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Railfan Weekend, May 20-22, 2005, was the start of the Centennial Year for Cass Scenic Railroad Shay 5. On May 21, the star of the show sits at Spruce in between photo runbys. (Richard Sparks) Vol. 21(3) : Logging in the Pacific Northwest | Sawmill Explosion in 1896 | Timber Trails, Part Two

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Railfan Weekend, May 20-22, 2005, was the start of the Centennial Year for Cass Scenic Railroad Shay 5. OnMay 21, the star of the show sits at Spruce in between photo runbys. (Richard Sparks)

Vol. 21(3) : Logging in the Pacific Northwest | Sawmill Explosion in 1896 | Timber Trails, Part Two

The LOG TRAIN Issue 83

2 Mountain State Railroad & Logging Historical Assoc., Inc.

Mountain State Railroad & Logging HistoricalAssociation

PO Box 89 Cass WV 24927www.msrlha.org

Grady Smith, PresidentPerry Queener, Vice President

Robert Hoke, SecretaryWm. P. McNeel, Treasurer

The LOG TRAIN (ISSN 0743-281X) is published fourtimes a year by the MSR&LHA, a publicly-supported non-profit, 501(c)3, organization.

Copyright 2005. Contents may not be reprinted withoutpermission.

Manuscripts and photographs are welcome. Edited by Richard Sparks.

Third Class postage paid at Cass, WV

In USA, subscription with annual MSR&LHA membershipis $20.00. Foreign subscription rates available uponrequest.

The Front CoverIn West Virginia, 2005 was declared “The Year of theShay,” and Cass Scenic Railroad’s venerable workhorse,Shay 5 was designated by the legislature as the state’s“Official Steam Locomotive.” The occasion is the 100th

birthday of Shay 5. Mountain State Railroad & LoggingHistorical Association kicked off the 2005 season with aspecial charter trip and ceremony on May 20, which wasday one of a three-day Railfan Weekend. Making thismagazine’s usual log train cover graphic superfluous,Shay 5 creates a pretty picture of the real thing, sitting inthe sunshine at Spruce, with a train of loaded ex-MeadowRiver log cars and the 1880's-vintage former Elk RiverCoal & Lumber Co. bobber caboose.

Cass Scenic Railroad Shay No. 5, was built as shopnumber 1503 by the Lima Locomotive and MachineCompany of Lima, Ohio in November, 1905. Thelocomotive was ordered by the West Virginia SpruceLumber Company and shipped to their growing timberingoperation at Cass, West Virginia. Used initially forhauling logs from Spruce to Cass, the 80-ton Shay wasdisplaced from this “mainline” duty seven years later withthe arrival of 100-ton Shay 8. Then Spruce became itshome terminal as it typically ran between Spruce andvarious sites in the Cheat and Elk River drainages onsecondary and woods trackage, coming to Cass only forheavy overhauls. It was in a collision with a WesternMaryland Railway 2-8-0 rod locomotive at Spruce in1942 and subsequently repaired, but saw increasingly

limited service after 1953. It became inoperable in thewinter of 1958-59 when the cylinders cracked due tofreezing while the engine was parked at the mill for use asa supplementary mill boiler. Number 5 was sold for scrapwhen the Cass rail logging operations ceased in 1960, butit was kept intact and conveyed to the State in 1962.Restoration was completed by the Cass Scenic RailroadState Park in 1966 and it has been in active service sincethen.

Log Train, Purpose and ContentThe 4L (Loyal Legion of Logged-on Loggers)http://groups.yahoo.com/group/4L/ is an interestingresource, probably familiar to a number of readers. AnInternet discussion group, it is “dedicated to thedissemination of information regarding loggingprototypes and models.” In May, our periodical wasmentioned in a message on the 4L site which said“...originally [The Log Train] was really a historicalpublication concerned with the railroad logging industryin West Virginia. Unfortunately, due to somenon-publication related issues, the magazine is nowmostly current events, with a few articles on a randombasis of historical nature. In essence, the [MSR&LHA]organization has become the ‘Cass Scenic RR HistoricalAssociation’.”

The statement, reflecting on the first ten years (1982-1992) of the MSR&LHA, is essentially correct, but in avery narrow sense. Most active members of ourorganization would strongly disagree that the changessince that time are unfortunate. The organization hasbecome the recognized non-profit support group of theCass Scenic Railroad, and is greatly enhanced because ofthis. Our membership, the scope and impact of ourprojects, and the organization’s responsibilities haveincreased tremendously. We assume from the lack ofcomplaints and the steady membership increases andrenewals that we must be doing all right.

Having said this, I want to point out that theMSR&LHA’s basic editorial policy for The LOG TRAINhas not changed since 1982. The mission was then, andstill is, to publish the material submitted by themembership, as long as that material broadly relates torail logging in West Virginia. We publish what thereaders submit, therefore, the content of this magazinereflects, just as it did in the 1980's, the current interests ofits readers. But time does change things. For a few yearsin the 1980's the organization was fortunate to include anumber of individuals who were actively andaggressively researching West Virginia’s rail logginghistory for publication. What was different then? For the

The LOG TRAIN Issue 83

Post Office Box 89, Cass WV 2492 3

most part, they were influenced, inspired and assisted byhaving personal contacts with earlier generations, thosewho had actually experienced the rail logging era —resources now sadly unavailable. And, the members whogathered at Cass in the 1980's were ardent trainenthusiasts on a pilgrimage to the last operating remnantof steam rail logging in the east. Now, our members tendto be people who first came to Cass purely as tourists, toride an old train for fun. It’s a different world. None theless: Log Train articles of a “historic nature”? Thanks toour readers, they still happen. Check out this issue.

Richard Sparks

I have looked through the back issues of The Log Traintrying to locate a story of a train wreck at North Bend onthe North Fork of Cherry River in Greenbrier County. Ido not know the year; [it] would have been in the early1900's. This story was republished in the News Leader(gone now) in the 1970's I believe. I know this is a just achance but I thought I would e mail you just to see if anyone knew of the story.

I emailed you a couple years ago and asked about a videoof when the Cass Shay ran down at least as far as Seebertwith movie cameras on the engine. If this video everbecomes for sale I would be very interested.

Also I found an old news paper story [following] of a millengine explosion at Frankford, West Virginia in 1896.

Paul Greathouse11 Dyer Ave.

Richwood, WV 26261

WHEN EXPLOSION ROCKEDGREENBRIER COUNTY

From the News Leader, March 3, 1954

February 28th will mark the 58th anniversary of anaccident that rocked Greenbrier County, perhaps as noother in its history. The explosion of a sawmill boiler atFrankford killed seven people. The Valley Messenger,this paper's immediate predecessor, carried a completeand vivid story of the disaster, which we believe thereaders of today will find interesting enough to justifyrepublication in full. Relatives and descendants of thevictims of the explosion at the Overholt mill at Frankfordare no doubt numerous.

Time has eaten away portions of one paragraph in the oldnarrative. The missing words are left blank for the readersimagination to fill in. Otherwise, the story is verbatim,

even to the unusual compliment to another newspaper atthe end of the story.

TERRIBLE DISASTER Boiler Explosion Near FrankfordResults in the Death of Seven Men

One of those tremendous casualties by which a candleand a whole community is plunged into the deepestmourning, occured on last Friday morning, Feb. 28th at10 o'clock on the farm of Mr. Samuel Levesay, about amile south of Frankford, this county, and about 14 milesnorth of Ronceverte. It was the explosion of a sawmillboiler which killed five persons, mortally wounded two,seriously injured two and slightly hurt three others. Thesawmill was operated by W. H. Overholt, of Frankford,and was sawing first-class oak for burial cases at the timeof the accident. The exact cause of the explosion willprobably never be determined, as those who could haveknown it are dead.

List of the DeadSamuel Livesay, aged 39 married, leaves a wife and threechildren.Sam'l Hodge, Lovelia, Pocahontas county, aged 22,unmarried.Woodrow Ransbarger, aged 21, unmarried.Henry Dunbar, aged 21, unmarried.Harry Brown, aged 20 years, unmarried; looker-on.

Died Since the ExplosionClowney Kershner, aged 25, married, wife and one child.Died on Saturday morning.Walter McClintic, aged 19 years. Single. Died Saturdaynight.

WoundedJames Fleshman, aged 18 years, _______.Addison Johnson, aged 17 years, scalded.Kell Livesay and Waldo Ransbargar, slightly wounded.

After the AccidentDrs. Raymond and Sharp were on the ground in a fewminutes, and Dr. Sam Austin, of Lewisburg, was there inless than an hour and a half. Dr. Fleisher of FallingSpring also came promptly. Hundreds of people came in asurprisingly short time. But everybody seemed dazed bythe calamity, and hardly knew how to where to begin thework of assistance.

It was a sight to blanch the stoutest heart. Within a shortdistance lay the mangled bodies of five men, three of

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4 Mountain State Railroad & Logging Historical Assoc., Inc.

them dead, and most of them so blackened and disfiguredas to be hardly recognizable. The boiler was gone, andeven the heavy log skids upon which it rested had beenblown away, leaving the earth as bare as a floor. The shedwas a complete wreck, and on its ruins lay a section of theboiler. Pieces of the engine lay around in confusion. Theenormous flywheel, weighiing about 1,800 pounds, wasshattered into fragments and dotted the earth. It was ascene of desolation and death such as our section hadnever before witnessed. The work of removing the bodieswas begun as soon as possible, while the injured weregiven medical assistance as they lay up on the ground.

Finding The VictimsSamuel Hodges, the sawyer, was blown about 390 feet,and when found had nothing on him except a shoe and aneck-band of his shirt. His body was blown up the hillthrough the timber and struck the ground about 50 feet infront of a white oak tree; from there his body boundedand struck the tree, lapping around it, being found about 6feet beyond the tree, nearly every bone in his bodybroken.

Woodson Ransbarger, fireman, was blown about 100 feetup the hill in the same direction of the fire-box. He wasfound at the foot of an ash tree, around which his leg hadwrapped. His face and head were badly crushed. SamuelLivesay, the owner of the farm, had left the mill and wasgoing home. He was struck in the back, probably by thedome of the boiler. He lay about 50 feet from the wreck,and was still alive when his brother reached him. He diedin a minute or two.

Harry Brown was found about 100 feet from the mill. Hehad been blown over a pool of water and was lying at theroot of a tree. A piece of iron had entered his head aboutthe ear and the left side, passed down and came out at hisstomach. His breast was also crushed in. He was standingnear the end of the boiler. Henry Dunbar, tail sawyer, wasfound under the wreck of the mill shed. A piece of ironpassed through his head just above the ear.

Clowney Kershner, who was “snaking” logs, wasstanding near the end of the boiler. His leg and arm werecrushed and his hip smashed to a jelly. His leg and armwere amputated Friday night, and he died early Saturdaymorning. Walter McClintic was found in the saw-pit. Hisfoot was split from the heel to the ankle by being blownagainst the saw. Three ribs were broken and he wasspitting blod from internal injuries. A piece of iron hadpassed through his right arm just above the elbow. Hiscoat was torn off with the exception of one sleeve, his

shirts were split and he was scalded considerable aboutthe breast and other places. The shock paralyzed hisnervous system and he died on Saturday night at 8:30o'clock.

James Fleshman was thrown across the log which was onthe carrage, and was severely bruised on the hip and side.It is thought he will recover. Van Buren Fleshman, whowas riding along the road within less then a quarter of amile of the sawmill, on hearing the explosionimmediately hitched his horse and ran to the scene. Hewas the first person to reach the spot. He found his sonlying near the saw log and Waldo Ransbarger waspouring water on him. Had it not been for this boy'sprompt action Fleshman would have suffocated in therubbish.

Waldo Ransbarger, who was wheeling saw dust, had anarrow excape. He was passing behind a walnut tree,which saved his life. He was struck across the face by aflying timber but not badly hurt. Both eyes wereblackened. Ad Johnson was badly burned about the faceand breast and had one arm broken.

BurialsOn Sunday morning the funeral of Samuel Livesay tookplace. Services were held at the house by Rev. D. M.Layton. On Sunday afternoon the funeral services ofWoodson Ransbarger, Clowney Kershner, Henry Dunbarand Harry Brown were conducted by Rev. G. O. Homanassisted by Rev. D. M. Layton. The services were held inthe M. E. Church, South. All were buried in the villagecemetery. The body of Samuel Hodges was taken to hishome in Pocahontas County for burial.

Walter McClintic was buried on Monday evening at 3o'clock after services at the Presbyterian churgh by Rev.D. M. Layton assisted Rev. G. O. Homan. Walter wasconscious up to within a few minutes of his death, andwas able to give a clear account of the accident. Beforehis death he made a profession of faith in Christ.

A correspondent writes: “One of the saddest sights I everwitnessed was when their remains were carried into thechurch, followed by the sorrowing and heart-brokenrelatives and friends. The solemn and impressivespectacle was witnessed by hundreds of people from allparts of the county, who assembled there to show theirdeep sympathy for those in distress.

The boiler, which exploded with such dreadful resultswas of about 35 horse power. It was of the return tubular

The LOG TRAIN Issue 83

Post Office Box 89, Cass WV 2492 5

type, and had the engine bolted on top. It was brought tothis section by the Messrs. Brown Bros., of Ronceverte,who used it in their lumber business at Chase City, Va.For the past two years it had been run in PocahontasCounty by Chas. Callison. Last summer it was put in useat the bone mill in East Ronceverte. Afterward it wasbought by W. H. Overholt of Frankford, who had itremoved to the spot where it exploded. While here it wasa source of uneasiness to the citizens. We are informedupon good authority that the boiler was considereddangerous, and the impression among our local engineerswas that it would require much repair before it could beoperated with safety. The flues leaked considerably, andthat part of the front enclosing the steam space wasbulged out and had probably been burned. The enginewas in good repair. The outfit was about ten years old, weunderstand.

Cause of the ExplosionThe explosion of the boiler is attributed to one of twocauses: from a high pressure of steam or from low waterin the boiler, most probably the latter. In the first case theeffects would not have been so destructive. A leaky boilerexplodes with a dull report and with not much fractureexcept along the rotten seams. When from low waterthere is an additional force to the steam, a gas is formedin the steam space which gives a clear explosion with adouble force. This gas is exploded by the introduction ofcold water into an almost empty boiler. There is everyprobability that the fireman had turned on the injector amoment before the explosion took place. There wereeleven persons, nine of whom were employed about or inconnection with the mill and two were lookers-on. Of allthese, not one entirely escaped.

The mill was set in a hollow in a piece of woodland onSamuel Livesay's farm. The ground slopes upward onthree sides. When the disaster occurred the steam guageon the boiler registered 160 pounds. The safety valve wasset to pop off at 98 pounds. According to one report,Woodson Ransbarger had the firedoors open and wasthrowing in wood. Samuel Hodges, the sawyer, had justwalked around in front of the firebox when the boilerburst with a tremendous report and was shattered infragments. The front end of the firebox was thrown in anortherly direction a distance of 75 feet and was brokenand twisted. The taps on the bolts were stripped off. someof them taking the threads off the bolts. One section ofthe boiler was stripped off and thrown in a southerlydirection, taking the shed with it, and was found lying onthe ruins of the shed. The engine was blown into piecesand thrown across the ravine a distance of about 25 feet.

The sawmill escaped any serious hurt, the saw mandreland belt wheel being broken and perhaps some otherslight injuries.

Theories of AccidentSo many and conflicting theories of the explosion havebeen advanced that it is impossible to notice them all. Themill had been doing very satisfactory work. It wasimpossible to run the saw under less head of steam then125 pounds as indicated by the gauge. Even at 160pounds the work was slow. With everything in properorder 80 pounds of steam in a boiler of the size usedcould have driven the saw with ease. This implies thateither the engine did not take steam properly, the saw wasin bad shape, or the steam gauge was unreliable. Anothervery mysterious thing was the action of the safety valve.It was set to pop off at 98 pounds before leaving 160 lbs.It was a spring valve, without a lever and weight. When itdid act, the spring threw the valve so far back that it washard to replace it, and much steam was lost by the delay.We are told that Hodges was trying to fix a board over thevalve to control it at the time of the explosion. The mostreasonable theory is that of low water in the boiler and theturning on of the injector. Nine tenths of the boilerexplosions occur from this cause.

From the reports of a number of people we gather that__________ion of nearly eve_________tion that theb___________ sooner or later. Even the mill menthemselves feared it, and were expecting it from day today. When the event happened all within hearing of thereport said “It is the sawmill,” and rushed for that point.Samuel Livesay and his brother Kell who were there aslookers on grew alarmed, and had started to leave theground.

Late reports from Frankford state that Fleshman andJohnson are doing fairly well, and with careful attentonand good nursing may pull through.

The Cincinnati Post printed a very creditable report of theaccident in less than eight hours after it happened. ThePost outstrips all its competitors in news gathering.

The LOG TRAIN Issue 83

6 Mountain State Railroad & Logging Historical Assoc., Inc.

A dead ringer for former and present (both No. 3) Cass Scenic Railroad 80-tonShays, Lima S/N 3248 sits in pristine condition on display in Shelton, Washington.

Time Machines in Washington and OregonAlan Byer

Photos by the Author

Northwest Washington state is over 2000 miles from WestVirginia but, surprisingly enough, the two states have agreat deal in common when it comes to logging andlogging railroads. This was brought home to me in veryreal terms when my family and I visited my brother andhis family on an island just west of Seattle in the summerof 1997.

As we drove away from Seattle-Tacoma InternationalAirport, we were immediately struck by the number oftandem log trucks, both loaded and empty, blasting alongInterstate 5, the main north-south route. The loaded trucksusually held several large-diameter softwood logs, whilethe empty trucks hauled their trailers suspended on specialracks behind their cabs. Many other trucks were loadedwith manufactured wood products of all kinds. Eventhough millions ofboard feet oftimber and woodproducts wereobviously beingmoved byrubber-tiredvehicles, we wouldlearn that thelogging railroad isnot extinct in thePacific Northwest.

My brother'shouse, nearWinslow onBainbridge Islandacross PugetSound fromSeattle, is situatedin a cathedral-likegrove of largeDouglas Fir andWestern Hemlock trees. Even though these trees aresecond-growth timber, they are very large by any standardof comparison. A huge stump in front of the house nextdoor bears witness to the awesome forest that must havegreeted the first homesteaders on the island. My brotherpointed out notches that had been hacked into the stumpwhen the tree was felled many years ago. He explainedthat the lumberjacks had wedged boards into these notches

so that they would have secure footing [at some heightabove the ground] when they were felling the tree withcrosscut saws. Just down the road, we visited a site thathad been clear-cut recently. Even in the Seattle suburbs,timber continues to be one of the cornerstones of theeconomy of the Pacific Northwest.

After spending several days in and around Seattle, wecrossed from Bainbridge Island to the Olympic Peninsula,which separates the Puget Sound area from the PacificOcean. As we drove through Port Angeles, an importantlog- and lumber-exporting port on the north side of thepeninsula, we passed what appeared to be a displayedShay locomotive. When we stopped to investigate, thefirst thing we noticed was that the locomotive wasremarkably complete and in good repair. No graffiti, no

broken cabwindows, nomissing hardware.This locomotivewas obviously beingtreated with careand respect. Wewould later findthat, almost withoutexception, displayedsteam locomotives(and there aremany) in the PacificNorthwest arecomplete andwell-maintained.

We examined thethree-trucklocomotive, andfound thatWillamette Iron andSteel of Portland,

Oregon had constructed it in 1924 as their serial number29.

In 1922, after repairing Lima Shays for a number ofyears, Willamette had decided that they could build abetter geared locomotive, one more suited to the uniqueconditions found in the Pacific Northwest. The company

The LOG TRAIN Issue 83

Post Office Box 89, Cass WV 2492 7

Seattle Power & Light 1928 Baldwin 2-6-2 on display in Newhalem, Washington.

The author thought of BC&G when he found this classic railbus moldering alongthe Skagit River, near Sedro Wooley, in Washington State. (Alan Byer)

constructed only 34 locomotives, and they lost money onevery locomotive they sold. However, Willamette’s entryinto the market forced the other geared locomotivemanufacturers, principally Lima and Heisler, to designand produce their own new and improved locomotives.Arguably, the Pacific Coast Shay and Heisler West CoastSpecial locomotives thatresulted represented theapex of geared locomotivedevelopment.

Though none of theselocomotives ever workedfor West Virginia loggingoperations, several Shaysand one Heisler that weresimilar to the westernmodels did serve in theMountain State. WesternMaryland Shay Number 6,now at Cass; WildernessLumber Company and,later, Manns CreekRailway Number 5; andMeadow River LumberNumber 5, which laterworked for Twin SeamsMining in Alabama beforebeing scrapped in 1963,possessed many of the

features of the Pacific Coast Shay.Middle Fork Railroad Heisler number 7,which recently returned to WestVirginia, is essentially a West CoastSpecial Heisler. Of course, Cass ShayNumber 2 (Lima S/N 3320, 1928), inservice at Cass since 1972, is a genuinePacific Coast Shay (built as awood-burner, then converted to oil,finally converted at Cass to burn coal),is the only true Pacific Coast model toserve in the east.

Even though another Willamette gearedlocomotive was rumored to be in storagejust outside Port Angeles (WillametteS/N 34, owned by Jim Gertz), we didn'thave time to look for it. Instead, wedrove on to the mill town of Forks, ourhome for the next few days. As wedrove into town, the first thing I noticedwas a Pacific Coast Shay (Lima S/N

3348, 1930), virtually identical to Cass Shay Number 2,displayed behind a chain-link fence next to a park.Though the locomotive was complete and bore noevidence of vandalism, it was in little better than derelictcondition. The salt air and persistent rain of the westernOlympic Peninsula, which is one of the wettest locations

The LOG TRAIN Issue 83

8 Mountain State Railroad & Logging Historical Assoc., Inc.

Simpson Lumber Company at Shelton, Washington operates a number of EMDswitchers on a 30-mile railway.

in the continental United States, had taken a toll on bothwood and steel.

Even though a number of mills have closed in the pastdecade, forcing hundreds of mill workers and loggers toleave the area to find work elsewhere, the timber industryis still king in Forks. Spotted Owl is rumored to be anentree on the menu of one of the restaurants on MainStreet, and vast clear-cut areas surround the town. Justoutside Forks, the Timberman's Museum includes severalpieces of logging equipment in various stages of disrepair.Even though the railroad tracks to town have been pulledup, railroad logging is remembered in murals andphotographic displays in store windows and on bulletinboards. Just down the road, at Sappho Junction, aconvenience store sign bears a very good likeness of atwo-truck Climax pulling a string of loaded skeleton logcars.

Perhaps the highlight of our visit to the Olympic Peninsulawas an afternoon spent in the Hoh Rain Forest, twentymiles southwest of Forks. Some of the largest trees everseen on this continent (perhaps on the planet) still stand inthe Hoh, including the largest recorded specimens ofseveral important west coast timber species.

After several days, we departed Forks and headed towardthe Cascade Mountains, east of Seattle. After we crossedback over to the eastern side of the Puget Sound by way ofWhitby Island, we passed the sites of several abandoned

mills in and near the town of SedroWooley. In the middle of town, a 4-6-0tender locomotive (Baldwin S/N 39058,constructed in 1913), a log car, and alogging caboose, all well maintained,were displayed behind a fence in a smallpark. Just down the road, two immensesteam donkeys were undergoingcosmetic restoration at a former mill site.

A few miles farther up the Skagit River,we passed a familiar shape by the side ofthe road, and I turned the car around anddrove back to take a look. There in theweeds rested the body of what appearedto be a slightly-larger version of theBuffalo Creek and Gauley rail bus “B”,J. G. Bradley’s personal conveyancewhen he traveled to Swandale andWiden. Apparently, the owner was usingit to store building materials.

At dusk, as we passed through the town of Newhalem inthe shadow of the North Cascades, we noticed alocomotive by the side of the road. We stopped toinvestigate, and found a beautifully maintained 2-6-2(Baldwin S/N 60440, constructed in 1928), letteredSeattle Power and Light. According to the historicalmarker, this nicely proportioned locomotive hauledbuilding supplies to the site of the Seattle Power andLight Diablo hydroelectric dam, just up the road fromNewhalem. My first reaction was that it appeared to beoperable. Further investigation revealed that it had beenrestored to operating condition in 1977 for service on aplanned tourist operation, the Skagit Valley Railroad.However, the plans did not reach fruition, and the railswere removed and sold for scrap, leaving the locomotivestranded on a short display track. The passenger cars forthe planned railroad, along with a small Plymouth diesel,are isolated on a yard spur in the town of Concrete, westof Newhalem.

As we continued east, we passed through the spectacularNorth Cascades National Park and then descended intothe near-desert apple-growing country east of themountains. In just one day's relaxed driving, we hadpassed through one of the most productivetimber-growing areas in the country.

Two days later, we drove back across the North Cascadesby way of Stevens Pass, just south of our earlier routethrough the mountains. This road parallels the busy

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Post Office Box 89, Cass WV 2492 9

Corvallis Oregon’s Hull-Oakes mill is the last steam-powered big commercial sawmill inthe U.S.

BNSF (former Great Northern) Stevens Pass route to theSeattle area, and we passed a number of trains growlingtoward the summit.

We stopped at the trailhead for the Iron Goat Trail, a fewmiles west of Stevens Pass, for lunch. This rails-to-trailsroute follows the old Great Northern mainline, which wasabandoned in 1929 in favor of a more favorable alignmentthrough the mountains. As we hiked the roadbed, wepassed crumbling snowsheds, a collapsing tunnel, andspectacular cuts and rock fills. Well-written historicalmarkers were placed at strategic points all along the trail.Even though the trail is in a very remote area, we saw noevidence of vandalism or theft. Indeed, all along the trailwe could see rusting tools, lanterns, and other artifacts, allwhere they had been left when the line was abandonednearly 70 years earlier.

After lunch, we continued to drive west through themountains toward Puget Sound. Eventually, we stoppedfor dinner at a restaurant just east of Skykomish,Washington, at a point where the old Great Northernmainline crosses Route 2 on a trestle. Next to therestaurant rested an old wooden caboose, without trucksbut resplendent in a fresh coat of red paint. On both sides,the old hack was decorated with beautifully painted GreatNorthern “mountain goat” heralds. Gone, but certainlynot forgotten.

We arrived back at Bainbridge Island late that evening.

After spending another day inand around the city, we droveabout an hour south to the busymill town of Shelton,Washington, the home of the lasttimber-hauling railroad in NorthAmerica. Simpson TimberCompany operates seven EMDswitchers (two equipped withdistinctive dynamic-brakingcowls atop their hoods, muchlike West Virginia Northernnumber 52) and a large fleet oflog cars over some 30 miles oftrack. The tracks run from thehuge Simpson mill in Sheltoninto privately held andGovernment woodlands justsouth of Olympic National Park.

Simpson is very securityconscious and does not permit

visitors on their property. However, much of the railoperations in and around the mill can be observed from acity street (Railroad Street) that runs along the fence onone side of the complex. While my wife supervised ourson and daughter as they played in a large logging-themeplayground across the road, I watched and photographedthe distinctive red-liveried diesels as they went abouttheir business.

On this afternoon, two diesels were working the mill andyard tracks. One was moving empty finished-lumberbulkhead flats from the holding yard to the mill andloaded cars from the mill to the interchange tracks. Theother was shunting long strings of loaded log cars from aholding yard into the mill storage yard. There, a Wagnerlog loader, looking very much like an immense yellowbeetle, was unloading the cars, one car per trip. The logloader carried the logs in its curved jaws to extensivepiles, where they remained until another loadertransferred them to the mill for processing. A system ofstrategically located sprinklers kept the logs wet and,from time to time, a large tank truck moved among thepiles, spraying water from several nozzles to keep thedust down.

After watching the activity around the mill for about anhour, I walked over to downtown Shelton, finding athree-truck Shay (Lima S/N 3248, constructed in 1924),virtually identical to former (1970-1993) Cass ScenicRailroad No.3 (Lima S/N 3233, 1923), and present CSRR

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10 Mountain State Railroad & Logging Historical Assoc., Inc.

A log truck is unloaded into the pond at the Hull-Oakes mill.

No.3 (Lima S/N 3142, 1920), displayed along with awooden center-sill log car and a wooden side-doorcaboose. The local chamber of commerce had atourist-information office set up in the caboose, and theelderly gentleman manning the office was a formerSimpson employee. He told me how, as a boy, he hadhelped load supplies for crews in the woods into the sidedoor of that very caboose.

We returned to Bainbridge Island for the night and then,early the next morning, we crossed to Seattle on the ferryand then headed south on Interstate 5, bound for Corvallis,Oregon, 70 miles south of Portland. Several days earlier, Ihad called the office of Hull-Oakes Timber Company, inDawson, Oregon, southwest of Corvallis, to arrange a tourof their facility, the last steam-powered commercialsawmill on the North American continent.

We arrived at our motel and checked in, and then wedrove through the Oregon Coastal Range foothills to theHull-Oakes mill. I stopped by the office, but was told bythe secretary that the workday would be ending in lessthan an hour. Could we return early the next morning? Iwalked back to the car but, just as I was getting in, a veryaffable gentleman walked over and asked if we were therefor a tour. When we answered in the affirmative, he askedus to follow him.

I learned that our guide was Tom Cogswell, who is incharge of the Hull-Oakes saw-filing shop. He first led usthrough a ground-level door and down a flight of stairsinto the lair of the immense steam engine that powersmost of the mill's machinery. With very little vibrationand a soft “snicking” sound, the engine was turning alarge flywheel. A wide belt connected the flywheel to ashaft, which ran across the concrete floor to other wheelsthat were, in turn, connected by belts to the 9-footbandsaw and other machinery upstairs in the mill. Eachtime the saw bit into a log, the steam engine exhaustsslowed and changed to a loud “chuffing” sound.Our guide led us by the whirling flywheel and up acatwalk to a point just below a pair of smaller steamengines that powered the cable that propelled the logcarriage. Tom pointed out two steam whistles mounted ona manifold below those engines, and explained that theywere the mill signal whistles. He went on to explain thatdifferent combinations of whistle blasts are used tocommunicate different messages (for example, three blastsare used to summon the millwright).

Our guide led us back outside, and then up a flight ofstairs to the saw-filing shop. There, he produced earplugs

for all four of us and showed us how to put them in ourears. He then led us through a set of sliding doors andinto the operating mill. The noise was a deafeningmixture of sounds; the only sound that I could identify atfirst was the band saw cutting through a four-footdiameter Douglas fir log. Tom first led my wife anddaughter, and then my son and me, to a vantage point justto the right of the sawyer. About a yard to our right, hugelogs rested on a slightly inclined ramp; just in front of us,the carriage carried logs through the band saw and thenback; and just to our left, the sawyer worked his leversand communicated with the setter, on the carriage, withhand signals. On the other side of the sawyer, the bandsaw was a metallic blur. I was immediately impressedwith how effortlessly the saw seemed to cut through thelogs. Chips and sawdust flew by, and the air was filledwith the sweet smell of pitch. I thought of an afternoonover 40 years ago spent in another steam-powered mill,the Ely-Thomas Lumber Company in Fenwick, NicholasCounty, West Virginia.

After my son and I had been standing next to the sawyer

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Mt. Ranier Scenic Railroad 1929 ALCO Minaret locomotive at Elbe, Washington.

for a few minutes, the boiler-housewhistle blew, signaling the end of theworkday. We retraced our steps throughthe saw-filer's shop and then back outinto the afternoon sun. A loaded tandemlog truck was just pulling up to thescaler's shack next to the millpond.Would we like to see how logs areunloaded?

After the log-scaler completed hisinventory of the load, the driver pulledthe truck forward to the unloading areaand then climbed into the seat of a smallcrane mounted behind the cab. He firedup the crane and, using a claw mountedon the end of the arm, lifted the logs oneat a time and dropped them into thepond.

Another truck pulled up to the scaler'sshack just as the first truck pulled away from the offload.Could you use the A-frame and cable-winch to unloadthese logs? No problem. In a scene reminiscent of the oldMeadow River Lumber Company millpond offload, theHull-Oakes employees rigged the A-frame cable aroundthe load and then began to tighten the cable using thewinch. At first, nothing seemed to be happening, but TomCogswell warned: "It'll all be over pretty quickly." Sureenough, with a loud groan, a rumble, and an immensesplash, the entire load suddenly cascaded into the pond.

After the second truck pulled away, Tom Cogswell askedone of the pond-workers to show us how the pond boatworked. That young man obligingly climbed onto thedeck of the little boat and fired up the engine. With agreat churning and burbling, the boat herded the new logstogether.

Tom Cogswell then led us back past the now-stilled steamengines to the boiler room on the other side of the mill.There, the fireman was banking the fire and filling theboilers with water for the evening. He showed us thewater sight-glass and the chutes that carried the sawdustfuel to the firebox beneath the floor.

Our guide then led us back around to the front of the mill,where some of Hull-Oakes's specialty, long,large-cross-section Douglas Fir timbers, were stacked.Tom suggested that I could sit on one of the timbers whilehe took my photograph, and I took him up on his offer.

Our guide then suggested that we return the followingmorning for a complete mill tour, and I told him at leastone of us would be there, bright and early.

The next morning, I pulled into the shaded parking lotnext to the Hull-Oakes office just as the mill whistle blewto start the workday. Tom Cogswell met me at the office,and then proceeded to show me the entire operation, fromthe millpond to the planing shed and then on to the repairand blacksmith shops, patiently answering my questionsalong the way. Finally, after a comprehensive tour thattook up more than 2 hours, I shook hands with Tom andreturned to the mill office. There, I chatted for a fewminutes with Donald Oakes and Todd Nystrom, RalphHull's grandson, and then signed the guest register andthanked them for their hospitality. Reluctantly, and withmy Hull-Oakes Timber Company hat and a copy of thevideo "Steam Sawmill" in hand, I returned to my car forthe drive back to Corvallis.

The next morning found us back in Washington, climbinga steep trail that led to glacier-fed waterfalls in theshadow of Mt. Rainier. After my Hull-Oakes TimberCompany tour, my family and I had driven north and theneast to Longmire Lodge, just below Mt. Rainier'ssnow-capped peak. We hiked back to the lodge, and thenpacked the car and headed down the mountain. Afterleaving the park, we drove a short distance to Elbe,Washington, home of the Mount Rainier Scenic Railroad.

That tourist-hauling railroad owns and operates a truly

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impressive stable of geared and rod logging locomotives,and is probably the only place on earth where you can seeShay, Heisler, and Climax locomotives operating at thesame time. Included in that stable is the first successfulthree-truck Heisler (Heisler S/N 1252, 1912), which wasbuilt originally for Blue Jay Lumber Company, nearBeckley, West Virginia. After a career that spanned some80 years and five states, that locomotive is now a staticdisplay near the depot in Elbe.

The motive power for our train was oil-burning "Minaret"saddle-tank Mikado Number 17 (ALCO S/N 68057,1929). We soon learned that the Mount Rainier Scenicroute is not nearly as interesting as the steep grades andswitchbacks traversed by the Cass Scenic Railroad trains.Though the burly little 2-8-2 barely worked up a sweat formost of the trip, we were treated to slipping drivers andshotgun stack-talk on a steep S-curve just before the endof the run at Mineral, Washington. After a short layoverin a fenced-in grassy area next to a small lake, we climbedaboard for the downhill run back to Elbe.

When we detrained at the depot, my wife retired to the carwith our daughter for a nap while my son and I watchedNumber 17 make up the consist for a dinner train that

would run later that evening. After passing us a time ortwo, the engineer stopped the locomotive and asked if wewould like to climb up for a ride in the cab. We certainlydid. I soon learned that the engineer, Randy Marquis, wasa Virginia native who had worked for the Cass ScenicRailroad before heading west. Mr. Marquis went on totell me how he had worked at a number of jobs, includinggreen-chain lumber stacker for an Oregon sawmill, beforefinding a home on the Mount Rainier Scenic. By the timemy son and I thanked Randy and climbed down to theground, the sun was almost gone.

Two days later we could see Mount Rainier looming inthe distance as our flight back to the east coast lifted offfrom Seattle-Tacoma International Airport. We wouldreturn to the Pacific Northwest five years later and, onthat trip, we would experience logging, logging railroads,and another steam-powered sawmill on Vancouver Islandin Canada. Just a few weeks ago, we spent another weekin and around Seattle and, this time, I was treated to atour of the Mount Rainier Scenic Railroad shop inMineral, Washington. However, those stories will haveto wait for another time.

Hannah Gaskill’s

Timber TrailsPart Two

What was it like during the logging era in West Virginia,without central heat, plumbing, automobiles, electricity andthe like? By today’s standards, life was much harder, but,what did they think then? While one can gain insight by re-enacting, one factor prevents getting a true sense of theirperceptions: you are well aware of what is missing.

In some ways the writing of Hannah Yarnall RichardsonGaskill bridges the gap. An educated young woman, raisedin Philadelphia society, she left “modern” city life to makeher home in the sawmill towns of early 20th CenturyAppalachia. She wrote about her experiences as a strangerlooking in. Her stories were collected and a few copiesprinted for her family. We are indebted to Katy Miller, whoobtained permission from Mr. Elliott Richardson 3 , to userd

portions of Hannah’s writings in The Log Train. The firstexcerpt was in Issue 82. The following is the secondexcerpt; more are planned for future issues.

The Cabin on the CreekSue, West Virginia (2)

Ned went over the mountain one day, riding a workhorse whichhe was going to trade for another one. He expected to be back

before dark. It was in the fall and toward evening it began torain. I had a good hot supper ready and kept looking out of thewindow but Ned did not come. It got later and later and still hedid not come. I kept thinking, "Now this time something hasreally happened." If I had known just where he went I wouldhave saddled my horse and gone to look for him but I did notknow which direction to go and then I could not leave thechildren all alone either.

I put the children to bed and then sat down to think-or rather totry not to think. There was a knock at the door. My heart wasthumping as I opened it. Three men, each with a rifle, stood in asemi-circle outside. It was one of the few times in my life that Iwas really frightened. The men asked for Ned. I told them hewas not home. Then one of them told their errand. They had adeer a little piece up the road that they wanted to sell. I said wedidn't want a deer, shut the door, collapsed into a chair andcried, my feelings of relief and renewed fear for Nedcommingling.

After a while I went to bed but not to sleep. About six o'clockin the morning Ned came in. He was wet and shaking with thecold but safe and sound. He had taken a shortcut which was

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new to him across the mountain. Darkness came on and therain. His horse, which seemed to be off the trail, suddenlystopped and would not go on. He got off and struck somematches. There, not two feet in front of him was a high cliff.Then he decided he had better spend the night where he was.He looked around for something dry to start a fire with. Therewas nothing. He took his handkerchief out of his pocket andwith that managed to get a feeble fire going. There he stayeduntil it grew light enough for him to see where he was going. IfNed had been on one of our riding horses, this would not havehappened. They would have known the way home.

Ned did his banking at Lewisburg about twentyfive miles away.He and I started over there one beautiful fall day. Our horsesand ourselves were both in high spirits. We raced. I was aheadmost of the time as my horse, Janice, was the faster of the two.Ned, who was riding the dun horse, Clipper, caught up with meonce, grabbed me around the waist and lifted me right out of thesaddle. I squealed with excitement and let go of the reins. Assoon as Ned pulled in his horse, Janice stopped too.

We passed a group of Gypsies camped by the roadway. One ofthe men shouted, "What will you take for the dun?" Nedshouted back, "Won't sell him." The Gypsies leered at me. NearWhite Sulphur Springs we rode past a country estate that wasowned by an Englishman. The mansion was on high ground ina grove of fine oak trees; beyond the oaks was a meadow inwhich sheep were grazing. It was a beautiful place. Ned and Ithought we would like to have one just like it. We told eachother that we would some day.

The horses were racing again. As I swept ahead 1 heard a sharpexclamation from Ned and looking around saw him get off hishorse with a look of pain on his face. I galloped back, thinkingof Indians and a silent arrow, which was preposterous, ofcourse. Ned was rubbing his leg and said as I came up, "Janicekicked at me as she went past and if I had been a little nearershe would have broken my leg. I am going to punish her goodfor it." She had kicked at him so swiftly as she galloped I hadnot felt the jolt. Ned cut a branch from a nearby tree and startedbeating the mare as hard as he could. I begged him to stop buthe was too angry. Finally he hit her over the head and one eyerolled up and showed the white. He was frightened thenbecause he thought he had blinded her. He threw away thebranch and looked at her carefully. Fortunately the eye was notinjured.

The next day I had a muddy horse, a muddy skirt and a muddysaddle to clean up. I took care of Janice myself most of the timeand took great pride in keeping her bay coat shining. I tookspecial pains with her white hind foot. When the roads were notmuddy she was easy to keep clean as she seldom lay down inthe stable. Ned's horse, Clipper, always lay down at night muchto his chagrin. I kept my saddle, a McClellan, in good shape,too, washing it carefully with harness soap and oiling it. Mylong riding skirt was the hardest and the most uninterestingthing of all to clean up. I used to brush it until my hands were

blistered. In spite of the work it made for me I liked to ride inthe rain, to feel it against my face and to listen to the squish,squish of the horse's hoofs in the mud. I had an old felt hat witha red band that I wore in the rain. The first time it got wet thecolor came off the band and ran down through the hatpin holes,streaking my face with red.

There was a lovely Southern lady at Lewisburg. She was awidow from Tidewater, Virginia. Her father had been aConfederate officer. She kept a boardinghouse where Nedstayed when he was in Lewisburg. She had open fireplaces inall the bedrooms. Early every morning in the wintertime acolored boy came in and built up the fires for the favoriteguests. I stayed there overnight once. I thought it was luxuriousto have my fire made in the morning. I often had to get out of awarm bed and make it myself at home. Ned and I took turnsdoing it.

One summer when Jim went home for a vacation he asked Nedto go with him. He lived in a thickly settled farming countrywhere there were lots of young people. They worked hard in thedaytime but in the evenings they hitched up their horses andbuggies and went riding or to each other's houses where theyplayed games, ate watermelons and had a good time generally.Jim said, that Ned could go as a single man and he would gethim a girl and a horse and buggy. I entered into the fun of it.Didn't I go to Philadelphia with the children every year andleave Ned behind hard at work? Now it was his turn. So Nedand Jim went off on their trip.

I did not hear from Ned until he came back. He had had a greattime. Everyone had given a party in his honor and he had livedon the fat of the land. He told me that the girl he had takenaround was really very nice and sensible. He had told her atonce that he was a married man but they kept the secret tothemselves and none of the others knew it. He had promised tosend her a rattlesnake skin belt. He and I looked over the skinswe had, picked out the best one and sent it away to be madeinto a belt. When it came back it was a beauty; I wishedsomeone had been giving it to me.

While living at Sue I learned to do without many things. I couldnot buy bread there nor any breakfast cereal but oatmeal, nocitrus fruits and only the commonest of vegetables, raw orcanned. I baked bread quite often. When I was too busy doingother things or didn't feel like baking we ate soda crackers.Sometimes I rode to Alvin for a loaf. Every month I sent anorder to a store in Philadelphia for some of the nicer groceries.Early one evening in late summer I had hurriedly unpacked abox that had arrived that day and piled the contents on the floorwhen Jim came in and said he had discovered a spring of coldwater up the mountain behind the house. As the water in thewell was low at that time and did not taste very good, we eachpicked up a bucket and started for the spring. When we returnedit was dark. The children and I went into the living room and Ilit the lamp. As I turned to go out again, there near the door wasa large copperhead snake. The upper part of him was straight up

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against the door jam and his tongue was darting in and out. Thechildren and I must have passed within inches of him in thedark. He had evidently been attracted by the groceries on thefloor.

Jim grabbed a poker and killed the snake; then told us a story ofhow he was bitten by a copperhead one spring many yearsbefore and was sick a long time from the poison. Every springsince he felt badly, he said, for exactly the same length of time.

Janice was beautiful. Her coat was a rich bay; she had a blackmane and tail and one white hind foot. Her head was beautifullyshaped. She had a sweet expression in her eyes and a lovelydisposition. I loved her.

Clipper was a horse that was much admired. He was of BlueSlipper stock, we were told, dun in color with a brown stripethat ran from between his ears to the tip of his tail. He had aheavy mane and tail and an arched neck. He was never knownto do anything but singlefoot (rack) or lope, either under saddleor loose in the field. Ned had Clipper for about three yearswhen Clipper suddenly started to trot for no reason that wecould find out. The singlefoot and lope were pleasant gaits ifyou were out for a pleasure ride but for an all-day's businesstrip or a gait to get you there and back in a hurry I preferred atrot, a good, long, carriage-horse trot.

Both our horses led well. When Ned had to go to Philadelphiaon business, he and I would ride down to White SulphurSprings together and I would bring both horses back. He alwaystold me what train he would be back on so that I could meethim. One time he was unavoidably delayed. He could not sendme word so I rode down to meet him the day he told me to. Wearrived at the station just as the train was pulling in. I watchedthe passengers as they got off. Finally the last one had alighted,the train was moving on and Ned had not come. As that was theonly train that he could take I knew there was nothing to do butturn around and ride the sixteen miles up the creek without him.I changed horses and started off. Our high spirits had left us,and there was no racing on the way home.

The shoeing of our horses was very important. We found outthat if the shoes had short calks on them and steel plates on thetoes it was the most satisfactory arrangement. The blacksmithsnearby could not weld the steel plates to the iron shoes so thatthey would stay. Ned heard of a blacksmith at Falling Springs, asmall town on the Greenbrier River about twelve miles away,who was supposed to be very good. He tried him and found himsatisfactory. After that it was my duty to take our horses overthere to be shod. I loved that ride. I usually took a footpath thatran up Painter Lick Hollow to the top of the mountain.

From our house to the Greenbrier River I did not pass a singlehouse and seldom saw anyone on the road. The first part of theway after the top of the mountain was reached ran through aforest of hardwoods; then came what I called "The Forest ofBurnt Trees." As far as the eye could see in either direction the

trees had been killed by fire but were still standing. It was silentas there were no leaves rustling nor any small life there. Afterleaving the burnt forest the road went through cutover landscovered with huckleberry bushes, fire cherry and otherunderbrush and gradually sloped down to the Greenbrier River,which was crossed by a long diagonal ford.

One bright day I started out to take Janice to the blacksmith's.As I neared the top of the mountain the weather got colder andcolder. When I reached Falling Springs it was so cold that Iwent into a store and bought a heavy undershirt which I put onunder my other clothes. The blacksmith was busier than usualand I did not get started back as early as I expected. As Icrossed the mountain on the way home it began to snow but nothard. I urged Janice faster and faster as I wanted to get downthe mountain before dark. Near the foot of the mountain therewas a steep place on the trail at the bottom of which was therough rocky bed of a small creek. The only way for a horse toget down this bank was to sit on his haunches and slide. We didmanage to reach this place before it was entirely dark and gotdown it safely.

In the waning light I could not see the twigs and branches thatextended over the path and they struck me in the face and mademe wince. A hoot owl kept calling in the distance. Then I beganto think of panthers and wildcats. Janice stopped suddenly onceand stared into the bushes with lowered head. I urged her onquickly, my heart beating fast. Near the road I went too close toa thorn tree that I did not notice in the dark. The thorns stucktightly in my hair which I wore in a knot on the top of my head.I thought I would be dragged from the horse and left hangingthere. I thought of Absalom. However, I managed to freemyself. Janice broke into a gallop and we arrived home just asNed was starting out to look for me.

The winters were pretty cold while we were at Sue with a gooddeal of snow, but the spring came early, the snow and icebreaking up sometimes in the latter part of February. Oftenthere were floods. Then the lumber had to be piled at the milluntil it could be hauled out to the shipping point. During one ofthese floods it was imperative that Ned go to Philadelphia. Hecould not get down to White Sulphur on horseback, and the logtrain that came to Alvin was not running as there was a bridgeout somewhere. Someone told us of a way across the mountainthat avoided all streams and joined the road that led to thecovered bridge over the Greenbrier River at Renick on a branchof the C. & O. railroad. We started out on Janice and Clipper.The way was little more than a trail through the woods, hardlydistinguishable at times, but we arrived at the covered bridge intime for Ned to catch the train at Renick. The horses had neverbeen across the bridge and were frightened but we got them onit and then they were eager to get to the other side. I left Nedand riding Janice and leading Clipper headed for home. I wasnot sure that I could find my way back. In a thick patch ofwoods I discovered that one of Clipper's hind shoes was nearlyoff and bristling with nails. I knew that if it were not taken offat once his foot would be injured. I got off and tackled the shoe,

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trying to pull it off with my hands. I worked and worked with it.Every few minutes Clipper would pull his foot away. My facegot as red as a beet and I was very angry, but finally the shoecame off.

The horses were restive and as I started to mount Janice,Clipper swung around and stepped on my spur, pulling it offmy foot. This did not improved my ruffled temper. Finally wegot started. I could trust the horses to know the way home andat every place where I was uncertain I left it to them and wearrived home without any further adventures.

The next morning the thermometer was fifteen degrees belowzero when I got up. I built the fires, and leaving the childrenasleep, went over to the barn to feed the horses. They were allhungry and neighed and stamped at my approach. The air washazy with their breath. I gave each horse his ration of oats andthen went up to the loft to pitch down some hay. My fingers gotso cold before I was through with the pitchfork that they werestiff. I had to stick them down my neck to warm them, which Ifound was a very effective way to do so.

The intense cold did not last long. A few days later Nanny, oneof the mountain girls, came to invite Achsah and me to herhouse to dinner. We went on horseback, Achsah sitting astridebehind me. There was a big fire in the living room fireplace inthe little cabin. In one corner of the room was a bed with, ahandwoven counterpane on it and embroidered pillow cases, allspotlessly clean. White curtains were at the small windows andclean rag rugs on the floor.

Everything looked comfortable and cheery but the chairs. Theywere straight chairs of unpainted wood with splint bottoms.Nanny came in with her baby brother in her arms. She sat inone of the straight chairs and rocked back and forth making athump, thump every time the legs struck the floor. It was ajarring rock and I wondered how the baby could stand it.

Presently we were invited into the dining room. It was a smallroom with a large table in it. At one side of the table was a longbench and at the other side and the ends were chairs which werejust a little too low to be comfortable for the diners. The roomhad no heat in it but a little warmth came from the stove in thekitchen adjoining. The table was loaded with food, friedchicken, fried eggs, thick slices of bacon, boiled potatoes, soupbeans, cold tomatoes right out of the can, fried apples, heapingplates of hot biscuits with white, homemade butter and last, butnot least, seven different kinds of preserves and jellies. It nearlytook my breath away to see so much food. Everything wasnicely cooked and tasted good, but the room being cold and theplates icy, nothing kept hot very long except the biscuits, whichwere constantly being brought in from the kitchen and passedaround by Nanny or her mother. The men had come in and wereseated at the table with Achsah and me and the little boys of thefamily but the women waited on the table and did not sit down.This was the custom, I found out, even when there were novisitors. In many homes the smaller children stand instead of sit

at the table to eat.

The family were kind and hospitable, constantly urging us toeat more. When everyone was through there was still a greatdeal of food left on the table. This was covered up and wouldbe served cold at the next meal.

Many salesmen came to the store with their sample boxes.When one arrived at dinnertime he was some times asked to eatwith us as our guest. One of them when he was through tossed ahalf dollar on the table. This made me very angry. He was notasked again. Another time I was just clearing away the dinnerthings when I saw coming across the creek a large wagondrawn by two horses and piled high with boxes. Presently Nedcame to the house to tell me that a salesman who only cameonce a year had arrived. He said that he had always been givendinner at the house when our predecessors lived there andwould I get him and his man something to eat. I hated cooking,I very promptly and emphatically refused. So the poor fellowshad to eat crackers and cheese in the store. I think I must havebeen like the little girl with the curl in the middle of herforehead; at least I know that when I was bad I was horrid.

One salesman we liked very much. He sold plated silverware.He always spent the night with us and was very interesting andentertaining. We looked forward to his coming. Once when hecame he said he wanted to go over to the Greenbrier railroadthe next day, so Ned told him to send his carriage back to WhiteSulphur and he would take him over on horseback. When thetime came for him to go, he, Ned and I set out on the trip. Nedand I were riding our own horses and the salesman was on aworkhorse. The workhorse made a very good riding horse as hehad an easy gait.

It was wintertime but the weather was not very cold. We rodedown Little Creek to Alvin, turned there and rode downAnthony's Creek. As we got farther along, the country becamewilder and the forests darker. I thought the winter woodsfascinating. There were giant hemlocks and tangledrhododendron along Anthony's Creek which the road followedfor many miles. We came out of the woods at the coveredbridge over the Greenbrier River and left our guest at therailroad station at Renick. On the way home we drove theworkhorse in front of us, the stirrups crossed over the saddle sothey would be out of the way. We had a hard time making himgo as fast as we wanted to go. The poor fellow was not used toso speedy a gait. When we came to a ford on Anthony's Creek,instead of crossing it, he turned in midstream to the right andsoon fell into a deep hole where the banks were high and swamaround and around, unable to get out. Ned hastily changedhorses with me, as Janice was the more level-headed of the twohorses, and went after him. Janice had to swim, too, with Nedon her back and when they all got out on dry land again, theywere soaking wet. We ran the horses hard after that as Ned waspretty chilly in his wet clothes.

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Above: the winner of the 2005 Greenacre Photo Contest $100 award for the best picture taken at the 2004 Railfan Weekendwas Greg Croftchick’s moody composition of Shays 2 and 11 ready to leave the upper switchback. Below: there was a crowd,despite cool, damp weather, for the panoramic photo made during the May 20 Shay 5 Centennial celebration. The photographerpanned a digital camera (with excellent results) rather than using an antique, clockwork circuit camera.