umbrella issue one

8/3/2019 Umbrella Issue One

1/35


2/35


3/35


4/35

Umbrella is published by Wool Media, copyright 2010 Editor Anthony Teasdale ([email protected]) Art DirectorMatt Reynolds ([email protected]) WebMitch Crease ([email protected])Advertising Manager Jon Clements ([email protected]) Fashion Editor Natalie Cornish([email protected])ContributorsJon Boon, Terry Daley, Brett Fo raker, Alex Rayner, Kevin Sampson, Nick Soldinger

woolmedia

CONTACT [email protected]

UMB004


5/35

8 Editions

www.umbrellamagazine.co.uk www.umbrellama

Covered: Collections, matchboxes, Ind

Indian matchboxes

are a law unto

themselves

bright

sparks

wi Briis

smokig b

vibiiy of four-

for--qui igrs i our iy

rs, ms r ow i

mor ri of im

w vryo pu

oy wy o ig r ws

wi Bry My.

no so i Ii.

Wr is bus pop

ppiy sprk up wiou

big m o f ik soi

pris or k of os

gus mums us o ig

gs obs wi, ms r

py. a, i kpig

wi is oourfu, oi

oury, ir brs

of mmkrs sur

bsou fs for ys.

Briis ris M l, wo

ivs i Ii, is fsi by

Iis rry of mboxs.hs m i is go o o

s my s . Wi

sous u, bu is w,

o i Umbrellas ys.

Wkig rou Bgor

iy, wr I iv, you

om ross mboxs

vrywr. cp

isposb, y ir

igwys foops,

of o b fou sr

rou y rosi i s,

igr kiosk or dhaba.

t sigs rg from

igrs ( fvouri)

Boywoo srs (of

wrig sugsss) o s

r gi pis. tr

is o rym or rso o y

of m. For M, yr

rmirs of wr s b

i is bwiig io.e sig sigis

prso mmory. togr,

visib srs of

br boxs sory;

mppig ps Iv b

xpris Iv .

try xpiig o Briis

usoms ors.

W

DetailsBoywoo srs vi wi

rikrs for uur

popuriy i Ii. corry

o bif, Boywoo is o

wo of m iusry

i Ii, bu is jus

mos proi rm of i.

Detailst swsik is i

symbo us i hiuism

Buism o o goo

uk. dspi is ssoiio i

Ws wi nzism, is si

ispy wiou gui i Ii.

hr, is ruy uky srik.


6/35

10 Editions


Covered: Amsterdam, maps, med

News & informationA selection of the things that make the season worth living

U-feed What Umbrella likes this issue The super-colourful Pantone Hotel in Brussels

brings some brightness to the Belgium capital www.pantonehotel.com 80s Casuals, from

T-shirts with trainers to proper clobber for its winter collection 80scasualsblog.blogspot.

com Taschens Los Angeles: Portrait of a Citymakes us want to move there 50 years

agowww.taschen.com Sothebys Polaroid Collection auction. Two-hundred-thousand

dollars for a snap Looking at

Steve Jobs in a buttoned-up,

button-down shirt introducing

the iMac in 1998 onYouTube

Acejet170, the best font and

typography site on the net that

weve found. So much enjoyment

from such simple things acejet170.

typepad.com The new and

improved New York subway

map Manhattan, now 30 per

cent bigger! www.mta.info/maps

The birth ofAmsterdam

U n d e r a p p r e c i a t e d

Guardian football guides

With writers as good as Paul Doyle

and Martin Kelner on board, it

shouldnt be a surprise that the

voice of liberal Englands pre-season

supplement is excellent yet were

always blown away by just how ace

it is. Crammed with stu, you know,you might actually want to read, plus

shedloads of insight and humour,

the guides are an indispensable tool

for football anoraks and inveterate

gamblers alike. The one the paper

produced for the 2010 World Cup

was a xture on the Umbrella sofa,

ready to be consulted when the lure

of Mr Hills online betting emporium

proved too much. If this wasnt

enough, every guide is a satisfying

A5-ish size just right to be collected

and put in a shoebox at the back of

the wardrobe, ready to be leafed

through in years to come.

One thing to see this season

If theMaps: Power, Propaganda

and Artexhibition at the British

Library isnt enough, another august

institution is devoting its hallowed

galleries to the study of urban living:

the Rijksmuseum in Amsterdam.

On The Canals of Amsterdam features

paintings, drawings and exquisitely

detailed maps from the Dutch

Golden Age of the 17th Century,

which saw the city grow into the

most important metropolis inEurope. By 1672, the population of

Amsterdam was over 200,000 and

the construction of its world famous

half-moon canal system cemented

its place as a vital trading port. Its

this fascinating, expanding city that

the exhibition covers.

The exhibition runs until September 6.

www.rijksmuseum.nl

African moonshines

The illegal drinks thatare sending people crazy.And yes, they really are

Botswana: Tho-tho-tho,distilled sorghum brew,trans: The dizzy spell. Otherlocal names include O lala

fa(You sleep right here);Chechisa(Hurry-up); Laelammago (Say goodbye toyour mother); Monna-tota(Real man); and Motse o tenggodimo(There is homein heaven).

Benin, Togo: Sodabi. Cornliquor also used as a sterilizerin voodoo ceremonies.

DR Congo: Kasiki, trans:I regret; Mokoyo, trans:The dog that bites.

Kenya: Kumi Kumi,trans: 10 10, as a glasscosts 20 Kenyan shillings;Jet 5, distilled alcohol cut

with plane fuel; Hustle,contains faecal water andformaldehyde.

Nigeria: Crazy man ina bottle, a lethal palm winedistillate; Changaa, trans:Kill me quick.

Uganda: Waragi, bananawine cut with industrialalcohol. The name is acorruption of the colonialterm War gin.

Zimbabwe: Scud, anunltered beer.

Serious note: poorly distilledspirits contribute to hundreds

of deaths across Africa eachyear. The WHO also believesmoonshine contributes tomalnutrition, impoverishmentand domestic violence.

Alex Rayner is the Editorofbspirit magazine.

www.bspiritmagazine.com

O v e r r a t e d

Weekend fashion supplements

To be a journalist on one of the

big broadsheets style supps is to

have bought the winning ticket in

Easy Streets weekly lottery. Its

not a crime that these mags tend

to be staed by well-spoken gals

with parents in the media, but their

sheer metropolitan laziness really

does tweek Umbrellas tail. If these

writers ever leave the capital, its

only to write some patronizing article

about how glamourous (ie tarty)

Liverpools women are or why

Newcastles nightlife is so much fun

(ie Lets laugh at the proles). So,while a certain supp could dedicate

a recent issue to the completely

ctitious new style tribes of (you

guessed it) London, countless scenes,

trends and real tribes around the

UK got missed out. Its not just

politicians who are lazy, is it, ladies?


7/35

12 Editions


Covered: Tablet PCs, watercolours, mobile phon

News & information

A real Gentleman

One painters wistful look at the capital

With London changing every day witness the expansion of

skyscrapers that have transformed the City since the mid-

1990s its important that the capital is captured by artists and

photographers so we can see what weve lost or gained in years to

come. This is why Umbrella is so keen on the muted watercolours

painted by David Gentleman, who spent the 1980s documenting

both Londons more familiar central area, such as Primrose Hill

(pictured here in various guises) and the less well-known suburbs

where tourists rarely venture.

Twenty-ve years on, his works have been catalogued in David

Gentlemans London, a gorgeous exploration of the capital city

through the dreamlike medium of watercolour paint. Give or take

a Gherkin or two, London is instantly recognizable, a city with

robustness built into its very fabric, yet here it looks fragile and

otherworldly. If the town does one day sink into the Thames mud,

hopefully well have books around like this to remind us what this

metropolis was really like. For now, however, Gentlemans work

helps us appreciate what weve still got.

David Gentlemans London is published by Antique Collectors Club,

price 25. www.antiquecollectorsclub.com

stasis. They know that you know that theyreworthless, yet theyre rich and famous and

youre not. Somethings got to give and that

something is usually the name.

Below is a list of some ofUmbrellas favourite

actual US weathermen from the past decade.

Please note that a couple of these fellows have

recently retired. Also note that for several years

Dallas Raines and Johnny Mountain actually

worked in thesame city. Amazing.

Ray Ban The Weather ChannelDallas Raines KABC, Los Angeles

Joe Bastardi AccuWeather

Mish Michaels CBS4, Boston

Johnny Mountain KCBS, Los Angeles

Storm Field WWOR (UPN), Secaucus, NJ

Flip Spiceland NBC WXIA, Atlanta, Georgia

Brett Foraker is a flm-maker and scriptwriter

Tip: www.themorningnews.org

Weather by name.Weather by nature

Ron Burgandys weatherman was,

if anything, an exercise in subtlety

In America, local TV weathermen (or

meteorologists as they like to be called) are a

curious bunch. They exist in a kind of cheesy

m u c h m i s s e d . . .

Nokia 8210

Anyone who says they dont drool over the iPhone 4 is

either a liar or er someone who doesnt drool over the

iPhone 4. Anyway, while Apples latest communicator

pretty much denes what technology is about at the

beginning of the 2010s (along with HTCs Android-running

Desire), were still in love with the phone that made

mobiles not just functional, but actually objects of desire,

Nokias exquisite 8210.

Weighing in at a tiny 79g with the battery in, and boasting

dimensions of just 101.5mmx44.5mmx17.4mm, the 8210

truly was the most mobile of mobile phones. Small enough

to be slipped in the pocket of a pair of jeans, it would only

alert its owner to call with a discreet vibration. Something,

in those still mobile-phobic times, that non-attention

seekers appreciated.

Today, it seems awfully basic the res no camera,internet or mobile lm-editing function. And yet truly, an

8210 is really all you need especially if you favour form

and function. So even though Umbrellas is no longer in

use, it sits on the shelf, ready to be turned on once more

should Mr Jobs newest device have a terminal breakdown.

Connecting people, thats what they said and thats still

ultimately what its all about.

Fancy a Moonse?

How China and Google are combining to

take on the iPad

Apples iPad is, like the iPhone before it,

spurring on a whole slew of developers to

come out with rivals. Unsurprisingly, the

most innovative tablets are coming, not from

California, but from China. And Umbrella is

especially intrigued by the Moonse E-7001

from Shenit.com.

Running Googles Android 1.5/6 operating

system, the Moonse is, at seven inches long,

smaller than the iPad, but it boasts two USB

ports, SD slots, an audio jack, front-facing

camera and a single Apple-like navigation

button. It retails at just $160.

Shenit is not the only company looking to

get onto the Android bandwagon Samsung

will release its own tablet, the Galaxy, using

the operating system in the near future. Web

developer Loz Gray says its Android that is

the key to the tablet market.

At the present time, Andriod is looking like

it will be the only serious competitor to iOS

(the system used by the iPad, iPhone and iPod

Touch) for tablets. Whilst they still lead in

the desktop space, Microsoft currently seem

to be trying to force that standard desktop

operating system (OS) onto a tablet. Windows

7 is a great desktop OS, but its designed

exactly for that a desktop machine with a

mouse. For a tablet, Windows 7 is overkill.

Gray also believes that with hundreds of

applications available for Android, it makes

sense for programmers to work with it,

especially as its free to license, which cuts

down the cost to consumers. Then theres

the matter of Webkit.

This is the underlying technology for the

web browsers used in WebOS, Android, iOS

and, soon, RiMs Blackberry, he says. Why

is this important? Because more and more

people are using web applications, such as

Google Docs, to get their work done. If you

were a developer of such an application, why

would you spend extra time and eort getting

things to work with Microsofts browser

technology, a minority in this space, when

you can kill four birds with one stone by

developing solely for Webkit-based browsers?

While the Moonse may not be the answer to

all your tablet needs, its appearance is a sign

that Googles philosophy is paying dividends

all over the world.

www.lozworld.com


8/35

www.umbrellamagazine.co.uk www.umbrellam

Covered: The 60s, photography, Lond

Ordinary worldHow the swinging 60s swerved one of west

Londons most famous thoroughfares

Portobello Road is a true

London icon. Known

primarily for its antiques

market and, more recently, a

plethora of organic grocers and

falafel takeaways, this winding lane

is one of the few streets in town

where yummy mummies, rst

generation West Indians and old

school cockneys can rub up together

with little ill-feeling. But while the

area around it certainly at the

upper end in Notting Hill now

contains some of the most expensive

real estate in the world, this hasnt

always been the case.

In the early 1960s, Ladbroke Grove

and Notting Hill were best known

for race riots, slum housing and the

sort of nocturnal dwellings that have

always serviced the vicarious needs

of the capital. This world has been

captured in a new book,Portobello

Road, which features the work of

John Petty, a photographer whodocumented the area when it was

still a relic of an older London.

Looking at his pictures, we see

that the W11 of this period was

very dierent to the one of today.

Instead of designer boutiques, we

nd formidable old women man

fruit and veg stores, men in ash

macs searching for paintings and

legions of (very) ordinary folk

supping brown ale and smoking

Embassy outside scruy boozers

This terric book also reminds

that no matter how deeply our ro

grow, London, that most imperso

of cities, soon grows tired of us

and sends us on our way with su

speed that we leave barely a trac

behind. Something the incomers

todays Portobello Road would d

well to bear in mind.

Portobello Road is published by

Antique Collectors Club, priced 12

www.antiquecollectorsclub.com

An old streetPortobello Road is named after a British

naval victory at Puerto Bello in the Gulf of

Mexico. Originally a rural track from Notting

Hill to the newly-named Portobello farm,

by the end of the 19th C entury, the road

was lined with shops and houses. The

current antiques market began

after World War II.

Editions14


9/35

HOW TO

WORLD OF STEAK

Argentina: The steak here is all

about freshness. They dont hang

their beef what youre getting is

less flavour, but more moisture.

United States: With little regulation,

a lot of animals are reared too fast

and may contain extra hormones.

United Kingdom: We like to hang

our meat in Britain, which means

the moisture content reducwes and

youre left with flavoursome meat.

CHUCK

RIB

LOIN

RUMP

ROUND

BRISKET

PLATE

FLANK

SHANK

LETER FROM ROME

LETTER FROM ROME

ROMA

RO M A


10/35

18 Editions

www.umbrellamagazine.co.uk www.umbrellamagazine.co.uk

Covered: Genetics, pre-histo

s head of the Genographic Project,

which collects hundreds of thousands

of DNA samples from around the

world, Wells has been able to build a family

tree for everyone alive today. The results of

these studies form the basis of his new book.

Umbrella spoke to him about agriculture,

AIDS and why fatty food tastes so good

Umbrella: The premise of the book is that

civilization makes us ill

Spencer Wells: Yes, certainly the ancillary baggage

thats involved in it. Its not uniformly bad, but

its not this utter period of joy either. You look

at the disease burden thats increased as weve

domesticated animals and how population density

has gone up. You look at the shifts in government

and people being unable to pursue their dreams

and having to subsist under a regime. Weve lost

an awful lot of freedom.

U: How?

SW: People who study hunter-gatherers call them

the original auent society because it took very

little eort to go survive in the conditions they

were living in. This meant they could tell stories,

invent tools and innovate. Once you were tied

to the eld, you were working every day, up at

sunrise bringing the kids out there, having more

kids so you could till more elds the population

expanded, but it wasnt because that way of life

was better for us in many ways it was worse.

U: How did agriculture begin?

SW: It was around the time of the Younger Dryas,

[a mini-ice age around 11,000 years ago], that we

were forced to innovate. People were using wheat,

but the climatic shifts made the crop retreat. Yet

people had already made a decision to stay in one

place, build villages and gather wheat, which, if

they did for two or three weeks could feed them

for a year. When this stu disappeared there was

no way they would go back to being nomadic, so

they had to develop a way to produce more and

the way to do that was to plant the seeds.

U: You point out that our domestication of

animals led to an increase in disease

SW: Before we lived with domesticated animals,

we hadnt been in close contact with them unless

they were dead. When youre living with them for

a number of years anything can jump back and

forth. Youve got all these plagues in The Bible that

come out of this period. Render pest jumps over

from cows and becomes measles and, because

of the high population, theres lots of rodents

about, so smallpox is transferred from them. Even

malaria, which had been around 100,000 years

really exploded then, because we were creating

perfect conditions for mosquitoes.

U: What was killing us before agriculture?

SW: It was trauma: you fall down, break a leg, it

gets infected, you die. You get a tooth abscess

you die. You get into an argument, youre hit over

the head you die. When we settled into densely

populated societies, it became less likely. As I said,

what happens more are these infectious diseases

from other species. Thats the major killer until the

20th Century. Whats killing us now are diseases

from within. That was set in motion back then.

U: And then theres the tooth decay

SW: Once agriculture starts, our tooth cavities go

up by a factor of ve, because of the starch in the

diet. Hunter-gatherer populations living in well-

studied sties in Syria, just prior to the Neolithic

period [7,000-3,000BC], ate 150 plant species.

Immediately after agriculture theyre eating just

ten, and its mostly wheat and barley. Theyre

ingested in the form of starch [wheat, corn etc],

which sticks around and forms acid on your teeth

and suddenly you have cavities on your teeth.

U: Why is that unheatlthy food tastes good?

SW: We have receptors for sweet-tasting and bitter-

tasting things in our food. If things taste sweet its

generally because theyre actually good for us.

Theres a lot of calories, theyre not poisonous

think of a nice, fresh pineapple, everyone likes

that. Were also adapted to recognise bitter things

can be poisonous.

The issue is that now theres an excess of sweet

and fat which, incidentally, is another thing that

appeals to us, because its got lots of calories.

Were adapted to a life when it was dicult to

nd these things. Prior the 20th Century, sugar

was hard to get, we used to honey, that was rare,

expensive. Rened sugars a great way for things to

taste good. Eric Schlosser says inFast Food Nationthat if you look at big name burger chains, theres

things that shouldnt have sugar added to them,

but do, because theyre appealing to those ancient

receptors by adding key ingredients.

U: Are there any other ways civilization is

harming us?

SW: Mental illness. The World Health Organisation

estimates that by 2020, mental illness will be the

second-biggest cause of death and disability in the

world after heart disease. Anti-depressants are

mostly prescribed drug class in the US and som

European countries. Eight per cent of American

are on them. This is the rst time in history tha

weve taken drugs to feel normal.

Its another example of us being crammed into

massive cities. Can you walk down a street and

say hello to people? No, of course not, but thats

unnatural to our hunter-gather psyche, which

evolved to live in groups of no more than 150

where you know everybody. Think of everyone

in an elevator looking at the Blackberry and not

talking, thats profoundly unnatural. Our minds

are reacting to this.

U: As humans are we not programmed to act

only when we have to?

SW: Its not just about education and incentives

Without them were not going to act. We need to

see the proximal cost. Global warming, everyon

has a sense this isnt sustainable in the longer

term, but to a lot of people that means, After

Im dead. Basically, the science is saying that it

going to take a millennium for the eects to be

seen. We need to act now, but we dont act unle

we see an immediate benet. If you penalise

people for not recycling then theyll do it. We ne

that sense of urgency, but weve been able to fo

ourselves. Weve been expanding since we cam

out of Africa, but for the rst time in the middle

this century that will plateau.

U: Whats been our worst innovation?

SW: In terms of long-term aects, I do think

agriculture. We were forced into it, but if you

could take a broad view from say 50,000 years

from now, youd pinpoint that as a bad moment

U: What would have happened if agriculture

hadnt been invented?

SW: Wed still be living as hunter-gatherers, buta more sustainable way. Its not easy to imagine

as civilization, cities, farming are so ingrained in

what we are. And we like a lot of what civilizatio

gives us I do too. Im just arguing theres some

downsides. We wouldnt have cities, but we woul

have epidemic disease, obesity and AIDS either.

U: Finally, where now?

SW: We have to want less. Greed is not good for

us, it destroys us and the world we live in.

question answer

A

Where do modern

humans come from?There was an early coastal migration from

the Rift Vally that went along the south coastof Asia about 50-60,000 years ago and it made

it to Australia. About 5,000 years later, there

was an inland migration that went to the Sinai

Peninsula between 40-50,000 years ago. Most

of us outside of Africa can trace ourselves to

that migration. They would have moved up

into central Asia into the Steppes, hunting

wooly mammoths, then turned left into

Europe about 35,000 years ago.

hoW humans nearly

died outThis phase was sparked by the volcanic

eruption of Toba, which happened 74,000

years ago, the largest eruption in the last two

million years. Hundreds of millions of tons of

ash and sulphur dioxide went into the upper

atmosphere and there was basically a global

nuclear winter for at least a decade. That,

coupled with the shift in the Ice Age, meant

conditions were really tough for hunter-

gatherers. The human population crashed to

as low as 2,000 and we nearly became extinct

PandorasSeed:TheUnforeseen

CostofCivilization

ispublishedby

AllenLane,priced20

In his new book, Pandoras Seed: The Unforeseen Cost of Civilization,

geneticistSpencer Wells argues that the human races move from a hunter-

gathering society to one based on agriculture, laid the foundations for

everything from global warming to the present obe sity epidemic

The seeds

of desTrucTion

by 2020, menTAlillness will be The

second-biggesT

cAuse of deATh in

The world


11/35

20 Editions


Covered: Ambient, Aphex Twin, v

ome hi e imee. I h, howeveo pipoi wh i cuy i ou hee

iem (whehe heye mei o o) h

mke hem e o wih he u of chi

e. bu, i fi o y, h impiciy i poy

he key o hei oi ucce.

the aphex twi Selected Ambient Works i impe

vey euifu eco, oh i he wy i ou

he wy i ook. reee i 1992 o apoo, he

mie ohoo of iuei bei impi (oe

muo em hee, ki) r&s, he um w ce

i h echo, he muic h h oucke

much of he ey ve e, w movi i moe

houhfu iecio. apoo, wih i focu o

emy miece, w fuhe poof of hi che i

phioophy.

rich Jme, he aphex twi, w ey kow

foDidgeridoo, he 140pm ie h h ke ve

we houh o i imi. bu saW w iee. Wih

he um ow i he mix, he um eie moe o

Jme kck fo wii cchy meoie h i i

o hi iiy o mke kick um ou ike omeoe

ii up he o. I he y efoe viu uio,

um mchie, mpe ome impe keyo

wee h wee eee fo he Coihm o mke

euifu, ci, home-iei eecoic. the fc

h much of i w wie, uppoey, whe he w

i hi ey ee me i eve moe emke.

thee w myey hee, oo. no fo Jme he

e-we-uhy? u-efeeci ie of hi

pee. Ie, hi compoiio wee ive me

ike Xtal, Pulsewidth Schottkey 7th Path. thee

wee ie h ippe o he oue.

Fiy, hee w he ei of he um he

ppece ofthatoo oo o ce hou of

t-hi he w of my k-hie ue.

like he ee um cove iee, he

ee um fu w ipee wih, he oy

hi h mee w he mee. a o Selected

Ambient Works , phic impiciy kocke fcy ew

compue echique (ee o coempoy eco

ike sve VhAccident in Paradise) io cocke h.

go kow wh he mee cuy w, houh.

smpe oo wo ice of viy ief eecioh moe peope wee dJi hu eee oue

pei SAWi, wihou oui oo dvi suiv

ou hi, 12 iche of pue i. th why ey

20 ye o, i i e moe oio o he Umbrella

eeo h yhi ee. Pefec.

Our favOurite things

The Aphex TwinSelected Ambient Works

85-92(vinyl edition)

S

James has claimed to have over

100 hours of unreleased music

from the period in which

SAWwas recorded.

James odd titles are in kee

with the aura of mystery tha

surrounds him. The name A

Twin, comes from a brand

of audio processing equipm

Richard James, already aware of

the power of symbols, did away

with track titles on the labels,

replacing them with his logo.

DetailsSelected Ambient Works w

the Aphex Twins frst LP. La

albums include Surfng on S

Waves, drukQs and theAna

compilation of analogue ele

R&S records was the prem

European techno label of th

early 1990s. It was based in

Gent, Belgium.


12/35

THE SIMPLE PLEASURES OF

HOW TO


13/35


14/35

26 Field trip


Covered: Architecture, modernism, Londo

This is themodern way

Highpoint, Highgate, London N6

Like Hampstead, its slightly larger

sibling across the Heath, Highgate

seems to have been transported from the

Cotswolds and dropped into the middle

of north London. The village, and it really

does feel like one, is made up of Georgian

villas, rows of elegant Victorian terraces and

several modernist blocks, the best of which is

Highpoint. As an example of urban(ish) living

it really takes some beating.Highpoint is made up of two blocks (1 built

1933-35, 2 1936-38), both designed by the

architect Berthold Lubetkin, a Russian emigre

who arrived in England during 1931. An

enthusiastic disciple of Le Corbusier, Lubetkin

designed other buildings infused with the

French architects modernist philosophy,

like the Genesta Road terrace in Plumstead,

south London and the Finsbury Health Centre

in Clerkenwell. Inuential though these

structures may be, they cannot match the

timeless simplicity of Highpoint.

Like the Lawn Road ats in Hampstead

(see 2), Highpoint benets from a stunning

location (the highest point in London, hence

the name) and a large percentage of painfully

tasteful residents, who pretty much dene the

smug metropolitan elite tag. According to

one, St Etiennes Bob Stanley, the block

comes into its own in summer. Lubetkin

based the layout on nearby Kenwood

country house, and the building looks most

spectacular when seen from the sloping

lawns. The swimming pool is always busy on

sunny weekends its your chance to meet

your neighbours Russian cousins youve

heard so much about while the tennis courts

are used by octogenarians who look so t you

feel ashamed to take them on. Lubetkin was

obsessed with blurring indoors and outdoors;each at is heated from the ceiling to give

the impression of the sun beaming down.

The sense of community is heightened by the

buildings bi-plane layout, which means the

ats overlook each other.

However, not everything Lubetkin designed

was as elegant and livable as Highpoint. His

block in Bethnal Green in the East End looks

like the sort of place youd want to throw

yourself o rather than live in.

However, if you do want go and see

Highgpoint youll nd it about ten minutes

walk from Highgate Tube station. And the

pub across the road isnt bad either.

Lawn Road fats, Hampstead, NW3

While Highpoint boasts a stunning

location that overlooks the capital,

the ats at Lawn Road sit on a pleasant, but

ordinary, street just south of Hampstead

Heath. Its only on further inspection that you

realise just how beautiful they are.

Built between 1932 and 1934 by the London

architectural practice Isokon for 20s yuppies

and their Bakelite telephones, the ats were

described by one resident, the novelist Agatha

Christie, as looking like an ocean liner. We

dont know about that Umbrella certainly

couldnt nd any retired hairdressers blowing

their pensions but it does have an eleganceundimmed by time. Its principal architect

Wells Coates said:

My scheme provides a place which every

actor in this drama can call his own place,

and further than that my idea of property

does not go. This is where I sleep, this is

where I work and this is where I eat. This

is the roof garden where everyone can turn

out...This is the garden where everyone goes.

Its like a park.

1

Over the years, the ats started to

deteriorate, but in 2001 the block underwent

a restoration, and now look fantastic.

However, much as we love the modernism

the Lawn Road development represents, so

many crimes were done in this movements

name during the 1950s and 60s that it will

always be associated with asbestos-lled

tower blocks, Soviet-style town halls and

the destruction of some of our greatest city

centres (see Birmingham).

The problem is that on a rainy island like

ours, the steel that reinforces the concrete in

even the best buildings soon starts to rust, th

once-pristine cladding goes grey and heroin

addicts become magically attracted to the

convenience of communal living/stealing.

Maybe thats why Le Corbusiers vision of

a machine for living works better in the

Mediterranean. Unless, sadly, its Naples.Lawn Road ats then are an example of

how constant upkeep should be as much a

part of modernist living as grand ideas about

communal co-habitation. A fresh coat of

paint every year, a caretaker to make sure

the residents are behaving themselves and

as many good summers as its possible to

hope for will keep our modern gems looking

as good now as they did 80 years ago. Lawn

Road proves that maxim perfectly.

North London boasts two

treasures of early modernist

architecture.Umbrella took

the Northern Line to ponder

how time has treated these

jewels of 1930s utopia

Highpoint announces its

presence to visitors

Greek goddesses as supports

Right angles

The beautifully designed

entrance is framed by trees

Highpoint lives up to its name

Lawn Road fats

The fats were described as

being like an ocean liner

Rounded corners and smooth

passages face the street

Shades of 1930s cinema on

Lawn Roads stairwell

The fats still carry the name

of the architectural practice

that designed the building

01

02

03

04

05

06

07

08

09

10

03

0 1 0 2

04

0 5 0 6

07

08

09

2

Haven

The ats were popular with

Jewish intellectuals several

of whom were architects

on the run from Nazi

Germany.


15/35

28 Field trip


Covered: Berlin, cities, metro

Berlin 2010: the citythey forgot to nish

i cii v y qu, m

ccuy c w ivi y y

c k v ic c u. I pi

i bvi, i l, hx m f

ic y 1990 v pm, Mc,

( miy fic) s Ci i

cci f y cf (i wi ck

w). bu f viii bi cy, Umbrella

c cicy y gm ci kck

c i cck . simy

u, every f bi i y v Wi,

wic k ik ski r u cui.

I k wi wk u ciy u, u i

icy fw f l: pzu

b i / i hx/Ii;

Mi i W e/Ciy; U d li mi

w picciy, wi Kufmm f ik

cu vi f Kii, y k

mic KdW m i

umuu f m ix .

a yu mi imi, y i W i

bi. I fc, fu i im w wy fm

ddr, m ciy c fc

w i w ivii Cc C-iki, lvi-

wi c c i W, ui- i

e. Wii v y muic u

si mim eic hick

fvui ii m.

t ciy i, uy, m ic

um nzi y, i fi

w u 1945. t i f-

u muum f ti ric ik i f

e gmy, w iic

y f i w 70 y

y u i ck cu mw i

- wi v i. ev iy

wii hcu Mmi i u y iiiv

imci c u u wi i ki i.

di i i, bi i ii ciy ,

mu mi wi mi mi f uu

miy c. I y, y

, ik bc, i i f cmi

i too wi if. bu wi u mu

f i c, mk- z icic

ym, i vyi Umbrella ik

u u ivi. Imi w i w

i y cm.

M

Todays German capital hasnt

quite made up it mind as to what

it is yet, but, argues Anthony

Teasdale, its all the better for it

01 B TorThe citys gatesi U d

li fm ti,

Brandenburger Tor

i vy c f

ui bi. bui

i 1789, i m

py i a.

t Quadriga

w i 1791.

02AlexRed squarenm f rui

em ax I

f i vii i 1805,

eic hick m i

fm c mk

c f cmmui

e bi. I ccif bi-ik ui

uii i u.

03 U-BahnFirst class travelt bi uu

i i

Umbrella v m

u i cimic

w. W i

m-ik ucu

tuzi

cm, -

m f

icy c i,

i u wi

w m. t

wk i i,

173 i 147km f

ck. W ciy wi, i fm W

u e

bi wu i

cmmui f

ciy, wi e

i w ck

. t U-b

w ci 1,400,000

y.

04 U-gear

SouvenirsoK, i cm wi c-

wi w a

f, u w ick

u m U-b-

m u i bi.

W ciy f

f u t tum-ik

yi c (f i).

Berlin, G

erm

any


16/35

Eat and drink in luxury at Le Meurices

restaurant (left), Bar 228 (above) and

Le Dali, named after the artist who

spent much of his time here.

SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND


17/35

32 Field trip


Covered: Cycl

here are ew better-looking pastimes

than cycling. Not only are the bikes

oten wonders o engineering and

aerodynamic technology, but some o the racing

wear particularly the retro-looking knitted tops

easily ts into a stylish mans wardrobe.

Its or these aesthetic actors that were rather

excited about the Rapha Cycling Club, a pop-up

(ie temporary) shop and exhibition space thats

opened or the summer in Clerkenwell, London.

Rapha, which, to Umbrellas eyes, makes the most

stylish two-wheel wear and accessories, has taken

a space in one o the capitals most cycle-riendly

zones and turned it over to all things bike. That

means exhibitions, race screenings, a coee shop

and lots o nice Rapha gear to spend your cash on.

Halords this is not.

Simon Mottram rom Rapha: Long rustrated at

having nowhere to watch racing or share the love o

the sport with others, we conceived the Rapha Cycle

Club as the place we would most like to hang out in

the summer. Were looking orward to meet ing like-

minded ans, watching the racing and consuming

cycling culture, surrounded by beautiul things.

Certainly worth going through a red light or, then.

The Rapha Cycle Club, 146-148 Clerkenwell Road,

London, EC1. The space is open until July 31.

More info:www.rapha.cc

T

Designer cycling manufacturer

Rapha sets up in central London

Raphalution

constitutes too ar, but I think that any bicycle commute that takes

more than an hour each way is pushing it a bit. Twenty minutes to

hal an hour is ideal, I reckon. Less than 20 minutes, and youll spend

almost as long each end locking and unlocking it; more than 30 and you

really will need a shower.

U: Were rather ond o our clobber here at Umbrella. How does

a chap about town keep his whistle looking smart?

HP: The smartest bike commuters I know do not transport their suits

by bike, but keep them in the ofce to slip into on arrival. Do this.

U: And nally, how would you carry a laptop?

HP: Assuming your laptop isnt rom the dark ages and is relatively

light, a messenger-style shoulder bag is probably your best bet. For

some extra protection, you can wrap the computer in a padded sleeve,

probably made out o a wetsuity sort o material, which will also help

keep it nice and dry.

Bicycle by Helen Pidd, is published by Penguin, priced 14.99

mbrella: Do new riders need a cool bike?

Helen Pidd: No, Theres no such thing as

the right bike. I you have a roadworthy

bicycle, you can cycle to work on it. But i you want

to buy a commuter bike, look or one with a more

upright riding position and a way o transporting

luggage (a rack or basket or handlebars capable o

carrying a bag). Mudguards and perhaps a chain

guard will keep your clothes clean.

U: Some people (us) are terried o coming o.

Isnt cycling really dangerous?

HP: Many novice bike commuters make the mistake

o taking the same route on their bicycle as they

would in their car or on public transport. I you

are thinking o starting to cycle to work, ask your

colleagues or tips on the quietest routes in.

I sometimes plot non-scary commutes or riends

using the very handy Gmaps Pedometer ( www.

gmap-pedometer.com). Also try www.cyclestreets.

netand www.bikely.com. I cycling down a bigroad is unavoidable, make sure that youre visible,

and dont cycle in the gutter. Though it sounds

paradoxical, the closer you are to the kerb, the

more likely cars are to pass you at scary proximity.

U: What about getting to work all sweaty?

No-one wants to stink out the ofce

HP: I you havent got a shower at work, carry baby

wipes! With the baby-wipe option, do shower beore

you leave the house in the morning. That way,

any sweat you do produce while pedalling will be

resh and untainted by the bacteria that makes you

smell like a meat pie. And baby wipes are great or

keeping your bike clean i you cant be bothered to

wash it properly.

U: Should you cycle to the ofce in your

work clothes?

HP: I you want to cycle in your work outt, you can

minimise the chances o looking a complete state by

choosing a bike that goes out o its way to keep you

clean. Upright, Dutch-style bicycles are generally

the best or this.

U: And i it rains?

HP: Either don some quality rain gear, or leave the

bike at home. The website isitgoingtoraintomorrow.

com is very useul.

U: How long is the ideal cycle commute?

HP: Everybody has their own idea about what

Cycling to workAuthor of Bicycle,Helen Piddanswers our questions on

ditching the car or bus in favour of a bike for the daily commute

question answer

U

Gear and gears:

Get the Eddie

Merckx look and a

coffee at Rapha


18/35

34 Field trip


Covered: Advertising, design, tra

hen youre stuck in the queue at

Liverpool John Lennon or London

Heathrow, stranded betweenLa

famille Matching Shellsuitsand the worlds

rudest Blackberry user(Im getting on thisplane whetheryou like it or not), its easy to

forget that, until recently, travel was a byword

for glamour and luxury.

A new book,20th Century Travel: 100

Years of Globetrotting Ads, catalogues how

companies encouraged ordinary people to

take to the seas and skies with beautifully

composed ads, in which every man looks like

Cary Grant and every woman is a dead ringer

for Natalie Wood. As the price of air travel

came down from the 1960s onwards, so more

people could enjoy this experience, but in

doing so, made circling the world at 35,000

feet seem as ordinary as getting the bus.

Travel is now no longer a preserve of the

privileged elite (and a good thing too), but

these adverts show just how the Don Drapers

of Madison Avenue created an ideal we could

all aspire to. And what an ideal it was.

W

20th Century Travel: 100 Y

of Globetrotting Ads is pub

by Taschen, priced 27.99.

www.taschen.com

How the globetrotting dream

was sold to a receptive public

The skys

The limiT


19/35

36 Field trip


Covered: Metros, London, tra

Going Overgroundheres nothing that gets Umbrellas

heart beating quicker than an

elevated urban railway. Were

especially fond of the U2 line on Berlins

U-Bahn, which rises above the heads of the

trendies on Schnhauser Allee, providing

shelter from the driving Prussian rain and an

ideal place from which to sell currywrst. In

London, both the District and Hammersmith

& City lines ferry their passengers above head

height, while the viaducts between London

Bridge, Waterloo and Lewisham thread

mainline trains between modern oce

buildings and over gloomy Victorian arches.

Thats one of the reasons were so blown

away by the new and improved East London

line, which will link the far reaches of

south east London to Hackney in the north.

The highlight of the extended line, which

cost 1bn to transform, is the area around

the new Shoreditch High Street station,

where it curves delightfully over one of the

capitals great roads, thanks to a beautifully

engineered new bridge. And at 12 (fully air

conditioned) trains per hour, normal people

from places like Croydon will be able to pay

ve quid for a bottle of beer in a deliberately

scruy pub full of trendies whenever the

need takes them. Way to go, London!

The East London line is just the rst part

of the new Overground network, which

will provide an orbital railway around the

whole of the capital by 2012. And with 14

refurbished stations on the East London

line alone, Transport for London is

continuing the trend of investing in

architecture that it began with the beautiful

Jubilee line extension. All its got to do now is

demolish Highbury and Islingtons super-

ordinary ticket shed and well be sorted.

More info:www.t.gov.uk

T

Londons new metro is the denition of upwardly mobile

Shore thingShoreditch High Street station

is encased in a sleeve to stop

the rubble from a nearby

building projects getting

on the track.

ImperialWharf

Transport for London,London Overground,October 2009.

Extensiondueto openin 2012

ConnectionwithTramlink

ConnectionwithNational Rail

Interchangestations

Step-freeaccessfrom theplatform tothestreet

London Overground geographic map 2012

MAYOROF LONDON TransportforLondon

A new East London train

The elegant bridge at

Shoreditch High Street

Curved rails take the

train through the city

Waiting for passengers

at Shoreditch

01

02

03

04

0 2 0 3

04

01


20/35

38 Field trip


Covered: Maps, art, propagan

Serio-Comic War Map for

The Year 1877

Tea Revives The World, 1940

The Island, 2008

Map of England, Wales and

Ireland, London, 1603-04

Map of Nowhere, 2008

Map of England, Wales

and Ireland, London,

1603-04 (Detail)

01

02

03

04

05

06

Mapping the past

n terms of what it means to be a man, a

love of maps is right up there with being

able build your own furniture and knowing

all the names of the England squad for the 1982

World Cup. Has your wife or girlfriend ever scanned

Google Maps, zooming in on an obscure oriental

city, just because shes always wanted to know what

Ulan Bator looks like from the air? Have you? This is

what makes us what we are.

Its this fascination with looking at the world

and how its presented that forms the backbone

of the Magnicent Maps exhibition at the British

Library in London. Home to more than 4.5 million

maps probably about the same number as your

dads got in the garage the Librarys exhibition has

room for just 100, from an 1800-year-old Ordnance

Survey-like plan of ancient Rome to The Island, an

incredibly idiosyncratic view of modern London

by the artist Stephen Walter.

Since our ancestors frst scratched an approximation

of where they lived onto a nearby rock, man has

used maps, not just as valuable tools of navigation,

but for propaganda and proof-of-ownership

purposes too. From Castilian cartographers putting

the Spanish coat of arms on large, as-yet-unexplored

tracts of South America to the fantastical here-be-

dragons monsters of medieval maps, what was,

and was not, known, was displayed as fact.

Beautifully crafted, hugely ornate maps were

given to kings and political leaders, who would then

display these awe-inspiring works on the walls of

their palaces as a way of impressing on the visitor

just how important they were. Maps meant power.

The bigger the map, the scarier the monarch was.

As Peter Barber, the exhibitions curator, says:

Most of the message is in the decoration rather

than the geographical outline. A map doesnt have to

be accurate or up to date, as long as it conveys

a sucient message of splendour and power.

People like to know where they are on earth. All

of these maps are trying to associate the viewer with

the viewpoint of the person who commissioned it:

I

The Magnicent Maps exhibition at the British library charts the

history of cartography and comes to some surprising conclusions

If you look closely at my map, youll

see you have a place in it, you can

inscribe yourself into my world.

Straddling the boundary between

science and art, the greatest maps are

timeless representations of the world,

not just how it was, but how those

in charge wanted it to be. And thats

why, with its insights into how power

works, this exhibition provides more

than just a geography lesson.

Magnicent Maps: Power, Propaganda

and Art is on at the British Library until

September 19.www.bl.uk

01

06

02

03

04

05


21/35

199

THE

YEAR THAT

CHANGED

EVERYTHINGThe Poll Tax riot. Italia 90. Slim-fit trousers.Why a period of 12 months 20 years agodefines what we are to this day.

The Poll Tax riot. Italia 90. Slim-fit trousers.Why a period of 12 months 20 years agodefines what we are to this day.


22/35

42 Stories


Covered: Politics, riots, Lond

m in the Museum of London with my two young sons

staring at supersized photographs of the Poll Tax riot.

Frozen moments of terror in black and white. Screaming

rioters, stick-wielding cops, wild-eyed horses, burning cars

Was this a long time ago, Daddy? asks my eight-year-old.

It was when I was younger, I tell him.

Was it a war, Daddy?

It felt like it, I mumble, trying to nd myself in the pictures.

Were you there, Daddy?

I was. Nineteen years old, battering on the door of adulthood, open

to anything, up for anything, trying to make sense of the world

around me. Im in my rst year of higher education, away from

home for the rst time and rave culture is in full swing. Im being

illuminated by books, people, music, drugs, ideas and though

I dont know much, I know that prime minister Margaret Thatcher,

with her Poll Tax, has picked a ght with people like me. I also

know that Ive never walked away from a ght in my life.

It was such a sunny Saturday in London. Bright sunshine,

cloudless blue skies. More like the rst day of June than the last

day of March. I travelled up to the centre of town from my mum

and dads house in south London with a mate Id been at school

with. His name is Neil and he lives in America now. Thats all you

need to know about Neil because shortly after we bowled o the

train at Charing Cross station I lost him to the crowd. Remember,

only yuppies had mobiles back then and with what turned out to

be over 200,000 demonstrators on the streets that day, its not that

surprising I didnt see him again until he sent me a friend request

on Facebook about a month ago.

I may have been on my jack but it didnt feel like it. At least, not at

rst. The demonstration which, if memory serves, gushed down

Whitehall towards Parliament Square, before snaking back on itself

and pouring into Trafalgar Square was like a big party. It had theavour of a rave, and not just because there were plenty of crusties

and pillheads with whistles, but because it was a truly democratic

protest. Sweet old couples and mums with kids marched alongside

seasoned SWPers and tattooed anarchists. Everyone was welcome

and as I walked though the middle of this mighty river of people,

making my way to the front of the demonstration, I chatted to

anyone whod return my smile, and share a quick joke or toke.

The front line of the demonstration was outside the South African

Embassy in Trafalgar Square. A provocative place for the Old Bill to

place their troops, on reection. In 1990, South Africa was still in

the grip of Apartheid and although Mandela had just been released

it would be another four years before their ludicrous racist system

nally got the boot. To many in the crowd, that building symbolised

inequality, unfairness and a spiteful lack of justice the very things

that had brought so many of us out onto the streets that day. Its

not surprising then that it was the precise spot where the violence

kicked o. I know, because I was there when it happened, just three

rows back from the boys in blue when the spark hit the petrol.

Now historians might tell it dierently but my version goes

something like this. As more and more protestors owed into

Trafalgar Square they started to push on the backs of those in front

of them, who then pushed on the backs of those in front of them.

These waves of pressure went on and on until I felt somebody

pushing on my back, pushing me onto the row in front of me.

Moments later the front row were stumbling forward, directly onto

the batons and riot shields.

Police a generation ago were dierent and Britain a far more

brutal place than today. When I shue through the memories of

my childhood, Im shocked at the number of violent images

I regurgitate street violence, football violence, industrial violence,

inner-city riots, terrorism the constant din of it pervaded my

formative years and the men who policed the London streets of my

youth were hardened veterans of it all. Trained by the government

of the day to smash back the erupting chaos, these were hard men

forged by hard times Thatchers thugs, we called them.When the crowd began pushing against the police line that day,

the Old Bills response was as swift, as brutal and as ugly as it had

been when theyd charged down the miners at Orgreave in 84,

hammered rioters in Brixton in 81 and 85, or battered students on

Westminster Bridge in 88. In an instant, it went from a bit of push

and shove to total war.

It now occurs to me that in that moment there was a crack, a

ssure in space and time irrevocably splitting me from the insulated

innocence of my adolescence, plunging me into the world as

I understand it today. A world where some men are monsters

slavering behind civilised masks.

The police came at us in a mechanical fury, batons whirling.

A smack on the head was all the persuasion I needed to back the

f*ck up as the cops were ordering, but where could I go? There

were 200,000 people pressed up behind me. Still the police kept

coming, slashing and whacking like knights on medieval battleeld.

As we tried to scatter I saw one woman go down, I saw her blonde

hair and white T-shirt, I saw her disappear down into the feet of

the crowd and as she fell, the policeman kept hitting her. Again and

again and again. I wanted to help but the surge of the crowd taking

a collective leap backwards was too powerful.

By now I had no control over my movements. I was bobbing along

in a sea of people, arms pressed to my sides, being pushed forward

and back. It was like it used to be at football before they made you

sit for a game. Except this wasnt fun-dangerous, this was scary-

dangerous and I was terried.

The South African embassy had scaolding up outside it and

there was a greeny-brown tarpaulin stretched over sections of the

building. I remember this mundane detail because some lunatic set

re to it. So along with hundreds of baton-wielding riot police, we

now had to deal with burning swatches of tarp raining down

I

RemembeRIngthe Poll tax

RIotNick Soldingerwas just 19 when he got caught up in the

most violent riot central London has ever witnessed.

Here he recalls what it was like to be in the eye of the storm


23/35

i , I c. I E i i k i , I c. i . . c i .i , I c. I E i i k i , I c. i . . c i .2010 Timex Group USA,Inc. TIMEX is a registered trademark of Timex Group USA,Inc. in the U.S. and other countries.


24/35

199 0

DIGEST

Primal ScreamLoaded

This. More than anything.

A Man Called AdamBarefoot

in The Head

Timeless, sun-soaked Ibizan anthem

Leftfield Not Forgotten

Neil Barnes and Paul Daley invent

progressive house

LFOLFO

Futuristic, bass-heavy techno

St Etienne Only Love Can

BreakYour HeartImmense,

dub-meets-indie cover version

Rhythmatic Take Me Back

The bleepiest bleep techno tune

The Farm Stepping Stone

Scouse indie goes house

Happy Mondays Bobs Yer Uncle

Shuffling Balearic from Little Hulton

New Fast Automatic DaffodilsBig

Abstract, percussive dance music

with a little touch of out-there indie

i d b ll ld


25/35

48 Stories


Covered: Football, World C

was to be his last tournament before he crossed the North Sea to take

over at PSV Eindhoven. The island itself prepared itself for the English

invasion with stories running in both the Italian and English media

about what the national teams supporters would get up to. As far as

football journalists were concerned the prospect for an early return was

certain. But they hadnt counted on two things: the rise of Paul John

Gascoigne and a seismic shift in British society.

Two years before Italia 90, the acid house/rave scene kick-started the

most exciting music movement since punk rock. Bands like The Stone

Roses, The Charlatans, Happy Mondays and The Farm became popular

groups who werent afraid to profess their loyalty to football. At the same

time, fanzines like When Saturday Comes gained prominence, detailing

all the quirky, observational stuff that football fans loved to talk about.

Quotes from Albert Camus and Bill Shankly started appearing on T-shirts

with even style magazine The Face running a piece about the iconic No

Alla Violenza tees worn by London and Manchesters hippest young

things. The iconography of football, so common today, began here.

And to cap it all, New Order went and recorded World In Motion, a

brilliant melange of sun-soaked house music, British pop and terrace

cheekiness. It zoomed into the charts at number one.

Peter Hooton, singer with The Farm, explains its appeal.

The track was so good even if it hadnt been a football

record it would have been played everywhere. The fact that

John Barnes did the rap just made it even better. Listening to it

even now just makes me feel happy.

England, as is often the way, started the tournament off

slowly. Placed in a group alongside Holland, Egypt and Ireland,

they ground out two less-than-inspiring draws against the Dutch

and Irish, meaning that to qualify theyd

have to beat the Egyptians in their

final game in Cagliari, the Sardinian

capital. Happily, a floated free kick

from Paul Gascoigne landed on the

head of Mark Wright, who powered

the ball into the net for a 1-0 victory.

It wasnt pretty and in truth,apart from the Dutch game when

Robson had experimented with a

3-5-2 formation, England had been

ordinary. But it didnt matter they

were off to Bologna to play Belgium.

Bologna is Italys Oxford, boasting the worlds oldest university and a

beguiling architectural mix of the medieval and renaissance. It is certain

that this fine old town had never seen anything like Paul Gascoigne when

he stepped onto the turf for the game between England and Belgium.

Theyre not big on hyperactive Geordies in the universities of northern

Italy (well not then anyway), but Gazzas beautifully weighted free kick

that David Platt managed to turn in on the volley with just 32 seconds of

extra time left was pure poetry.

In an absorbing, tense match, the goal was the only difference between

two teams. At the end of game, Terry Butcher and Chris Waddle went

over to the England fans and did a daft dance as the supporters sang,

Lets all have a disco, lets all have discoAnd at home, people not

just football fans were starting to get excited, inspired by the team, by

Gascoigne and even theNessun Dorma theme used by the BBC in their

World Cup coverage. Cameroon, the Indomitable Lions were up next.

For those outside of England, the real hero of Italia 90 was Roger Milla,

Cameroons veteran 38-year-old striker whod taken the tournamentby storm with his flurry of goals and dance-around-the corner flag

celebration. In the July 1 quarter-final in Naples, the African side came

very close to putting England out in fact, with eight minutes to go

Cameroon were actually 2-1 up. Thankfully, their clumsy defending came

to Englands rescue, when they gave away a penalty with eight minutes

left Gary Lineker slotting the ball home. In extra time, a precision pass

from Gascoigne set up Lineker for a run on goal but he was scythed down

in the box. Lineker did the business again from the spot and England

were 3-2 winners. England fan, Phil Sherwin was there.

The Cameroon game was very nerve-wracking. I couldnt believe it

when we finally won thanks to Linekerss penalties. This result meant

a bit more to me because I was due to fly home the next day to go back

to work, but with a semi-final against Germany looming that wasnt an

option. I went to Turin and found a hotel.

Back home, the press had forgotten the pre-World Cup doom and were

now in full-on, flag-on-front-page patriotism mode. At the centre of this

mania was Paul Gascoigne, as England player Chris Waddle remembers.

Paul had no fear, he played like he was on the park. He just enjoyed

himself, he was a young lad with no pressure on him. He didnt care

about reputations and thought, Im going to enjoy myself.

Naples was steamy and hot that July 4 evening when Germany faced

England in the semi-final. England fans, so long derided and maltreated,

outnumbered and out-sang the Germans as the teams prepared to kick

off. Inspired by their supporters and with belief oozing from every pore,

Gascoigne, Beardsley and Lineker set about their opponents, mixing

passion with skill and imagination. For the first half, the Germans

were rattled. Then on 59 minutes they got a free kick on the edge

of the box. It cannoned off Paul Parker in such a way that it

span into the night sky and back into the top of Shiltons

goal. Never has a goal felt more like being kicked in

the stomach. But the England team, this England

team didnt panic, they carried on with their pressing,

precise football and with ten minutes to go, a cross from

Paul Parker landed on the thigh of Gary Lineker, who took the ball

past two defenders and swept it into the net. One-all.

Extra-time both England and Germany came agonisingly close

to scoring, but the real story was Gascoigne. The worlds second best

player was booked for an innocuous

challenge that meant if England won

the semi, he would miss the final

through the accumulation of his

second yellow card in the tournament.

The tears of course, came. How could

they not? To Gascoigne, the World

Cup final was where he was destined to have that taken away from him

nearly destroyed him. But it didnt.

Because after the initial shock, after

Linekers Have a word, Gazza came

back, fighting for his team. And yet, the

deadlock in this magnificent match could not be broken.

And so to penalties. And we all know what happened there. We know

the heartbreak, the disbelief and the sight of countless mulleted Germans

in their terrible kit jumping on top of each other with unrestrained joy

as the Neapolitan ball boys tried in vain to locate the football from Chris

Waddles penalty. It was over, the daft dream that people had only just

started to believe in was finished. Today, Waddle is philosophical.

Our defeat wasnt unjust, it was unlucky. We hit the bar and post, they

hit the post and missed chances. Its like any competition, you need luck.

When we had our chances they didnt go in. Ask the Germans or anyone

else, theyd tell you England were the best team in the tournament.

But later, out of this wrenching defeat came rejuvenation. The defeat

was put into perspective as the England team came back heroes and

Paul Gascoigne was put on a pedestal he could never come down from.

Paul Simpson, author ofGascoigne sums up his contribution:

You look at every English midfielder since the war and only him and

Bobby Charlton have managed to perform at that level. After that, thetears gave us a classic image to sum up the experience.

And football itself? It changed forever. Dont believe it? Read this quote

from an England fan in Italy taken from Pete Davies excellent account of

England at the 1990 World Cup, All Played Out.

I went for a beer last night (during the Czech-Italian game) and all

these birds walk in and theyve got their faces painted red, white and

green you cant imagine the girls back home sitting watching in the pub

with the St George cross on their faces, can you?

You can now.

ondon, June 2010. Wherever you looked there were St Georges

flags. Flying from cabs, draped over balconies, stuck to the wallsof seemingly every pub in town. Talk was of nothing but the

World Cup and how England were going to do in it. Plans were hatched

for afternoons off to watch games, while barbecues got organised around

possible fixtures in the second phase. The new England away kit was on

the backs of countless individuals, from pop stars to new born babies not

old enough to understand what football is. No matter, because more than

the election and certainly more than the forthcoming 2012 Olympics

how England perform in the worlds biggest sporting event matters for

a vast swathe of the population of this country. How it could not be so?

But turn the clock back 20 years and the mood before the Italia 90

tournament was very different. The national side was routinely vilifiedby the media for its unimpressive record, while every paper ran stories

of the inevitability of large scale aggro involving England supporters.

The very publications that the fans read themselves (The Sun, The Star)

gleefully anticipated their violent end at the hands (and batons) of the

ruthless Italian police, the Carabinieri. A fate, their blustering editorials

assured readers, that they would most certainly deserve.

Bobby Robson had been in the England managers job eight years when

his team boarded the plane to Sardinia for their group matches in June,

1990. Unloved and constantly criticised by a hostile English press, this

L

How Italia 90 gave birth to modern football

FORZA GAZZA!

PAUL GASCOIGNE

HAD NO FEAR, HE

PLAYED LIKE HE WASON THE PARK

50 St i C d Ibi l b lt


26/35

50 Stories


Covered: Ibiza, club cultu

990. I was living in Clerkenwell, London EC1 and working

at Channel 4. In those days C4 had a budget especially ring

fenced for youth programming, and I was number two

in a department of three people who decided how to spend it. It

was great. We commissioned programmes like Network 7, The Tube,

Soul Train, The Chart Show and spent the rest of the time going

to clubs and fending off slobbering charlatans telling us about The

Next Big Thing. But I was 28 and already feeling too old for such

a whippersnappers job. So I left Channel 4, set up a company,

Kinesis Films, with an old pal Paul Oremland, and set about

trying to make and sell TV programmes to the only two channels

interested in youth culture BBC2 and C4.

Around the same time, myself and (Madness frontman) Suggs

started working with the Liverpool-based indie band The Farm.

There was an element of frustration from The Farm that, although

theyd cultivated a loyal, predominantly male following right from

their conception in the early 80s, the music press and record

industry had dismissed them as a football band, largely on the

basis of this boisterous fan core. But in 1990 football became

fashionable, and bands like James, Inspiral Carpets and, especially,

the Happy Mondays tapped into that same laddish fan base

The Farm had come to think of as their own. Baggy was born

and The Farm found themselves isolated; excluded from their own

party and, to all intents and purposes, irrelevant. While the nation

was going potty for Madchesters

dislocated groove, The Farm

were the cod-reggae band

with the brass section whod

supported The Housemartins on

their last tour. The group needed

a complete remix, and the first

step for me and Suggs was to

get them in the studio with a

credible DJ/Producer.EC1 still hadnt been trendified

in 1990. It was one of the

few affordable postcodes within

walking distance of the West End, and as such attracted the

creative community. My local was the Duke of York on the corner

of Vine Hill and Clerkenwell Road. Just around the corner was

Heavenly, Jeff Barretts PR agency and fledgling record label. Over

the road was Creation Records. Everyone used to drink in the

Duke, and it was here I first met a ginger-haired rockabilly called

Angus Cameron. Angus had just made his first promo for Creation

a brilliant, psychotic cut-up job for Primal Screams Loaded.

Immediately I saw it, I wanted to work with Angus. I blagged him

repeatedly about directing a full-length film for Kinesis I just

didnt know what, at that point.

Back to The Farm; we persuaded the DJ Terry Farley to work on

the bands first recording session. Terry had seen hisBoys Own

comrade Andy Weatherall hit the heights with Primal Screams

Loaded, and fancied the challenge of giving The Farm a similar

makeover. We brought the band down to work, initially, in Suggss

Liquidator studios and after-hours they took to Londons nascent

Balearic scene like ducks to water. Places like Ziggys in Streatham,

Gosh!, The Milk Bar and Flying were all embracing a slowed-down,laid-back, Ibiza-kissed soundscape and the clubs took The Farm to

their bosom.

And it wasnt just the clubs who were transforming The Farm

there was a whole community, loosely linked by Boys Own

magazine, whose input could be felt and valued; Fiona from Sign

of The Times, Jonathan Richardson at POP, Matthew Collin, the

photographer Glen Lutchford, hairdresser James Worrall at CUTS.

All of them, along with underground mags like The Positive Energy

of Madness, embraced their new Scouse house guests.

Perhaps the biggest ally, though, was club-runner Charlie Chester.

Charlie was the ebullient entrepreneur behind Flying Records.

He also ran the up-and-coming Flying nights at The Soho Theatre

Club on Charing Cross Road. I struck up an instant rapport with

him, and over the course of a vodka jelly session one Saturday

afternoon, he told of his plans to run a bespoke clubbers holiday to

Ibiza. It was to be in June 1990. Flyings galaxy of regular DJs would

be there Harvey, Dean Thatcher, Rocky & Diesel, Glen Gunner,

Ashley Beadle, Scott James and, naturally, Terry Farley along with

a whole tribe of guest jocks, too; Orde Miekle, Danny Rampling

and Andy Weatherall among the glitterati. And it was one of those

moments many of my stories come along in one, fully-formed

blast like this when everything fell into place all at once in my

vodka-stoked bonce. Wed get The Farm out to Ibiza. Kinesis would

take a film crew. And Angus Cameron would direct. It all seemed

deliciously simple and crystal clear we were going to make the

greatest filmic testimony to a living, live youth culture, ever.

The film wasnt without its hiccups and dramas; but it was

inspired. It was inspirational. I knew from the very first night that

we were getting we were going to get something exceptional.

Our cameraman Tim Maurice-Jones found Herculean reserves of

strength to haul his tank-like gear around the Ku Club (as it was

then), dipping in and out of the bacchanalian crowd, somehow

managing to capture the essence of a dancefloor that has just gone

off, lit up, ignited in the way that

club nights just do without

anyone noticing he was there.

There were other sublime

moments; A Man Called Adam on

the rocks by Caf del Mar, tablets

just kicking in as the sun set,

smiling beatifically as they got to

the heart of Ibizas spiritual side:

How can somewhere sobeautiful be so mad?

There was writer Jane Bussman

ripping up the dancefloor all by

herself in Es Paradis as she had a rave-off with a non-existent

groover (it was a massive big PA cabinet); and one of those

moments you just wish the cameras could have been there for

the great and the good of the London club scene off their trolleys

on chocolate brandies and MDMA powder, all sat cross-legged in

perfect serenity, making animal noises. Andy Weatherall was a frog.

The film made its debut on Channel 4 on August 31, 1990. It was

loved by the people we made the film for the club kids, old and

young. Many of the artistes featured on the film went on to more

mainstream success; The Source, The Shamen, Saint Etienne and,

gladly, The Farm all had mega hit records thereafter; A Man Called

Adams Paul Daley formed Leftfield, while tracks by The Grid

and My Bloody Valentine underscored, I think, some of the most

stunningly moving melanges of music and images youll ever see

prompting many a request for a soundtrack CD and (initially) a

video and ultimately a DVD release. For me though, Ibiza: A Short

Film About Chillingwas definitive of its time. It spawned many

imitators, and many a monster,Ibiza Uncovered perhaps being the

nadir. Yet the film is no more or less than the joint inspiration of ascene and its people coming together at the right time, in the right

place, with the right attitude. Without wanting to sound too hippy-

spiritual about it,ASFAC was and is an organic moment, captured

and sealed in a time capsule. Its online if people want to find it.

I dearly hope it will remain elusive and semi-mythologised, out

there in the ether pure, original, innocent and joyful.

The film of Kevins second novel Powder will be out next year.

Awaydays,his first movie, is available now on DVD

1

Twenty years ago, a group of DJs, bands and ravers went out to Ibiza in search of the perfect clubbing

experience. FilmmakerKevin Sampson recorded their antics and in doing so made a timelesstestament to the last great pop music movement

ENDLESS SUMMER WE WERE GOING TOMAKE THE GREATESTFILMIC TESTIMONY

TO YOUTH CULTURE

52 Stories Covered: Football Italy fascis


27/35

52 Stories


Covered: Football, Italy, fascis

ow distinctly unsteady on his feet, former junior sprinter

and long-jump champion Giovanni Maifredi is largely

reliant on his son Enzo to ferry him around Rome. Its an

arrangement which constantly irritates Maifredi Jr, especially as

his ageing father insists on carrying his Young Fascist black shirt

(unworn for more than 60 years) and a photograph of the preening

Il Duce, with jaw tilted at an outrageous angle, around with him,

which he shows to passers-by.

The pair spend most of the timearguing, not always in a good-

natured way either. The situation

isnt helped by the fact that

Giovannis blind and incontinent

Labrador continually yelps

during our conversation.

The dog should be put down,

and my father is a crazy old

man, Enzo tells me before

adding, with deliberate volume

for his fathers benefit, but hell

be dead soon, like his dog, I suppose. Enzos cheek earns him a

clout around the ear from Maifredi Sr. Seventy years ago, Giovanni

was an enthusiastic member of Mussolinis Young Fascists when

Italy hosted the second World Cup and he keeps his black shirt as

a reminder of the time when, Italy felt like it was aiming for the

stars. The national team wasIl Duces football soldiers.

Giovanni has plenty of time to think about his life, and football

in particular. Italy has won the World Cup four times, he says.

Twice, in the 1930s, there were strong links with fascism. And in

1982 and 2006, both triumphs came as scandal [Totonero which saw

Paolo Rossi suspended for a year before the tournament and theMoggiopoli bribery and match-fixing scandal which broke during

the 2006 World Cup] engulfed the domestic league. Whenever

Italy wins on the grand stage, there is trouble. Whenever we dont

win, conspiracies fly around. Always, there is trouble, whatever

happens. This is Italy, he shrugs. His biggest regret is being ill on

the day he was supposed to parade in front of Mussolini in Rome.

I had food poisoning, he laments. Others in my regiment saluted

him, and he met some of them individually and shook their hands.

It still gives me sleepless nights.

N

The World Cup proved that politicians of e very hue are desperate to align themselves with

the beautiful game. But, asJon Spurlingreveals, it was Italian fascist Benito Mussolini

who first realised that football could be an invaluable propaganda

tool way back in the 1930s

THE POWER

AND THE GLORY

Mussolini was thrilled, describing

it as further evidence of Italys

emergence into genuine power.

Mussolini revelled in the glory

of war, and in the 30s, football

was an entirely new ideological

battlefield. By 1932, there were

sufficient modern stadia for Italy

to launch a successful bid for the

World Cup.Il Duce was thrilled at

the prospect of his country hosting

the tournament and not only did he

seek to use it as a propagandist tool

but he also demanded nothing less

than an Italian victory. With backing

from Comitato Olimpico Nazionale

Italiano (CONI), he challenged the

nations foremost sculptors to create

a special trophy (to be presented

to the triumphant Italian side,

obviously), which would reflect

the glory of the nation.

The result was the Coppa del

Duce, which consisted of a group

of footballers fixed in an action

scene in front of thefasces a

central bundle of rods carried by

magistrates in ancient Rome. It was

carved in bronze by the sculptor

Grazes, who had been responsible

for the winged statue of Victory on

the roof of the Littoriales Marathon

Tower. Standing at almost six times

the height of the Jules Rimet trophy

and laden with fascist iconographyof pure physical power, it was the

ultimate statement of intent by

Mussolini. One official press release

announced: Besides the World Cup

offered by FIFA, the football world

championship is blessed by some

of the richest prizes among which,

unique in moral value, is that offered

byIl Duce, who wanted to recognise

the exceptional importance of the

event in such a way. Shortly before

the finals, Mussolini had informed

Italian journalists: Good kicking

is good politics, and it quickly

became clear that Mussolini had no

intention of presenting the trophy to

any other team but his own.

This is an

excerpt from

Death

or Glory, by JonSpurling.

Published by

Vision Sports

Publishing, it

is available at

all major book

stores, inc. Waterstones and Amazon.

An ebook can be downloaded for the

Kindle.www.visionsp.co.uk

Father and son are in the midst of packing for their annual

excursion to theMuseo del Calcio in Florence. Giovanni insists on

travelling there every April to see the Coppa del Duce, the bronze

trophy awarded to the victorious Italian side in 1934 by Mussolini,

and taking his son with him. My father is just a crazy old fascist,

grumbles Enzo, looking at his dad. Couldnt he just have died

in the war like most of the others?

After seizing control of Italy

in 1922, Mussolini stated hisintention to make the country

great, respected and feared.

During the 1930s, he embarked

on a series of lightning-fast

invasions of Libya and Ethiopia

in a bid to build his new Roman

Empire and gain respect as

an international statesman.

He needed football in order to

mobilise the masses at home

but, added to his military success,

if the national team gained plaudits in the World Cup, it would

confirm his standing, official party propaganda claimed, as

our new Julius Caesar.

Under Mussolinis regime, the country embarked upon an

ambitious construction programme, and sporting facilities and

stadia were right at the top of the list. Sports buildings, often with

marble statues nearby glorifying the beauty of the human body,

were designed to showpiece strength and athleticism and act as

a signpost to a new, vibrant Italian youth that the country was in

the ascendancy. Mussolini had a desire to propagate his image

of the new Italian as courageous, physically attractive, vigorous,sporting, explains Angela Tegy of Rome University. He liked

to think he could lead from the front on this. Newsreel footage

regularly showed a bare chested Italian leader skiing or horse

riding. He loved flashy demonstrations of raw Italian power and

sponsored Major de Bernardis successful attempt to break the

water speed record. Before the Schneider Cup race in Norfolk,

Il Duce sent him a telegram saying, All Italy prays for your

success, as Bernardi prepared to fly a Macchi Fiat monoplane.

In front of 60,000, he reached a maximum speed of 246 mph.

MUSSOLINI NEEDED

FOOTBALL IN ORDER

TO MOBILISE THE

MASSES AT HOME


28/35

SHOP MAISON MARGIELA RICK OWENS RAF SIMONS JIL SANDER ALEXANDER McQUEEN COMMON PROJECTS NIGEL CABOURN AND MORE

FEATURES STYLE INTERVIEWS PRODUCT ARCHIVES TECH-NI-CAL INVENTORYAND MORE

OKI-NI.COM

56 Fashion Covered: Preppy, Ralph Laur


29/35

56 Fashion


Covered: Preppy, Ralph Laur

Cricket jumper by Polo Ralph Lauren

Wimbledon collection, 375

Ralph Laurencricket jumper

UMBRELLA LOVES

Complete the lookCricket chic

They may not play much cricket in the

States, but theres no reason why the Ralph

Lauren jumper cant be at the core of a

classic preppy outfit. Were looking at mid-

September as the ideal time for this outfit.

Warm in the day, but cool in the evening.

1. Weejun loafers by Bass, 90

2. White pants by Polo Ralph LaurenWimbledon collection, 135

3. Cricket jumper by Polo Ralph Lauren

Wimbledon collection, 375

4. Blue and white striped shirt by Polo Ralph

Lauren Wimbledon collection, 95

Stockists: Polo Ralph Lauren Wimbledon

collection 020 7535 4600

Part of thebigger picture

The jumper is one

of the core pieces

of Ralph Laurens

Wimbledon collection.

Other standout items

include blazers, white

pants and our favourite,

the slim-fit polo shirts

Cable knit

keeps it cosy

Proper cricket jumpers

are made of cable knit

cotton. This ones

chunky but not overtly

so, meaning it will

keep you warm if it

gets a bit nippy, but not

leave you sweaty and

uncomfortable

Back to the

golden age

Even though its called

a cricket jumper,

the item in fact harks

back to the days when

tennis players wore

long trousers and thick

jumpers to play their

chosen sport in

Keep it close

to your chest

As its made from cotton,

Umbrella recommends

wearing the jumper over

nothing more than a

vest. Its too close-fitting

for a shirt underneath,

so keep it simple

1

2

3 4

58 Fashion Covered: Chin


30/35

www.umbrell

umbrella issue one

Documents