Climbing Management Plans:Concepts & Case Studies

Who is the Access Fund?National advocacy organization that keeps climbing areas open and conserves the climbing environment

-Founded in 1991-Represents 6.8 million climbers nationwide -Six core programs support the mission on national and local levels:

– Education– Stewardship & conservation– Climbing policy & advocacy– Local support & mobilization– Risk management & landowner support– Land acquisition & protection

1994~350,000

2014~6,800,000

20 years

Explosion of Indoor Climbing• Over 4,300 people fill out digital waivers each day.• More than 1,400 climbing facilities.• In 2013, there was a 10% increase in new climbing

gyms, with an estimated 36 to open in 2014.

Media is Embracing Climbers

Yesterday’s Climber

Today’s Climber

More climbers ≠ More impact

Impact is a function of Intensity, Type of Use and Ecosystem

Impact (or perceived impact) causes issues that a CMP may resolve

Current Conditions

Climbers + Land managers + Budget = Management Activities

But currently most climbing areas do not have CMPS and that is partly why the Access Fund is in business.

Land Manager

Climbing Community

Climbing Management

Climbing Management Plans

Climbing Management Plans

Sensitive and complex issues, land manager concerns, and stakeholder conflicts

Increase Compliance

Better for climbers, land managers and environment

Climbing Management Plans-Build cooperative relationships between climbers and land managers-Provide management direction that is fair, effective and the minimum necessary

to protect resources-Satisfy statutory requirements and agency guidelines-Provide information on climbing activity, contextual use patterns, and the effects

of climbing activity on identified resource values-Describes climbing opportunities as values/assets

CMPs can address any or all of the elements of a climbing system

1. Parking2. Approach3. Staging area4. The Climb5. The Summit6. The Descent7. Camping or Bivouac sites

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Ecological Issues

Cultural Resources

Social Issues

Site specificity

Climbing Management Plans

Wildlife

Wildlife

CLIMBERS!PleasehelptheGoldenEagles

TheareabehindthissigniscloseduntilJuly31toprotecttheeaglefamilythatisnestingnearby

withayoungeaglestillgrowingintoitswings.

ThenestingareaandclosureareactivelymonitoredbytheUSFSandateamofclimberstotracknestingprogress.

Pleasejoinusinprotectingtheeagles bynotgoingintothisarea.

ThisclosureissupportedbytheAccessFundandtheBoulder

ClimbingCommunity,andisenforcedbytheU.S.ForestService.Thankyou.

Vegetation

Soils

Soils

Cultural/Archaeological

Cultural/Archaeological

Cultural/Archaeological

Social Issues

Social Issues

Social Issues

Social Issues

Site Specific Management

Site Specific Management

Site Specific Management

Site Specific Management

Partnerships

Partnerships

Partnerships for Stewardship

EducationAttention Climbers

WelcometoJoe’sValley.Climbershavebeenvisitingthisareaformorethan15years,establishingclimbingasamajorattraction.Sincethattime,thepopularityofclimbingcontinuestoincrease,drivingmoreandmoreuseatmanaged&unmanagedareas.Thisconstantincreaseinuseisweighingheavilyonourclimbingresources;levelsoferosion,humanwasteconcerns,trashlevels,campingimpacts,culturalresourceconcernsandthreatstovisitorsafetyareallfollowingapatternofrisingconcern.Joe’sValleyisacovetedlocation,lovedandrelieduponbythepeopleofEmeryCountyfordrinking&irrigationwater,recreationalfisherman,whitewaterrafting&kayaking,aswellasanaccesscorridorforoff-highwayrecreationusers.TheclimbingcommunityinJoe’sValleyhasquicklyoutgrownotherusersinthemainstemsofbothLeft&RightFork,aswellasNewJoe’s.ThisgrowthinpopularityhasbeennoticedbytheUnitedStatesForestService(USFS),BureauofLandManagement(BLM)&EmeryCounty.Climbers,althoughwelcomedbythesurroundingcommunity,mustplaygentlyonthelandinordertomaintainlong-termaccess.Joe’sValleyclimbingandcampingisonamixtureofUSFS,BLM,andtheStateofUtah&EmeryCountyproperties.Asaresultofthisvariedlandownership,itsvitalthatclimbersrespecteachlandmanagers’policies,regulationsandlimitations.Pleasefollowthesimplerequestsbelow.

PLEASEHELPUSPROTECTWHATYOUAREHERETOENJOY!

CAMPING&FIRES· Camponlyinpre-establishedcampsites;donotcreateorexpandcampsites.· Donotcampincanyonwashes/drainages–flashfloodingisapotentialthreat.· Donotcreateorexpandfirerings.· Keepfiresmoderateinsize.FirescanquicklyburnoutofcontrolinJoe’sValleyenvironments.· PalletfiresareNOTpermitted;nailsdonotburn,creatingatrash&safetyissue.· Donotcollectfirewoodfromsurroundings,bring/purchaseyourown.· Pleaseusesuppliedport-a-pottiesorfacilitiesintown.Ifyoumust,pleaseuseaWAGBAGorother

LeaveNoTracemethodstodisposeofhumanwaste.Pack-outalltoiletpaper.

PARKING&ACCESSROUTES· Parkentirelyoutoftravellanes.Safetyisamajorconcern.· Parkascloselytogetheraspossible–considercarpooling.· Donotparkinwashes/drainages-flashfloodingisapotentialthreat.· Pleasestayonestablishedaccessroutestoavoiddestroyingnativevegetation.· Donotcreatetrailshortcuts,removeorcutvegetation.

CLIMBINGAREAS

· Donotbuildfiresinboulderingareasornearboulders.· Padboulderingareasgently.Pleasepick-uppadsvsdraggingthem.· Confinegearsprawltolimitfurthererosion.· Pleasebrushofftickmarksafterclimbing.· Keepdogsundercontrol,preventthemfromdiggingandpick-upafterthem.· Leavethelocationcleanerthanyoufoundit.Tape,toiletpaper,fruitskins,chalk,etc.areall

consideredtrashandmustbecarriedout.· Packitin,packitout.

TheAccessFund,SaltLakeClimbersAlliance,USFS,BLM&EmeryCountyareworkingtogetherforthelong-termstewardshipofJoe’sValleyclimbing,butweneedyourhelptoprotectthisspecialplace!

Poop: it happens and we all do it!

What’s wrong with this picture?

Responsible Climbers: there are common themes

Our trash lasts way longer than most of us think

Gym to Crag

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Outreach