waves caused by wind, tides, and earthquakes stormsswell surf (energy in) (energy out) waves move...
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Waves
Caused by wind, tides, and earthquakes
STORMS SWELL SURF(energy in) (energy out)
Waves move away from the sea that generated them; this energy can travel across an entire ocean basin like the Pacific Ocean
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Label As Much As You Can…
A
B
C D
E
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~~~Frequency and Period~~~
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Period and Frequency
Period measure the time from when the first crest hits until the next crest hits to same point.
Frequency measure the amount of waves passing a point in one second.
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Wave VelocityVelocity is the speed of the wave
velocity = distancetime
To do this, measure the wavelength, then divide by the period
Distance 2 meters Period 4 seconds
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© 2002 Brooks/Cole, a division of Thomson Learning, Inc.
The water particle moves in a vertical circle as the wave passes. The particle moves forward with the wave crest, and backward with the wave trough
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© 2002 Brooks/Cole, a division of Thomson Learning, Inc.
Water Molecule Movement
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Light Waves & Water
The visible light spectrum (ROYGBV) moves through water differently.
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Reflection, Refraction, or Diffraction?
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Reflection, Refraction, or
Diffraction
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Reflection, Refraction, or Diffraction
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Sound Waves and Water
Requires a medium to move through.
Sound is an important part of communication for migrating animals such as whales and communication for groups of animals such as pods of dolphins.
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BellworkComplete the Wave Actions Worksheet on the bottom of your notes from yesterday.
Copy the statements and then label with reflection, refraction,
and diffraction
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Water Waves
How wave characteristics determine ocean motion
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© 2002 Brooks/Cole, a division of Thomson Learning, Inc.
What factors affect wind wave development?
Wind strength - wind must be moving faster than the wave crests for energy transfer to continue
Wind duration - winds that blow for a short time will not generate large waves
Fetch - the uninterrupted distance over which the wind blows without changing direction
Factors Affecting Wind Wave Development
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Why do waves break?Water particles move in circular
patterns. When the depth of the water is less than 1/2 the wavelength, the wave hits bottom. The length rolls over to become the height and the wave breaks.
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© 2002 Brooks/Cole, a division of Thomson Learning, Inc.
What different ways can waves break against the shore?
Plunging waves break violently against the shore, leaving an air-filled tube, or channel, between the crest and foot of the wave. Plunging waves are formed when waves approach a shore over a steeply sloped bottom.
Spilling waves occur on gradually sloping ocean bottoms. The crest of a spilling wave slides down the face of the wave as it breaks on shore.
Wind Waves Approaching Shore
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Types of wavesSeiche waves are without a crest or trough.
They cause the rocking motion in bays and marinas.
Rogue waves are caused by the collision of two water masses with different densities. They appear suddenly and may capsize boats.
Tsunamis are the result of earthquakes on the ocean floor. They are very long, low invisible waves in the open ocean.
Tidal waves are a combination of storms and high spring tides. They are very different from a tsunami.
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Curl is the circular pattern of waves caused by wind blowing over the crest of a wave.
CURL
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Rogue wavesThis illustration shows an oil tanker encountering a rogue
wave. A deep trough, or “hole in the ocean” as it is called, drops 15m below the still water line. The bow of the vessel is than over taken by the large crest, that might be 15m above the still water line. The huge amount of water causes major damage to the ship and might even cause it to sink.
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TsunamisBy the time they reach the shore and
break, the wave height may be 100 ft. high and may travel at 400 miles/hour.
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Harnessing Wave EnergyWater entering the top of the wave generator causes
the turbine to spin which will produce electricity.Tidal Bores - Energy Harvest?
Lockeed Corp’s Dam-Atoll