VOG

UE PATTERN

SD

ECEM

BER 20

12

/JAN

UA

RY 2

01

3

DECEMBER 2012/JANUARY 2013

VOGUEPATTERNS.COM

S E W I N G T O D AY ’ S

THE ULTIMATE SEWING MAGAZINE

Free Pattern

OfferSEE PAGE 94 FOR DETAILS

’Tis a Stylish Season Packed With Stunning

New Looksfrom

Pamella RolandAnne Klein New York

Guy LarocheTom and Linda Platt

Kay Ungerand more

A KOOS CREATIONAdapting a Veteran’s Design To Fashion a Versatile, Home-Sewn Jacket

O’MASTInside the Craft of Neapolitan Bespoke Tailoring

PLUSShopping for Vintage Machines That Stand Up To Modern Models

Strategies for Looking Great in the Clothes You Make

SAMPLER SAMPLER SAMPLER SAMPLER

2

14 SOMETIMES A GREAT NOTION Ten tools to save time. by Linda Turner Griepentrog

18 LIVING COLOR A brief history of hue. by Daryl Brower

22 SEWING THAT FLATTERS Strategies for looking great in

the clothes you make.by Bridgette Raes

26 THE SWATCH TEST You are what you wear. by Bridgette Raes

30 TAILOR TALK An Interview with fi lmmaker Gianluca Migliarotti. by Daryl Brower

34 SEWING MACHINE MAINTENANCE

Tips for keeping your investment in top shape.by Kathryn Brenne with Larry Shackleton

38 MAKE YOUR OWN: Silk-front sweater

40 THE BUTTONHOLE FOOT Tips, tricks, and tactics for a multifaceted tool. by Kathryn Brenne

46 A KOOS CREATION Adapting a veteran’s original design to fashion a versatile jacket. by Kathryn Brenne

52 THE VINTAGE COLLECTION Reclaimed relics that stand up to modern models. by Peter Lappin

56 BEHIND THE SEAMS WITH CLAIRE SHAEFFER

Quilting a cardigan jacket.

60 NIGHT AND DAY Four adaptable looks for trousers and slim skirts.

CO

NT

ENT

SD

EC

EM

BE

R 2

012/

JAN

UA

RY

201

3 26

82

64

VOGUE PATTERNS 3

ON THE COVERPamella Roland’s cocoon coat, V1332. Ring: Olga Pietro. Hair and makeup by Joseph Boggess. Photographed by Brian Kraus.

64 DESIGNER NEWS A stylish season with stunning looks.

74 VINTAGE VOGUE Reclaim the glamour of Vogue Patterns of the past.

76 WINTER GLAM Elegant attire for the holidays and beyond.

82 SOME LIKE IT HOT! Uptown styles that are perfect

for mixing and matching.

IN EVERY ISSUE 4 EDITOR’S NOTE

6 LETTERS

8 WHAT ARE YOU SEWING?

10 MUST-HAVES

15 WEB WATCH

88 BODY MEASUREMENT CHARTS

90 GUIDE TO PATTERN AND FABRIC REQUIREMENTS

94 CROSSWORD

96 THREAD TALES

82

34

4038

74

4

The seeds of this magazine were first planted in 1899 when pattern maker Rosa Payne approached Josephine Redding, Vogue’s first editor, about publishing one free pattern a week in her magazine. Redding agreed. And those weekly patterns—hand cut on Payne’s dining room table—met with such overwhelming popularity that they eventually blossomed into an entire section, which thrived until 1920. At that point it branched off into its own publication, eventually becoming the magazine you are now reading. The story of Vogue Patterns, which began 113 years ago, has taken many turns since—the latest being our most recent changes in leadership. Growth can be a challenge: Rarely is it smooth, but it is almost always necessary. This is especially

true of a publication with as rich a history and as enduring a reputation as our own. With that in mind, just as a sewer begins a new project having learned from the previous ones, we build on our past and start fresh with this issue. The approach of the New Year couldn’t be a more auspicious time. As the incoming editor of Vogue Patterns I eagerly join my new colleagues and the gifted contributors you’ve trusted over the years, and excitedly anticipate cultivating our community of fashion-forward sewers and getting to know you, my newest circle of friends. So please read on: From Kathryn Brenne’s technique for adapting an original Koos van den Akker jacket design (page 46), to Daryl Brower’s interview with filmmaker Gianluca Migliarotti about O’mast, his documentary exploring the tradition of Neapolitan tailors (page 30), to thirteen-year-old Tara Higgins’s account of how she discovered her passion for sewing (page 96), these pages mark our first connection. Together we’ll go on to find the next project, perfect existing ones, and simply share the thrill of creating. I can’t wait to see what we’ll discover next. In the meantime, please keep in touch.

Suzanne Pettypiece, Editor

VOGUE PATTERNS

If you’d like to contribute ideas, techniques, or projects write to me at editor@voguepatterns.com or Vogue Patterns Magazine, 120 Broadway, 34th fl oor, New York, NY 10271.

ThewheRedpatthorothwomPti

btrue o

editor’s letter

THE SWATCH TEST

abrics are more than a reflection of tastes. We choose them as we choose our friends:

Which will comfort us, make us feel better about ourselves, show us a good time? We rely on

certain fibers to help us exude an attitude, to wrap themselves around our varied moods—so much so in fact that a well-balanced wardrobe just might be as important as a diverse social circle. Find yourself in classic, white cotton too often? Try a slightly more adventurous Liberty Tana Lawn floral. Gravitate toward comforting flannels? Add some sparkling lamé to your life. Our guide will not only help you find fabrics whose personality is a good match with yours, but will also help you sort out your trusted friends—those who are reliable, always making sure you look your best—from the alluring yet capricious ones you should avoid inviting out for dinner.

A classic, white cotton isn’t the biggest trendsetter on the planet, but who cares? Crisp and pressed she’s pulled together, dependable but—for everyone’s sake—best paired with a less starched companion. Don’t let a ponte knit fool you. A mix of rayon, polyester, and spandex, at first glance she may appear soft, gentle, and flexible, but her firm and stable side dominates. A force to be reckoned with, she gets the job done without a wrinkle—and if need be isn’t afraid to take you down with her four-inch heels.

Flannel’s an enticing mate—a warm and friendly homebody—the perfect antidote to the holiday daze. But be sure to balance your social circle with some duchess satin, or you may find yourself sleeping through the festivities.

Cute, peppy Liberty Tana Lawn floral cotton has a quirky edge. Take advantage of her social yet balanced nature, and seat her between flannel and crisp cotton at your dinner parties as a prim and polite conversation motivator.

Superfine merino wool jersey—soft, pliable, lightweight, and adaptable—never overheats or loses his temper and is always up for an outdoor adventure.

Sure, cashmere has expensive tastes and high standards, but she’s also quite practical and never excessive. Treat her well and she’ll be a friend for life.

Duchess satin may lure you with her substance and shine, her promise of fun and reckless nights out, but beware: Much like her flannel inverse, she’s best taken in low doses. And unlike cashmere, whose elegance offers versatility, satin will only join you for the most fabulous affairs.

Years ago burnout velvet was quite possibly the biggest burnout of them all—she followed the Grateful Dead, considered Stevie Nicks her muse, and wouldn’t stop talking about her time at Woodstock.

on the surface

fYou Are What You Wear by Bridget Raes

VOGUE PATTERNS 2627

interview

TAILOR TALK

s a native of Naples, Gianluca Migliarotti grew up surrounded by both the beauty of the city and the intricate tailoring tradition for which it’s famed. To celebrate both he created O’Mast, a film about the bespoke tailors of his city. The sixty-seven minute documentary, which was well received (reviews appeared in Esquire and the Huffington Post) despite its limited screening outside of large

metropolitan areas, is now available for purchase online at thearmourystore.com and thehangerproject.com for thirty-five dollars. Migliarotti recently spoke to us from Milan, where he lives, about his inspiration for and intent behind the film.

Vogue Patterns: Obviously those with a passion for creating their own clothing will find the film fascinating, but its appeal is much broader than that—you don’t need to understand the reasoning behind darts or the definition of an armscye to appreciate what’s shown on the screen. Gianluca Migliarotti: I was born and raised in Naples, so of course I am one of the biggest enthusiasts of bespoke tailoring there is, but I made the film for everybody—that’s why I tried to avoid the technicalities.

VP: What’s the meaning behind the film’s title?GM: O’mast means “master” in Neapolitan dialect. An o’mast is the man in charge of any craft. It’s a celebration of the figure.

VP: So this film is a celebration of the masters?GM: Yes, great respect for the craft and the craftsmen and a great passion for bespoke are two of the many inspirations for the film. The love for my hometown, Naples—beautiful and difficult, majestic and poor—is another. But also I wanted to clarify the meaning of bespoke to those who think that a brand-[name] made-to-measure [suit] is a tailor-made garment.

VP: You make quite a point of that in the film. GM: I like truth and I don’t like little sly lies for

commercial purposes. The big brands will say that they give bespoke service, but they really don’t. They can’t. I know what tailors have gone through in order to become masters at their craft, and I want to clarify and explain for people who don’t really know, what exactly this craft is, how beautiful it is, and how much knowledge is needed to achieve it. Anyone can make a suit, but to make a truly beautiful suit is a very different thing.

VP: So what is it exactly that sets bespoke a cut above—pardon the pun—made-to-measure clothing? GM: Bespoke is obviously superior! You choose the fabric and the style of the suit together with your tailor. Using your measurements, he will cut a suit just for you. The process is quite long and specific; it takes about three fittings. Made-to-measure is a wannabe bespoke. [Manufacturers] try to get the closest to bespoke quality, but based on a garment that is already made for specific sizes. Bespoke tailors don’t use sizes; they use measures. The suits themselves have a soul. Made-to-measure—no matter how good it looks—can’t possibly have that.

VP: You say in the film that in Naples, having a custom-made suit is something everyone appreciates. It’s not just a service for the wealthy. GM: Yes, there is a tradition of going to the tailor to have suits and shirts made. I had my first suit made when I was about nineteen, thanks to my father. He had his first bespoke coat at age thirteen! And from then on nothing else but bespoke. I still have the suit.

VP: I can tell you have a soft spot for Naples. In the film, it’s as much a star as the clothes. A beautiful shot

aFilmmaker and bespoke tailoring champion Gianluca Migliarotti waxes poetic on the lives of the suit masters of Naples and the inspiration behind his documentary O’Mast. by Daryl Brower

VOGUE PATTERNS 30 December 2012/January 2013 31

60

NIG

HT

AN

D D

AY: T

HE

TR

OU

SER

VOGUE PATTERNS

Blouse: V8772Earrings: Anne Koplik Designs

V8836

Fur: Adrienne LandauBelt: WCMBracelets: Isharya

Clutch: Clarita

Shoe: Jessica Simpson

61December 2012/January 2013

Coat: B5819 Hat: Eric Javits

Sunglasses: Ray Ban Earrings: Karine Sultan

Belt: WCMBag: Sondra Roberts

Bracelet: Karine SultanShoe: Restriced

V8868

SUBSCRIBE NOW