwords.

MissMartineaulivesalittleoutofthevillage.Youdriveuptothehousethroughashrubberyoflaurels,androses,andfuschias,andotherplants,--youngtreesandflowers,--tothebeautifullittleporch,coveredwithhoneysucklesandcreepingplants.Thebackofthehouseisturnedtotheroad,andthefrontlooksoutovertheloveliestgreenmeadows,tothegrand,quiethills,sometimesclearandsharpintheiroutlineagainstthebluesky,andatotherswreathedwithmist;andonemightsitforhoursatthelargebaywindowintheparlor,watchingthesechanges,andaskingnootherenjoyment.

Itwasalsoagreatpleasuretowitnessthetrueandhappylifeofmyfriend.Isawtherethehighestideasofduty,usefulness,and

benevolencecarriedintodailypractice.MissMartineautookusonemorningtoseethepoetWordsworth.Helivedinalow,old-fashionedstonehouse,surroundedbylaurels,androses,andfuschias,andotherflowersandfloweringshrubs.Theporchisallcoveredwithivy.Wefoundthevenerablemaninhislow,darkparlor.Heverykindlyshowedushisstudy,andthentookusoverhisgrounds.

Whenwetookourleave,Iaskedhimtogiveeachofusaleaffromafinelaureltreenearhim;thishedidverykindly,andsmiledaskindlyatmyeffortatacompliment,insayingtohimsomething


11/27

aboutonewhohadreceivedsomanylaurelshavingsometosparetoothers.Ithankedhimforhisgoodnessingivingmesomuchofhistime,andbadethevenerablemangoodby,verymuchpleasedwithmyvisit,andverygratefultothekindfriendwhohadintroducedmetohim,andinsuredmeawelcome.Ishallneverforgetthatday.

Amblesideisaveryfashionableplacefortravellerstovisitinthesummermonths,andwesawtheremanydistinguishedandagreeablepeople.

Ihadaconversationwithanintelligentladoffourteenyearsofage,whichimpressedmeverymuch.Hewastalkingwithmeaboutourcountry,andfindingfaultswithitofvariouskinds.WhileIcould,Idefendedit.Hethoughtourrevolutionwasonlyarebellion.Itoldhimthatallrevolutionswereonlysuccessfulrebellions,andthatweborewiththetyrannyofhiscountryaslongaswecould."Idon'tliketheAmericans,"saidhe;heblushedashethoughtofthediscourtesyofsayingthistome,andthenadded,"theyaresoinconsistent;theycallthemselvesrepublicans,andthenholdslaves,andthatissowickedandabsurd."Hewentontosayallhethoughtandfeltaboutthewickednessofslavery.Iheardhimtotheend,andthensaid,"ThereisnothingyouhavesaiduponthatsubjectthatIdonotagreetoentirely.Youcannotsaytoomuchagainstslavery;butIcallmyselfanabolitionist,andwhileI

live,ImeantosayanddoallIcanagainstit.TherearemanypeopleinAmerica,also,whofeelasIdo,andwehopetoseeitabolished."

WhilewewereinWestmoreland,wemadeanexcursionoffourdaysamongthebeautifullakes.MissMartineauwasourguideandcompanion.Sheknowsthenameofeverymountain,everylake,everyglenanddale,everystreamandtarn,andherguidancelentanewcharmtothescenesofgrandeurandbeautythroughwhichsheconductedus.

Wetookavehiclewhichthepeoplecallajauntingcar;itisasquareopencarriagewithtwosideseatsandadoorbehind;andis

drawnbyonehorse.Twoeasystepsandadooreasilyopenedletyouinandoutwhenyouplease.Thecarholdsfourpersons.Thedriverhasaseatinfront,andunderithetiedourcarpetbag.

Neverdidfoursoulsenjoythemselvesmorethanweonthislittleexcursion.Icouldnotgiveyouanadequateideaofwhatwesaw,orofthepleasurewetook.ThinkofcomingdownfromoneofthesebeautifulhillsintoEskdale,orEnnesdale,ofwalkingfourmilesonthebanksofUllswater,oflookingwithyourlivingeyesonDerwentWater,Grassmere,Windermere,andmanyotherlovelyspotsofwhichyouhaveseenpicturesandreaddescriptions;andofbeingoneinthepleasantestpartyintheworld,asyouthink,stoppingwhere,andwhen,andaslongasanyonepleases.

ItwasonthisjourneythatIfirstsawarealruin.TheruinsofCalderAbbeyIhadneverheardof;buttheimpressionitmadeuponmeIcanneverforget;partly,perhaps,thatitwasthefirstruinuponwhichIevergazed.Onerowofthepillarsofthegreataisleremainsstanding.Theansweringrowisgone.Twotallarchesofthebodyofthemainbuildingremainalso,anddifferentpiecesofthewalls.Itisofsandstone;theclustersofcolumnsintheaislelookasiftheywerealmostheldtogetherbytheivyandhoneysucklesthatwavearoundtheirmoulderingcapitalswitheverymotionofthe


12/27

wind.Ineverycrevice,theharebell,thefoxglove,andinnumerableotherflowerspeepforth,andswinginthewind.Onthetopsofthearchesandwallslargefloweringshrubsaregrowing;onthehighestisasmalltree,andwithinthewallsareoaktreesmorethanacenturyold.Theabbeywasbuiltsevenhundredyearsago;andtheruinsthatarenowstandinglookasiftheymightstandmanycenturieslonger.Theowneroftheplacehasmadeallsmoothandnicearoundit,sothatyoumayimaginethefloorofthechurchtolooklikegreenvelvet.Itseemsasiftheivyandtheflowerswerecaressingandsupportingtheabbeyinitsbeautifuloldage.

AsIwalkedunderthearchesanduponthesoftgreenturf,thatsomanyyearsagohadbeenacoldroughstonepavement,troddenbybeingslikemyself;andfelttheflowersandvineshangingfromthemoulderingcapitalstouchmyface;andsaw,intheplacewherewasonceaconfessional,anoaktreethathadtakencenturiestogrow,andwhosetopbranchesmingledwiththesmilingcrestofflowersthatcrownedthetopsofthehighestarches,--thethoughtofthelittlenessandthegreatnessofman,andtheeverlastingbeautyoftheworksoftheCreator,almostoverwhelmedme;andIfeltthat,afterall,Iwasnotinadecaying,ruinedtemple,butinaneverlastingchurch,thatwouldgrowgreenandmorebeautifulandperfectastimepasseson.

Thereisafineoldparkaroundtheselovelyruins;and,notfaroff,abeautifulstreamofwater,withacuriousbridgeoverit.Theoldmonkswellknewhowtochoosebeautifulplacestolivein.Allharmonizes,except--Igrievetotellofit--ashockingmodernhouse,verynear,veryugly,and,Isuppose,ridiculouslyelegantandcomfortableinside.Fromthishideosityyoumustresolutelyturnaway;andthenyoumaysay,asIdid,thatyourmortaleyeshaveneverrestedonanythingsolovelyastheruinsofCalderAbbey.

SometimesMissMartineauwouldtellussomeprettylegend,orsomegoodstory.

Thiswasoneofthelegends:NearthebordersoftheUllswateris

thebeautifulAraForce,oneofthemostlovelyfallsIhaveseeninEngland.Onemaystandbelow,andlookupattherushingstream,orabove,onthetopofthefall.Here,longago,inthetimeofthecrusades,stoodapairoflovers;andheregrowsanoldoakwhichwastheirtrystingtree.Theladywasofnoblebirth,andlivedinacastlenearby;andhertrueknightusedtocomeatthestillhourofeveningtomeetherattheAraForce.

AtlengththeloverwascalledawaytotheHolyLand.Ashelefthislady,hevowedtobehertrueknight,andtoreturnandwedher.Manylongdayspassedaway,andtheladywaitedinvainforhertrueknight.ThoughsheheardoftenfromothersofhischivalrousdeedsintheEast,yetnowordcamefromhimtotellherhewasfaithful;

andshebegantofearthathewasnolongertruetoher,butwasservingsomeotherlady.Despairatlastcameuponher;andshegrewwanandpale,andsleptnolongersoundly:But,whentheworldwasatrest,shewouldriseinhersleep,andwandertothetrystingtree,andpluckoffthegreenoakleaves,andthrowthemintothefoamingwater.

Theknightwasallthistimefaithful,butwasnotabletosendwordtohisladylove.Atlast,hereturnedtoEngland,andhastenedtowardsthecastlewhereshelived.


13/27

ItwaslateatnightwhenhecametotheAraForce;andhesathimdownunderthetrystingtreetowaitforthemorning.Whenhehadbeentherealongtime,hesawafigureapproach,allinwhite,andpluckofftheoakleaves,andflingthemintothestream.Angrytoseethesacredtreethusinjured,herosetopreventit.Thefigurestartedandawoke.Inamomentheknewhisbelovedlady.Shewasnowonthefrailbridge.Thesuddenshock,andtheroaroftheForcebelow,hadmadehergiddy.Heleapedforwardtoembraceandsaveher.Alas!toolate.Herfootslipped,andshefell.Itwasallover.Thewatertumblingfardownintotherockychasmbeneathtoldthestoryofdeath.

Theknightwasinconsolable.Heretiredfromtheworldforever,andbuiltamonasterynearby,onthebordersofthelake,wherehedied.

Thefrailbridgeisnowgone,andastrongplank,witharailing,suppliesitsplace.Butthewaterstillroarsdowntherockasonthefatalnight;andthefoamandspraylookasifthewhitegarmentsofthefairladywerestillflutteringoverthedeepbelow.

FromAmblesideIwentwithsomefriendstovisitDr.NicholatGlasgow.Wetookcoachfirst,andthentherailroad.Forthesakeof

economywetookasecondclasscarriage.Thesecondclasscarriages,ontheEnglishrailroad,are,infact,boxeswithsmallholesforwindows,fromwhichyoumay,ifyouarenotveryshort,seesomethingoftheworldyouareflyingthrough,butnotmuch.Good,honest,hardboardsareonthefloor,sides,tops,andseats;inshort,allaroundyou.Thebacksarenotslantedatall.Youmustsitboltupright,ornotsitatall.Nowandthen,thesevehicleshaveathinleatherontheseats--notoften.

Nothingcanbemoreluxuriousthanafirstclasscarriage.Thefloorsarenicelycarpeted,theseatsandbacksareallstuffed;eachseatisaveryniceeasychair.Youcansleepinthemalmostaswellasinabed;butthesecarriagesareveryexpensive;andon

thisaccountmanyofthegentrytakethoseofthesecondclass,hardastheyare.

WearrivedatGlasgowateighto'clockintheevening,andwereunfortunateenoughtohaveadrivertothevehiclewetook,whodidnotknowwheretheObservatorywas.Weknewthatitwasthreemilesfromthecity,andnotmuchmore.Wewereadvisedbyagentleman,whowasinthesamerailroadboxwithus,totakeanoddy,oraminibus,totheObservatory.Whatthesethingswere,ofcourse,wecouldonlyguess,andwedidnotcaremuch,sowecouldonlygetoutofourwoodenbox.WecametotheconclusionthatwecouldsympathizetolerablywellwithpoorBoxBrown.

We,aswehadbeenadvised,tookanoddy.Aminibusisonlyasmallomnibus.Anoddyisacontrivancethatholdsfour,andhasadoorattheend,andonlyonehorse,--verylikeaYankeecab.

Glasgow,aseveryoneknows,isoneofthegreatestmanufacturingcitiesintheworld.Beforewearrived,wewereastonishedatthegreatfiresfromtheironworksintheenvirons;and,asthestreetswerewelllighted,oureyesweredazzledanddelightedwiththewholescene,andweweresopleasedwiththecomfortofournoddy,thatwedidnotatfirstfeeltroubledatthefactthatneitherour


14/27

drivernorweknewwhereDr.Nichol'shousewas.Presentlywefoundourselvesleftinthemiddleofthestreet,andsawournoddyman,inashopasbrightasday,poringoveradirectory.Allhecouldlearnwaswhatwehadalreadytoldhim,andsoonhewent,notknowingwhetherrightorwrong,givingusafineopportunityofseeingthecityintheevening.Atlast,hecametothebridgeovertheClyde,andtherethetollmandirectedustotheObservatory.

Afteralongdrive,evidentlyovernotaverygoodroad,thedriverstopped,andtoldusthatherewasDr.Nichol'shouse.Hebegantotakeoffourluggage.Weinsisteduponhisinquiring,first,ifthatwasDr.Nichol's.Hetookoffourtrunk,andwouldhaveusgoin;weresisted;andafterawhileherangthebell,andtheanswerwas,"Dr.Nichollivesinthenexthouse."Stillhigherwehadtoclimb,andatlaststoppedattheveritableObservatory,whereourfriend,whowasexpectingus,lived.Nothingcouldexceedthehospitalitywithwhichwewerereceived.

Early,onemisty,smokymorning,IembarkedinoneofthefamouslittleClydesteamers,andsetoutonaHighlandtour.IhadheardofoldScotia'sbarrenhills,clothedwiththepurpleheatherandtheyellowgorse,ofherdeepglens,ofherromanticstreams;buttherealitywentfarbeyondthedescription,ormyimagination.Thehillsareallbareoftrees,buttheiroutlineisverybeautifuland

infinitelyvaried.Picturetoyourselfaridgeofhillsormountainsallpurplewiththeheather,relievedwiththesilver-grayoftherocksandwithpatchesofthebrightyellowgorse,andallthisharmonyofcolorreflectedinthegreenseawaterwhichrunswindingfarinamongthehills.Asthelightchanges,thesecolorsareeitherbroughtoutmorestrongly,ormingleintoonesoftlilaccolor,orsometimesasortofpurple-gray.Youreyeisenchanted,andneverwearyoflookingandadmiring.IwouldnothaveanytreesontheScotchhills;Iwouldnothavethemotherthantheyare.IfIweredyingIcouldlookatthemwithjoy;theyarelovelybeyondwordstotell.

Iwasonallthemostcelebratedandbeautifullakes.Iwasrowedin

anopenboat,bytwoHighlandyouths,fromoneendofLochKatrinetotheother,andthroughthosebeautiful,high,heathery,rockybanksatoneendofthelake,calledtheTrosachs.Theseexquisiterocksareadorned,andeverycrevicefringedandfestoonedwithharebells,heather,gorse,andhereandtherebeautifulevergreentrees.Wepassedby"Ellen'sIsle,"asitiscalled,themostexquisitelittleislandeverformed,aperfectoval,andallcoveredwiththepurpleheather,thegoldengorse,andallsortsofflowersandexquisitelybeautifultrees.O,whatalittleparadiseitis!Anumberoflittlerow-boats,withfine-lookingHighlandrowersandgaycompaniesofladiesandgentlemen,werevisitingtheislandaswepassed.TheyshowtheoaktreetowhichtheysayEllenfastenedherboat.Itwasbeautifultoseetheglancingofthesunlighton

theoarsoftheseboats,andthebrightcolorsoftheshawlsandbonnetsoftheladiesinthem,andtowitnessthishomagetonatureandgeniuswhichtheywerepayingintheirvisittoEllen'sIsle.Iwasgladtojointhem,anddoreverencetoo.Theheatherisusuallynotmorethantwofeethigh,--sometimeshigher,butoftenshorter;butonEllen'sIsleitgrowstotheheightoffourandfivefeet.

JustbeforewecametoOban,wepassedtheestateofLordHeigh,whereweheardthefollowingstory.Theoriginofhisnameandrankisthis:WhenKingKennethruledinScotland,hewasbeatenina


15/27

greatbattlebytheDanes,andhisarmyscatteredamongthehills,whiletheenemywasmarchinghomeintriumph.AmanintheScottisharmysaidthatheknewapassthroughwhichthevictormustgo,whereonemanmightstopathousand,andofferedhimselfandhistwosonstodefendit.Hecametothepassarmedonlywithanox-yoke,butmadesuchuseofhisweaponthattheDaneswerekeptatbay,tilltheScotsralliedandcutthemtopieces.WhenKennethreachedthepass,hefoundhisbravesubjectlyingintruthquiteexhausted.Heraisedhimup,andinquiredhisname;thefaintingmancouldonlygasp,"Heigh-ho,heigh!"FromthatmomenthewascalledtheLordofHeigh,andthekinggavehimasmuchlandasaneaglecouldflyoverwithoutalighting.Thefamilyarmsareaneagleonthewingoveranox-yoke.

AtEdinburgh,IwenttoseetheRegalia,whicharekeptinasmallroominthecastle,inwhichtheywerefoundafterbeingburiedthereformorethanacentury.Itisasmallroom,notmorethantwelvefeetsquare.OnonesideistheironchestinwhichtheRegaliawerefound;andinthemiddleoftheroomisamarbletable,entirelywhite,surroundedbyanirongrating,onwhichisthecrownwhichRobertBrucehadmadeforhimself,theswordofJamestheFirst,thesignetringofCharlestheFirst,andotherjewelsthathadbelongedtosomeoftheScottishkings.Aroundtheseandtheotherinsigniaoftheirformerroyaltythelampsarealwaysburning.

ThisisanaltarsacredtoAuldLangSyne.

IarrivedinYorkathalfpasttwoo'clockatnight.Allwasdarkinthecity,savethelightsinthelargestation,wherewewereletoutofourboxeswithourluggage.Wehadcontrivedoccasionallytoliedownonthehardwoodenseats,restingourheadsonourcarpetbags,and,byalittleentreaty,hadsecuredaboxtoourselves,sothatwewerenotquitesowearyaswemighthavebeen,andwereingoodspiritsforwhatwasbeforeus,whichwastohuntupalodgingplacefortheremainderofthenight,foralltheinnswereclosed.

Afterawhile,wegotaportertotaketheluggage.Aftersomehardknockingwerousedaninnkeeper,andbythreeo'clockwewereallin

asgoodbedsasmortalscoulddesire.

Atnineo'clockwebreakfasted,andattenmydelightedeyesrestedonthereal,livingYorkMinster;thedreamofmyyouthwasrealized,andIstoodinitsmajesticpresence.Ientered;theservicehadjustbegun;theorganwasplaying,theywerechanting.Youcouldnottellfromwhencethemusiccame.Itwaseverywhere;itentersyoursoullikeabeautifulpoeticthought,andyouknownotwhatpossessesyou.Onlyyourwholesoulisfullofworship,peace,andjoy.Icouldhardlykeepfromfallingonmyknees.Lookatthefineengravings,andstudyitalloutaswellasyoucan;stillyoucanformnoadequateideaoftheeffectofthoseendlessarches,oftheexquisitecarvinginstone,oftheflowers,strange

figures,andinshorteverywild,everygrotesquethingthatyoucanorcannotimagine.Wellhasitbeencalledagreatpoeminstone,--suchgrace,suchaspiration,suchpower,suchharmony.O,itwasworthcrossingtheAtlantic,thatfirstimpression.

Aftertheservice,Itookaguideandwentalloverthismiracleofbeautyandgenius,andreadtheinscriptionsandsawthecuriosities.

DuringmysecondstayinLiverpool,myfriendtookmetoChester,


16/27

thatwonderfuloldcity,justonthebordersofWales.Ifyoucanimaginethefrontroomsofthesecondstoryofarowofhousestakenout,andintheirplaceafloorputoverthelowerstoryandaceilingundertheupperstory,andshopsinthebackrooms,youwillformsomeideaofChester.Allthestreets,nearly,aremadeinthisway.Thecartsandhorsesgointhenarrowstreetsbetweenthehouses,butfootpassengerswalkinthiscurioussortofpiazzas,putintothehousesinsteadofbeingaddedtothem.Themostelegantshopsarehereinthesebackrooms,andyouwalkforwholelongstreetsundercover,withthedwellingsoftheinhabitantsoveryourheadsandunderyourfeet.Oftentheupperstoryshelvesoverthethird,sothatyoualmostwonderwhythehousedoesnottumbleover.

Afriend,whomIhadneverseen,didmethehonortoinvitemetoherhospitablemansioninManchester.Itwasindeedagreatprivilegetobeallowedtomakeapartofthefamilycircle,andsitwiththembytheirfireside,andbemadetofeelathomesofarfromone'snativeland;andthisIexperiencedallthetimeIwasinEngland.

IwaspreparedfortheappearanceofManchester.SoIwasnotastonishedatthenumberoftallchimneys,noratthequantityofsmokethatissuedfromthem.AndIcouldquiteenterintothefeelingsofthefriendwhotoldmethatnothingwasmoremelancholy

thantoseeaclearatmosphereoverthetown;theblackeritlookedthemoreprosperitywasindicated,andthemorecauseforrejoicing.

Mykindfriendtookmetooneofthegreatprintfactories.Myprincipalwishforgoingwastoseehowthefactorypeoplelooked,whethertheyseemedwellandhappy.Iobservedthem;theywerewelldressed,andwerecheerfulintheirappearance.Therewereafewchildrenemployed,wholookedhealthyandhappy.Therewasatthisfactoryareadingroom,nicelywarmedandperfectlycomfortable,wheretheworkman,bysubscribingapennyortwoaweek,couldobtaintherighttospendhisleisurehoursandseetheperiodicalsandnewspapers.Eachonehadavoteindecidingwhatthesepapersshouldbe,astheywerepaidforbythesubscriptionmoneyofthe

laborers.Theproprietorspaidacertainsumtowardsthesupportofthereadingroom.

Ofcourse,seeingoneprosperousfactoryandthefortunateworkmeninit,inManchester,cannotenableonetoformanyadequatejudgmentoftheconditionoftheworkingpeople.

IvisitedtheAsylumfortheDeafandDumb,whichappearedtometohaveanadmirableteacher.Oneofhisbestaidsisayoungmanwhowashispupil.Theteacherdesiredmetoaskofthisyoungmanthemeaningofsomewordthathadanabstractmeaning.Iaskedhimwhatheunderstoodbyintelligence.Heputhishandtohishead,andthoughtforsometime,beforeheattemptedtoreply;thenhenearly

coveredtheslatewithhisdefinition.Heevidentlysawthedifferencebetweenintelligenceandlearningorknowledge,buthadtousemanywordstoexpresshisidea;butIthoughthehadasclearathoughtasanyofus.Afterhehadgiventhebestdefinitionhecould,headded,"Thereisanothermeaningtotheword:itmeansnews,sometimes."

Therewas,atthisAsylum,alittlegirl,abouttwelveyearsold,whowasblind,aswellasdeafanddumb.Shewasaveryinterestingchildfromhercountenanceandmanner,apartfromherinfirmity.Her


17/27

facewasfarmorebeautifulthanLauraBridgman's;herheadgood,butnotsofineatpresent,notsowelldeveloped.Hereyeswereclosed,andherlong,darklashesrestedonhercheekswithamournfulexpression.Theteacherwasjustgettingintocommunicationwithher,buthadtomakemanyefforts,suchaspressingherhead,herheart,andshoulders,aswellasherhands.WhenhetriedtotellherthatLauraBridgman,inAmerica,wasinthesamestatethatshewas,andthatshehadlearnedagreatdeal,andhadsentherlovetoallthedeafanddumb,byaladywhohadcometoseeher,sheraisedherhead,andlookedasiftryingtoseeorhear,andthenputoutherhand.Itookit,andthentoldtheteacherhowDr.HoweandotherscommunicatedwithLauraBridgmanbymovingtheirfingers,andmakingcertainimpressionsonthepalmofherhand.AsItoldhim,Iimitatedthemotionswithmyfingersonthepalmofherhand.ShegaveoneofthosepeculiarscreamswhichLauraBridgmandoes,attimes,whensheisexcited,andherwhitefaceglowedwithpleasureandstrongemotion.

HerteachertoldmeIhadputmyselfintocommunicationwithher;butmyheartachedtothinkIcoulddonomore.

Inafewmomentswelefther.ShetoldherteachertotellmetogiveherlovetoLauraBridgman,andsatdownagainuponherlittlebench,inthesolitudeofherperpetualsilenceandblindness.

WhenIhadbeenovertheinstitution,andseentheadmirableworkoftheinmates,andwasaboutleaving,Ihadtopassnearthislovelychildagain.WhenIwaswithinthreeorfourfeetofher,sheputoutherhandandtookholdofme.Itseemedasifsheknewmefromtherestoftheparty,afterIhadthusbychancespokentoherimprisonedsoul.NoonewillwonderthatIcouldnotkeepthetearsoutofmyeyes.

Ivisitedanothercollectionofchildren,whomighthavebeenstillmoreunfortunatethanthesebutforthewisecharityofthepeopleofManchester.TheSwintonUnionSchoolisalarge,noblebuilding,intheoutskirtsofManchester.Theschoolisafinelookingplace,

surroundedbynicegardensandgrounds.Itcancontainonethousandchildren;thereweretheninitsixhundredandfifty.Theyhaveafine,large,well-ventilatedschoolroom.Theyhavealargeplacetowashthemselves,withasufficientnumberofseparate,fixedbasins,arrangedtoadmitandletoffwater,atowelandpieceofsoapforeachchild;andtheyareobligedtowashtheirfacesandhandsthreetimesaday.Therearegreattankswheretheyareallbathedtwiceaweek.

Theyhaveafineinfantschoolforthelittleones,mostadmirablymanaged.Thelargegirlsaretaughttowash,andiron,anddohousework.Theboysare,someofthem,taughtthetailor'strade,andsometheshoemaker's,andothersthebaker's.Itwasapretty

sighttoseethelittlefellowssittingontheirlegs,makingtheirownjacketsandtrousers,andlaughingtogether,andlookingashappyasboyscanlook;andjustsowiththelittleshoemakers.Theyworkonlyfourhours,andthenanothersettaketheirplace.Theroomwaslargeandairy,andperfectlycomfortable.Isawtheclothestheyhadmade,allnicelypressedandputawayintheirstorerooms,readyforwear.Sowiththeshoes;theymendedtheiroldshoesandtheiroldclothesthemselves.

Isawthoseofthechildrenwhowerenotatwork,atplay;forthe


18/27

schoolhourswerepast.Isawtheirhappyfaces,theirclean,tidyclothes,andtheirlongrowsofnice,cleanbeds,forIwentintoeverypartofthehouse,andabeautifulsightitallwas.Inthekitchensomegirlsweremakingupthebread,andmostexcellentbreaditwas,andagood,large,thickslicetherewasforeveryone.Isawthedininghall,andallthatbelongedtothatpartoftheconcern,andallwasjustwhatitoughttobe.

Now,youmustknowthattheseare,all,thechildrenofpaupers--childrenwhohavenoearthlyparents,childrenthatthepublicmusttakecareof,ortheywouldliveordieinthestreets.Allthedifferentparisheshaveerectedthisbuilding,andputinthebestteachers,andfurnisheditasIhaverelatedtoyou,andthereplacedthesepoorchildren,whoweregrowingupinviceandmisery.Heretheyaretaughthabitsoforder,industry,andobedience,andlearnawayofsupportingthemselveshonestly,andarekepttilltheyareoldenoughtobeputapprenticetosomegoodpersonwhowilltreatthemwell.So,insteadofsixhundredandfiftyignorant,recklessvagrants,thecommunityreceivesthatnumberofwell-instructed,well-brought-upindividuals,whocansupportthemselvesdecentlyandrespectably.

AnEnglishcountryhome,whereeducation,highbreeding,easycircumstances,oldtrees,roomenough,andamerryfamilycircle,

makelifebeautiful--thishadalwaysbeenoneofmydreamsofearthlyhappiness.AllthiswasrealizedatMrs.C--'s,atChobham,whereIstoppedforavisitonmywaytoLondon.

Everydaymykindfriendsdevisedsomelittleplanformyamusement,beyondtheconstantpleasureoftheevery-daylife.OnedaytheytookmetoWindsor,which,youknow,isoneofthequeen'scountrypalaces.Weapproacheditthroughthefamousavenueofelmsinthepark.Theeffectofthecastle,seenthroughthatlong,longvista,isveryfine.TheEnglishelm,thoughnotsogracefulasours,ismoregrandandstately,andbetterforarchitecturaleffects.Thereweremanydeerinthepark,whichaddedmuchtoitsbeauty.Atlastwewereatthecastle;itisafinebuilding,butwouldbefarmore

picturesqueinruinsthaninitspresentperfectstate.Wewentfirstintothechapel;thisisexquisitelybeautiful.TheGothicclustersofpillarsspringingupfromthefloorriseunbrokentotheroof,andspreadoutlikepalmtrees.Theemblazonedcoatsofarmsoftheknightsofthegarterhangingallaroundonthepillarsofthechapel,thebeautifulcarvedornamentslikelace-work,andmanyotherrareandlovelyobjects,maketheroyalchapelverymagnificent.Therewasahorribleoldwomanwhowentscreechingabouttheroom,showingthepictures,&c.Shewasparticularlyaproposincallingus,whenshefoundwewereAmericans,intoacornerofthechapeltoshowusthetombofLordHarcourt,whoisthererepresentedreceivingtheswordofsomeunfortunateAmericangeneral,andshriekedoutwithhercrackedvoice,"Ithoughtthis

mightinterestyou."

Afterfeastingmyeyeslongenoughuponthechapel,Iwentintothecastle,andjoinedoneofthosebatchesofhumanbeingswhicharedriventhroughthestateapartmentsbytheguide.Theroomsaremagnificent.OnecontainsabeautifulcollectionofpicturesbyVandyke.Wesawthegrandmalachitevase,presentedtoVictoriabytheEmperorofRussia,largeenoughtoholdoneortwomen.Afterseeingtherooms,weascendedthetower,whenceisafineview.Wethenwalkedontheterrace,andwenttojointherestofourparty,


19/27

whohadgonebeforeustothehotel.

WethenwenttogetalookatthefamousEtonschool,aboutamiledistant.TheEtonboysamusedmemuch.Theygothereveryyoung,andremaintherealongwhile,tilltheyarereadytoentertheuniversities.Theirdressindicatestheiradvancementinageandstanding.Firstcomesajacket,thenalittlesuspicionofatail,whichgraduallylengthensandwidensasmaturitycomeson,till,atlast,itisaperfecttailcoat.Isawspecimensinthesevariousstagesofgrowth.

Afteroneofthehappiestweeksthatevermortalspassed,Isaidareluctantfarewell,anddepartedforLondon,wheremorekindfriends,whomIhadneverseen,wereexpectingmyarrival.Icannow,inmymind'seye,seeallthedearfamilyonthestepsorinthehalldoor,givingustheirpartingblessing,andtheoldcomfortable-lookinggentlemanlybutlerarrangingmyluggage.Oneofthedearfamilyaccompaniedmetotherailroad,andsawmefairlyonmywaytoLondon.

InLondonweagainenjoyedthegreatpleasureofbeingreceivedlikeoldfriends,notheardtheretrulydivinemusic.Thereisnodescribingandnoforgettingtheeffectofoneofthosesublimereligiousstrainsthatseemtoburstforthfromyouknownotwhere,

andswellandgrowfullerandlouder,andthenmoreandmoredistant,andfainterandfainter,tillyouthinkitdyinginthedistance,andthengushoutwithanoverwhelmingfulnessofharmonyandbeauty.Onefeelsasifhewouldhearsuchstrainsatthehourofdeath.

OurnextobjectwasSt.Paul's.Howdifferent!howverydifferent!InaGothicbuilding,youthinkthattheartist,whodesignedit,hadinmindtheideaofthesolemnforestwherethecrossingbranchesproduceallthosebeautifullinesandforms,whichsodelightyoureye,andwherethedim,mysteriouslightawakensandaccordswiththereligioussentiment;buttheeffectofthegreatdome,whichsuggeststheopensky,isentirelyopposite.Theeffect

uponyourmindofstandinginthemiddleofSt.Paul'sisveryimpressive;butwhatmovedmemostwasthesoundofthepeoplewithoutthewalls.Nooneofourpartyspoke,andthenoiseofthebusymultitudewithoutwaslikethewavesoftheocean.IhadheardthevoiceofmanywaterswhilecomingovertheAtlantic,andthereisnoexaggeration;itisjustsuchasound,suchanebbingandflowing,andyetsuchafullandconstantroar,asthewavesmakeaftercontinuedhighwinds.Itwastrulysublime,thisconcentratedsoundofthislivingmultitudeofhumanbeings,thesebreathingsandheavingsoftheheartofthemightymonster,London.

Wewereshownalloverthecathedral;wefirstascendedtotheinsidegallery,andwalkedaround,lookingdownuponthewhole

interior;wethenvisitedtheclock,andweheardandfeltthequiverofitstremendousvoice.Wenextenteredthefamouswhisperinggallery,whichismadearoundthebaseofthedomeinside.Thefaintestwhisperisheardatthepointoppositethatwhenceitcomes.Thenwewentoutside,andwalkedsometimearoundthedome,gazingaboutwithgreatdelight.ThenweascendedtotheGoldenGallery,asitiscalledfromthefactthatthebalustradeisgilded.Itrunsaroundthetopofthedome.Fromhere,youseeLondonallspreadoutlikeamapbeforeyou,--itstowers,itsspires,allitsmultitudinousabodes,liebeneathyoureye.One


20/27

littlethingremained.Theballwasyetaboveus.Thegentlemenofourpartywentupvariousperpendicularladders,andatlastpulledthemselvesthroughasmallholeintotheball.Thereisroom,Ithink,thereforadozenpeople,ifwellpacked,nottostand,walk,orsit,however;thesethingsthenatureoftheplaceforbids.Itisastrangefeeling,theysay,tocrouchinthislittleapartmentandhearthewindroaringandshakingthegoldencrossabove.Thewholeballshakessomewhat,andbyasuddenmovementonecanproducequiteaperceptiblemotion.

Wedescendedtheinfinityofstairs,andenteredthecrypt,asitiscalled,underthechurch.Thereweremanygrandtombsthere.Nelson'soccupiesthecentre,andisafinework.ButwhatimpressedmemostwasthetombofSirChristopherWrenhimself;asimpletabletmarkshistomb,withthisinscription,whichisrepeatedaboveinthenave:--

SubtusconditurHujusEcclesiasetUrbisConditor,CHRISTOPHERUSWREN;Quivixitannosultranonaginta,Nonsibi,sedbonopublico.Lector,simonumentumrequiris,Circumspice.

Obiit25Feb.MDCCXXIII.,aetat.XCI.

Wesubjoinatranslationofthisinscriptionforouryoungfriends:--

"UnderneathliesburiedChristopherWren,thebuilderofthischurchandcity;wholivedbeyondtheageofninetyyears,notforhimself,butforthepublicgood.--Reader,ifyouaskforhismonument,lookaroundyou.--Hediedonthe25thofFebruary,1723,aged91."

Heiscalledthebuilderofthecity,aswellasofthechurch;forSirChristopherWrenwasthearchitectofmorethanfiftyofthechurchesinLondon.

Onemorning,ourfriend,MissS.,waskindenoughtoaccompanyustoGreenwich,where,youknow,istheHospitalfordisabledsailorsoftheBritishnavy.Thedaywaswarmandlovely,likewhatwecalltheIndiansummerinAmerica.WetookanomnibustoLondonBridge;fromthenceweproceededbyrailway,andinafewminuteswereinGreenwich.WeenteredthemagnificentoldPark,andwanderedaboutforalongtime,toourhearts'content,amongthevenerableoldtrees,admiringthegracefuldeerthatwereenjoyingthemselvesallaroundus.Atlastwecametothetopofacharminghill,wherewesatdowntorestandlookattheriver.Severalofthesailorshadarrangedspyglassesofvarioussizesfortheaccommodationofvisitors,andforthegoodtothemselvesofafewpence.We

patronizedoneofthese,andthendescendedtotheHospital,whichisthemainobjectofinterest.Itwasjusttimefortheoldsailors'dinner,andwewentintooneoftheirdiningrooms,wheretherewereaboutthreehundredseatedatanexcellentmeal,plain,butwholesomeandplentiful.Averypleasantsightitwas;theywerechatting,tellinggoodoldstories,andlaughingmerrily,andevidentlyenjoyingthemselveshighly.Therewere,atthattime,morethansevenhundredoftheseveteransinthebuilding.Thosewhochosecarriedtheirdinnerstotheirrooms.


21/27

Theplaceforthesailors'sleepingroomswasalonghall,withsmallroomsononesideandlargewindowsontheother.Theroomswerejustlargeenoughforabed,abureau,alittletable,and,Ithink,twochairs.Therewereshelvesaroundtheroom,exceptonthesidethatlookedintotheHall,wherewasthedoorandawindow.Ontheseshelveswererangedlittlekeepsakes,booksandvariousarticlesoftaste,oftenbeautifulshells;therewerehanginguparoundtheroomsprofilesoffriends,perhapsthedearestthatthislifecangiveus.Icouldnothelpthinkingthatmanyatouchingstorymightbetoldbythosesilentbuteloquentmemorials.Weweremuchamusedwithlookingatacardputinoneofthewindowsoftheselittlecomfortablestaterooms,onwhichwaswrittenthesewords:"Anti-poke-your-nose-into-other-folks'-businessSociety.5000Poundsrewardannuallytoanyonewhowillreallymindhisownbusiness;withtheprospectofanincreaseof100Pounds,ifheshallabstainfrompokinghisnoseintootherfolks'business."WereturnedtoLondoninasteamer.

NowyoumustsupposeyouarewalkingwithmeinParis,onabrightSundaymorninginspring.WewillgofirsttothePlaceVendome.Itisanoblongsquarewiththecornerscutoff.Thebuildingsareallofthesamebeautifulcream-coloredstone,andofthesamestyleofarchitecture,--abasementstory,veryprettyandsimple,andupperstoriesornamentedwithCorinthianpilastersandgildedbalconies.

Therearehigh,pointedroofswithprettyluthernwindows.ThePlaceisfourhundredandtwentyfeetbyfourhundredandfifty.Twolargehandsomestreets,oppositetoeachother,theRuedelaPaix,andtheRueCastiglione,openoutofthePlace;thesealonebreaktherangeofhandsomebuildingsthatsurroundthisbeautifulspot.Inthecentreisthemagnificentcolumn,madeinimitationofthecolumnofTrajan,andsurmountedbyabronzestatueofNapoleoninhismilitarydress.Atfirsthewasplacedthereinhisimperialrobes;butwhenhefell,sodidhisstatue,anditwasmelteduptohelpmakeanequestrianstatueofHenryIV.In1833,thepresentstatuewaserected;andthepeopleareveryproudoftheLittleCorporal,astheycallhim,ashestandsupthere,lookingovertheirgloriouscity,asifborntoleadmentoconquest,andto

governtheworld.Insidethecolumnisaspiralstaircasebywhichyouascendtothetopofthecolumn.Youarewellpaidforthefatigueofmountingtheseonehundredandseventy-sixsteps,whenyougetyourbreathandlookdownuponParisglitteringinthesunlight.Whatpleasesmemost,however,isthesceneimmediatelybelow.Allthepeopleareinthestreets.SundayinParisisaholiday.Wholefamiliesleavework,care,--alltheirtroubles,--andcomeintothepublicplacestoenjoythemselves.Thereisnoswearing,nodrunkenness,norudeness,nonoise;theoldfolksseatsthemselvesinchairs,andthechildrenrunabout.Somehavebeentomass,andsomehavenot,butallareinthespiritofenjoyment.NothingcanbemoreenliveningthantheaspectoftheFrenchpeople.Youcannotresisttheircheerfullooks.TheappearanceofthePlace

Vendomeistrulyenchanting.

Nowletusgodown,andtakeanearerlookatwhatisgoingonbelow.Atthefootofthecolumnyouwillseeagroupofchildrencollectedroundamanwithalargebasketoflittletincarriageswhichareconstructedinsuchawaythattheywillgowiththewindonasmoothplace.Forsomedistanceroundthecolumnislaidtheasphaltumpavement.Theselittletincarriagesrunwellacrossthiswideplatform;andyoumightimaginethatthetinhorsescarriedthem.Itisapleasantthingtoseethedelightofthechildren,and


22/27

alessoningoodnatureandgoodmanners,toseehowcarefullyallthepassersbyturnaside,soasnottointerrupttheprogressoftheseprettytoys.

Lookupatthebeautifulbasreliefsinbronze,onthisnoblecolumn,givingthehistoryofsomanyfiercebattlesandsomuchbloodshed,andatthemilitaryheroonthetop,andthenattheselaughing,merrychildrenatthefoot,runningafterthetincarriagesthatgowiththewind.Isitnotastrangeandmovingcontrast?Doesitnottellastorythatallofushopemaybeonedaytrue;whenwarshallbelongonlytohistory,andwhenpeaceshallpossesstheearth?

AroundthebaseofthisbeautifulcolumnmanyofthosewhoservedunderBonaparte,orwhorememberhimwithaffection,hangwreathsandgarlandsasexpressionsoftheirtenderremembrance.Thisisstilldone;thesememorialsareeverthere.Atonetimethiswasforbiddenbythegovernment,buttonopurpose.Atlast,anofficerwasstationedatthefootofthecolumnwithawaterengine,andwithorderstoplayituponanyonewhoshouldbringanyvotiveofferingstothefallenhero.Alady,whoseloveandadmirationcouldnotbesointimidated,camethenextdayinhercarriage,whichshefilledwithwreathsofflowers,andstoodupinit,andthrewwreathafterwreathatthefootofthecolumn,cryingout,as

eachonefell,"Willyouplayyourengineuponme?"Butnotadropofwaterwassentather,andshedepositedallherofferings,andwentawayunharmed.IsupposeaFrenchmanwouldsoonerhavebeenshotthanhavedoneanythingtoquenchtheenthusiasmofthisheroicwoman.

OnethingstruckmemuchinParis,andmostagreeably,andthatisthegoodappearanceofthechildren.Thisisnotconfinedtotherich;youwillseeaverypoorwomanleadingherchild,reallywelldressed.Youneverseeboysidlinginthestreets;youneverhearthemswearingandquarrelling.Ifyouaskaboytoshowyoutheway,hismannerofdoingitwouldgraceadrawingroom.IamtoldthattheFrenchareneverseverewiththeirchildren;thattheFrench

naturewillnotbearit;thatstrongexcitementmakesthechildrenill;thatthelawofloveistheonlyonetheywillbear.

Stopwithmenowonourwalk,atthislittlelowcart,justbythesidewalk;itisasyouseelargerthanacommonhandcart,andmuchlower,andonfoursmallwheels;itisfullofchina,allmarked13sous.Seehowprettythesecupsandsaucersare.Afteryourlookingatallthepieces,theownerwouldsay,"Bonjour"verykindlytoyou,ifyoutooknothing,butwewilltakethisprettycupandsaucer;asaremembranceofhislittlecart.Aswewalkalong,weshallseemanyothers,containingeverythingyoucanimagine.

Iboughtmanythingsinthestreets,--combs,saucepans,clothes-

brushes,&c.Lookintothisshopwindow;seetheselovelyflowers,and,inthemidstofthem,asmallfountainisplayingallthetimetokeepthemfresh.Lookatthoseimmensebunchesinthewindows,--ofpansies,violets,hyacinthsofallcolors,ixias,wallflowers,tulips,geraniums,narcissus;andO,thisisnothalfthevarietyofflowers!lookintotheshop;therearebushelsofthemandotherflowers,allrangedroundthewall;theperfumesalutesthemostinsensiblepasser-by;ittellsofthesongsofbirds,andofthedelightsofsummertime.Youcannotresistitsinfluence.Letusgoinandlookattheflowers.Thepersonwhokeepstheshophasthe


23/27

mannersofalady;shewishesyougoodmorning;and,ifyoudonotbehavejustasyouwouldifyouenteredalady'sparlor,youaresetdownasanAmericanorEnglishman,whodoesnotknowhowtobehave.Whenyouleavetheshopalso,youmustremembertosay,"Bonjour,"oryoucommitanoffence.Howkindlytheladywhokeepsthisflowershopshowsusallherflowers!howsheseemstolovethem,asiftheywereherchildren!Wemustgetabouquettoshowourgratitudeforherkindness,thoughshewouldnotdemandit.Ateverystreetcornerisawomanwithabasketofvioletsandevergreens.Sheofferstheminsuchaprettyway,takingcarethatyoushalltaketheirperfume.Youcannotresistthem.

Now,supposeweweretakingawalk,someothermorning.Beforeusisthe"PlacedelaConcorde,"allglisteninginthespringsunlight.See,there,inthecentre,istheObelisk--amonumentofthetimeofSesostris,KingofEgypt,erectedbyhimbeforethegreattempleofThebesmorethanthreethousandyearsago,orfifteenhundredandfiftyyearsbeforeChrist.Thisenormousstone,allofonepiece,seventy-twofeethigh,sevenfeetandahalfsquareatthebase,ofredgranite,andcoveredwithhieroglyphicinscriptions,wasgiventotheFrenchgovernmentbytheViceroyofEgypt,inconsiderationofanarmedandnavalestablishmentwhichthatgovernmenthadhelpedhimtoformatAlexandria.EighthundredmenstruggledforthreemonthsinEgypt,inthemidstofallmannerofhardships,buildinga

roadandconstructingmachinerytodragtheobelisk,completelycasedinwood,downtotheNile.Itcosttwomillionsoffrancstoplacethismonumentwhereitnowstands.ThiswasdonewithgreatpompandceremonyinOctober,1836,theroyalfamilyandaboutahundredandfiftythousandotherpeoplelookingon.

NowtrytoplaceyourselfinimaginationatthefootofthisgreatObeliskofLuxor,mountedupasitisuponasingleblockofgraygraniteofFrance,coveredalloverwithgildedengravingofthemachineryusedinplacingthegreatthingwhereitis.ThePlacedelaConcordeitself,whichsurroundsyou,iseightsided;andiftheexcavationsarounditwerefilledwithwater,itwouldbeanisland,sevenhundredfeetorsoacross,andconnectedwiththemainlandby

fourelegantlittlebridges.Butinsteadofwater,these"diggings"arebeautifullyfilledwithflowergardens.Attheeightcornersoftheislandareeightpavilions,astheyarecalled;orgreatwatchhouses,ofelegantarchitecture,occupiedbythemilitaryorthepolice,asoccasionrequires.Eachoftheseformsthebaseofagiganticstatue,representingoneoftheprincipalcitiesofFrance.ItisasifthewholeeightweresittinginfriendlycouncilforthegoodofParis.Howbeautifultheyare,withtheirgrandexpressionlessfaces,andtheirgracefulattitudes,andtheirsimpleantiquedrapery.Theyareallsittingintheirmuralcrowns,--thefortifiedcitiesoncannons,thecommercialonesonbalesofgoods.Strasburgaloneseemsfulloflife.Shehasherarmakimbo,asifbravingGermany,towhichsheoncebelonged.Look,northfromthe

Obelisk,uptheRuedelaConcorde,andthesplendidchurchoftheMadeleineboundsyoursight.OnyourrightaretheGardensoftheTuilleries;onyourleftaretheChampsElysees;behindyouistheChamberofDeputies.Bothbeforeandbehindyou,inthePlaceitself,youhaveasplendidfountain,eachbeingaroundbasin,fiftyfeetindiameter,inwhichstandsasmallerbasin,withastillsmalleraboveit,supportedandsurroundedbybronzefiguresofrivers,seas,geniioffruits,flowers,andfisheries,andallmannerofgodsofcommerceandnavigation,allspoutingwaterlikemad.


24/27

SeethefamousmarblehorsesfromMarly.Howimpatienttheylooktobreakawayfromtheathleticarmwhichholdsthem!whatlifeandspirittheyshow!howbeautifultheyare!TakeonelooknowattheArcdeTriomphe;itisnearlytwomilesoff,butlooksverynear.Nowturn;anddirectlyopposite,atsomedistance,youseewhatJamesLowellcallsthe"FrontdooroftheTuilleries."

Thegardensarefullofbeautifulchildren.Theirmothersornursesaresittingunderthetrees,whilethechildrenrunaboutatwill.Therearethousandsplayingatball,drivinghoops,jumpingropes,shouting,laughing,merryaschildrenwillbeandoughttobe.

LetustakeastrollintheChampsElysees.Youhaveneverseenanythingsobeautiful,socaptivating,asthescene.Itseemslikeenchantment.Alltheworldishere--youngandold,poorandrich,fashionableandunfashionable.Allfortheiramusement.Letusseewhatthisgrouparelookingatsoearnestly.Anumberofwoodenponiesarewheeledroundandround,andeachhasarosy-cheekedboyuponit.Hereisanotherinwhichtheygoinboats;anotherinchairs.Thisamusementcostsonlytwoorthreesousapiecetothechildren.Theparentsorthenursesstandaroundenjoyingitalmostasmuchasthechildren.Letuswalkon.Seethatlittlefountaingleamingthroughthetendergreenoftheyoungleavesasyousee

themintheprettywoodthatformsabackgroundtothepicture.Allalongintheroadyouobservefineequipagesofallsortsstandinginwaiting,whilethegayworld,orthepoorinvalidswhomtheybroughttothisplaceofenchantment,arewalkingaboutorsittinginchairs,courtinghealthandamusement.Hereissomethingstillprettierthananythingyouhaveseen--abeautifullittlecarriagethatcanholdfourchildrenandadriver,drawnbyfourwhitegoats,withblackhornsandbeards.

TheFrencharepeculiarlykindtoanimals.NolawisnecessaryinFrancefortheprotectionofanimalsfromthecrueltyoftheirmasters.Youmeetmenandwomen,veryrespectablydressed,leadingdogswiththegreatestcare;andinthefashionabledrives,every

tenthcarriage(itseemedtome)hadadoglyingontheseat,orstandingonhishindlegs,lookingoutofthewindow.Afriendtoldmethat,whenpresentatagrandreviewwheretherewasagreatcrowd,shesawawoman,whocouldnotgetnearenoughtoseetheshow,holdupherdogovertheheadsofthepeople,thathemightatleasthavethepleasureofseeingwhatwasgoingon.

Imusttellyouabouttheceremonyofmakinganarchbishop,whichwehadthegoodfortunetowitness.IttookplaceatNotreDame.

Thenaveofthechurchwasfull.Aroundthealtar,allthepriestsanddignitariesofthechurchwereseated;theofficiatingarchbishopinahighseat,andanemptychairbyhissideforthe

newarchbishopwhenfinishedandpreparedforthehonor.Allthepriestswereinfulldress.Theirgarmentswerestiffwithgoldandsilver.Myeyesweredazzledwiththeirsplendor.

Perfectsilenceprevailed,andtheceremonycommenced.Thepriest,whowastobemadeintoabishop,hadallsortsofthingsdonetohim.Heknelt,heprayed,hewasprayedover,hewasreadto,hehadhandslaiduponhim,hewascrossed;incensewasthrownup,theorganplayed,andallthepriestsandbishopskneltandrosefromtheirknees,andkneltandroseagain,andagain;highmasswas


25/27

said,andtheshowwasveryremarkable.

Oncethepoormortal,whowastobeconsecrated,knelt,andalargebookwasputuponhim,likeasaddle.Finallytheytookhimandtiednapkinsuponhisarmsandhisneck,andthenledhimtoaknotofpriestsalittleoutofmysight.Inafewmoments,hereappearedwithallhiscanonicalson,exceptthemitre.Nowhewasbrilliantindeed,loadedwithgoldornaments,stiffwithsplendor.Hisface,Inoticed,wasveryred,andhelookedweary.Ididnotquiteunderstandthetumbledtowels;whethertheseweretocatchtheconsecratingoilthattheypouredonhishead,orwhethertheywereemblematicofthefilthyragsofthisworld,whichhelaidasideforthenewandshininggarmentsofperfectholiness,Icouldnotfindout.Nowthenewarchbishopkneltagainbeforetheoldarchbishop,andtheoldoneputthemitreupontheheadofthenewone.Thentheoldarchbishopembracedandkissedthenew,andafterthatalltheotherbishops,who,astheFrenchsay,assistedattheceremony,performedthesameactonbothsidesofhisface.Afterthis,thenewarchbishopandhisholybrotherwalkedsidebyside,followedbyalltheotherbishopsandpriests,downfromthealtaramongtheaudience;andthenewdignitarygavehisblessingtoallthepeople.

IwishIcouldcarryyouwithmetothepalaceatVersailles.ThemagnificentequestrianstatueofLouisXIV.,whichyoucanseeafar

offasyouapproach,thenoblestatuesinthegrandcourtyard,andtheancientregalaspectofthewholescene,withitscountlessfountainsanditssevenmilesofpictures,arebeyondalldescription.AsIstoodlostinwonderandadmiration,myfriend,whointroducedmetothisworldofwonders,pointedtoawindowinonecornerofthebuilding;there,shesaid,LouisXVI.passedmuchofhistimemakinglocks;andthere,fromthatbalcony,MarieAntoinetteappearedwithherchildrenandtheking,whensheaddressedthewild,enragedParisianmob.Wesawtheprivateapartmentsoftheunhappyqueen,andthesmalldoorthroughwhichsheescapedfromthefuryofthesoldiers.WewenttoseethelittleTrianonwhichshehadbuiltforheramusement;alovelyplaceitis.Hereshetriedtoputasidestateandthequeen,andbeahappy

humanbeing.

HereMarieAntoinettehadalaiterie,amilkhouse,wheresheissaidtohavemadebutterandcheese.HereshecausedtobebuilttwelvecottagesaftertheSwissfashion,andfilledthemwithpoorfamilieswhomshetriedtomakehappy.

Wewentintoherdairy.Itwasfitforaqueentomakebutterin.Inthecentreofthebeautifullyshapedroomwasalargeoblong,whitemarbletable;oneachsidewereplacesforadmittingthewater,andunderthembeautifulmarblereservoirsintheshapeofshells,and,underneath,largeslabsofwhitemarble.Allisstill,allsochaste,sobeautiful,allasitoncewas,andshe,thepoor

sufferer,whatastoryofblightedhopeandbittersorrow!Seeherthenightbeforehertrial,whichsheknewwouldendindeath,mendingherownoldshoes,thatshemightappearmoredecently.Thesolemnrealitiesoflifehadcometoherunsought.

IleftParisandtravelledthroughBelgiumtoCologne.ThedayIarrivedwassomeholiday;sotherewasgrandmassinthecathedral,andsuchmusic!--theimmensebuildingwasfilledwiththesound.Thefullorganwasplayed,andsomeofthepriestsingerstookpart.Neverdidmusicsoovercomeme.Thesublimepiece,--asIthoughtof


26/27

Beethoven's,surelyofsomegreatcomposer,--performedinthisgloriousoldcathedral,wasbeyondallthatIhadeverdreamtof.ItseemstomethatImightthinkofitagaininmydyinghourwithdelight.Ifeltasifitcreatedanewsoulinme.Suchgushesofsweetsound,suchjoyfulfulnessofmelody,suchtenderbreathingsofhope,andlove,andpeace,andthensuchfloodsofharmonyfillingallthosesublimearches,ascendingtothefardistantroofandrunningalongthroughthedimaisles--O,onemusthear,tohaveanideaoftheeffectofsuchmusicinsuchaplace.

AtBonnwetookthesteamer;thedaywasperfect,andourpleasurewasfull.Youmustseeoneofthesefineoldcastlesonthetopofthebeautifulhills--youmustyourselfseetheblueskythroughitsruinedarches--youmustseethevinescoveringeveryinchofthemountainthatisnotsolidrock,andwitnessthelovelyeffectofthegrayrockminglingwiththetendergreen--youmusthearthewildlegendoftheownerofthecastleinhisdayofpower,andfeelthepassageoftimeandcivilizationthathaschangedhisfastnessofstrengthandrapinetoabeautifuladornmentofthissceneofpeaceandplenty,itsgloriesallhumbled,itsterrorsallpassedaway,anditsgreatandonlyvaluethepartitplaysinapicture,andthelessonitpreaches,initsdecay,oftheprogressofjusticeandhumanity.

FromCoblentztoBingenisthegloryoftheRhinescenery;oldcastleslookingdownovertheselovelyhillscoveredwithvinesandcornfields;littlevillagesnestledinbetweenthem;beautifulspiresoftheprettiestchurchesyoucanimagine,lookingasiftheygatheredthehousesofthevillagesundertheirprotectingwings.Yoursoul,inshort,isfullofunutterabledelight.ItwasasortofrelieftolaughatthelegendaswepassedthelittleislandonwhichistheMouseTower,sonamedfromthehistoryofBishopHatto,whoitissaidwaseatenupbyratsbecauseherefusedcorninatimeofscarcitytothestarvingpoor,whenhehadaplentyrottinginhisstorehouses.

WhenIwasobligedatlasttoturnawayfromalltheseglories,the

wordsofByronwereinmyheart:--

*****

Adieutotheeagain;avainadieu;Therecanbenofarewelltosceneslikethine.Themindiscoloredbythyeveryhue,AndifreluctantlytheeyesresignTheircherishedgazeuponthee,lovelyRhine,'Tiswiththethankfulglanceofpartingpraise.Moremightyspotsmayrise,moreglaringshine,ButnoneuniteinoneattractingmazeThebrilliant,fair,andsoft,thegloriesofolddays,

Thenegligentlygrand,thefruitfulbloomOfsummerripeness,thewhitecities'sheen,Therollingstream,theprecipice'sgloom,Theforest'sgrowth,andGothicwallsbetweenThewildrocksshapedastheyhadturretsbeen,Inmockeryofman'sart."


27/27

EndProjectGutenbergEtextofTravellers'Stories,byElizaLeeFollen

travellers' stories by follen, eliza lee cabot, 1787-1860

Documents