wave action
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Wave Action. Section 13.1. What is a wave?. Wave – movement of energy through a body Wave size depends on: strength of wind length of time wind blows distance over which wind blows. What is a wave?. Wave molecules move in a circular motion - PowerPoint PPT PresentationTRANSCRIPT
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Wave Action
Section 13.1
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What is a wave?
• Wave – movement of energy
through a body
• Wave size depends on:strength of wind
length of time wind blows
distance over which wind blows
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What is a wave?• Wave molecules move
in a circular motion• Molecules at the
surface move in a bigger circle than those that are deeper
• At a certain depth, water is not affected by the wave
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What is a wave?
Crest – highest point
Trough – lowest point
Wavelength – distance from crest to crest
Wave height – distance from crest to trough
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Crest
Trough
Wavelength Wave height
Wave Depth ishalf the wavelength
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How waves change near shore
• Breakers – white capped waves that crash onto
the shore
Friction on the bottom slows the wave down.Wave height increases and wave length decreases.
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How waves change near shore
• Tsunamis – usually caused by an earthquake
beneath the ocean floor
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How waves affect the shore
• Longshore Drift – the movement of sand as water washes up and carries sand along the beach
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How waves affect the shore
• Rip current- a rush of water that flows rapidly back to sea through a narrow opening
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Waves and beach erosion
Barrier Beaches Sand Dunes Groins