MILAN PARIS

2012-13Autumn/Winter

2012 No

. 13 EU

RO

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MILAN PARIS

2012-13Autumn/Winter

2012 No

. 13 EU

RO

!18.00 Italy only

!"#$%"#&'$()*"&+&www.wfm.hk

AUD $28.00 (INC. GST)

ITALY !18.00

USA $31.50

THB $620

WON $22,000

RP $204,000

HK $90.00

RMB ¥140.00

PHP $500.00

SGD S$30.00

TWD NT$420.00

viiEmporio Armani

Bernhard Willhelm Autumn | Winter 2012-13

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Fashion Editor

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Agnes ChungJessie Law

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Valentino Wan

Tom Tong

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Dsquared2Louis Vuitton

CONTENTS

fashions from the runway

Emporio Armani

Milano Moda Uomo A/W 2012-13 Mode a Paris A/W 2012-13

New York A/W 2012-13

Dolce & Gabbana

WFM+MEN Fashion from the Runway A/W 2012-13

Moncler Gamme Bleu

Moschino

Neil Barrett

Nicole Farhi

Ports1961

Prada

Pringle Of Scotland

Roberto Cavalli

Salvatore Ferragamo

Siviglia

Versace

Vivienne Westwood

Z Zegna

Corneliani

Costume National

Daniele Alessandrini

Diesel Black Gold

Missoni

Philipp Plein

Roccobaroocco

Trussardi

3.1 Phillip Lim

Agnes B

Ann Demeulemester

Bill Tornade

Christian Lacroix

Comme des Garcons

Damir Doma

Dior Homme

Dries Van Noten

Givenchy

HenrickVibskof

Hermes

Issey Miyake

Jean Paul Gaultier

John Galliano

Junn J

Junya Watanabe

Kenzo

Kris Van Assche

Lanvin

Louis Vuitton

Mihara Yasuhiro

Thierry Mugler

Paul Smith

Rick Owens

Rynshu

Thom Browne

80

82

84

86

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90

92

94

96

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106

108

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132

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28

30

32

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36

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40

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44

Bottega Veneta

Burberry Prorsum

Calvin Klein

Canali

Dirk Bikkembergs

Dolce & Gabbana

DSquared2

Emporio Armani

Enrico Coveri

Ermanno Scervino

Ermenegildo Zegna

Etro

Frankie Morello

Gazzarrini

Giorgio Armani

Gucci

Iceberg

Jil Sander

John Richmond

John Varvatos

Les Hommes

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48

50

52

54

56

58

60

62

64

66

68

70

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73

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76

77

78

79

Walter Van Beirendonck

Yohji Yamamoto

Acne

Adam Kimmel

Ami Alexandre Mattiussi

Backlash

Boris Bidjan Saberi

Cerruti

Julius

Qasimi Hommes

Wooyoungmi

Y Project Yohan Serfaty

Allexis Mabille

Kolor

John Lawrence Sullivan

Bernhard Willhelm

Victor & Rolf

Yves Saint Laurent

Songzio

Raf Simons

Maison Martin Margiela

DKNY Men

Rag & Bone

134

136

138

139

140

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144

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159

!

Bo

tteg

a V

en

eta

!

MIL

AN

A/W

20

12

-13

A dark aesthetic with a rebellious edge

took to the runway at Bottega Veneta.

Zippered bombers were worn over cool

leather trousers and ebony pants were

paired with structured jackets in black,

white and shimmering silver. Thomas

Maier also reworked tailored suits, with

slim-fit jackets instilling a youthful air,

while contrasting panels gave a sleek,

寶緹嘉時裝發布會的伸展台上展現了一種帶有反叛風格的黑暗美學。拉鍊飛行服罩在酷感十足的皮革長褲和黑檀色短褲外面，與一體式的黑色、白色和亮銀色夾克搭配。托馬斯‧梅爾還重新設計了西式套裝，同時貼身的夾克帶來了一種青春的氣息，而與之形成鮮明對比的雜色布條形成了一種圓滑、時尚的感觀。

!!!!

!!

Bu

rberry

Pro

rsum

With flashes of light il luminating a

figure caught in the pouring rain, the

Burberry Prorsum show revelled in its

quintessential Englishness. To cope

with the inclement weather, models

toted umbrellas with ornate handles

and sported an array of stylish flat

caps. Steering clear of a conservative

look, slate-grey skinny pants were

recharged by spotted ties, voluminous

trenches banded with strips of colour,

funky, striped knitwear and studded,

black gloves.

在傾盆大雨下若隱若現的燈光襯托出的背影中，博柏利‧珀鬆時裝發布會展現了純粹的英倫情調。為了應對惡劣的天氣，模特們手握有著絢麗把手的雨傘展示了一系列時尚的平頂帽。為了避免形象過於保守，採用斑點圖案的領帶、飾以色條的蓬鬆雙排鈕外套、另類的條紋針織衫以及帶有飾釘的黑色手套來裝點石板灰修身窄腳褲。

!!!!

!!

Ca

lvin

Klein

Working from a palette dominated by

black, grey and camel, Italo Zucchelli

created a chic collection of pared-

down classics. Unadorned, boxy coats

and simple, crewneck tops paired with

baggy, centre-pleat trousers radiated

a harmonious appeal. Meanwhile,

accelerating the show’s smart casual

finesse, trim, streamlined suits were

worn with unfussy knits and gleaming

lace-up shoes.

伊塔羅‧祖切利採用以黑色、灰色和駝色為主的色調形成了一個簡潔風格的別緻經典系列。未經裝飾的箱形外套以及簡單、圓領上衣與寬鬆、中心褶皺長褲散發出調和的魅力。同時，為了增強時裝發布會靈動的休閒風格，剪裁整齊的流線形套裝與簡約的針織衫和閃亮的繫帶鞋搭配。

!!!!

!"!"

Canali

Reinterpreting English elegance, the

Italian house of Canali paraded tailored,

pinstriped suits and double-breasted

coats amid 60s-inspired graphics, roll-

necked sweaters and lashings of velvet.

Silk ties and pocket handkerchiefs

fuelled the collection’s dandy aesthetic,

while sweeping, army-styled coats,

rigid bomber jackets and studded belts

hinted at a tougher regime.

來自意大利的品牌康納利重新詮釋了英倫典雅氣質，展示了剪裁得當的細條紋套裝和採用靈感源於上世紀60年代圖形的雙排扣上衣、翻領毛衣和大量的天鵝絨服裝。絲質領帶和手帕賦予了整個系列華麗的美感，而風格飄逸、軍裝樣式的上衣、硬質飛行夾克和鉚釘皮帶暗示著這是一個風格剛勁的系列。

!!!!!!!!

!"!"

Dirk

Bik

kem

berg

s

For his debut at Dirk Bikkembergs, South-African designer Hamish Morrow presented a diverse collection of casual looks. Loose-fit leather pants were followed by black, double-breasted jackets and carnation pink sweaters. For a striking contrast, sporty nuances rippled through the show with the addit ion of baseball- l ike caps and gripping tops, while military-inspired coats infused a sense of structured rigidity.

首次為Dirk Bikkembergs 操刀的南非設計師哈米西‧莫羅呈現了一個風格多樣的便裝系列。在寬鬆的皮革短褲之後，黑色雙排扣夾克和康乃馨粉色毛衣相繼出場。為了形成強烈對比，整個時裝發布會充滿了動感色調，同時增加了仿壘球帽和引人注目的上裝，而靈感來自軍裝的上衣形成了有機的剛勁感。

!"!"!"!"

!"!"

Do

lce & G

abb

an

a

With their show entitled ‘Tailoring

Ba roque ’ , Do l ce and Gabbana

employed traditional Italian fabrics and

tailoring techniques to create modern

pieces steeped in nostalgia. Before a

backdrop of draping curtains, twinkling

chandeliers and gilded chairs, models

paraded dapper suits and sleek,

double-breasted coats. To capture the

were incorporated, with silky prints,

velvet touches and shots of fabulous,

dusted-gold embroidery accentuating

the collection’s brilliant, antique fervour.

在以“巴洛克裁剪”為主題的時裝發布會上，杜嘉班納采用了意大利傳統布料和裁剪方法設計出了沉浸於懷舊思緒中的現代感服裝。在褶皺窗簾、閃閃發光的枝形吊燈和鍍金椅子的背景下，模特們展示了整潔的套裝和圓滑的雙排扣上衣。為了捕捉舊世界的精髓，採用了奢華的配飾，並且通過絲質印花布、天鵝絨裝飾和少量絢麗的金色刺繡突顯了整個系列亮麗、古樸的風格。

!"!"!"!"

!"!"

DSquared

2

To the beat of Pink Floyd’s ‘We Don’t

Need No Educa t ion ’ , mode ls a t

DSquared2 peeled themselves away

from a classroom backdrop to parade

striding the catwalk in slim-fit suits and

nonchalant ‘students’ clad in distressed

jeans and cropped jackets created

skinny, retro silhouettes. Meanwhile,

narrow ties, diamond-knit vests and fur-

trimmed parkas gave the collection a

distinctly-60s feel.

在平克‧佛洛伊德《我們不需要教育》節拍中，D二次方時裝發布會上的模特們從教室樣式的背景中走出，展示了新古典主義的形象。舍我其誰的身影在伸展台上大步走過，穿著緊身套裝和冷豔的“學生派”破洞牛仔褲和短款夾克形成了瘦削的複古形象。同時，窄版領帶、菱形編織背心和毛皮鑲邊的防風大衣為整個系列賦予了獨特的上世紀60年代感覺。

!"!"!"!"

!"!"

Em

po

rio A

rma

ni

Romantic images took to the runway

at Emporio Armani as models donned

sweeping coats, chic berets and wide-

brimmed fedoras. A minimalist look

prevailed, with pared-down tops and

unfussy knitwear worn over loose-fit

pants. Meanwhile, stiff leather jackets

gave rise to a hard-lined aesthetic that

was mellowed by velvet pants and

draping, tactile scarves.

當模特們身著風格飄逸的上衣、別緻的貝雷帽和寬邊淺頂軟呢帽現身時，安普里奧‧阿瑪尼時裝發布會的伸展台上呈現出浪漫的形象。整個系列以簡約形象為主，簡潔的上裝和針織衫與寬鬆的短褲搭配。同時，硬質皮夾克形成了硬線條的美感，並以天鵝絨短褲和懸垂的觸感頭巾進行調和。

!"!"!"!"

!"!"

En

rico C

overi

There was a collegiate feel to Enrico

Coveri’s latest collection, with models

showcasing dapper suits in slate-grey

and bold checks. Accentuating the

show’s preppy look, hooded, casual

jackets sported toggled closures

and reading glasses were paired

with subdued bowties. Meanwhile, a

60s aura was imbued by roll-necked

sweaters, cuffed, skinny pants and

boxy coats in vibrant tangerine and

deep powder blue.

恩里科‧卡文裡的最新系列有一種學院派的感覺，模特們展示了石板灰醒目方格圖案的整潔套裝。連帽休閒夾克採用牛角扣，低調的蝶形領結配以近視眼鏡，突出了時裝發布會的預科生形象。同時，鮮豔橘紅色和深粉藍色的翻領毛衣、翻邊修身窄腳褲和箱形外套滲透著上世紀60年代的氛圍。

!"!"!"!"

!!!!

Erm

an

no

Scerv

ino

For the coming season, Ermanno

Scerv ino created a cool , casual

collection where the focus was on

its fabulous knitwear. Contemporary

argyle prints spanned sweaters in grey,

green, black and dazzling cornflower

blue. Buttoned, ribbed cardigans were

paired with elegant fedoras and high-

necked pullovers stood out in creamy

ridges and bold, nautical stripes.

Ermanno Scervino為下一季設計了一個酷感十足的休閒系列，其中最引人注目的是絢麗多彩的針織衫。灰色、綠色、黑色和耀眼的矢車菊藍毛衣上穿插著富於現代感的多色菱形印花布。帶鈕扣的棱紋開襟羊毛衫與雅緻的淺頂軟呢帽和高領套衫搭配，上面的奶油色凸紋和航海條紋十分醒目。

!"!"!"!"

!"!"

Erm

eneg

ildo

Zeg

na

Set against a backdrop of falling snow

and flickering flames, Ermenegildo

Zegna showcased a relaxed collection

perfect for that weekend retreat in the

mountains. Smart, casual trousers

were paired with simple, roll-necked

sweaters and unbuttoned shirts. For

ventures beyond the cabin, embossed

leather and lashings of shearl ing

promised to keep out the cold, while a

myriad of sleek, plaid suits heralded a

return to city dwelling.

以漫天飄落的大雪和閃爍不定的火焰作為背景，傑尼亞展示了非常適合週末在山岳之間休假的休閒系列。剪裁靈巧的休閒褲與簡約的翻領毛衣和無鈕襯衫搭配。如果要到戶外探險，壓花皮革和大量的綿羊革可以抵禦嚴寒，而多種多樣的超炫的格子花呢套裝預示著回歸城市生活。

!"!"!"!"

!"!"

Etro

Billed as ‘The Great Flight’, Kean Etro’s

show saw models str ide between

theatrical images of Pegasus, taking

on lookers on a myth ica l journey.

The resul t was a fabulous, g iddy

mix of feathery details, from striking

cummerbunds and tactile vests to fine

scarf fringing and bold, whirling prints.

Dramatic, Aztec-inspired designs crept

across jackets, traced the length of

coats and engulfed svelte suits, printed

shirts and standout ties.

金恩‧艾特羅的時裝發布會以“偉大的飛行”作為宣傳口號，模特們在具有戲劇效果的飛馬形象之間穿梭，帶著觀眾們踏上一段神話之旅。羽毛細節以天外飛仙、眼花繚亂的方式搭配，從醒目的寬腰帶和充滿觸感的背心到精緻的頭巾緣飾和引人注目的漩渦形印花布。靈感來自阿茲克特文化的誇張設計樣式充斥著各款夾克、上衣、貼身套裝、印花襯衫和亮色領帶。

!"!"!"!"

!"!"

Fra

nk

ie Mo

rello

Ever the showmen, for their latest v e n t u r e , M a u r i z i o M o d i c a a n d Pierfrancesco Gigliotti captivated with a bri l l iant, gl ittering extravaganza. Envisaging the darkness found in a metropolis, spiked with images of tarmac and metal, the duo created jet black pieces, covered in trailing masses of studs. With the coming of dawn, so too came traces of the Orient with fringing, embroidered smocks and draping beads to purify the soul.

作為長期的秀場達人，Maurizio Modica與Pierfrancesco Gigliotti的最新作品簡直就是一場絢麗多姿、光彩奪目的華麗表演。整個系列以都市中的黑暗作為出發點，展示了柏油碎石和金屬的形象。二人組設計了烏黑色的服裝並採用大量鈕扣加以點綴。隨著拂曉的來臨，通過帶有緣飾的刺繡罩衫和垂懸的串珠使得東方的印跡也逐漸顯現，體現出淨化靈魂的主題。

!"!"!"!"

!"!"

Gazza

rrini

Gazza r r i n i p resen ted a pa red -

down collection in sombre shades,

punctuated by vibrant shots of deep

turquoise and hot pink. Playing with

proportion, Marco Ciampalini paired

fitted jackets with baggy, cropped

pants and clean- l ined sui ts with

elongated, zippered tops. Unfussy

boots re in forced the min ima l i s t

aesthetic, while patterned cardigans

and mottled scarves infused the show

Gazzarrini呈現了一個色調幽暗的簡約系列並採用少量鮮豔的深青綠色和亮粉色作為點綴。馬克‧恰帕里尼非常注重比例協調，將貼身夾克與寬鬆的短褲、線條清晰的套裝和加長拉鍊上裝搭配。簡約的靴子增強了極簡主義的美感，而花紋開襟羊毛衫和雜色頭巾為時裝發布會注入了巧妙、艷麗的華彩。

!"!"!"!"

!"!"

Gio

rgio

Arm

an

i

Adhering to a dark palette, Giorgio

Armani created an array of striking,

casual looks that radiated with an air

of sophistication. Fitted, black leather

jackets grazed draping, grey pants

and cool, fingerless gloves brushed

smartly-tailored overcoats. Marle knits

and buttoned vests instilled nonchalant

touches, while stylish berets, sapphire

collection’s luxurious undercurrent.

在延續一貫暗色調的基礎上，喬治‧阿瑪尼設計了一系列醒目的休閒形象，散發著強烈的成熟感。貼身黑皮夾克配以懸垂的灰色短褲，酷感十足的無指手套與裁剪精巧的大衣相映成趣。灰色編織衫和鈕扣背心帶出冷豔的觸感，而時尚的貝雷帽、天藍色絲質襯衫和皮大衣再次突出了整個系列奢華暗湧的主題。

fashion from the runway

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