Veeocee Mountain (right centre) and Ubyssey Glacier (left), in the McBride Range of Garibaldi Park photo by Alaistair Macdonald

Th« Varsity Outdoor Quh

Journal

V O L U M E V m - 1965

7he VnivetMj of 3tiflih CoiumHa. Vancouver 8, B.C.

i

FRONTISPIECE PICTURE:

Veeocee Mountain (ca. 7750') lies in the McBride Range of Garibaldi Park. Referring to the map drawn by Bert Port in the VOC Journal Vol. VII, the mountain lies three miles south-east of Mt. Cheakamus—just off the map. When the pioneers of mountaineering in northern Garibaldi Park, the Carters, Mrs. P. Munday and the Hooleys, met with the mem­bers of the 1964 VOC Fitzsimmons Horseshoe Expedition to discuss new-name proposals for the area's unnamed features, it was commonly acknowledged that the VOC had, in the last twenty years, accomplished many outstanding mountaineering and ski-touring activities in Garibaldi Park. It was also agreed that these activities should be commemorated in the form of permanent geographic names for some of the park features. Proposed names were to be applied to prominent features and difficulty of ascent was to have no bearing on the selection.

Glacier-clad Veeocee Mtn. is located on the outer extremity of a ridge trending first south, then west and finally northwest from Mt. Sir Richard. North and below the mountain in a valley bottom lies Ubyssey Glacier. To the north of this icy highway is a high jagged ridge with four chisel-like prominences, now officially known as The Lectures Cutters (ca. 8100'-8400'). This ridge is a portion of the colossal Sir Richard massif»

VOC is greatly honoured that the Canadian Permanent Committee for Geographic Names and especially Messrs. J. Keith-Fraser and C. Young, have accepted these names of tribute. The proposals were officially recognized in August, 1965. For clarity on maps and to avoid confusion to the public, the committee asked us to accept the phonetic spelling of VOC and UBC.

As far as we can surmise, the features are, as of yet unclimbed. Let us hope that the first ascents are made by VOC'ers I!

Karl Ricker VOC President 1958-59

PRESIDENT'S ADDRESS

At the time of publication of this year's journal the Varsity Outdoor Club will be in­volved in its biggest and most ambitious undertaking of the past two decades—the financing and construction of a new cabin at Whistler Mtn. The implications and involvements that such a project requires can be fully appreciated only by those individuals who have helped to carry the initial idea through to reality. We pay tribute to these people. The present membership has raised a frame and has roofed and walled it. The future members will see the project through to completion.

With the passing of years VOC has increased in number and interests. These new and diverse interests must overcome one very serious obstacle—the rapid turnover in club mem­bership which is a natural product of university life. More than anything else, such a turn­over hampers the continuity of long-term projects and often makes it difficult even to carry an idea through from one year to the next.

The club activities include skiing and hiking, conservation and climbing, banquets and books. Each year we strive for new approaches and improvements to these more-or-less "regular'fclub activities.

Less well known are the potentials of the future—the completion of our new cabin; the construction of trails and possibly of a series of alpine huts; the realization of an artificial climbing rock; Mountain Rescue and first-aid training; the expansion and promotion of the club's library, maps and climbing reports... The list is limited only by us, and we have time, youth, and ambition.

Randy Harrison President 1965-1966

V.O.C. EXECUTIVE 1965-1966

Honorary President and Vice-President Mr. and Mrs. T. A. Kennedy

President Vice-President Secretary Treasurer Cabin Marshall Climbing Chairman Archivist Journal Editor Membership Chairman Public Relations Officer

iirman Bob Woodsworth Vera Rosenbluth

Dr Nina Locke Chairman Hank Reid ions Officer Peter Thompson

Joy Stanley Ann Nodwell Dave Zuest Les Watson

Randy Harrison

V.O.C. EXECUTIVE 1964-1965 Honorary President and Vice-President

Mr. and Mrs. R. Deane President Vice-President Secretary Treasurer Cabin Marshall Climbing Chairman Archivist Journal Editor Membership Chairman Public Relations Officer

Dave Higgins Janet Rusler Joy Stanley Henning Freybe Dave Hardie Peter Thompson Robin Kennedy Carolyn Young Hart Pfortmueller Alan Whetter

iii

EDITOR'S MESSAGE

The "outdoor" in our club's name brings to mind many varied activities: rock-climbing, skiing, touring, mountaineering, work-hikes, hikes - the list is inexhaustable. The fact that we are a club invites other activities: dancing, parties, banquets, meetings, cabin-building and so on. The "Varsity" which precedes it describes us: young, energetic, and willing.

This Journal is an attempt to represent all of these many and varied facets of our club. W e hope that it gives the people outside of our club an idea of some of our yearly activities.

Every year there is a different emphasis expressed in the club. This year's activities have been dominated by the building of our new Whistler cabin at Alta Lake. W e feel that this project deserves all the recognition and attention we can give it - and we have tried the best we can to represent it justly in the Journal.

W e would like to see an increase in exploratory and mountaineering articles in the Journal. With the notable exception of the Bute Inlet trip, there is a lack of these trips. W e have tried to compensate for this lack with an increase in climbing reports and historical articles. W e are grateful to Dr. Neal Carter (an honorary member of VOC and grad of '25), for his interesting article on the Fitzsimmons-Alta Lake area, and to Mr. Art Morton (an old member VOC'er who has been a great friend of the Club's for years) for his amusing and enlightening article on the history of VOC.

In the past few years rock-climbing has become increasingly popular. Although we are not strictly a climbing club, we feel that rock climbing should be promoted and we encourage climbers to write up any new routes so that we can make them available to other climbers; members and non-members as well.

This year we have made some technical changes in the Journal, mainly to improve its appearance, and to give it a more professional look.

I would like to thank m y committee for their invaluable help and advice; ito the contribu­tors I express m y sincere thanks; and to you the reader, may you enjoy our interpretation of the Varsity Outdoor Club 1!

Nina Locke Editor 1964-65

JOURNAL C O M M I T T E E

Editor Assistant Editor Assisting the Editor

Nina Locke Sue Knibbs Tim Auger

Ex Officio Photography

Marion Boyd Judy Mac Kay Lynn Morton Carolyn Young Denny Hewgill

TABLE OF CONTENTS

Frontispiece Picture Karl Ricker • • i President's Address Randy Harrison ii V.O.C. Executive ii Editor's Message Nina Locke iii

A. GENERAL CLUB ACTIVITIES WINTER AND SPRING 1964-1965

Winter Social Activities Janet Rusler 1 Awards Editor 3 Grad News Vera Rosenbluth 3 Autumn Activities

Marmot Creek - A New Route Peter Thompson 5 Rock School Dick Culbert 5 The New Clubroom Randy Harrison 6 Mountaineering School Peter Thompson 6 Kakademon Kloset Peter Thompson 6 Mt. Boston Bruce McKnight 7

Christmas Trips Spelunking Alice Purdey 7 Kimberly Henning Freybe 8 Big White Alistair Thompson 8 Rossland Ann Nodwell 8

Winter Activities Ski School Randy Harrison 9 An Enticing Advertisment Peter Thompson 9 Garibaldi Traverse Peter Thompson 9 Apex Marg Latimer 10 Olympic Beach Traverse - Southern Party Ted Swanson 11 Olympic Beach Traverse - Northern Party F. de la Haye

Ethel LansM 13 "Skiillusion" - poem Dick Culbert 15

Garibaldi Springtime Sphinx Camp Lynn Morton 16

Whistler V.O.C. Developments at Whistler • • • John Boyle 16 Wonderous Whistler Workers Judy MacKay 19

B. SUMMER ACTIVITIES 1965

Mt. Hood Jim Whittaker 21 Bowen Island Duncan Etches 21 Galiano Island Linda Lasalle 22 Monte Cristo and Cadet Pete Macek 22 Buttle Lake Sue Knibbs 24 Singing Pass Carole Fiske 25 V. O. C. Boys in the Bush Asgar Bentzen

Al Whetter Glenn Woodsworth Randy Harrison Peter Thompson 26

C. EXPEDITIONS AND CLIMBING NOTES

Bute Inlet to Pemberton Epic Anne and Dennis Holden Jane and Byron Olson 28

Five Fingers Bob Woodsworth 31 Squamish Chief Area

New Routes at Squamish Hamish Mutch 31 North Arete Bob Woodsworth 32 North North Arete Bob Woodsworth 34 Grand Wall Tim Auger 34

Climbing on Campus Dick Culbert 36

C . E X P E D I T I O N S A N D C L I M B I N G N O T E S (Continued)

T h e Cleveland C a p e r • • • Arthur's Seat (Art's Ass) • Phyllis's Engine T w o to P e r u M o r e A n d e a n Ascents • • T h e Tetons Glossary

Dick Culbert • Alice P u r d e y • Dick Culbert • H a m i s h M u t c h • J o h n Ricker • • H a m i s h M u t c h •

37 37 39 39 40 40 42

D . H I S T O R I C A L A R T I C L E S

V . O . C . Genesis Alta L a k e - F i t z s i m m o n s C r e e k A r e a

A r t M o r t o n • Neal Carter •

43 44

E . S P E C I A L P R O J E C T S

Conservation

F i t z s i m m o n s N o m e n c l a t u r e M o u n t a i n A c c e s s C o m m i t t e e

Sue Knibbs B a r b M i o d u z e w s k a , 47 B e r t Port • • 47 B e r t P o r t 48

I L L U S T R A T I O N S

V e e o c e e M o u n t a i n Winter Social Activities O l y m p i c National P a r k Building the C a b i n at Whistler M t n • V . O . C . 's N e w C a b i n at Alta L a k e • T h o s e Whistler W o r k e r s M o n t e Cristo F i t z s i m m o n s ' C a b i n in Singing P a s s Cliff H a n g e r s a n d R o c k H o u n d s • • • Climbing o n C a m p u s T h e Barrier O n the S q u a m i s h Chief

frontispiece 2

12 17 18 20 23 23 33 36 38 41

M A P

Bute Inlet to P e m b e r t o n 29

1 G E N E R A L C L U B ACTIVITIES-WINTER A N D SPRING 1964-1965

W I N T E R SOCIAL ACTIVITIES 1S64-65 Janet Rusler

Once again, one poor soul must tie herself into a chair and try to get her mind to recall coherently some of the details that went into those great parties in the midst of which VOC'ers always seem to find themselves. Then this poor soul must write them down so that sometime some sentimental slob can snivel over them recalling how things used to be when he was in VOC. But then again... it was the last year VOC headquarters were on Seymour.

As always, the year started out with a swinger of an Old Members' Party at P a m Hod­gson's. There was the usual congested living room full of girls gabbing and boys, fresh from "Beautiful B. C. 's" bush, gawking. People downstairs were demonstrating the new dances acquired in the Banff social center.

The Splash and Dance, in true V O C tradition, was dry. And how can the girls who splashed compete with those who just came to dance? (they had dry hair, yet!) The nerve! ... Oh well, anyone can sing later. .. and everyone does when it's to Al Whetter's guitar and Ken MacKenzie's aecordian.

Clubs' Day-a huge success. It must have been to get the membership over the 300 mark. And I think it was Jim Fowler (?) who got stuck on a rope hanging from the ceiling... I guess it was a good vantage point from which to watch the Dance Club tangoing next door.

Long Hike-ah yes, I remember Long Hike! For once there was sun! And football games and swimming (some fully clothed), and a singsong on the beach under the stars with a big fire blazing (or trying to at least), and the kitchen crew eating fresh prawns. And, oh yes, the hike - eighty-three people on top of Mt. Wrottesley, and the spectacle of the trusty Holly­burn rolling home under the weight of two hundred and twenty VOC'ers-to-be. Camp Potlach just has to be the ideal long hike location.

Short Long Hike was at Whistler this year. Some of the tents at Alice Lake camp were collapsed by a Vancouver crew who roared up in the middle of the night. Or, at least, they were supposed to have been. They had to tell them finally because the "joke" was ignored. Some people's sense of humor has to be prodded now and then, I guess. Despite the thirty mile drive from camp, about seventy "keeners" made it to the 7118' summit to over the vast alpine surroundings of our new home to be. By the way the peak was an altitude record for V O C long hikes.

M y toes are still flat from being stomped on at the "Shakesperean Shake" Hallowe'en Party. Dances had to be held in relays, yet! Then there was the lovely Hank Reid, Ted Swanson in basic black... and the eternal workhikes on Sunday - chopping wood, of course, and washing the floor for the fourth time that fall (never to be done again till the following fall).

Mustn't forget the Kakademon Kloset parties at the Squamish Chief - an innovation by Pete Peeler, billed as the "main event of the social season". Only casualty was Lou Beau-chemin who disappeared into a hole.

Ah... the Caroling Party... it was blessed with powder snow! Thirty VOC'ers traipsed off into the snow in the University area alternately bellowing Jingle Bell Rock and warbling Winter Wonderland. "Let's sing No. 61!" "No! I want No. 34!" Zot! - another one bites the snow .. .oh well, there's lots of hot chocolate at Pam's place.

And New Year's Eve - the longest party in V O C history - lasted over two days - seems they got snowed in! But that turkey - oh that turkey! And all those girls stuck there with all those boys - too bad some of the intrepid Korabushka dancers got strangled in the ceiling decorations...

Well, the Seymour Gathering was so jammed with vying Christmas trip factions that there was barely room for fights to take place between the various groups over where there was the most powder snow. And judging from the quality of the skiing of the seventy "odd" participants in the Dam Downhill the next day, I'd say very few of the professed two hundred or so interior skiers did little more than bird-dogging during those glorious holidays.

O P E N HOUSE "Once upon a time. VOC SLUSH C U P

... in a land far away.

3 The VOC Open House was once again the scene of two hundred, plus or minus a few,

stompers... and those naughty chorus lines... Pink Panthers yet! Maybe that was the attract­ion for so many members this year! But to think that some of our boys have talents in the ballet linel They were beautiful! That judge, though, a "Stirling" member of the girls' grasshockey team somehow stole the show. Then a mad rush to set up the excellent Con­servation and Garibaldi displays for our snow-sogged visitors on Sunday.

And to end it all once again, there was the Reunion Banquet. Girls were in dresses, boys, unrecognizable in ties, and this year even a band was added. Carole Russell was awarded the Silver Pin. Don Lyon's narrative of his Himalayan trip was unforgettable. After watching his slides and listening to him, we realized just what there is waiting for us to see and do when VOC is far behind.

AWARDS

SILVER PIN. This is awarded to a member of VOC who has shown interest in and given service to the club beyond what is normally expected from a member. This year, for a pleasant change, the silver pin (a silver VOC pin) was awarded to a girl - Carole Russell! For a number of years Carole has been chief "food quarter-master" and has organized the food for many Garibaldi and Long Hike trips.

DAM DOWNHILL. The ingredients of a successful Dam Downhill are: 30 slalom poles, 140 skis and poles and 70 eager competitors. The results:

Men Girls Class A Bryce Howard Class A Barb Deane Class B Dave MacNamara Class B Vera Rosenbluth Class C Jim Stevens Class C Rita van Snellenberg

STEEPLE CHASE. This competition is another, traditional VOC activity. Starting from a pile of tangled skis and poles outside the cabin with about two miles of uphill, poetry recita­tion, lemon sucking, whistling with one's mouth full of Quaker Oats and climbing through bi­cycle tires with one's skis onl The results:

Men - Blair Smith Girls - Nina Locke

PHOTOGRAPHY COMPETITION. This is an annual competition; the awards are presented at the VOC Banquet in March, this year under the critical eye of Glenn Woodsworth.

Class A - A Mountain Scene Class B - Climbing or Skiing Class C - Natural History Class D - Portrait Class E - Club Activity Class F - Miscellaneous Best slide in the competition

GRAD NEWS Vera Rosenbluth

WHISTLER

Bruce McKnight Bruce McKnight Ian Stirling Axel Kellner Bruce McKnight John Hembling Axel Kellner

Every week-end, more grads come up to the Whistler cabin site to see what's going on there. Asa matter of fact, most of the driving forces behind the project are grads. BYRON OLSON, our architect, has postponed his trip to Sweden and is spending long hours at the drafting board instead. He and JANE spend most of their "free time" at the site. JACK STATHERS, (grad '55), was elected to the Whistler committee and his advice has been inval­uable. BRUCE AND DIANE WARD are back in Vancouver from New Zealand and Bruce has practically taken over the financial aspect of the cabin and is masterminding the sale of the Mt. Seymour cabin. Many others have spent every week-end since the middle of the summer surveying, pounding nails, sawing lumber, giving orders; people like KARL RICKER, CHARLEY DAUGHNEY, JACK BOULDING, TONY LYTTLE, ROLAND BURTON, NEIL ALWAY, and others to whom we owe a great deal. Mr. and Mrs. JIM GARDINER, Mr. and Mrs. JACK RATJCLIFFE, Mr. and Mrs. ART MORTON, Dr. and Mrs. N.A. MACKENZIE, Mr. and Mrs. CLARE WILLIS, CHUCK BOYD, Mr. and Mrs. J. FAIRLEY, Mr. and Mrs. BRIAN LEDING-HAM are among those who have managed to find their way to the cabin.

4

N O R T H AMERICA

DON "BROWNIE" P O O L E spent a lot of time at Whistler before leaving for Edmonton where he is studying P. E. at U. of A. JUANITA C O W E L L is working for B.C. Hydro in Van­couver. DICK CULBERT'S Climbing Guide to the Coast Range was published in May and is a really worthwhile addition to any library. H A R R Y CUDDIE is working for Kennco in town. DEAN "the last of the Boy Puritans" G O A R D is wowing the sweet young things in Kamloops where he is teaching. C A R O L E RUSSELL is also teaching at Tod - whoops, I mean Kamloops. SUE T A T U M is working for the Faculty of Agriculture at UBC. ANN PROVOST is attending a photography college in Santa Barbara where she is enjoying it immensely except for the lack of outdoor sports. BRIAN and SUE (Saxton) D'AOUST and their two young boys are living in San Diego where Brian is doing his Ph. D. in Marine Biology. When HU N A Y L O R came down from the northern country this fall, he announced his engagement to JANET RUSLER and plans are to go north again next summer.

PAT BROCK, after a sojourn to the Rhodesian Copper Belt was seen on campus this autumn. B O B P O T T E R has temporarily side-lined his geological and musical career and is now studying architecture at UBC. KEN HUNT after three months of job-searching in Van­couver (and skiing with VOC) is now working in Guelph, Ontario. JOHN HEMBLBSfG is work­ing on some sort of constructive undertaking in the North Thompson area. SUSIE LEUCHTE, JERI-LOU SIMPSON, DIANA YATES, the frontier girls are all teaching school in the Prince George-Vanderhoof area. BILL S H U T T L E W O R T H and H E L E N were married in November '65. Bill's best man, JOHN FAIRLEY, has lately come into a quality no younger VOC'ers possess! He is now in the Quesnel Lake country.

Going further east, JEAN FINLEY, is studying in Montreal. NICK and JENNY CLOSE are back in Montreal after a bit of world travelling. G E O R G E "Gimx" H E A D L E Y is in Quebec somewhere. JOHN HAMILTON is engineering in Toronto. JOHN PRINGLE is still in Chalk River.

Weddings! Must be contagious or something. BILL B O Y D and MARION (Gardiner) were married in May and are now living on campus as Marion is taking her Masters in Social Work and Bill, his degree in Phys. Ed. SANDY and BETSY (Ferguson) L O C K H A R T were married at the beginning of the summer and are now in Smithers. In July, BILL T U P P E R and FRAN (Pagan) tied the knot and two weeks later, DON LYON and H E A T H E R (Overton) followed suit. Heather is apparently the only girl who can match Don's wit and keep up to him on the trails. Don is working for Shell Oil in Calgary. SANDY and ROBIN (Kennedy) ROBIN­SON became Mr. and Mrs. in October '65. A month later IAN and STELLA (Barbour) STIRL­ING got married and promptly left for New Zealand.

AUSTRALIA-NEW Z E A L A N D

Seems to be all the rage! (I mean going to New Zealand, but it could apply equally well to getting married!) RIC "Big Chief" SEBASTIAN, after teaching for a while in Australia, decided to do some more travelling. Claimed he couldn't walk down the street without running into a VOC'er. P E T E R BENSON ran into R O Y H Y N D M A N and started a grand tour of the continent. KIM D E A N E and GILL (Broach) have been in New Zealand for a year where Kim has been teaching. Ric, Peter and Kim plan to enter the Himalayas, where they are now heading. Gill Deane, accompanied by B A R B DEANE, has left for England and will stay until Kim joins them and then will return to Vancouver in July.

E U R O P E

BRIAN SCARFE returned to Vancouver from England, took time out to get married (to SUSAN C L A R K E ) and returned to England. DAVE HIGGINS, in South Hampton doing grad work in engineering, has his eye on Switzerland for Christmas skiing. D A V E HARDIE is touring the continent. LOU B E A U C H E M I N has set up temporary residence in London. D A V E M A C R A E ("Honey Chile") is motor-cycling through Europe at present. Says he's going to stay there for a few years. HENNING FREYBE is studying at the University of Munich in Germany.

5

AFRICA

DENNIS and ANN HOLDEN left for Nigeria in October. After getting enthusiastic post­cards from the Bahamas (that's on the way to Nigeria??) we hear that they are enjoying their new home very much. JOHN AUSTIN ("Oz") is also in Nigeria working for the same company as Dennis. CATHY FINLEY is still teaching in the Cameroons on the CUSO plan. PARKER WILLIAMS and ANNE LEE were married during the summer and are now in Tan­zania teaching. JOHN and MARY DICK along with WENDY SUTTON are also in Tanzania.

JOHN RICKER was last heard from climbing in Peru with KEN BAKER. Ken returned to Banff in September while John accepted a mining geology job in Equador.

DAVE and LINDA KENNEDY are still working in a hospital in Ratlam, India where Dave is responsible for a small leprosy clinic. BOB and DI MACFARLANE are keeping pace with forestry in East Pakistan.

AUTUMN ACTIVITIES

MARMOT CREEK - A NEW ROUTE

Nov. 1. 1964 Peter Thompson*

Marmot Creek, the back-door approach to the fabulous Sky Pilot area, has only been used in the past two or three years. This route is faster and more interesting than the old route via the Cabin and Lake Utopia. The route is as follows:

Drive the seven miles from Britannia Beach to the Upper Townsite. Leave the car at the Townsite Lake and follow the logging road which continues up the northern side of the main valley. Three quarters of a mile further east Marmot Creek crosses the road. Pro­ceed to the next bend and charge up the spur road which switchbacks up through the slash. From the end of the spur you make an ascending traverse across the slash and into the big timber. As you head up Marmot Creek (north), it makes a right angle turn to the east about half a mile from the edge of the logging slash. This is the entrance to a narrow U-shaped glacial cirque—the glacier is gone.

There is a bushy ridge on the right, Co-Pilot and a row of spectacular-looking pinnacles (all pseudos) on the left. Straight ahead, the South Ridge of Sky Pilot forms the head wall of the cirque. It is easy, open, alpine-type going all the way up the valley.

There are no technical difficulties in scrambling up the headwall. From the base of Sky Pilot's South Ridge it's up to you; high-angle rock climbing on the Tombstone, Ledglet or the south face of Ledge; low-angle rock climbing on Sky Pilot; or idyllic meadow-wandering through alplands. A pleasing circuit is possible into the area via Marmot Creek, through flower-strewn meadows and little mountain lakes near Ben Lomond, and out via Lake Utopia and the regular approach route.

*N. B. Peter Thompson - otherwise known as Peter "Peeler".

ROCK SCHOOL Dick Culbert

In 1964 the annual rock school was literally an overwhelming success. Fifty people in Murrin Park is overdoing it just a little bit for personalized training, but spreading parties out onto cliffs at Britannia and towards Squamish helped a bit. The weather was beautiful and fun was had by all, what with rappeling, chimneying, prussicking, and all the other strange rituals of roped climbing.

Wet slabs at Squamish telescoped all intermediate parties onto the Kiddies Korner route of the Squaw, creating a lamentable traffic jam. Despite such difficulties it was the most successful rock school within memory of participants.

Other scheduled rock climbs on Siwash Rock (at noon-hour) and Trestle Tower in Cheak­amus Canyon demonstrated the potential of short low-altitude rock routes in winter.

6

T H E N E W C L U B R O O M Oct., 1964 R a n d y H a r r i s o n

A t long last V O C h a s a n e w B I G clubroom. Located behind Brock, at the opposite end of the huts f r o m the previous clubroom, the club's n e w c a m p u s a c c o m m o d a t i o n is m a r k e d by the club n a m e a n d crest painted outside the door.

Lavish (?) interior decor includes bright turquoise-green walls, variously-coloured bur­lap curtains a n d a "way-off-yellow" cocktail-bar chesterfield. Black a n d white photos and posters a d d a finishing touch - a n d also cover u p the unpainted parts of the wall.

A four-hour construction job and $13. 50 w o r t h of lumber f r o m one of the old a r m y huts produced a n office to be used for general storage purposes, m i m e o a n d typing w o r k , a n d c o m -m U t e e meetings. A m p l e bulletin boards in the m a i n r o o m provide information o n all club activities: C h r i s t m a s ski-trips, climbing n e w s , transportation, Conservation, a n d personal notes. T h e club library is being updated and indexed (along with several h u n d r e d dollars' worth of m a p s ) a n d will be m a d e m o r e readily available to club m e m b e r s .

M O U N T A I N E E R I N G S C H O O L N o v 14-15,1964 Peter T h o m p s o n

Mountaineering School w a s a n attempt to get a w a y f r o m the rock-climbing-oriented V O C training p r o g r a m s of the past. Fifty people attended the school--which w a s a n attempt to climb S k y Pilot, 6616', the highest peak ; n the mountainous region east of Britannia B e a c h . T h e w e a t h e r w a s good but the snow, knee-deepishly soft, left something to b e desired. T w o approach routes w e r e used. O n e group of thirteen V O C ' e r s spent the night in the old Sky Pilot Cabin a n d climbed the South Ridge of the m o u n t a i n to the s u m m i t . T h e larger party c a m e up M a r m o t C r e e k a n d attempted the regular route f r o m the East Col. T i m e and the large n u m b e r of inexperienced people prevented this group f r o m going higher than the East Col. O n e rope (with people at either end) f r o m the large party m a n a g e d to charge up a n d d o w n the South Ridge Route before dark. Instruction w a s to be provided throughout the climb ( m u c h i m p r o v e ­m e n t is n e e d e d in this area). H o w e v e r , a large group of people w h o h a d h a d no experience with mountains or mountaineering w e r e given a first-hand introduction. I think w e converted a few.

K A K A D E M O N K L O S E T A u t u m n , 1964 Peter T h o m p s o n

A combination dinner party, m a r s h m a l l o w roast, and singsong w e r e the high points of the V O C social s e a s o n of 1964-1965. T h e K a k a d e m o n Kloset is a large cave f o r m e d beneath the house-sized boulders w h i c h have b r o k e n f r o m the G r a n d Wall of the S q u a m i s h Chief. E v e n in the w o r s t d o w n p o u r the place r e m a i n s dry and, consequently, singsongs take place rain or shine. T h e r e w e r e two K a k a d e m o n Social Evenings this year, with a total of 130 people attending. T h e sales pitch goes like this:

"Well group! This is it. T h e w e e k e n d to e n d all w e e k e n d s . T h e w e e k e n d to end the fall climbing schedule. T h e excuse, "I have to study", is not enough to m i s s a swinging K a k a ­d e m o n Kloset Singsong. This exciting event takes place o n Sunday evening, a time w h e n no one does m u c h studying. T h e thing to do is c r a m intensely Saturday a n d Sunday until 4 p . m . T h e n fill your car with other V O C ' e r s , enough to take care of the g a s expense, a n d h e a d for S q u a m i s h . "

T h e magnificent scenery encountered along H o w e Sound h a s b e e n c o m p a r e d favourably with the F r e n c h Riviera! Steep-sided m o u n t a i n peaks rise abruptly out of the blue waters of the Sound, soaring to heights over 5000'. A s the sky behind G a m b i e r Island turns gold with the sunset, all worries about e x a m s a n d studying are forgotten. Y o u are heading for a n even­ing filled with laughter, m u s i c a n d song.

D a r k n e s s h a s fallen b y the time y o u reach the parking lot at the foot of the Chief. A guide with a h e a d l a m p leads the carload of laughing, joking V O C ' e r s along a n a r r o w path, across shaky log bridges over seemingly bottomless black c h a s m s , a n d finally through the c r a w l w a y entrance to the cave. Inside, the a t m o s p h e r e is w a r m , s m o k y , a n d filled with the melodies of a typical V O C singsong. T h e flickering light f r o m a roaring bonfire illuminates the overhanging granite walls a n d the happy faces of the singers. R o a s t e d m a r s h m a l l o w s are passed a r o u n d a s y o u look for a place to sit. Y o u have arrived! N o w o p e n your songbook a n d S I N G !

7

M T . B O S T O N — C A S C A D E P A S S A R E A O c t . 25,1964 B r u c e M c K n i g h t

O n Saturday m o r n i n g our group,which consisted of Al Whetter, Gail Robinson, P a t B r o w n -s w o r d , R o b i n Bolton, T o n y Knittel, Bill B o y d , Marion(Gardiner) B o y d a n d B r u c e M c K n i g h t (leader) h e a d e d south to M a r b l e m o u n t w h e r e w e h a d lunch. F r o m h e r e it w a s a thirty m i l e drive o n a fair gravel road to our jumping-off place.

W e didn't exactly j u m p off, rather w e strolled off, a n d spent a leisurely t w o h o u r s w a l k ­ing u p the trail to our campsite, ten minutes below the B o s t o n Basin.

N e x t m o r n i n g the w e a t h e r w a s poor, with s n o w a n d fog, but it s h o w e d signs of i m p r o v i n g so w e p r o c e e d e d u p into the Basin a n d along the trail atop a m o r a i n e ridge. F r o m h e r e our route led u p the right side of B o s t o n Glacier t o w a r d the col b e t w e e n M t . Boston, 8900', a n d M t . Sahale. T h e fresh s n o w a n d hot s u n o n the glacier s l o w e d u s s o m e w h a t , but there w e r e no technical difficulties.

Eventually our three r o p e d parties arrived at the ridge a n d enjoyed a spectacularly situated lunch astride a knife-edge. A t this point Al, Gail, M a r i o n a n d P a t decided to start d o w n since it w a s unlikely that all of u s could r e a c h the s u m m i t u n d e r the present conditions -s n o w a n d verglas-covered rocks.

T h e rest of u s cautiously traversed out onto the right face of the ridge a n d a r o u n d to the face below the s u m m i t . I took three leads u p the face through grade four rock a n d verglas. H e r e w e r e a c h e d a ledge about fifty feet directly below the s u m m i t w h e r e w e w e r e confronted with a g r a d e five pitch. Piton-less, I s c r a m b l e d u p the pitch a n d rather shakily r e a c h e d the s u m ­m i t w h e r e the blowing s n o w gave m e a chilly reception.

It w a s 4 p. m . a n d the w e a t h e r w a s deteriorating, so I decided against bringing u p m y stalwart belayers. Instead I quickly rappelled d o w n to the ledge a n d the four of u s belayed our w a y d o w n the face in the approaching dark.

W e hurried b a c k a c r o s s to the ridge a n d d o w n to the glacier. It w a s 6 p. m a n d totally d a r k w h e n w e arrived at c a m p . It took u s another t w o h o u r s to grope a n d stumble b a c k d o w n the trail to our cars w h e r e the others w e r e waiting.

T w e l v e h o u r s later our a m u s e d c l a s s m a t e s w a t c h e d u s trying to k e e p a w a k e in our r e ­spective 8:30 lectures!

C H R I S T M A S T R I P S

S P E L U N K I N G D e c . 1964 Alice P u r d e y

Spelunking*. This s o u n d e d like a n interesting w a y to s p e n d the vacation so w h y not? Early o n Boxing D a y , Dick Culbert, D a n Tate ( B C M C ) , a n d Alice P u r d e y c r o w d e d into a heat-erless t o m a t o - c a n ( V W Van) a n d h e a d e d east—eventual destination, C a d o m i n , Alta. After m i s s i n g a r e n d e z v o u s in Calgary with our fourth party m e m b e r , flat tires in the m i d d l e of n o ­w h e r e , a n d sleeping in the v a n in -30 weather, w e eventually r e a c h e d E d m o n t o n a n d m e t D a v e , a n E n g l i s h m a n in G r a d C h e m i s t r y , w h o w a s to a c c o m p a n y us. D a v e h a d h a d considerable e x ­perience spelunking in England.

T h e cave, about 1000' up a hillside, p r o v e d to b e slimy but nonetheless intriguing. It w a s about 1500' long a n d consisted of side branches, a caverno u s r o o m at the end, layered p a s s a g e ­w a y s , a n d of course, bats.

In E d m o n t o n , m o r e engine trouble forced u s to spend the N e w Year's w e e k e n d with D a v e , w h o h a p p e n e d to live only two blocks f r o m the U . of A . c a m p u s . R a d i o w a r n i n g s of cold w e a t h e r did not stop u s f r o m m a r k i n g the arrival of 1965 b y climbing a few of their buildings. R o u t e s w e r e not immediately obvious a n d the c a m p u s Patrol s e e m e d extremely active, but w e did m a n a g e to climb a few. T h e s e included a n ascent of the m e n ' s d o r m with escape d o w n the spiral chute of a silo-like fire escape. A h o m e - m a d e U B C flag w a s then hoisted u p the flag staff o n top of a m a i n building in high w i n d s a n d biting cold weather.

T h e h o m e w a r d - b o u n d journey w a s without incident. All told, the holiday, being rather

8

unusual, w a s certainly m e m o r a b l e .

cave exploration

K I M B E R L Y S K I T R I P D e c . 1964 Henning F r e y b e

T h e annual C h r i s t m a s ski trip to K i m b e r l y w a s again very successful. S o m e fifty students gathered in the K i m b e r l y Cabin Court, w h e r e limited facilities in s o m e units did little to diminish the enthusiasm of its occupants. Hats off to the ten skiers w h o , after c o m i n g d o w n f r o m a few days touring in the L a k e Louise area, found little r o o m in the C a b i n Court, but still m a n a g e d to survive in a cabin w h e r e previously four boys h a d barely m a n a g e d to squeeze in.

This year w e w e r e blessed with fresh p o w d e r s n o w every day. In fact, it s n o w e d a little too m u c h for s o m e people. S o m e interesting highlights w e r e : the trip to the m i n e a n d the c o n ­centrator; the superb N e w Year's dinner a n d the party at the Stanley's; the Salty D o g R a g p e r f o r m e d b y c o s t u m e d V O C ' e r s o n N e w Year's D a y o n the ski slope for the other skiers and followed b y a sing-song in the Chalet; a n d last but definitely not least, the t r e m e n d o u s skiing o n the 1 1/4 mile hill.

O n e h u m o r o u s postscript (to everyone but the participant) involved a V O C m e m b e r w h o , after having n u m e r o u s troubles with his old Austin, finally b e c a m e so fed u p that he sold it in C r a n b r o o k for $20, a s h e started his trip back, a n d took the b u s h o m e . H e n o w drives a dependable n e w car. All in all, it w a s a wonderful skiing holiday.

A d ark night, D e c e m b e r 26th, twenty miles out f r o m K e l o w n a , through a gate, 300 yards without a flashlight along a f a r m track and there it w a s - three r o o m s d o w n a n d a loft u p ­stairs, T h e G r a n d Hotel Big White. S o o n the guests b e g a n to arrive a n d dribbled in for days after, n e w m e m b e r s a n d the venerable old w h o h a d smelled f r o m m a n y m i l e s the delights of free a c c o m m o d a t i o n a n d gastronomic fantasies (turkey a n d m u s h ) . T w e n t y miles to the ski hill a n d the lift with o d d shapes disappearing up into the clouds. W h a t a r u n ! It only took a continuous 10 y a r d visibility to m a k e each m o g u l a mountain, each tree a mistress. Off the m a i n track there w a s p o w d e r , deep a n d exciting. A n d in the evenings there w e r e guitars a n d sing-songs. O n N e w Y e a r s E v e w e h a d M u r d e r in the loft, Kool-aid a n d dancing to J i m m y Shand. D a v e Higgins' car s n o w pushers h a d a crazy w e e k d o w n o n the f a r m while the c o w s just stared in stark a m a z e m e n t .

T h e night w e arrived fresh fallen s n o w lay all around. Light a n d feathery, it sparkled in the moonlight a n d the billows of s n o w fell back u p o n the path w e m a d e a s w e w a l k e d along. S o m e fell into our boots, cold a n d tingling to the touch.

Hidden partly by the snow, the cabin sat small, cold, a n d distant o n a small knoll. B u t then w e s a w the inside - the huge stove in the middle of the floor w h i c h w a s to provide so m u c h w a r m t h ; the nets dangling f r o m the roof w h i c h w e r e soon to b e overladen with clothes; the orderly eating utensils a n d dining table, a n d the seven inviting b u n k - b e d s .

T h e cabin b e c a m e h o m e for the holiday. Full of w a r m t h and laughter a n d clothes a n d people. W e all r e m e m b e r — t h e "case toads", St. Taggart with his ethnic p a j a m a s , the "fine" F r e n c h essay a n d ethnic animal-skin-cover-all, Benson's off-key ethnic Irish voice, Hank's s e w e d - u p clothes a n d ethnic "you'll pay", Joy's s n o w - p l o w s a n d ethnic falls, Pash's birthday party, Al's ethnic guitar a n d neat parking habits — like behind a dangerously close b u s while three c o w a r d s in the b a c k seat cringed either because of the scene in the front seat, or the dangerously close bus. A n d everything w a s "Oubilioo" a n d all that...

T h e sleep-ins w e r e great. A n d there w e r e a few early m o r n i n g s — A n easy slide d o w n to the tow - except w h e n y o u h a d no skiis a n d h a d to balance o n the b a c k of Taggart's. A n d s o m e t i m e s at night the m o u n t a i n lit up a n d hung beside the cabin. T h e n there w a s night skiing a n d flying leaps over shaded m o g u l s .

B I G W H I T E D ec.1964 Alistair T h o m s o n

R O S S L A N D D e c . 1964 A n n Nodwell

9 Of course, we're all super-skiers now. And at least some of us can reach the bottom

of a hill still standing!

WINTER ACTIVITIES

SKI SCHOOL Jan. -Feb., 1965 Randy Harrison

At the start of the spring term the club initiated a weekend ski school on Mt. Seymour. Instructors were drawn from the ranks of those who could stand up on skis longer than anyone else, and a schedule of three lessons per class was established, there being about eighty people divided into ten classes.

The original intention had been to have three categories of lessons - beginner, inter­mediate, and advanced. However, it was soon obvious that the latter category was unrealis­tic as no-one could ski well enough to instruct it. Having eliminated the "advanced" section, the remainder of the classes were carried out with some measure of success. On any sunny Sunday, VOC'ers could be found all over the hill, progressing down the slope by any one of several very modern techniques: zee snow plow, zee stem Christie, zee oops!

AN ENTICING ADVERTISEMENT BY A CLIMBING CHAIRMAN Peter Thompson

Early Sunday morning you leave the crowded commercialized areas behind and ski into the heart of the magnificent wilderness of - Mt. Seymour Provincial Park. Your impressive objective is Mt. Seymour, the glorified bump which dominates Vancouver's northern horizon.

The trail switchbacks through the towering evergreens motionless in their icy winter coats. The frozen silence is broken only by the clatter of the chairlift, the honking of car horns, the anguished screams of the wounded yo-yo skiers on the chairlift run, and the guy behind you swearing because his skins have come off. You close your ears to the crude noises of civilization and plunge deeper into the wilderness. Unparalleled beauty unfolds at every stride. Ahhh... at last... the ultimate quiet! (Except for that guy still cursing his lousy skins!)

The line of people before you comes to a sudden stop. The Leader slowly raises his ski pole to point out a great white mound of snow silhouetted against the azure blue sky. His voice charged with emotion the old mountaineer utters two words - the summit! A shiver of fearful anticipation runs down your spine, your goal is in sight - the summit of mighty Mt. Seymour! Then it occurs to you that only ten thousand people have climbed that fearful peak since 1920!!

GARIBALDI SKI TRAVERSE

Mar. 4-6,1965. Peter Thompson

Despite packs weighing approximately four thousand pounds each, the Group of Three grinned happily as they started off from Diamond Head Lodge March 4th. What else could they do - there was a large group of yo-yo skiers waving good-bye.

The plan was simple: ski up one glacier (sweat!), cross the Garibaldi Neve, climb Garibaldi (8787') (Hurray!), ski down the north face (ACK!), traverse to the head of the Sentinel Glacier, ski down to Garibaldi Lake (wheel) and on down to Garibaldi Station in time to catch the evening train on March 6th (Pant! Pant!).

The situation looked good i. e. the good old sun was shining. The Group of Three, namely Sandy Macdonald, Jim Whittaker and Peter Peeler were happy.

Our twenty-five mile traverse started rather negatively with a sort of "hairy" descent 800' into Ring Creek. The numerous avalanche chutes that one must cross were in good shape; they were nice and icy. This is better than having them full of rapidly moving snow (like an avalanche). Swimming across avalanche chutes is really hard to do with a four thousand pound pack on one's back. One tends to go down a lot faster than one goes across.

Once down into Ring Creek the long monotonous slog to the head of the valley began.

xo And we slogged, and we slogged, and seemed to be out of shape or something. About four thousand hours later (4 p. m.) we camped for the night. Neve Camp was set up just below the southern edge of the Garibaldi Neve at a cool 6000' above sea level.

" wind is cold. Time for down jackets and mitts!" Jim struggles with the primus while Sandy and I stamp out a tent platform.. .mmmm! Comfort! a fluffy down sleeping bag, foam mattress and a mug of hot soup.. ."

A cold, wintery-type morning made for a quick breaking of camp. The Group of Three trundled up to the edge of the Neve'. We paused for a moment, speechless, absorbing the beauty of the panorama that had suddenly become visible. The Neve' stretched out like a table top to the lumpy form of 'Pringle Ridge'. Our eyes followed the ridge up over Tent Peak to the summit of Garibaldi (8787'), definitely a "hairy" peak from the southeast.

Four long sweaty hours later we were sitting on our packs looking up the last thousand feet of Garibaldi's north face. The route was obvious. Leaving our packs behind we climbed another fifteen minutes before we had to leave our skis firmly implanted in the snow. The bergschrund was no sweat, a large snow bridge solved that problem. Five minutes later a cheerful cry, "It goes!" Another 300' of steep step-kicking brought us to the summit.

Grins of satisfaction appear under three sets of dark goggles... a handshake, a bite to eat... that dirty other world of pulp mills and noise and smoke lies thousands of feet below, SCORN! ... the arrogance of a mountaineer. Then- "Time to crawl down off this thing, Group1"

It was late in the afternoon, the north face was already in shadow. A bum-schuss from the bergschrund down to our skis saved some time. Quickly, numb fingers fumbling with frozen bindings, the Group of Three get into their skis. Ho! Ho! and away we go! We shot down through the untracked snow to pick up our packs. The snow was unbelievable, fluffy powder, but well consolidated so that even with heavy packs our skis settled only 8 inches. Sandy "wedeled" down through the ice fall while Jim and I snowplow-turned. "Damn these lousy packs 1"

Just east of 'Shark Fin Pinnacle' we pointed our skis straight for the North Col, 500 feet below and a quarter of a mile away, .. . one. . . . two. . . . three.. . . Charge! Yabba dabba doooo! Yelling like idiots we made it one long wild schuss.

The last bit of uphill on the trip brought us to the head of the Sentinel Glacier; 2000' below and two miles away was Garibaldi Lake. Three pairs of eyes shone with a wild light. To start with, even Sandy had to join in the multi kick turns forced upon us by the packs. But not for long. Now we could see a direct line to the edge of the Lake. Screaming for joy the Group of Three rumbled down the glacier.

We coasted almost to the edge of the frozen lake, dropped our pack and set up what was to become known as Cold Camp. The next morning we were halfway across Garibaldi Lake before our frozen ski boots thawed enough to tie them up.

At approximately 2:17 PM we hit our first running water in three days. Melting snow for water is a painfully slow process. Happiness is letting cold water trickle down your throat. We neatly avoided everything the Barrier threw at us. One more run, two miles down the new road to the highway and it was carry-the-skis time. The Group of Three managed to meet their train and they lived happily ever after.

APEX-MIDTERM BREAK Mar 3-7,1965 Marg Latimer

On March 3rd, thirty eager skiers set out for Apex, a new ski development 23 miles southwest of Penticton. We had been given the entire use of the two-storey lodge at the Apex Ski Village which is located 9 miles from the ski area. Most of our group did not arrive until midnight. For some members, sleep came only after a thorough exploration of the new surroundings and a skate on the adjoining ice rink.

The facilities at Apex are excellent. A ride up the 3800' Pomalift brings you to an eleva­tion of 7100' from where one obtains a magnificent view of the surrounding mountains and valleys. From here intermediate skiers can practise their skills on the "Juniper" run; ad-

11

vanced 3kiers will find plenty of challenge on the "Chute" and the "Guabarrel." A "grand­father" trail provides satisfaction for the cross-country skier. Two rope tows and a 3000' T-bar accommodate the beginner (at the bottom of the hill). Here a rustic log chalet invites he-ing and she-ing in its friendly atmosphere.

Every day our spirits were as bright as the sun. Several members took full advantage of the heat and skied in bathing suits or shorts. Warwhoops and yodelling could be heard from all parts of the mountain as elated VOC'ers expressed their happiness while schussing through the dry powder snow. Some people became so enthusiastic that they kept falling off the Poma-Iift in order that they might try some uphill skiing. One fearless John Jungen seemed deter­mined to see how many trees he could take out.

The time on the slopes passed very quickly and the hungry skiers returned to the lodge. Here they eagerly attacked delicious meals prepared under the master supervision of Carole Russell and Barb Mioduszewska. The evenings were filled with ice hockey, card playing, dancing, singing, and accordion music by Rudy Rothe. Some people provided added enter­tainment by playing practical jokes. In one case two culprits decided that everyone should have the opportunity of hearing "A Hard Days Night" at three in the morning. It came on full blast at the scheduled time and startled a certain young lady who flew downstairs in her night­gown and pulled out the plug of the jukebox. She was greeted the next morning by a delegation of five boys who scooped her up, blankets and all, and abandoned her on the far end of the ice rink. Leader of the trip, Gerry Meyerman, who boasted that no one had done anything to him, was rewarded with a deluxe hot dog seasoned with gravel and chile and a car gift-wrapped with t. p.

Too soon it was time to leave and everyone reluctantly headed back to Vancouver.

OLYMPIC BEACH TRAVERSE - Southern Party Mar. 1-4,1965 Ted Swanson

Leader: We were sort of an anarchistic outfit.

Members: Karl Ricker Asgar Bentzen Lou Beauchemin Darryl Rhodes Ted Swanson

Penny Kemp Madame X (we didn't get her name) Dave Mallett Frank Dembicki

... Fwop, fwop, fwop, fa-wop. Again? It's about the neat tires on your car Darryl.

It's about the fact that I've got thirteen people in my 1950 Anglia, Swanson!

Well put. Anyway, how'd you like to move some of these sleeping bodies so we can get out and fix it...

In case you're just tuning in, this is the first annual (annulled?) Olympic Beach Traverse - Southern Rebel Faction speaking at ya.

Actually, the Southern party was only half of a huge, quivering mass of apathetic VOC Keeners (we were the keener half!) who set out on the March 1-4 midterm break for sand, surf, sun (75 worth) and seagulls (they found us t*% !!) on the Washington coast.

Having been informed by that wondrous sage, Axel Kellner that the drive down would take only five hours, we bombed off Friday night in Darryl Rhodes' Supercar. Fifteen hours - and almost as many flats - later, we arrived. Have you ever tried substituting an air mattress for an inner tube? Don't bother.

Saturday morning was typical. After about ninety minutes of sleep we were awakened by the ecstatic twanging of Lou Beauchemin and her cheering section - "The VOC Movers" -Asgar Bentzen and Karl Ricker, who incidentally just happen to be the club's oldest, shrewd­est, cunningest bird dogs. Woof! Woof!

To further our cheerful awakening, no sooner had we begun our northward trek than the beautiful Pacific Sun was blotched out by a huge, white cloud. That is, a huge, white cloud * of four hundred eighty thousand well-fed, dive bombing seagulls. As a result, Asgar became

Olympic National Park beach traverse - Giant's Graveyard photo by Denny Hewgill

13

the first m a n to w a l k the w h o l e w a y f r o m Oil City to L a P u s h with his u m b r e l l a up.

O n e of the m o r e eventful parts of the trip w a s c a u s e d b y the combination of a high tide a n d b e a c h running ie. the tide w a s high all afternoon a n d w e w a n t e d to m a k e it to the T o l e a k Hilton (half-way h o u s e a n d social citadel of the Pacific Coast) by nightfall. In other w o r d s the object of the g a m e w a s to try to r u n f r o m o n e rock to another before the next b r e a k e r rolled in. It's a great feeling being fifty feet f r o m that next rock a n d seeing four feet of w a v e about to clobber you.

A n y w a y , w e didn't m a k e it to the Toleak Hilton Saturday night. Instead, w e h a d to settle for Mosquito C r e e k Shelter w h i c h is like staying in the Stanley P a r k Hollow T r e e w h e n y o u could h a v e h a d the B a y s h o r e (well. . .almost). T h e entertainment that night w a s simply great, f r o m the plunkety plunk of Lou's guitar to the nasal tones of D a v e Mallett, otherwise k n o w n a s F o g h o r n (he sings like a "flunk out" f r o m a N a s o g r a p h c o m m e r c i a l ) .

B y n o o n S u n d a y w e r e a c h e d the i n f a m o u s Toleak Hilton only to find n u m e r o u s e m p t y cans, five pairs of old shoes a n d one d e a d r a c o o n but no people! So w e picked a n off w e e k e n d ?

T o c o m p l e t e our day w e r e a c h e d L a P u s h a n d our trail's end. T h e r e w e w e r e greeted b y a huge, sprawling, a m o r p h o u s m a s s of people (obviously a Shriner's Picnic, gang) w h i c h turned out to b e the slack N o r t h e r n Party. T h e y w e r e still resting u p for the hike. After another ten h o u r s of confinement in Darryl's car (actually a n upholstered rollerskate) w e u n ­loaded ourselves at Peter's I c e C r e a m Parlor w h e r e w e s h o w e d off our golden tans a n d g r u b b y clothes to the typical office-grey, M o n d a y m o r n i n g clientele.

Well, that w a s the O l y m p i c B e a c h T r a v e r s e Southern Party Style. Actually, the b e a c h is very beautiful (especially at low tide), the trails are well m a r k e d , a n d shelters are in great shape. T h e 1965 b e a c h trip w a s a real lark - so w a t c h out for the 1966 version.

O L Y M P I C B E A C H T R A V E R S E — N O R T H E R N P A R T Y M a r . 4-6,1965 Frankie d e la H a y e

Ethel Lanski

T w o m i n u t e s behind schedule Axel Kellner a n d his " m e r r y m e n a n d w o m e n " tore a c r o s s O a k Street B r i d g e o n the first leg of the O l y m p i c B e a c h T r a v e r s e . W e m a n a g e d to stay to­gether m o s t of the w a y e v e n w h e n two V . W.'s w e r e dragging but at Burlington, D e n n y got off the beaten track, a n d at Bellingham R o y got behind w h e n he stopped to b u y s o m e oil.

W e (Axel's a n d Peter's cars) arrived at the K e y s t o n e F e r r y with plenty of time to s p a r e — like 24 h o u r s ! This ferry runs Friday to S u n d a y — a n d w e arrived o n T h u r s d a y . * A t this point R o y caught u p and, still in high spirits, w e took the "scenic route" 100 m i l e s out of the w a y w h i c h offered as a d d e d attractions: two ferries, $5 a n d a toll bridge. Little did w e k n o w that D e n n y a n d the two S u e s w o u l d wait a n hour for u s at K e y s t o n e — a f t e r w e ' d g o n e !

After the usual m i n o r detours a n d delays—like el cafe at P o r t Angeles, m i s s i n g turn-offs, etc. — w e p a r k e d the cars near L a P u s h and, with the natural instinct of experienced w o o d s m e n (?), found the trail a n d left the usual V . O. C . m a r k e r for the delinquent g r o u p s — w h i t e T . P. Roy's c r e w w a s left behind with oil p r o b l e m s again. After a n hour a n d a half of confusion—it w a s after d a r k a n d w e h a d three flashlights a m o n g seven p e o p l e — w e shouldered the right p a c k s a n d slogged d o w n the m u d d y (and how!) trail to T h i r d B e a c h . A t our campsite o n the sand, the guys " m a d e " the fire—it's about the c a n of naptha that w a s full at 8:00 P. M . ! N e e d l e s s to say, w e dined at a v e r y fashionable hour that evening.

It w a s insignificant to u s that w e h a d set up c a m p at low tide; h o w e v e r the girls returned f r o m w a s h i n g dishes (in salt w a t e r — o h ! ) uttering w o r d s of w i s d o m : "Sure looks like the tide's c o m i n g in all right!" T h e fellows paid no attention to our w a r n i n g s until. . . Y O W . . .. the tide IS c o m i n g in! H e a d for the hills—literally! W e gathered our gear a n d re-located about thirty feet higher o n a n uncomfortable but D R Y trail! Denny's late g r o u p h a d to sleep in the trees.

N e x t m o r n i n g while s o m e of us h a d sand a n d eggs, J o h n a n d his h a r e m upheld V . O . C . tradition a n d h a d sand a n d M U S H . After breakfast Sue Parrott r e g r e s s e d to her childhood, mistaking a windfall for a h o b b y h o r s e !

W e w a s t e d a n hour or so clearing up, a n d started hiking, with Toleak Point our objective.

14

We walked along the beach as long as possible until the tide (we could tell this time that it was coming in) forced us in and upland. The weather was perfect and the scenery beautiful— jagged sea stacks of the Giant's Graveyard.spin-drift blown along the shore, and multi-inter­esting diversions to slow us down: tidal pools, rock collecting and Hembling movie picture-taking! A local we met on the way told us not to bother looking for the Japanese glass fishing floats that were up on shore—he had just walked north on our route and found seventeen. How­ever, he did miss two... Sue and Axel found one each later on.

Two miles from Third Beach, we stopped for lunch. Roy and crew caught up with us here after having spent the night in a State campsite half an hour away from the rest of the group on Third Beach. (Roy reminds us that they had warm water—and no tide!) Here we also met the anarchistic southern group who were hiking north from Oil City for their second day. We swapped "tall tales" of great endurance (?)—two miles in three hours—and other phenomenal wonders.

Denny, a really keen type, was already three miles ahead of us, shooting off the odd dozen rolls of film and was waiting at Toleak Point, when we finally arrived. Axel found that he had carried a ten pound boulder (courtesy of John Hembling) in his pack for the last mile or so. (Shades of Bralorne, eh Axel?) The prospects of cabin-sleeping were wiped out when a skunk nicely let off about a day beforehand. John had made a lean-to for himself and his harem, so there were some dry people in the camp. So again, we slept out in the open and woke up with frost on our sleeping bags. The group split up in the morning with five contin­uing to Oil City. Our first obstacle was Goodman Creek, which we had to ford without the help of a fallen tree. Was it COLD! Four of the saner types waded across in knee-deep icy water, but Roy chose his own path and got wet to the waist. Then, after we'd walked about half a mile, he realized he'd left his camera behind— on the other side of Goodman Creek!

Just nicely dried off from that crossing, we were confronted with Mosquito Creek. Roy and Axel went one-quarter of a mile out of the way to cross the creek on a fallen log, and nearly slipped off in the process. The girls, however, braved the knee-deep, warmer-than-Goodman Creek-water and beat them across. The funny thing is that the boys spent fifteen minutes trying to calculate the depth of the water by throwing rocks into the water, finally deciding that it was too deep. Talk about feminine intuition, eh fellows?

That night four of us slept in the woods. Again Roy was the "black sheep" and back­tracked a mile to sleep in a dilapidated "shelter" near Mosquito Creek. The next morning we headed off without breakfast in order to get around the last point at low tide. Everyone but Frankie made it around dry—she ran into the deepest tide pool around when she saw a breaker ten feet away, charging in to soak her—and got wet anyway! A little later on she got dunked up to the waist—and standing on a rock. Well, it was a little rock, Ethel!

We got to the cars around noon, happy, wet, sunburned and hungry, with one glass float, lots of bruises and a terrific weekend behind us! We wish more could have come, and hope that this will become an annual event. Everyone should have the opportunity of getting soaked by out-running or not out-running a breaker!

*Hints for Olympic Beach Hikers: 1. Always carry a ferry schedule 2. Carry an extra $5 in case you forget #1 3. Take a tide chart along—seriously, and flashlight and primus 4. Bathing suit and towel in case you forget #3 or #1 5. Oil and a good navigator 6. Join the north party for the greatest time—southeners drawled all the way! 7. Trails over the headlands when approached from the south are often poorly marked.

Use the sketch maps and instructions published from the National Parks bearing in mind that the locations are approximate on the sketch.

Merry Crew: Leader-Axel Kellner Groups-Denny Hewgill and Sue Knibbs, Sue Parrott

John Hembling and Roberta X, Marie Y, (the Harem), Peter Dean

Roy King and Helmut Z, Marilyn MacPherson Axel and Frankie de la Haye, Ethel Lanski.

S K Q L L U S I O N

T h e silence s w e e p s in n a k e d a r c s A c r o s s a wild simplicity. T h e r e breathes a certain w e l c o m e sting, A bracingness in everything T h a t spans the taunting range y o u ski.

It's ice dust sparkling in a draught, T h e scrunch a n d slide of p o w d e r snow; U n b r o k e n m o r n i n g trails that g o T h r o u g h fairylands of ice-wrought t r e e s — C o l d noses, o n a drifted crest A n d simply being there to test T h o s e p o w d e r slopes the c r o s s - w i n d s tease.

F r o m crystal s n o w through crystal skies, Like g l e a m i n g teeth, white ranges soar, A n d fluted c r a g s of ivory rise, O n r a m p a r t s f r o m the valley f l o o r — B u t still the silent c a n y o n s slice In vaulted sepulchres of ice.

A p a u s e In h a r m o n y with all in sight, A n t h e m s poised o n w i n d a n d white. .. A w a y ! Glide unleashed, a n d a small first turn, A lazy arc o n the b r o w of day A n d suddenly s n o w slopes drop a w a y , It's half about in a skidding loop • A n d the skis recoil in a dizzy s w o o p O n d o w n through the bouncing, flashing white, Exalt to the tingle unfurled in flight O u t o n the crust of a ridge, swing w i d e T h e n b a c k through the silent p o w d e r tide, S n o w devils dance o n your drifting track A n d feed o n the clouds y o u r shins throw back.

Aphelion left t o w a r d a cornice r i m A n d a r o u n d in a spray of p o w d e r e d ice Y o u r edges hiss, then catch a n d slice T o vortex deep through the spinning drifts; S t r e a m on, release, until something lifts A n d y o u s e e m to b r e a k f r o m a w e b of laws, T h e n swirl to a halt for a m o m e n t ' s pause, T o look again at the g l e a m i n g slope A n d w a t c h the ski-flung snowballs g o W i t h a rollicking b o u n c e t o w a r d the w o r l d below, Their trails arc wide with a careless ease A n d they s e e m , with the aid of a restless b r e e z e T o challenge the wilderness in m a n T o plunge f r o m the b o n d s that his teachings s p a n A n d schuss the w i n d until something sings, Its the closest thing to a blood with wings, F o r the sudden sting of a silver nerve R e s o u n d s with a flashing d r e a m to cut A m o m e n t ' s notch in a n e o n rut, A n d the whispering tracks of a d o z e n skis T h a t inter-arc t o w a r d the distant trees F r o m the virgin s n o w s of a day b e g u n T o w a r d rhinestone trails in the setting s u n W e a v e b o n d s that m a n y times transcend T h e last sweet schuss to a journey's end.

D i c k Culbert

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GARIBALDI SPRINGTIME

SPHINX C A M P May 1965 Lynn Morton

Don't be a slack cabin type! Live in a tent on a glacier! See fantastic sunsets! Have the best skiing yet at your back door! Have a thrilling view from the John! Stay at Sphinx Camp! Only one short trip across the Garibaldi Ne've and you'll be there.

This is the sales talk given to all at the Garibaldi meetings. This is what ran through our heads as we battled our way up Ring Creek to the Neve'. This is what we dreamed about as we slept two nights below Pringle Ridge waiting out a storm. This is what we got when we finally arrived at Sphinx Camp.

Every day we got up late (6 a. m.) and were greeted by a yummy breakfast cooked by the guys (served in bed of course!) After unfreezing boots and skins we all headed up the hills for a day of spring skiing and sunshine. From the top of Deception (50' of rock work yet!), the Bookworms (no white-outs this year), Sphinx Mt. (no ropes!) and the outer peak of Guard, we got a unique view of the Garibaldi area.

Each evening Sphinx Camp had entertainment. After dinner the Beatles (Nina, Vera, Lynn) would let their hair down and sing a note or two. The local help would fetch wood (all dead!) and build a fire in the middle of a babbling brook. The sun would set on just the right peaks so the Shutterbugs could go wild. And when the moon came out Lawrence of Arabia (Peter Peeler to his friends) would gallop onto the lake yelling, "On to Akabah!" (translation:Where's my peanut butter ?)

WHISTLER

V O C D E V E L O P M E N T S AT WHISTLER Oct., 1965 John Boyle

Since the publication of the last Journal, much time and effort has been spent on the est­ablishment of a V O C cabin at Whistler Mountain. Particularly time-consuming was the search for an appropriate cabin site. In February, 1965, the architect-planners for the Whistler area and the Garibaldi Olympic Development Association announced a proposed club cabin area just north of the lift. As this proposal provided land closer to possible parking facilities and to the lift, the search for a site was concentrated in this area. Investigation of this area was undertaken in the early summer, and, since the V O C was the first club in the area, it acquired the choice lot, with a magnificent view of Whistler Mountain. Both a natural downhill ski run from the main ski hill to the cabin site and a trail to the lift terminal can be, and are being, cut. Thus, cars will not have to be moved from the club parking lot being constructed just off the main highway. The water for the cabin will be drawn by gravity flow from a stream which shows promise of year-round flow.

In late spring, the V O C Whistler Cabin Committee was established to act for the Club during the summer - to arrange finances and the land lease, to design the cabin, and to begin construction. It became apparent that the Seymour cabin would have to be sold in order to complete the finances of the Whistler cabin and to preserve club unity. Thus, at the direction of the general membership, the cabin was put on sale in September.

After much deliberation and many revisions, designer Byron Olson has designed a unique ski cabin, excellently fulfilling V O C needs and best suited to the Whistler site. The finished cabin will have about 3800 square feet of floor space and a sleeping capacity of 90 in dormi­tories separated from the main structure. The lounge will hold 150 people for parties and other large events, but there will be an upper lounge to accommodate smaller numbers. Other features include a large kitchen, a boot-drying room, two washrooms, ski racks, and lockers. The cabin will be heated by two central fireplaces and a hot-air furance. The dormitories will be electrically heated.

Rough hand-clearing of the cabin site, August

Surveying of the footing locations, September

Designer B y r o n Olson, directing leveling operations, S e p t e m b e r

C o l u m n s a n d b a s e m e n t decking raised, October

V . O . C . 's n e w Whistler Cabin at Alta Lake, early N o v e m b e r '65 photo by B y r o n O l s o n

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Actual construction of our cabin b e g a n in early August, 1965, a n d enthusiastic w o r k parties of V O C ' e r s h a v e b e e n up at the site every w e e k - e n d . T h e project involves a t r e m e n ­dous a m o u n t of w o r k - a r o a d w a s cleared to the site, trails w e r e cut, a w a t e r line installed, a n d the site levelled. T h e building of the cabin w e n t o n a s fast as conditions permitted. A s the Journal is being c o m p i l e d (mid-October), w e a r e approaching the completion of stage o n e - the closing-in of the cabin a n d the installation of the essential fittings O u r objective is to have a roof over our h e a d s for the annual V O C Hallowe'en Party, a n d a n enclosed shell before the first s n o w s of N o v e m b e r r e a c h the cabin.

B e c a u s e of the large effort put forth by the m a n y people involved in organizing the project, this objective isn't far off. A few people, h o w e v e r , d e s e r v e special m e n t i o n . Charlie D a u g h n e y (Ph. D . candidate) led the long a n d frustrating s e a r c h for land, a n d K a r l Ricker (Gind 59) h a s b e e n one of the m a i n driving forces behind the w h o l e undertaking. B y r o n O l s o n (Grad 64) h a s spent m a n y h o u r s designing our cabin a n d supervising construction at the site every w e e k - e n d . J a c k Stathers (Grad 55) b e c a m e a n advisory m e m b e r of the Whistler C o m -mitee in the early s u m m e r a n d h a s b e e n of invaluable assistance. T h e s e a r e but a few, the list of n a m e s is endless.

O u r n e w cabin p r o m i s e s to b e a n effective focal point for the w i d e r a n g e of V O C interests. T h e Garibaldi P a r k a n d Whistler M o u n t a i n areas provide limitless opportunities for skiing a n d mountaineering. F r o m the Whistler cabin one h a s access to the fabulous ski-touring of Sing­ing P a s s , to unlimited climbing a n d hiking for all r a n g e s of ability, to the (4000 vertical feet of) lift skiing of Whistler Mountain, as well a s to challenging locations for ice a n d r o c k schools, T h u s , our Whistler cabin should m e e t the needs of the Varsity Outdoor Club for m a n y y e a r s to c o m e , a n d the V O C spirit will k n o w no b o u n d s w h e n s u r r o u n d e d with s u c h magnificent terrain.

W O N D E R O U S W H I S T L E R W O R K E R S Sept. - N o v . 1965 Judy M a c K a y

T h e real fun b e g a n 'way b a c k in the s u m m e r of ' 65 w h e n foraging parties b r a v e d the Whistler W i l d e r n e s s to put in a n access r o a d a n d survey the cabin site. D u r i n g the d a y s w e c o m b a t t e d black flies, m o s q u i t o e s , a n d the smell of "Off" o n the next p e r s o n . Jackie B e a u c h ­e m i n b e c a m e a n expert alder-tree javelin-thrower - w o e betide a n y o n e w h o c a m e within r a n g e ! A t nights w e slept under the stars, the dark silence b r o k e n only b y the sounds of R e g g i e W i l d e d e m a n d i n g to k n o w w h o h a d tied his pillow u p in that pine tree, a n d b y M a r y S m i t h w h o h a d nightmares about s o m e tree chasing her into the bushes.

S o time p r o g r e s s e d a n d w o r k w e n t on. D a v e Higgins, with a c o m p e t e n t c r e w , success­fully c o m p l e t e d his first project in a n underdeveloped area, with the installation of a water line to the cabin ... shortly after this milestone event, rodents nibbled holes in the plastic pipe . .. D a v e is n o w in voluntary exile in England.

A u t u m n brought wind, rain, a n d a deluge of prospective n e w m e m b e r s to the site. S w e e t young things w e r e entranced o n their first visit to the site b y the romantic vision of Neal A l -w a y towing the out-house a c r o s s the road. N e w m e m b e r J i m Fitzpatrick, pointing to a tent, innocently uttered the Unforgiveable Social Blunder - "Is that the boys' tent?" A n d then there w a s B e r t M a c i j a w s k a s (F) w h o hasn't yet r e c o v e r e d f r o m the fact that w e don't u s e Joy Ivory Liquid o n our dishes.

W h i c h brings u p the subject of F O O D ; A s one interested observer noted, food p r o g r e s s e d f r o m c o m m u n a l stews to s o m e t h i n g w h i c h looked, smelt, a n d tasted like Gaines G r a v y Train, but reportedly wasn't. D e s s e r t s w e r e par excellence. Sue Knibbs r e m e m b e r s trying to h a r d e n jello in the c r e e k a n d there w a s that nice H O T cocoa w h i c h B a r b W . T . L . N . b r e w e d one night to liven things up. E v e r y m o r n i n g Karl Ricker's ringing c o m m e n t s could b e h e a r d at sunrise - "Definitely N O raisins in the m u s h ! "

T h e p r e s s u r e s of leadership p r o v e d to b e too m u c h for s o m e people. C a b i n Marshall L e s W a t s o n tried to j u m p f r o m a 10 ft. l a m p post, a n d T r e a s u r e r D a v e Z u e s t b a c k e d his truck over a poor little whito V o l k s w a g e n . Others c a m e up in the w o r l d as a result of w o r k i n g at Whistler. D a v e W i n g a t e is n o w a n official e m p l o y e e of U . B . C . 's Buildings a n d G r o u n d s Dept. - s e e m s his duties include driving a truck to Whistler every w e e k e n d .

Anne Pope. . . being stalked by a telephone pole thief Bill Boyd. . . trying to cut corners

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Architecturally, the cabin h a s s o m e t h i n g for everyone. L e s Carter a n d S u e J o n e s w e r e finally able to see things eye-to-eye b y standing o n different floor levels. D e s i g n e r B y r o n O l s o n says h e k n o w s the perfect place for the V O C m o o s e h e a d - o n the north wall of "that little w h i t e w a s h e d building ..."

Hallowe'en '65 w a s something to r e m e m b e r . T h e cabin s a g g e d a n d s w a y e d in r h y t h m to every polka beat. O u r b a n d w a s a swinging c o m b o , with J o h n Boyle o n the w a s h b a s i n - c u m -bongos, J e a n Strachan o n the tin pan, H a r r y a n d Jerry M e y e r m a n adding their h a r m o n i o u s rendition of " H a r d D a y ' s Night", a n d F r e d F r o s h conducting the whole. Prize for the best c o s t u m e goes to the one depicting the S e y m o u r C a b i n as "Whistler's m o t h e r " . A n y w a y "fun w a s h a d b y all" .... wasn't it? ?

Winter c a m e all too soon. W e nearly lost T o n y Lyttle a s h e w a s practising his glissading technique while shaking the roof one night. Cliques b e g a n to f o r m a m o n g the w o r k e r s . Peter Peeler's P a c k R a t s b e c a m e the "in" group. Qualifications for this g r o u p included being able to sing "Jingle B e l l s " while carrying a 60 lb. bundle of roof shakes.

Well, t i m e s h a v e certainly c h a n g e d since it all began. O u r n a m e is n o w r e n o w n e d f r o m H o r s e s h o e B a y to P e m b e r t o n . "Smilin' J a c k " of the Cariboo Cafe in S q u a m i s h doesn't smile so m u c h a n y m o r e , since d r o v e s of V O C ' e r s , lured b y p r o m i s e s of wild p a p e r m a t c h e s , h a v e d e s c e n d e d o n his austere establishment. Evidences of V O C invasion c a n b e s e e n o n every accessible gravel pit along the r o a d to Whistler (sand a n d gravel m i x for the 24' high c h i m n e y ) . M a n y a resident of Alta L a k e m u s t h a v e sat u p in his b e d in horror a n d a m a z e m e n t a s wild s c r e a m s a n d howling c a m e issuing d o w n the m o u n t a i n o n a Saturday night. A s one old m e m b e r said, " W e ' r e a l w a y s laughing - it m u s t b e hysterics!"

S U M M E R A C T I V I T I E S 1965

M T . H O O D S K I I N G

M a y 22, 1965 J i m Whittaker

O n Saturday J e a n Finley, D a v e H a r d y a n d J i m Whittaker drove u p to the h a n d s o m e Timberline Ski L o d g e o n M t . H o o d (11,245') in the rain. After s o m e skiing that afternoon, w e set up a c a m p . T h e next m o r n i n g , at 4:30, w e set out in the crisp, w i n d y weather. T h e in­creasing light revealed not only the fantastic 3000' ski runs of M t . H o o d , but also about ninety m e m b e r s of the M a z a m a s climbing club m a r c h i n g a h e a d in c o l u m n o n their annual assault of M t . H o o d . A r a c e to the s u m m i t takes place each year o n N e w Y e a r ' s d a y to see w h o c a n get the first ascent of the year.

A b o u t 7:00 a. m . , w e w e r e overtaken b y clouds rising f r o m the valley, a n d s o o n it b e g a n to s n o w a n d blow. W e p r e s s e d o n t o w a r d the top until m o s t of the M a z a m a s h a d p a s s e d u s o n their w a y d o w n . T h e n w e retreated.

T h a t night w a s spent at D a n Phelp's Portland h o m e a n d the next day w e explored c a v e s in the lava b e d b e l o w M t . St. Helens before starting h o m e .

B O W E N I S L A N D T R I P July 4, 1965 D u n c a n Etches

This w a s a classical "slackers" trip - fifteen people left V a n c o u v e r at the early hour of nine in the m o r n i n g a n d via B . C . Ferries journeyed to B o w e n Island. T h e objective of this trip w a s to r e a c h the s u m m i t of M t . G a r d n e r (2700'), the highest point o n the island. After our arrival at B o w e n Island everyone w a l k e d to the base of the m o u n t a i n except four enter­prising types w h o hitched rides. All m e m b e r s of the party r e a c h e d a knoll (1500') situated

22 past the end of the logging road on the north side. It had been a long walk so we decided to satisfy a healthy mid-day appetite before attempting the summit. Six members of the party (Patty Balmos, Carol Fiske, Marg Latimer, Dave Simmonson, Gordon Soules and Duncan Etches) continued towards the summit while the others headed back to Snug Cove. All six reached the peak after some difficulty was encountered in locating the summit cairn. W e came down from the summit on the south side and then hitch-hiked into Snug Cove. All this had taken the better part of the day. At Snug Cove we found the "slack" part of our group swim­ming and sunbathing, except for Ken Hall, who was not visible - he was hiding from the irate father of the boy whom he hit with his "boomerang". It was a trip worthy of a reunion three weeks later.

A BIKE HIKE TO GALIANO ISLAND July 17-18 Sheila McMeekin

Linda Lasalle t

Saturday morning, fifteen VOC'ers arrived at the Tsawassen Ferry for the long awaited bike trip. Once the bikes were sorted, fares paid, and packs arranged we cycled towards the ferry; that is, all except Hu Naylor who thought it unnecessary to bring a bicycle.

Our first breakdown occurred as we pedaled down the wharf at Galiano. Hu now had Linda to keep him company on his walk. The rest of the group left for Montague Harbour, where the campsite was located. The cyclists were a little surprised to find the island was not as flat as the leader had promised. However, all managed to arrive at the campsite in one piece. Once settled into our campsite, Reg Wilde appeared and announced he had located a better spot further up the road. So we re-packed and moved on - but Reg decided this wasn't quite good enough either so he found another and another site. Finally, after the fifth move he found isolation, shade, grass, and all a bare campsite could offer. The remainder of the afternoon was spent exploring the beaches, soaking up the sun, and swimming. After dinner, eyeryoae cycled down to the ferry, met five late-comers and returning to camp we built a fire on the beach and sang well into the morning.

After an early breakfast, the group started the long ride up-island to Retreat Cove. W e stopped for lunch and a swim along the way. Inspired by the thought of a cold drink aboard the ferry we made it back to the dock in remarkable time.

The trip ended with a swim at Jackie Beauchemin and Mary Smith's apartment. All agreed that riding a bicycle was certainly fun and Galiano Island the perfect place to do it.

M O N T E CRISTO A N D C A D E T July 17-18,1965 Peter Macek

Members of the Party: Bert Port (leader), Sue Port, Jim Whittaker, Karl Ricker, Dave Higgins, Ethel Lanski, Sheila McMeekin, Mangal Gautam, Charlie Daughney, Pete Macek.

Following a beautiful drive through the spectacular scenery of the Mountain Loop Highway, we arrived at the partially restored mining camp of Monte Cristo (about 25 miles east of Everett, Washington). On a hot summer day, after playing tourist, we hiked two miles up to Glacier Basin where we established base camp on a grassy flat area surrounded by rugged peaks and dominated, at the head of the cirque, by Monte Cristo itself.

Upon consulting the Climbing Guide to the Cascade Peaks , we expected a six to eight hour climb. The next morning we broke camp at 5 A M and an easy hike took us to the base of the

Fitzsimmons' Cabin at Singing Pass in 1924 and Blackcomb Mtn. in background photo by Neal Carter

24

snowfield up w h i c h our route led o n the w e s t side of the mountain. W e r o p e d u p a n d w e r e s o o n resting in the north col. F r o m there it w a s a short s n o w traverse along the b a c k of the m o u n ­tain, two pitches u p rotten rock, a n d then the s u m m i t at 8 a. m . T h e r e the C a s c a d e M o u n t a i n s stretched a w a y o n all sides - a sea of 6500'-7500' peaks - f r o m Rainier in the south a n d Glacier P e a k w e s t to B a k e r o n the north.

After a n hour's sleep in the sun, Karl a n d I decided to try for the next m o u n t a i n north a n d therefore take advantage of the rest of a perfect day. D a v e , Sheila, Karl a n d I started d o w n and, after a long glissade, not at all intentional, our party split up. A long s n o w ascent to regain altitude brought u s b a c k to the m a i n ridge. H e r e w e m i s s e d the easy route to the p e a k and, instead, a s c e n d e d by several interesting rock pitches to the s u m m i t for its first ascent of the year. B y n o w it w a s a r o u n d 2 p. m . , a n d so, descending b y the obvious route, w e glissaded d o w n the m o u n t a i n to c a m p . O u r day's experiences convinced u s all w h a t a fantas­tic area this is for climbing; the rock is generally good, the m o u n t a i n s close together, spectacular, a n d not difficult to reach or climb.

B U T T L E L A K E July 30,1965 Sue K n i b b s

A n a r e a quickly developing into V . O . C . s u m m e r stomping grounds is located a m i d s t the grandeur of Strathcona P a r k . Although a trip attempting to r e a c h Buttle L a k e by crossing Forbidden Plateau w a s thwarted by forest closure, three V . O . C . er's a n d four C a n a d i a n Youth Hostelers m a n a g e d to j u m p the h a z a r d zone a n d s p e n d the w e e k e n d of July 30 canoeing o n the beautiful lake.

After a h a r d night spent sleeping o n the r o a d at Miracle B e a c h , one flat tire, a n d assorted w r o n g turns, our k e e n group finally m a n a g e d to launch those tipsy vehicles a n d b e g a n to c r a m in the p a c k s — p r e t z e l s a n d a twenty p o u n d w a t e r m e l o n . O u r plan to 'just explore' c h a n g e d w h e n W e s t e r n M i n e s offered to give u s a ride to their m i n e at the end of the lake. W e decided w e could paddle the twenty-two miles b a c k in one day e v e n though no one could steer. T h e one a n d a half h o u r trip to the m i n e w a s invaded b y " n " n u m b e r of B o y S c o u t s — t h e i r shenanigans pro v e d quite entertaining.

It w a s the r e d carpet treatment for us. In 95 plus heat w e drove the two m i l e s to the m i n e in a"crummy"(true V . O . C . tradition) a n d stopped for a pause-that-refreshes at the L e g i o n — n o n -potent, ever-running, cold, clear water (dry c a m p it w a s ) . W e dined o n luscious c r e a m c r u m p e t s a n d Kool-aid (not a shade neag V . O . C . 's!) a n d explored the c a m p ' s food facilities. T h e n u p to the m i n e pit w h e r e a cool 32 b r e e z e kept the party hanging a r o u n d the pit entrance. W e toured the ore shacks a n d a s k e d pertinent? a n d intelligent? questions about the m i n e a n d the c o m p a n y ' s e n d e a v o r s to build a townsite in the park. L e a d e r Gordie registered a "no c o m m e n t " until told he w a s standing o n top of one a n d a half million dollars—fantastic reaction. W e left the site reluctantly (all the m i n e r s oogled the girls) a n d drove b a c k to the canoes.

It w a s a w o b b l y two-hour paddle over s u b m e r g e d s t u m p s et al with frightening scrapes, m a n y near capsizings, a n d m u c h spastic gasping. After a rather h a z a r d o u s s w i m a n d a futile attempt at fishing with T o m Sawyer's legendary safety pin a n d string, w e b u n k e d d o w n .

W e left early next m o r n in order to avoid the usual afternoon b l o w and, while everyone lamented the lack of proper fishing poles, w e recklessly zigzagged our w a y to lunch. Things w e r e getting r o u g h a s w e tied up to eat our dry r y e - b r e a d a n d runny cheese. B u t w e continued procrastinating a n d sunbathing until everyone realized quite a chop h a d risen; running the w r o n g w a y , needless to say. Bucking a h e a d w i n d a n d w a v e s a foot a n d a half high at t i m e s (later everyone s w o r e no less than three feet) our soaking w e t c r e w s m a n a g e d to splash a n d bail our w a y through the channel. It w a s a toss u p a s to w h o m a d e m a t t e r s w e t t e r — t h e w a v e s or the b o w s m a n . After unpacking our s o d d e n gear a n d plunging in for a final brisk s w i m , w e w i n g e d our w a y to catch a ferry. F o r those interested, it is a lovely, easy two day jaunt, relatively inexpensive, a n d a m u s t for traditional s u m m e r trips.

L e a d e r - G o r d i e Soules G r o u p - S u e Parrot, D a v e S i m e n s o n , Val Ricardo, N e l s o n P e p p e r , Jack Hochglaube, a n d

reluctant author

Sept. 5-6/65 SINGING PASS

Carol Fiske

The scene opens on the rich forest of Fitzsimmons Creek - a fairy-tale area of tall trees, spongemoss, cool ferns and wandering streams. Suddenly the serenity is broken by raucous laughter and into view strides Karl Ricker leading the merry group of John Boyle, Judy Mac-Kay, Linda Lasalle, Carol Fiske and Jim Whittaker headed for Singing Pass via Fitzsimmons and Melody Creeks.

A spot-check later finds the group fanned out and snooping through the trees. Lost a valuable member? No, just the historic Fitzsimmons' Blaze. This is eventually located just west of Melody Creek below the marked trail. Still legible, after thirty-five years of ex­posure to the forces of nature, are the words "King Solomon Claim", the date 1929, and the signatures of Fitzsimmons' party members.

By early afternoon the troop is treading to the Alpine meadows of Singing Pass (5500') where a joyful reunion is held with an advance party of sixteen hikers. Here again Fitz­simmons has left a landmark - a disintegrating log cabin. It is now apparent to all that old Fitzsimmons has tried to steal the show, what with his name being tacked onto a creek, tree, cabin, peak, glacier and mountain range. But there are those who are determined not to let him have all the glory and a new touch is added to history - the first traverse of Fitzsimmons' cabin by Linda Lasalle.

After basking in the sun and photographing the beautiful view to the north of Blackcomb Mtn. in the Spearhead Range and the Cheakamus Glacier, Mt. Davidson and Castle Towers to the south, the hikers turn homeward, while Karl's party proceeds to its next destination, Russet Lake (6200') at the base of Fissile Mtn. However, the ascent of the first ridge serves only to bring a rapid decrease in spirits. Massive clouds of smoke are seen billowing forth from the Fitzsimmons Creek Area into which the hikers have headed and where the cars are parked. Although the group spends the next twenty-four hours imagining the worst, it is later learned that the hikers, even though being caught in a bush fire, escape without injury and the cars are untouched.

Evening falls on a small campsite set up on the heather at Russet Lake, a location which gives a splendid view of the southern peaks in the Spearhead Range. The great leader has come supplied with an endless assortment of goodies and several awards of merit. An out­dated but coveted Playboy goes to Jim for great he-man endurance, (he had skipped over the heather of Singing Pass in bare tootsies). Judy receives a Mad Magazine (no reference to her state of mine intended) in honour of being the first girl to reach camp. Last, but not least, is the delightful, scrumptious addition of beef and vegetables to Linda and Carol's evening meal - yeah Heinz baby-food!

The highlight of the evening's agenda is the moonlit ascent and descent of Fissile (8008') by Jim and Karl in an hour and 55 minutes, and the grand finale, the arranging of five bodies in a space designed for three. H m m m m - How cozy! (Translation: Ye gods! what agony!) Jim abstains from joining the tent^rowd and, accompanied by Playboy, spends a peaceful night under the stars and below 32 temperature.

Up and away the next day we left the ptarmigan and mountain goats to wander in peaceful solitude through the heather and snow fields. The return route is via the summits of Oboe, Flute and Picolo in the Fitzsimmons Rangg to Whistler Mtn. Lunch-time finds the group atop Whistler Mtn. admiring a spectacular 360 view that encompasses the Tantalus, Ashlu and Spearhead Ranges and the peaks from the area of Mt. Davidson and the Cheakamus Glacier through to Panorama Ridge and the Black Tusk.

The descent from Whistler is not without incident. Failure for some time to locate the marked trail leading to the micro-wave road handicaps the speed of the party that is already behind schedule. Eventually the weary hikers emerge from the trees only two and a half hours late to be greeted by a tragic scene. Stretched out on the dirt is the inert form of Dave Higgins complete with a bouquet of weeds and two tragic mourners. Poor Dave. The long wait was just too much for him.

The unanimous conclusion is that for a memorable hike packed with scenery plus two days of sunshine and a swinging group, just head for Singing Pass.

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N . B . F o r a m a p of Singing P a s s area see V O C Journal Vol. VII. It is a three-hour hike without h e a v y p a c k s f r o m Whistler to Singing P a s s .

V O C B O Y S IN T H E B U S H — S U M M E R - 1 9 6 5

In retaliation to last year's article in V O C J V H , " V O C Girls in the R o c k i e s , " w e b o y s w o u l d like to explain w h e r e w e w e r e during the s u m m e r a n d w h a t w e w e r e doing. " W a l k i n g aro u n d o n flat g r o u n d in the b u s h " indeed! Hitch-hiking in a helicopter is m u c h m o r e fun than b y car don't y o u think, girls?

Coast R a n g e — K i t i m a t - B e l l a Coola A s g a r B e n t z e n

T h r e e m o n t h s w e r e spent in the C o a s t R a n g e b e t w e e n Bella Coola a n d Kitimat, prospect­ing for P h e l p s D o d g e . A g o o d section of the country b e t w e e n K i m s q u i t L a k e a n d Coles L a k e w a s c o v e r e d o n foot. Generally it is low country; it is a rare p e a k that reaches 7000'. N o r is the country particularly steep, so a s a result climbers w o u l d b e ill-advised to consider this a s a possible climbing area. F o r geologists, h o w e v e r , time m i g h t b e well spent here, a s the geology is quite interesting.

Kleena-Kleene to Bralorne A r e a A l a n W h e t t e r

W o r k i n g for South W e s t Potash, I started the s u m m e r off like m o s t others this s u m m e r , b y surviving a helicopter crash. G o i n g o n our first fly c a m p , the pilot picked up the Hiller with a 600 lb. load o n it, including m y partner R o n a n d I, a n d flew u p out of the clearing. T h e R . P. M . d r o p p e d a n d so did w e . B y a stroke of g o o d fortune, nothing w a s hurt except the skids (which aren't supposed to collapse). This took place o n the Williams Lake-Bella C o o l a road, near K l e e n a Kleene.

After about a m o n t h of reconnaisance, R o n a n d I w e r e shipped out to help build up a n e w c r e w for property w o r k o n Salal C r e e k , a northern tributary of the Lillooet River. H e r e w e m e t Sandy M c D o n a l d , sent in f r o m another c a m p , a n d f r o m then o n all w e did w a s s c r a m b l e , climb, a n d play bridge. T h e claims w e r e all o n a big o p e n rotten face b e t w e e n 5000' a n d 7000'. A n a d d e d attraction w a s that above the 4700' level, the whole valley w a s devoid of b u g s (and trees, grass, etc.).

It is a lovely area full of glaciers a n d little-climbed or u n c l i m b e d peaks. G e o r g e M u r -guly, a U B C engineer, a n d m y s e l f m a d e a first ascent of a n 8800' p e a k o n a beautiful day a n d picked out higher o n e s only a couple of hours a w a y . I think A C C are the only people w h o h a v e climbed in there, yet our c a m p w a s only half a day's hike f r o m the Bridge Glacier air-strip. It's w o r t h thinking about going b a c k a n y w a y .

Bella Coola A r e a Glenn W o o d s w o r t h

T o s o m e , four m o n t h s of water skiing, climbing, a n d sightseeing f r o m a helicopter m a y not b e appealing, but to six of u s it w a s the ultimate. This (and a bit of w o r k , of course) w a s w h a t the Geological Survey of C a n a d a (GSC) offered last s u m m e r w h e n m a p p i n g the C o a s t R a n g e b e t w e e n Bella Coola a n d the N a s s River.

T h e s u m m e r started uneventfully o n the Outer Islands b e t w e e n Bella Bella a n d Prince Rupert, with the six of u s doing mostly bushwhacking, although B o b W o o d s w o r t h a n d Dick Culbert m a n a g e d to scrape u p one first ascent north of O c e a n Falls. H o w e v e r , b y m i d - s u m m e r w e w e r e firmly established at K h u t z y m a t e e n Inlet, north-west of Prince Rupert, o n the w e s t edge of one of the least explored areas in the C o a s t R a n g e .

O n e foggy night, Dick a n d B o b , a n d T o n y Ellis a n d I, w e r e placed 30 miles apart o n the N a s s - S k e e n a divide a n d told that w e w o u l d b e picked u p in six days. T h a t night, D i c k a n d B o b c l i m b e d ' P a g a n Peak' n a m e d after our chopper pilot, a n d two days later after a chilly bivouac, they c l i m b e d t w o m o r e peaks, w h i c h vaguely r e s e m b l e d the s n o w peaks of the V a n c o u v e r area. After they h a d c l i m b e d the n a m e d p e a k s Z b u r a a n d H u d e m a , a bushy day in the w e s t fork of the K i t s u m k a l u m R . brought t h e m to the a g r e e d pick-up spot.

While Dick a n d B o b w e r e walking miles across huge glaciers, T o n y a n d I w e r e encounter­ing rockier p e a k s with little glaciation. W c c l i m b e d six peaks, of w h i c h the best w a s the first ascent of M t . Voshell. B a d w e a t h e r forced a 3 p. m . start, a n d b y 6 p . m . w e h a d c l i m b e d 'Pluton P k . ' a n d gained the col beyond. Foshell's south-east ridge w a s a long class 3 a n d 4

27 climb, spiced u p b y playing hide a n d seek with the Spectre of the B r o c h e n . T h e false s u m m i t nearly fooled u s in the fog, but b y 8 p. m . w e w e r e o n the true s u m m i t , talking to Dick o n our " P e r s o n a l M e s s e n g e r " portable radio. D e s c e n t was* a race against darkness. W e stopped just long enough to photograph the sunset over the fantastic crags of 'Dents d u Cheval', the highest of w h i c h w e h a d climbed. T h e slog two m i l e s u p the glacier to find o u r c a m p w a s a n -nother race against the o n c o m i n g fog- w e barely w o n .

O n e m o n t h later T o n y a n d I landed at the b a s e of the east ridge of M t . Atna, at 8800', the highest p e a k for m a n y miles. T h e ridge w a s just a scramble; but owing to the v e r y interest­ing geology, it w a s 8 p. m . before w e w e r e standing b y the cairn of the first ascent party. T h e view w a s the best y e t - m a n y old a n d n e w friends could b e seen. D e s c e n t b y the north s n o w ridge w a s a n interesting proposition, involving ice-walls, bergschrunds a n d knife-edge ridges. Finding our p a c k s a m o n g the m o r a i n e at the bottom w a s e v e n m o r e interesting; it w a s 11:30 p. m . before w e w e r e in bed.

T w o days later B o b a n d Dick m a d e the first ascent of 'Dalahorn', the " m o s t w a n t e d p e a k " in the Kitimat area. M e a n w h i l e , T o n y a n d I climbed ' T r a n s m i s s i o n T o w e r ' (second ascent) above the K e m a n o - K i t i m a t road, a rather g o o d r o c k climb. A w e e k later I m a d e the first ascent of 'Pastoral Peak' , eight miles south of Atna, our last climb in the area.

Unfortunately, it w a s the last g o o d peak of the s u m m e r as b a d w e a t h e r h a m p e r e d w o r k a r o u n d Bella Coola. H o w e v e r the Eucott B a y hot-springs a n d sea-cliffs c o m p e n s a t e d s o m e ­what. A n d so the s e c o n d w e e k of S e p t e m b e r found u s o n boats a n d planes o n our w a y to V a n ­couver, after having s e e n s o m e of the m o s t beautiful parts of B . C .

Serb C r e e k - H o w s o n R a n g e R . Harrison

T h e H o w s o n R a n g e , about thirty miles southwest of Smithers, B . C . , f o r m s part of the eastern edge of the C o a s t R a n g e complex. A s u m m e r spent w o r k i n g o n a m o l y b d e n u m p r o p ­erty in these mountains offered little time for climbing but did give u s a c h a n c e to b e c o m e familiar with the general area.

T h e higher peaks, 7000'-9000', have b e e n c a r v e d into sharp angular s u m m i t s b y the last advance of the ice, a n d n u m e r o u s pocket-glaciers line every basin a n d cirque above tree-line. T h e valley-approaches are a tangle of s w a m p s , overgrowth, a n d slide debris; the relief to the peaks is sharp a n d extreme.

D u r i n g the early part of the s u m m e r w e w e r e able to do s o m e skiing o n the s n o w - c o v e r e d m o r a i n e s at the h e a d of the valley. A n hour's hike f r o m c a m p w a s e n o u g h to give u s a mile a n d a half r u n a n d a drop of about 1000 vertical feet. Since m o s t of our skiing w a s done after supper w e generally got b a c k to c a m p just a s it w a s getting dark.

Although impressive to view, the m a i n peak above c a m p w a s not a difficult c l i m b - f r o m one particular ridge. Unfortunately, w e picked the w r o n g ridge o n our first two attempts. A driving s n o w s t o r m forced u s to rope u p a n d retreat f r o m the face of one ridge; a rock-filled gulley that threatened to avalanche aborted the second attempt. G o o d weather, g o o d rock, a n d a n easy s c r a m b l e gave u s the 7000' s u m m i t via the westerly side.

T h e remaining few w e e k s of w o r k p a s s e d slowly a n d no further climbing opportunities presented themselves. During a few "routine geological traverses" w e did m a n a g e to get into s o m e of the higher country a n d enjoy a day of hiking a n d short rock-pitches. O n such occasions rise the ultimate " m o m e n t of t r u t h " — w h e n it's quarter after five, you're still walking a w a y f r o m c a m p , a n d the helicopter isn't b a c k f r o m town. . . .

Stikine A r e a Peter T h o m p s o n

M y s u m m e r w a s great! I learned lots about being a geologist. This is g o o d b e c a u s e that's w h a t I w a n t to b e w h e n I g r o w up.

I w o r k e d in the "Stikine", a hell-hole in B . C . , just east of the A l a s k a Panhandle. T h e b u g s are so b a d w e couldn't w o r k during the day. It rained so h a r d w e all h a d to w e a r h a r d hats to keep f r o m being k n o c k e d unconscious. O n e day w e lost a h e l i c o p t e r — a m o n s t e r "Stikine-type" blackfly flew through the tail rotor a n d k n o c k e d the chopper out of the air.

I m a n a g e d to get one first ascent (7400'). It w a s a "3 c u m 4" peak s m a c k in the middle of

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s o m e of the snarliest straight u p a n d d o w n topography I've ever seen.

O u r c a m p w a s a luxurious b u n c h of tents. T h e food w a s generally good. W e c o m m u t e d to w o r k in a helicopter.

T o s u m it all up: m y s u m m e r w a s great!

E X P E D I T I O N S A N D C L I M B I N G N O T E S *

B U T E I N L E T T O P E M B E R T O N E P I C July 1965 A n n H o l d e n

Jane O l s o n with husbands' help

In the m o n t h of February, 1965, m y h u s b a n d c a m e h o m e one evening, a m a p clutched in his h a n d a n d a fanatical explorer's g l e a m in his eye. " H o w w o u l d y o u like to go o n a 4 0 - m i l e downhill ski t r i p ? " h e said, pointing to a large white area o n the m a p . It s o u n d e d like a g o o d idea, so plans w e r e m a d e . A m o n t h later it w a s "20 m i l e s or so u p a n d about 30 d o w n " , a n d b y a day before w e w e r e to leave it w a s "5 m i l e s up, 3 d o w n , 4 up, one d o w n " , a n d so on. Really, in the end, I'm not so sure w e w e n t d o w n at a l l ! — T h i s should serve a s a w a r n i n g to all wives of mountaineers.

Generally, our plans w e r e to fly to Icewall L a k e east of Bute Inlet, to traverse the glaciers w h i c h stretch a c r o s s the C o a s t R a n g e to Silt L a k e at the h e a d of the Lillooet River, a n d then to w a l k the sandbars beside the river to a r o a d just north of P e m b e r t o n M e a d o w s . T h e a r e a h a d b e e n explored f r o m both ends, but to our knowledge, no one h a d traversed the area.

A c o m p a n y of six w a s a s s e m b l e d for the t r i p — J a n e a n d B y r o n Olson, J i m Craig, D o n Poole (Brownie to m o s t ) , m y h u s b a n d Dennis H o l d e n (rarely k n o w n a s "Pathfinder") a n d m y ­self (alias "Quail").

W e left V a n c o u v e r o n June 26th a n d spent that evening in the B . C . Airlines office a n d lounge near C a m p b e l l River, admiring Playboy calendars a n d various cartoons in the s a m e motif. N e x t m o r n i n g w e loaded the gear a n d ourselves into a B e a v e r a n d took off. A view of M t . W a d ­dington a n d surrounding peaks started the day in a n auspicious w a y . I w a s told that our pilot Al Eustis w a s one of the f e w — p e r h a p s the o n l y — p e r s o n in B . C . w h o w o u l d fly u s into Icewall L a k e (3029') a n d I n o w s a w w h y . T h e lake is s u r r o u n d e d o n three sides b y rock a n d huge ice-falls. If one flew in o n the fourth side so that one "picked the blueberries o n the w a y d o w n " one could land. W e m a d e it!

D o n a n d the pilot picked u p our food f r o m the w h a r v e s at the h e a d of Bute Inlet a n d d r o p p e d the b o x e s o n Filer Glacier. D o n then returned to u s — t h e trip h a s begun.

W e s o o n learned that slide alder a n d shorti skis in p a c k s are incompatible, h o w e v e r five h o u r s later w e w e r e o n the s n o w at the base of the Garrulous Glacier. Five m o r e h o u r s of rock, b u s h a n d rope climbing brought u s level with the top of the G a r r u l o u s icefall a n d to our first c a m p o n a sloping m e a d o w (5700'). T h e icefall lived u p to its n a m e a n d entertained u s with a s y m p h o n y , aptly conducted b y B y r o n a n d culminating in the "10 o'clock e x p r e s s " at w h i c h point w e w e r e glad to b e o n this side of the valley.

N e x t day b r o u g h t u s to the col (7200') b y n o o n a n d w e said goodbye to the last g r e e n e r y for a w e e k . W e traversed the north side of the valley a n d o n skis d e s c e n d e d to the Filer Glacier a n d the airdrop. Forty p o u n d s later w e arrived at Boulder C a m p (4700' S . W . a r m Filer G l a ­cier). Strawberries for supper!

N e x t day w a s bright again. F o u r h o u r s took u s d o w n to the m a i n b o d y of the Filer Glacier a n d across ice a n d s h a d o w to the first valley running eastward. T h e m a p s h o w e d a dry valley — w e found a glacier a n d i m p o s i n g icefall. W e c l i m b e d this o n the rock adjacent to the north edge a n d c a m e onto a c r e v a s s e d snowfield, hot a n d sticky in the late-day sun. W e c a m p e d at the col (7600')—a rocky outcropping in the s n o w .

*See glossary for climbing terminology.

30

B y this time w e h a d discovered certain things about our c o m p a n i o n s . Just b e c a u s e B r o w n i e w o r e a blue & white L I F E G U A R D T-shirt didn't m e a n w e w e r e at a s w i m m i n g party! Actually, it p r o v e d quite useful later w h e n sorting slides—progressing shades of g r e y n e s s told u s o n w h i c h day the pictures w e r e taken. O u r intrepid leader, w e discovered, h a d agili­ties c o m m o n l y found a m o n g m o u n t a i n goat. J i m w a s the m a n with the bright r e d p a c k w h o h a d a visiting h u m m i n g bird a s a fan. W e also p o s s e s s e d a h a r m o n i c a f r o m w h i c h issued s w e e t melodies at sunset. B y r o n w a s in possession of the itchiest beard. A n n a n d I w e r e later described a s " d e w y - f r e s h " by a w e l l - k n o w n V a n c o u v e r columnist although this w a s question­able at the time.

D a y f o u r — o h glorious rest day. Falcon M o u n t a i n w a s attempted via the north a n d east ridges while A n n a n d I lay in the sun. A m o r e feasible route appears to b e the S. W . ridge over steep s n o w a n d b r o k e n rock. After a day of sun, w e strode b a c k to c a m p a s the evening s h a d o w s lengthened. W e p r e p a r e d for a n early start next day.

After breakfast (Brownie thriftily thought if he b u r n e d the m u s h w e wouldn't eat so m u c h ) , w e d o n n e d c r a m p o n s a n d c r o s s e d the steep slope o n h a r d snow. Five h o u r s brought u s to "Brownie's B u m p " (8650') w h e r e n o w a gleefully erected cairn m a r k s the high point.

D e s c e n t of a steep corniced s n o w slope w a s safely accomplished a n d three h o u r s of e n ­joyable skiing brought u s to our highest c a m p (8700 ) o n the ridge north of the very impressive C o m p t o n Neve'.

T o b a Glacier (4500') w a s r e a c h e d next m o r n i n g after a n interesting two h o u r s of c r e v a s s e -dodging o n skis. W e then a s c e n d e d along the east side of the glacier onto the s e c o n d ridge only to find it w a s the third one w e wanted. D o w n a n d u p again in the hot, hot sun. After a frustrating day w e found a perfect campsite-heather ledges, in b l o o m too - small c r e e k a n d a lone m o u n t a i n h e m l o c k - bare feet a n d g o o d discussion - a p a n o r a m a a n d a crescent m o o n .

O u r last day o n the glaciers! T h e route led easily up, across a n d d o w n the B i s h o p G l a ­cier (5000'). It w a s g o o d skiing a n d in the c o m p a n y of Archbishop M t n . a n d others w h i c h offer g o o d climbing possibilities; it w a s m o s t pleasant. T h e long ascent up the Bishop (to 6000') a n d d o w n the Lillooet Glaciers to Silt L a k e took the rest of the day. It w a s a long day. W e covered twenty miles o n skis.

Silt L a k e w a s to u s during s o m e of the m o r e difficult parts of the trip, m u c h like M e c c a to the M o s l e m s ; the only difference being that w e didn't b o w in its direction five times a day — n o prayer m a t s . W e anticipated a pleasant'two day w a l k o n sandbars shaded by g r e e n trees d o w n to the c a r w h i c h w o u l d b e waiting for u s at the e n d of the road. A nasty shock awaited u s ! T h e Lillooet River a n d all its bubbling tributaries w e r e in full a n d glorious flood - thus no sandbars. T h e g r e e n trees certainly provided shade — full a n d complete coverage f r o m the g r o u n d up. Actually the w o r d " g r e e n " doesn't quite adequately describe the full range of that colour w h i c h " m e t the eye". T h e r e w e r e the soft pale g r e e n cushions of slide alder w h i c h tumbled d o w n the hillsides, the large spiked yellow g r e e n leaves of devil's club w h i c h w a v e d against the dark cedars, the r o w s of blue g r e e n firs w h i c h dipped a n d c l i m b e d over every ravine — the variations w e r e unlimited.

W e spent three long a n d tiring d a y s w a d i n g through s w a m p , swatting mosquitoes, cursing devil's club, a n d climbing u p a n d d o w n ravines. O u r skis w e r e quickly left behind after the first thicket of willow a n d slide alder w e r e encountered. W e b e c a m e expert s t r e a m crossers, log walkers, a n d s w a m p sloshers.

In the three days w e travelled 34 m a p miles, spending 12 or m o r e hours e a c h day O n the "trail". W e c r a s h e d out of the b u s h at one in the m o r n i n g of the fourth day, convinced that w e ' d done a long a n d h a r d battle with a n evil presence that lived in the valley. In ten d a y s w e h a d c o v e r e d 75 m a p m i l e s !

W e stretched out o n the road, vaguely c o n c e r n e d that the cars w e r e not in evidence. T h e next m o r n i n g , after a breakfast of tea, w e set off d o w n the road, located the c a r s a n d jubil­antly drove into P e m b e r t o n M e a d o w s . T w o breakfasts each later w e w e r e convinced that this h a d b e e n the best trip ever.

31 ' F I V E F I N G E R S '

M a y 8-10,1965 B o b W o o d s w o r t h

Seeking to escape the blizzards that seemingly followed V O C e v e r y w h e r e , J a c k Bryceland, T o n y Ellis a n d I looked about for s o m e nearby first ascents. T h e 'Five Fingers', untouched since 1940, a n d visible f r o m V a n c o u v e r , h a d long reflected the lethargic attitude of the aver­age V a n c o u v e r climber.

T h u s , o n a clear Saturday m o r n i n g , w e d u m p e d our 12' boat (the Instability H) into Pitt L a k e a n d sputtered 15 m i l e s u p to the m o u t h of D e b e c k C r e e k . F r o m here, the p e a k s located o n the Pitt Lake-Coquitlam Divide a p p e a r e d rather distant. T h e y w e r e ! Eight h o u r s later w e set u p a low, low high c a m p — 1 5 0 0 ' lower than w e h a d anticipated.

N e x t m o r n i n g frozen boots w e r e b a s h e d onto frozen feet, c a m p w a s dismantled, a n d w e slogged the remaining 1500' to a n airy campsite at the edge of 'Consolation Lake'. Lassitude reigned s u p r e m e until 12 n o o n w h e n inertia w a s finally o v e r c o m e . T h e 6000', ' T h u m b ' w a s quickly ascended; a class 4 descent off the backside led to easy snow, rock, a n d the s u m m i t of the 'Middle Finger', highest of the group. W e h a d m a d e a u n a n i m o u s decision to forego the 'Forefinger' a n d h e a d e d instead for the u n c l i m b e d 'Ring' a n d 'Little Fingers' to the north. W e d e s c e n d e d via steep snow-slopes, by-passing a n imposing g e n d a r m e , "the Fingernail" a n d arrived at the 'Ring Finger' at 5 p. m . T h e generally overhanging face p r o v e d to have flaws o n the southwestern side, a n d by 6 p. m . cairn building c e r e m o n i e s w e r e over. Descending b y the s a m e route, w e traversed o n easy s n o w to the 'Little Finger', a quarter of a m i l e to the south. B y 7 p. m . w e h a d m a d e our s e c o n d first ascent of the day; a n h o u r later w e stag­g e r e d into c a m p having glissaded d o w n a few handy avalanche gullies. T h e usual squeeze of three into a t w o - m a n tent, supper a n d then sleep followed in rapid succession.

T h e g o o d w e a t h e r held for the packout the next day a n d b y 3 p . m . w e r e a c h e d our c a c h e d boat. A n hour of organization w a s followed b y two of prayer a s w e w a l l o w e d our w a y b a c k d o w n the lake to our car a n d civilization.

S Q U A M I S H C H I E F A R E A

N E W R O U T E S A T S Q U A M I S H H a m i s h M u t c h

Since the publication of the B . C . C o a s t R a n g e Guide (Dick Culbert's) earlier this year a n u m b e r of n e w routes have b e e n done in the S q u a m i s h Chief area, the majority of t h e m by m e m b e r s of V O C . All the established routes in the S q u a m i s h a r e a before this y e a r n u m b e r e d about t w o dozen. This year, approximately fifteen first ascents w e r e done, a n indication of the growing interest in rock climbing. This year's n e w climbs a r e s u m m a r i z e d below, the order being with respect to the location of the climb, the m o s t northerly o n e s c o m i n g first. A star beside the n a m e s of m e m b e r s of first ascent parties indicates that that p e r s o n is or h a s b e e n a V O C ' e r . All references are to Dick Culbert's C o a s t R a n g e Guide. T h e r e is a copy in the V O C library. F o r a guide to t e r m s a n d n u m b e r ratings see glossary.

O n 'The Chief

'The Terror' - T. A u g e r * , H . M u t c h * N o v . '65 class 5. 3, A . 2 . . is a direct ascent of the p r o m i n e n t overhang o n the right wall of the 'south Gully' below its first pitch. Details: 3 pitches, 2 belays in slings, 8 horizontals, 12 x 3/4-2 1/2 " pitons.

'The A m p h i t h e a t r e ' - G . W o o d s w o r t h * , A . Ellis* Oct.'65 class 5.4, A . 2. .. a n " a i d " route starting at the left h a n d e n d of the 'Snake L e d g e 1 (again, references a r e all to established n a m e s in Dick's guide) Details: 4 pitches, 2 sling belays, 5 knifeblade pitons, 10 other pins u p to 1".

'Gringo a G o Go' - H . M u t c h * , G . D u n h a m * , B . M c K n i g h t * . Sept.'65 class 5.4,A.2 ... the fact that this route depends o n three hore n d o u s rope throws indicates it m a y be s o m e t i m e before it is repeated. Route consists of nine pitches, using 4 knifeblades, 6 horizontals, 4 x 2-2 1/2" angles.

' B a n a n a Peel' - D . Tate, B . H a g e n (Faculty U B C ) July '65 class 5.6. . .4 slab pitches situated b e t w e e n 'the Sickle' a n d 'Slab Alley'.

32

'Northwest P a s s a g e ' - F . B e c k e y , L . Patterson (Faculty U B C ) H. M a t h e r , A . Bertulis. G r a d e V I ... this route of m a j o r proportions took seven d a y s of climbing to c o m ­plete, 3 days for the final past for the top. It ascends the 1700' face directly b e ­low the south s u m m i t about 100 y a r d s left of the G r a n d W a l l route.

'Exasperator Route' - D . Tate, R . C r o w , July'65 class 5. 6, A . 1.. . 2 pitches o n a crack s y s t e m 200' right of the Peasants Route. S o m e 2 " angles needed.

'Yosemite Pinnacle' - H . M u t c h * , G . W o o d s w o r t h * , M a v i s M c Q u a i g * , Oct.'65 class 5. 8, A . 1 ... this route up the 5 pitches of classical a n d difficult c h i m n e y o n the p r o m i n e n t afoliation, flake to the left of the 'South South Gully', take 6 horizon­tal pitons a n d 6 x 1 - 1 1/2" angles.

U n n a m e d - R . Culbert*, Alice P u r d e y * . N o v . '65 ... consists of 3 pitches of 4th-5th class climbing starting just to the left of the last pitch of 'Crap C r a g s ' near the top of the Chief.

O n the P G E Cliff (Malemute)

'The Id' - D . Tate, B . H a g e n . N o v . '65 A 2 . . . 5 pitches (short) of starting 50 feet right of 'The Crescent' Route requiring a large selection of pitons including knifeblades.

P a p o o s e Cliff 'Hanging G a r d e n s ' - J. C o o p e (Faculty U B C ) , M . Robertson. Oct.'65 class - u n k n o w n

... a b u s h y c r a c k s y s t e m approx. 4 leads o n the left h a n d side of the cliff.

U n n a m e d - F . B e c k e y , E . Bjornstaad. Oct.'65 fifth a n d six class ... this route, c l i m b ­ing the entire height of the 400' cliff starts b e t w e e n the ' Hanging G a r d e n s ' a n d the 'Hairpin C r a c k ' a n d c r o s s e s the overhang in the m i d d l e of the face. T h e r e are approx. a d o z e n bolts with hangers in place a n d a large a s s o r t m e n t of h a r d w a r e is necessary.

'Hairpin C r a c k 1 - T . A u g e r * , D . Tate. A u g . '65 class 5. 4, A . 1 ... 3 long pitches start­ing with a pretty finger traverse, zigzags u p the b r o k e n portion of the face 200' right of the above u n n a m e d route of the P a p o o s e Cliff. A n a s s o r t m e n t of angle a n d horizontal pitons are necessary.

'Limbo' Route - H . M u t c h * , T. A u g e r * , Oct.'65 A . 2 ... 3 long aid pitches lead f r o m the m i d d l e of the second pitch o n the 'Pinup Route' climbing up a n d left o n bottoming cracks.

Late Arrivals

Variation o n U p p e r N o r t h N o r t h Arete - L . Patterson, G . W o o d s w o r t h * , April '65 class 5. 6, A . 1 ... about 5 leads ascending prominently c h i m n e y s y s t e m to left of 'Guide' route. 8 assorted pitons.

'Eschelon Route' - R . Culbert? A . P u r d e y * Nov.'65 low fifth class ... a n ill-defined route line ascending u p a n d left f r o m top of cave pitch in the South Gully.

N O R T H A R E T E — S Q U A M I S H C H I E F Sept. 1964 B o b W o o d s w o r t h

In late S e p t e m b e r , m y brother Glenn, T o n y Ellis a n d I attempted the difficult-looking North Arete.

W e c l i m b e d several pitches, including a difficult 75' j a m c r a c k a n d steep aid pitch w h i c h brought u s about half w a y u p the lower part of the Arete. Unfortunately o u r slow but steady tortoise pace g r o u n d to a halt b e c a u s e of the darkness. O u r first rappel j a m m e d a n d w e re­signed ourselves to a cold bivouac o n a six-foot ledge. Early next m o r n i n g , w e d e s c e n d e d to avoid a M o u n t a i n R e s c u e callout.

W e n o w h a d a n official "grudge c l i m b " so, o n V O C "Chief D a y " W a d e Chernekoff a n d I decided to m a k e a n all-out attack o n the N o r t h Arete. W e left the c a r s at 4 a. m . a n d c l i m b e d the first two pitches with h e a d l a m p s . B y 11 a. m . w e h a d r e a c h e d our previous high-point. W e

Nevada Ranralpalca - Peru South Butress of Mt. Moran, the Tetons, Wy. photos - H. B. Mutch

3 4

s c r a m b l e d u p e a s y r o c k f o r 3 0 0 ' a n d r e s t e d o n a l e d g e f r o m w h e r e w e w a t c h e d P e t e T h o m p ­

s o n ' s p a r t y a s c e n d i n g t h e N o r t h G u l l y . E v e n t u a l l y w e s t a r t e d a m e s s y - l o o k i n g a i d p i t c h a n d

t w o v e r t i c a l m o s s c l i m b s . B y 4 p . m . w i t h o n e h o u r o f d a y l i g h t l e f t , w e h a d a r r i v e d j u s t b e ­

l o w t h e t w o r o c k p i n n a c l e s , t h e A c r o p h o b e s . W e t r a v e r s e d t o t h e r i g h t a n d u n d e r t h e m t o

w h e r e C a r a m b a C r a g s , a c l i m b I h a d d o n e t w o y e a r s b e f o r e , m e e t s t h e A r e t e r o u t e . H a d t w o

y e a r s o f c l i m b i n g m a d e a n y d i f f e r e n c e ? N o ! F a m i l i a r m o v e s c a m e t o m i n d . I u s e d t h e s a m e

p i t o n s i n t h e s a m e p l a c e ; t h e s a m e s l i n g s a r o u n d t h e s a m e t r e e s . A t 5 p . m . w e r e a c h e d t h e

A c r o p h o b e s l e d g e , a n d g r a t e f u l l y a t e f o o d l e f t b y t h e N o r t h G u l l y p a r t y . A n h o u r l a t e r w e

w e r e s i n g i n g s o n g s i n t h e K a k a d e m o n K l o s e t w i t h m u l t i V O C ' e r s .

N O R T H N O R T H A R E T E — S Q U A M I S H C H I E F

S e p t . 1 9 6 4 B o b W o o d s w o r t h

J u s t b e f o r e t h e b e g i n n i n g o f l e c t u r e s , W a d e C h e r n e k o f f a n d I d e c i d e d t o d r i v e u p a n d

r e c c e t h e i m p o s i n g u n c l i m b e d n o r t h e r n b u t t r e s s o f t h e S q u a m i s h C h i e f . W e h a d n o i n t e n t i o n

o f c l i m b i n g i t , j u s t a r e c c e . A t n o o n w e s c r a m b l e d u p t h r o u g h t h e t r e e s t o t h e a r e t e b a s e ,

a n d s o o n a f t e r r o p e d u p t o b e g i n t h e f i r s t e a s y c h i m n e y - l i k e p i t c h . A n h o u r o f e a s y b u s h ,

c o u p l e d w i t h t h e o d d i n t e r e s t i n g s e c t i o n , b r o u g h t u s t o t h e f i r s t m a j o r o b s t a c l e . I t l o o k e d

e a s y f r o m b e l o w , s o I s t a r t e d t h e l e a d w i t h o u t p i t o n s o r h a m m e r . H o w e v e r , a f t e r a t r e e

c l i m b ( b a r f ! ) t h e r o c k g o t p r o g r e s s i v e l y h a r d e r . S o o n I f o u n d m y s e l f 7 5 ' a b o v e W a d e w i t h o u t

a n y p r o t e c t i o n d o i n g f a i r c l a s s 5 . O n l y 1 5 ' t o g o a n d t h e n I c a m e t o a s t e e p j a m c r a c k . T h e

h e s i t a t i n g s t e p f o l l o w e d b y t h e c a u t i o u s l o o k d o w n c o n v i n c e d m e t h a t i t w a s i n s a n e t o a t t e m p t

t h e c r a c k w i t h o u t p r o t e c t i o n . A f t e r c r a w l i n g d o w n 4 0 ' , I b e l a y e d W a d e u p a n d p a s t m e . H e

c o n t i n u e d u p t o t h e c r a c k a n d w i t h t h e h e l p o f a n a i d p i t o n , d i d a v e r y n i c e l e a d t o t h e b e l a y

t r e e . T h e n e x t p i t c h i n v o l v e d a 5 . 6 s t e p a c r o s s a f l a k e a n d t h e n w e w e r e o n e a s i e r g r o u n d .

A s w e w e r e n o w a b o u t t w o - t h i r d s o f t h e w a y u p t h e a r e t e , w i t h t h e f i r s t m a j o r s e c t i o n

c o n q u e r e d , w e b e g a n t o e n t e r t a i n s e r i o u s t h o u g h t s o f a c t u a l l y c o m p l e t i n g t h e c l i m b . W i t h 4

h o u r s d a y l i g h t l e f t i t w a s c e r t a i n l y w o r t h a t r y . C l a s s 4 s c r a m b l i n g b r o u g h t u s t o t h e A r e t e

c r e s t . W h e r e t o g o ? T T S T K B I G T B C . A 1 0 " w i d e j a m f o l l o w e d b y 4 0 ' o f l a y b a c k s a n d

a s s o r t e d c r a w l i n g p r o v e d t o b e t h e a n s w e r - t h e h a r d e s t p i t c h o n t h e A r e t e ( 5 . 7 ) , a b e a u t i f u l

l e a d b y W a d e . A s h o r t k n i f e - b l a d e a i d c r a c k f o l l o w e d b y a n o t h e r 6 0 ' a i d a n d f r e e p i t c h b r o u g h t

u s c l o s e t o t h e t o p . B u t m o a n , g r o a n , o u r p l a n n e d e x i t r o u t e w a s i m p o s s i b l e . T h e c l a s s i c

s i t u a t i o n o f d e f e a t o n t h e l a s t p i t c h l e d t o p r e p a r a t i o n s f o r a l o n g s e r i e s o f r a p p e l s a n d t h o u g h t s

o f a c h i l l y b i v o u a c . B u t d o e s a c l i m b e r w r i t e u p s u c h a c l i m b ? N o ! S u d d e n l y I s a w l i g h t o f

t h e s e t t i n g s u n s t r e a m i n g t h r o u g h a h o l e o n t h e A r e t e . C o u l d t h i s b e t h e a n s w e r ? I c r a w l e d

d o w n a b o u t 3 0 ' , j a m m e d a 5 . 6 c h i m n e y , s p i r a l e d u p t h r o u g h t h e h o l e a n d v o i l a ! I t w a s i n t h e

b a g ! A v e r y e x p o s e d 5 . 4 j a m c r a c k l e d t o t h e s u m m i t j u s t a s d a r k s e t t l e d o n t o p o f t h e C h i e f

— a s p e c t a c u l a r e n d t o a c l a s s i c c l i m b .

G R A N D W A L L R O U T E — S Q U A M I S H C H I E F

M a y , 1 9 6 5 T i m A u g e r

A t 9 a . m . o n e S a t u r d a y D a n T a t e ( B C M C ) a n d T i m A u g e r b e g a n u p a r o p e , " f i x e d " a w e e k

e a r l i e r , o n " t h e f l a k e r o u t e " a t t h e b a s e o f t h e G r a n d W a l l . A l o n g t i m e h a d b e e n s p e n t p r e ­

p a r i n g f o r t h e l o n g f a c e r o u t e o f t h e C h i e f a t S q u a m i s h b u t t h e f i n a l s t a r t , a h u r r i e d o n e , w a s

t y p i f i e d b y t h e f a c t t h a t I h a d t o r e t u r n t o t h e g r o u n d t o g e t a f o r g o t t e n p i e c e o f e q u i p m e n t .

F r o m t h e e n d o f t h e f i r s t f i x e d r o p e w e c l i m b e d f r e e t h e r e s t o f t h e w a y t o t h e t o p o f t h e

F l a k e , a n d , h a u l i n g o u r h e a v y l o a d o f g e a r b e h i n d u s , a s c e n d e d a n o t h e r f i x e d r o p e u p t h e

s t e e p s l a b s a b o v e . I t w a s o n t h e s e a n d o t h e r c r a c k l e s s s l a b s t h a t C o o p e r a n d B a l d w i n h a d

s p e n t s o m u c h o f t h e i r 2 8 d a y s b o l t i n g , o n t h e f i r s t a s c e n t . W e h a d t o a s c e n d m a n y o f t h e

b o l t s , w h i c h w e r e i n p o o r c o n d i t i o n , b y p l a c i n g " h a n g e r s " o n t h e m w i t h o u t t h e u s u a l n u t s .

I n o n e s p o t w e p l a c e d o u r o n e b o l t o f t h e c l i m b i n a h o l e w h i c h B a l d w i n a n d C o o p e r h a d m a d e

a n d w h i c h s t i l l h a d a b r o k e n d r i l l s t u c k i n i t .

T h e c l i m b i n g a n d h a u l i n g o f p a c k s p r o v e d t e d i o u s a n d w h e n w e f i n a l l y r e a c h e d t h e c r a c k s

o f t h e v e r t i c a l p o r t i o n o f t h e W a l l ( 5 0 0 ' ) i t w a s m i d a f t e r n o o n . A s t h e c l e a r d a y l i g h t b e g a n t o

f a d e w e r e a c h e d t h e t o p o f t h e ' S p l i t P i l l a r ' , a l o n g c l a s s i c a l l y b e a u t i f u l c r a c k a s c e n d e d u s i n g

a r t i f i c i a l a i d s a n d j a m m i n g t e c h n i q u e s . T h e c o o l n i g h t w a s p a s s e d h e r e o n t h e t i n y l e d g e . W e

b i v o u a c k e d i n s l i n g s i n t h e r e l a t i v e c o m f o r t p r o v i d e d b y a n 1 8 " l e d g e a n d a w a r m c o v e r b a g .

W e e v e n s l e p t .

A t 5 a . m . w e b e g a n c l i m b i n g a g a i n , c o n t i n u i n g u p a b o u t 2 5 ' o f ' h a i r y ' ( a t t h a t e l e v a t i o n )

j a m c r a c k s , t h e n a l o n g a i d p i t c h c u l m i n a t i n g i n a n o v e r h a n g . T w o m o r e l o n g p i t c h e s o f a i d i

35

on bolts on an aesthetically appealing vertical face led to the broken section known as "the flats". Time was draining swiftly away. Dan negotiated a difficult pitch of very poor cracks and then a free traverse. The awkward route line fouled our ropes and I was therefore on a self belay when the piton I was standing on pulled out and disappeard down the cliff (I didn't follow it, I'm writing this article). W e made the pitch anyway, and after ascending a 6. 0 overhanging crack, (rating for straight forward aid cracks) for 40', were back in a position to retrieve the equipment left behind on the messy pitch. At 8 p. m. after climbing all day with little food, and no water—we dropped most of it about 40' off the ground—we finished the last pitch of direct aid and layback cracks to the "Dance Platform", a large ledge near the top of the Wall, from which we could exit to the side of the cliff.

The climb, about three-quarter's the height of Ed Cooper's and Jim Baldwin's route had taken two long days in perfect weather and was almost entirely direct aid including seven "hanging" belay stations. The fourteen pitches lead to a vertical height of approximately 1000'.

EDITOR'S NOTE:

Jim Baldwin made the first ascent of the Grand Wall route of the Stawamus Chief with Ed Cooper in 1961. He did much of his early climbing in the Vancouver area with local climbers. Jim, from Prince Rupert, was a student at UBC. After climbing the Grand Wall he began climbing in Yosemite Park in California. Among other great climbs was his first ascent of the 'Dihedral Wall' on El Capitan—one of the longest climbs in Yosemite Valley.

Jim died last year in a fall on the direct route of Washington Column in Yosemite.

CLIMBING O N C A M P U S Dick Culbert

The 1964-64 season saw an unprecedented increase in the number of new routes on camp­us buildings. Three very successful evenings of "cat burglar" training were held, and thoroughly enjoyed by participants. Newcomers to this sport will soon discover that climbing difficulties make only half of the challenge and a wild collection of stories and events have al­ready been collected by teams across the years. A looseleaf guidebook to the campus willbe ready by Christmas.

The stone wall northeast of the Law building proved especially popular for getting into climbing shape. The idea is to start at the west end and traverse without touching top or bottom, leaving a stone where you drop off and trying again from beginning next day, moving your stone if you get further. The entire wall to the walk west of the chapel has been done in one go.

The beaches also saw some activity. A practice piton route on the old gun placements was successful as a training aid, and rappel practice on the sand bluffs was held. This last brainwave is not recommended, as sand-covered ropes have proved adept at sawing through clothes and sand grains between rope fibres likely do not improve the breaking strength.

A compass course between University and Chancellor Boulevards was organized by Dan Phelps. It had some interesting swamp-offsets, and it is a pity that only eight people turned up for this competition. It was a relatively painless introduction to the art.

In retrospect, the climbing potential of the campus is limited only by the initiative of its climbers. Not counting minor structures such as huts, about seventy buildings on campus are known to have had at least one route put up them, many of them difficult. Nine major struct­ures (other than residences) appear to have repelled all comers. These are:

Lasserre Building Old Administration Building Largest of Bio-Med Buildings Westbrook Engineering Building South wing Chemistry Building Henry Angus Building South wing Education Building Final blockhouse on Freddy Wood

Three stories up on the Hebb -'North East Arete' "Cow" on a hairy layback on a Chapel route U B C Building Climbing photo by Dick Culbert photo by Glenn Woodsworth

37

T H E C L E V E L A N D C A P E R Spring 1965 Dick Culbert

In spring Cleveland Lake was released to allow grouting, and abatement of water in the spillway disclosed two continuous pitonable cracks running up from a lip at bottom of the spillway proper. The layout was tempting.

First attempt drew a fair crowd, a little too big as it proved. The plan was to send one party down the spillway on several ropes tied together. They would begin the piton route from the lip. A second party was to work along the canyon walls just above water level, then climb rock to the toe of the dam. A 40' cement wall here would have to be nailed to the spillway lip. If all went well, the main spillway crack climb would have been well under way by this time.

Our canyon party (Alice Purdey, Dan Tate, Dick Culbert) circumvented the pool in good order. A great pipe dumping water from Seymour R. off the canyon rim kept up a steady roar and saturated the darkness. It was a psychologically intimidating gorge below the twin colossi of cement and sound. Next a lead up a small waterfall led to the base of the concrete.

Suddenly the entire battery of lights across the bridge of the dam went on. Beneath the toe, our canyon party was hidden, and when the lights went off Dan began to piton up the wall, assuming the upper party had been apprehended and were comfortable in jail. A s a matter of fact, they were still untangling ropes and were as mystified as we as to why the lights had gone on. Soon Tim Auger pushed off on the big spillway rappel.

Within 15' of the spillway lip, Dan's crack in the concrete ran out, disappointing, but there was no way. He returned and rappelled back to the pools. Suddenly, there was Tim on the dam lip. "Have a prussick line!" he yelled, throwing the end of the rappel rope to us. Spirits rose — then the lights mysteriously went on again. This time it was the cops. Tim slid quickly off the toe and we all dropped to pool level. Climbing back around the walls with the floodlights playing through the canyon waterfall was eerie. On the bridge, meanwhile, mad waterboard official, confused fuzz, and assorted climbers were hashing it out. Ropes were pulled up and the climbers escaped in the confusion. The canyon party passed a water-board truck on a narrow road and also disappeared.

For two weeks a flume part way down the spillway was activated. "A bunch of nuts tried to climb that thing," said the maintainence man, "so we keep that water playing on it. Guess they aren't coming back though, we're turning it off tomorrow." The old canyon party re­turned on the following night.

This time a direct rappel from the bridge to the lip was used. Dick and Dan made the ascent, with Dan leading. Two hanging stations were needed and the constant roar of falling water hampered communication. The crack was gritty, and pitons pulled on three occasions. It was getting on toward five in the morning when the top of the spillway was finally gained, and on the superstructure above we roped for the final part of the ascent. At this point our shouting reached the watchman and the lights went on again. Alice held off the cops on the bridge, and they finished their questions and were gone by the time two tired climbers reached the handrail. A subpoena was threatened, but never arrived. After all Cleveland Lake was already rising once again and climbers would hardly be a permanent problem on the spillway.

ARTHUR'S SEAT (ART'S ASS) Mar. 1965 Alice Purdey

What is a midterm break? Why, a holiday from campus classes when one can go climb­ing, of course. So last Spring, Dan Tate (BCMC), Dick Culbert, Wayne Henze, Bryce How­ard, Edwin Bussy and I decided to climb Chimney Rock in Marble Canyon.

This done, we headed south to recce both a pinnacle seen on the banks of the Thompson River between Ashcroft and Spence's Bridge, and the extensive rock presented on the East face of Arthur's Seat, just south of Spence's Bridge. Dan, Wayne, and Edwin went off to ex­amine the pinnacle while Dick, Bryce and I headed over to the rock face.

Eight hours of pure pleasure in the sunshine lay ahead as we approached our anticipated route. Climbing was mainly class three with some class four here and there. For the most part the rock was firm with a wide range of possible routes being offered.

The Barrier - a rubble heap on Rubble Creek. Also Barrier Lake, Lesser Garibaldi Lake and Garibaldi Lake photo by Phil Sutherland

39

The descent, however, was not quite as enjoyable. After deciding the location of the sum­mit was arbitrary, being relatively flat with little hills and bumps, we headed off and down the backside of the mountain.

Thigh-deep soft snow, bushwacking, creek-fording, and darkness all had to be met be­fore we eventually stumbled onto a road. After a few miles of walking back around the mount­ain, we finally reached the cars where the other three were waiting. Their pinnacle had proven much too rotten to climb.

Being somewhat bushed, the drive home is a vague memory. However, we did arrive in time to clean up for Tuesday morning classes.

PHYLLIS'S ENGINE Oct. 2-3, 1965. Dick Culbert

Friday night we camped by the cars at Rubble Creek with a party of six, (Jack Bryceland, Bob Cuthbert, Alice Purdey, Dan Tate, Tony Ellis, Dick Culbert). W e left shortly after dawn and in two hours were hiking across the Black Tusk Meadows, somewhat amazed at all the garbage cans, hoo-hoos, and new trails scattered about. The weather looked promising.

From Black Tusk Lake we packed over the ridge at the head of Helm Glacier and descend­ed to Gentian Pass where most of the party left packs for camp. Everybody went over the next ridge that afternoon for a look at the Engine—three made it—hmmm—could prove inter­esting. Dan and Dick scrambled on up Castle Towers, deciding that this was the biggest hay­wire mixup yet found in the guidebook. Camp in Gentian Pass was very comfortable—a little too much so when it came to getting under way next morning.

As only Bob and Jack had had the presence of mind to bring crampons, a couple of inter­esting hours of step cutting evolved before reaching the Engine. Rock and wind were cold, but clear of snow. One switchback on ledges took us half way up from the snow, then a pleasant crack climb led to near the summit ridge. Next came a very unusual chimney passing clear through the structure. There must be an over-hanging block in the east face, for part way through the Engine it is possible to look down between one's legs, past a few chockstones at sunlit slabs far below. Soon we were all at the base of the Smokestack (highest of the summit pinnacles).

With a questionable piton for protection, Dan quickly turned the final crack. Other rope leaders fared less well, Dick pulling out a flake and grabbing a hand-line, Jack falling and breaking a tooth. Lo and behold—no no it can't be! oh yes it is A CAIRN!! !#$%&"§#. No record, just a piton and carabiner and TF scraped in the summit lichen near the cairn. TF ? .. . Tom Fyles had been one of the greatest of the old time climbers. Were people doing class 5.5 free in 1930? Speculation was heavy as we rappelled off and headed back to camp. It continued as we packed back over glaciers and meadows, then down the trail by flashlight.

Actually we were among the few of our group who did not know the story by that time. Friends climbing in the Sky Pilot area that weekend had met the two young mountaineers just out from Switzerland who had made the first ascent of Phyllis's Engine on the previous Thurs­day—just three days before our visit. That had to be a classic.

T W O TO P E R U Spring 1965 H. B. Mutch

On February 2nd, 1965, Gordie Dunham and I left Mexico City to climb the 17, 800' vol­cano, Popocatepetl, which is fairly accessible by road. From the Paso de Cortes we easily hiked up to a hut at about 12,000'. The next day we climbed on poor snow to a second tiny hut located in a very windblown col at 15, 5000' on the north side of the mountain. The third morn-

40

ing we cramponed very slowly up an easy ice gradient to the impressive view of the crater. This route is called the "Ventorillo Labio Superior", whatever that may mean, and is classed as "Very Dangerous" under the Mexican system. However this is an exaggeration, and the trip is quite easy, and highly recommended to anyone visiting the area. W e had intended to climb Ixtaccihuatal, 17,300', during the next two days but after some rationalizations about the weather, we decided to go to Acapulco instead.

Later, in Lima, for last April, Gordie and I ran into John Ricker, an old VOC'er, who immediately agreed to join us for a couple of weeks of climbing in the Andes. On April 27th Gordie and I left Huaras to hike up the Quebrada Ishinca, in the Cordillera Blanca, a trip we had been told took 8 hours. Three days and many storms later we arrived.

On May 2nd we climbed Nevada Ishinca, 18,150', an easy ascent via the west ridge. Later that day John arrived, having left Lima several days after us. After several other efforts and endeavours we decided to attempt the Nevada Ranrapalca, 20,220'. On May 5th we cut steps to a height of 19,000' on the N. E. face. May 7th we rose at 2 a. m. for a second attempt, and initially made good time in our old steps. Six hours of cutting steps in hard ice brought us to the summit plateau, and then the summit at 1 p. m. The weather had been de­teriorating all day and commenced to snow as we started down. Our steps were immediately covered by the dry snow which poured constantly down the steep face. Dangerous avalanche conditions and total whiteout prevailed during the descent. W e were fortunate to find our way to the glacier below without having to bivouac. Continued snow and lack of food saw us head­ing back down the valley a couple of days later.

W e were in the Andes during the rainy/snowy season - it snowed almost half the time we were there. Normally little climbing is done before July. Our ascent of Ranrapalca, 20, 220', is probably the earliest in the year that a peak of over 6,000 metres has ever been climbed in the Cordillera Blanca.

M O R E A N D E A N ASCENTS July/Aug. 1965 Notes taken from a letter from John Ricker

In July and August of 1965, Ken Baker, John Ricker, (both old member VOC'ers), Lisle Irwin and Gerald Holdsworth made the following ascents in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru:

Huascaran Norte, 21,800'. This is the second highest peak in Peru. Climbed via the south ridge from Gargarta Col by Ricker, Irwin, Holdsworth, on July 18th.

Nevada Ishinca, 18,150'. Climbed from the south side by a full party on July 29th.

Palcaraju , 20,500'. Climbed via a new route on the south face by a full party on August 3rd.

Pucaranra, 20,100'. Climbed via new route on the south face by Baker and Holdsworth on August 17th.

Atunomontepunco , 17,700'. Climbed via the east ridge by Ricker and Irwin; Baker and Hold­sworth climbed it via the southwest slopes on August 24th.

T H E TETONS July 1965 H. B. Mutch

During the first week of July, Dennis Mehmet, a climber from New York who I had met in Yosemite, and I climbed the S. buttress and S. ridge of Mt. Moran, a 12, 594' peak in Grand Teton National Park. This is a very enjoyable two day rock climb, where all the diffi­culties are encountered in the first day.

The first two pitches are up a shallow chimney, which leads to an exposed and ever-steepening series of face climbing pitches. Finally we stood on a six-inch ledge, on an 80 face, below an immense overhang. The trick was now to traverse right around the edge of it. W e climbed up a thin crack for 30' (5. 7) until a bolt was reached, and then made a 60' pendu­lum-tension traverse across the smooth wall to the right, to reach a very exposed 2" wide belay ledge. A short aid pitch, and a 100' hand traverse finally brought us around the edge of the overhang and to a good bivouac site. W e reached the summit at 1 p. m. on the second day and descended via the C. M. C. route.

41

Glenn Woodsworth "nailing" a crack on the Chief at Squamish photo by Toni Ellis

42

A week later Joe Faint, also from Yosemite, and I climbed the N.face of the Grand Teton, 13,747', one of T H E classical alpine routes on the continent. This is a difficult mixed snow and rock route, up the 2000' wall. W e left Jenny lake at 1 a. m. to avoid the customary bivouac usually made before or after the climb (some people make both). It was a cold and snowy day and so the fall of rock and ice was light, only one large block of ice falling near us — w e were fortunately beneath an overhang at the time. W e wore down jackets all day, and reached the summit at 4 p. m. —visibility was zero and it was cold. W e descended the stand­ard Owen-Spalding route and were back at Jenny Lake by 9 p. m.

GLOSSARY

Experience has taught the editors that what fouls up most people in the climbing articles is vocabulary. Here's a bit of help!

Aid. Direct Aid, Artificial Aid, Nailing, Pinning, Tension: ... terms all referring to the use of artificial techniques, pitons driven into cracks, bolts driven into solid rock...

"Angles", "Knifeblades", "Horizontals"-types of pitons.

Arete: ... a steep pronounced ridge.

Bivouac: ... a sort of camp. . .usually a forced night out with only the bare essentials available... like on a teenie ledge.

Col: ... a high pass between two peaks.

Classic: ... aesthetically appealing.

Exposure: ... on a steep climb, "the amount of nothing between you and the first bounce".

Hairy: ... intellectually - hair-raising. ... emotionally - ... gulp!

Jam-cracking, Laybacking: . .. techniques of getting up certain types of fissures in the rocks.

Peel: ... to fall, (ask Peter "Peeler" 1).

Pitch: ... the distance one member of a roped climbing party goes before waiting for the "second" to come up.

Rappel: ... controlled sliding down a doubled rope... to get from an up type place to a down type place.

Recce: ... reconnoitre.

Grade System: .. .the climber's grading of difficulty of a particular move, eg. 1-5 is free climbing (ie. without the aid of pitons etc.) and 5. 9 is the hardest possible move short of artificial aid. Artificial aid climbing is sub-classified into A. 1, A. 2, etc. , but for most purposes is referred to as Class 6.

The following is the generally accepted breakdown of categories 1-5:

Class 1 - Hiking Class 2 - Scrambling involving the use of hands, (seat, knees... etc.) Class 3 - Rope up for beginners. Class 4 - Experienced climbers would rope up Class 5 - Pitons for protection

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HISTORICAL ARTICLES

V.O.C. GENESIS Art Morton

The current V O C cabin-building activity at Whistler Mountain brings to mind, for the pre-Cambrian members at least, some of the happy memories of a similar occasion. This was the construction of the first V O C cabin forty years ago.

It appears that some of the early log books (pre-journal, that is) have been lost or so securely hidden away that few, if any, of the current members know anything of the origin of the club. Here, then, are some random thoughts and facts to let the second generation crew and their cohorts know what their parents and predecessors did to start the club rolling and to set the pattern of the present day standard of club spirit, joie de vivre, etc. (No, let's leave out the moral angle!).

In 1917 a group of 15-10 people (even then there were some girls, bless them) got to­gether to form a Walking and Picnic Club. The common interest at the time was to spend part of each weekend walking to various beaches and enjoying the great outdoors(and picnics). After a couple of years this group ran out of beaches, and decided to start exploring the mountains in the vast hinterland of the North Shore. In those days it took about half a day to travel by street car, ferry, and on foot to get to the base of the mountains.

Anyway, a cabin was rented on Hollyburn Mountain near the Lodge and the group used this as its headquarters for five or six years. It was in this area that the Club was formal­ized as the Varsity Outdoor Club. Most of the climbing was restricted to Mts. Hollyburn, Black, and Strachan with an occasional foray to Grouse Mt.

In 1929 this intrepid band, now about 30 strong, decided that the club should have a cabin of its own and after scouting around found a spot on Grouse Mt. was most suitable. It was only an hour and a half s hike up from the end of the Lonsdale Street car line and about twenty minutes away from the Chalet. This cabin site was located in the treed area that is presently bounded by the "Cut" on the west, the Skyline trail on the east and south, and the last stretch of road leading to the chalet on the north. (Got it?)

Growing pains caused the Club to add an addition to the old log cabin in 1929. We'had close to fifty members by that time and it was thought only proper to segregate sexes by pro­viding separate sleeping quarters for the girls and boys! ?

During this period many of the traditions of the Club were established. Work hikes were a must because of all the construction. The first New Year's Eve party ended in a pillow fight that fizzled out in a trail of feathers all the way to the top of Dam Mountain. The first guitar player discovered that by singing and playing right after dinner he got out of helping with the dishes. Finally, of all things, the Powers-That-Be (the Dean of Women) stated that, in order for the Club to remain in existence, the members had to decide whether they wanted women or liquor in the Club. One or the other but not both. Ho, hum.

The great Dam Downhill Race came into being at this time too. Theoretically, it was a race from the peak of Dam Mt. down to the cabin. It was, however, more of an endurance test than a race. The one who could make the course in the least number of straight line runs, pick himself out of "bathtubs" or off trees quickest and get back to the cabin all in one piece most certainly deserved an extra piece of cake at dinner. Later, when Mr. Ker, an old m e m ­ber donated a trophy to encourage better technique, we learned that a skier was supposed to and could, in fact, execute turns. Up until that time it was straight up and straight down!

At this time, too, the great classic climbs were established- Mts. Grouse, Dam, Crown, The Camel, and even Seymour. Mt. Baker was breached in 1930 with a party of sixteen climbing from Kuishan Cabin to the Col before turning back on account of a whiteout. A big expedition via steamer to Britannia Mine was undertaken in 1932. The party made its way from there to the Sawtooth Range and climbed Sky Pilot and Mt. Shear in one day.

The first Inter-Collegiate Ski Meet was held in 1934 on Grouse with U. B. C. hosting the University of Washington and the College of Puget Sound. Boy, did we tigers skunk them 1

After exams in the spring of 1934, Mr. Ker sponsored the first extended ski trip for eight ardent skiers. W e travelled to Baker for a week and thence to the Windermere Valley where

44

we took Mt. Nelson and other assorted peaks apart in our enthusiastic way.

Around 1944, the owner of the parcel of land on which the cabin was "squatting" discover­ed this fact and started charging rent. Imagine! Anyway, this was enough incentive, along with the fact that the mountain was now literally crawling with people and cabins, to cause the then active group to look elsewhere for a site which could be more permanent and could accom­modate the ever increasing number of new members. Thus the Seymour Cabin in 1946.

So again the wheel has turned full circle. Another cabin is being built and the old pioneer spirt of VOC is being revived. There is no doubt that this sort of activity, together with climbs and ski trips, gives the active members a sense of belonging and of participating in a very real way. It's nice for us old timers to watch the second generation (and there are lots of them now) getting as much enjoyment out of it all as we did way back when. It's good to realize that the present active group is just as friendly, just as zany, and just as good-to-be-with as the originators of VOC. The Club is in good hands. Good luck to you!

S O M E NOTES O N T H E HISTORICAL B A C K G R O U N D O F T H E A L T A L A K E - FITZSIMMONS C R E E K A R E A

Neal M. Carter

When I was asked if I would contribute to this year's Journal some notes on the above sub­ject, I consented with the stipulation I might be allowed to limit them to the alpine aspects of the area. A complete historical background should commence with what is known of early journeys by native Indians to and fro across the height of land at Alta Lake (2090') between their objectives Squamish or Pemberton. Next should come an account of explorations of the area by early trappers and prospectors, then of the activities resulting from early homestead-ing, logging, mining, and the surveys requisite for these. And in 1913 came the P. G. E. Rail­way. Such background history is available in various books which however have little to re­late about the alpine aspects surrounding Alta Lake and its vicinity.

It would be difficult to trace records of what ridges and peaks in this area were explored in the course of early hunting, trapping and prospecting, or through curiosity of the early white settlers as to what lay beyond the skylines seen from their main valley in which Alpha, Nita, Alta, and Green Lakes lie. Alpine features beyond those skylines were pretty sketchy on maps, and few had names.

Shortly after the turn of the century a prospector, Bob Fitzsimmons, settled in the Alta Lake area. Some time around 1912 after cutting a trail up Fitzsimmons Creek he built a log cabin in Singing Pass for proving his mining claims in the vicinity of the first mountain to the east, officially named Fissile Mtn. only recently. During his prospecting he may have climbed this and other summits in the range now named after him, which extends from Whist­ler Mtn. to Cheakamus Mtn., and may have examined some other summits in the vicinity; if so, I have not been able to trace or identify his climbing achievements.

Hence it may be considered that alpine activity for its own sake began in this area when Alex Philip and his wife, Myrtle, in 1918 opened Rainbow Lodge beside the railway at the northwest corner of Alta Lake after settling in the vicinity some six years earlier. They or­ganized climbs of Whistler Mtn. (7118') and Mt. Sproatt (6010') for groups of guests at the Lodge, and of Rainbow Mtn. (7570') for the more ambitious guests. The two latter mountains are west of the railway. In the summer of 1923 I was on a waterpower survey of the main valley from Brandywine Falls to the outlet of Green Lake, also of Cheakamus Lake to which we cut the first packhorse trail. While at Cheakamus Lake I was given a day to climb up to­wards Singing Pass to sketch the true shape of the lake; by hurrying I was able to indulge my­self in a hike along the ridge to the top of Whistler, where I saw records of numerous parties who had climbed it from Alta Lake.

During the three months I was on that survey I had no other opportunity for climbing though our work took us quite a distance up the valley beyond the head of Cheakamus Lake and some distance up Fitzsimmons and Wedge Creeks. But from the top of Whistler and elsewhere I got a much closer view of interest-appearing peaks I had longingly viewed from the top of Castle Towers, the Black Tusk and Helm Peak in 1920. While our survey camp was near Rainbow Lodge Alex Philip told m e he thought Wedge Mtn. (then already named) was higher than Mt. Garibaldi, and he was pretty certain it was unclimbed. Garibaldi Park at that time did not extend further north than Cheakamus Lake and the upper Cheakamus River flowing into it, and Mt. Garibaldi was the highest peak in the Park.

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From Alta Lake I wrote to Don and Phyl Munday of the A C C telling them of the mountain­eering possibilities around Alta Lake, so in that summer of 1923 they came up and made the first recorded ascent of and named Overlord Mtn. (8598', highest in the now Fitzsimmons Range) and Blackcomb Peak (7995', westernmost of the now Spearhead Range). Survey work prevented m y accompanying them, but they were enthusiastic about what they climbed and other peaks they saw.

So when our survey was over by Labour Day 1923, I persuaded Charles Townsend, a U B C '25 classmate, to come with m e on a two-week trip to climb Wedge and some of the other peaks. W e left Parkhurst Station on Green Lake September 9th and established camp at tim­berline on the ridge just west of Wedge, of which we made the first recorded ascent on Sept. 10th. It was a cloudless day, during which we were startled by a total eclipse of the sun while crossing what we then dubbed "Eclipse Glacier"; but we were even more startled by m y aner­oid reading 9600' at the top of Wedge (the later official height 9484' still makes it the highest peak in the present Garibaldi Park). Exciting views included high peaks with many glaciers in the two ranges (Spearhead and Fitzsimmons) to the south, but a sharp peak two miles east led us to spend the next day traversing around the south face of Wedge to camp at timberline below this peak, which we cairned on September 12th, naming it Mt. James Turner (8913') after a deceased pioneer Methodist pastor in southern B. C. The 13th was spent in returning to our Wedge Mtn.camp, near which as we were leaving to return to Alta Lake on the 14th we found an old empty liquor bottle indicating someone had been at least as far as timberline on this ridge leading to Wedge Mtn.

After spending a night at Rainbow Lodge and reprovisioning, on the 15th we went up the Fitzsimmons Creek trail to camp in Fitzsimmons' apparently abandoned cabin in Singing Pass, from which on the 16th we made the second recorded ascent of Overlord and the first of Whirl­wind Peak (7972') which we so named from the very evident effects of a "twister" on the trees near the cabin. On the 17th (still in cloudless weather) we climbed Whistler. On the 18th (mostly in cloud) we groped our way past Whirlwind Peak to two peaks we had previously seen beyond it, and made the first recorded ascent of the nearer one, which because of its steep rotten rock and the foul weather we called Diavolo Peak (8400'). A brief glimpse of the nearby further peak of about the same height did not tempt us. The following day we awoke to snow falling at the cabin so left for home.

I recommended to the B C M C it might well hold its 1924 summer camp in Singing Pass, and found myself placed in charge of it. Eighteen persons including eight ladies and a cook participated. W e spent August llth-19th climbing from our tent camp near the cabin. Refuse Pinnacle, Overlord Mtn. , Fissile Peak, Whirlwind Peak, Whistler Mtn. , and Diavolo Peak were reclimbed. On the 15th a group made the first recorded ascent of the peak beyond Dia­volo, naming it Angelo Peak (8400') and on the 17th we climbed and named Fitzsimmons Peak (8500'), apparently another first ascent. Plans to cairn the most easterly peak in the range (Cheakamus Mtn. , 8490') were thwarted by bad weather on our last available climbing day.

During these 1923-24 climbs I took readings and photos for making a map of the northern alpine area to join a map of the Garibaldi Lake region I had prepared after climbs there in 1920 and 1922, and recommended the northern alpine area including at least Wedge and Turner be added to Garibaldi Park.

In 1928 a Provincial phototopographic survey of Garibaldi Park included this northern area almost to Mt. Currie above Pemberton, and it became part of the Park. In this added area the surveyors occupied some 25 triangulation or photo stations on peaks and high ridges from above Cheakamus Lake north to a high ridge 2 miles north of Mt. James Turner, involving among other climbs the first recorded ascents of what were named by the Park Board Mt. Tremor (8840', highest in the Spearhead Range), also Mts. Trorey (8075') and Pattison(8147') in that range. Mt. Weart (9300', second highest peak in the Park) received its name, and I was informed that an 8300' peak 2-1/2 miles north of Turner had been officially named after myself though it was not climbed. It has since been climbed, but I haven't (yet) done so. The old-established local name Whistler Mtn. officially became London Mtn. from the London mining claims on it, but after representations by a committee from V O C and other clubs the name Whistler Mtn. was officially restored a few months ago. This Government survey in 1928 resulted in hundreds of excellent 4-1/2 by 6 inch photos and a large detailed map of the extended Garibaldi Park. Many of the photos are scenically interesting, some having been taken from high points probably not visited since. Copies can be purchased from the Geo­graphic Division, B.C. Department of Lands and Forests, Victoria.

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Following the 1928 survey and availability of a detailed map, private parties made first recorded ascents of various additional peaks north of Cheakamus Lake, including Mt. Weart in 1932, Mt. Sir Richard (8700') on skis in 1937, Mt. Neal in 1949, and Cheakamus Mtn. in 1950, as well as repeated climbs of others, exploration of new routes and minor summits.

What might be termed the final exploratory phase of the Fitzsimmons Creek area mount­ains took place in 1964 when your V O C expedition made its ski "tour de force" so well re­counted in your 1964 Journal, thus tidying up the remaining first ascents and nomenclature in the Spearhead and Fitzsimmons Ranges, and preparing the way for the undoubtedly many ski and summer climbing excursions that will be made as a result of the new developments taking place on the slopes of Whistler Mtn.

Two days before writing these notes I took m y wife up your excellent new trail to Cheaka­mus Lake to show her the old survey campsite which I had not seen since 1923. In several places I noticed your trail took advantage of the gaps I helped crosscut saw out of fallen logs when our survey made the first packhorse trail to the lake. In the evening we visited the Philips in their attractive home above the west shore of Alta Lake to renew our acquaintance after 42 years. Alex, now 84 years old, vividly recounted some of their early experiences, a few of which are woven into the three books he wrote.

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SPECIAL PROJECTS

CONSERVATION C O M M I T T E E Sue Knibbs Barb Mioduzewska

Under the leadership of Dan Phelps the Conservation Committee continued to grow and ex­pand over the last year (see pg. 61 VOCJ VET). The main concerns were, quite naturally, Gari­baldi Park and the forthcoming Parks Act. It was decided to present a brief reflecting the opinions and proposals of VOC to Lands and Forest Minister Kiernan. Much time and effort was spent studying the varied proposals forwarded for new Parks Legislation so that, by the end of November, a VOC endorsed brief was presented to the government. The end result which caused a lot of controversy throughout the club seemed to create little impact on Kier­nan. However he did speak to the Alpine Club on this topic.

In January, under the new leadership of Ian Stirling, the committee began working on a highly successful series of talks headed "Provincial Parks-Preservation or Exploitation?" Dr. Danner started the ball rolling in February with a hard hitting speech, to be followed by an excellent panel discussion including Dr. Ian McTaggart-Cowan, Mr. Buckland, a Forester from the Institute of Technology, Mr. Campbell of Western Mines and Dr. Pierce of the Econ­omics Department. A capacity crowd enjoyed this endeavor to the full.

Throughout the year the committee was instrumental in beginning the groundwork for a Federation of Outdoor Clubs in the Lower Mainland. Though co-operation was on a low level, several combined trips were held throughout the year. Another achievement, perhaps the result of the brief to the government, was a new, more enlightened Parks Act. The threat of a micro-wave tower on top of the Black Tusk quickly evaporated under-cover of a large uproar led by VOC.

This following year should prove to be as promising as last year. Co-Chairmen Gordie Soules and Alan Coombes are spearheading research into the development and consequent usage of Garibaldi Park, as well as other vital areas.

A series of combined club trips culminated this highly successful year. Barb Mioduzew­ska led twenty-five enthusiastic VOC'ers, CYH'ers, and ACC'ers into Frosty Peak and Light­ning Lakes in the Manning Park area. Besides climbing, the group spent time looking into the proposed commercial development of Lightning Lakes. Under Gordie Soules, seven V O C and C Y H types canoed their way down Buttle Lake after visiting Western Mines' controversial op­eration at the south end. A comprehensive report was made on the deplorable condition of the lake. Besides work hikes on the new Cheakamus Lake Trail, various committee members travelled up Brohm Ridge, Cathedral Lakes, and Liumption Peak and Ridge.

Hats off to Dan, Ian, Gordie, Alan and the many others who kept this newer addition to the club alive and interesting-if not controversial and thinking.

FITZSIMMONS - S P E A R H E A D N O M E N C L A T U R E Bert Port

Thanks to the relentless energy of Karl Ricker, most of the names proposed'for the then unnamed geographical features encountered on the 1964 V O C Fitzsimmons - Horseshoe Ex­pedition (see map and article Journal VH) and those noted below have been accepted by the Can­adian Permanent Committee on Geographical Names. As was to be expected some were re­jected and others were added. It is gratifying to note that the government has agreed to change the name of London Mountain to Whistler Mountain which, as everybody knows, has always been its name anyway!

Most names, on the Fitzsimmons - Spearhead map (VOC J. , Vol VH) were accepted. A few had to be changed; other nomenclature additions not given on the map are listed below.

Official changes:

Rainbow Creek changed to Horstman Creek Rainbow Glacier changed to Horstman Glacier Mt. Decker changed to Decker Mountain « Pattison Glacier changed to Tremor Glacier

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Tremor Glacier changed to Shudder Glacier Shudder Peak changed to Shudder Mountain Miner Lakes changed to Adit Lakes Millar Creek (above Nita Lake) changed to Whistler Creek

Official Additions:

Saucer Lake—near snout of Spearhead Glacier Saucer Creek—flows East to Wedge Creek Phalanx Glacier—north of The Phalanx Billygoat Lakes—headwaters of Billygoat Creek Detour Creek—flows south-east into Cheakamus River Benvolio Glacier—West of Mount Benvolio Refuse Creek—flows South into Cheakamus River Adit Creek—flows East into Russet Creek Picolo, Harmony, Flute, Oboe Creeks—flow North into Fitzsimmons Creek Whistler Glacier—East of Whistler Mountain

Also approved but not on the above mentioned sketch are:

The Lecture Cutters (peaks)—North of Mt. Sir Richard Ubyssey Glacier—West of Mt. Sir Richard Veeocee Mountain—West of Mt. Sir Richard

M O U N T A I N ACCESS C O M M I T T E E Bert Port

Of the many wonders detailed by early adventurers on the Pacific Northwest Coast perhaps the greatest awe was reserved for the rain forest, combining as it does the hardiness of mountain trees and the succulence of tropical vegetation.

For weekend hikers wanting to visit alpine areas this factor makes exploratory sallies discouragingly difficult. A great deal of effort is required to establish any sort of route and even greater effort to maintain a trail in usable condition.

In recent years sporadic efforts have been made by individuals and clubs to reduce the effort involved in "bushwhacking" by clearing and marking some trails. However, since no overall plan existed the work, when it progressed, progressed unevenly.

It had long been felt that communication among the Vancouver clubs was desirable as it could provide a stimulus for trail clearing and that such a communication could avoid duplica­tion of effort. Since the work of trail building would fall on volunteer labour drawn from the Club's general membership wasted effort could not be allowed. Accordingly, at the invitation of the British Columbia Mountaineering Club in October 1963 two representatives from each of the Alpine Club of Canada, Canadian Youth Hostels, Varsity Outdoor Club, Northshore Hikers, British Columbia Forest Service, British Columbia Coast Guide and of course the British Col­umbia Mountaineering Club met to consider the possibility of establishing such communication within a committee and to determine what aims such a committee might justifiably devise. At this initial meeting the name "Mountain Access Committee" was decided upon and its aim was to be the promotion of access to alpine or mountainous areas through:

1. recording and maintaining in a central registry descriptions of mountain access routes.

2. co-ordinating the route finding and trail building of participating clubs.

The committee was to concern itself generally with the mountains bordering Howe Sound and the Fraser Valley as far east as Hope.

During the following monthly meetings decisions were reached on trail and route priorities, marking standards and marking materials. Trails were to be marked with four inch squares of tempered aluminum, placed so that two would always be visible, and with underbrush clear­ed to facilitate travel.

It soon became apparent that substantial economies could be effected by the bulk purchases

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of material. Consequently the Clubs alone deposited a total of $200 with the Committee for this purpose. Through the efforts of several individuals and firms cost was reduced even further. In the summer of 1964 the Club received their first materials (nails, aluminum and tape). Work could now begin on the thirty-six trails and routes given top priority by the Com­mittee.

It was apparent that a more ambitious programme would constitute a disproportionate financial burden to the small number of Clubs concerned. It was as a result of a limited pub­lic appeal and application to the Federal Physical Fitness and Sport Directorate, $400 was ob­tained in early 1965. From this sum the original Clubs were reimbursed. More materials were purchased and in the Fall of 1965 some hand tools were purchased.

In May 1965 a limited number of a "Preliminary Report" detailing a dozen new routes and trails was published by the office and distributed to the Clubs.

The Committee seems well established now as it enters its third year. Lines of commun­ication have been set up with the various Government Departments for assistance and advice. It is anticipated that a further $1100 will be forthcoming in the next two and one half years to upgrade some of the present routes and to start work on the numerous trails which will be re­quired in the future. In the spring of 1966 approximately one thousand copies of an expanded and revised Trail Guide are to be made available from the same source as the Preliminary Report.

A great deal remains to be done by this voluntary club labour group but with a growing population and a growing awareness of the value of recreation (even swinging an axe can be recreation) quick and easy access to alpine areas should be made available to everyone in the Lower Mainland.

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photo by Bill Tupper

THE WHISTLER CABIN We'll find that contact lens if we have to take this whole building down!! !

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