Roadtrek Tour No. 42

Quebec and the Maritimes

July 1997

16 Days

3,484 Miles

ItineraryJul 19-Aug 3 1997 Tour No. 42 Quebec & Maritimes (16 Days)

Historic Valley CG, Pittsfield, MAAmerican Precision Museum, Windsor, VTVictor & Mandy, Haverhill, NHSugarmill Farm, Barton, VTCamping La Relache, St. Romuald, QBGreyline & walking tour QuebecParliament, Citadel, Le Chateau Frontenac, Notre Dame Cathedral, Place-Royal, Musee de la Civilization, Promenade de la Pointe, Agora du Viex-PortMactaquac Provincial Park, Fredrickton, NBFundy National Park, NBThe Rocks Provincial Park, NBTidal Bore, Moncton, NBElm River CG, Glenholme, NSFt. Edward Natl Historic Site, Windsor, NSHaliburton House, Windsor, NSWayside Camping Park, St. Margarets, NSWalking tour Peggy's Cove, NSWalking tour Halifax, NSCitadel, Maritime Museum, CSS Arcadia, HMCS SackvilleWeber Lakeside Park, Porters Lake, NSAlexander Graham Bell Site, Baddeck, NS

Tall Ships, Baddeck, NSCabot Trail, NSPlage St. Pierre CG, Cheticamp, NSArcadian Museum, Cheticamp, NSCape Breton Highlands Natl Park, NSWalking tour North Sidney, NS & HMS RoseLouisburg Motorhome Park, Louisburg, NSWalking tour Louisburg village, NSFortress of LouisBurg, NHS, Louisburg, NSDriving tour Bras d'OrOasis Motel /CG, Antigonish, NSConfederation Bridge, PEIWalking tour Charlottetown, PEIGreat George St. Historic District, Province House, Gainsford HouseCavendish Sunset CG, Cavendish, PEIGreen Gables House, Cavendish, PEIRockwood Park, St. John, NBWalking tour Loyalist Trail, St. John, NBLoyalist Cemetery, Common Law MarketReversing Falls View Park, St. John, NBFt. Howe Lookout, St. John, NBRoosevelt Campobello Intl Park, Lubec, MAKOA Augusta/Gardener, MALowell Natl Historic Site, Lowell, MA

Boots Cotton Mills, Boarding HousesOak Haven CG, Wales, MA

MA & VT

Log Entry: We continued down the other side of the mountain on twisting roads through forest land, eventually winding up in North Adams, MA and the Historic Valley Campground on Windsor Lake. Crossed the Connecticut River into NH on one of the largest remaining wooden covered bridges in the U.S., built in 1866.

North Adams, MA

Connecticut River Covered Bridge

Quebec City

Log Entry: Picked up by Grayline Tour Bus at campground at 8:30 AM for half day tour of Quebec. Friendly, informative, bilingual bus driver gave an overview of city facts in English. Quebec is a largely French speaking (97%), relatively small city at 162,000 with a large surrounding urban area. It is the capital of the province and we saw the parliament building which is outside of the old upper town area. There are few foreign immigrants. The weather produced 14 feet of snow last year and the winter temperature averages 10 degrees F. Quebec was established by Champlain in 1608 as a French settlement and was lost to the British in 1759 in battle on the Plains of Abraham which is now a city park. A statue of Charles DeGaulle at the edge of the park was to be unveiled the following day..

Parliament

Log Entry: Many people. mainly veterans were upset that the province spent a lot a money for a statue of someone unpopular to them. The hilly old upper level walled city, with a Citadel fortification, is situated on rock cliffs above the St. Lawrence River and the original, even older, lower section is at the base of the cliffs, directly on the river. The lower section is filled with narrow cobblestone alleys full of shops and restaurants in original old buildings, bedecked with flowers in baskets and boxes everywhere. Le Chateau Frontenac an immense, medieval French style, hotel started in 1893 and located at the edge of the cliffs on the upper level is the centerpiece of the city. A "boardwalk" along the cliff edge ties the chateau with the outer walls of the Citadel and also serves as a stage for entertainers, ranging from musicians and magicians to sword swallowers. The Citadel has only one entrance, which is in an "S" curve shape for defense.

Quebec City

Chateau Frontenac

Log Entry: The upper and lower sections of the city are joined at the boardwalk by a162 step set of stairs and also by a funicular, a cable car down the side of the cliffs. The funicular was closed because of an accident months ago when the cables snapped and it plunged to the bottom, killing several people. The bus tour ended at the boardwalk and we continued the day with a delightful lunch, in a lovely small restaurant in the upper section, followed by our own leisurely walking tour of both the upper and lower sections. A highlight of the upper section was Notre Dame de Quebec Cathedrale with a magnificent gold altar. In the lower section we watched a well done 15 minute slide show on the beginnings of Quebec in the Place-Royal, saw both plain and elegant furnishings in Musee de la civilization and strolled the Promenade de la Pointe a Carey, another boardwalk along the dock in the old port section called Vieux-Port. During our stroll we stumbled onto Agora du Vieux-Port, a 5,800 seat circular amphitheater, with waterways and falls, near dockside, where we heard a gospel singing group that was rehearsing for a show that evening. We returned to the upper section along one of the steep roads joining with the lower area and met our bus for the return to the campground.

Quebec City

Garden at Post Office

Bay of Fundy

Log Entry: We drove through Fundy National Park and followed the shoreline to Hopewell cape and The Rocks Provincial Park, where we stopped. This is a world wonder, where the worlds highest tides range upwards of 50 feet and the islands in the bay become "flower pots" with rock bottoms, sculpted by the tides, exposed at low tide and spruce trees growing on top. We arrived in time to go down a zillion steps to "walk on the ocean's floor" and see the rock caves at low tide. The bottom of the bay is hard rock with some huge "pebbles" strewn around.

Bay of Fundy

Windsor, Nova Scotia

Log Entry: Departed Glenholme at 8:00 AM for Glen Margaret, NS near Peggy's Cove via 104,102, 14, 103, 333 with a side trip to Windsor, NS, the birthplace of ice hockey, or" hurling on Ice", in the 1800's. In Windsor, toured Ft. Edward National Historic Site, whose 1750 blockhouse is the oldest in North America. Also toured Haliburton House, home of writer Judge Thomas Haliburton, creator of Sam Slick, the Yankee clock peddler. The 1836 "wooden villa" is plain outside but very spacious inside with large rooms including tvtIO partors and a dining room on the first floor, a maids room and kitchen prep room a half floor down, upstairs bedrooms at either side and a large cellar kitchen with a big fireplace and

many old utensils.

Haliburton House

Fort Edward

Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia

Log Entry: Continued on to Wayside Camping Park in St. Margarets to get a site and then went on to Peggy's Cove, a tiny granite rock strewn fishing village out on a point of land. It was started with 6 families in 1811 and now has a population of 120. It is so rocky, the few trees are two hundred years old and only three foot tall. The lighthouse, on the point, no longer serves as a beacon and is now Canada's only post office lighthouse. A monument to fishermen is carved in a large granite outcropping in the village.

The Lighthouse

Fisherman’s Monument

The Village

Fay in Bearskin Cap

Halifax, Nova Scotia Log Entry: Much to see in Halifax, starting with the Citadel. sitting high on a hill overlooking the harbor, built in 1750 and in use until 1956. The original Citadel on the same site was built by Prince Edward, Victoria's father. Actors in Highlander uniforms with kilts portrayed life in the barracks and guarding the fortifications. Six percent of the soldiers were permitted to marry and the wives served as "washer women" and slept in the same bed as their husbands, right in the barracks. Found out what is under a kilt. nothing. A long white shirt is worn under the uniform, that's all. The expression "the whole nine yards" comes from the fact that a kilt was made with nine yards of material. Saw the changing of the guard and heard the bagpipes played.

Changing of the Guard

Halifax, Nova Scotia

Log Entry: Leaving the van at the Citadel, we walked down a fairly steep hill, past the town clock and through a small park by city hall. to reach the waterfront area. Halifax harbor is the second deepest harbor in the world. Toured the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, with over 200 ship models, from sail to steam, and an exhibit on the Halifax Explosion, when in 1917 a ship collided with a munitions ship in fog, right in the harbor. A whole section of the city was leveled in moments, killing thousands. Artifacts from the sinking of the Titanic were also on display. Halifax being the nearest port. all the bodies were brought here.

Halifax Waterfront

Town Clock

HMCS Sackville CSS Arcadia

Halifax, Nova Scotia

Log Entry: Toured the CSS Arcadia, a 200 foot long research ship built in 1913, tied up on the dock behind the museum. Also toured the last remaining World War II convoy escort corvette, the HMCS Sackville, which is Canada's naval memorial. All decks on the Sackville were open, all the way from the bridge to the engine rooms. Wandered along the boardwalk skirting the docks to historic old town and had a late lunch outside on the water. Climbed through the streets of town and back to the Citadel to retrieve the van and continue on

our way by way of Dartmouth.

Log Entry: Toured The Alexander Graham Bell Historic Site in Baddeck which was Bell's summer home, he lived in Washington, DC. In addition to the invention of the telephone, Bell also worked with the deaf, his mother and wife were both deaf. to develop a system of teaching deaf people to speak. He also worked with Casey Baldwin on the development of hydrofoil boats toward the end of World War I and a huge twin liberty engine hydrofoil is housed in the museum. Four of the "Tall Ships" were at the harbor docks in Baddeck, including the Gazela from Philadelphia, and we walked down to see them.

Baddeck, Nova Scotia

Tall Ship Gazela

Log Entry: Leaving Baddeck, we started along the Cabot Trail which is named for John Cabot who discovered Cape Breton Island in 1497. The first section of the trail proceeds westward, from the Highlands, into pleasant farmland along the Margaree River. When the trail reaches the coast at Belle Cote, it heads North, over winding roads with plain, unadorned houses, to Cheticamp, an Acadian fishing village.

Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

The Cabot Trail

Log Entry: Turned inland and walked through "Bog" on a boardwalk over swampy land with stunted 150 year old black spruce only 3 feet tall and saucer like insect eating plants, one with an underwater bladder to catch bugs. Toured Lone Shieling, a 300 year old sugar maple forest with a Scottish sheep-crofter's hut. Took the scenic loop North back to the coast and White Point, then back down to Neil's Harbor. Left The Cabot Trail at Ann's Bay and continued on to North Sydney to do wash, grocery shop, sightsee and change more money. A pleasant surprise at North Sydney was the tall ship HMS Rose, a British man-of-war, at the city dock, with an outdoor stage musical revue going on, featuring bagpipes, singing, guitar, violin and Irish step dancing.

HMS Rose

Neil’s HarborCrofter’s Hut

Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia

Louisburg, Nova Scotia

Log Entry: Departed town of Louisburg to tour nearby Fortress of Louisburg National Historic Site. Nothing on TV but a test pattern before 7 AM. In 1961 the Canadian government undertook the reconstruction of one quarter of historic Fortress Louisburg to provide work for unemployed coal miners in the region. The reconstruction is the largest in North America, even bigger than Williamsburg, VA, and was possible because it was a planned city by the French in 1717, with the plans and drawings still available in Paris. On entering the fortress gate, a guard stops you to question whether you are a spy for the English, the current setting is the French and English War of 1744 and we spoke English, but he let us in.

Fortress Gate

Post and Beam Buildings

Log Entry: We took an hour and a half guided tour which pointed out construction methods for the three different building styles, log picket posts , post and beam and stone. Many of the stone buildings were sheathed, by the French, on the outside with wood to protect the mortar because of problems with it crumbling. The barricades along the harbor were also sheathed, and there were three fortified entries to the docks. Costumed guides roam the streets and are in the buildings and they wear either the clothes of the rich, with buckles and bows, or the plainer uniforms of French soldiers. Many houses and inns are fumished as well as the fortified military barracks on the hill overlooking the town area. The streets are lined with large stone curbing, which served as a run-off for slop jar and kitchen waste. We spent four hours touring the fortress and during that time we

saw the HMS Rose enter the harbor.

Louisburg, Nova Scotia

Barracks Quarters

Barracks

Chapel

Stone Building

Log Entry: Departed town of Antigonish for Cavendish, PEl crossing the new 9 mile long Confederation Bridge and with a stop in Charlottetown, captial of Prince Edward Island. We had decided to leave earlier to stop a little earlier. We stopped at the huge visitor's center near the bridge and it was jammed with people, busiest we've ever seen. Took the walking tour of Great George Street Historic District, the route walked by the Fathers of Confederation and stopped at Province House where we stood in Confederation Room, where the articles leading to the confederation of Canada were signed in 1864. We also saw the Gainsford House, oldest remaining brick structure on PEL Charlottetown was busy with many tourists and bands playing music by Province House.

Confederation Room

Gainsford House

Province House

Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island

Log Entry: Drove through the countryside to Cavendish on the North Coast. After lunch, we visited the recreated mythical "Green Gables" house from Anne of Green Gables, a popular young girls book from years ago by Lucy Maud Montgomery, who lived in Cavendish from girlhood. Cavendish has water parks, amusement rides, Ripley's, golf, etc. and is very crowded with lots of tourists and most motels and cabins had "No Vacancy" signs.

Cavendish, Prince Edward Island

Green Gables

Log Entry: Departed town of Cavendish St. John, driving through rollingfarmlands of potatoes, which Fay bought at a stand, and recrossing the Confederation Bridge, paying a $40 motorhome toll (pay leaving only) this time. Drove into center city and walked the Loyalist Trail which went through the Loyalist Cemetery and right through the roofed city market with stalls where we got groceries and pastry dessert. The roof resembles the inverted hull of a ship, and the market is the oldest Common Law Market in Canada with a charter granted by George III in 1785. Fire destroyed most of the old town and the oldest house still standing is from 1877. Drove to Falls View Park to see the Reversing Falls were the Bay of Fundy meets the St. John River at a narrow rock gorge. As the tide comes in, the bay rises into the river causing it to "back up". We saw it as the tide was going out and it really looked more like a rapids with whirlpools and a low "falls". St. John is another hilly seaport and we returned to the campground via with Ft. Howe lookout offering a spectacular view of the harbor.

St John, New Brunswick

Fort Howe View Reversing Falls

Log Entry: Continued on down coast of Maine to the fishing village of Lubec, where we crossed back through customs into Canada and onto Campobello Island. Visited Roosevelt Campobello International Park, run by both Canada and the U.S. to see Roosevelt Cottage. The visit started with a film and exhibits, followed by a self-guided tour of the grounds.

Lubec, Maine

Lubec from Camobello Island

Log Entry: Went through the Roosevelt Cottage, a rambling red and green house with 18 bedrooms furnished with iron beds, not fancy. Walked next door to Hubbard Cottage, home of friends and neighbors of F.D.R. It is a beautifully fumished home, far fancier than F.D.R.'s, and has a grand piano in the living room, which is connected to the entry hall by a triple open archway. The dining room has three tables and an huge oval window overlooking Friar's Bay on the Bay of Fundy. F.D.R. came to the island at the age of one in 1883. At that time, you took a train to Portland, ME and then an ocean steamer or private boat to get here. The cottage was built in 1897 and acquired by his mother, Sara, in 1909 it was given to him by Sara (but not deeded) when he married Eleanor. In 1915 he added a wing as the family grew. There was no electricity or telephone at that time. Roosevelt contracted Polio here in 1921 at the age of 39 and only returned three times, in 1933, 36 and 39 as president. Eleanor returned until her death. Several houses on the grounds are

used as conference centers, including Hubbard Cottage.

Campobello Island, Maine

Hubbard CottageInteriorRoosevelt Cottage

Lowell, MA

Weave Room

Log Entry: Arrived at Lowell National Historic Site. Took a 30 minute guided tour, only us, from the visitor's center, through city streets and along a canal to the Boott Cotton Mills, one of 11 originally in the area The mills all were actually on an island, surrounded by rivers and canals. When you enter the mill, you put your ticket in a time clock and it "punches you in". The 5-story brick mill features a 1920's era factory weave room filled with operating power looms. You wear earplugs going through the room and the floor vibrates. The ceiling beams between floors are "floating" not fixed in order to keep from eventually destroying the walls. The stairs between floors in the mill are in enclosed exterior towers to preserve floor space inside. Upstairs, there is a complete museum with exhibits and a slide show covering the Industrial revolution and the "factory system" of manufacturing. The floor upstairs shakes too.

Boarding Houses

Log Entry: The industrial revolution here lasted from the 1790's to 1956 when the last mill closed. Most others closed in the 20's. The mills were all strung out along the canals and boarding houses were located in front of them across a grassy area. Farm girls from the New England states were recruited to work in the mills. They had to live in the boarding houses and attend the company church, payment for both was deducted from their pay. Irish laborers built the canals to provide water to power the mills but were not permitted to work there and they lived in a separate "shanty town" away from the mills. Eventually immigrant labor was hired to work in the mills. We walked to a remaining boarding house which houses exhibits on the girl's rooms, two to a bed, four to a room and shows what meals were typically served. The exhibit has a separate section dedicated to all the different nationalities and their traditions in the Lowell area. The park service runs a free rebuilt open air trolley.

Lowell, MA

TrolleyIrish Canal Worker Monument

Gregg Graphics Gradyville, Pa.

A Presentation of