Violet EvergardenCosplay by Kat McGowan

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Reference Front:

Reference Back:

Reference Extras

Jacket – Materials and PatternsPatterns Used

McCalls Pattern

Custom Puffy Sleeve Pattern

Materials Used

Interfacing

Buttons

Buckle

Moldable Plastic

Gold Bias Tape

Jacket – Fabric Swatches

Crepe Suiting Fabric -Navy

Crepe Suiting Fabric –White

MicrosuedeFabric

Jacket – Patterns I modified a McCalls pattern by shortening it and created custom sleeves.

I chose suiting fabric because Violet is a professional and this fabric provides a clean uniform look to the seams.

I picked the crepe because the texture reminded me of a doll’s clothes.

Pattern pieces cut out

Jacket – Whole

I stitched the back and front pieces together except for the right shoulder.

Interfacing was ironed onto the collar and front pieces for a crisp look.

Seams were finished with a serger.

The biggest challenge was keeping Tiki off the fabric.

Finished seams with interfacing.

Jacket - Collars

Left: Final upper collar with top-stich.Right: Lower collar with button and top-stich.

Jacket - Belt

For the belt I cut out four long pieces of microsuedefabric.

After cutting the pieces out, I carefully ironed interfacing to stiffen the soft fabric and maintain a smooth rectangular shape.

Then I sewed the halves together to give an appearance of a thick leather belt.

Jacket - Belt

Above: There were two pieces of suede sewn together to look like a leather belt.

Left: Pinning the belt into position on the shoulder piece. Jacket lining and collar was sewn after this step.

Jacket - Belt

Front and back so far.

Jacket - BeltFor the back ring, I melted moldable plastic and shaped it to form the desired size. Then I painted it gold and sewed the belt pieces onto it.

Jacket – Belt

Jacket – Belt On the front, I installed a suspender buckle and a sew-on snap to the jacket.

I glued the other half of the snap to a gold button and used it to hold the suspender buckle in place.

Jacket - Poufy Sleeve

I drafted a custom pattern by tracing the sleeve piece from the original McCall's pattern. Then I drew horizontal lines across the pattern that were 2 inches apart from each other.

Next, I labeled each section as a number, cut them out, and re-taped them onto another piece of paper. I separated each piece about 1 ½ inches away from each other. Finally, I traced the pattern and cut it out. The result is on the next page.

Jacket – Poufy Sleeve

Pattern for the upper part of the sleeve.

Jacket – Poufy SleevesNext, I laid out sleeves and cut a diamond shape. Then I sewed the sleeves together gathering the extra fabric while pinning it to the rest of the jacket.

Above: Gathering and pinning.Right: Finished result after sewing and sergering

Jacket – Poufy SleevesI burned the raw edges of the diamond hole, in both the outer part and the lining.

Then I sewed on gold bias tape and sealed the jacket’s lining.

Above: Sewn on bias tape.Right: Tying a knot!

Jacket – Finishing TouchesI attempted to make poufy sleeves for the dress, but I wasn’t getting my desired look, so I created the illusion of under sleeves instead.

I did this by taking two pieces of the white fabric and cut them into a diamond shape.

Jacket – Finishing Toucheso I made small pleats on these pieces, finished the raw

edges with a serger and hand sewed them onto the backside of the sleeve.

Above: Pinned down sleeve. Middle: Hand sewn seams are practically invisible from the right side. Only the bias tape seams are showing.Right: Finished product.

Jacket – Finishing Touches After making sure all my collars were crisp and my seams were finished, I completed the jacket by sewing two gold buttons to each side of the lower collar.

Dress - Materials and Patterns

Pattern’s Used Simplicity Patterns

Online Flounce tutorial

Materials UsedBrown bias tape

White crepe suiting fabric

Brown satin

Dress – Fabric Swatches

White Crepe Suiting Fabric (Main)

Brown Satin (Lining)

Dress – Patterning My pattern process here is similar to the sleeves of my jacket. I chose a blouse pattern that had the shape of what I wanted and traced the front piece onto paper. Then I drew lines that were 1 ½ inches apart across where the front would be so that there will be eight total pleats.

Above: Original pattern.Right: Drawing out the lines.

Dress – Patterning I cut each line out of the pattern and arranged them on another sheet of paper so each piece would be a half inch away from each other. After they were carefully arranged and neatly lined up. I taped it down and traced the pattern.

Above: Laying out the pieces. Right: Finished pattern.

Dress – Patterning

For the skirt portion I cut out four large rectangles from the white crepe fabric and three rectangles of the same size of brown satin.

Left: All seams on the dress were finished with a serger.

Dress – Pleats For the blouse portion, I cut out my pattern onto the fold. Then I folded ½ inch pleats from where I determined on the pattern and sewed the pleats down with top stich.

Above: Those are sharp Kuro!Right: Pinned pleats.

Dress - PleatsI lined up a white square with the blouse front and pleated the square just like I did with the blouse. After making sure the pleats lined up as best as I could, I sewed the pleats.

Dress – Piecing Together

I sewed the blouse together and cut my final satin piece by lining the pleated white piece for the size. Then I sewed the all the squares together so the lining and right sides would be the same size.

I gathered and pinned the skirt to the blouse. (This took the most time) Once I was satisfied with the positioning, I sewed the blouse and skirt together.

Dress – Piecing Together

Left: Pleats on the outside. Right: Inside of the dress. Seams were finished through a serger.

Dress – Bias TapeI carefully pinned down the bias tape to the dress and sewed it on.

Above: Pinning the tape. Right: Sewing the tape.

Dress – Flounce For the flounce, I drew a circle where the radius was the same length as the dress. Then I adjusted the circle based on the patterns I found online.

Left: Completed pattern.Right: Folded pattern as a guide for later.

Dress - FlounceNext, I cut out the pattern pieces on the satin, crepe, and tulle. The tulle is for a fuller and poufy look.

I lined them up and sewed them together. The outer circle was stitched and surged on the wrong side. Then I flipped it inside out and stitched the inner circle from the right side.

Dress - FlounceUsing the guide from my pattern, I folded the flounce and hand sewed the folds into place on the back.

Finally, I added three sew-on snaps to the back of the dress and flounce.

Top Left: Sew-on snaps back the flounce detachable.Bottom Left: how the flounce attached to dress. Above: Folded flounce.

Dress – Final Results

Bustle - Materials

Patterns Used: American Duchess Historical Costumes.

Materials:Hoop skirt boning.

Satin (Was chosen to match the dress lining).

Bias tape

Ribbon

Bustle - Pattern

Following the Duchess’ guidelines, I drafted a pattern for the bustle.

I purposely made the bustle shorter and not as wide as most bustles because Violet’s skirt only needs a slight pouf in the back.

Bustle - ConstructionOnce the pattern was cut out and sewn up, I sewed pockets into where I wanted the boning to be and slid them in.

Lastly, I sewed bias tape to the sides for tie-ons.

Above: Pockets for the hoop boning. Left: Tie-ons to hold bustle in place.

Bustle – Completion

PetticoatI made a basic petticoat with three layers of tulle to go over my bustle and give more body to the dress.

Accessories – Pin & Pendant Backing

Both the pin for the Auto Memories Doll’s School and the backing to her pedant were carefully formed from gold clay.

Left: Pendant was engraved using a pin needle. Above: A pin representing Violet’s completion of Auto Memories Doll training.

Accessories - PendantThe pendant is Violet’s most precious possession, so I took great care with this piece.

I filled a pendant mold with UV resin and mixed resin coloring powder. Once it was dry, I glued it to the pendant backing.

Above: Casting the resin. Right: Finished product.

Accessories – Cravat I cut out a large rectangle and hemmed the edges. Then I marked where I wanted the holes to be and cut them out. The raw edges were finished by applying Liquid Stich.

Left: Cotton Fabric swatch.Middle: Drawing the circles.Right: Finishing the raw edges by painting Liquid Stich.

Prosthetic Hands – Patterns & Materials

Tutorial based from Kamui Cosplay.

Materials Work gloves – Purchased.

Craft Foam.

Silver Metallic Paint.

Mod Podge.

Prosthetic Hands - PatternI wore elastic gloves and drew the shapes directly on my hands. Then I cut out the pieces.

Prosthetic Hands – PiecingI cut the foam pieces and spray painted them. Then I assembled and shaped the pieces with a heat gun and glued them onto the work gloves.

Above: Pattern pieces. Right: Spray painted pieces.

Prosthetic Hands – Piecing

Above: Shaping each individual piece. Right: Gluing directly onto the glove.

Prosthetic Hands – Finishing Touches

Finally, I re-touched the glove with a new layer of paint and cleaned up the glue. Lastly, I sealed the paint with Mod Podge.

Parasol – Materials

Umbrella (Purchased)

Ribbon

Cotton (Blue and white)

White Cotton Blue Cotton Cotton for Ruffles

Parasol I made a long strip of white cotton and glued them onto the umbrella, gathering to create the pleats.

Above: Gluing on pleated fabric.Right: Completed work.

ParasolNext, I cut eight pieces of blue cotton and glued them onto the umbrella.

I made ruffles by making a long strip of blue fabric and sewed a long stich down the middle. To crunch the fabric into a ruffle, I carefully pulled to bobbin thread.

Above: The seams were finished with pinking shears.

ParasolOnce everything was secured, I glued bows that I made from ribbon onto the parasol.

Above: The bow ties were custom made by me. Right: This parasol is too pretty for words.

WigI used a tutorial on Arda wigs for guidance.

First, I used a straightening iron to shape “cat ears” at the top of the wig. I also used a comb to help with maintaining the shape.

Left: Original style of the wig. Above: shaped “Cat ears”

WigI made two braids for both sides. I twisted the larger braid into a bun and pinned it down with bobby pins, then wrapped the smaller braid around the bun.

I sprayed hair glue to set and smooth down the fly-aways as best as I could.

Left: Clips kept the hair separate for braidingMiddle: I crisscrossed sections, so wefts won’t showRight: Finished buns

Wig I trimmed the front sides and the bangs. The sides were trimmed to be slightly uneven using a razor comb.

The final touch was tying pretty red ribbons.

Purchased Items

Brown Gloves

Work Gloves (was modified)

Boots

Parasol (was modified)

Wig (Styled by me)

Thank You