30 Rice Today January-March 2011

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Institute, and a pharmacist herself (she is a life member of the Indian Council of Pharmacy), makes this scrumptious snack for family and guests.

“Pongal,” she says, “is a harvest festival widely celebrated by Tamil farmers in the Indian state of Tamil Nadu and also in Sri Lanka to give thanks to the sun god for the abundance of their harvest.” Pongal, which also marks the first day of Tamizh on the Tamil calendar, means “boiling or spilling over” in the Tamil language. The expression refers to the preparation of Pongal rice, a porridge dish unique to Tamil cuisine and traditionally prepared for the harvest festival.

According to the ritual, rice is boiled with milk and other ingredients in a new clay pot over an open fire. The milk is allowed to boil and spill over the pot to symbolize overflowing abundance and future prosperity for the family.

Sakkarai PongalWhat’s cooking?

A tasty Tamil confection

Ingredients• Rice (uncooked) 1 cup • Milk 1 cup• Grated coconut ½ cup• Jaggery (unrefined brown sugar) 300 grams• Green gram or mungbean dhal 50 grams• Cashews and raisins 20 grams• Cardamom (crushed) 4 pieces• Butter 2 tablespoons• Water 3 1/4 cups

This recipe is good for four people.

In a 4:36 video on YouTube at http://snipurl.com/1li8iu, Ms. Banu gives step-by-step instructions on how to prepare this delectable dish.

Cooking directions1. Combine the uncooked rice, milk, and dhal in a pressure

cooker. Add 3 cups of water and boil for 20–30 minutes until the rice and dhal mixture is cooked. Mash the ingredients thoroughly. Set aside.

2. Mix the jaggery with ¼ cup of water in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and heat it on a low flame until the sugar melts completely. Strain the syrup to remove any impurities.

3. Combine the cooked rice, dhal mixture, and brown sugar syrup while stirring slowly. Add the grated coconut and crushed cardamom. Allow to boil for a few minutes. Set aside.

4. Heat 1 tablespoon of butter in a pan over medium-high heat. Fry the cashews, followed by the raisins, and use them as a garnish.

29Rice Today April-June 2011

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Patti Heong, spouse of Dr. K.L. Heong, a senior scientist at IRRI responsible for research on arthropod ecology and integrated

pest management, often makes this simple but delicious soup for lunch or a snack.

Patti, who has been at IRRI since the Heong family arrived in 1989, was previously an executive secretary to a director at Tractors Malaysia. “Cooking has always been my hobby,” she says. “I like to experiment with different recipes and tastes. With this dish, I am integrating Cantonese and Malaysian tastes.”

"Ipoh Kway Teow Soup,” she adds, “also known in Cantonese as Yi Poh Sar Hor Fun, can be found in most food courts and hawkers' haunts throughout major towns in Malaysia. It is served in clear soup and is like a comfort food—very light. This dish is named after Ipoh, the capital city of the state of Perak in my home country of Malaysia, since it is believed that the best kway teow (rice noodles) originated from that area.”

Ipoh Kway Teow What’s cooking?

A simple but flavorful Malaysian rice noodle soup

Ingredients• Ricenoodles(substitutewithrice-sticknoodlesiffresh

noodlesarenotreadilyavailable):50–60grams• 1chickenbreast(boiledandshredded)• 2largeshrimp(pan-friedwithshellon).Whencooked,

removeshellandsliceprawnsintohalves,lengthwise• ½cupchives:wash,rinse,cutinto2-inchlengths,then

diptheminboilingwatertoblanch• ½cuptoge(mungbeansprouts):wash,rinse,thendip

theminboilingwatertoblanch• 2tbspfriedshallots(nativeonion)forgarnishing

Watch Ms. Heong demonstrate how to prepare the dish in a 3:44 video on YouTube at http://snipurl.com/rice-noodle_soup.

Cooking directionsBoilthericenoodlesorrice-sticknoodlesuntilaldente(i.e.,firmbutnotsoftlikeinpasta;notovercooked).Drain.Putthenoodlesinabowl.Topwiththecookedchicken,shrimp,chives,andtoge.Ladlepiping-hotchickensoup(orbroth)overthenoodles.Garnishwithfriedshallots.Accompanydishwithfreshlycutchiliesmixedwithsoyasauce.Thebrothcanbemadewithchickencubesorachickensouppack.

Enjoy!

32 Rice Today July-September 2011

Biryani is a rice-based meal made with spices, rice (usually basmati), and meat, fish, eggs, or vegetables. The name is derived from the

Persian word beryā, which means fried or roasted.

The dish originated from Iran (Persia) and was brought to the Indian subcontinent by Iranian travelers and merchants. Biryani is popular not only in South Asia but also in Arabia and within various South Asian communities in Western countries. It has many local variants.

The recipe presented here by Sam Mohanty, head of the Social Sciences Division at the International Rice Research Institute (IRRI), is a somewhat simplified Indian version of what he says can be a very complex confection.

Dr. Mohanty, who joined IRRI in 2008, is a widely published and award-winning economist with a knack for cooking for his family when he is not searching for the direction of the global rice market (see Rice Facts on pages 44-45).

S a m ' S

Chicken Biryani

What’s cooking?

Watch Dr. Mohanty demonstrate how to prepare this dish in a 12:26 video on YouTube at http://snipurl.com/sams_chicken_biryani.

Ingredients• 4tablespoonsvegetableoil• 4smallpotatoes,peeledandhalved• 6eggs,boiledandpeeled• 3–4largeonions,sliced• 2clovesgarlic,crushed• 1tablespoongingerpaste• 1/2teaspoonchilipowder• 1/2teaspoongroundturmeric• 1teaspoonsalt(accordingtotaste)• 2–3mediumtomatoes,chopped• 2–3greenchilies(accordingtotaste)• 2tablespoonsplainyogurt• 15–20freshmintleaves• 2tablespoonschoppedfreshcilantroleaves• 3poundsskinlesschickenpieces(thighandleg)• 8podsgreencardamom• 10podsblackcardamom• 5–6bayleaves• 8wholecloves• 1(1inch)piececinnamonstick• 1poundbasmatirice• 11/2teaspoonssalt

Directions1. Cleanandwashthechicken.Marinatethechickenwithyogurt,salt,

turmeric,andchilipowderfor2hours.

2. Inapot,addvegetableoilandfrytheonionsuntiltheyaresoftandgolden.Addgarlicandgingerpasteandthewholespices.Fryandcontinuouslystirfor5minutes.Addgreenchiliesandtomatoesandfryforanother5minutes.Coverandcookoverlowheat,stirringoccasionallyuntilthetomatoesarecookedtoapulp.Itmaybenecessarytoaddalittlehotwaterifthemixturebecomestoodryandstartstosticktothepot.

3. Whenthemixtureisthickandsmooth,addthemarinatedchickenpiecesandpotatoesandstirwelltocoatthemwiththespicemixture.Coverandcookoververylowheatuntilthechickenistender—approximately35to45minutes.Thereshouldbeonlyalittleverythickgravyleftwhenthechickenisfinishedcooking.Ifnecessary,cookuncoveredforafewminutestoreducetheamountofgravy.

4. Washricewellandsoakitfor30minutes.5. Putplentyofwaterinanotherpot,addsalt,andboilthewater.

Oncethewaterstartstoboil,drainthesoakedriceandputitintheboilingwater.Boilitagainatahightemperaturefor5–7minutes.

6. “Parcook”therice(meaning3/4cooked,whiletherestwilljustgetcookedlater).Donotboilthericetoomuch.

7. Putcilantroleavesontopofthecookedchicken,stirthemin,thenaddmintontop.Drainandaddthe“par-cooked”riceontopofthismixture.

8. Coverthepottightly,turnheattoverylow,andsteamfor20minutes.Donotliftthelidorstirwhilecooking.

9. Spoonthebiryaniontoaservingdishandgarnishwithhalvedboiledeggs.

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36 Rice Today October-December 2011

Congee is the first meal of the day in many parts of Asia, and it makes a wonderful snack too. It is simply rice

cooked in an excess of stock such as pork or chicken, with a range of savory additives. In Lao PDR, it is called khao piak khao, which literally means “wet rice.” Both the stock and rice require some forward-planning, but it is well rewarded.

What’s cooking?

Watch Dr. Vial demonstrate how to prepare this dish in a 8:52 video on YouTube at http://snipurl.com/lao_congee.

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Boil stockIn a large pot, put 4–5 liters of water, then add:A large piece of pork or chicken (up to 1 kilogram)A few pieces of ginger, according to taste2–3 whole onions, according to taste2–3 whole small coriander plants

Boil slowly for 30–60 minutes. Powdered stock with added ginger is a much quicker option if you have less time.

Cook riceAdd a cup of rice (good for four persons) to about 2 liters of stock, but you can dilute the stock according to taste. Some people use some or all glutinous rice for a creamier texture. Boil slowly for 30–60 minutes. Rice can be cooked ahead of time (cooked in the standard way, one part rice and one part water), then simmer the precooked rice in stock when required.

Add toppingsSome suggested toppings are the following, for one person:A tablespoon of fried garlicA tablespoon of chopped spring onionsA tablespoon of chopped corianderOne sliced boiled eggA pinch of dried or fresh chillies

Add ground pepper and soy sauce to taste.

Note: Other toppings are limited only by your imagination!

Source of the recipe: Thanks to my instructor Deng, the proprietor of Kung’s Café Lao, just around the corner from Wat Simuang, Vientiane, Lao PDR.

Dr. Vial came to the Philippines to head IRRI’s Experiment Station

in early 2011, after a 15-year career in the Australian rice industry, then 3 years pursuing a PhD and consulting to an Australian Centre for International Agricultural Research (ACIAR) lowland rice project in Lao PDR. Three years in Lao PDR exposed him and his family to the full range of Southeast Asian cooking. Congee proved a particular favorite for him, his wife, Sue, and two boys, Digby and Rory.

Laotiancongeeby Leigh Vial

42 Rice Today January-March 2012

Soft-centered chocolate pudding using rice flour

What’s cooking?

Watch Dr. Howell demonstrate how to prepare this dish in a 7-minute video on YouTube at http://snipurl.com/pudding_rice and see a short note about him in his article Plight of the rice birds on pages 38-39.

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Ingredients 100 grams butter (3.5 oz)

200 grams dark chocolate (7 oz)

140 grams granulated sugar (approximately 1 cup)

4 eggs

40 grams rice flour (approximately 1/3 cup)

vanilla paste or essence to taste

Directions1. Butter and flour six 200-milliliter (3/4 cup)

darioles (small round molds).

2. Melt chocolate and butter together and mix thoroughly until glossy. Take care that the chocolate only just melts as it can split and, if it is too hot when added to the egg mixture, can partially cook the mixture before it is incorporated.

3. Separate the whites from the egg yolks and beat the whites with an electric mixer on high until foam forms.

Chocolate puddings are great for dinner parties. This recipe can be prepared between courses. The ingredients are fairly simple since it’s basically a soufflé mix. The rice flour in the recipe acts as binder, so adding too much flour would make it too heavy. Rice flour is being

used to create foods that require starch because of growing allergy problems worldwide tied to the use of wheat flour. Since this pudding is similar to a soufflé, it’s better to overcook it and lose the soft center than to take it out too early and have it collapse.

by Greg Howell

4. Continue to beat as you gradually add the sugar.

5. When you can no longer feel the sugar granules, add the yolks and continue to beat them until incorporated.

6. With a whisk, add the chocolate mix and a teaspoon of vanilla paste.

7. Lastly, whisk in the rice flour.

8. Spoon or pour the mixture into the prepared darioles until they are ¾ filled.

9. Bake in a preheated oven at 180 oC (350 oF) for 10 to 15 minutes.

10. Turn off the oven and let the puddings sit for at least 10 minutes before serving.

11. To serve, run a knife between the outer edge of the pudding and the mold, then turn it out onto your serving plate.

12. Dust with confectioner’s sugar and serve with vanilla ice cream or fresh whipped cream.

Serves 6.

My own sense of fulfillment comes from being able to make something truly magnificent and present it to friends. Even if you don’t grow or prepare every ingredient every single time, an intimate knowledge on how it is done enriches my appreciation—way beyond anything that is presented fait accompli in a restaurant or place where I first encountered a food that I particularly like.

34 Rice Today April-June 2012

Panfried glutinous rice with shiitake mushrooms and chicken

What’s cooking?

Watch Ms.Faulkner demonstrate how to prepare this scrumptious dish in a 5:08 video on YouTube at http://snipurl.com/panfried_rice.

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Ingredients250 grams (8.8 oz) glutinous rice (soaked for at least 4 hours,

best overnight)1 whole Chinese sausage (sliced)6–8 pieces dried shiitake mushrooms (soaked for 2 hours)300 grams (10.5 oz) uncooked chicken breast/leg (thinly sliced)1 tablespoon sesame oil2 tablespoons soy sauce1 teaspoon oyster sauce (optional)Salt and pepper to taste100 mL water2 cloves garlic (skinned and finely chopped)1 tablespoon cooking oil GarnishesCarrot (julienned)Spring onions1 teaspoon sesame seeds (lightly toasted) Directions1. Drain the soaked glutinous rice in a colander.2. In a small bowl, mix sesame oil, soy sauce, and oyster sauce,

then set aside. Remove the soaked mushrooms from water and squeeze dry. Flatten them, slice thinly, and add to the marinade of soy sauce and sesame oil. Mix thoroughly.

by Alexis Faulkner

3. Slice the chicken as desired and mix with the mushrooms, then marinate.

4. On a medium setting, heat a tablespoon of oil in a frying pan. Add chopped garlic. As the garlic browns, add the drained glutinous rice and stir gently, coating all the grains with oil.

5. Continue stirring the rice. As the pan dries out, drizzle a tablespoon of water over the rice. As the contents of the pan sizzle, gently turn the rice to ensure thorough cooking.

6. Do not add water too quickly as this will soak the rice, making it wet and mushy.

7. When the rice grains are almost transparent, taste a few grains. Glutinous rice is cooked when it is chewy.

8. Push the rice to the side of the pan and add the marinated chicken and mushrooms. Stir-fry for a minute and then mix in the rice with the chicken and mushrooms, and add a little water if required. When the chicken is cooked, add the Chinese sausage slices and another tablespoon of water and gently mix everything. Allow the water to evaporate and continue turning the mixture until the rice begins to crisp and brown.

9. Serve immediately and garnish with spring onions, julienned carrot, and sesame seeds.

Serves 6.

his fried glutinous rice (with chicken and mushrooms) is a family favorite among most Malaysian Chinese, who usually gather on weekends either at home or in a restaurant. This dish is a variation of the steamed glutinous chicken rice

Ms. Faulkner is Malaysian Chinese and lived in the United Kingdom most of her life after leaving Malaysia at the age of 17. She studied hotel catering and management and worked in various hotels in London and some countries in Europe. On her return from Europe, she switched paths and worked as an accountant in the private sector. Cooking has always been her passion and she spends most of her days in the kitchen experimenting with different ingredients and adapting recipes to local availability.

wrapped in lotus leaves (Lo mai kai) served at a Dim Sum restaurant.

Fried glutinous rice can be served as a main course or as a snack, or can be eaten straight from the pan piping hot, and accompanied by freshly brewed Chinese tea.

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Thiebou dieune: Senegal’s rice and fish dish

What’s cooking?

Watch Mrs. Dieng demonstrate how to prepare this delicious dish in a 6:05-minute video on YouTube at http://youtu.be/Ra0X0CzYCqk.

by Mariama Dieng

Among the rice dishes prepared in Senegal, a country situated in West Africa, the most popular is Thiebou dieune (pronounced “chebu jen”), which is a richly flavored combination of fresh fish, rice, and vegetables.

Thieb, in local Wolof language, means rice, while dieune means fish.This dish requires 30–40 minutes of preparation and about an

hour and a half of cooking time. For this recipe, a wide variety of vegetables and fish can be

used, making Thiebou dieune a versatile and healthy dish. Broken rice is preferred because it seems to better absorb the sauce and is more pleasing to the taste than long-grain rice.

Ingredients

• 1largefish(about2kg,preferablyagrouperoranyotherwhitefish),rinsedandcutinto4largechunks

• 250gramstomatoconcentrate• 1cuppeanutorvegetableoil• 1kgrice(Senegaleseprefertousebrokenriceforthisrecipe,butyoucanusenormalrice)

• 100gramsdriedfishsuchasstockfish,rinsed

• 200gramscarrots,peeled• 200gramscassava,peeled• 1smallcabbagecutinquarters• 4okra(optional)• 4sweetpotatoes,peeled• 2eggplantswiththeirstemsremovedandcutinhalf

• 4smallturnips,peeled• 1onion• 1clovegarlic• 3greenchilipeppers• 1bunchfreshparsley• 1smallgreenbellpepper• 1Jumbocube(ifnotavailable,substituteitwithafish-orshrimp-flavoredMaggicube)

• Salttotaste• 1tablespoonblackpepper

Preparation

1. Deseedandcutthebellpepperinhalf.Slicetheonionandfinelychoptheparsley.Peelthegarliccloveandcutitintotwopieces.

2. Makeapastebygrindingtogethertheparsley,halfofthechilipepper,ahalftablespoonoftheblackpepper,andhalfofthegarlicclovewithamortarandpestleorinagrinder.Addapinchofsalt.

3. Usingaknife,makeaslitineachchunkoffish,butbecarefulnottocutallthewaythrough.Stufftheslitswiththispaste.

4. Heat2–3inchesofoilinalargepanandfrythefishfor3–4minutesonbothsides.Removethefishandsetaside.

5. Inthesamepan,fryhalfoftheslicedonionandhalfofthebellpepperandchilipepper.Addthetomatoconcentrate(diluteitwithalittlewater),letitsimmerfor2–3minutes,pour1literofwateronit,andaddsalt.Boilthemixturefor5minutes.

6. Addallthevegetablesandtherinseddriedfishalongwiththeremainingchilipeppers,thencoverandsimmeronlowheatfor30minutes.

7. Grindtogethertheremainingblackpepper,garlic,andonion,andtheremaininghalfofthebellpepperwiththeJumbocube.

8. Pourthispasteintothepanandaddthefriedfish.Reducetheheatandthensimmerforanother15minutes.

9. Removethefishpiecesandallthevegetableswithalittlesauce.Leavetherestofthesauceinthepan.

10.Washthericeandhalf-cookit(preferablyusingasteamer).Removethehalf-cookedricefromthesteamerandstiritinthepanwiththeremainingsauce.Cookitfor15minutes(stirevery5minutes).

11.Spoonthecookedriceontoalargeservingplatter,arrangethefishandvegetablesovertherice,andgarnishwithlemonwedges.

Serves4–5.

Mrs. Dieng is a Senegalese national who lives with her husband and two children in Cotonou, Benin. She holds a bachelor’s degree in management assistance and works in Corporate Services at the Africa Rice Center (AfricaRice). When she’s not busy at work, she loves cooking big meals for friends and family.

Bon appétit!

20 Rice Today July-September 2012

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38 Rice Today October-December 2012

What’s cooking?

Watch Sue and Dtae demonstrate how to prepare this appetizing Laotian dish in a 6-minute video on YouTube

at http://snipurl.com/lao-sticky-rice.

Sue lived in Lao PDR for 4 years before moving to the Philippines in 2011 with her husband, IRRI experiment station head Leigh Vial. She met Dtae at the Wildlife Conservation Society in Lao PDR, where they both worked on tiger conservation. During social gatherings, which often revolved around food, Sue found Laotian dishes delicious and seriously addictive. Dtae is now studying for her master's degree at the University of the Philippines Los Baños. Sue and Dtae, together with some Lao students, regularly meet to cook, chat, laugh, and enjoy Lao food.

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Steamed sticky rice is an essential part of every meal in Lao PDR. In most cases,

it is preferred to regular steamed rice. True to its name, steamed sticky rice sticks together in one big heap.

In Lao PDR, the best way to eat sticky rice and eggplant dip is with your hands. And, this is how it is done: simply tear a bite size of rice from the sticky rice heap, roll it into a small ball, and enjoy with grilled eggplant dip or any Lao dish of your choice.

Khao niao (Steamed sticky rice)

Ingredients1 kg sticky rice3 liters water (for soaking)

DirectionsRinse the sticky rice under running water until the water runs clear. Soak the rice in the water for 2–3 hours. Soaking the rice will reduce the cooking time, so soak for as long as possible.

Once soaked, drain the rice, removing all excess water, then place the sticky rice into a steaming basket and begin to steam. After about 30 minutes, turn the rice over and further steam for 10–15 minutes until cooked.

Set aside.

Jeow mak keua (Grilled eggplant dip)

Ingredients500 grams Japanese eggplant6 pieces shallots10 cloves garlic

Laotian steamed sticky rice with eggplant dipby Sue Pretty and Sysomphane Sengthavideth

10 pieces chilies4 tbsp fish sauce1 tsp lime juiceA handful of coriander leaves, finely chopped Salt to taste

DirectionsGrill the eggplants, chillies, shallots, and garlic until the skins are charred. Remove from the grill and cool. Then peel the eggplants, shallots, and garlic and chop coarsely.

Using a mortar and pestle, pound the chilies and salt. Add the shallots and garlic and continue to pound until all the ingredients are crushed.

Next, add the eggplants, lime juice, and fish sauce and pound again until the ingredients are well combined. Lastly, mix in the coriander leaves. Serve with the steamed sticky rice.

Tip: Do not use water when peeling the skin of the eggplants—they will become soggy and will also lose their incredible smoky flavor.

Serves 3–6.

11Rice Today January-March 2013

What’s cooking?

ith a fascinating historical heritage, rich cultural diversity, extraordinary scenic beauty, and friendly people, Ghana is a charming blend of old and new. Ghanaian cuisine has a wide variety of traditional dishes, such as the popular Waakye (pronounced waa-chay), a rice and beans combination, which is both delicious and nutritious.

Waakye was earlier popular mainly in northern Ghana but has now gained national status and is

Ghana’s popular rice and beans dish

Ingredients2 cups rice1 cup red beans or black-eyed peas, or any

kind of beans or peas 4 dry sorghum leaves (or 1 teaspoon of

baking soda)Salt to taste10 cups water

Preparation1. Wash and soak the beans in water for 3–4

hours. 2. Drain the beans and place them in a large

pot of water.3. Bring the mixture to a boil and let it cook

for about 45 minutes.4. Wash the sorghum leaves.5. Cut the leaves 3 to 4 inches, toss them in

with the boiling beans, and allow them to cook together.

Waakye: A popular dish from Ghana made with rice and beans

Mrs. Manful lives with her family in Tema, a town located 25 km east of Accra, Ghana’s capital. She works as a chief revenue officer under the Ghana Revenue Authority. She loves to cook traditional dishes from her country for her friends and family, especially for her husband, John Manful, plant breeder at the Africa Rice Center.

by Eugenia Manful

loved by grownups and children alike. It can be prepared at home, but, in Ghana, it is more popular as a street food. It is also eaten in Nigeria, Togo, and Benin, where it is prepared in slightly different ways.

Waakye is usually served for breakfast or lunch with a typical Ghanaian spicy pepper sauce. It can be a meal in itself or it can be eaten with boiled eggs and/or with a stew of fish, chicken, beef, or vegetables.

The dish requires about 15 minutes of preparation and an hour and a half of cooking time.

W

6. If sorghum leaves are not available, add a teaspoon of baking soda to give the Waakye its characteristic color.

7. Remove the sorghum leaves from the beans after 5 minutes.

8. Wash the rice and add to the beans in the pot, along with more water.

9. Allow the mixture to cook for 15–20 minutes (or until the beans are tender and the rice is cooked and all liquid has been totally absorbed).

10. Be sure that the mixture does not burn and keep stirring while it cooks.

11. Season with salt.12. Serve the dish with pepper sauce and

boiled egg and/or a stew of fish, chicken, beef, or vegetables.

Serves 4.

Watch Mrs. Manful demonstrate how to prepare this delicious dish in a 6-minute video on YouTube at http://youtu.be/okXqTQbbm68 or listen to a podcast at http://snipurl.com/waakye2.

Mrs. Manful serves Waakye with pepper sauce, fried fish, grilled chicken, and boiled egg.

Bon appétit!

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10 Rice Today April-June 2013

What’s cooking? asala dosa is a traditional southern Indian dish that has become popular all over India. The batter for this recipe has rice and black gram beans, making it rich in carbohydrates and protein. Since it is prepared with minimal oil, this makes it an even healthier dish. It can be savored as part of any meal of the day or as a quick snack. Masala dosa is rich in flavor and is especially enjoyed when served with coconut chutney or sambar, a popular vegetable stew, in southern India. Its broth is basically made with tamarind and pigeon peas. Masala dosa

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Dosa batterIngredients 1 1/2 cups rice1/2 cup skinless black gram beans 1/2 teaspoon fenugreek seeds (optional)salt to taste

Directions1. soak in separate containers the rice, black gram beans, and

fenugreek seeds overnight. 2. Pour out some of the water from the soaked rice and grind the

rest into a thick paste. set aside. 3. Grind the soaked black gram beans and fenugreek seeds together. 4. add the rice paste to the mixture of black gram beans and

fenugreek seeds. add some salt. Mix these ingredients together. 5. Let this mixed batter ferment for 6–7 hours.6. then add salt after fermentation.

by Sunita Jena and Indira Jena

MasaLa chutneyIngredients 1/2 teaspoon ginger 4–5 cloves garlic 4 red chilies soaked in warm water for 4 hours1 teaspoon cumin powder1/4 cup roasted bengal gram (or roasted peanuts) soaked for 4 hours to make soft1 tablespoon tomato ketchup (optional)2 tablespoons lime juicesalt to taste

Directions1. Grind ginger, garlic, dry red chili, and a little bit of tomato

ketchup. 2. Make this a medium-thick paste by adding water little by little.3. Put in the lime juice and add salt to taste. 4. then add some water to grind all this into a paste.

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11Rice Today April-June 2013

Watch Sunita and Mrs. Jena demonstrate how to prepare this delicious Indian dish in a 10-minute

video on YouTube at http://snipurl.com/masaladosa.

Sunita Jena, while still far behind in her mother's cooking skills, is slowly starting to learn and appreciate the art of cooking before she gets busy with medical school in the U.S. next year.

Just like Sunita, Mrs. Indira Jena learned most of her cooking skills from her mother too. Moreover, Mrs. Jena satisfies her curiosity about dishes of other cultures by watching cooking documentaries on TV and on the Internet whenever she can. She loves to cook Indian dishes for her children and husband, Dr. K.K. Jena, IRRI plant breeder.

Through this recipe, both Sunita and Mrs. Jena hope to inspire curiosity in others about Indian dishes.

Potato stuffinGIngredients 400 grams (or 2 big) half-mashed potatoes (boiled and peeled)1 medium-sized chopped onion1/2 cup peas2 tablespoons oil 1 teaspoon mustard seeds1/2 teaspoon skinless black gram beans 1/2 teaspoon bengal gram 1 1/2 teaspoons grated ginger2 to 3 green chilies 1 dry red chili2 stems of curry leaves1/4 teaspoon turmeric powder 1/4 teaspoon red chili powder 1/4 teaspoon dry mango powder (or lime juice)2 stems of coriander leaves, choppedsalt to taste (3/4 teaspoon)

Directions1. heat the oil in a pan and put in the

mustard seeds. 2. When the seeds crackle, add the black

gram beans and bengal gram, and sauté on a medium flame for about 30 seconds.

3. add the green chilies, dry red chili, curry leaves, and chopped onion. then sauté on a medium flame for about 3 minutes and stir occasionally.

4. Mix in the half-mashed potatoes, peas, turmeric powder, and dry mango powder (or lemon juice), and salt to taste.

5. cook on a medium flame for about 2 minutes while stirring from time to time.

6. add the chopped coriander leaves, and cook on a medium flame for about 1 minute.

7. set aside to cool.

Directions for preparing the dosa1. once the batter has been fermented,

check its consistency—if too thick, add some water (make sure the batter is not too thick or too thin).

2. heat a nonstick pan and sprinkle a little water on it (this should make it sizzle immediately).

3. then wipe the pan with a cold, damp cloth (to make the batter spread better later).

5. before the pan gets hot again, quickly pour 1 ladlefull of batter into the pan and spread it in a circular motion with the ladle to make a thin dosa.

6. heat the pan a bit more to make the dosa crispier.

7. smear 1 teaspoon of oil on the edges of the dosa.

8. spread the masala chutney evenly over the dosa.

9. then put some of the potato stuffing on the dosa.

10. cook till the dosa turns golden brown. 11. fold it over and press it lightly using a

spatula to make a flat roll. 12. repeat these steps to finish off the rest

of the batter to make more masala-filled dosas.

13. serve with coconut chutney or sambar.

36 Rice Today July-September 2013

What’s cooking?

Risotto is one of the most important and beloved traditional Italian dishes,

particularly in Milan. It is served immediately and eaten warm, which is why it is mainly a winter dish. It is a primo, or served on its own before the main course.

Risotto is a method of cooking rice varieties that are grown in Italy such as Carnaroli, Arborio, and Vialone Nano. Rice first arrived in Italy in the 13th century when it was brought by the Moors, Saracens, and priests traveling from Asia. It was initially cultivated in Sicily and around Naples. Later, rice cultivation moved to the Po Valley in northern Italy after pasta became the preferred staple of the southern population.

As with most great Italian dishes, the original risotto recipe has changed over time. The version of risotto that we know today was described by

by Luigi Concetti

Risotto alla MilaneseAntonio Nebbia in his 1779 cookbook, Il Cuoco Maceratese, in which he writes about the technique that allows rice to cook slowly and absorb the broth, ladle by ladle, after it has been toasted with soffritto (sautéed onion).

This is a simple recipe to prepare but all is not so easy. Patience and a little bit of practice are important in cooking a perfect risotto. It requires precise methods of cooking known as tostatura and mantecatura. Tostatura means toasting the rice with the soffritto on low heat for 4–6 minutes. The onions for the soffritto should be chopped to the size of the rice grains so that the onion cannot be distinguished from the rice in the finished dish. Mantecatura is the process of adding the parmesan cheese and cold butter into the risotto, off the heat, and mixing vigorously.

To make Risotto alla Milanese, it is important to use fresh ingredients for the stock or broth. The stock

has to be very tasty and enriched with vegetables, fresh herbs, cloves, cinnamon, nutmeg, and grated orange peel.

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37Rice Today July-September 2013

Risotto alla Milanese (serves 4)IngredientsStock:4.5 liters water300–400 g or one whole hen250 g beef2 large onions2 stalks celery2 cinnamon sticks1 carrot1 large potato1 zucchini (courgette) 1 tsp white pepper (whole pepper corns)1 tsp cloves1 tablespoon rock saltPeel from ½ orangeA small bunch of parsley, rosemary, thyme,

and bay leaves

DirectionsPlace all the ingredients in a large saucepan and boil for about 2 hours, skimming the broth when necessary. Filter when done.Risotto:2.5 liters stock 320 g Carnaroli rice60 g grated parmesan cheese 40 g unsalted butter2 tsp extra-virgin olive oil2 large spoons bone marrow (optional)1 tsp saffron threads1 packet saffron powder (preferably from

Abbruzzo, Italy)1 small yellow onion, chopped to the size of

rice grains1 glass dry white wineSalt and pepper to taste

Directions Put two ladles of stock with the saffron in a separate pan, and keep hot. In another pan, boil the dry white wine for 2 minutes until the alcohol evaporates. Keep hot.

In a large pan, put in the olive oil, one teaspoon of butter (keep the remaining butter at cold temperature), and chopped onions. Cook over medium heat and stir for 6–8 minutes until the onion becomes soft. Add the rice and stir for 2 minutes until it becomes slightly translucent. Then add the white wine. Mix until the wine is absorbed by the rice. From this moment, the rice will take 15–16 minutes to cook “al dente.” Add a ladle of stock and cook, gently stirring from the center to the side; turn up the heat a little if necessary. Continue adding the stock, ladle by ladle, while stirring, allowing the rice to cook and the stock to be absorbed each time. Add the saffron stock and continue to stir until the rice absorbs the stock. The risotto should have a creamy texture; as Italians say, “all’ onda” (wavy)—which is caused by the starch coming out of the rice. Keep it creamy by stirring gently. Add the bone marrow and powdered saffron, and stir. Taste the dish. If it is not cooked, add more broth, and continue cooking until it becomes al dente or when there is a slight crunchiness in the middle of the rice. Check the seasoning with care. When ready, remove the pan from the heat and start the mantecatura. Add the parmesan cheese and the rest of the butter. Stir well for about 2 minutes. Now the risotto becomes very creamy. Garnish with some grated parmesan. Serve immediately.

Buon appetito!

Luigi Concetti is a chef by training and currently consultant with Food and Housing Services at IRRI. He arrived in Los Baños in 2009 with his wife, Fiona Hay, genetic resources expert at IRRI. He has had experience setting up a number of restaurants in his home country of Italy. Living in the Philippines, he has enjoyed trying the local cuisine as well as that of other countries that he has visited since coming to Asia—including different varieties of rice.

Watch Luigi demonstrate how to prepare this delicious dish in a 6-minute video on Youtube at

http://sn.im/risotto2.