wkdesigner wordpress com 2007-09-15 pattern drafting by heig

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September15, 2007

PATTERN DRAFTING BY HEIGHT

Posted by Don under apparel design| Tags: creativity, fashion design,

pants, patterndrafting|

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A rc h iv ed En t ry

Post Date :

September 15, 2007 at 5:04 am

Category :

apparel design

Tags: creativity, fashion design,

pants, patterndrafting

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This pattern design m ethod can be used to determine drafting measurem ents from a

giv en figure height combined with girth m easurements for the chest, waist and hips.

Knowing the persons height allows for formulations of various lengths based on the

Golden Meanand combined with established size parameters, a trouser or torso pattern

can be drafted for an average human body.

H= full length of body; also the span of laterally outstretch ed arms, m easured from

finger -tip to finger -tip, is equal to the heig ht of the body .

1/2 H= u pper part of body (torso) or lower part of body (legs)

1/4 H = lengt h of leg from a nkle to knee and length from chin t o nav el

1/6 H= length of foot and length of forearm (measured from elbow to wrist)

1/8 H= leng th of head from crown t o bottom of chin

1/10 H= height of face; also length of hand

Drafting By Height: Trousers(based on 8 h eads per figu re)
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The th eory based upon t he Golden Meancan be used to determine drafting

measurem ents from a giv en figure h eight of an av erage or off-proportioned body. You

need the following measurem ents to draft a trouser patt ern: height , wa ist and hips. The

scale is one head equals 1/8 of the totalheight.

Example:

for a person who is 5 feet 8 inch es tall, one head lengt h is 8

5 8 = 68 68/8 = 8.5

Rise is 1 head plus 1 ease plus width of the waistband

eg. rise = 1/8 height + ease + wa istband width

Inseam is 4 heads minus Y (amount taken off for width of trouser cuffs)

eg. inseam = 1 /2 height Y

Outseamis inseam plus rise, or

5 heads plus ease min us Y plus waistband width

eg. outseam = 5/8 heigh t + ease Y + waistband width

Example:

Giv en a heigh t of 5 feet, 8 inches, trouser cuff width of 18 and a w aistband 1-1 /2 wide,then:

rise = 68/8 + 1 + 1 .5 = 11

inseam = 68/8 2.5 = 31 .5

outseam = 5/8 x 68 + 1 2.5 + 1 .5 = 42 .5
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Table for Leg Reduction(Y amount)

for bottom width take off Y amount *

24 1

23 1 .25

22 1 .5

21 1 .7 5

20 2

1 9 2.25

1 8 2.5

*for shaped trouser cu ffs, use less Y am ount (0. 5 to 0.7 5)

Trouser draft:

squar e both wa y s at 0.

0-1 = body rise + 3 /8 [1cm ]; square

across

0-2= waist to hip; square across.

(approx. 8-9 [20-23 cm]).

0-3= outseam; square a cross

1-4= m idway between 1-3 minus 2 [5

cm]; square across.

1-5 = 1 /12 hip mmt. + 5/8 [18 m m];

squar e up to locate points 6 and 7 .

6-8= hip mmt. + 3/8 [10 mm ]

5-9= 1 /16 hip mmt. + 3/8 [10mm]
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7-10= 3/8 [1 0mm ] squar ed across

and 3/8 [10 m m] squared down

Join 10-6 with straigh t line and join 6-

9 with a curv e line as shown.

This is the centerfront cru tch seam.

Square u p and down from point 8.

10-11= waist mmt. + 3/8 [10mm]

(note: point 1 1 w ill sit on line 7.)

12is located at intersection of 3 and 8.

13is located at intersection of 4 and 8.

Square down from 5 to locate 1 4 an d 15

5-16 = 1 /2 m mt of line 5-9

6-17 = m mt of line 5-9

7-18= 3 /8 [10m m]; join 1 7 -1 8 and extend as a tangent line

19-20= waist mm t. + 3/8 [10 mm ], taken at a 90 degree angle from ta ngent line

so that line 19 -20 t ouches the line 7 -1 1 . (Note: point 1 9 w ill be located on the r ight

angle and the constru cted line may not touch at point 1 1 a s shown. )

9-21= m mt . of 5-9

Join 1 7 -21 with cur v ed line as shown

3-22= 1 /4 trouser cuff width minus 1/4 [6 mm ]


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23 is located on kneeline.

3-24 = trouser cuff width minus 1/4 [6 m m]

4-25= 4-23

Join 24-25 with a straight line and 25 -9 wit h a cur v ed line as shown.

24-26= 3/4 [20 mm]

25-27 = 3/4 [20mm]

Join 26 -27 with a straight line and 27 -21 with a parallel curv ed line as shown.

5-28= hip mmt. + 1/4 [6 mm]

Join 22-23 -28-8 and gently curv e into 20 to draw outseam leg seam.

This is an easy fit ty pe trouser pattern . Tra ce off front and back patterns. If you desireextra ease (seat an gle) in cr utch of trousers back portion, cut along back hipline and

open a wedge about 1 -1 /2 [40 m m] w ide at CB to nil at side seam . Redraw centerback

seam.

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8 RESPONSES TO PATTERN DRAFTING BY HEIGHT

1. Lopamudra GhoshSays:

March 28, 2008 at 10:39 am

It was interesting and easy to understand. However, I have not tried it

practically. Let us hope for the best.

2. DeirdreSays:

March 30, 2008 at 7:11 am

Thanks for posting this fyi. Ive wanted to learn how to do this for a while.

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3-in-1 skirt pattern GORED SKIRT FATHER & SON TIES

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So now (of course) i have some points that could use clarification.

1) Where exactly do you place #10? I figured Id fake it and that seemed to

work until I connected 17-19 which

2) My 17-19 line fell on the inside of point 10.

3) My 19-20 line was several inches shorter than my/your calculations would

suggest. Of course there may be a number of reasons for this.

I think my ultimate question is if the posted diagram is what my patternshould look like.

I had a momentary confusion when i read bottom width. I thought for a

while you might be talking about the seat. So instead of saying bottom

width or trouser bottom I suggest cuff circumference or trouser

cuff.

Thanks again. I think overall its quite easy to read. Yey!

3. wkdesignerSays:

March 30, 2008 at 2:37 pm

Thanks Deirdre for the suggestions. Always good to have someone actually

proofread the instructions. Sometimes my words get lost in translation.

LOL!

As for the diagram, it is not to scale so your draft may not look exactly as

shown but trust your measurements. It is only a map to follow the point

location.


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4. ISLAND FLOUNCER Weekend designerSays:

March 18, 2009 at 1:45 am

[] This pattern is drafted by height. []

5. Damen-Oberbekleidung - Linkliste (clothes) | Kostenlose-Schnittmuster.deSays:

May 7, 2009 at 8:49 am

[] Hose []

6. FATHER & SON TIES Weekend designerSays:

May 28, 2009 at 6:42 pm

[] This tie is drafted by height. []

7. bc Says:

August 14, 2010 at 1:41 pm

wat hv been lookin 4

8. bc Says:

August 14, 2010 at 1:46 pm

i love dis
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