wfm+men 2010 collection

CONTENTS

fashions from the runway

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Alexander McQueenIcebergBottega VenetaBrioniErmanno ScervinoBurberry ProrsumCanaliCarlo PignatelliCostume NationalC.P.CompanyD&GDirk BikkembergsDolce & GabbanaDSquared2Emporio ArmaniEnrico CoveriErmenegildo Zegna Etro

Frankie MorelloGianfranco FerreGiorgio ArmaniGucciGiuliano Fujiwara John RichmondTrussardiJohn VarvatosLes HommesMoncler Gamme BleuNeil BarrettPradaPringle Of ScotlandRoberto CavalliSalvatore FerragamoVersaceVivienne WestwoodZ Zegna

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Agnes BAnn DemeulemeesterAdam KimmelUte PloierBoris Bidjan SaberiGivenchyCerrutiComme Des GarconsDamir DomaDior HommeDries Van NotenDunhillGaspard YurkievichHenrik VibskovHermesIssey MiyakeJean Paul GaultierJohn Galliano

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Mode à Paris A/W 2010A/W 2010

Dolce & Gabbana

Junya WatanabeJuun JKris Van AsscheLanvinLouis VuittonMiharayasuhiroPaul SmithRaf SimonsRick OwensRomain KremerSmaltoTim HamiltonViktor and RolfYoran SerfatyYves Saint Laurent

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MilanF/W2010/11

Wallpaper-like prints took to the runway at Alexander McQueen with swirling motifs enveloping everything from suits and coats to boots and tote bags. Standouts included a grey sweater with raised skull and crossbones knitted across the front and a taupe overcoat with raglan sleeves and slash pockets. Fur-trimmed collars, ski gloves, intricately-patterned balaclavas and black masks completed the spectacle.

Alexander McQueen 今季讓天橋上充斥如牆紙一樣的各式印花圖案，無

論是西裝，大衣，靴或購物袋，全都帶有各式令人目眩的圖案。令人注

目的設計包括胸前織有骷髏頭骨及骨頭造型的灰色針織上衣，以及有連

肩套袖及狗牙口袋設計的深灰外套。整個設計與動物毛圍邊的領口、滑

雪手套、圖案複雜的帽連頸套及黑色面罩等配合得更衣無縫。

Alexander McQueen

IcebergA festive ambience pervaded Iceberg’s show as a casual collection was paraded to the jaunty sounds of Shantel’s Disko Partizani. From a palette dominated by grey, beige and khaki, Paolo Gerani created loose-fitting trousers and jackets. Colourful contrasts came into play with sweaters and long, fringed scarves. Meanwhile, the addition of suitcases, backpacks, fedoras and bowler hats reinforced the holiday feel.

Iceberg 今季以輕鬆休閒的系列，配合愉快的音樂背景，營造出無限節日氣氛。Paolo Gerani 以灰、杏及

卡其等顏色帶來一系列寬身褲及外套。在毛衣及長而帶流蘇的圍巾上則採用了強烈的顏色對比。此外更

配上行李箱、背包、休雅的軟呢帽及硬頂圓帽等以加強假日效果。

Bottega VenetaA 50s air prevailed at the Bottega Veneta show as models sporting rockabilly-styled quiffs paraded down the runway wearing dark T-shirts paired with stovepipe trousers and zippered windbreaker jackets. Accessories included leather gloves, belts, bulky scarves and the ubiquitous tote bags — either voluminous and carried by hand or smaller versions slung across the chest.

Bottega Veneta 的演出帶有50年代色彩，梳著貓王髮型的模特兒以深色上衣配襯長褲及拉鏈風褸。飾物

方面有皮手套、腰帶、粗圍巾及流行的購物袋，當中分別有手挽大袋及胸前小掛袋待多種款式。

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BrioniBrioni’s installation for Autumn/Winter 2010 was in keeping with the family-owned label’s reputation for traditionally-styled pieces. The collection included classic-cut jackets and coats paired with slim-fit pants in muted shades of grey, cardinal red, cerise, beige and camel. Boxy totes, classic lace-up leather shoes, caps and bowties completed the refined look.

Brioni在2010年秋冬系列中以傳統的設計保存了家族品牌的聲譽。系列中包括有經典的外套及大衣，配上

灰、深紅、棗紅及駱駝色的西褲。購物袋、傳統的縛帶皮鞋、鴨舌帽及蝴蝶領結令整個系列更顯細緻。

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Ermanno ScervinoErmanno Scervino paraded a cool collection where the focus was clearly on the jackets. Army fatigue patterns were used to create hip-length jackets as well as zippered parkas and longer, buttoned coats with contrasting linings that were teamed with black, fitted pants. Grey coats shone with lustre, while double-breasted versions captured attention with asymmetrical, textured collars.

Ermanno Scervino 今季的焦點顯然放在外套上。及臀的長身外套及拉鏈多用途外套上都有軍服的圖案，

而有對比襯裡的扣鈕大衣就用以配襯黑色貼身長褲。灰色大衣用上了閃亮光滑的物料，而對胸大衣就以

不對稱的領口設計令人眼前一亮。

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Dark, slim-fit trousers lent a striking contrast to Burberry’s trademark trenches in camel and beige. Veering away from the classic cuts, military-styled and brass-buttoned coats, fur-lined aviator jackets with double collars and long, structured woollen cardigans created an edgy feel. For a dramatic turn of colour, the collection was infused with splashes of olive green, mustard yellow and cornflower blue.

深色的貼身長褲與 Burberry 的招牌駱駝色及米色乾

濕褸形成了強烈的對比。捨棄了傳統的剪裁，軍裝及

銅鈕外套、以動物毛裝飾的雙領口外套及長身羊毛外

套營造出一種時尚品味。整個系列用上了橄欖綠色，

芥末黃及米黃色令人耳目一新。

Burberry Prorsum

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Canali’s show opened with classic suits in charcoal grey. Tight-fitting trousers were teamed with single or double-breasted jackets and elegant knee-length coats. For a more casual look, Canali added trench coats, zippered puffer jackets, cream cable knit cardigans and beige plaid coats. Ties, scarves, tote bags and leather gloves, in black and muted shades of grey, gave the collection a harmonious look.

Canali 的演出以炭灰色的經典西裝展開序幕。貼身西褲

配合單胸或對胸外套及高雅的及滕長褸，而在休閒服方

面，Canali 加入了乾濕褸、拉鏈鬆身外套、米色針織外

套及杏色外衣。再配上黑帶灰的領帶、圍巾、購物袋及

皮手套，感覺和諧。

Canali

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Canali

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Winter, with military overtones, was in full swing at the Carlo Pignatelli show as models strode through mist and snow in Russian fur hats, trailing, black, fur-lined coats, double-breasted jackets, caps and hooded scarves. More daring pieces included a black collared cardigan with a satin-bound closure, a transparent, green, thigh-length coat and a bomber jacket in metallic bronze with a fur collar.

Carlo Pignatelli 的冬裝帶有強烈軍裝色彩，

模特兒戴上俄羅斯毛帽，黑色動物毛大衣，

對胸外套、鴨舌帽及連帽圍巾穿越舞台上的

風雪。另一些焦點設計包括以色丁布點綴的

黑色有領針織外套，透明綠色長身大衣及金

銅色毛領短外套。

Carlo Pignatelli

Costume National paraded suits worn with high-necked skivvies, slim-fitting trousers and single-buttoned jackets. Ennio Capasa imbued the collection with an eclectic appeal, giving attention to details through the use of contrasting trims, off-centre closures and mottled patterns. Meanwhile, baggy trousers, fur-trimmed jackets and high-collared coats in army green and the addition of peaked caps, lent a military air to the show.

Costume National 展示西裝配高領汗衣、貼身西褲及單

鈕外套等設計。Ennio Capasa 透過利用各種細節，例

如對比的圍邊，側開的設計及斑點圖案等為整個系列帶

來多變的色彩。而鬆身褲、毛邊外套及軍綠色的高領大

衣配上鴨舌帽就增添了軍服色彩。

Costume National

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C.P. Company opened with black trousers, coats and hooded jackets, before taking a rustic turn, to create a casual outdoorsy look for Autumn/Winter 2010. Blue, beige and earthy shades of green and brown were used to create chunky knitwear, boxy hipster jackets and straight-legged trousers. To complete the country look, beanies made an appearance, while plaid shirts and scarves abounded.

C.P. Company 先以黑褲配大衣及連帽外套打響頭炮，然後再介紹一系列較為粗獷

休閒的2010秋冬系列。粗織毛衣利用了藍、杏、以及綠和棕等大地顏色，再配以

時款外套及直腳褲。整個系列配合冷帽、格子上衣及圍巾等襯托出鄉村的效果。

C.P. Company

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wfm+men 2010 collection

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