MADE to MEASURE

SEvEn STEPS to a perfect fiT

TAiloRESS TiPS on fitting

21

Editor’s

lETTER

Craftsmanship, creativity, fit expertise, heritage and fantastic quality – these are just some of the ways Triumph has been described throughout its rich history, but what does that mean for you?

It means we invest in creating the most perfectly fitting lingerie, knowing not only our product inside out but also our consumer, their bodies, breasts, needs, wants and everything in between. At Triumph we understand that the role of lingerie is not just supporting in the general bra fitting sense, the right set of lingerie can create not only ultimate curves but ultimate confidence too.

After all what woman doesn’t feel great in perfectly fitting, beautiful lingerie?

Within this guide you’ll find everything you need to underpin your customer’s silhouette and style needs, from helpful hints to in depth training this ‘Made to Measure’ manual offers it all and I’m positive it will guide you through providing the perfect fitting experience.

Monica HarringtonTriumph ‘The Maker of Lingerie Since 1886’

AnAToMYof the BREAST

PUTTing on the BRA

Specialist

fiTTing

“ThE BRA DoESn’T fiT – What Went Wrong?”

Teenage 25 & 26

Pre Natal 27

Pregnancy 27

Nursing 27 & 28Breast Implant & Breast Reduction 29 & 30

Concave Chests 32

3 & 4

15 & 16

19 & 20

From 25

SEvEn STEPS to a perfect fiT

18

Cover Stories:

TAiloRESS TiPS

Throughout

MADE to MEASUREfeatures

43

Normally between the shoulder and elbow, the breast starts with two muscles; the pectoralis major and minor, covering the ribs and helping controlling arm movements. Fibrous strands called Cooper’s ligaments bond the skin and breast tissue to the chest, keeping everything in place.

Lobes of mammary glands are spread out like tree branches beneath the delicate glandular tissue, separated by layers of fat, making breasts soft.

A myriad of microscopic cells convert substances from the blood into milk in the acini or alveoli. These lead to larger lobules, leading into the main ducts which open up into the nipple. Between the nipple and the breast tissue these ducts enlarge to form flasks called lactiferous sinuses where milk collects if breastfeeding.

AnAToMYof the BREAST

The circle of skin that surrounds the nipple is called the areola, which often varies in colour and may also contain multiple openings; some milk ducts, others are oil producing Montgomery glands to lubricate the skin. Both nipple and areola have a particularly rich supply of nerve endings and blood vessels.

Made up of fats, tissues and glands, the breast has no muscles in to help hold its shape. To help give support to the bust, it’s become almost essential to be equipped with a well-fitting bra.

Petoralis minor muscle

Rib bonePectoralis major muscle

Mammary lobules

Nipple

Areola

Cross-section of the breastLymphatic overview

Axillary lymph node

Breast tissue

Subclavicular lymph node

External mammary lymph node

Internal mammary lymph node

Subclavicular lymph node

65

Measuring and fitting consumers is key to make sure they’re wearing the correct size, are comfortable and above all happy with their bra. This is the stepping stone to ensure she’s happy with her purchase, there’ll be no need to return the product and she’ll want to return to you in the future.

Do you know if this is the first time she’s been fitted? Or is she embarrassed about undressing in front of a stranger? There are many reasons why consumers may feel uncomfortable getting fitted. Make sure you put her at ease by talking through what styles she likes and ensuring the garment fits her correctly.

SETTing the SCEnE

The

MiRRoRRooM

This is the only place the tape measure should be used because it’s private and discreet so she’ll be able to undress and you can assess her size correctly. Always take your customer to the fitting room. Be careful how you ask her to remove her clothing.

“Would you mind just slipping your top off while I fetch my tape measure” is far more acceptable than “You get undressed and I’ll be back with my tape

measure”. Make sure you leave your customer to undress on her own; she will feel far more comfortable.

When you return she should be in her bra which is easier to measure in, especially if the customer is embarrassed or has a very large bust. In the fitting room you will also have the use of the mirror and once she has tried on the correct fitting bra, she’ll be far more likely to buy.

Underpinning Your Consumers Style

Before the customer enters the fitting room get to know her –

• What clothes does she wear?

• What style does she like – strapless, underwired, balconette?

• What does she find comfortable – cotton bras, microfibre, lace?

• Any problems with previous bras?

• Has she lost or gained weight?

Tailoress TipsRemember the Mirror Room should have:

• Sufficient room

• Mirror

• Chair for the customer to sit or place her clothes on

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Measuring is a guide! Different styles may vary in fitting, and because no two people are the same it may be necessary to try a couple of sizes in order to determine which is the best for her and also more than one style, to see which suits her best.

The

TAPE MEASURE

Bra:• Underbust• Bra size and shape• Checking the fit• Putting on the bra• If the bra doesn’t fit, what went wrong?

Brief:• Waist• Hips• Shape of brief

Underbust (taken in centimetres)The consumer stands with her back to the mirror, facing you, so you can see right around her during the measure.

Place the tape measure in the centre of your customers back, aim for the spot where her bra should sit, this will allow you to measure around her body in a straight line.

Make sure your fingers are behind the tape and your thumbs are on top of the tape so you avoid digging fingers into her breasts. Allow the tape to come around her body, in a straight line and meet between her breasts.

Tailoress Tips• If her frame is of average size – hold the tape measure at 40 cms

• If her frame is of small size – hold the tape measure at 35 cms

• If her frame is of large size – hold the tape measure at 45 cms

Tailoress Tips• Keep the tape firm, don’t let it slip. Check in the mirror to make sure the tape is in the correct position on the customer’s back.

• When you’ve noted the measurement, hand the tape back to yourself around your customer’s back. Whipping it away risks catching her with the tape – or worse the metal end of the tape!

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Tailoress Tip• Remember the measurement is only a guide, sometimes you may want your customer to try on a couple of underband sizes to get the fit just right.

What size

BRA?Deciding what size bra your customer needs does get easier with experience. The first stage is to use the underbust measurement to decide on the correct underband size.

To determine the underband size, round up or down to the nearest multiple of five, i.e. 70, 75, 80 etc. For instance, if the customer measures 76 or 77 cms you would round to 75, but if she measures 78 cms you would round up to 80.

From Metric Size To > Imperial Size

68cm 70 72cm > 32

73cm 75 77cm > 34

78cm 80 82cm > 36

83cm 85 87cm > 38

88cm 90 92cm > 40

93cm 95 97cm > 42

98cm 100 102cm > 44

103cm 105 107cm > 46

To establish the cup size we do not take a measurement, because this is a rather delicate area. So much will depend on the style of the bra, the type of flesh, either soft or firm, and also the extent of the breast at the sides. For these reasons, it is necessary to estimate the cup size.

This is not easy to do at first, but again, the more you do it, the easier it becomes. Please bear in mind that AA

and A cups are really very small and F, G and H cups are very full. It will often be necessary to try two cup sizes in order to decide which is the best fit.

This is where product knowledge comes into play. Anyone can learn to use a tape measure but the skill in fitting is being able to tell if the bra fits correctly and, if it doesn’t, being able to recognise what is wrong and how to put it right.

Tailoress TipWhen taking the under bust measurement ask the customer to lift or cup her breasts. Assess the cup size by asking the customer the size she was wearing; if she is spilling over the top of the cup or the wire is digging into the sides of the breast then increase the cup size.

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32H 34G 36F

32G 34F 36E

32F 34E 36DD

32E 34DD 36D

32DD 34D 36C

32D 34C 36B

32C 34B 36A

32B 34A 36AA

If you have gone down on the under-band size, you may need to increase the bra by two or three cup sizes. (E.g. Often a customer will increase the under-band of her bra to give herself more space in the cup, when really all she needs to do is increase her cup fitting. You may find the customer will come in to be fitted in a size 40B and leave wearing a 36DD).

Tailoress TipsIf your customer is wearing a 40B / 90B when she comes into the changing room but when you measure her she’s infact 75cm / 34in you’ll need to work out what her underband size is now. In this case, she’s gone from a 34 to a 40 underband – an increase of 3 sizes, which means you’ll need to increase her cup size by 3 sizes too.

This means she should be a 34DD.

You should start with a DD but if this

is too small try an E or if it’s too big try going down to a D.

If she’s unsure of the size she’s wearing but the label size has perhaps worn off on her bra, firstly do the underbust measurement. Check her bra – is it too big or too small? Think of your own size – or even the models from training day – does she look bigger or smaller? This may help you get an idea of what cup size she may be.

Cheat sheet: example of underband & cup size fluctuations.

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• 40 pieces without thread or care label• 15 different materials, excluding thread• 14.15 minutes to sew

Features of a

BRAProduct Knowledge • Fit – Remember that different styles sometimes fit differently when looking at different product lines, even by the same brand

• Fabrics – Different fabrics can change the fit and look of a bra

• Function – Some bras have added features and benefits – get to know them all.

Here are just a few of the bra shapes which may suit your customer:

The Balconette

3 SectionThe Bandeau

The Minimizer

The Non-Wired The Padded

The Push-Up

The Wired

Wires

Eye Hook

Wings

Cups

Lining Centre Front

Cup lace StrapAdjustor

Deconstructed bra

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PUTTing on the BRA

Stage Instruction Key Points

Prepare the garment. Unfasten the bra.

Lengthen the straps to the longest position.

Making it easier for the customer to get into the bra.

Preparing the customer

to put on the bra.

Ensure your customer has her top off and

she is standing facing the mirror.

Stand behind the customer to enable you to take control

of the fitting.

Putting the garment on. Pass the bra to the customer asking her to

lean forward while putting the bra on.

This will mean her breasts will fall into the cups in the

correct position.

Ask the customer to stand up straight leav-

ing the bra open.

This will enable you to take hold of the bra on either side

gathering the wings (sides and back of the bra) and fasten

the hooks on the first or outside row of hooks.

Check the position of the bra. Using the mirror to check that the customer is in the bra.

The breasts should be fully contained within each cup.

Stage Instruction Key Points

Making the adjustments and

checking the fit of the bra.

Adjust the shoulder straps.

Remove one strap off the shoulder on to the

arm and make the adjustment and return to

the shoulder and repeat the procedure on

the other side.

This will avoid letting go of the strap on to the shoulder

perhaps causing her some distress.

The breasts may vary slightly in size or

shape which is perfectly natural so you may

need to adjust the straps differently on

either shoulder.

The straps should only be adjusted until you feel the breast

is supported into its natural position which is between the

shoulder and the elbow.

Check the underband of the bra

(the fit around the body).

It should lie flat against the body in a straight line

horizontally and not stand away from the body.

Stand behind your customer and make sure

the frame of the bra is neither too loose nor

too tight using the back of your middle and

index fingers.

If the underband is too tight it will dig in causing the

flesh to bulge underneath. Too loose on the underband

will cause the bra to ride up at the back.

Check that the cups of the bra fit correctly

and the breasts are not bulging out of

the bra.

The bridge piece which is the centre front of the bra be-

tween the breasts should lie flat against the body giving

good separation of the breast. Gaping at the sides of the

bra means the cup is too small. If the cup wrinkles it shows

that the cup is too large.

If the garment is under wired check the fit

of the under wire.

Any under wiring must fit flat against the body and go right

around the contour of the breast and sit behind it.

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Tailoress Tips• Check this is the right style for your customers shape, it should look great on as well as under her clothes – the key to underpinning her look

1 The band around the bra needs to be firm but comfortable.

2Ensure the back of the bra is in line with the front of the bra and is fastened on the loosest hook.

3The cups should not come too high underneath the arms as this may cause rubbing and discomfort during wear.

4The whole of the breast should fit neatly into the cup, with no excess flesh behind the cup or over the top of it.

5Wires and boning must lie flat against the body and go right around the contour of the breast.

6The centre front of the bra between the breasts should lie flat against the body.

7

Straps must only be adjusted until you feel the breast is supported into its natural position, usually half way between the shoulder and the elbow

SEvEn STEPS to a perfect fiT

2019

Let me give you a couple of examples:• The cup size in a 36C will be more or less the same size as a 34D but the frame will be approximately 2 inches larger.

• The cup size in a 36C will be larger than a size 34C, and the frame will again be about 2 inches larger.

• The cup size in a 36C will be larger than a 36B, but the frame size will be about the same.

Understanding and using this information will enable you to be flexible when you are fitting and help you to achieve a perfect fit.

So, having done all the checks to see if the fit of the bra is correct, you must know what to recommend if indeed something is not quite right. Let’s look at some of the most common mistakes made, particularly by the customers themselves.

Frame size OK, breast popping over the top of the cup:• Cup too small; go up a cup size, same frame size

Frame size OK, breast not fully in the cup at sides and cut too shallow below arms:• Cup too small; go up a cup size, same frame size.

Frame size OK, underband curling up or standing away from the body:• Cup probably too small, go up a cup size, same frame size.

Too loose around, cup size OK:• Need a smaller frame size, but also go up a cup size to get same cup fitting.

Too tight around, cup size slightly too small:• Need a larger frame size, same cup size.

Frame size OK, space underneath cup or across top of cup, or coming too high under arms: • Same frame size, smaller cup.

“ThE BRA DoESn’T fiT – What Went Wrong?”

Tailoress Tips• Sometimes a bra does not fit well because it simply does not give enough support to a very soft or pendulous breast.

• Every style will not suit every customer. Remember, we are all made differently, and if we were all the same there would be no need for so many different styles.

Tailoress TipsThere are two facts you should know which will help you to understand the points below more clearly.

As the cup size increases on any frame size, the frame size does not alter, however, as the frame size increases, the cup size will also become proportionally larger.

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Waist:• Ask the customer to undress and stand with her back to the mirror.

• Hold the tape measure in your right hand and pass it to yourself behind the customer and place it on her waist.

• If you are unsure where exactly her waist is, ask her to bend to one side, and the crease where she bends will denote her waist. PLEASE NOTE this may not be where her briefs finish!

• Measure around her waist, finishing at the centre front.

ShAPEWEARMany shapewear products are now available in women’s dress sizes. If your customer doesn’t know her dress size and you need to measure her waist and hips, here are some tips.

There are two facts you should know which will help you to understand the following points more clearly.

As the cup size increases or decreases in any frame size, the frame size does not alter, however, as the frame size increases, the cup size will also become proportionally larger or smaller.

Hips:• Pass it into your left hand, behind the customers’ back and bring your hands to her sides, just below her waist. Slide the tape gently over her bottom until you find the fullest part.

• Bring your right hand across the front of her body, onto her right thigh and bring your left had to meet it. You will take the measurement across her right thigh, not in the front.

• If the customer carries weight on her thighs bring the tape across the fullest part. This will probably mean that the tape dips at the front and is not around her body in a straight line.

Hips

Waist

2423

Corselettes & BodyshapersGarments are sold by bust size but measure for a bra (underbust and take the hip measurement as well.) The waist size is less important in all in one garments. Use the chart provided to establish the customers’ size. Once again, if one of the measurements is larger by proportion than the other, use the larger fitting. You must not try to squash your customer into a size that is too small for her.

Tailoress Tip• Always get her to try on her shapewear and prompt her to step into the garment.

Too long, too short, too loose or too smallIn addition to having a good fitting bra, the correct body length of a corselette or bodyshaper is also very important. The base of the cup should fit right underneath the root of your customer’s breast if the garment is long enough, and there should not be any folding or wrinkling of the fabric around her waist, indicating that the garment is too long. It is important that you know how much support you can expect to get from any particular garment. Only then can you decide if the garment is fitting correctly.

Tailoress Tips• No garment should be too tight around the waist, hips or thighs. The idea that it will give support I am afraid is only a myth. Any garments which are too large will not do the job for which they are intended.

• A customer may be inclined to think a garment is too big because it is not holding her in enough when in fact the fit is fine but the garment is designed only to give light support.

• Similarly, she may feel it is too tight and restrictive when really a lighter garment would be the best solution not a larger size.

• Always ask the customer to sit down when she has a garment on as this is when she is at her fullest and will determine if the garment is comfortable.

Dress Size Bust Waist Hips

10 32 24 34

12 34 26 36

14 36 28 38

16 38 30 40

18 40 32 42

20 42 34 44

22 44 36 46

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TeenageA little swelling under the nipple is usually how the breasts begin to develop. One breast usually starts developing before the other. This growth is called Differential Development and as the female reaches the age of 20 or so, her breasts will even out to be nearly the same size or the same size.

Non-wired bras should be recommended during this period as the breasts are still developing, this will avoid any discomfort.

Measure and fit in exactly the same way as other customers, perhaps measuring over a T-shirt, if she is particularly shy. In order to allow for further growth the bra can be fitted on the tightest row of hooks.

Every woman is different and no two breasts are exactly the same. Breasts come in many varieties, large, medium, small, flat, round, full and nipples vary in size and colour. Many women are sensitive about the shape and size of their breasts.

Anything being wrong with the breast, even if it is minor can affect a woman emotionally, as well as physically. No two women will react in the same way. So, it is important to have the knowledge and confidence to fit the customers who have particular problems.

Specialist

fiTTing

Tailoress TipsIf the teenager insists on wearing an underwire bra, suggest a non-wired style for school and something underwired for the weekend.

2827

Nursing BrasA Nursing Bra should be purchased 3 or 4 weeks before the baby is due, no earlier in order to recommend the best size. Remember the frame size will reduce after the birth, so the bra can be quite firm, so you may need to reduce the underband in size. The breast will increase, so as a guide make sure the bra is about two cup sizes larger.

Nursing BrasTailoress Tips

Ask your customer to place a fist inside her bra, this will be a good indication if the bra cup is large enough.

Many women develop fine cracks and tender areas on their nipples, during the first few weeks of breast-feeding. These cracks are most often a result of the baby not taking the whole nipple into his or her mouth properly when feeding. So, it is important to recommend a comfortable fabric to the customer i.e. cotton.

Pre Natal BrasIt is important to fit a bra, which gives enough support, depending on her size, but once again avoiding under-wired bras as the breast will change shape throughout her pregnancy. Measure and fit in the same way as for other customers, but again you fit a pre natal on the tightest row of hooks to allow for further increase in size. A specialist pre natal bra is not necessary.

PregnancyDuring pregnancy a woman’s breast will increase in size sometimes quite dramatically, as milk producing cells multiply and the system of ducts expands. The nipples get darker in colour and the blood vessels become more prominent. These changes take place due to various hormones a woman produces while she is pregnant.

3029

Breast Implant SurgeryBreast Implant Surgery (Breast Augmentation) is the only method of making the breast larger. The implant is placed behind the breast tissue, between it and the chest wall muscle; this allows the woman to breast feed at a later stage if she wishes to.

The implants come in a variety of sizes, so a correct size implant can be used for both breasts to look similar.

There is a scar in the crease line under the breast, which gradually fades over time. The woman may feel some discomfort after the operation. The breasts may be more uneven than normal and the nipples may not be level.

Tailoress TipsAs with breast implants, a good supporting bra with a comfortable fabric should be recommended following surgery.

• Once the scaring has healed and the swelling has gone down under-wired bras can be worn.

• Do not recommend underwired styles until the breast has completed healed and all swelling has gone down.

Chest wall muscle

Breast Implant

Before Implants

Breast ReductionLarge breasts can cause backache and sometimes a drooping posture. Often the only solution can be a breast reduction.

Breast reduction is an operation where the excess fat and skin are removed from the breasts. The breasts are then reshaped to form smaller breasts and the nipples are repositioned. The nipples sometimes are positioned above the centre of the breast after surgery causing problems when fitting certain styles.

The customer may have some scars around the nipple and in the crease line under the breasts; these scars usually take a year to fade. The breasts can be swollen for sometime after surgery.

Breast Implant

Subglandular placement Submuscular placement

3231

Benign Breast DiseaseThis term covers breast pain, cystic conditions, fibroadenoma and mastitis. Many women suffer from breast pain; it is most common in the days leading up to a period.

Fibro adenomasIs a benign breast lump made up of a collection of fibrous and glandour tissue. They account for six out of ten lumps found in women under the age of 30 years and four out of ten in women

between the ages of 20 and 30. They become less common in later life.

Cystic ConditionsBreast Cysts are fluid filled lobules, which can form as the breast tissue ages. They are especially common in the years before the Menopause.

MastitisIs the inflammation of the breast often caused by an infection. Usually it occurs in breast feeding mothers, although it can affect women of any age.

Concave-ChestThis type of breast can be difficult to fit, as the bridge piece of the bra at the centre front will not sit against the chest wall.

Tailoress TipsThe type of bra you can offer the customer who is suffering from any of the above will depend on the level of support the customer needs. A non-wired bra in a breathable fabric would be most suitable.

Pendulous BustThis is when the customer’s breast is very low and there is too much space at the top of the cup. Fit the customer in a balconette style bra, as this style of bra is shallow on the top of the cup. If the customer prefers to wear a full cup bra and there is usually a lot of space at the top of the cup. It is best to fit the customer in a bra that has a non-transparent cup.

Tailoress Tip• A non-wired bra is usually a better option. If the customer insists on a wired bra, check the under-wire is not digging into the breast at the centre front.

3433

Variation of Breast SizeMost customers are slightly larger on one side than the other, but on some occasions you may find a customer one or two cup sizes bigger.

Tailoress Tips• Always fit the larger side, as the customer needs to feel comfortable.

• Breast enhancers can also be used on the smaller side.

Tailoress Tip• If the customer is bigger, she usually has a lot of excess flesh so you may find the measurement you get on the tape will be more than what the customer actually fits. e.g. If the customer is measuring 105cms/46inches you may find she will be more comfortable in a 100cms/44 inches because she is quite fleshy.

Larger Under-band sizesFit the same way as you would for a small under band customer.

Excess FleshYou may find with some customers even when you have fitted them into their correct size excess flesh will hang over the back of the bra.

Tailoress Tip• Explain, tactfully to the customer that a larger under-band would ride up her back giving her an ill- fitting bra, but do allow her to try on a larger size if she is not happy and advise her that she will not get the same support from the bra.

3635

Strapless BraThe bra should feel firm on the underband. If it is too loose it may fall down or the customer will find she is constantly lifting the bra up. Explain to the customer that she will not get the same lift from a strapless bra as she would from a bra with straps.

DisabilitiesAssess the situation and tactfully deal with it according to the customers needs and treat the woman in the same way you would any of your customers.

Tailoress Tip• A strapless bra can make the bust look lower if the customer is not happy with this look suggest transparent straps.

Tailoress Tips• If the customer is in a wheelchair use the largest fitting room to give you both more space.

• A customer who is feeble may need to sit down during the fitting process.

The perfect add on for every bra fitted!

The ShortyThe MaxiThe Hipster

The String

The Tai The Midi

The Tanga

The Mini

Know your favourite BRiEf fiTS

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noTES

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