wine access canada's wine magazine, august september 2010 volume 12 number 5 august, september

CANADA'S WINE MAGAZINE AUGUST / SEPTEMBER 2010 • wineaccess.ca

No time to prepare a home-cooked meal? We dress up 8 classics, from barbecue to Thai, and pour on the wine

+wine-ing Out Wine Access picks sorne of Canada's best restaurant wine lists

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SÎncc 1385. mou chan 26gt:ntracion, aga· Anrinori has becn producinggrc:ar wÎnes From

"lÙSC2ny :and Umbri:1l. lhroughour the company'5 long hisrory it hn remained f:a.mily

owncd and "pcrarcd, and roclay if il dirccted br Marchcse PittO Anrinari.

The trttprion:a1 qu:aliry of [he win« l'CAcets a !'esp«t for tradition, pusion for me und,

and vision for the future.

Ar Fetzer, we beHeve in suslainabiliry - the integration of cnvironmcntal rcsponsibility, social cquiry and cconomic viability in everything we do.

l! nOl only makes us beller stewards of the land and beller winemakers, il makes us beller neighbors and beller members of the community.

Wc know that br making our wines in a naturaJ and responsible way we can continue to make them for generations to come. \"(-t! can aU toast [0 [bat.

The Ear�riendlyWine l''Ioo'Iefls ."......,..l'WnIi'nt.1 �, ... Iy.

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JJI.y fi. CHARDONNAY

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FETZER V'Nlrv ... "oa

"J"II",/ C),.,J" MERLOT

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FETZER �rea( �bnll1iJ�J ApPETIZER CHALLENGE

T he F.:tz.:r Gr.:at Ikginnings !\ppeti1.er Chalknge has found its nÎch{' as one of the most k.:.:nly conlest.:d culinary challeng.:s on th.: VancouI·er

Playhous.: Inlernalional WÎn . . . Fe5til·alwhich Îs widel)' hailed as on.: of the leading wÎne el·enlS ofÎts kind anywhere.

The fonn:11 r.:quir.:s partÎcÎlXuing r�'5-taurant chefs 10 creaI.: a dish 10 pair wilh a F.:tzer wille ofth ... ir choice.

Each )".:ar, as chefs vic for 101' hOllour5_ the (alibrc of enl rics prc:sent.:d to th.: judging panel of food probsionals riscs, a barOlllelcr of the thril'ing Van<:oul"er dinillg scene at large.

Evcr)' dish is judgcd for its creativity and pr ... sentation-the originalil)' and rcgional emphasis of ilS Ingredients and, of course, fbl"Our5and tastc.1 lowel·cr, the ke)'(Onlponent in scoring;] winner is Ihe "'a)' in ,,·hich the dish inh,'T"Jcts ll'Ith the pair.:d Fetza wine.

The nod Ihis )"ear ,,'.:nt to GoMfish Pacifi( I-.:itch ... n sous-(hef TOI11 Lee, who craft.:d pan-seared ll'ild s.;llmoll topped I,'ith teasl11oh'd lapanese s(allop sashimi. wilh �moke{1 II:I)nlOn c\l�t:lrd and h;nl� of gingl'rmarinat.:d t\sian pear co(onul reduclion.

The <:ompk)[ range of IOC;llll' sourccd Ingredients was no accident:

"Wc trl' 10 use local and sustainab!c pr<>ducts from her.: in Be as mu(h as possible,M sa)'s I.cc {who aclually filled in at Ihe lasl minute for (')[ccutil·c chcf William l'sc, whoconcein'd tlK' dish).

Ther.:'s a fair dcgrce of prepar.llion bchind this plate, as Le ... e)[plains.

�The wild S-:llmon is marillated in SO)' and jalapetio for aboui a da)'. MWe then jusi scar Ihal briefly 10 medium r.lre.M

As for Ihe scallop, "An)"one can scar a scallop and an)"one Can make sashil1li,M sars chef l.ee, who adds Ihnl the Goldfish team ,,'.:nl looking for a II.'S5 obl'ious approllCh to make their dish sl:1IId out.

MWe decided I(J use noo1\;\1 smoking lechniques Ol·cr ,,·ood. But then lI"e infused

the scallop with jasmine Ica and cok! smoked il tll'ice, bcforc sliccd it paper thin and placing it fanncd under the salmon.�

The other crucial component to the platl.' is the (OCorlUt redu(tion-compriscd of coconut l1lilk with lemon grass, ginger, star-anise and a little gadic, COll1bined alld rcduced to about onl.' h�lf of ilS \·olull1e, then str.lînl.'d, 10 achiel"e Ihe right lhickness and (onsîsteI1CY, sa)'s the chef.

"This wa)', 1 think the flal"ours bccol11': much mOTe apparenl:' he sa)'s.

Ol'erall, smoking brings out the sweetness of Ihe 5(allop-whi(h made S':lIse, espt'Cîall)' collsidering thl.' more off-dry style of the (icwurl.lraminCT. he sllggc�K

ChdLce S:1)'S this slyle offO\XI is a perrecl reflectiol1 of wh:lt's transpîred 10 build such a divcrse food scene in VallCOU\·er ol·er the past few )'ears.

B.orn in Tai\,·an and raisc.-d in Van(OuI·er, Let' has tr.lincd e)[tensil"Cl)' in Ne'" York, lIlonlpelier and London (I,'here he I,·orked for Gordon Ramsay-an e)[pcricn(e he wouldn't ha\"(' tradcd for the ,,'Orld. I\nd would repcal again in a flash!). Those tral-ds prol-cd il1\':Iluable but now, back in VanWUI"Cr, Ihe chef sars his inspir.ltion wmes from blending the cuisine of his Chinesc herîtage with the use of local Ingredients as mu(h as possible.

'·Val1COUI·er îs 50 diverse. El'cr)"tll1e lms such great, ad\"enturcsome p:llales. People arc relldy 10 Iry all)'lhÎng," he sa)'s. "The diner is much more progressive here; wc C<III put li range of traditionnl Asian

flavours into our food and the weSlern palate appreciati�s it.�

As for the winnîng dish, which wowcd the panel, is Ihere an)' olle ingredienl that makcs the wine sing, in particular?

�Unqueslionably. it's the scallop,� he sars, sUSl;Csting thal salmon has maybc bcwme just a littlc bit passt.

'·The te)[tural contrast bel,,"een lhe warm salmon and Ihe (old, smoky flal"ours, and Ihe umami of the scallop arc what really work with the wine,M sa)'s Lee.

And wc agree. This dish, espe,iall)' wilh its hint of spicc from the jalapello, W;JS a siam dunk for the off dr)', gentl)' spic)' Gew Il rzl ra 111 i 11er.

As filr as choosing which winc ll'ilh whkh 10 work, was the Gt'wurl.traminer. a nalural (hoiee?

"'1 pick the wines 1 .. njo)' drinking," sars Ihe (hef.

"And Ihis Gewurl.lraminer-asidl.' from going 50 weil with Ihe plale-is what 1101"C lo drink.�

FETZER VINEYARDS

fetzer.com wr MAllE OUR WlN( RESPONSlSlY.

Plu,S{ rNJO"I' Il RESPONSISLY.

[ETIER tS A RE(;ISHREO TRADEMARK.

FEATURES

TAS TE, TO GO 21 This drcsscd-up approach \0 lakcOli1. lI"ilh hOlllcll1adc louches and l1Crfec! wÎne pairing.

alIolI's C'"CTyane the luxury of sponlanCOIiS cnlcrlaining.

By Kasey Wilson

MENUS,

SUPERMARKET PICK-UP

CHINESE

THAl

INDIAN

MEXICAN

22 24 26 28 30

BARBECUE PULLED PORK

GREEK

PIZZA

PAIRING GUIDELINES

32 34 36

38

MAY WE SEE THE WINE LIST, PLEASE? 43 \\'hcn the amhiancc and the food arc

righl. the perreC! cI'cning rl'SIS on Ihe

\\'inc list, Our \l'rileTs sharc SOlllt' of IIwir

picks for Canada's llesl restaurant \I;ne lislS.

Takc the gucsswork oui of pairing wines By Anthony Gismondi, DJ Kearney, Il;lh c .. rry-out cuisine. Gurvinder Bhalia, Tom Firth, Ben Mac:Phee

Sigurdson, David lawrason, Steve Thurlow, By Anthony Gismondi John Szabo, Bill Zacharkiw and Craig Pinhey

YOUR IN-HOUSE WINE LIST 40 Stock up \\'ilh saille uf thest bOllk's and

ncl't', he III 11 loss for takcolll pairing.

By Anthony Gismondi

DEPARTMENTS EDITORIAL NOTE 10

The farc ÙOt.'$'Ù hJ\'c lu Ile r:.oncy 10 be \\onl1 cekbratilll/..

EARTH NOTES 12 TIll' "ine "odJ gocs grCl'll. This 1110mh. prof,lin,ll, CHIl .. da·s f'r$t LEED-ccrtill(.'{1 "iner).

rc<.:ycling corks ,lrulthe philosophy htohinJ bioclynilmics.

HOT PICK$ 15 1\ kil" the mOSI uf the fm,,1 d"Y5 of SU1111llcr

"ilh thest: l'alul'"p';ccd rcds and "hiles.

DI$TILLED A hlllulC 10 rum. the prcfcrll'd liquor of sailors 31lJ connoisseurs, ali�('.

16

CANADIAN CONTENT 18 An" Sp.;:rlinj( and PO:lcr G,lrllblc ;lrc the hardcSI""orl..in,ll, couple ;" Canada"s "in(' ;mlustry.

BUYER'S GUIDE Ilundrcds ot Il inc rCl'iell'> from around the "'orld.

BUYING THE LABEL

55

64 The" i,1l'S of Nonhcrn liai)' Orr(·, up a boltl and di'crse r;11l,ll,l' of sl}lcs.

FINAL BLEND 66 The nn! cI'olution in '\Î.1<' marketing is Ictlin,ll, conSlIlncrs conn .. : ct "ith "inCll1alns dircctl). ull in 10 minutes or !css.

By Anthony G,smondi

ON THE WEB More of Canada's best restaurant wine lists.

Become a fan of Wine Access on Facebook. Visit facebook.com/wineaccessmagaZine.

Get your dail,. wine news and tasting notes. Follow us@wineaccessmag

wineaccess.CI _ N° 9

EDITORIAL NOTE

Eat, Drink and Be Merry

S t'ck ing the peTree! winc and food pairing is 31w3)'s an clusÎI'c

cX<'rcisc. but \l'hen l'Oll gel il

righl. caeh is a cclcbrntion

of th e ot her. "las. 1 ike must

At \ Vine Acccss, wc lno\\' the mag ic of \\'inc

pairing is rCI'calcd Il hen the righl lI"ine :md the

Ti!o\hl food [um an ordinal)' mcal into il dining

t'I'ent. The food Jucsn't han� 10 be fane)'. and

il certainl}' docs!ù ha\1' to be scratch-horne-consurncrs. r rarcl)' put much thou glu imo cookcd. Just the lime spcm lhinking about

pairing what 1 Il'OU Id dcscribc as goud wi n c pr�'scntation and Ilairing makes us slow clown

\l'ith takcout. I n fael. unlcss 1 am scann in)(. and apprccialc Ihc cxpcricncl'. \\'c don'[ have 10 ravcnous, through l'ar ious mentis. or the ITea! lakCout likc fast food - IH' shou ld takc in

lhought of co oki ng after a long da)' scnds the nm·Ollrs. enjoy the food. e njo )' the wine and

ml.' hl.'adin� for pick .u p on the way home. apprecime our dining companions.

rarel)' t hink abo ut takeout at ail. And yel. This issue is a celebration of food and wi ne .

1 gre\\' Uil in a hOllle where famil)' dinners. eithe r when dining at home or \l'lien Denerlt-more often thm not. lefl a trail of aillmi nUIll ting fTOIll the thoughtf ul ness and pre se ntation

foil and St yrofoam containers st rC\I'n across of sommeliers and chefs whcn eating o ut .

the counters. Saille of m)' fa\'ouritc meals Each mcal is an oPIXJr(unit)' for plcasurc_ so hal'c bccn takcout slmred in a magnificcnt

sprcad on the d ining room table - \\"o n

Io n soup. plal l crs of slw\I'arma. mOll ss;lka.

barbecue r ibs.

go; cm and cnjo)'. Abby Miller

Managing editor

[email protected]

CONTRIBUTORS

KA$EY WILSON is an award-winning food and travel writer and broadcaster. She is food editor of Wine Access magazine and editor of Sest Places Vancouver. Her articles have appeared in National Geographie, Bon Appétit and Gastronomica. She is the author of eight non-lidion boob and a member of the Society 01 American Travel W,iter� and the Association of Food Joumalists. Along with Anthony Gismondi, she h asts The Best of Food and Wine, a weekly radio show where they talk lood and wine with many 01 the industry's top players. Kasey is an online contributor ta Condé Nast's concierge com and gayot.com

GURVINDER BHATIA left a career practicing law to pursue his passion (sorne might say obsession) for wine and food. He is the wine columnist lor CBC Radio Edmonton, contributing editor for Tidings and the owner 01 Vinomania wine boutique_ His travels. seeking wines with a sense of place. and as an international wine judge, are simply an excuse for him to eat and drink his way around the world. He loves bourbon, tequila and wines so good that the only description warranted is, "Wow!"

N' 10 - W; ... Acce .. ALlGISEP 10

TOM FI RTH started in the industry back in 1996 when he began working in wine retail. These days he is the Events and Promotions Manager for WineAccess. as weil as a Irequent contributor ta Calgary's City Pa/ale magazine and a past contributOf to the Wine Access Canadian Wine Annual. He is a member of t he Wine Access National Tasting Panel and writes the "No Time for Bad Wine" blog lOf the magazine.

WIN CCESS Editor-in-Chief Anthony G osmondi

Man.ging Editor Abby M,11er

Editori.1 As.ist.nt CI."" B,dd .. combe

Web Edito. Alhson McNeely

Food Editor I<a ... y W, lson Cont,ibul ing EditG' Steve Thurlow

Editorial tnlern Kan" Nybo

Creative Di,ector Anders Knud.en

Art Director Te,e •• Jofu15!on

Production Manager Mike Malovlch

Production Coordinato. XiI.;e. Laf'r.irie

Proclre.der Ale. Fr •• er_Harri son

lasting Panel Anthony Gosmondi, David lawr.,on, Stuart lobe. 5te ..... Thurlow. John S.abo, DJ K ... mey. Craig P,nhey. Sen MacPheeSigurdson, Bill Zoch."iw. Jeff Dav .. , Tom F"th

Conlribulor. GUnlinder eh.'i •. Da" Ounn. Slev,," Elphick, Tom Forth. DJ Kearney. Pi .. " .. Lamoelle, David Law ••• on. Joy Lee, Ben MacPhee-S,gurdson, Karin Nybo. Craig P;nhey, John Schreine" Je,ed Sych, John 5zabo. St""" Thurlow. Stu�rt Tobe. B,II Zotharkiw

Publi.�er Gary Dav'es

National Accoynl Keiron Gallagher, De .. e hecutive. MacDougall, Melissa Bealon.

Lindy Neus,aed,er

For .dverti.ing inquiries: adveruSingOwineatce ••. ca

Events & Promotion. Tom Fi nh Manager tfirth Oredpointmedia_ta

Tra/fjc Coordinator Andrea Hendry

Circulation & DislribYlion Rob Kel ly Manager

Subscriber Services Lauren. Pollock Managar lpoliockOredpointmedi�.t�

Printing Transcontinental - LGM G<aphics

w. ... Acceu maguine i. i>Ybt;she<j .;>< t,,,,,,s. yea< by ReciPo,"t Me<j,� Group tne. CopYright 2010 by RedPo'"l Med .. Group Inc. No PO'l ol th;s public.tion m.y be 'eprodu<ed withoullhe e>press wro1ten consenl oIthe po.ob t;she'

Subscription. Subse';pl''''''' $35 plus GST lor one yeor in Canada; S40 fo, .,.,e 1"'6' ;" ll,� U"iI�d SL6'�>. SuL",-,il.ott ""Ii,,� ... "'�"'-��,,.�. For subSCfiption inquirie •. contact IpolloàOredpOin tmed; •. co.

AugusllSeptember Volume 12. Number 5 2010 Published July 31, 2010

Publication. Mail Agreement: 40030911

Regi.t'ation: PAPI10868

We acknowledge the financial support 01 the Government olCanada lhrough Ihe Publication Anistance Prog'am (PAP) �nd the Canada Magaline Fund to wards Our mai l ing and editori.1 cos".

Return und.liverable C anadi .. n add, ..... tc:

E-mail:

ReciPoint Media Group Inc. 1t0S, 1210- 20 Ave SE Calgary, Albert� T2G lMS ,nfoC,edpo,ntmedia.ca

President and C�.irm.n Don Graves

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Vice Pre.idenl, Sale. and Marketing Ka,en Hounjet

il Canada il

EARTH NOTES

Stratus takes the LEED T

he global winc indus!!")' is bcco01ing in

crc:lsingly cOl'ironmcnlall)' coosc;ous. (l,lao)' winc producers' cummilnwnl lO

[hese green I)rinciples and pracliccs c)."!cnd

IxTond Ihe boule inlo Ihe "incr;es [hem

seh-cs. Form and acsthctics arc incrcasingly taking a hack scal 10 function in cnsuring Ihat

facilitics hal'e as linlc cOl'ironmcnlal impact as possihle. And.jus! ns produccrs can hill'C

thcir wincs cenifie..:! as organic or biooynamic.

Canndian \\'Încrics arc sccking certification for

the Il'inery structures thcmsekes. Leadership in Encrgy and Em"ironrncntnl

Design . or LEED. is il green building rating system Ihat is North t\mcrican in origin and

is no\\' bccoming rccognizcd worldwidc. It is a suite of swndards for the cnvironmentally sustninab le design . construction and opera

tion of bui ldings and neighbourhoods. And. in

2005. StralUs Winely in j\liag�ra. Ontario. Il'as

the nr.;t building in Canada to rcccive LEED

certification from the Can:lda Green BUilding

Council and the first winery in the 1I"0rid 10

he so reeugni/.cd. Stratus' 20.12S-s\]uare-foot faci lit)' is si lwr-ccnified. ",hich represents a savings of -12 percent in ol'eralf cnergy.-I9

I>creent in indoor Ilater lise and f 5 percent in mil' m:l(erials.

The Ilinel)' buildings. designed by Ni:lgara

archileCi Les Andrew. use geu-c:\;change lechno lugy for heating and couling and II"cre cunslrucICd lI"ilh a high pcrcentagc of

recycled materials. The mechanical. clectrical

and plumbing systems arc ail resource- and

encrgy-efficienl. Therc is a comprchensil'e wnSle mnnngcment progralll nnd n Inndscnpe pbn Ihat is organic and bJsed on indigenous and adaptil'e gmsscs and plants.

Stratus \l'as thc fir.;l. but is hns nOI bcen

the laSI. Th(, Okanasan Valfey's T"ntafLl� Vineynrds \\"ns Ihe btesl produccr 10 0l>cn n LEED-ccnificd winel)' this pasi I\ lay. This

sUllllllcr l'isitors Il'illl>c nble to fully npprcei

ate Ihe high-tech ne\\' \l'inel)' \l'hen they enjoy Inslings in the brand-ne\\" 13.000-S(llmre-foot

faeilit)'. (Sret'e Tl!ur/ow)

Anthroposophy is a philosophy, founded by Rudolf Steiner in the early 20th century, that proposes the existence of an accessible spiritual world that is reachable through personal intellectual development. The roots of biodynamic farming lie in a series of lectures on agriculture given by Steiner, describing how a farm is an organism whose health depends on the well-being of its crops, animais and farmer. Steiner suggested nine diHerent fertilizer and compost preparations that are believed to transfer supernatural forces into the soil; these preparations are still used on biodynamic farms today. (Karin Nybo)

N' 12 - W; ... Acce .. ALlGISEP 10

REDUCE, REUSE, REHARVEST Grocery chain Who le Foods has officially launched its cork recycling program, in conjunction with Cork ReHarvest. The program will run in

ail 292 Whole Foods stores across Canada, the United States and the United Kingdom.

Western Pulp will turn corks collected west of the Rocky Mountains into recyclable wine shippers,

while corks from the Midwest will become cork f100r tiles at Yemm & Hart. Corks from the East Coast and the U.K. will go to Jelinek Cork Group, one of the oldest cork manufacturers in North America, for reuse. In arder to keep the program's carbon footprint almost nonexistent, the recycled corks are transported in trucks runn ing on pre-existing delivery routes.

Cork is one of the most sustainable materials in the world. Mediterranean oak trees are harvested every nine to 12 years and live an average of 300 years. (KN)WA

Nil l'"

HOT PICKS FOR LATE SUMMER

LAYERS . . . '

-

BEST BUY 88 PETER LEHMANN 2009 Layers White

Adelaide, Australia Be $17, AB $16, Ma $18

Chalky minerai, pear, peach, floral and apricots come through on this Aussie blend of sémillon. muscadet. gewürztraminer, pinot gris and chardonnay. Medium-bodied and sl ightly off·dry, sorne spice emerges beside the stone fruit and minerai notes on the palate Ina! helps take this wine Irom 9000 to great. (BMS)

LOCAL HEROES

Look fOf perfectly ripened blaà raspberry fruit niceIy integrated with fine herbs, chocolate and spice in tnis stylish merlot. Medium weight. smooth and refined, with light tannin, Wisn il nad JUS! a bit more flavour concentration 10 make il tfuly memorable. Good winemaking here. Bes! 2011 to 2015. (Dl.)

CELLAR DWELLER 90 DE BEAUCASTEL

France

This has an open, meaty, chocolate, peppery nose, with black cherry Jam, garrigue, floral, raspberry and black liquorice aromas. Fresh, dry, supple palate, with light tannins and excellent finesse. Black raspberry, black plum, liquorice, chocolate, peppery, meaty, dried herb. orange peel flavours. Drinkable now, but will Improve wlth a few years in the bottle. (ST)

BARBECUE BUDDY 8 8 EMlllANA 2007 Novas Winemaker's

Selection Chardonnay Viognier Marsanne Valle de Casablanca, Region de Aconcagua, Chile BC$25,ON$19

Spicy, mango, peach, buller, ginger, lees, floral and vanilla aromas. Rich, fat, round, slightly sweet entry, with butter y, honeyed, melon. mango. ginger, vanilla and nuUy lees flavours. The finish is a bit warm, but with fine fruit intensity. (ST)

8 8 INNISKILLIN OKANAGAN 2007 Discovery Series Petit Verdot Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada BC$l)winery

Very peppery, inky, savoury, vanilla, poultry spice, earthy, black cherry aromas. Round, dry, fresh, supple palate. with light tannins. Cassis, black cherry, savoury, vanilla, spicy, floral, coffee, chalky flavours. Good intensity and length. Should improve over the nex! year or 50. (AG)

KILLER VALUE 90 DONA PAULA 2008 Estate Malbec

Lujan de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina BC $22, AS $17. MS $18, ON $18. OC $17, Nl$20 _�_=�

Love the spicy. savoury, vanilla, sage and coffee nose laced with black cherry jam, liquorice and tobacco notes. The palate is round and fre5h, with a rich, lightly tannic palate. lots of chocola!e, vanilla, sage. tobacco, dried herbs, black cherry, plum and orange flavours speckled with poultry spice and fresh fruit. Weil done. (AG;

WEEKEND WARRIOR 88 CHÂTEAU PAUL MAS 2008 Clos

des Mûres Languedoc, France BC $23. ON $23, OC $19

This wine depends on your mood as it hovers on the edge of internationalism - meaning it lacks local flavour. But if you don'! care about that stuff. this is very good, with its deep fruit.

coffee notes and finely sanded tannins. T extbook. (BZ) WA

wineacc ..... ClI _ N° 15

DISTI L LED BY DAN DUNN

Demon Water Today's high-end rums have come a long way from their Caribbean roots

S lal'cson I7th-cclltur)'C:Jribbcan sllgnr planWI iotl� didrù have cas�

lil'es. 50 ît's Ilot surprising the) founJ a I\a) 10 clllil thc pain a bit

ily clislilling ft'rmcntcd molasses (3 bY-I>roduC! of sugar production) into Il hal th<,) callcd ''kill-del'il.'' The carlicst mention. from

a 1651 logbook CntT)'. dcscribcs il as a ·'hot. hdlish and terrible li'lUOT." Il undouhtcdl) was. hUI [ha! didn"[ stop the British Nm') from gctting blottD on the stufr and hllllling Il :lll'ay \\;lh [hem.

B) the 181h ccnlury. funt lIas the Illost popular liquor in the American Colonies.

Il Îlh 1110uSlIncls of diSlillcric� scaltcrcd

;!cross Nell Engbnd's pori 10\\ ilS. Business Il:l.llcd durin)\ the 191h ccnlury. but. after Prohibition. rum nt!JJe !J eorneb!Jd.. in the United St!Jtes and be�an [() ernerge as a pOjlubr spirit in Can!Jda. as Ileli.

�orth Amerita n011 tonsumrs more of il Ihan an)' otherfOnlinenl. bul onl)" in Ihe pasl detadr hdS Ihrrr bœn a slUble of \lidrl)' al'ailable. connoisS('ur-lrl'd ru ms.

Il is high lime 10 salult Iht prtf{·rred hooch

of sailOTS, beach bums and 3nyonc cise lIilh devils 10 kill. \\ilh 11 look al Ihe 100rious Iypes of rum, alon� I lilh >ollle "inncrs in eaeh calep.ory

WHITE RUM Orten ferCffed 10 J.< li�ht Of sikcf fum. 1hi. subtle. SlIeel and dear spiril is Ihe foundation of rnOSI rum-based cocktails. White rulll

is I}pically aged for n shorl limc in uncharrcd oak c;lsks or stain!ess-stecl tanks. This liquor

C0111eS chenp_ but 1 suggeS! you >pend the

e\lm c<lsh for sol11ething such as 1 hl\,ma Club Anrjo Blanto ($20-$30) or Lamb's \\'hilr Hum ($20-$25).

GOLO RUM This talegor} is also sOlllrlimes rrferrrd 10 as amber. Thr rum spends '1 frll years in charrrd

bourbon banrls. \ lhich imparl lhe eponylllous gold colour. \1 hile blunling Ihe spirit's inheren! s"eelncss. Il ha;; a slightly more robusi fhl\oUT Ihan \1 hile rllm and is uscd mosll) for making mi�ed drinks. A �ood onc to Ir} is Bacardi Cold ($20-$25).

N" 16 - Wine Acce .. A.LlGISEP 10

SPICEO RUM A tategorr Ih<lt elllcrged in Ihe mid-20lh

œnlury. spiccd ru ms arc gold TUIl1S Ihal hal'c becn infused Il il h \'arious fla\'ouTS. nlost

cOllllllonl)" (Înnarnon, 1':Inill:l. cmame! :Ind

a l'Hiet)' of fruits. You can tind sorne re:ll dunkers in this aisle, bUI rou're s.1fe in the Iwnds of Sailor Jerry ($25-$30\. the ubi(IUi-

10US Caplain 1\lorgan ($25-$30) or !'ie\\foundlanJ'� Oll'n Sereech ($20-$30).

OARK RUM D!Jrk rum is aged al lea�t Ihree )ears in he!JI

il)' charred 0.1k b!Jrrels anJ carries a comple� flalour pro/ile th:lI can ril1l1 your bCllcr

Il hiske)'s. The extm a�ing mellolls ÎI out and

bring; Ihe s\\'eelness b!Jck. Thoup,h it can be

mi.�e<!. it's best sippeJ nea\. on the rocks or \l'ilh a S(luee/.c of lime. For a IreM, \1)' Ihe

Cru/�1n Single llarre! ($40-$50).

SUPER-AGEO RUM This rdati .... ly nCII calcgory includcs hooch Ihm has bcen in the bJrrcl el'cn lon�cr than dark Tum. usually for tile OT more )'eafS. W brin� nul more flm'our, Thou�h it Gill be produeed f[(lIll a single spirit. more orten dmn nol it is a blend or oldies bUI goodies. J\lount

C:ly's 1703 Gld C:Isk Seleclion ($120-$130)

is a good place to slart. WA

CANADIAN CONT E NT 1 BY JOHN SCHREINER

Coast to Coast Ann Sperling and Peter Gambie have made their mark across Canada's wine scene

An n Spcrling ancl Peler Camble art' the pOiler tng leam of Canadian Il incmal..ing. Ba�('d in Ontario. Iher arc Canadn's prcmicrc hushand-and-\\ifc

lIincmakcrs upcralln): coast tu coaSI: SpcrJing eurrentl) ll'orks for Il incrics in bUlh British Columbia and Ontnrio. and Gambie spi ils his lime hCIII"ccn \,incrics in Ontario

and NOla SCu! ia. \Vith more [han 25 yc.:ns of c\pcricncc

each. the) onlr \\ork Il Îlh clients Il ho silure thcir obsession \\ith Icrrnir-dril"CIl qual-

N" 18 - Wine A.cce .. A,LlGISEP 10

il) \\ incs. "\Vha! is fundamcntal lO c:ll'h uf our [business] dccisiuns in thcsc last 10

years has becn the ability tO Il orl.. Il ith the absollilc best of the proprktors:' Gambie sa>s. "YOll nccd SO!llconc Il ho is drin�n lU makc grcat I\ine." As bath consultants and Il inemakers, the incredibl) ski lied couple take on projeels Il here th!') h�II'e as much faith in Ihe Il inery 0\1 ners as the 011 ners hal'e in Ihem. 'ThM's fund:lmentallO makin� greM Il ine," Gambie �ays abolit their

clients. "\Ve hal'e been gil'en cane bbnche. elll no corners, [and arc told toI pLl�h it as

L hard as yOll wanl."' FOT e\amplc. "hcn 011 neT Daliù Feldberg bOll�hl a I)rodlldn� 55-acre lineyarù for SI ml LIS Vine)'ards in Nia,Q,ara, he allollcd G:lI11ble la uprOOI and repl:lIll 40 acres of il. At the nearby ':imllhbrook Vineyards. IIherc Sperling is direetor of l' ilieul-t ure anù lIinemaki ng , 011 ner I)ill Heùcl(lleier ha� spared no e\pense 10 del-clop a \linery on the leaJing eùge elllironmentall). ail unùer SI)er!ing's lIat{'hful eye,

NO\l, in addilion 10 olher projeets, Ihe

couple han' Ihemscll'es as clients - Il ilh Sperling Vine)ards in B.e. and Ihc launching of Iheir olln high-end mall,,'(' \1 iner) in

t\r!!,enlina's !\lenclola region. Laq fall. Sperling Vincyards, Ihe estate

\l iner) on Ihe Kclollna lincyard Il here Sperlinj.\ gre" up, relcaseù ilS lirsl \\incssplendid aromalie IIhiles and an old lines foch. She is a member of Ihe Casorso fnmil), IIhich plnnted Kclo\\na's lirsl lineyard in 1925. 11er fnlher, Berl Spcrling. has fun Ihe famil)' I-ineyard since 1960 (1110 l'cnrs before she \l'as born). Even lIüh Ihm history. Sperling and Camble arc on a 'luesl 10 make addilional imprOI·emenlS. reeenll) hm'ing Ihe soif analyzed bya French !"iperl.

The yel-to-be-named Iliner) in Argentina, based on sel'en hectares of nmlbce lin{'� purch3seJ in 2008. is "II aboLli further ndlaneing IIlCir skiffs br lIorkin� lIith e'l)ens t here. "It is a euh ure of nd"anccmenl [in Argenlinal as il rclmes \() lIinemaking:'

Gambie says. "The Il inemakin� Inlent is

speetneular," The \liner) currcntl) ha� tll 0 1 intage� in barrel and is planning 10 makI' Ihe lIines mailable in C�nnda upon rclease.

\Vilh aff Iheir demandin.\: North Americ�n prujeels . it ma} St'em OIeTII hclming for 1 hcse tlm \(l add la unchin� 11 lIiner)' 10 tht>ir lis!. hui Sperfing anù Gambie bcfiele Iherc is allla)s more to Icarn, aillays mon' grem lIinc \(l make. "It jusl �il'es LIS Ihe opporlunily 10 do ail the Ihings Ile arc doin.\: here Il ilh 11 differenl grape lariel)."' Gambie saIS. "11 �il'es us a placc to hone our Iheories in Ihe off-seJson. And IheTe is the opportunit) to do an absollllcfy speetileular \line." WA

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THERE IS MORE THAN ONE COLOUR IN A GLASS OF WINE 1

2010 CHILEAN WINE FESTIVAL TOUR loin us this fall for the 2010 Festival Tour in selected Canadian cities. and

discover evervthing that Chilean

wines have ta oHer.

MONTREAL

TORONTO VANCOUVER

WEONESDAY, SEPTEMBER 29 TUES DAY, OCTOBER 5 THURSDAY, OCTOBER 7

For more information on tastings, registration and tickets, visit us at www.winesofchile.ca

\ . -

- - �

WWW.WINESOFCHILE.ORG

. . � .. . .� .

WINES

•

OF CHILE VlI':OS DE CHllE' •

•

TASTE, TO GO This dressed up approach to takeout allows everyone the luxury of spontaneous

entertaining SY KASEY WILSON

PHQTOGRAPHY ev JARED SYCH

FOOD STYLING SV JOY LEE

"Fine cooking" and "delicious" don't have to mean made from scratch. With a !ittle prep time and imagination, you can use takeout food to create in-home meals that meet the highest standards.

The qua lit y and variety of freshly prepared foods and artisan ingredients have improved dramatically in the last decade_ An amalgam of to-go options has been influenced. not only by the restaurant industry, but by local grocers and upscale supermarkets. Restaurant takeout affers an extraordinary palette of international f1avours.

Whether buying for one, for the family, or for entertaining friends. takeout is an easy solution for people whose time is tao tight to plan, shop and cook. A relaxed party can be arranged in a short time by planning a menu based on re-heatable dishes. While the natural inclination may be to open the containers and let everyone fend for themselves, with just a little extra effort, you can transform any meal From ordinary to extraordinary.

w;neacœss.co - N° 21

iASiE.iO GO

Superma rket Pick-Up

MENU Gazpacho • Rotisserie Chicken with Gremo/ara • Roasted

New Potato Sa/ad

S uperrnarkcls ofrer a l'UriCI)' of he:llt h}'. f reshly ma<.le f00<.l5_ i\"�ny upscale markets hirc consultants. hrin).: chefs on siaff an<.l lean 10ll'ar<.l organic prooucts. t\ storc-bouglu tender 111ld crispy rOlisserie chicken righl off Ihe spil is Ihe ultimale fast fOO<.l and. ll'ilh

;\ fbl'ourful garnish. it's special cnough for gucsts. Grcmolala is a c1assic 1t11lian blcnd of g;lrlic. 1>'1fSk')' and citrus l>Ccl. Ir:l<.lilionall)' sen'cd "'ilh osso buco_ It adds a <llIick and lil"Cl)' finish

Sllrinkk-d Ol'er a juic)' c11ickcn. This menu can bc casily dOllblcd or Iripled for a cro\\'d.

HOW TO OROER Order one chicken lor every two guests. depending on the size. The weight of chickens varies Irom about 1 3/4 ta 3 pounds.

TIP: Cali ahead to find out when the chickens are coming out of the aven at your favourite shop and time your stop accordingly.

HDW TD MAKE IT YOUR OWN Gazpacho This chi lied soup is an ideal starter for summer suppers. ladle gazpilcho inlo ice-cold martini glasses or goblets; top with a dollop 01 sour crea m, or thià Greek-style yogurt lor a tangy and lower fat alternative. For a cool presentation, add a large shrimp ta the rim of glass.

Rotisserie Chicken w;th Gremo/ata Using kitchen shears, eut the chickens in hall and arrange them on a warmed platter. Garnish generously with gremolata and serve immediately.

TIP: Ta reheat chickens, preheat oven ta 350°F, Using paper towels, blot the chicken dry and then coat it lightly with olive ail to help crisp the skin. Heat, uncovered, for 25 minutes.

N° 22 · w_ .t«e .. II.UG/SEP 10

Gremo/ata • 4 garlic claves, minced • 1/2 cup chopped Iresh parsley • zest of 2 lemons • zest of 1 orange Combine ail Ingredients and serve alongside the chicken.

Roasted New Potato Sa/ad Most deli counters will have a lew varieties 01 patata salad. If they don't have roasted patata salad, choose the option with a vinaigrette dressing. Put your spin on patata salad by adding 1/2 cup pilted kalamata olives or capers ta taste. Serve at room temperature.

WHEN TD SERVE IT For bath casual and more refined dinners.

WHAT TO SERVE WITH IT Belore dinner, serve a sparkling wine cocktail. Add 1 teaspoon of creme de cassis ta a champagne flute and top with bubble lor a Kir Royale; or 1 teaspoon 01 Cognac ta sparkling wine for a French 75.

WHAT TO DO WITH lEFTDVER5 loss extra chicken into a soup, salad, fajitas, tacos or sandwiches and wraps. Gremolata is delicious mixed with melted butter and served over vegetables.

SUMMER FOOD-TO-GO TIPS

Supermarkets oHer a wide range of fresh and healthy foods-to-go, with many highend food retailers purveying top-shelf items that include organie products in their takeout. Here are sorne things to keep in mind in the groeery store and at home.

• Taste before you buy. Ask for a sample before you decide on a dish.

• Request the outer sliees of pâtés, eheeses or roasted meats be removed.

• Do not serve meats, pâtés, eheeses, salads or vegetable trays iee-eold. Remove from refrigerator about 1/2 hour before serving. Remove cheese two to three hours before serving.

• Have Ingredients paeked separately for green salads and toss with dressing just before serving.

• T oss patato and chicken salads lightly after they are unpacked.

• Pasta salads absorb dressing, so add extra just before serving.

• Soups can be easily stretched to accommodate an extra guest � add milk, cream,

canned tomatoes or chicken or beef broth, depending on the flavour of the soup. To intensify the Aavour of mushroom soup, add sautéed wild mushrooms.

WINE MATCHES TO TRY

• MIGUEL TORRES 2009 Santa Digna Cabernet Sauvignon Rosé, Valle dei Curic6, Chile

• OYSTER BAY 2008 Pinot Noir, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand

TASTE, TO GO

C h i n ese

MENU Lettuce Wraps with Pork • Sauteed Prawns with Sweet and Sour Orange

Sauce • Fortune Cookies

C hinese cooking cuts aCTOSS att bordcrs and cuhures. Asian rcstaumnts cook

ingrcdients thot arc in scason and maintain high standards by preparing food to order on wok-charring /lames. ensur-

ing frcshness and naditionat dishes that travd wdl. Ther arc atmost atwars open for business. even on statutQry hotida)'s. 1\·lan)' Chinese restaurantS arc a famit)' business.

appeating to consumers in this age of indif·

ferenœ and absenlccisrn. Best of ail. Chinese food is excellent l'alue for l'our mone)'

HOW Ta OROER Order one dish per person and one for the table. A Chinese menu can be overwhelming with its myriad of options. If you're ordering for a crowd, you should consider 1 1/2 or double orders of your favourite dishes.

TIP: Ask for extra steamed rice, sauces and chopsticks. Choose vegetables and entrées that are not deep-fried. Request sesame seeds - they're complimentary and finish a dish.

HOW Ta MAKE IT YOUR OWN Lettuce Wraps with Pork Order extra hoisin sauce and use your own lettuce. Even the freshest cups may wilt, so it is best to prepare your own.

Take a head of crisp iceberg or butter lettuce, core removed and leaves separate, and tear into approximately 4-inch cups. Just before guests arrive, arrange lettuce cups and hoisin in a bamboo steamer lid and refrigerate.

Tell your guests to layer with hoisin sauce to taste on top of the lettuce and N" 24 -W"'eAcce»ALlGISEP 10

coyer with approximately 2 tablespoons of pork (there should be enough room to fold the lettuce over the pork). Garnish with chopped roasted peanuts and a wedge of lime.

Sauteed Prawns Order sautéed prawns and serve them with the following sauce on the side.

Sweet and Sour Orange Sauce • 1 cup marmalade • 4 Tbsp. Dijon mustard • 4 Tbsp. rice vinegar Mix ingredients in a small bowl.

$weet and sour sauce can be refrigerated up to 2 weeks after preparing.

Fortune Cookies Dip half of each fortune cookie in melted

WINE MATCHES Ta TRY

• DR. LOOSEN 2008 Dr. L Riesling, Mosel-Saar.Ruwer, Germany

• MELINI CHIANTI 2008 Pian dei Masso, Tuscany, Italy

dark or white chocolate. Let excess chocolate drip back into bowl. Place on wire rack over waxed paper to cool.

WHEN Ta SERVE IT For casual or family dinners with kids especially when lime is short.

HOW TO SERVE IT Remove Chinese dishes from foil containers and place food in different sizes of bamboo steamers lined with a plate or foil. (You can use both the base and the lid.) You can also showcase the takeout in woks. For serving utensils, use tongs.

WHAT Ta SERVE WITH IT Choose a floral jasmine tea in the summer or a robust Iron Buddha in the winter.

TASTE, TO GO

Tha ï

MENU Chicken Satays with Splcy Peanut Sauce • Papaya Sa/ad •

Shrimp Pad Thai

The bold flal'ours dThai street (,ooking - sll'eeL salt),. spic)' and sour - ean ail be

round at your fal'ourite Thai restaurant. l'l'lany of the ke)' Ingredients art· common ones. such as garl ie. hasi!. dried ehil,es. eHantro and so)' sauce. But \l'hen the)"re

tombined with the ('xotit - Iemongrass. !ish saute (nalll pla) :md l:Oconut Illilk - it fesults in onc uf Asian's Illost vibrant cuisines.

Thai restaurants offer a large l'ariel)' of takeout options that trave! weil: soups: red. green

or yelluw cmries: steamed ur fried entrees: rice nuodlcs: salads: and always :m abundante of

ritc. In Thailand. all lhc (Iishes are served al Ihe same lime. and there is lllwnys enough fuod

\0 nccommooate u nc.�pcclcd gucsis.

HOW Ta OROER An ample supply of steamed jasmine rice is always the centrepiece of a Thai mea l, 50 order extra

servings. Add a curry to this menu and serve a mango sorbet for dessert.

TIP: Knives are used rarely, and chopsticks are only used when nood!es are included. Thais eat with a fork and a

dessert-sized spoon. The fork (in your right hand) pushes food onto the spoon, which then goes into your mou th. (The fork never does.)

HOW Ta MAKE IT YOUR OWN Chicken Satays with Spicy Peanut Sauce Serve lightly charred skewers of chicken with your homemade spicy peanut sauce.

Spicy Peanut Sauce • 1/2 cup natural-style creamy

peanut butter • 2 Tbsp. light brown sugar, firmly packed • 1 Tbsp. Thai fish sauce (nam pla) • 1 tsp. chili-garlic sauce • 1/2 cup water N° 26 . W .... Aa:eo.s AUGISEP 10

ln a medium-sized bowl, whisk together ail the Ingredients until smooth.

Refrigerate for up ta 2 days before serving.

Papaya Sa/ad (Som T um Thal) For each four servings, add 1/2 pound of thinly sliced rare beef to the salad, toss gently ;;IIld serve.

Shrimp Pad Thal Sprinkle pad Thai with 2 tablespoons of chopped dry-roasted salted peanuts and

serve with lime wedges.

WH EN Ta SERVE IT For a weekend dinner with a mix of teens and adults - satays please everyone.

HOW Ta SERVE IT Use bright, colourful runners, bamboo placemats and exotic flowers in individu

al glass vases. Place food in earthenware, wooden or coppel' serving pieces.

WHAT Ta SERVE WITH IT Singha beer or Thai iced tea.

WINE MATCHES TO TRY· ...... -..I....----'-I • ST. HALLETI 2008 Poacher's Sémil

lon Sauvignon Blanc, Barossa Valley, South Australia

• THIRTY BENCH 2008 Riesling, Beamsville Bench, Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Ca nada

wineacc ..... ca - N" 27

TASTE, TO GO

I n d ia n MENU

Spicy Vegetable Samosas and Vifs Mint Mango Chutney •

Lamb 8iryani • Raita

Anciem eustoms. traditions and \'aried religions contribute to India hal'ing

one of the ll'orld's most intricatc and

Inbour-intensil'e cuisines. Most Indian restaurant menus mix Northern and Somhern

clements. gil'ing a wider choice to diners. From the North corne elaborate Inyered.

rice dishes, called biryani. rcd-hued tanduori

specialties and flmhreads cuoked in a tanduor - an urn-shaped o\'cn thm can reach I,OOO°F. The South is rcl1ected by spiçicr,

orten steamed foods. plus slow-simmered curries and ricc. Chutneys arc the Indian

version of salsas and arc usually prcparcd

frcsh daily.

HOW TO OROER Choose an appetizer, curry, riee, raita, vegetable, pappadums, naan, pickles and a variety of chutneys. Since curries are prepared mild, medium or hot: be specifie with your arder. Serve a mango lassi for dessert.

TIP: Ask for extra breads, chutney and pickles. You can prepare rice at home or add steamed vegetables to a curry sauce.

HOW TO MAKE IT YOUR OWN

Spicy Vegetable Samosas and Vifs Mint Mango Chutney Order vegetable samosas (these usually come with potatoes and peas) and reheat in a 200°F oven for up ta an hour before serving along with this homemade chutney. This recipe cornes from Vifs Elegant & Inspired Indian Cuisine by Vikram Vij and Meeru Ohalwala (Douglas & Mclntyre, $40).

Vifs Mint Mango Chutney • 6 oz. fresh mint leaves with stems • 1/2 cup cilantro with stems

N° 28 - W .... Aa:eo.s AUGISEP 10

• 1 1/4 cups mango pulp (available at Indian markets) 1/3 cup coconut milk

• 2 Tbsp. white vinegar • 1 1/2 tsp. salt • 1 Tbsp. ground cumin • 1/2 tsp. turmeric • 2 jalapeno peppers, chopped • 1 Tbsp. chopped fresh garlic Wash mi nt and discard stems. Wash dlantro, but do not discard anything

use ail of the dlantro, including stems. In a food processor, combine mint, cilantro, mango pulp, coconut milk, vinegar, salt, cumin, turmeric, jalapeno and garlic. Process until smooth. Transfer to a bowl and refrigerate at least 1 hour.

Makes 6 to 8 servin gs

Lamb Biryani Sprinkle with thinly sliced fried onions,

WINE MATCHES TO TRY

• PERRIN 2008 Côtes du Rhône Rêserve Rouge, Rhône Valley, France

• THE WINERY OF GOOO HOPE 2008

Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, Coastal Region, South Africa

toasted almonds and raisins that have been plumped in hot water.

Raita To each 2 cups of raita, add 1 tomato peeled, cored, seeded and chopped - 2 tablespoons of chopped red onion and 1

tablespoon chopped cilantro.

WHEN TO SERVE IT For casual gatherings, large or smalL

HOW TO SERVE IT Set the table using colourful napkins as placemats, letting them hang slightly over the edge. Serve dishes in copper pots or bowls.

WHAT TO SERVE WITH IT Kingfisher beer or Chai tea.

1 1

TASTE, TO GO

M exican MENU

Tortilla Chips • Enchiladas • Refried Beans • Sorbet in Citrus Shel/s

The flnl·ours of 1\ 1l'.�ico offer so man)' takca\\�ly options. ll'Îth tlassic soups likc sopn de IOnilln or black bean. ,amalcs and sallC}' or spic)' spccialties likc end,il;tdns and

chîcken 1110Ic. 11,(' st';lsoned rÎCc. rcfrÎcd beans and salsas that accol11pany entrées arc also "Cf Y l11;tn;tgeablc sidc dishcs. And don·, forget fresh salsa Il'Îth its confenÎ of colour.

For refresl,ing. l11akc-ahcad. indil'idual dcsst'rts. serY(' sorbet or gelalO in hoIlOlI·L-d-oul citrus

fruit. DOlI'nload SOIllC maritlÇhi music and you han.'" an instant party.

HOW TO OROER For saucy specialties like enchiladas, arder 2 per persan, or, for chicken in mole sauce, arder 1 chicken breast per diner. Ask for extra sauce.

TIP: Tortilla chips are usually home made in Mexican establishments and are not as salt y as commercial varieties, sa arder extra. Order sides of salsas mild, medium or hot - for dipping and ta serve with the entrées. Avoid fried items, like hard-shell tacos, taquitos, chile rellenos and chimichangas, as fried foods are difficult to reheat.

HOW TO MAKE IT YOUR OWN Tortilla Chips Preheat aven to 350°F. Spread tortilla chips in a large, shallow baking pan and bake in the middle of the aven until warm, about 5 minutes.

Serve the tortilla chips alongside bowls of your favourite salsas, guacamole and sour cream.

Refried Beans Sauté spicy Mexican chorizo and add to refried beans.

Sorbet or Ge/ato in Citrus Shells Cut your choice of lemons, limes, oranges or blood oranges in ha If and scoop out the pulp. (You can eut th in slices off the bottom 50 the fruit will sit fiat.) Fill the citrus shells with lemon, lime, orange or tropical sorbets or gelatos. For a deeadent alternative, fill blood oranges with chocolate gelato. Coyer weil and freeze.

Remove From freezer 1 0 minutes before serving.

WHEN TO SERVE IT When entertaining on the fly.

HOW TO SERVE Il Get out your rustie enamelware for enchiladas, plates for main dishes and multicoloured bowls for everything else.

WHAT TO SERVE WITH IT Enchiladas Mexican beer tricked out with hot sauce, Reheat enchilaladas in a colourful baking lime juice and Worcestershire. dish, top with extra sauce and sprinkle with freshly grated mozzarella cheese.

N' lO · Wi<-4 /l,(ce .. .o.IJGISEP 10

WINE MATCHES TO TRY

• YALUMBA 2009 y Series Viognier, Barossa Valley, South Australia

• CASTILLO DE MONSÉRAN 2008

Garnacha, Carinena, Aragon, Spain

TASTE, TOGO

B a rbecu e Pu l l ed Park

MENU Pulled Pork Nachos, Tacos

and Pizza • Co/es/aw • Potato Sa/ad • Baked Beans

S olilhem barbecue. willi ils tender. smoky pulled porI.. miroc-cue Slluce. coleslaw

:md I)(){ato s.1Ind. is perf('C1 tnkoout food. Il's casual. lienrt)' farc th:.t tmwls weil. c:m be easi�' rchealcd and offel'S \'el'Slltilit}'. There's

no I>ctlcr 1111)' for lhe sllOns fan ta Ihm\\' a culinar}' long bomb aoo score m il Gre)' CUI)

or Supcr BOIl I llan)'. Instcad of ordcrinR pullcd porI: sandll icllCS 10 RO. OrUcr the inRrcdicms

scparatcly - rOll can then offcr guests not onl)'

pullcd porI: sandwiches. but nachos. taros and

el'en a pullcd IlOrk pi7.7A1.

HOW TO OROER For every 4 guests,

arder abaut 1 1/2 lbs. of pul led park, 1

cup af barbecue sauce and 4 sides af

coleslaw, patata salad and baked beans.

TIP: Ask to have pulled park wrapped tightly in aluminum foil. Keep warm in a 200"F aven.

HOW TO MAKE IT YOUR OWN Pulled Pork racos For these you will need corn tortillas, pulled park, c:oleslaw, fresh cilantro sprigs and store-bought salsa. Twenty la 30 minutes before serving, heat aven to 35O"F. Lay a damp paper towel on a 24-by-18-inch piece

of heavy-duty foil. Warm tortillas in groups

of 8; set 2 stacks of 4 tortillas each side by side on the paper towel. Caver with another

damp paper towel and seal foil completely. Bake unti l steamy. Pull tortillas from aven as needed and let guests fill them with pulled

park, coleslaw, cilantro sprigs and salsa. For

extra flavour, add guacamole, sour cream

and fresh lime wedges.

N" 32 . w .... ilccet.IAUOISEP 10

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.- �- ., / . ) : . � .

"", .... !" ' .... . ...

'. ... . , . � .. --".

�I

-

Memphis Blues Pul/ed Pork Nachos This recipes c:omes from Memphis Blues Barbeque Hause by George Siu and Park Heffelfinger ('vVhitecap, $30). • 329 9 c:om chips • 2 I.:Up shr�JJ�J MUrlter�y JiKk dn:H:!�e

or mouarella • 1 lb. pulled pork, warmed • 3/4 cup barbecue sauce • 1 cup chopped tomatoes • 1/2 cup chopped dlantro

and/or green anions Preheat aven to 4(X)"F. Arrange chips in a drde on a baking pan. Sprinkle with cheese and bake until cheese melts, about 7 minutes. Siide chips onto a plate and cover with the pul led park. Smother with

barbecue sauce and sprink)e with chopped tomatoes, dlantro and green anions.

Makes 2 servings.

Pulled Pork Pizza Order a half-baked 14-inch thin crust piz2a from your favourite pizzeria and place on

MATCHES TO TRY

• lONG,UE-D(lG 2008 Grenache Syrah, Languedoc, France

• lOUIS BERNARD 2008 Côtes du Rhône Villages, Rhône Valley, France

a baking pan. Spread 1 cup af barbecue sauce evenly over the crust, leaving about 3/4-inch dough uncovered araund the edge and add 2 cups of pulled pork on top of sauce. Tap with thinly sliced anions and chopped red bell peppers_ Sprinkle 2 çups of grated mozzarella cheese evenly over the top. Sake in a preheated 475"F oven

for about 8 to 10 minutes. Cut into wedges and serve.

WHEN TO SERVE Il For any casual event - Grey Cup or Stanley

Cup party, pre-or�past·hockey games or a family reunion.

HOW TO VArr1 IT Instead of pulled pork, you can make ail of these dishes with pulled chicken, using store-bought rotisserie chiçken and your

favourite barbecue sauce.

WHAT TO SERVE WITH IT Root beer, iced tea and lemonade.

Nestled in the vineyards and mountains 01 the Come visit us and discover w11y there has

Okanagan. Therapy Vineyards and Guesthouse been an O'Ierwhelming agreement that

lives in perlee! harmony with beautiful west everyone needs a liUle Therapy"'.

facing views of lake Okanagan.

Relax in the tranquil beauty 01 Therapy

Guesthouse and absorb the daily activities of

an award winning winery. Enjoy the taste of

premium quality wines on the patios or hot tub

with family and friends.

TH E RAPY'" VINEYAROS & GUESTHOUSE

940 lower Debeck Rd., Naramata, BC VOH 1NO

Telephone: 250496-5217

www.therapyvineyards.com

TASTE, TO GO

,-

G reek MENU

Sautéed Shrimp and Ouzo • Greek Sa/ad with Garlicky Pita Toasts •

Lamb Souv/aki with Rice, Roasted Potatoes and Tzatziki

The Creek philu>uphy uf food is uneum

plicntcd: make it fresh and fragrant and

serI'C generuus portiuns with gustu.

Thruughuut Greece. lamb suul'Iaki. gril led and

threaded on skewcrs, is ns eummun as hur�ers

are in Nurth America. ÛUlÜ. used to infuse the

shrimp appdizer. is a tic�' anisc-flal'uured li

queur made from erushed gmpe skins and l'un

gent aromatics. Ifs fun lU sip ll'ith appetizers as

an apcritif. neal. or ll'ith 11 splash of Il'aler.

Creek food rcpreSl'nts more thnn juS! plates

uf food: it's ahout friends and conl'Cl'lations and

simplc. flllluurfui cooking.

HOW TO OROER Three entrées with

sides easily feed 4 diners. Extra skewers

of meat are also available at reasonable

priees for carnivores. Ask for extra pita

bread and sides of tzatziki,

HOW TO MAKE IT YOUR OWN

Sautéed Shrimp and Ouzo • 1/2 cup ouzo

• 1/4 cup lemon juice

• 1/2 tsp. cayenne pepper

• 1 1/2 lbs. large shrimp (13 to 1 5 per

pound), peeled and deveined,

leaving tails intact • 4 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil

Combine ouzo, lemon juice and cayenne

in a large baking dish. Add shrimp and

gently toss. Caver and refrigerate for 1 1/2

to 2 hours. Pat the shrimp dry with paper

towels. In a large skitlet, heat 2 Tbsp. olive

oil over medium heat. Add half the shrimp

and cook over high heat until golden and

just cooked, about 2 minutes. Season with

salt and pepper and transfer to a warmed platter. Repeat with remaining oil and

shrimp. Serve warm.

Makes 6 servings.

N° 34 -W .... Aa:eo.sAl.IGISEP 10

__ ...... '--_-..Ie • • ..:r .. ; ..

Greek Sa/ad Add extra oil ta the salad and squeeze

1/2 lemon over top before tossing. Top

with cubes of feta cheese and serve with

Garlicky Pita Toasts.

Garlicky Pita Toasts • 2 8-inch pocketless pita breads

• 2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive. plus extra

for brushing • 1 large garlic clove, eut in half

Preheat aven ta 400°F. 8rush pita

breads on bath sides with olive ail and

bake on the aven rack until golden,

about 8 minutes. Rub the toasts on

bath sides with the garlic and let cool.

Cut each pita into 6 wedges and serve

with Greek salad.

Makes 12 pieces.

• BûLLlNI 2008 Pinot Grigio, Trentino-Alto Adige, Italy

• TRIVENTO 2007 Amado Sur

Malbec Bonarda Syrah, Mendoza,

Argentina

•

"ar. ••• • ... __ .--;;Jo[ . _�. . ..

Lamb Souv/aki, Rice, Roasted Potatoes, Tzatziki Rethread lamb souvlaki onto wooden

skewers and serve on a platter with limes

and lemons. Add 1 cup green peas ta the rice. Squeeze some lemon over tzatziki.

WHEN Ta SERVE IT

For a casual Saturday night supper.

WHAT TO SERVE WITH IT

Sip ouzo with the appetizer.

WHAT TO DO WITH LEFTOVERS

Reheat the lamb. rice and potatoes, or

serve at room temperature and toss into

salad for lunch the next day.

O u r s u c c e s s * •

I S y o u r s • t o e n j o y .

*

L O C A L . N A T I O N A L . G L O B A L .

� , • 1

I I O P E FA M I LY W I N E S SIN or " 18

P a s o R O b l e s , C A L I F O R N I A

w w w . h o p e f a m i l y w i n e s . c o m

iASiE,iO GO

Pizza MENU

Barbecued Pizzas • Grilled Hearts of Romaine with Caesar Dressing • Frozen Ice Cream Pie

AbarbCCUCU pil.l.lI party for fricnds and famit)' crcatcs its o\\'n fun, with Ihc preparation of Ihe mc,ll out(loors bccol1ling a part of the eXf>Crience. Pi�.7,a. ortlcred h�llf·bakcd. ;lIld thcll gril lcd on the barbeclle. is dcliciOllS and a grcnt altcrnntil'C whcll it's 100 hot

10 lUrn on the Ol'cn. Thc intcnse heat of a harbccuc produccs a crisp. liglnl)' smokcu crust. \Vith a lillic imaginmion. [lnd somc unusual. rCI simple toppings. the humblc pil.w will satisfy Cl'cn Ihe mOSI criticai llaiate.

HOW TO OROER Order small or medium thin-crusted pizzas partially baked and uncut from your faveurite pizzeria. Tell them to go easy on the cheese and order no toppings.

TIP: Find out who makes the tastiest pizza crust in your area, and don't forget to check out Italian restaurants. Many have wood-nred avens and make their own pizza dough in small batches.

HOW TO MAKE IT YOUR OWN Barbecued Pizzas Remove half-baked piuas from packaging and place on baking sheets. (If you refrigerate pizzas, bring to room temperature before grilling.)

Start adding toppings, but don't load up the piua. Use restraint and keep the

toppings simple, with strong cheeses and lots of herbs or spices. Cover crusts with topping choice and slide from baking sheet onto the grill.

Cover barbecue with lid and cook until topping is hot and pizza bottom is crisp, about 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from barbecue.

To finish pizza, scatter with herbs. Cut into wedges and serve.

Grilled Hearts of Romaine with Caesar Dressing • 8 hearts of romaine, halved lengthwise • 8 slices of crusty peasant bread • Olive oil

N" 36 . Win<t ""'ce .. /l,IJGISEP 10

• 1 cup of your favourite creamy

Caesar dressing • Freshly shaved Parmesan cheese,

preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano Preheat a gas grill to moderately high heat. lightly brush the hearts of romaine wilh olive oil and seasan with salt and pepper. Grill, turning once or twice, until lightly charred, but still crisp, about 3 minutes. lightly brush the bread with olive oil. Grill, turning once, until toasted - about 2 min

utes. Spread half of the Caesar dressing on a platter. Arrange the grilled hearts of romaine on top and brush with the remaining dressing. Garnish with Parmesan cheese

and serve the grilled bread alongside. Makes 8 servings.

Frozen lce Cream Pie Purchase a frozen ice cream pie and serve with warm chocolate and caramel sauces, topped with toasted walnuts or pecans, roughly chopped.

WH EN TO SERVE Il For a casual party, especially for young people, or as an appetizer.

HOW TO SERVE IT Transfer piuas to cutting boards, sprinkle with fresh herbs and bring to the picnic table. eut with a sharp knife or kitchen

shears and serve.

WHAT TO SERVE WITH IT Iced tea and lemonade.

WINE MATCHES TO TRY

• PASCUAL TOSO 2008 Malbec,

SUGGESTED TOPPINGS:

Cheeses:

Mozzarella, parmesan, Monterey Jack, gorgonzola, gruyêre, fontina, feta, goat cheese

Vegetables: Mushrooms (sliced and lightly sautéed), tomatoes (diced and drained), red on ions (lightly sautéed), asparagus spears (grilled and eut into '-inch lengthsl

Canned products:

Roasted peppers, pesto, artichokes (drained and tossed with olive oil), dams (chopped and drained)

Meats: Bacon (1/2-inch-wide pieces cooked until crisp), spicy Italian sausage (casing removed and browned)

Herbs and spices:

Basil, chives, red pepper flakes, flatleaf parsley

Maipu, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina

• TORMARESCA 2007 Paiara Negroamaro-Cabernet Sauvignon, Apulia, Italy

TASTE, TO GO

Pa i ri n g G u ide l i nes

P icking a \\'i ne 10 enjo)' alongskle lakeoul can be daunling \l'hen you don·1 know Ihe

spe{·ific ingre<lienlS used and are faccd wilh flavourful. orIen complicaled dishes. The ke)' is 10 look al Ihe main fealUre of Ihe <lIsh: is il served in a strong tornato-based

s�lIce? I s i l a dish \\'ilh a lOI of spicc? Don·1 Ir)' 10 pair a wine lI'ilh ,,\'ery clemenl of a dish. bUI ralher find somClhing Ihal complemenls il·s mosl oulslanding fla,·ouf fcalures. Follu"'i ng

Ihese guidcl ines \\' i l l gel Ihe guesswork ouI of \\'ine pairing \\'ilh lakeUIiI. (AH/ho"y Gismom/i (md SIUMt Tobe)

SUPERMARKET PICK-UP Chicken and potato salad scream light and fresh, maybe even alfresco, dining. Rosé is the knockout punch pairing here, but red wine-Iovers can reach for an equally pleasing pinot noir. Both offer good fruit and texture, without being heavy and cloying.

CHINESE The wine choices are varied to accompany somewhat sweet-tinged, lightly salted dishes. A riesling provides the best ove rail balance of fruit and juicy acidity, with a touch of sweetness. For a surprise pairing, try a young sangiovese with the heavier dishes.

THAl Thai is a spicy, rich, flavourful cuisine, often with fish sauce nuances, that requires wine with some fatness and intensity, without being heavy. Fruit y blends of sauvignon blanc and sémillon, or a dry riesling from Australia or Ontario's Niagara Peninsula, would be safe bets.

lND1AN Rich, savoury and spicy curry gravy and the fruitiness in biryani can be harmonized and balanced by spicy, fruity-style whites. Choices here range from gewürztraminer, ehrenfelser, chenin blanc, viognier and albarino. Alternatively, a red with good fruit and acidity, like a young Côtes du Rhône or barbera, will tame the lamb.

N" 38 · W"'eAcce»ALlGISEP 10

MEXICAN Enchiladas often come with a tomato-based sauce that can be spicy, and sometimes a bit tart. The food is not particularly heavy in fat, but it is robust and ca Ils for something fresh, a bit fruit y, a bit spicy and with some richness. Viognier works weil, as do most garnacha labels.

BARBECUE PUlLED PORK Park and the spices used create a $weet, spicy, savoury flavour profile that requires a similar wine style, but with good acidity to prevent the fat content from being heavy. Southern Rhône reds are the match.

GREEK The savoury, fresh flavours in lamb lend themselves to fruit y reds, like syrah or malbec. For a shellfish wine ta complement the ouzo taste and prawns, a bright, fruit y Northern Italian white will do.

PIZZA Tomato sauce gives acidity and the cheeses give ri ch texture and a bit of fat; add a bit of meat, herbs and smoke and you need a more rustic wine, with light tannins, good acidity and bright fruit. Think Argentine mal bec and Southern Italian reds.

DE BORTOLI WINES_-----

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Wine is to be enjoyed with family and friends. A philosophy sh�rcd hy l"CllQ\\1K-d

:\ll�U'"Jian winpmaking r. ... mily. De lkllloli "'lues. 'l1wir llcwest Jahel. DB, brings uJg'>11wr Ihe C'SSI.-11CC of C\1'rything th", is irnpQllant - ""nily, food and lÎicnds_ l.ifc'� ingn>dicllls W OC cnjoyt'<:l, fOll .. '\1;r.

B

fo.""':\.\.\j fOod. fl'i.ty..Q..$ rORt.�\W.

TASTE, TO GO

N" 40 - W .... Acce .. AUGISEP 10

You r I n-House Win e List Make takeout night-pairing easy by keeping some

of these bottles on hand SY A N T H ONY G I S M O N D I

SPARKLING WINE Segura Viudas NN Brut Reserva Cava, Penedes, Catalunya, Spain $15-$17

ROSË La Vieille Ferme 2007 Côtes du Ventoux Rosé, Rhône Valley, France $11-$13

FRESH, PALATE-CLEANSING WHITES Oyster Bay 2008 Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand $15-$20

Santa Carolina 2009 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, Valle de Leyda, Chile $10-$15

Santa Rita 2009 120 Sauvignon Blanc, Valle dei Lontué, Chile $10-$15

Veramonte 2006 Reserva Sauvignon Blanc, Valle de Casablanca, Chile $10-$15

Wente 2008 Morning Fog Chardonnay, livermore, San Francisco Bay, California $15-$22

FRUITY, AROMATIC, CAREFREE WHITES Fazi Battaglia 2007 Titulus Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi Classico, Marche, Italy $14-$19

Penfolds 2008 Thomas Hyland Riesling, South Australia $18-$20

Torres 2007 Vina Esmeralda, Catalunya, Spain $12-$16

Yalumba 2008 Y Series Viognier, Barossa Valley, South Australia $15-$20

LlGHT, FRESH AND INVITING REDS Cono Sur 2008 Pinot Noir, Valle dei Rapel, Region dei Valle Central, Chile $10-$15

Carmen 2007 Carmenere, Region dei Valle Central, Chile $10-$15

Antinori 2007 Santa Cristina Sangiovese, T uscany, Italy $12-$17

RICH, MOUTHFILLING AND WARM REDS Alamos 2008 Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina $13-$17

De Bortoli 2007 dB Petite Sirah, South Eastern Australia $10-$15

Errazuriz 2007 Max Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon, Valle de Aconcagua, Chile $15-$20

Finca Flichman 2008 Misterio Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina $10-$15

Masi 2006 Campofiorin, Verona, Veneto, Italy $17-$22

Porcupine Ridge 2008 Syrah, Coastal Region, South Africa $15-$19

Pampas dei Sur 2008 Reserve Malbec, Mendoza, Argentina $11-$15

MYSTERIOUS RED BLENDS Goats do Roam 2005 Red, South Africa $13-$17

Heartland 2007 Stickleback Red, South Australia $13-$17

La Vieille Ferme 2008 Côtes du Ventoux Rouge, Rhône Valley, France $10-$15

Ogier 2007 Côtes du Rhône Heritages, Rhône Valley, France $14-$19 WA

QUAILS'GATE �l M M Ic 2010

SPOIL YOUR SENSES Pull up a chair. We love having company.

OPEN YEAR ROUND WINE SIIOP & DU) VINES RESTAURANT 1 3303 BOUCHERIE ROAD, WEST KELOWNA 1 1.800.420.9463 1 250.769.4451

The new BUYER'S GUIDE+ feolures exclusive tasting notes tram Canada's mast respected wine experts and weekly tips fram the world of wine.

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•

WE COULD SAY A LOT ABOUT OUR WINES, BUT WE PREFER THAT THE WORLD SPEAKS FOR US.

ERRAZURIZ E S T A T F

SAUVIGNON BLANC f CM lU :1 • • •

E RRAZU RIZ· 1 HE PR[MIER FAMILY

WINE E)l A I I: OF CHilI: www.errazuriz.com PIeose ef1joy responsby

HOW Ta OROER LlKE A WINE WRITER

SY STEVE T H U R LOW

D isccrning dîners orteil choosc pinces to Cal bascd on the chef and his or her

ability 10 source Ihe frcshCSI ingrcdicnls

and ('rcate li menu (hat dislinguishcs their

establishment from others.

If food·liTs! thinking shapcs your restau

rant selection �nd menu choiccs. )'Ou ma)' he surpriscd 10 Icnrn il usuully has liule influence on us winc "'rileTS. Halher th:1n choosc a mcal and 1hen li winc, wc orten look 10 the winc

lisl lirs!: choosc our wincs and thcn \l'ork out

which dishcs arc likcly 10 shinc alongside the

winc. The beuer the winc lisl, the grealer the

anticipation for the cntire cxpcriencc 10 come.

The ncxt lime rou're in a restaurant. experi

ment nnd choosc the ll'ine IiTSt. Takl' l'our lime.

ask quest ions and dccidc II'hal l'OU arc Teally in the mood for. wlla! rcallycatchcs rOllr cyc, and

cll()()se a Jish tha! matches with yom pid:, 'ou

won'! bc disal'l)()in!cd,

w;neaccess,co - N° 43

Birthplace - the Italian Alps Home . . . anywhere you take il !

With grapes grown in the foothills of Italy's Dolomite Alps and

hand-harvested at the peak of flavour, the Cavit Collection boasts a

heritage as extraordinary as its taste.

E L . V AT I ,v, ..

CAYiT" C O L L E C T I O N

CAViT "OT NOII , .. ", ."

flNOT GRIGIO

--- _.

BRITISH COLUMBIA

VANCOUVER

SALT lASTING ROOM Not il hu)!.!' lise but boy. is il \\dl lhoujI;hl

out. \\l1h wcm nHi!'!)" 1 lOI!' the huge selec

tion of sherrics and dessert Il incs. \lhICh.

unlikc must restaurants. is as di\'cr�c as

t he table Il inc section. " flln. bill thnu)!.lufu i mÎ'l: of Old \\'orld and Nell \\'orld \\i1h

;Jlmust CI"Cf) thing - mher than a rCII highcr end ll'incs - b) the )!.Iass or 2-0/. taster.

Ther!' should he a Salt in CI cry cil).

IGrln'imler Hlm/ia) 45 S/ood Ailey, Vancouver, Be,

604-633-1912, salttastingroom.com

VIJ'S This brillinntly cho5cn. lin)' lis1 uffcrs )!.rea!

,"aille \\;lh fi'icd priees ($9 pcr )!.Iass and $36

pcr boule). The selections fil 1he foud lile 11 "I(KC :md the unfuss) ('"tenS;I'c rcser\"!' lis1

bursts Il ilh grc:u ricslinj.\s. griincrs and juiçy

rcds of ImerCSL (D) l\eamqJ

1480 W. llth Ave., Vancouver, BC,

604-736-6664, vijs.ca

BLUE WATER CAFE AND RAW BAR This plCnliful lisl can seem Ol'erll helming.

hUI il is hard 10 10p in lerms of deplh and

brl'adth for pilirin� Ililh se,lfood in ):l'ncra l and Pacific North\\'cst scafood in ]Jmticular.

Ail of the �c1ct'tions 3fC s('rl ed h) Ihe crack

wine Icam. Sipping liv '1l lhe H,tll B<lr is a pleasant paslimc in this 10Iln. IOK)

1095 Hamilton St., Vancouver, BC, 604-

688-8078, b/uewatercafe.net

UVA WINE BAR The caplilatin): lisl. lh�· foud :md the <lmbience arc Il hm UVA is ail ahout. Orcier one of the man) �ems. likc th�' Palmina Sama

Ynel Ncbbiolu. for a thrill. (OKl

900 Seymour St., Vancouver, BC,

604-632-9560, uvawinebar.ca

WHITE ROCK

PEARL ON THE ROCK Hocl. solid cu isine, rocusing on local. coaslal

and specialty charculerie. i., Ihuughtfull)

Iwired lU a beautifull) ehoscn Il;ne lisl that

\Iill lhrili thc nOl ke or colleclor Il ine lowr.

alil.e. \\'dl Ilorlh Ihc Irip oUI oflolln. ([)K)

14955 Marine Dr., White Rock, BC, 604-

542-1064, pearlrestaurant.ca

NELSON

ALL SEASONS CAFË If )'ou arc driving 10 Cal):,IT), Jasper or hc}llnd. don't miss the charminjot and cnmf) Ali ';Cl!Sllns Café in the cultured, if laid

back. to\\ 11 nf Nc1son fnr a grc:!t Briti�h Columbia Ilinc selection, sITong P<lcilic

;\'ortlmes! choices and imcrcsting intcrna

tional picks. i\larkups arc more than fair. ami

lIine is sernxl Il ith care and no pretcnsion

Il hmsocI'('r. (DK) 620 Herridge Ln., Nelson, BC, 250-352-0101,

aJlseasonscafe.com

MAY WE SEE THE WINE LIST, PLEASE?

MAENAM Vancouver, BC The list fenturcs minimal markups on il concise, sal'\') Iisl thal uplifts the ll'ondcrful

Ho)al Thai Cllbine. The refrcshinjot Jmmatlc

\\hite� and fCJthcrllcight rcds art' ail ser'\"(�d

Il ith I.n!)11 Icdgc ,lncl competence. ,DKI 1938 W. 4th Ave., Vancouver,

BC, 604-730-5579

ALBERTA

CALGARY

DIVINO WINE & CHEESE BISTRO t\ contemporary. ec1eclic. poslmo<1ern lisl

ctc1K'd b} sommelier/bu)"er Brad Hoy,t!C'. Tht'

lisl indudes all lhc right dassics alongside

insicler's jotems. [ach style is served in ils prcscribcd cryslal stem lIith /lair '1I1d poetr).

Il's a place whl'rc if the sommelier says,

" truSI me:' }'ou l'an. {jO/III S:lIwl

113 8th Ave. SW (Stephen Avenue Mal/),

Calgary, AB, 403-410-5555, crmr.com/

divino


TEATRO 1\ elassic. uld school. 800-plus bbei lisl" ilh bulh bre<ldlh <Ln{1 deplh in a finc-dininj!. mmosphcre. l'rimaril) fucuscd un French <lnd [Ialian " incs. Ihe \,inc lisi also fealures �e\ernl hilo(h-end \enicals and lois uf older \·inlages. A lo(reat lisi of a)!.ed \Iine Ihal is read) 10 drink. no maller >'our budget. (1à,1l Firth)

200 8th Ave. SE, Calgary, AB,

403-290-1012, teatro-rest.com

RIVER CAFÉ A lar[l.e SOO-plus international boule lisi \\;Ih a serious seleclion ofCanadian \\ines. The

combinat ion of currenl and back , inlalo(cs

ensures /indinlo( n \' inc for a nilo(hl oui Of special occasion is e"sr 10 do. The lalenled ,lnd

kno\\ ledgeabk " ine sUlff is lIilling 10 lend a hand and help )'ou find tlw pcrfeci \\ ine. (TF1

200 Barclay Parade SW, Calgary, AB,

403-261-7670, river-cafê.com

SKY 360 Calgary, AB The nrSI thing you notice \\ hen l'ou open Ihis

clean and concise lisl is the easY-lo-understand \\"3)' the \'ariel) of \\ ines are 3rranged.

Plenl) of fa\'ouriles from around Ihe globe

JOl lhe lis!. aIong \Iilh a respeetablc ,dee

lion of Canadi'ln \I ines_ Heasonahle prices

and a dcœnl {'ross-seclion of by-ihe-glass oplions helI) male for a memorable nigh! al Ihe lOI' of Ihe Cal)!.a!')· TOiler, for lIine no\

ices and more discernin)!. palatcs alike. (fT 101 - 9 Ave. SW, Calgary, AB, 403-532-

N" 46 . W"'e Ace ... AUGISEP 10

BRAVA BISTRO BISTECCA ITALIAN STEAKHOUSE t\ grenl liq Ihal, despilt' ilS bre,-il)', is pJch·d & WINE BAR \,ilh excellenl \,ines. \\'ilh a liule bit of The \\ine lisl is [Ialian-focussed. \Iilh )!.rea!. c\er) Ihing in lerms of SI> le. Ihe lisl is domi- off-Ihe-benlen-Imck choiccs. There is abo naled br inlernalionnl \\ ines selling for less a nice sck'clion of Canadian and 3 smalter-Ih<ln $60 - pcrfeci for an e\cninlo( menl or a inlo( from Ihe resl of Ihe \\urld. An) \\ ine lisi lon)!. luneh. (TF1 \\ith Capeuana Carmij!.nano b) Ihe j!.!ass 723 17th Ave. SW, Calgary, is a thumhs-up in my hooks. f\ bonus is Ihe AB, 403-228-1854, bravabistro.com \\el l-sclectCd \1nnager's Seleclions for 1css

Ihan $-19. (GR)

EDMONTON

WILDFLOWER GRILL A really \\ell-balanced lisl eoncentrminj!. on

quali!}. smnll pnxlueers. I\-ith an emphasis

on Canadian and Californian 1\ incs. The

list also fealures a niee seleelion of bubbles.

inleresting Aussies and cool picks l'rom Bandol, �Iareh(·. Bia; Itlixas. \\'ach<lu, Sicil� and Prioral. 1GB)

10009 107th St. NW, Edmonton, AB,

780-990-1938, wildfloweredmonton.com

2345 11Hh St. NW, Edmonton, AB,

780-439-7335, sorrentinos.com/bistecca.html

SABOR DIVINO The Sabor Di\ino lisl is impressilc!)' lar)!.e. '\ ith il proud showing of Portllgllese I\incs

along I,ilh popular rt·)!.ions. bolh l'\'el' <lnd Old World. The food is authenlically Euro

pean ond \,cli paired \\ith the \\ ine Opt ions. There is somethinj/; here for ail lasics and

ail budgels. induding br-the-glass and small

formais. (TF)

109 10220 103 St. NW, Edmonton, AB,

780-757-1114, sabordivino.ca

SASKATCHEWAN SASKATOON

CALORIES BAKERY & RESTAURANT \Vhen l'our menu changes regularly/season

ally. your I, ine l isi needs 10 eilher change "ilh il. or offer wines thal arc able 10 malch di\'erse fla\'ours. Calories does Ihe lauer.

and fealures man}' e\dus;"e lI ines - some sourœd independentll' from out-of-province.

If )'ou enjo)'ed the "ine \,ilh jour mea L Calories l'an nlso sel 1 l'ou a hOltle aflef\\ards (and for less Ihan wine lisl price). /Bell l'/ilcl'hee-Sigurdsml) 721 Broadway Ave., Saskatoon, 5K, 306-

665-7991, caloriesrestaurants.com

REGINA

THE WILLOW ON WASCANA Loealed neross \Vaseana Lake from the

Saskalehel\an Legislalile building, The

Willoll on Wascana offers fine dioing using 10eall)' sourced ingredienls. The \\ine lisl

is concise. offering brief-but-informal il'e

descriplions of each of the I\\"O down or so

selel'Iions. man)' of Il hieh arc a\'ailable b)' Ihe glass. The reslaurant also offers a Il ine

club membership run by ilS sommelier, Dalid Burke. (HiHS) 3000 Wascana Dr., Regina, SK,

306-585-3663, wi/lowonwascana.ca

360 Restaurant is one of Toronto's finest dining destinations located atop

Toronto's most famous land mark, the eN Tower Offering a spectacular

360-degree view of the city, an inventive, locally sourced, seasonal

menu and an award-winning wine cellar. 360 Restaurant is an inspiring

gastronomie experience in an unsurpassed setting.

To book the ultimate dining experience, cali 416-362-5411 or visit cntower.ca

1.,

Yi Di�A aJNOF

E'MrJN� Complimentary elevation with the purchase of a main course.

HARD TO PRONOUNCE. EASY TO ENJOY.

XINOMAVRO, MOSCHOFILERO, AGIORGITIKO, ASYRTIKO ...

These are not yOUt usual grape varicties and these are not your usual \Vines.

BOlltari continues to win major awards on the international \Vine circuit

for unique \Vines From Greece that arc a pleasure ra discover.

Go ahead and try something ncw!

-

XINOMAVRO MOSCHOFILERO AGIORGITIKO ASYRTIKO From the Tl.'gion of NQOlusa From the region of Mantinia From the region of Nemea From th!' Island of Santorini

MANITOBA

WINNIPEG

BISTRO 7 1/4

South Osbornc's Bistro 7 1/4 i s amon)!. 1he

hest of the arc:!"s man)' cU/l'.)et-happening

cntcrics. [15 Frcnch.inspircd cuisine. Il itll

lm cmphasis on Incal in!(fcJicIlIS. \\orks weil Il ith lhe concise. \\ell·dlOscn and fun \\ine

lis!. An) dOLlbls about pairin)!. \l ine and food

l'an be hundil) put lU Test b) the kllo\\ Icdgcable staff. 1 R\JS ) 725 Osborne St., Winnipeg, MB, 204-777-

2525, alexanderskitcnen.com

PROVENCE BISTRO Ollllcrisolllmclicr 511il\\ 11 Bmmlson has

donc 11 stellar jub of compiling a Iline lis!

thal matches [hl' beau!) uf both l'ron:ncc

Ilistro's farc and the sUTTounding golf course.

The food is distinctly French and the \\in('

lis1 f:!l'ours France. Ital) and t\ustralia. It"s

the dty's fiT$( restaurant to OrreT Iline luck

crs to pmrons. (RJ\lSI 620 Niakawa Rd., Winnipeg, MS, 204-254-

3500, provencebistro.com

TERRACE FIFTY-FIVE FOOD & WIN E

\Vhile the lI"ine list selections span the

p.lo!>c. therc's an cmph<lsis un C:m<ldian/

i\lanito!>a connections that nll1s Ihrough

both Ihe menu �nd the Iline lis\. Thos(' lhat

<lren't direetl� " connccled" hal'c bl'en "hosen

for Ihe \\ incries' commilmenlS 10 suslain

able prnclices. The food is upscale Canadian

comforl food 10 be enjo)"ed in Ihe hedrl of

t\ssiniboinc Park. (BMS)

55 PavWon Cr., Winnipeg, MS,

204-938-7275

ONTARIO

TORONTO

UNION RESTAURANT UNION has a shorl lI"in(· lisl. but Ihcre'�

I"irtuall) nothinj!. 1 \Iouldn't Il:Int to drink

on il. Il hich is as rare as a four-Ieaf do\"er.

Comnmnding the U-�haped bar. sommelier

Christopher Seal)" hand-picks el'er) sinj!.le

I\ine for thi� hip dOlI mml n haunt bnsed on e,-ccptionnl price·\(l-plensure rmio. :md offers them up Il ith a larj!.e dose of cnlhusi

asm. (jS) 72 Ossington Ave., Toronto, ON, 416-850-

0093, union72.c:a

VIA ALLEGRO RISTORANTE Via t\lIegro's dil('rse and \\dl-conslruclcd

\\ine lisl is almost too large - this loft)

tome can be a bit olu\\ hdming \\hen rOll arc unsure of Ilhat l'ou lI"ant. so lakc ad,an

laj!.e of the skilled slaff. Via Allegro nlso has

one of the best selections of scotch I"\"e secn

in 11 restaurant. (TF)

1750 The Queensway W., Toronto, ON,

416-622-6677, viaallegroristorante.c:om


GLOBE BISTRO

1 his lisl f('alures a goud seledion Ihat is

IIdl-priced. lI"ilh man) hard-to-source wincs from ail o\er the \\"oriJ. Glooc Iypicall)" l'ours

more Ihan 20 winl"S by Ihe glass. so il is a

good place 10 go 10 r.'-periment. The lisl is rich with Onlariu selections and the tl'alll

is l'er) knoll"lrdgt·abll'. Il is neighbuurhood

casual. Il ilh Ihe menu chanj!.ing frequently \() lake adl'antilp,c of scasunal ingredienls. (Sre!"e T/mrloH') 124 Danforth Ave., Toronto, ON, 416-466-

2000, g/obebistro.c:om

CRUSH WINE BAR Toronto, ON \\'ine b the fucus here. \\ith man}" well

priced and innOI'ati"e selections and il l'er:> talcnteJ \\"ine team. Ilere Ihey knOl\ Il hich

Il ille necds a carare and il Il ill hc '0 serl'cd

\\"ilholll !lll" necd to 'lsk. The food is l'ren('h

style bblro, hut the ,ttlllosphcrc is Illorc

london. ,incc il i., huuscd in ccnlul")-old

building Ih,lI is rcnolalcd in lufl slyic. sn,! 455 King St. W., Toronto, ON, 416-977-

1234, crushwinebar.com

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.RIDPôtNT redpolntmedla.ca

.... , . u .v> ,.c ----

N" SO W .... _Al.IûIV 10

The Wine is Chi l l ing , , , and we ore exclted ta have vou expenence Hester Creek

the South Okonogon'S otest Wlne country destlnotlon

SltUoted withln -orne of BrITISh Columbi<Ys oldest vlneyords

on the bountlful Golden Mile Bench the Medlterroneon

Influenced grounds. wlnery, and 6-room guest villa evoke on old-world sense of tronquliity thot toke you bock to 0 more simple. unhurned ero. Join us saon!

H E S T E R C R E E K E S T A T E W I N E R Y A N D V I L L A

DON'T MISS

l� va whot w d( W'Ww.hestercreek.com

ANOTHER RELEAS E !

The best way te tind out about Burrowing Owl Estate Winery's new relcases is te jojn the "wine releasc" data base. Simply go ta www.burrowingowlwine.ca and dlckon Sign Up. Enteryourdetaîls and vollàl

You will never have ta miss another release againl

BURRQWlNG OWL e d i a t e W L n e r y

BurrOWlng 0....1 E�tate W,nery Black Sage Raad, Oliver British Columbia Canada For more information plea5e (ail U5 at \ 877 498 0610

or v'�11 us al wwwburrow,ngowlwllle(a

TERRONI Fe,uurinj.\ Iline from ail O\l'f Ital)', "üh Cl' cry sdt'elion \\1.'11 chusen fur l'aluc and quai

il). this list is short on lI ell-kmm n labris

- but )Oll Il ill r;m�ly be disappointcd. The

foud is IIcll-priced and therl' is an amJl.in): srlectiun of piZZ:1S. slIch Ihm yOll \\ill lind

)ollrself rt'Iurn inp. \() t ry somt'thing differenl

eIT'ry lime. You lIil l nel'er be disappoinlcd

since It's ail p,ood. Il ho[esome slLIff Ihm is

wdl prescnlcd . Il does j.\el nois)' ,md It'f) busr. so beSI \{) j.\o carly and moid al pe:lk

limes. 1 STiJl 720 Queen St. W., Toronto, ON,

416·504-0320, terroni,ca

BELLEVILLE

CAPERS BRASSERIE & WINE BAR ,\ trcasure truH� of fascinatin)!. bar)!ain·

prieed. orten-mature internat iona l Il ines

(incilldinj.\ German ricsl inj.\ ,md Burj.;lIndy)

lirsl assl'mblcd b) sommel ier t\ndre\\

Laliberle and no\\ mainlained by Californiatrained Astrid Young. one of the besi fuod

pa irinj.\ palates l',e run across 'illY" h"re, Local Princt' Edward Cou nt y wim's are

front and centre. (Dill'icl LiIllTilSVII)

272 Front St., Belleville, ON,

613+968-7979, capers.ca

KINGSTON

OliVEA Chef Stel Geor):e's third Kin)l,ston caler) is li light-hearled Italian trattoria/bistro. Tht'

lIine list - lirtllall) ai l under $50 ncept

for li smal l reSCrle lisl - has a smatterinli: of illlerestin): rej.\ional ltalians. Prince Edward Coum} standards. illonli:side fun finds like a Colifornin "'nlmsin. DL) 39 Brode St., Kingston, ON,

613-547-5483, olivea.ca

OTTAWA

NAVARRA Chef/o" nef Hené Bodrij.;lIl'l. has can cd out

a nicl1l' fur Ba�que cu isine and t�lf)as in the culinar)' t'mbassy rOll called the Byllard

i\[arkel. Som melier John Gross has aSSl'mbled a IIcll-priccd l isi peppered Il ith unsung Spanish rej.;ional wine� th<1t ne<ldy prol idcs international tUIKhstones. as Il el 1. (DU 93 Murray St., Ottawa, ON, 613+241-5500,

navarrarestaurant.com

PLAY FOOD AND WINE Sommelier Gra)'son 1\!cDiarmid has il

eo\ered: �O lIines b) the jl,lass representinjl, the speetrum of stl les. from Chablis

10 'infande1. Thcrc arc plel1t)' of Canadian and int('rnational selcoions and cnollj.;h odditie� - like mah <lsia frorn i\l ontcrc}

and libbibo from Pantc/leria - to keep ('l'en pdcd drinl..crs pla} injl, happll). and retllrnin)l.

rejl,ularly_ !}SI 1 York St., Ottawa, ON, 613-667-9207,

playfood.ca

THE WELLINGTON GASTROPUB One dOCS1Ù u�uall) lIalk illlo a pub to drink

Il ine. but it's the Ihin)l. to do al the \\'el1injl,ton.

Publican "hnne \\'aldron brinj.\s the concept

tu jl,astro level Il ith an e>,.cellent. frequemlr

ehanjl,injl, menu. lapS dedicated hl mierobrell s

and nearl� 70 lIines, including slleh cool pieb

as B,C. chen in blanl' and t\ustri.m bJ.mfrJn· liseh, served in appropriate stelllllMe, IlSl 1325 Wellington St., Ottawa, ON,

613-729-1315, thewellingrongastropub.com

MAY WE 5EE THE WINE LIST, PLEA5E?

LE CLUB CHASSE ET PECHE Montreal,OC The Il ille list is Urd \\'orld-dominant, but not

old school. \Iith sorne jl,re<lt selcctions outside

the "tradilional" Il ine rCjl,ions of Borde<lu\. BlIr)l.undl and 'l'useam. The stail Jre j.\re,ll if

\Oll nt'Cd il sllv.&e�tion. ,CH)

423 St. Claude, Montreal, QC, 514-861-11 12,

ledubchasseetpeche.com

QUEBEC

STE-MARGUERITE-DU-LAC-MAS50N

BISTRO À CHAMPLAIN \\'here am l j.\oillj.\ if ! e\er \lin the 6/49? This

pl<lcc. \Vith more than 40 p<lj/,es of BlIrj/,lIndy.

includinj.; the biK\:l'5t collectiun of Domaine de lu Homanéc Cunti 1 h�,,·c cVCr Sl'Cn dalin,ll;

back thc 19805. this 1 75-paj.\c wine list is a

wine 10Ier'� dreilm. (Hill Zuc/mrkiw)

75 ch. Masson, 5te-Marguerite-Du-Lac

Masson, QC, 450-228-4988,

bistroachamplain.com

MONTREAL

L'EXPRESS L'Express has been doinj.\ a tine job for 20

years or so nncl Il hether l'ou ;lre lookinp. for li classic Bor<leau\ or a non-su l phi te Beaujolais. this has been. and still is. the refefcnee Il hcn it eomes t<1 afrordable and inlcrestinj/,

Il ine lisls. HZ] 3927 rue Saint-Denis, Montreal, OC,

514-845·5333

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N° 52 - W .... Acce .. AUGISEP 10

Wc don't decide wh;ch grapcs ta grow.

F;"d;ng: d", b"S( {cu;t {rom evecy aere

of v;neyard ;8 th" ult;n'Ble exp,""ss;on

of the w;ncm .. kc;. Art.

Th L Il, , lb

J . LOH� JLOHR.COM

DRESSED UP & READY TO GO! For dirmer ouI. a JOII/ily gOlhrring. home parties or kicking bock of the cabin. TÎnhOrll Cmi< has the willrs for the occasioll. - We are pral/ri ta show you Qur 100% eslate-growl1 variera/ lin/' up ami OIdfield Sl'rÎes will!'s. - At Tinhom Creei< we sustail10bly farm our land and [rratr winrs of meril. Our 150 acres of YÎnryards are lacatrrl or1 two unique and diverse south Okollogan sÎtrs: the Golden Mi/I' and the Black Sage benrh. Our ability ta blend the grapes from these yineyards and capture the best rl!ararleristirs of each sitr sets us apart. - Visit our sPfftarular estatr wirlery in Oliver, BC and experiellce for yourself We will we/come you will! open arms.

NAl1)RALLY SOUTH OKANAGAN www.tinhorn.COIll

JOE BEEF/LiVERPOOL HOUSE

The list is a l11assi, e blackboard. li lied "ith

the hottest and most m ant·garde " innics Ihe Ilorid has 10 oHer. Speeinl attention is

paid to Burgund) and the Loire. rBZ)

2491 Notre Dame W., Montreal, OC, 514-

935-6504, joebeef.ca

KAIZEN

Ycs. it's a SU5hi reSlaurant. and there arc Iluec I>ages of sake thm are soureecl from el'ery" here from Oregon [() Japan. Rut. be)ond Ihal. Ihe 1 5-page Iline lisi is loaded lIith treasure$. The accent i5 on Burgundy.

lIith I11nnr of the rcgions newest star " ine proouccrs, [�tm points for a lenjl;th) list of Chablis. (HZ) 4075 Ste Catherine St. W., Montreal, OC,

514·932-5654,70sushi.com

PETIT ALEP

Ine�pcnsi\e. 1\liddle Eastern-influenced cuisine and pagcs upan pages of IIcll'priccd

and "cli-chosen "ines from mostl) European countr ies. rRZ)

191 Jean-Talon St. E., Montreal, OC,

514-270-9361

PIED DE COCHON

This restaurant is pure )!,Iuttony. bOlh in terms of food and the" ine list The list. IIhich femures l'er) reasonable marku lls and

lots of lariet}'. is not ol'erl) bi)!,_ Hather than

listing n large amount of producers. Pied de

Cochon lil..es to shollease the depth of a sin)!,le "iner). 50 l'ou Il il! often lind Cler)

thing from the cntry le\'cI " ines nll the "ar up to the high end, (HZ) 536 Ave. Duluth E., Montreal, OC,

514-281-11 14, restaurantpieddecohon.ca

NEW BRU NSWICK

SAINT JOHN

HAPPINEZ WINE BAR

hal)pinez i5 a darI.. basement of a tin}'. funky

lIine bar. ollned by Peter Smil. a Dutchman Il ho has lil'ed in Ne\\ Bruns"icl.. for del'adcs. It is uni{lue in the region i n thm happinez uses a Le Verre de Vin preserl<ltion s)'stem so il can oHer 26 IIcll-chosen. fai rl) priccd ($6-$ I l ) " inos b) the glass. Ilith lillie risk of o"idi�ed lIine. (CP)

42 Princess St., Saint John, NB, 503-634-

7340, happinezwinebar.com

NOVA SCOTIA

WOLFVILLE

BLOMIDON I N N

Besides reaturin)!, )!,ood lucnl I l ine a s house

Il ines. sommelier 1\1ichael Laceb} kceps a

huge selection (40 pages worth) of \\ine at his family's gorgeous old Inn. I le has more interesting. aged Il ines than an) other restaurant in the region. induding some NOI'a

Scotia fal'ourites (Iike Ihe Jost 99 1\ 1 ischurinetz) and dassics. including 1\losel rieslings

from the 19iOs and a 19iO Castillo Ygay from t\[arques de t\lariella for $295. (CI') 195 Main St., Wolfville, NS, 902-542-2291,

blomidon.ns.ca

HALIFAX

FIVE FISHERMEN

Don't mistake this c\cellent restaurant for a \Ourist Irap; cuisinc is topnotch and somme

lier I\,'ef) Gal ers Il ine list is terrifil,;. \\ith ,1 solid international selection. plus a decidedl)

local an)!,le. This is the best NOl'a Scotia

Il ine list in the country. lIith the prOI ince's

Il Ines dassified b) suh-region, The list fea

turcs 26 bottles in total, includin)!, 22 bY-lhe

glass offerings at reasonable I)rices. (CI') 1740 Argyle St., Halifax, NS, 902-422-4421,

fivefishermen.com


THE BLUE DOOR Fredericton, NB

This list is Clue and cicl'Cf. but that doesn'I

mean you should underestimate the sCTious

'luality. Therc is a gond reSelye section

<Ind the by-the-gl.lss sele�'tions matdl their tasty Asian l usion cuisine l)l·rfectlr. "ith eaeh eatefl,ory litling the "b d" font used

in the initiais of the re�taurant. sueh ,IS "be cool and darc" for sparkling wines. "b...'

different" for e\otit· " hites ,md "be carcfu!. thcsc Jrc dcliCJtc" for Ii)!)u rcds like pinot noir. Cmig l'illlw)'

100 Regent St., Fredericton, NB, S06-

4SS-2S83, thebluedoor.ca

NEWFOUNDLAND AND LABRADOR

PORTUGALCOVE

ATLANTICA

At1nntit'a's wine lisi has a large selection of Bordeaux. Burgundy and Italian, and a smal!. bUi inleresting. br-the-glass selection (good "hite Burgundy for $9, Cahors for $9). \\'ilh

options including somc "ef)' intereSlin)!, half boules of rcd Burgund); AI1antica dcfinitcl) hns Ihe ll'ine 10 match Iheir descIYtxlly highl)'

louted cuisine. (CP)

38 Beachy Cave Rd., Portugal Cove-St.

Philips, NL, 709-89S-12S1, atthebeachhouse_

calatlantica WA

ON T H E WEB For more web-exclusive restaurant piçks, go to wineaccess.ca.

PLUS Our writers define the modern. post-recession wine list and describe what it is they look for in the perfeç! wine list.

Have a local restaurant you think deserves ta be on the list?

Go ta wineaccess.ca and post yOUT review alongside our writers' picks. YOUT review may be featured in an upcoming Buyer's Guide+ enewsletter

For nearly two decades The Fairmonr Banff Springs has been pairing the world's mûst distinguished \Vine makers with dcliciously acclaimed culinarians. Amuse your palate as you rclish in the lasting finish of wine and food. Wc welcome you to raise your glass with Sandhill, Fess Parker, Feudi di San Gregorio, Di Bortoli, Pierre Sparr and Moët & Chandon, as wc hast and toast a notable Cfa.

For rcgistration or more information, cali (403) 762� 1 7 1 0 or cmail bsh.wincandfood@fairmonLcom

B UYE R'S G U I D E N E W R E L E A S E S

ARGENTINA RED

92 TRAPICHE 2006 Vina Federico Villafaiie Malbec La Consulta, Mendoza, Argentina Be SoIS. ON S34

Big, peppery. liquorice, black cherry, savoury. vanilla nose, W1!h clove, (offee, tobacco and strong floral undercurrents. Rich, full. roond and supple palate. W1lh npe, fine'grall'led tan· l'lins. More coffee, vanilla. black cherry. plum, liquorice, poultry spice. tobacco, minerai and ceda. flaveurs. Good length and finesse, W1th· out being heavy or a!coholic. A stylish effort tna! will furtne. irnprcve wlth 2 to 5 years of boule age. Bravo, Argentina! (ST)

90 BODEGA POESIA 2006 Clos des Andes Mendoza, Argentina oc SN

Brings Argentine malbec to anolne. level. This i$ not Cahors, but not tha! ine)(pensive Argentine malbec, neither. Has those pretty floral notes you get from the best Argentinian wines. but with very dark fruits and that earthy animal note and minerality one associates wlth the malbec Wlnes from t-rance's southwest. Finesse to spare. (BZ)

8 8 ACHAvAL FERRER 2007 Quimera Mendoza, Argentina Be ISO. AB 148, ON 155. ac ISO

You can almost taste the grain of the freshly sewn oak. But, desplte the fact it completely lacks any fun, this is a seriously weil-made wine. The structure is beautiful. with a vibrant acidity and solid tannins, Smoke, vanilla, mocha and some dark, dark fruit. Rather brawny wine. (82)

88 DON MIGUEL GASCON 2008 1884 Reservado Malbec Mendoza, Argentina BC 117

Very spicy. orange. cherry jam. savoury, black olive. roasted mushroom, vanilla and tobacco aromas. with an herbai. meaty note. Very round,

supple, easy palate with smoky. poultry spice. tobacco. olive. green herbs, orange, cherry jam and mocha f1avou�. Fresh. round finish for curren! consumption. Good restaurant wine. (AG)

8 8 MICHEL TORINO 2007 Don David Reserve Malbec Cafayate Valley, Argentina BC S14. AB S17. MB S13, SK S14. OC S16. NB S16. NL 116

Just the right amount of oak and dark frUit on the nase. Perfect acidity, ripe. but wlth tannins that still have some grit. lingering notes of chocolate. spice and cassis in the finish. Not a blemish here. Impeccable, almost tao much 50. which is ilS only fault. (BZ)

88 TRIVENTO 2007 Golden Reserve Malbec Lujân de Cuyo, Northern Region, Mendoza, Argentina BC 523, AB S22. SK S23, MB 123. ON S2S, NS S24, NL S2�5;:;;="1iI

� Round. supple, warm, fresh palate, with light. grainy tannins, cherry jam, pepper, curry, orange, chocolate, vanilla and tobacco f1avours. Good finesse and fruit, wlth some obvious alcohol on the finish. Drink now or over the neKt 18 months. (Sn

ARGENTINA WHITE

86 SANTA JUL1A 2009 Viognier Mendoza, Argentina BCS12,ABS12

A drier version of this grape than the market leader from Chilean producer Cano Sur. but ,t isn't without its charm. More apricot and honey are in play here. with a flatter. perhaps ailier mouth. A perfect mid-week white for chicken or creamy pastas dishes. Fine value. (AG)

88

AUSTRALIA RED

WOLF BlASS 2007 Yellow Label Shiraz South Australia BC S18, AB 119. MB SI7, SK119, ON S16, ac S18, NB S17, NS S17, NL S18

An attractive and robust shiraz. Good lift on the nose, with black cherry. plum. spice and dark chocolate. Good weight and sufficient acidlty, with ripe tannin and lots of fruit follow through on the finish. This is built for grilled meat wlth a marinade and sauce. (JO)

86 PENFOLDS 2008 Koonunga Hill Shi raz Cabernet South Australia SC 117, AB S17. MB S18. SK S18. ON S17, OC S18. NB S19, NS S18, PEI S13. NL S18

Black cherry and blackberry run the show on the nose, with vanilla, plum, cedar and light anise notes, as weil. The black and red berry flavours are just tart enough, while the tannins are soft and the alcohol not too overbearing, (BMS)

88

AUSTRALIA WHITE

GREG NORMAN 2008 Eden Valley Chardonnay Eden Valley, Victoria, Australia ac S23. NB S16

Despite what the back label notes say, this is doser la oaked Chablis than typical Aussie chardonnay, with chalky minerality and green apple/lemon on the nase, as weil as some bultery lactic noIes and a bit of oak. On the palate, it is light-medium-bodied, with a light louch of oak. more lactic character and a crisp. lemony finish. Drink with shellfish or leman chicken. (CP)

winucc,,",ca· N° 55

BUYER'S GUIDE

NATIONAL TASTING PANEL

ANTHONY GISMONDI British Columbia

I �

\ DJ KEARNEY

British Columbia

BEN MACPHEESIGURDSON

Manitoba

, STEVE THURLOW

Ontario

JEFF DAVIS Ontario

CRAIG PINHEY New Brunswiçk

THE RATINGS

STUART TOBE British Columbia

TOM FIRTH Alberta

DAVID LAWRASON Ontario

Ontario

Quebec

Wine Access provides opinion on wine quality with a l00-point scale. Our der.nition 01 quality is: pure and generous expression of the grape variety (or varietles) arx! origin as stilted on the label . We look for purity (absence 01 lauhà complexity, balance and depth. Ail the wines reviewed have been tasted within the last six months, 95 to 100 Outstanding qualities ilnd exciting ta drink. Der.nes grape and origin, with exqui$lle harmony, lascinating complexity and great depth.

90 to 94 Excellent quality, providing great pleasure ta drink. Exemplary e:<pression 01 grape and origin, and offers very fine balance, complexity and depth.

85 to 89 Very good quality and enjoyable ta drink. Expresses its grape and origin weil, ilnd provides good oomplexity, balance and depth.

80 to 84 Good quality and drinkable. Recognizable grape and origln, perhaps masked by minor fiaws. Balanced and basically correct, but simple

Below 80 Has fiaws that compromise character.

N" 56 · W;n.,Ac�AlJG/SEP 10

91

CANADA RED

BURROWING OWl 2007 Cabernet Franc Oliver, Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada BC $33, AB $35

This wine was a knockout at the Wine Access 2009 Canadian Wine Awards, and that is saying something given the numerous quality cab Irancs entered. This has a bit 01 that cheval blanc minerai thing under its ripe, rich, spicy, earthy, blaçk fruit. Just a whiff of local sage pulls the entire wine together. It will keep a decade handily. In facto in 2017 you m ight want to serve it alongside a cheval to see how they both hold up. Impressive, as always. (AG)

91 RAVI N E 2007 Reserve Red St. David's Bench, Ontario, Canada ON $55

From Niagara's newest showpiece winery, this blend of 60 percent cabernet sauvignon, 25 percent merlot and 15 percent cab franc is very lifted, fine and fragrant on the nose, with weil integrated cedar, blackberry, Iresh herbs and background vanilla. Ifs mid-weight, sineWj and stylish, with considerable heat and tension. Quite dry on the finish, with loads of currant fruit, spice and tea-like tannin. Excellent length. Best 2011 to 2015. (Dl)

89 $ANDHILL 2007 $andhill Estate Vineyard Block C8 Meriot Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada Ile $J�

Big. spicy, vanilla, tobacco, collee, savoury, cedar, barnyard, cherry jam, gamey, warm kirsch nose. Round, rich, supple, but grainy, tannins. Clove, savoury, peppery, vani l la cream, coffee, chocolate, black cherry jam, tobacco and cedar aromas. Finish is very warm and oaky, but has ripe fruit and good concentration. Very modern style that needs 2 to 3 years to integrate. (AG)

88 THE OLD THIRD VINEYARD 2008 Pinot Noir Prince Edward County, Ontario, Canada ON $35

The debut vintage fram this small, singleminded producer on Closson Road immediate ly joins the top echelon of County pinots, with refined layering of cran-beet fruit, spice, thyme-like herbs and minerality aromas ail set in a fine, sturdy, if youthfully tannic, frame. Best aged another year or 2. (Dl)

91

CANADA WHITE

ORGANIZED CRIME 2008 Reserve Riesling Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada ON $28

A really stunning auslese-Ievel-ripeness nose, with plenty of sweet Anjou pear, ripe peach, apricot blossom and other exotic jasmine· floral notes. Despite barrel fermentation, there's nary a hint of wood to be found. The palate is dry. full and fleshy, with intense concentration, generous alcohol (14.5 percent) and a long finish. The finish is a linle hot and acid is moderate for riesling, but this opens a whole new style category for Ontario riesling and shows the potential for a new wave sty le that will broaden the consumer spectrum for the variety. (JS)

91 ROSE HALL RUN 2008 Rosehall Vineyard Chardonnay Prince Edward County, Ontario, Canada

From chardonnay specialist Dan Sullivan, this is a stylish, refined and surprisingly deep chardonnay, with a very generaus, rich nose of buttered popcorn, peaches and honey, butterscotch, toast and gentle wood spice. Ifs mid-weight, creamy, a touch sweet, but carries great acid grip and lemony and minerai tension. Some warmth, with excellent focus and outstanding length. (Dl)

91 TAWSE 2008 Sketches Riesling Niagara Peninsula, Ontario, Canada BC $20, ON $18, NB $23

A superb value, and a gold medalist at the Wine Access 2009 Canadian Wine Awardsone of only 2 rieslings in Canada to win this distinction. Re-tasted months later, there is no let up. It shows an intense nose 01 lemon wax, petral, spearmint and pear fruit, with a hint of honey. It's off-dry, very lively, yet fair ly viscous, with acidity that slashes the sweetness. Excellent focus and length. (DU

90 JOIEFARM 2009 Chardonnay Unoaked Okanagan Valley, British Columbia, Canada BC $23, AB $31, OC $27

This is so bright, shiny and juicy that it almost has bling. Unoaked chardonnay should be more than Uwithout wood " Something must replace it, and the best in Canada have not only the crispness of a Chablis (which is usually un-oaked chardonnay), but a certain green apple, lemon, herbai nuance. And, in many examples. an old cheddar aroma, as weiL This wine has ail of that, making it a classic of the genre. It's mid-weight, super fresh and bright, with just a bit of a mean, green streak. Excellent length. (Dl)

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BUYER'S GUIDE

90 TWENTY TWENTY SEVEN 2008 Featherstone Vineyard Riesling Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario, Canada ON $25

New Zealand-raised winemaker Kevin Panagapka assists at Featherstone and bottles his own small batch of riesling from this site first planted in 1990. This has a terrific, complex nase of pineapple, pear, petrol and fresh mint. Ifs full-bodied, solid and well-balanced, with great palate presence. Excellent length, with a focused stony. lemony finish. (DL)

88

CHILE RED

SANTA CAROLINA 2008 Dry Farmed Carignan Valle de Cauquenes, Valle dei Maule, Region dei Valle Centra!, Chi le BC$19

You will love the peppery, black cherry, elove, floral, sage-scented fruit here, flecked with bits of orange and roasted collee bean aromas. Round, supple. easy and dry on the palate, it cames with an agreeable freshness (acid· ityl. Its orange, chalky, black raspberry jam, spicy, tobacco, herbai flavours, with light coffee notes and a savoury finish, flashes the " buy" signal. Simple, but weil-made, with solid fruit expression and intensity. Grown on dry-framed. aO-plus year-old vines. Good value. (AG)

88 VINA CASABLANCA 2007 E l Bosque Winemaker's Choice Carmenère Rapel Valley, Chile MB $20

The jammy blackberry notes on the nase of this carmenère are intense, supported by earth, dark chocolate, ash and light vegetal notes Ifs ripe, viscous and full-bodied. with soft tannin and soft French oak addlng texture to the ripe black fruit flavours. There's a splash of almost-green fruit, sorne earth and some light acidity here. as weil, which adds complexity and would complement a peppery beef dish nicely. (BMS)

88

CH I LE WHITE

CASA LAPOSTOLLE 2009 Casa Sauvignon Blanc Rapel Valley, Chile AB $16. MB $15. PEI $14

Good varietal expression, with clean gooseberry and lime aromas, a bit of grapefruit,

N" 58 · W;n.,Ac�AlJG/SEP 10

minerai and bell pepper notes. Palate is bright, though a bit tart, with apple and grassy flavours. Four months of lees aging creates a creamy texture and a touch 01 nuttiness. (TF)

87 VINA MAIPO 2008 Reserva Chardonnay Casablanca Valley, Chile MB $13

Vanilla, pineapple, mango, peach and some light spice mingle on the nase. Medium-plusbodied, there's a great balance of buttery vanilla from the oak and light acidity. Among it ail, the tropical fruit flavours are ripe, fresh and vibrant. lfs an excellent chardonnay for the price that drinks weil on its own or should pair weil with some grilled salmon. (BMS)

93

FRANCE RED

DOMAINE DE BEAU RENARD 2007 Boisrenard Châteauneufdu-Pape Rouge Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône Valley, France BC $94. AB $89

Smoky. black pepper, garrigue. floral meaty, black cherry jam and liquorîce root aromas. Ripe, rich round and supple, with good acidity, yel elegant and full. Persistent, long flavours of vanilla, orange, cherry jam, black berry confiture. smoke, pepper, meat and spice. Very fine fruit and structure: more acid and tannins than the regular version. (Sn

91 CLOS D E L'ORATOIRE DES PAPES 2007 Châteauneufdu-Pape Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône Valley, France BC $50

Big, black cherry jam, liquorice, peppery, 'picy, c love, Imi,e, garrigue, metlty, bltlck raspberry aromas. Rich, ripe, round, dry, supple palate. with light. grainy tannins. lots of ripe orange, raspberry, black cherry, liquorice. white pepper, minerai, kirsch, chocolate, tobacco and vanilla flavours. long, warm, fruit y and fresh, with good extrac! Enjoyable now, but will improve with 2 ta S years age. Delicious. (AG)

91 DOMAINE DE BEAU RENARD 2007 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône Valley, France BC $55, AB $46

��;-

Black pepper, garrigue, smoky. spicy. black cherry, plum. meaty, orange peel, floral aromas. Full, round, soft, supple and fresh, with good acidity and soft tannin structure. Black

cherry, orange, plum, floral, liquorice, peppery, garrigue flavours. Very fruit y, elegant, long, pure finish, with good acidity and balance. Drink now and for S years. Great for modern consumers. Good value. (ST)

88 CHÂTEAU DU TRIGNON 2005 Sablet Côtes du Rhône Villages, Rhône Valley, France BC $25

Sablet is hardly a household name, but the town sils between the more lamous sites at Gigondas and Rasteau. This wine has a definite spicy, liquorice, minerai note on the nose and palate, with bits 01 pepper and garrigue or dried herbs Aging takes place in a mix of old foudres and concrete vats, which explains the fruit y, earthy finish. Try this with duck or rabbit. (AG)

88 VIEUX CHÂTEAU CHAMPS DE MARS 2006 Côtes de Castillon Bordeaux, France QC$22

Remarkably defined fruit, very ripe, linged with oak, finishing on a note of sweetness. Ripestyled, new Bordeaux that doesn't sacrifice too much tradition, but still for those palates used to a creamier-slyled wine. (BZ)

92

FRANCE WHITE

DOMAINE DE BEAU RENARD 2007 Boisrenard Châteauneufdu-Pape Blanc Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Rhône Valley, France BC $87, AB $88

Ail the diHerent grapes are harvested and barrel-fermented together. Floral, spicy, honey, apricot. vanilla. lemon, minerai, ginger, almond aromas. Rich, ripe, round, elegant and fresh palale, with a light, oily texture - quite delicate. Spicy, minerai, chalky, floral, apricot, ginger, quince, citrus and nully flavours. A tad warm, but very good finesse and balance, long and fresh. Only 1 0 barrels made Drink now or 10 years down the road. (Sn

89 PFAFFENHEIM 2008 Gewürzt raminer Alsace, France BC $20

Nutty, spicy, honey, apricot, lychee and ginger aromas. Fresh. round, slightly fat entry, but good acidity and sugar balance. Baked pear, honey, apricot, lychee, sausage meat and ginger flavours, with a lemon, orange finish. Good intensity and value. (AG)

88 JAFFELIN 2008 Les Chapitres de Jaffelin Bourgogne Aligoté Burgundy, France Be $19, AB $18, 5K $23, ON $15, GC '16, NB$17

Delicate - ifs a word you don't see 100 olten anymore in wine descriptions. Nuance doesn't score much, 1 guess. This is aligoté. Ifs a barebones wine. Il doesn't have explosive perlumes, it doesn't "goo" Iruitiness. There is acidity, a touch 01 lat and just 11 h int 01 flowers and white citrus. Exceptional aperitil wine. Not sure how many people wili like this. 1 do. (BZ)

88 MANCIAT-PONCET 2007 PouillyFuissé La Maréchaude Vielles Vignes Burgundy, France GC$29

White Iruit and minera lit y - like slicing a just ripe pear with a granite knile blade. Has a certain grittiness to it. Pulpous rather Ihan buttery. Finishes minerai and Iresh, rather than buttery and rich. Chablis, with just a louch more warmth. (8Z)

87 PIERRE ANDRE 2006 Reserve Bourgogne Chardonnay Burgundy, France NB $22, NL 520

�----;-'

Although 2006 wasn't heralded as a red Burgundy vintage. this straighllorward w ine illustrates it made very good whites that are great with lood. This has a clean nose 01 pear and red apple, hints 01 lemon and minerai, with little to no oak. The palate is medium-bodied. with moderate fruit. balanced acidity, minerality, integrated oak and a dry finish. Not bad for around $20. Serve with basic white fish or roast chicken. (CP)

93

ITALY RED

GAJA 2004 Pieve Santa Restituta Sugarille Brunello di Montalcino, Italy Be $229. ON $285, ae $224

Black pepper, savoury spice, cherry, cedar, toHee, 'obacco. mint and pencil shavings ail come out on the incredibly expressive nose of this 8runello. Ifs full-bodied, with an elegant viscosity and medium tannins. This allows the bright red cherry flavours to mingle with the earth, mocha and understated wood flavours on the palate. The acidity is tart without imparting a sourness, which suggests 5 to 8 years in the cellar might benefit the wine. Don', be surprised if you can't wait that long - this is a special Brunello indeed. (BMS)

91 ACCORDINI 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella Classieo Le Bessole Veneto, Italy Be $60. MB $55

Peppery, floral, chocolate, meaty, plum, black cherry, liquorice root and Christmas cake

aromas. Round, supple, forward palate, with light, grainy tannins. Tobacco, coHee, vanilla, black cherry, plum, orange peel, kirsch, peppery and meaty flavours. Quite elegant. despite the warmth and somewhat Iresh finish. Will improve with 3 to 5 years in bottle. Fine quality. (AG)

91 ALLEGRINI 2006 Palazzo della Torre Verona, Veneto, Italy Be $30, AB $29, ON $25

= 9

Palauo is such an elegant wine when compared 10 so many modern reds that are heavy on Iruit and oak. The blend is 11 70125/5 mix of corvina veronese/rondinella/sagiovese, ail with a portion 01 ripas sa. There is plenty of Italian dryness, but it sits in the background against Ihe liquorice, red Iruit and peppery, tobacco flavours. Serve it with Bolognese now, or wait another 2 years for perfection. (AG)

ITALY WHITE

88 BOLlINI 2008 Pinot Grigio Volano, Trentino- AltoAdige, Italy Be S19 speclalty listing. AB $17, ON $17

Honey, nutty, fioral, quince, pear, anise and minerai aromas. Round, Iresh, easy style, with a hint 01 sweetness. Pear, nutty, quince, lemon, floral, spicy, butter flavours. Good richness, with a slightly austere. tart finish. Not quite as expansive as the previous year, but still good. (AG)

8 5 GABBIANO 2008 Pinot Grigio Friuli-Venezia Giulia, Italy Be $11. AB $13. SK $14, MB $14, ON $13. oc $12, NB $14, NS S12, PEI $15, NLSI4

Floral. apple. quince, citrus and earthy aromas Round, dry, fresh palate, with nutty, ci trus, nectarine skin, spicy flavours, with a touch 01 butter and a short finish. Simple, food style at a fair pflce. The dellcate nature of thls wme would blossom under screwcap. (ST)

92

N EW ZEALAND RED

ATA RANGI 2008 Pinot Noir Martinborough, Wairarapa, North Island, New Zealand AB 580. ON 565

The 2008 is a il about br ight, floral. strawberry and raspbe rry fruit aromas. with a dusting 01 minerality and earth. The entry is delicate, but silky and round, with big, bright, red Iruit flavours and smooth, supple tannins that slip eHortlessly along the palate. The finish is long and lingering. A very line pinot. This is

the real thing at 2/3 the price 01 ils Burgundy counterparts. (AG)

92 PEGASUS BAY 2007 Pinot Noir Waipara Valley, South Island, New Zealand Be $63

Always a delicious version of the grape, this comes with a bright, black cherry col our. The nose is open, with spicy, smoky, rooty, cherry notes mixed with bits 01 compost orange and strawberry jam. Beautilully polished, silky tannins make this very sippable. A supple, Iruity, delicious pinot noir that represents the best that cornes out 01 New Zealand. Attractive NewWorld pinot that is every bit as exciting as top Burgundy. (AG)

90 WITHER HILLS 2007 Pinot Noir Wairau Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand Be S3S, AB 546

Savoury. carrot top, celery salt barnyard. strawberry, meaty, raspberry aromas, wilh a touch 01 tobacco. Fresh, round, dry, elegant palate, with very light tannins. Juicy, cherry, strawberry. celery. orange, vanilla, rhubarb, smoky, dried thyme and minerai flavours. The finish is rich and structured, if a bit tart. GreaI for pork or duck dishes. Very good effort. (AG)

89 ATA RANGI 2008 Crimson Pinot Noir Martinborough, Wairarapa, North Island, New Zealand Be 528

Crimson may be the archetypal New World pinot noir: hall Burgundy (the good hall) and hall New World (the best hall). The nose and palate are in sync, sharing a spicy, black fruit character and a long, silky smooth texture lrom Iront ta back, with moderate tannins and a dry, earthy, savour y note throughout. Easy ta drink now. Good value. Should be on every restaurant list in the c i ty. (AG)

89 MOUNT RILEY 2008 Pinot Noir Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand Be 525. AB $23

Look lor a floral, liquorice, spicy, orange nose, with a touch of car1lway and curry spice. The palate is dry, round and elegant, with supple tannins. The flavours are a wild mix of tobacco leal, caraway, carroi top, cherry, orange peel and strawberry flavours, with 11 touch 01 tea leal. Good finesse. (ST)

wineacœ".ca· N" 59

BUYER'S GUIDE

91

N EW ZEALAND WHITE

ATA RANGI 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Martinborough, Wairarapa, North Island, New Zealand BC $22

A fine alternative style ta Marlborough. Look for a grassy, grapefruit, lemon grass and cooked gooseberry aromas, with slightly nutty. smoky notes. Ripe, rich, juicy, dry palate, with spicy, passion Iruit, gooseberry, lemon, floral, mango, grassy and jalapeno flavours. Good length and concentration, with fresh acidity on the finish. Very dassy and a good value. (AG)

90 MATUA VALLEY 2009 Paretai Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Valley, Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand BC $30. NL $30

Big, grapefruit and lime zest, asparagus, passion fruit, Granny Smith, melon rind and gooseberry aromas. Fresh, crisp. juicy palate. with good finesse. Green apple. lemon nettle, asparagus, green melon, gooseberry and grapefruit flavours, with a smoky note. Good finesse and elegance, with a very crisp. Granny Smith. jalapeno finish. Needs a bit of time to integrate, but this is good stuff. (ST)

90 WITHER HILLS 2008 Rarangi Single Vineyard Sauvig non Blanc Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand BC $27

Very intense jalapeno, asparagus, gooseberry, grapefruit rind, smoky and nettle aromas. Rich, round, tel\tured palate, with a Touch of sweetness and juicy acidity. Grapefruit, passion fruit. jalapeno, melon, lees, grassy and netlle flavours, as weil. Good length, with a full finish. (51)

87 MON KEY BAY 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, New Zealand BC $15, AB $14, MB $15, SK $18, ON $13, OC $17, NB $19. NS $18, PEI $17, NL $17

A Iruity and easygoing sauvignon that will work with salads orchicken roasted with herbs. Bright aromas 01 peach, nectarine, grapefruit and herbai tea. Good acidity latches on to the fruit and herbai layers. Good length. (JO)

86 MOUNT FISHTAIL 2009 Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, South Island, New Zealand BC $lS specialty listing

Bright, gooseberry, nettle and lighl jalapefio nase. with flecks of passion fruit. Round, fresh and elegant on entry, with a slightly sweet palate of green apple, passion fruit, interesting flecks of grass, asparagus, nettle and a lime rind finish. Solid fruit core. but the finish is a bit sweet and sour. Try this with Thai food. (AG)

N° 60 _W"'*Ac�AUGl!.EP 10

86

PORTUGAL ROSË

PINK ELEPHANT 2008 Rosé Portugal BC $13

Spicy, liquorice, floral, cherry, peppery, citrus aromas. Fresh, crisp, tart palate, with pomegranate. rhubarb, raspberry, minerai, spicy flavours. Very crisp, simple style that will handle most foods. Solid value. (ST)

86

PORTUGAL WHITE

ALlANÇA 2009 Vinho Verde Vinho Verde, Portugal ON $8, NB $tO

One doesn't el\pect a heck of a lot Irom vinho verde, except refreshment, and this has that. With a Iresh green apple and citrus, minerai nose, this pale greenish wine is very light in body, with the requisite slight fin, but makes up for it with tasty apple flavours (not unlike Mosel riesling) and a fizzy, citrusyfinish, a bit longer than other vinho verde in the market. Enjoy chilled on the deck or with simple green salads. (CP)

90

SPAI N FORTIFIED/DESSERT

EMILIO LUSTAU N/V East India Solera Sherry Jerez-Manzanilla, Spain BC $20/375ml, $37, AB $34, MB S17/375ml, ON $17I37Sml

Nice walnut, ruby colour. Spicy, toHee, walnut, dried citrus peel, chocolate, cedar, tobacco nose, with sorne floral character. Rich, ful', round, somewhat sweet style, but good acidity. Big rancio, walnut, toffee, orange peel, cedar, tobacco, earthy, peppery flavours, with sorne chocolate in the finish. lots of intensity here for desserts or spicy food, (ST)

95

SPAI N RED

BODEGAS ALiON 2004 Alién Ribera dei Duero, CastiUa-Leon, Spain BC $85 specialty listing, $160II,SOOml, $48013,OOOml, ON $81, OC $83

Ali6n is made not far from the River Duero and the famed Vega Sicilia. That said, it is an entirely diHerent wine - modern, to begin with, and bold, with intense dark Iruit and meaty, minerai, liquorice flavours. It is 100

percent aged in French oak. with substantial, round tannins in the baçk end. Very impressive now, but will dearly improve in boille as it ages say 5 to 10 years. (AG)

86 CAST ANO 2007 La Casona MonastreU Veda, Valencia and Murcia, Spain BC $10

Super cheap and !asty. Look for black cherry, pepper, floral, chocolate notes, with savoury aromas. The entry is soft and supple, with a pinch 01 rustic tannins and good body. Chocolate, peppery, dried herbs, black cherry, fig and liquorice root flavours impress for the price. Good fruit and intensity makes this a great value. The wine is dry-farmed (no irriga· tian, which keeps yields natura" y low) and the vines are 40 to 60 years old. Ali for around $10. Back up the truck and load up. (AG)

87

SPAIN WHITE

TORRES 2008 San Valentin Parellada Spain ON $13, NB $13, NS $10

When it comes to the parellada grape, mos! Canadians only know of Cava, but This varietal wine shows how it makes a very serviceable, clean, fresh white. It has the green apple and citrus notes expected Irom the region and grape, alongside minerality, on the nase. On the palate, it is a light, clean, refreshing white, with citrus fruit, crisp acidity and a medium finish. Ideal for sealood tapas. (CP)

92

U N ITED STATES RED

CHAPPELLET 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, California ON $69

A concentrated and well-balanced cabernet. with complexity and impressive structure. Aromas include blackberry, plum, herbai tea, earth, chocolate cream and wood spice. There is a solid fruit core amid spice, earthy minerai layers and firm tannin. The finish is elegant and long-lasting. Drink 2012 ta 2020. (JD)

2 0 0 7 BORDEAUX

R e l e a s e The 2007 vintage shows a deep colour and

a fresh, complex nose of red ripe frurt. The 2007 vintage deserves to join the group of

the very senous wines. It shows a very beautiful success in rts technical expression.

- Chateau Branaire-Ducru

.$_�WineM_ 855 Burrard Street, Vancouver, BC V6Z 2K6

Tel 604.642.2947 • Fax 604.642.2741

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Mfrom our wine cellar to yours�

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BUYER'$ GUIDE

92 RAVENSWOOD 2005 Old Hil l Zinfandel Sonoma County, California, United States AB $62, QC $70, NL $76

This top-shelf lin uses a total of 15 different varietals , with zinfandel making only 75 percent of the blend. Fantastic complexity ail around, the nose literally dances wilh spice box, blackberry, cedar, ripe berry fruit and woody aromas. On the palale, big and dense, with big fruits buffered by meaty tannins and big acid. Worth tucking a few away for up to 2015 or so. or. if you plan on doing some grilling. this would be a greal compliment to gourmet burgers or prime rib. (TF)

N" 62 · w;n.,Ac�AUG/SEP 10

91 E&J GALLO 2006 Frei Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, California, United States AB $30, MB $20, ON $24

Frei Ranch cabernet sauvignon seems to get better with each vintage. Compared to other cabs from California of this quality, it is wellpriced and cerlainly delivers. ExpeCl lhe nose to show cassis and blackberry fruit, with mocha, warm spice and foresl f100r accents. The palate is elegant, juicy and weil structured, with lots of f1avour. The focus is weil maintained onto the very long finish. Best 2010 to 2016. (5Th)

91 RAVENSWOOD 2005 Teldeschi Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley, California, United States BC $46. AB $50, QC $48

A bit hot at 15.5 percent alcohol, this is certainly not a wimpy wine. Rich on the palate. with red cedar. thick black cherry fruits and a spicy. slighlly sweaty character. On the palale, big black fruits of cherry and blackberry, with dark bitter chocolate flavours adding to the fun. A bit abusive 10 the palate, but il you like big, beefy z;n, you11 10ve this. (TF)

91 $T. CLEMENT 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley, Californ ia AB $46. ON $50. NL $50

A concentrated, complex and deftly balanced cab at a good price. look for appealing blackberry, plum. dark chocolate, spice and dried fruit lift. A solid fruit cenlre is joined by good tann ic structure, with toast y and spicy oak hints contributing to the flavour profile. Very good length. (JO)

90 STAG'S LEAP WINERY 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon California, United States AB $47, ON $50, NS $58

The 2CX)6 5lag's Leap cabernet is starting to show sorne nicely evolved notes here, w;th savoury and complex wood spice, fruit and earth. The palate is full-ish and firm, nicely structured. with long finish. Fine example for current enjoyment or short to mid-term aging. (JS)

89 IRONSTONE VINEYARDS 2007 Qld Vine Zinfandel Lodi, California, United States BC $20. AB S18, MB SIS, ON $18. GC $18. NS $17

This offers excellent value for zinlandel, with its fresh nose of plum jam and blackberry. with sweet herbs and raspberry. The palate is very juicy, with lots of fruit flavour and the finish is very long and Iruity. It has a good depth 01 berry fruit flavours, with spicy notes. Try with spicy beef stew and grilled vegetables - especially red peppers. Best 2010 ta 2014. (STh)WA

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B U Y I N G T H E LAB E L 1 BV T O M F I R T H

More Than J ust T uscany The wines of Northern Italy

A 11 100 nflcn. wc look 10 Tuscany 10 fulfill our Norlhcrn Italian rcd wine

ncc<ls, hui lllerc is more 10 ltaly's patch\\ork of appellations - cspccially

in the nOT! hern rcaches of the "Land of Ennl ria." Choiçcs range f rom 1 he

bold re(1s of Piedmont's Barolos �lIld B�lrhllrcsco districts, 10 the famcd

sparkling wines of Lombardy's Franciacarla region. Alto Adigc's siunning

whiles and rcds and the sl11oolh. casy-sillping Valpolicclili and ilS Icgendar)' ulllarollC

labels From thc Veneto. \Vith so mucll dil'crsit)', il is cas)' 10 sec whythc �lltraction of

Italian wines is ,IS Si rang liS crer. \Vhcthcr rOll arc redi�co\'ering :on nid f;l\"ouritc, or looking for soonclhing new, North_

crn hui)' is the [IIHCC to bcgin rour SC:lrch.

95 PlO CESARE 2005 Barolo Barolo, Ita ly BC $82. AB $77. OC $62, N$ $74

Still youthlul, the 2005 is slightly stemmy. with tar and sweet black vanilla aromas. but it has struc' ture and there is plenty lurking under the surface. Jaw.dropping. tannic a nd massive in the mou th,

with intense dark berry fruits, tobacco/tar flavours and great depth. This is a keeper. Try one now, but wail at least 10 years belore opening another.

95 $EREGO ALIGHIERI 2004 Vaio Armaron Amarone Classico Veneto, ltaly BC$143, AB $120

-�. --�- -:

The Vaio, which spends three years in Siovenian oak barrels, is only made in great vintages and the quality is readi ly apparent. Complex and evocative on the nose. smoky and

herbai lones come to the fore, but are pleas· antly wrapped around dense berry fruits, with mocha and leather. Robust and spicy on the palate. the wine is a touch too young still, but is continually evolving in the glass and with loads of structure. Cellar until at least 2012, but this is a long.term cellaring wine and should keep and improve until 2030 to 2040.

91 AlO1S LAGEDER 2(X)4 Cor Romigberg Cabernet Sauvignon Alto Adige. Italy AB $6()

Fantastic expression of cab· ernet sauvignon. with in· tense fruit and complexity. Fresh cedar, smoke, leather, chocolate. rich soil. eucalyp. tus. brine. blackberry and ginger notes. A bit of petit

verdot in the bottle adds sorne floral character. while on the palate the flavours are true and elegant. Still very young, this was recently tasted along with the IIrst v'ntage from 1989, which was still showing sorne power. Drink now, soon and through 2020.

91 PlO CESARE 2007 Fides Barbera d'Alba Barbera d'Alba, Italy AB $51. ON $45. NB $48. NS S48 � This single-vineyard barbera

a is labelled "Fides." which

.. translates to "trust" or "falth" in Latin. Although slightly clunky and smoky right now

( latter 20 months spent in medium-toast French oak),

the nose shows plenty of dassic barbera notes in a fairly masculine package tha! is perlect fOf big meals or big palates. A minimum 2 to 3 years cel laring should allow the flaveurs to integrate more. but this will knock YOUf socks off then and weil into the ne)(t de<:ade.

89 PlO CESARE 2007 Barbera d'Alba Barbera d'Alba, Ilaly AS $36, OC $21, NSS36

� lee bean, spice, cedar, cocoa,

l!9' A brilliant nose Irom this 100

percent barbera wine - col-

y ...... ,,'& and tobatto leaf. with light berry fruit notes, The palate is lively, with more fruit Ihan the nase and nice added

complexity Irom the year and a hall in oak. This pOlential cellar dweller is a steal,

90 MASI 2006 Bro lo di Campofiorin Veneto, Italy BC $26, MB $27, ON $25, OC $26, NS $35, NL $37

A higher tier of the classic Campofiorin, with its semidried grapes and double fermentation, this bottling has an addition of about 20 percent rondinella. Deeply

coloured in the g lass, with a touch of plummy red, the nase is bath jammy and spicy, with dried fruits, cranberry, leather, spice box and blackberry jelly ln the mouth - where it is vdvoty cmoolh and full f1avourod look for the same f1avours found on the nase, with a beautiful illusion of sweetness.

89 MICHELE CHIARLO 2006 Nizza La Court Barbera d'Asti Superiore Asti, Piedmont, Italy AB $62

The single-vineyard La Courte is top-shell barbera, Lush and smoky on the nose, with some alcohol heat and salted chocolate, coffee, and leather notes, Look for candied cherry and black raspberry, as weil. The wine is a touch lean on fruit for some palates, but shows power and depth, with an evolving range of f1avours as the wine

opens in the glass, You could drink it now, but the smart move is ta wait until 2012 or sa ta start opening those bottles.

90 ALOIS LAGEDER 2008 Pinot Grigio Alto Adige, Italy AB $24

" , .. ...... This is certainly not your everyday, run-of-the-mill pinOI grigio. The Lageder is initia lly quile lel!sy and floral on the nose, while working lowards herb, spice and apple notes, with a healthy dose of minerai tones of lime and soapstone.

The palate brings more Iruit and creaminess ta the fore, while bigger acids and the lees aging should allow for short-ta mid-term cella,ing, and help it pair weil with an impressive array 01 loods. Think savoury poultry and game, fish in cream sauces and sushi.

9 0 BELLA VISTA NV Cuvée Brut Franciacorta, Italy AB $211375 ml, $45, OC $45

A pleasant glass of bubbly for any occasion. Light toast y notes, along with Iresh citrus, baked pear, apple and

decent, expressive minerai tones, finished off with a creamy mousse. Good acid structure and a pleasant finish Ihat goes on for miles round out this excellent bottle 01 Franciacorta. Franciacorta can age Just like champagne. Serve chilled.

91 CA' DEL BOSCO NN Franciacorta Cuvée Prestige Franciacorta, Italy BC $49, AB $42, M8 $50, ON $40, OC $38

This cool climate sparkling wine Irom Northern Italy is based on chardonnay, wilh pinot blanc and pinot noir rounding it out. Good mousse, with crisp apple

fruits and a slightly baked note. The,e is plenIy ofbi�çuit �md miner81, both on the no�e 8nd palate, in a refined and elegant wine. Made in the traditional method, the wine is complex, tasty and a perfect alternative ta that other sparkling wine.

89 ALOIS LAGEDER 2005 L6we n gang Cabernet Alto Adige, Italy A8 $50

This is a blend 01 cabernet franc and sauvignon,

..... with a touch of merlot, Rich and intense on the nase, with heady aromas 01 cedar, peppers,

liquorice and cassis, Flavours stay true on the palate, with a lew floral characteristics, while leather and tobacco complement generous berry fruits. Oak aging for 18 manths saltens still-firm tannins and provides a hint of sweet vanilla. Drink now or ove, the next 10 years.

89 MASI 2008 Masianco Venezie, Italy 8C $16, N8 $20, NS $18, PEI $19, NL$17 ® A blend 01 pinot grigio

and verduZla, the 2008 ,haws Iresh sea salt. apple,

-" Iresh-cut wood and min-"-Yl'oR eral notes, w,th a touch 01 match head and almond. On the palate, the wlne IS rlch and lull·f1avaured lor a white wine - part of which

is due ta the lale-harvested verdu�za. Masianco is billed as a white super-Veneto and is the parlner wine ta the well-known Campofiorin. Serve chilled and il shauld go weil with a variety 01 white-friendly dishes,

89 MICHELE CHIARLO 2007 Le Orme Barbera d'Asti Superiore Asti, Piedmont, Ita ly BC $24, AS $20, OC $16

i l -=:J

Le Orme is the number one export wine Iram Michele Chiada and it will blaw you away with its quality. A

little more fruit-driven than some other offerings Iram Chiarla, Ihe '07 has Iresh,

spicy notes on the nose, with juicy, Iruity tones and a cool, floral touch. Lighter in body, but clean, with woody f1avours and ripe berry. Finish is good, but with a light touch of bitterness. This wine can age, but it will shine with hearty stews, game, hard cheese and rich sauces.

90 MICHELE CHIARLO 2009 Nivole Moscato d' Asti

, 1

Asti, Piedmont, Italy BC $17/375 ml. A8 $16/375 ml,

OC $11/375 ml Perhaps the best-knawn Moscato d'Asti ta Canadians and olten found in ;! h� lf h"TlI .. , th .. Niv"l .. i� summer in a glass. Ripe melon and honeydew, with floral, honey, peach, man-go and a soapstone miner

ality. Gaad mousse, the bubbles are tight and delicately offset the sweetness 01 the wine. Serve chi lied and soon - this is not meant for cella'ing. WA

O N T H E W E B For more wine reviews lrom Northern Italy, and around the world, visit wineaccess.ca and search our extensive wine notes data base.

wineacœ",ca· N" 65

FI NAL B L E N D 1 SY A N T H O N Y G I S M O N D I

Speed Tasti ng Wine marketing benefits wh en it steals a page from m odern Cupid's playbook

1 confess 1 h:ne nel'er laken a sommelier

course. nor hal'e 1 worked in a restau

ranI. 1 hal'e. hO\l'el'er. attended sClcral thousand lIinemaker's dinners and lIine

la�lings. II hich. 1 Ihink. does makc me a

lIilh Ihe houle as il is fOf Ihem 10 gCI face

lime lIith Ihe Il inemaker. On Ihm nme.

please heed Ihis message 10 Il incries: if

Ile do nOI sce Ihe houks. Ile lIili nCI'er

femember whkh Il ines Ile drank. i\!cssage

tl'IX' of c\l>ert on Ihe subJcc\. to sommeliers and sen'ers lrained in 1:1ble

l 'In n01 )!,oing to drone on aboul Ihe be- Clearin)!, 101 . do nOI Il hisk all'a)' the empl)

hind-Ihe-�cen(' mechanics - Htfficc to sa) botllc before el'eT)'one nt the tahle has had a therl' is mllch thal is t,tken for granted h) the chance to make a connCÇ[ion Il ith the \Iine,

auendanls nt thcse gmhcrinj!.s. Whde most the �peaker and the bOille ilself.

of us nccd nCl'l'r ta \l'orry about silch Ihings Indifferenl or dislracted Il inemakers and

as tablc ammj!.cmcnts dnd the dish soap missinj!. boules hal'e become ail 100 common

used on glasses. as l'OnSUmers jJ<l)inj!. j!.oud nt taslin)!,s and el'enIS. In m) l'iell . as a re-

monc) to j!.0 ta a winemaker's dinner. there suit. mas! of IlhM passes for Il ine marketing

arc duel' Ihin).\S Ile need 10 ask oursehcs. or. is geuing so old and lired. il requiTes a seri-

beller yel. ask thc organizcrs before handin,l( ous olerhaul 10 hale an) real effeet on the mer our hard-earned mone)': Il ill the aClual alerage consumer. But hope. and a nell \lil) Ilinemilker he lit the dinner? \ViII 1 hme Il uf doing things. is out there. 1 lIas pMI of a

chance 10 speak \l'ith him or her directl} at ,l(rUlllldhreaking Ilell speed lastinj!. elcnt al

ml' table? And lIill l bc able 10 sec ail of the the 21 st an nuai VancoUl'er l'Ia}hmlse lnter-

bottles of ail the \\'ines !l0ured at the dinner? national \\'int· Festilal hcld this past April.

\\'hile these ma} secm the mOSI basic of The concept behind speed tasling is the

queslions, it is shoekin)!. hO\I oflen organi;:- same as the one hehind sl>ced dating. 1\11)-

crs, and Il inemakers themscll'cs, negieci one familiar Ilith spt'ed dating lIili recogniœ

these simple clements that make Ihe el'ent the basic format. and for those IIho han'

SO "orll,,\ hile for Ihe eonsUlllers_

These dinners oflen 1;0llle nt the end of

a long dn} Ihm he)!.an. for Ihe Il inemnker al least. in another lime zone. \\'hile 1 am sure

il is a lOI casier ln chat Il ilh l'our diSlribulor and the Illedia !han I\ork the room. lell !hnl

10 Ihe consulller 1\ ho paid $125 to bc ho�ted

b) )'ou . !fthe point is to huild the brand and

sl'II the lIine. then the lIinemaker should

be un the mOl'e ail night. l isit ing t'ach tablc

in Ihe ruom and makin)l that ali-important

connection \l'ilh the CUSlOmers.

That's hOIl Iline is sold. The da) foIlO\I'

ing an CI ent. names on menus. II-ine lists

and store shl'kes mean nothing 10 consum

ers unless Ihe)' Gill link them 10 a powerful

melllory of Ihe el'ent. the Ilinemaker. the

bottle and the label. Thm is Il h} il is almosl

as i lll]lOT!ant for attendees trJ gel face time

N° 6-6 _W.,.,Ac<noAU(ilYP 10

nelCf tried il, Ihe �t'l-Ul' is l'rell)- �iml'I�'

it is a formalizl'd millch-

ma king plllcess. designed

to encourage parlicipants

trJ meC( a large number

of nell people in a shoT!

alllOUI1l of lime, Throll

in dt'ments of a form'II \l'ine lasting and theT('

l'ou h,IIC it. lne Speed 1' .. st-

ing elenl al l'la) house

bruughl logt'ther 1 " prin

cipals. 1 -1 great Il ines IInd

8-1 tasters. eaeh of Il h0111

C\j>l'rienccd a ShOfl. in(l'n�e mL�ting lIith each

of the presenters. Ilho

\\ere puuring out passion

both from thelr souls and thl'ir boules.

E .. eh winer} I>rincipal Sai a table whl're

Ihe) poured Iheir marquee \\int' for si� tasl

crs IIho Il cre gil-en si.\ minutes to tastt' Ihe

IIi ne , ask que,tions and hem Ihe stor} of the

lI"inl', tht· principal and the \linel"}.

Ninet) minutes ]aler. elt'!,!'one left the room lI ith 1-1 fan!astil' s!ories. d t.lste of 1 -1 jl.reill

lIines and a sense th'll tht')" hdd e�perienced

sO!1lcthinjl. (ell people el'cr do - name1). !he

chan('c 10 eogagt' in one-on-one eOnl,le! Il ith

SUlllt" of Ihe wine IIOrlJ'S bijl.jl.cst n,tmes.

1\1 $75 a ticket. it IIJS Ihc oargain of

the l'car. Just ask anyone Il ho tasled the

Beaucaslcl 2007 I lomm'lge, Ilhich rt'tails

for $350. lI ith winer) cO-O\lner Thomas

Perrin. Thc)' \l'ill nel'er forget il. l n fact.

each nttendee lefl the rOl1111 Ilith more Ihan 1 -1 slOries - simpl)' add 10 that numbcr

thc peTwl1al SIO!'!· of Ihcir time spent Ilith

some of the most inlcreSling and passionale penple in the indust!,!,. The \l'ines. the da) .

the bottle� ail bccomc unforgellable. Il hieh.

nfleT ail is sai(1 and donc. is Ihc rcai lloinl of

lIine m<lrkcting. any\\ay.WA

IIlustralion by Pierre Lamielle

�. SIN 389

" ...... 1 '.'.U

RE-CORKING C L I N I C

� TORONTO, CANADA Friday September 24, 20 1 0

"Wh at 's i n you r ce l l a r? "

ANNOUNCING THE RETURN OF PENFOlOS

RE·CORKING CllNIC TO TORONTO

Wine connaisseurs know Penfolds as one of the world's mos! collet:tible wines. What they may not know is tha!

the 2010 Penfolds Re-corking Clinic offers you the rare

opportunity 10 have your Penfolds wines evaluated alongs ide

Chief Winemaker Peter Gago. If necessary, they may be

opened, topped up, re-capsuled and certified by Penfolds in

conjunction with Christie's Auction House, ail al no cost 10 you, Il is the ultimale in after-sales service.

_ ...... cOlono ..... ln�1I com - Colle Cobos (55091 Ag.olo. Lujon do Cuyo. Mandozl). A'genli"o - Phonll: 54-28 1 - 4 1 3- 1 ' 00 Proudly represenled by Calibrium Inlernet ! o n a l . www.cellbrium.com

wine access canada's wine magazine, august september 2010 volume 12 number 5 august, september

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