visitpuebla.mxvisitpuebla.mx/wp-content/uploads/ingles-mexico-desconocido.pdfwww. .travel www....
TRANSCRIPT
M E X I C O D E S C O N O C I D O . C O M
S P E C I A L
G U I D E B O O K
DISCOVER
PUEBLA
SIERRA MÁGICA, 340 MILES
THROUGH MISTY LANDSCAPES
40FASCINATING DESTINATIONSWITH FLAVOR AND ADVENTURE
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
Get
tyim
ages
Geography is destiny and the state of Puebla is lucky enough to face east from the center of the country. Here the eternal dance of the valleys and mountains is overseen by the volcanoes, solitary guardians that inspire greatness in all who live beside them. This is perhaps the reason why everything in Puebla has stretched or stretches towards the sky like the volcanoes themselves: the old pre-Hispanic temples now long gone, the domes of colonial churches and anything the people of Puebla can imagine, like the new Estrella de Puebla (Star of Puebla), a huge Ferris Wheel located in the modern Angelópolis.
This México desconocido Special Guidebook Discover Puebla takes you to the different corners of the state. Accompany us on a walk through the streets of a capital which jealously guards its colonial past and feel time pass in the inner world of museums and convents just as it does in the open air, in the recently inaugurated Parque Lineal or from the heights of the Loreto and Guadalupe forts.
You should also visit the night Magical Towns of Puebla: Atlixco, Cholula, Tlatlauquitepec, Cuetzalan, Zacatlán, Chignahuapan, Huauchinango, Pahuatlán and Xicotepec. They are filled with tradition, have a story to tell and fill the senses with the wonders of nature. Many of these towns can be found in the Sierra Mágica, with the northern horizon all mountains and mist, along with other towns that are also well worth visiting. Waterfalls and dams, coffee plantations, regional dishes and simple, honest people await everyone who ventures into these mountains.
But even if you do visit the mountains, don’t forget the intriguing and arid landscape of the Mixteca or the valleys of Puebla: Valle Serdán, where the Cantona archeological site is located; the town of Atlixco with its fields of flowers; and Tehuacán, a town of fossils and mineral waters. So come and enjoy the experience that Puebla has to offer!
or wordF e
Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel, San Miguel de Allende.
Da
vid
Pa
nia
gu
a
GENERAL DIRECTOR
Javier Abarca Ruisánchez
MARKETING AND NEW
PROJECTS DIRECTOR
José Luis Cachafeiro [email protected]
OPERATIONS MANAGER Juan Carlos Pérez-Caballero Mendoza
EDITORIAL DIRECTOR
Beatriz Quintanar HinojosaART DIRECTOR
Jaime Ernesto Esquivel Medina
DESIGN
Inés Sáenz Arroyo Valencia
MULTIMEDIA COORDINATOR
Manuel Cerón Hernández
VIDEO EDITOR Rodrigo Román
AUDIOVISUAL ARCHIVE Carlos Barragán
TRANSLATION Mark Fessenden ENGLISH EDITION
Última Sílaba
HUMAN RESOURCES
DIRECTOR Arnulfo Ahumada Sánchez
FINANCIAL DIRECTOR
Federico Déciga Navarro [email protected]
EDITOR
Aleida Martínez García
ASSOCIATED EDITOR
Adriana García García
GRAPHIC EDITOR
David Paniagua Guerra
ONLINE EDITORS
Angel Gallegos FernándezPaulina Santibáñez
MAPS
Magdalena Juárez Vivas
PRINT PUBLISHER
Ulises Navarro Ló[email protected]
ONLINE PUBLISHER
Eduardo Scheffler Zawadzki [email protected]
BUSINESS MANAGER
Javier Arnau Á[email protected]
COMMERCIAL STRATEGY
DIRECTOR
Benjamín Fontaine Martínez [email protected]
ONLINE BUSINESS MANAGER
Juan Carlos García Luna Gutié[email protected]
CHAIRMAN OF EDITORIAL BOARD
Francisco Martín Moreno
PRINT AND ONLINE ACCOUNT MANAGERS
Claudia López Tolsá [email protected]
Gerardo Roa Garcí[email protected]
Ikerne Schnabel [email protected]
Magdalena Ampudia [email protected]
María del Carmen Domínguez Rosales
Marilú Maldonado Navarro [email protected]
Martha Aldrete Cantú[email protected]
Mauricio Armendáriz [email protected]
Regina Sánchez Belmont García Jurado
Salvador Mejía [email protected]
Erik Finkenthal Miramontes T. 0155 5267 0741
Morayma Alvarado Alfonso T. 0155 5267 0737
PRODUCTION MANAGERViridiana Salas Velázquez [email protected]
LEGAL MANAGERJorge Villaseñor Magallón
COLOR MANAGEMENT César Durán Mendoza
SWITCHBOARD T. 0155 5267 0544
SUBSCRIPTIONS AND CUSTOMER SERVICE Lorena Vázquez Hernández
T. 0155 5267 0500 01800 901 2900
[email protected] suscribiendome.com.mx
136/11IASA prints this publication on paper certified by the PEFC (Programme for the Endorsement of Forest Certification).
México Desconocido is a magazine published by Impresiones Aéreas, S.A. de C.V., Rosaleda No. 34, Lomas Altas, 11950, México, Distrito Federal. Year: 2016. Reissue. Editorial Director: Beatriz Quintanar Hinojosa. Reservation of rights licensed by the Instituto Nacional del Derecho de Autor (National Copyright Institute) No. 04-2010-
090816083700-102. Certificado de Licitud de Título (Certificate of Lawful Title) 13765 and Certificado de Licitud de Contenido (Certificate of Lawful Content) 11338, both licensed by the Comisión Calificadora de Publicaciones y Revistas Ilustradas (Evaluating Committee for Illustrated Publications and Magazines). ISSN: 1870-9397.
Authorization SEPOMEX No. PP-09-1485. Printed at Corporativo Prográfico S.A. de C.V. Calle 2 No. 257 Bodega 4, Col. Granjas San Antonio, Del. Iztapalapa, C.P. 09070, México DF. Distributed by Distribuidora Intermex, S.A. de C.V., Lucio Blanco No. 435, Col. San Juan Tlihuaca, C.P. 02400, México, D.F., and Unión de Expendedores y
Voceadores de los Periódicos de México, A.C., Barcelona No. 25, Col. Juárez, México, C.P. 06600, Distrito Federal. Opinions expressed by the authors and/or collaborators of
this publication do not necessarily reflect those of the publishing house; consequently, the former shall assume liability in the event of any related repercussions. This
magazine considers its sources to be reliable and verifies the information contained within as much as possible; however, errors or variations in accuracy may occur, and
readers use the information at their own risk. The advertising space appearing in this magazine is the sole and exclusive responsibliity of the advertiser offering its products
or services, and the editors, publishing house, employees, collaborators, and consultants of this periodic publication assume no responsibility for that content whatsoever.
This publication was produced with the valuable collaboration of the National Anthropology and History Institute (INAH). Reproduction, use, or transmission in any form or by any means of images contained in this work belonging to the cultural heritage of the Mexican nation is restricted pursuant to the provisions of the Ley Federal Sobre Monumentos y Zonas Arqueológicos, Artísticos e Históricos (Federal Legislation Protecting Archaeological, Historical and Artistic Monuments) and the Ley Federal del
Derecho de Autor (Federal Legislation on Copyright). All rights reserved. Total or partial reproduction prohibited without prior consent from the editors and/or copyright holders. ©® IASA Comunicación and its design are property of Impresiones Aéreas, S.A. de C.V. ©® G21 and its design are property of Grupo Inversor Intelectiva S.A.P.I.de C.V.
5 4
C O N T E N T SMágicaSierra
dePuebla
o tentsCTexts: Jimena Sánchez-Gámez Photos: Marcos Ferro
3 Sierra Mágica 60This region of the mountains of Puebla is mysterious, adventurous, joyful and magical and serves as a cultural melting pot. These seven destinations offer a wealth of handicrafts, food, customs and traditions that are just waiting to be enjoyed by everyone who decides to visit. A truly rewarding experience awaits you.
P1 Ixtacamaxtitlán 64P2 Tetela de Ocampo 70P3 Zacatlán 78Gastronomic Tour 85P4 Chignahuapan 86P5 Huauchinango 94P6 Xicotepec 102P7 Pahuatlán 108Health Tour 113
1 State Stars 8The capital of Puebla is a World Heritage Site and is filled with joy and the charm of the Popo and Izta volcanoes, making it a highly recommended travel option. The city’s colonial architecture, specialized cuisine, handicrafts and endless charm are more than enough to satisfy the most demanding traveler. Very close to the city you will find Cholula, a Magical Town of churches shrouded in secrets. Other featured spots worth a visit include Africam Safari and Tonantzintla.
• Puebla 12• Cholula 26
2 Magical Towns 32Who wouldn’t love these towns? Whether walking streets lined with colorful mansions, experiencing the tranquility of sitting in the central squares while soaking up the atmosphere and watching the locals, tasting the local cuisine or meeting the people who create the wonderful local handicrafts, memorable experiences abound in these seven towns. A journey through the seven Magical Towns of Puebla offers a wonderful weekend gift you simply shouldn’t miss. .
• Atlixco 34• Cholula 38• Tlatlauquitepec 40• Cuetzalan 44• Zacatlán 50• Chignahuapan 52• Huauchinango 54• Pahuatlán 56
• Xicotepec 58
4 Corners of Puebla 114No trip through Puebla would be complete without a visit to the Valle Serdán with its charming and beautiful altarpieces and religious architecture, or the Valle de Atlixco with its colorful nurseries and the El Huey Atlixcáyotl cultural festival. For its part, the Mixteca jealously guards its fossils and gigantic cacti as well as the many local species to be found in the Reserva de la Biósfera Tehuacán-Cuicatlán. A pleasant surprise waits at every turn in the state of Puebla.
• Valle Serdán 116• Valle de Atlixco 118• Valle de Tehuacán and the Mixteca 120
Services Directory 124
7 6
C O N T E N T SMágicaSierra
dePuebla
Parque Los Fuertes, ciudad de Puebla. Ast
rid
Ro
drí
gu
ez
Discover Puebla
8
Puebla and Cholula, cities of countless churches, are a must for lovers of lively streets and markets with their mixture of colonial Mexico and the culinary world of mole and candy.
1
t tesStars of thea
CHAPTER
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
11 10
S T A R S O F T H E S T A T EDiscover Puebla
To the Puebla-Valsequillo road
1
2
3
44
44
56
78
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
1718
19
20
2122
23
24
25
26
2728
29
30
31
Barrio delArtista
Z Ó C A L O
3233
34
35
39
42
43
51
52
40
36
37 38
1.2.3.4.5.
6.7.8.9.
10.11.12.13.14.15.16.17.18.19.20.21.22.23.24.25.26.
27.28.29.30.
31.32.
Templo Conventual de San FranciscoPaseo de San Francisco Hotel La Purificadora 4Centro de ConvencionesTo the Galería de Arte Moderno y Contemporáneo Ángeles Espinosa YglesiasHotel Casareyna Teatro Principal Café Amparo Plazuela del Torno Café del Artista El Parián Museo Regional Casa de Alfeñique Calle de los DulcesCasa de los Hermanos SerdánTemplo del Espíritu Santo or Iglesia de la CompañíaPlazuela and Callejón de los SaposLa Pasita Hotel Mesón Sacristía de la Compañía Catedral Palacio del AyuntamientoBiblioteca PalafoxianaCasa del Deán Mural de los Poblanos Museo Amparo Museo José Luis Bello y González Museo Universitario Casa de los Muñecos and Casa de los Muñecos restaurantTemplo de Santo DomingoCapilla del RosarioMuseo José Luis Bello y ZetinaEx Convento de Santa Rosa (Museo de Arte Popular Poblano)Ex Convento de Santa MónicaTo El Señor de las Maravillas
41
12 PONIENTE
14 PONIENTE
14 ORIENTE
3ª CENTRAL
2ª CENTRAL
16 PONIENTE
18 PONIENTE
18 PONIENTE
32 ORIENTE
4 N
ORT
E
16 PTE.
20 PONIENTE
JACARANDAS
ALATORRE
GU
AY
AC
AN
LAUREL
PIRUL
12 ORIENTE
5 N
ORT
E3
NO
RT
E
2 N
OR
TE
4 N
OR
TE
6 N
ORT
E
6 N
ORT
E
8 N
ORT
E
6 SUR
8 ORIENTE
12 N
OR
TE
10 N
OR
TE
18 OTE.
20 OTE.
24 ORIENTE
22 ORIENTE
10 ORIENTE
10 N
OR
TE
4 ORIENTE
10 PONIENTE
6 ORIENTE
6 PONIENTE
2 ORIENTE3 ORIENTE
3 PONIENTE
5 ORIENTE
7 ORIENTE
7 PONIENTE
9 ORIENTE11 ORIENTE
8 PONIENTE
4 PONIENTE
5 PONIENTE
2 S
UR
4 SU
R
3 S
UR
UN
IDA
D C
ÍVIC
A 5 D
E M
AYO
EJÉRC
ITOS D
E OR
IENTE
AVEN
IDA O
COTE
TRIUNFO MEX IC A N O
14 N
ORTE
6 N
OR
TE
8 N
OR
TE
3O O
RIENTE26 ORIENTE
BarrioEl Alto
5 D
E M
AYO
5 D
E M
AY
O
16 S
EP
TIE
MB
RE
BO
ULE
VA
RD
HÉROES D
EL 5 D
E M
AY
O
BO
UL
EV
AR
D H
ÉROES D
EL 5 DE
MA
YO
PALAFOX Y MENDOZA
REFORMA
CA
LL
E 2
NO
RT
E
ZA
RA
GO
ZA
DE LOS F
UE
RT
ES
DE L
OS FUERT E S
Puebla
To highway 150 D Mexico-Puebla to
Amozoc
General Information
Connectivity Highways 150, 140, 135; Federal roads 121, 190.
Puebla Central Bus Station – CAPU:Norte Blvd. 4222, Las Cuartillas.T. (01222) 249 7211.capu.com.mxLines: ADO, ATAH, Estrella Roja, Futura-Elite-Chihuahuenses, Oro. ADO Palmas PlazaZeta del Cochero Ave. 403,Atlixcáyotl Territorial Reserve.T. (01222) 225 7732.
4 Poniente Estrella Roja4 Poniente 2110, Amor.T. (01222) 273 8300 / 01800 712 2284.
Puebla International Airport Km 91.5 on the Mexico-Puebla federal road, Huejotzingo.T. (01227) 102 5080.Airlines: Aeroméxico, Volaris, United Airlines.
Tourist Information5 Oriente 3, Historic Center.T. (01222) 246 2490 / 01800 3268656.Mon to Sat, 8am to 8pm; Sun, 9 am to 2 pm.
Secretaria de Turismo Puebla
TurismoenPuebla
turismoenpuebla
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
43
48
4950
45
46
47
7 PONIENTE9 PONIENTE
5 S
UR
To highway 438 D Atlixco-Puebla
1.2.3.4.5.
6.7.8.9.
10.11.12.13.14.15.16.17.18.19.20.21.22.23.24.25.26.27.
28.29.30.31.
32.33.34.35.36.37.38.39.40.41.42.43.44.45.46.47.48.49.50.51.52.53.54.55.56.57.58.59.60.61.62.63.64.65.
Templo Conventual de San FranciscoPaseo de San Francisco Hotel La Purificadora Centro de ConvencionesTo the Galería de Arte Moderno y Contemporáneo Ángeles Espinosa YglesiasHotel Casareyna Teatro Principal Café Amparo Plazuela del Torno Café del Artista El Parián Museo Regional Casa de Alfeñique Calle de los DulcesCasa de los Hermanos SerdánTemplo del Espíritu Santo or Iglesia de la CompañíaPlazuela and Callejón de los SaposLa Pasita Hotel Mesón Sacristía de la Compañía Catedral Palacio del AyuntamientoBiblioteca PalafoxianaGalería Tesoros de la CatedralCasa del Deán Mural de los Poblanos Museo Amparo Museo José Luis Bello y González Museo Universitario Casa de los Muñecos and Casa de los Muñecos restaurantTemplo de Santo DomingoCapilla del RosarioMuseo José Luis Bello y ZetinaEx Convento de Santa Rosa (Museo de Arte Popular Poblano)Ex Convento de Santa MónicaTo El Señor de las MaravillasCasona San AntonioEl Sueño Hotel and SpaDescansería HotelTo the Mercado El CarmenTo the Mercado de los Sabores food marketFuente de GuadalupeFuerte de LoretoCentro Cívico Cultural 5 de MayoMuseo de la EvoluciónPlanetariumCentro de Exposiciones y Convenciones PueblaAuditorio de la Reforma Museo Regional de PueblaLago de la ConcordiaMirador MantarrayaParque Temático 5 de MayoParque Paseo del TeleféricoMinistry of Tourism officesTo the Centro Comercial AngelópolisTo the La Isla and Platinum squaresTo Parque LinealTo the Reserva Territorial Atlixcáyotl-QuetzalcóatlTo the EcoParque MetropolitanoTo the Auditorio MetropolitanoTo the Paseo del Río AtoyacTo Parque EcológicoTo Museo del Ejército y Fuerza Aérea MexicanaTo Casa de Música de Viena en PueblaTo Casa del Títere, Marionetas MexicanasTo Museo Infantil La ConstanciaTo Africam SafariTo the Parque Estatal Lázaro Cárdenas del Río
13 12
S T A R S O F T H E S T A T EDiscover Puebla
PueblaThe Angelópolis Loved by Everyone
The Barrio AntiguoA walk through the city of angels could well begin to the east in the oldest part of town, the Barrio El Alto neighborhood. In the past the San Francisco River (Héroes del 5 de Mayo Blvd.) ran through here and beside the former Royal Road to Veracruz (14 Oriente Ave.) you will find the Templo Conventual de San Francisco. The convent was
founded in the 16th century and is the oldest in Puebla. The original
church was replaced by the current building which features an 18th
century facade. The Baroque entrance is made from quarried stone
and to the sides are high brick walls featuring Talavera tiles. Inside
the church is the Capilla de la Virgen Consquistadora, a chapel where
you will find the small ornamented image given by Hernán Cortés to
one of his Tlaxcalan allies.
If you walk down 10 Norte alley you will come to the Paseo de San Francisco, which is home to the Hotel La Purificadora, a large shopping
mall and the Centro de Convenciones. Crossing the gardens at the back
you reach the Galería de Arte Moderno y Contemporáneo Ángeles Espinosa Yglesias, which promotes the visual arts with temporary
exhibitions (12 Norte 607; Mon to Sun, 10 am to 5 pm). A short walk from
the Paseo de San Francisco is the Hotel Casareyna (Privada 2 Oriente 1007) where the restaurant is famous for its impeccable mole poblano.
his city, founded by the Spanish in 1531
and which never forgets its colonial past, wakes
up every day with a view of the volcanoes. Seen
from the air it looks like a board covered with
tiled church domes, while at ground level the city
is a veritable feast of mole and candy. What you
see here in just three days will whet your appetite
and have you coming back for more in this jewel
set in the heart of the state.
T
1DAY FROM SAN FRANCISCO TO LOS SAPOS
There is no better place for watching the sun move slowly across the sky, cocktail in hand, than the terrace of the Hotel La Purificadora. The hotel also boasts a transparent swimming pool while the Iglesia de San Francisco can be seen in the background. Next to the hotel the Paseo de San Francisco gardens are full of life.
Don’t Miss
The Templo Conventual de San Francisco, a wonderful example of Puebla Baroque.
The Galería de Arte Moderno is housed in the old La Violeta yarns and fabrics factory.
The Barrio del Artista has always served as a meeting place, first for merchants and now for painters.
15 14
S T A R S O F T H E S T A T EDiscover Puebla
Among Artists and CandyBy simply crossing the busy Héroes del 5 de Mayo Boulevard you enter a very different and more dramatic atmosphere where you will find
the discrete and somewhat solitary Teatro Principal (8 Oriente). This
theater was inaugurated in 1760 and since that time it has undergone
numerous transformations. Next to it is the Barrio del Artista, a
cobblestoned universe of art and tables in the open air. It is common
to see painters working on their canvases here or in the string of small
galleries, and sometimes they even set up their easels in the street.
At the Café Amparo there is live music at night while on the corner
of the square called Plazuela del Torno you will always see someone
soaking up the sun and drinking a beer at the Café del Artista.
El Parián (6 Norte), which can be found just after the Barrio del
Artista, is a handicrafts market located in the old Plazuela de San
Roque. The stalls with their vaulted ceilings are organized around
a sculpture of St. Francis of Assisi and sell items made from Talavera
ceramics, textiles, wood, and palm fronds, and you can also find
Amozoc silver and Amate paper from Pahuatlán.
In contrast, there is the Museo Regional Casa de Alfeñique (4 Oriente 416), a house dating from the 18th century built in a delicate
Baroque style. Mortar, quarried stone, baked clay and Talavera:
each material possesses its own distinct beauty. Transformed into a
regional museum in 1926, it houses a collection of over 1,500 pieces.
The first rooms hark back to the founding of Puebla and the period
of the Spanish Conquest—there are some surprising codices from the
16th century—, while the mezzanine is filled with religious paintings,
vestiges of the Battle of the 5 de Mayo and a famous China Poblana
dress. Examples of daily life in the 18th and 19th centuries can be
seen on the second floor (Tues to Sun, 10 am to 5 pm).The ideal next stop is the Calle de los Dulces (6 Oriente). This street
is home to stores such as La Fama, El Lirio, Casa Borola and La Central
which sell traditional local candies. In the windows of these candy stores
you will see such local specialties as gaznates, baked muéganos, peanut
polvorón cookies, canelones, tortitas de Santa Clara, camotes, lemon
peels stuffed with coconut, borrachitos, orange flavored donuts, pumpkin
seed marzipan with pineapple, and other sugary treats.
Mollete de Santa Clara: this little known candy is traditionally made for celebrations in honor of Santa Clara on August 12. It is a pastry filled with pastry cream and coated in a thin layer of pumpkin seed candy. Candy stores such as La Rosa (6 Oriente 12) and Clarisa (6 Oriente 207) still make it, but only between June and September.
mDRecommends
Around Los Sapos On the corner of Juan de Palafox y Mendoza Avenue and 4 Sur Street
you will find the Templo del Espíritu Santo, known as La Compañía.
The current building was completed just a few months before the
Jesuit order was expelled from New Spain in 1767. An ironwork portico
and Baroque facade form the entrance to this church of three naves.
When you visit you shouldn’t miss the 17th-century paintings by José
Rodríguez Carnero in the vestry.
A short walk from here, in 6 Sur Street, is the Callejón de los Sapos.
This alley is lined with antique stores and on weekend mornings a street
market selling old and entertaining treasures is set up at the bottom of
the alley in the Plazuela de los Sapos. A small cantina, La Pasita, is on
one of the corners and has served a tasty grape liqueur here since 1916.
There is absolutely no excuse for not returning to this area when you’re
hungry or when the sun goes down for an a la carte meal at the Hotel Mesón Sacristía de la Compañía (6 Sur 304). The cream of bean soup,
pipián sauces and the mole sauce known as mancha mantel (literally
“tablecloth stain”) are all memorable dishes.
On this same street is the Casa de los Hermanos Serdán, which has
been converted into the Museo Regional de la Revolución. The facade
still displays bullet holes from an attack by government forces in 1910,
since this was the home of Aquiles, Máximo and Carmen Serdán who all
supported the rebellion organized by Francisco I. Madero. The lower part
of the museum serves to recreate daily life at the beginning of the 20th
century, while the second floor uses posters and illustrations to narrate
the growing discontent and subsequent armed revolution of Mexicans
tired of the constant reelection of President Porfirio Díaz (6 Oriente 206; Tues to Sun, 10 am to 5 pm).
The Museo Regional Casa de Alfeñique features unique and valuable pieces.
You can sample the flavors of Puebla in the Calle de los Dulces.
The Casa de los Hermanos Serdán was the scene of major historical events.
Amazing antiques can be found in the Callejón de los Sapos.
The Hotel Mesón Sacristía de la Compañía is a pleasant spot for enjoying a good meal.
17 16
S T A R S O F T H E S T A T EDiscover Puebla
2DAY FROM THE CATHEDRAL TO THE CONVENTS
Trees and Books You can’t visit Puebla without taking time to admire its Catedral (16 de Septiembre and 3 Oriente). Construction was begun in 1575 and in 1649 it was consecrated by Bishop Juan de Palafox y Mendoza. Since construction took so long the building incorporated different
styles that include the Herrerian, Baroque and Neoclassical. The grey
quarried stone facade is covered in reliefs and features fluted columns
between two towers measuring 230-foot high. There are five naves
inside: a central nave, two processional naves and another two with
niche chapels—each one exhibiting paintings by Miguel Cabrera that
feature the Way of the Cross (Via Crucis). The main altar, known as
the Altar de los Reyes, is made from a single piece of onyx. Facing
the altar is the cypress projected by Manuel Tolsá in 1797 with the
four doctors of the church protecting the Immaculate Conception,
the patron saint of Puebla.
Art Collections On 15 de Septiembre Street you will find the Casa del Deán, a building
dating from 1580 that was owned by Don Tomás de la Plaza, the dean
of the Cathedral. If you pass through the entrance in the Renaissance
facade you will find an interesting example of non-religious 16th-
century mural painting (Tues to Sun, 10 am to 5 pm). You then need
to walk to the Museo Amparo which boasts an extensive collection
of pre-Hispanic art, although its most attractive pieces are from the
colonial period and 19th century. There are three rooms for temporary
exhibitions of contemporary art and from the terrace you can look out
across the domes of Puebla to the volcanoes (2 Sur 708; Weds to Mon, 10 am to 6 pm).
A couple of blocks from the Cathedral is the Museo José Luis Bello y González (3 Poniente 302; Tues to Sun, 10 am to 5 pm), a 19th-
century building that houses a collection of more than 3,000 works
of art belonging to Mariano Bello y Acedo. The 13 rooms of the
museum are home to examples of esthetics from around the world
which range from inlaid desks, a cabinet with a map of Manila from
the 18th century and spheres of life carved in ivory, to alabaster
sculptures, Meissen porcelain and paintings by Giuseppe Molteni
and Juan Tinoco. Also near the Zócalo, but to the west, is the Museo Universitario Casa de los Muñecos (2 Norte 4; Mon to Sun, 10 am to 5 pm) which is well worth a visit. The building’s facade is Talavera and
serves as testament to what the craftsmen of Puebla are capable of.
Inside, the rooms are filled with mummies, stuffed animals and
colonial paintings. In addition, this is where you will find the Casa de los Muñecos restaurant, with a menu featuring such delights
as a cream of cashew soup and salmon in a passion fruit sauce.
To the west, on pedestrian street 5 de Mayo, rises the iron trimmed
horizon of the Templo de Santo Domingo. This Dominican building
Facing the Casa del Deán is a restaurant where it is impossible to resist the quintonil soup or the green pipián sauce: it’s called the Mural de los Poblanos (16 de Septiembre 506).
mDRecommends
When you leave the church by the exit to the right of the atrium
you will enter Puebla’s main square or Zócalo. On the edge of the
Zócalo you will find the Palacio del Ayuntamiento and the arches
filled with busy restaurants and cafés, while in the square itself people
stroll between trees and balloons or take a seat near one of the many
fountains. The old Colegio de San Juan is on the other side of the
cathedral. On the top floor you’ll find the Casa de la Cultura, which
in turn, houses the Biblioteca Palafoxiana (5 Oriente). This library was
founded by Bishop Juan de Palafox y Mendoza in 1646 when he donated
5,000 books to the Tridentine Colleges of San Juan, San Pedro and
San Pablo. The collection grew over the years and today boasts over
45,000 volumes. The beautiful cedar shelves housing the books date
from the 18th century and the collection includes such treasures as the
Nuremberg Chronicle by Hartmann Schedel, in the incunable edition
of 1493, and the Practical Botanical History by Joseph Galeatium from
1761 (Mon to Fri, 10 am to 5 pm; Sat and Sun, 10 am to 4 pm).
The heart of the Angelópolis is located in its main square.
The Biblioteca Palafoxiana was the first public library in the Americas.
The Catedral decorations feature gold and silver.
Galería Tesoros de la Catedral, a showcase for treasures for years unseen.
The streets of Puebla promise an encounter with beautiful mansions such as the Casa de los Muñecos.
The Museo Amparo, one of the most important art centers in Mexico, is well worth a visit.
Besides housing the Biblioteca Palafoxiana, the Casa de Cultura
is also where you’ll find the new Galería Tesoros de la Catedral (5 Oriente 5; Tues to Sun, 10 am to 5 pm), a tiny gallery that seeks
to give exposure to the artistic treasures inside the cathedral that the
public doesn’t usually get to see. The first object is the cypress model
used by Manuel Tolsá for the large scale Altar de los Reyes. You can
also see the remains of a Solomonic column that used to form part of
the altar, as well as an alabaster image of the Immaculate Conception.
Time-worn sculptures and oil paintings of religious subjects abound
in the adjoining room, used for temporary exhibitions.
Every Friday and Saturday at 8:45 and 9:30 pm, the cathedral is animated by video mapping that displays an overview of subjects of import to Puebla on the stone facade. History, food, Talavera, and festivals are represented in colorful images that dance across the facade of the majestic church.
Don’t Miss
Ast
rid
Rod
rígu
ez
19 18
S T A R S O F T H E S T A T EDiscover Puebla
The World of Nuns Two 17th-century buildings here are worth a visit, the first being the
Ex Convento de Santa Rosa which was home to nuns from 1740
to 1861. Today the former convent is the site of the Museo de Arte
Popular Poblano and its seven rooms exhibit handicrafts from different
regions in the state. While there you will also get a feel for the isolated
way the nuns lived and your imagination will fly when you come to
the celebrated Talavera kitchen where it is claimed the famous mole
poblano was first created (3 Norte 1203; Tues to Sun, 10 am to 5 pm). Not far from here Augustinian nuns also lived sealed off from the world
in the Ex Convento de Santa Mónica, built in the traditional petatillo
style (a mixture of red brick and tiles). Daily life for the cloistered nuns
was simple yet filled with spirituality and this can be felt in every room.
The Pinacoteca (art gallery), as well as the furniture and personal items,
help you enter into this formerly isolated world. In the adjoining church
there is a venerated image of the Señor de las Maravillas (Lord of the
Marvels) (18 Poniente 103; Tues to Sun, 10 am to 5 pm).
3 Wonderful MansionsCasareyna The facilities of this ten-room hotel have witnessed the passing of centuries, with the hotel itself the product of the transformation of three 16th-century mansions by architect Ricardo Legorreta. Thick walls, wooden ceilings and hand carved furniture help create the atmosphere while the restaurant is one of the few to prepare traditional regional dishes the way they should be made. The hotel also exhibits and sells Talavera de la Reyna (Privada 2 Oriente 1007; T. 01222 232 0032; casareyna.com).
Casona San AntonioAn 18th-century house now serves as this 14 room hotel that promises rest for anyone who crosses its beautiful threshold. As you climb the stairs you can admire an image of San Antonio de Padua, who gives the hotel its name, created using Talavera. The interior patio is now a restaurant and the hotel offers a spa and temazcal (steam bath) (9 Oriente 203; T. 01222 246 1620; casonasanantonio.com).
El sueño Hotel + SpaWhere the orchards of an 18th-century house called Alcántara once stood you will now find this hotel. Each room is uniquely decorated and bears the name of a woman who never gave up on her dreams, such as Sor Juana and Frida Kahlo. There are patios filled with plants and fountains as well as the aroma of truly fantastic flavors from the kitchen, all of which leads guests to delay the moment when they must finally go off to bed (9 Oriente 12; T. 01222 232 6489; elsueno-hotel.com).
The interests and tastes of businessman José Luis Bello are reflected in this important collection.
Interesting corners and historical episodes await you when strolling through the Museo de Arte Popular.
was constructed between 1571 and 1659 and while the quarried stone
facade is very sober, inside the abundant decoration stands in stark
contrast to the exterior. This is the home of the splendid Rosario Chapel which is coated with gilded stucco and gold leaf. Next to the
church, in the old entrance to the Dominican convent, is another of the
Bello family museums, the Museo José Luis Bello y Zetina (5 de Mayo 409; Tues to Sun, 10 am to 4 pm). This is the house where José Luis
Bello y Zetina, grandson of José Luis Bello y González, lived. The
valuable domestic appliances and an extensive collection of pictures
—on the walls hang paintings by Murillo and Zurbarán—, fill everyone
who visits with a sense of wonder.
DescanseríaAnother one of Puebla’s stately, 18th-century houses that was remodeled to become a hotel. It was once the home of the Count of Ovando. A large central courtyard serves as a focal point for its 24 rooms, distributed on three floors. The restaurant, Cinco Cocina Urbana, delights the palate with delicacies such as fava bean salad, carne asada tacos, and bass al pastor (3 Oriente 627; T. 01222 246 0001; descanseria.com).
Mesón Sacristía de la Compañía Located in Callejón de los Sapos, this boutique hotel has got an historic outlook. Each room is individually decorated with rustic furniture and antique objects available for purchase. Gold plate frames the heavy doors, the restaurant starts in the inner courtyard, and the menu is replete with moles and other traditional Poblano food (6 Sur 304; T. 01222 242 3554; mesones-sacristia.com).
Ast
rid
Ro
drí
gu
ez
Ast
rid
Ro
drí
gu
ez
Ast
rid
Ro
drí
gu
ez
21 20
S T A R S O F T H E S T A T EDiscover Puebla
3DAY FROM TRADITION TO THE NEW
Nights of Legend at Lago Concordia provide a light show of projected images that tell the story of the China Poblana using a curtain of water as a backdrop (Thurs to Sun, at 8:45 pm and 9:30 pm; free).
Don’t Miss
Puebla’s CemitasThere are a couple of markets that should also be visited and one of these is the Melchor Ocampo or Mercado del Carmen (21 Oriente). Here, at the Las Poblanitas stall, they have been preparing that irresistible Puebla delicacy, cemitas, for thirty years. Original cemitas, or filled rolls, feature milanesa (steak in breadcrumbs), ham, avocado,
onion in vinegar, chile slices, farmer cheese and fresh pápalo leaves.
The result is a stack of exquisite flavors. The other market was
recently opened and is called the Mercado de los Sabores (4 Poniente 1106), where you can try chalupas, memelas and picaditas, chiles en
nogada (when in season), as well as blue corn gruel, lamb mixiotes
and the famous cemitas.
Centro Cívico CulturalYou can’t miss a trip to Cerro de Guadalupe, the hill to the northeast
of Puebla offering a spectacular view of the city. That’s where you
will find the two forts where the famous Battle of Puebla took place
on May 5, 1862, when the Mexican army defeated enemy forces
during the Second French Intervention in Mexico.
The Fuerte de Guadalupe recounts the events in its Site Museum.
The eloquent Plaza de la Victoria is next door. Fuerte de Loreto follows
suit with its Museo de la No Intervención, where you can see the
letters President Benito Juárez wrote to General Ignacio Zaragoza
about the armed struggle. But it’s not all history lessons at the site
where the two forts stand. The surrounding area is comprised of
In the northeast of the city you will find the historical Forts, business tourism and areas for the entire family such as Lago Concordia with its China Poblana show.
Cemitas are emblematic of Puebla’s cuisine and are very tasty.
Co
urt
esy
of
SE
CT
UR
Pu
eb
la
modern buildings, gardens, and squares that form a complex called
the Centro Cívico Cultural 5 de Mayo. The Museo de la Evolución
(Museum of Evolution), a Planetarium and the Centro Expositor y de Convenciones (Expo and Convention Center) are located in the
highest area. Directly across from them, there is Plaza de las Améri-cas, which contains Auditorio de la Reforma and Museo Regional de Puebla. In the three exhibition rooms of the regional museum you can
quickly see Puebla’s history and traditions. Further below there are
Lago de la Concordia and Mirador de la Mantarraya, with its undulat-
ing design by architect Enrique Norten. Below there is a cafeteria and
handicrafts gallery. The city lights extend in the distance.
Parque Temático 5 de Mayo is next to the lake. The tree-filled
theme park is where the floats used during the 5 de Mayo parade are
now housed. The creativity of the people of Puebla and the things that
move them are gathered here. You can see it in the reproduction of
the gazebo of the Magical Town of Chignahuapan and the Biblioteca
Palafoxiana. A locomotive, for example, recalls the revolutionary move-
ment of the early 20th century, while an iron sculpture pays homage
to the steed of General Ignacio Zaragoza.
The highway named after the famous military officer and where
you’ll find the mausoleum that forever remembers him, is the avenue
separating Parque Temático 5 de Mayo from another, recently opened
public space, Parque Paseo del Teleférico. The cable car that departs
from the Centro Expositor ends here. The slowly descending gondolas
allow for a view of all of Puebla. Almost near the end of the cable car
ride there is a blue and white geometric mural that can be seen from
above. It was painted on the roofs of the numerous houses below to
delight those passing by on high. Once on the ground, passengers
are greeted to a dancing fountain in the middle of a spiral tower
that serves as lookout.
Ast
rid
Ro
drí
gu
ez
(3)
A water screen over Lago de la Concordia makes a novel surface for projecting various tales of Puebla. Shows can be seen Thurs to Sun, at 8:45 and 9:30 pm. Take your time to stroll around Centro Cívico Cultural 5 de Mayo and stay after dark to see the images that arise over the water.
Don’t Miss
Parque Temático 5 de Mayo brings together iconic features of Puebla, such as the Voladores de Cuetzalan.
Los Fuertes, a place for family fun: art, green spaces, and plenty of history.
Parque Paseo del Teleférico, a new way to see the ever beautiful Angelópolis.
23 22
S T A R S O F T H E S T A T EDiscover Puebla
The Modern Angelópolis In the south of the city there is a different Puebla of large and
modern spaces. This is where you will find the Centro Comerical Angelópolis—which proudly boasts a Luxury Hall with an abundance
of luxury brands—and the stores, restaurants and bars of the La Isla
and Platinum malls just across the road. Osa Mayor Avenue runs
through here, and in the middle is the long strip of the recently
opened Parque Lineal, a park conceived as a horizon with elevated
bridges and cycle paths that connect the Angelópolis area to the
Jardín del Arte and, further along, the EcoParque Metropolitano
and the Paseo del Río Atoyac.
The Parque Lineal is ideal for cyclists and pedestrians. In the
middle rises the Estrella de Puebla, a 260-foot high Ferris Wheel—
considered the tallest of its kind in Latin America—with 54 slowly
turning gondolas. From this elevated perspective you can see the
city center as well as the volcanoes and the green areas around
the Ferris Wheel, which together offer exciting contrasts. It is also
worth riding the wheel at night when everything is lit up. Next to the
wheel jets of water leap from a playful fountain and together these
elements create a lively scene with people dodging columns of
water that are turned off and on or change color to the rhythm
of the music broadcast over speakers.
The Jardín del Arte is an area for sports that forms part of the
Reserva Territorial Atlixcáyotl-Quetzalcóatl. It manages to squeeze
everything into its 32 acres: two jogging trails and a tartan track, a
soccer field, three boating lakes visited by storks, two restaurants and
barbeque areas for picnics among the acacias (Sirio s/n, Concepción Las Lajas; Mon to Sun, 6 am to 9 pm). The EcoParque Metropolitano
offers almost 40 acres of vegetation from the state’s different regions.
A walk through this park is to travel from the ceibas of the Mixteca
region to the cacti of the Tehuacán-Cuicatlán Biosphere Reserve.
It also includes a surprising collection of orchids and bromeliads
kept under an onyx dome (Gabino Barreda, Concepción Guadalupe; Mon to Sun, 6 am to 6 pm).
The Paseo del Río Atoyac also has a role in addition to its function
as a recreational area: the facilities here are used for educational
purposes to raise awareness concerning care for the environment and
the sustainable use of water. There is an information module as well
as workshops and also guided tours, all of which serve to focus on
the work being done to recover the river basin (Vía Atlixcáyotl 2501; Mon to Sun, 6 am to 9 pm).
To visit the numerous parks and green areas around the Estrella it is worth renting a bicycle to make the most of the bicycle paths.
Don’t Miss
The Jardín del Arte is an area for exercise and enjoyment.
The Plaza Platinum, where celebration and fun start the night off.
The Estrella de Puebla is a major feature of the capital. According to the Guinness Book of Records it is the tallest in Latin America.
Auditorio Metropolitano, the work of architect Pedro Ramírez
Vázquez is next to Jardín del Arte. The inside is used as a stage
for whatever excites the people of Puebla: concerts, opera recitals,
exhibitions, movie debuts, book presentations, international festivals,
corporate events, and more. At night its facade lights up as the
hubbub of the restaurants and cafeterias at its entrance permeates
the surrounding atmosphere (Sirio, at the corner of Pléyades; T. 01222 122 1100, ext. 3100; Mon to Fri, 9 am to 3 pm, and 4 pm to 7 pm).
Another green space worth checking out is the recently remodeled
Parque Ecológico. Its 138.4 acres make for a pleasant respite amidst the
hustle and bustle of the city. There are soccer fields and basketball and
padel courts, a jogging track and a bike trail, which you can use with
the bikes and quadricycles for rent on site. Pepper, pine, and fruit trees
abound. Perhaps the most enchanting scene is the lake surrounded by
its weeping willows. You can take boat rides and feed the ducks while ad-
venturers soar overhead on the zipline. You can spot herons and black-bel-
lied whistling ducks, or pijijes. Woodpeckers can be heard in the distance.
But if you’re really looking for an encounter with exotic and endangered
birds, check out the dome that is the aviary. Miniature golf, a playground,
grills and shelters, and a play fountain round out the facilities (24 Sur s/n, between 35 Oriente and 30 Sur; daily, 6 am to 9 pm).
New Museums to SeeThe Museo del Ejército y Fuerza Aérea Mexicanos is a few yards from
Santuario de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe. Its doors opened with the
aim of acquainting the public, by means of its 12 exhibition rooms, with
the history of the Mexican army since pre-Hispanic times to the present
day. It’s located in the old Colegio de San Francisco Xavier, an 18th-
century building that belonged to the Jesuits before being converted into
a penitentiary in the 19th century. In 1863 the site was used as a fort by
the Eastern Army during the French siege of the city of Puebla. The mu-
seum display starts by telling the story of the building. Then it goes back
to colonial times, when flint and spark weapons were part of warfare.
The ideals of the Ejército Trigarante after the struggle for independence,
foreign interventions, the Mexican Revolution, and the participation of
Squadron 201 in World War II are among the subjects of the exhibition.
While touring the museum you can see a Galand 45 revolver that once
belonged to Porfirio Díaz, as well as the modern Xiuhcóatl FX-05 assault
rifle, used by the Mexican army today (13 Sur 103; T. 01222 232 2645; Tues to Fri, 10 am to 5 pm; Sat and Sun, 10 am to 4 pm).
Parque Ecológico–remodeled! Come and enjoy it to the max.
The lake is one of Parque Ecológico’s biggest draws for those who like to walk.
Museo del Ejército y Fuerza Aérea Mexicanos, everything from colonial times to World War II.
Ast
rid
Ro
drí
gu
ez
(3)
25 24
S T A R S O F T H E S T A T EDiscover Puebla
Nearby…
Africam Safari Located at Km 16.5 of the Puebla-Valsequillo road, this safari park and zoo cares for more than 3,500 animals of 300 species from different parts of the world. Here the animals live in open spaces similar to their native habitats and they can be seen from the comfort of your own car or by taking one of the park buses. You shouldn’t miss the butterfly house, the bat cave, the kangaroo path and the Louise Wardle de Camacho Botanical Garden with its selection of plants from arid and semi-arid regions (Mon to Sun, 10 am to 5 pm; T. 01222 281 7000; www.africamsafari.com).
Forest Flower Located in Amozoc, just six miles east of the city, this is officially called the Parque Estatal Lázaro Cárdenas del Río and covers an area of roughly 1,480 acres which is filled with oak trees. There are a number of attractions on offer such as cabins available for weekend getaways, camping areas, an aviary, a reptile house and a petting zoo. In addition there are suspension bridges, ropes and nets and a 260-foot zip line that is traveled in just 10 seconds (Carril a San Bartolo s/n, Ex Hacienda San Bartolo Flor del Bosque; Mon to Sun, 8 am to 4 pm).
Direct contact with the animals…
Feeding the animals… That is Africam Safari.
Seeing nature up close…
Pony rides for the kids…
Gua
cam
ole
Pro
ject
/ M
D (
4)
The old textile factory La Constancia is a little further from down-town. It started in 1835 on the banks of the Río Atoyac and operated until 1991. Today the space where spools of thread used to be pro-duced is now occupied by three very worthwhile museums (Obreros Independientes Ave., Luz Obrera; Ex Fábrica La Constancia; Tues to Sun, 10 am to 5 pm).
The first is Casa de la Música de Viena en Puebla. The interac-
tive museum features 16 rooms and a 315-capacity auditorium. While
touring the museum you can learn about the life and music of various
classical composers such as Joseph Haydn, considered the father of
the symphony and the string quartet. Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart is
remembered with a clavichord in his room, while a Yamaha player
piano pays tribute to Ludwig van Beethoven. You can also see a movie
with Pedro Infante playing the role of Mexican composer Juventino
Rosas, a painting of Gustav Mahler leading an orchestra brings to
mind the famous maestro. Finally, you’ll come to the room of the vir-
tual conductor, where the public can direct its own group of musicians.
Ast
rid
Ro
drí
gu
ez
(3)
The second museum is Casa del Títere, Marionetas Mexicanas.
The 15 themed rooms of the house of Mexican puppets cover fables,
tales and even Mexican history. The circus, folk music, literature, bull-
fighting, opera, mariachis, and las tehuanas (the traditional dress of
the Tehuana people) make up the collection. Puppets by Rosete Aran-
da and the Cueto family can also be found on display. Here you’ll learn
the history of the string-operated marionettes as well as the difference
between a marionette, a puppet, and a guignol. There’s also an Italian
puppet theater with animated movies and live shows.
The old factory is also home to Museo Infantil La Constancia. Like
the bygone Imagina, which used to be next to the Centro Expositor y
de Convenciones in the area of Los Fuertes, this interactive museum
is designed to awaken children’s curiosity in nature, science, and tech-
nology. Audio and light experiments, pulleys, and bubble chambers
invite little ones to discover the museum’s different modules. The lives
of great thinkers such as Isaac Newton, Albert Einstein, and Archime-
des of Syracuse are plastered on the walls, while guides explain the
color spectrum and how gravity works to the children.
Museo Casa de la Música de Viena, the perfect place for music lovers.
Museo Casa del Títere, where objects come to life.
Museo Infantil de La Constancia, where science and fun are one!
27 26
S T A R S O F T H E S T A T EDiscover Puebla
CholulaThe City of Churches
holula, the sacred city of Toltecs expelled from Tula, was always destined to be a place of worship with the arrival of the Spanish. Proof of this can be clearly seen in the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios built on top of the Great Pyramid, the ringing bells of the countless churches and the intricate Santa María Tonantzintla altarpieces which capture the attention of the faithful.
c
A Stroll Through Church DomesFive miles to the west of the city is the “double” town of Cholula, which brings together San Pedro and San Andrés. Each of these towns has its own main square and church, but they are so close to each other that the border has been lost and they are both thought of as the same town. A tour of San Pedro should begin in Plaza de la Concordia, which is flanked by the Convento de San Gabriel, a building that looks more like a fort than a church since its atrium fence features crenellations.
SAN PEDRO AND SAN ANDRÉS
Some streets are lined with colorful walls.
The elegant and joyful Convento de San Gabriel is one of the oldest in the capital.
A veritable feast of flowers and fruit, the Mercado de San Pedro (5 Norte 10) is a good place to go if you’d like to find out what “elephant ears” (large bean filled tortillas), cholulteca soup (made using chicken, leeks and bacon), cecina tacos and huauzontle in batter taste like.
mDRecommends
The convent was built by Franciscans in 1549 on the site of the ruins of a temple dedicated to Quetzalcóatl. While the church facade is austere, inside there are ribbed dome ceilings and paintings that tell the story of the life of St. Francis of Assisi. At the Portal de Peregrinos (Pilgrim’s Door) you will find the Franciscan Library and a small
gallery exhibiting sacred art. The Capilla de la Tercera Orden is
attention grabbing with its Baroque entrance and Solomonic columns,
although nothing can compare with the Capilla Real or Capilla de los Naturales which transports visitors far away, to a mosque, with
its 49-domed roof.
Also at Concordia Square is the Portal Guerrero, a long gallery
of arches filled with restaurants, and the Parroquia de San Pedro,
a 17th-century building with the highest tower in Cholula. Inside
there is a painting of St. Michael the Archangel with his haughty
expression and helmet adorned with feathers, the work of Cristóbal
de Villalpando. On the opposite corner to the parish church is the
Casa del Caballero Águila, which bears this name due to the low relief
that crosses the entrance with an eagle warrior, which was built in
stages over a long period of time. On the ground floor, which dates
from the 16th century, are the six rooms of the Museo de la Ciudad de Cholula which exhibits a collection of more than 2,300 pieces from the
pre-Hispanic and colonial periods. The upper floor wasn’t built until
the 17th century and is used for temporary exhibitions (4 Oriente 1; Thurs to Tues, 9 am to 3 pm).
The Pyramid and the Night Cholula just wouldn’t be the same without the Santuario de Nuestra Señora de los Remedios, the church built by the Spanish and which
uses as its base a past filled with indigenous gods they wished to
bury. This church was built on top of the Grand Tlachihualtépetl
Ma
rco
s F
err
o /
MD
1DAY
29 28
S T A R S O F T H E S T A T EDiscover Puebla
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
Secretaria de Turismo Puebla (Puebla Ministry of Tourism)
3 S
UR
2 N
OR
TE
5 N
OR
TE
7 N
OR
TE
2 S
UR
4 S
UR
4 N
OR
TE
6 S
UR
8 S
UR
10 S
UR
6 N
OR
TE
12
SU
R
2 N
OR
TE
10 PONIENTE
10 ORIENTE8 ORIENTE
6 ORIENTE
4 ORIENTE
2 ORIENTE
10 PONIENTE
6 PONIENTE
8 PONIENTE
4 PONIENTE
2 ORIENTE
3 ORIENTE
3 PONIENTE
17 ORIENTE
5 ORIENTE
8 PONIENTE6 PONIENTE
4 PONIENTE2 PONIENTE
3 ORIENTE
7 PONIENTE
9 PONIENTE
REFORMA
15 OTE.
ÁVILA CAMACHO
Zócalo de SanAndrés Cholula
Zócalo de SanPedro Cholula
Cerro dela Cruz
1 4 O R I E N T E
12 ORIENTE
MORELOS
HIDALGO5
DE
MA
YO
3 N
OR
TE
MIG
UE
L A
LE
MÁ
N
5 D
E
MA
YO
CARRETERA FEDERAL 150 MÉXICO-PUEBLA
12 ORIENTE
RU
TA D
E QU
ETZA
LCÓATL
A Cuautla
123
4
567
89
10
11
12
13
14
13
15
16
17
To Puebla
To México
To Tonantzintla
Plaza de la CConvento de San Gabriel Capilla Real o de los NaturPortal GuerrParroquia de San PCasa del CaballerCiudad de Cholula)Mercado de San PSantuario de Nuestrde los RemediosGran PirámMuseo de SitCentro Artesanal Cultury GastronómContainer CityTo the Museo de la TOcho30To the Templo de Santa María TonantzintlaTo the Templo de San FrAcatepecTo the National InstOptics and Electr
1.2.3.4.5.6.
7.8.
9.10.11.
12.13.14.15.
16.
17.
San Pedro and San Andrés Cholula General Information
Connectivity: Direct route to Cholula.
From Mexico City or other destinations: When you arrive at the CAPU (bus station), head for the Suburbanos area; buses leave for Cholula every 10 minutes. There are direct and intermediate services available. From Puebla’s Zócalo:Suburban buses leave for Cholula from a small station at 6 Poniente on the corner of 13 Norte.
Tourist InformationTown Hall16 de Septiembre Ave., No. 102, Centro, San Andrés Cholula.T. (01222) 214 0230, ext. 3.
Places of Interest:
Plaza de la ConcordiaConvento de San Gabriel Capilla Real o de los NaturalesPortal GuerreroParroquia de San PedroCasa del Caballero Águila (Museo de la Ciudad de Cholula)Mercado de San PedroSantuario de Nuestra Señora de los RemediosGran Pirámide de Tlachihualtépetl Museo de SitioCentro Artesanal Cultural y Gastronómico XelhuaContainer CityTo the Museo de la Talavera AlarcaOcho30To the Templo de Santa María TonantzintlaTo the Templo de San Francisco AcatepecTo the National Institute of Astrophysics, Optics and Electronics (INAOE)
1.2.3.4.5.6.
7.8.
9.10.11.
12.13.14.15.
16.
17.
Located right in the main square of San Andrés, Ocho30 (3 Poniente) is a restaurant you simply must visit for the strawberry and gorgonzola cheese salad, beef Carpaccio and mushroom risotto delivered directly to your table.
mDRecommends
Good food and nightlife can be enjoyed in Container City.
The monumental pyramid stands in contrast to old colonial Mexico.
Pyramid, which over time became completely overgrown by vegetation and now appears as nothing more than a hill. The church was consecrated in 1549 and since that time it can be seen up high on the hill with its beautiful raised dome covered in tiles, holding imperceptible conversations with the smoking giant to the east, the Popocatépetl volcano.
You can climb up to the sanctuary, but before doing this you should check out the archeological site of the Great Pyramid. Almost 5 miles of tunnels have been excavated and this allows you to see the different construction stages of this ceremonial center, the Patio de los Altares and certain murals such as the Pulque Drinkers and the
Grasshoppers. The Museo de Sitio serves as a fitting end to your visit
with its model of the pyramid, skeletons, ceramic pieces and replicas
of the murals (14 Poniente; Mon to Sun, 9 am to 6 pm). You should also
visit the Centro Artesanal Cultural y Gastronómico Xelhua next to
the overgrown pyramid.
San Andrés is definitely a town for young people thanks to its vibrant
nightlife. In this part of Cholula you will find Container City (12 Oriente), a miniature city made from different colored sea containers. Everything
here is piled up or starts where the previous container finishes, passing
quickly from a restaurant to a bar or from a store to a gallery. It is
best to visit when the sun has gone down and the Santuario de los Remedios is lit in the background, when laughter and music fill the
short streets of this recycled city. Then it’s on to the noisy 14 Oriente
Street with its bars and nightclubs which attract the night birds.
Before leaving Cholula you must see the traditional handicrafts
made here since colonial times. The best place to see them is
the Museo de la Talavera Alarca next to the Talavera de la Reyna
workshop/store. This well-lit museum offers an overview of the
use of Talavera from the 16th century to the present day and the
collection features more than 300 works by such artists as Vicente
Rojo, Juan Soriano, Sergio Hernández, Francisco Toledo and Javier
Marín (Lateral Sur 3510, Direct to Cholula; Mon to Fri, 9 am to 7 pm; Sat and Sun, 9 am to 3 pm).
Ern
est
o P
olo
/ M
D
31 30
S T A R S O F T H E S T A T EDiscover Puebla
National Institute of Astrophysics, Optics and Electronics (inaoe)If you are in Tonantzintla you should take the opportunity to visit this institute since it has served to prepare specialized researchers and professors since 1971. This was the astrophysics observatory which took over from the one in Tacubaya and where scientists such as Luis Enrique Erro and Guillermo Haro worked. Using the famous Schmidt Camera, roughly 15,000 photographs were taken of space and this led to the discovery of stars, novas and supernovas, blue galaxies and comets (Luis Enrique Erro 1, Tonantzintla; T. 01222 266 3100; www.inaoep.mx; for visits you need to make an appointment).
The interior of the Acatepec church features gold-plated decorations with saints and angels.
Major discoveries have been made here.
In the 1940s this observatory was one of the most important in the Americas and the world.
Nearby…
Templo de Santa María TonantzintlaJust a few miles from Cholula is one of Mexico’s most amazing churches. The Templo de Santa María Tonantzintla was completed by indigenous workers in the 18th century for the adoration of the Virgin Mary, using the name of the Immaculate Conception. It was from the virgin that they had learned to await the fertility of their women and fields, and in exchange they offered the first fruits of their harvests as their ancestors had done for the Náhuatl goddess of mother earth, Tonantzin. Using the expressive scope of the Baroque style, they managed to capture their own universe in the plaster: dark-skinned angels, children with feathered headdress, fruit and ears of corn. There is no corner that hasn’t been decorated, leaving no gaps and demonstrating a lot of love and care (Reforma Norte s/n).
Templo de San Francisco AcatepecJust over half a mile further on you will see this church, the construction of which commenced in 1560 but wasn’t concluded until two centuries later. This is why the church facade is very different to those usually used for Franciscan churches, being completed during the Baroque period and featuring amazing mosaics of multicolored Talavera. The carved wood altarpieces previously found inside were burned to a cinder in the fire of 1939 so the Pantle family assumed the responsibility of replacing them in the way the Cholultecas traditionally worked plaster (Km 13 on the Puebla-Atlixco road).
A prime example of Indigenous Baroque expression.
Decorations that clearly show the religious syncretism.
A beautiful portico featuring a colored Talavera tile mosaic.
The Templo de San Francisco Acatepec is a magical and treasured space.
Discover Puebla
32
These are the Magical Towns of Puebla, where the people fondly care for the colonial buildings, pay tribute to their natural surroundings, and traditions are not forgotten.
CHAPTER2
ownsT9 Magical
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
35 34
M A G I C A L T O W N SDiscover Puebla
What to Do Saturday• Wake up in the foothills of Cerro de San Miguel at the hotel
Posada Los Alcatraces (14 Poniente 1101; T. 01244 446 1212; posadalosalcatraces.com). It’s full of gardens and fountains, with 11 rooms, spa and pool. Its restaurant, Valentina, boasts a menu of international cuisine. You have to try the rose petal salad with red wine and strawberry dressing.
• Sit down for a coffee and watch as day turns to night at the tiled gazebo, the heart of downtown Atlixco. The Parroquia de Santa María de la Natividad stands in one corner of the main square. People go in and out of the church, strolling among the trees or passing the time at any of the number of restaurants beneath the arches. You’ll want to check out the Town Hall for the murals by Juan Manuel Martínez Caltenco.
• Constitución Street runs a short distance from right next to the church to where it ends in front of Ex Convento del Carmen.
• Halfway there, stop at Helados Ximitl (Constitución 6; T. 01244 445 0830), the ice cream shop where, limited only by the seasons and his imagination, Gerardo Ximitl experiments with flavors. There is
chile en nogada, fruit punch, Sevillian polvorón, candied pumpkin,
pinole, and cricket.
The BeginningWhen in Atlixco your gaze is always up; that’s because it’s the
direction where you’ll find the things that matter the most: the
volcano and its cloud of smoke, the flowers clinging to the balconies,
and the churches and towers. For example, there’s the beautiful and
solitary Iglesia de Santa María de la Asunción de Acapetlahuacan,
hidden behind the old walls of the now silent Franciscan monastery.
The people of Atlixco walk the streets below with their heads held
high. They are the owners of a joyful town, where the beauty is in the
details, and they know it. That’s why they celebrate their festivals with
flower carpets, dances, and comparsas (traditionally costumed street
parades), and with bridges and figures adorned with lights.
Atlixco
Popocatépetl, wonderful and imposing.
Monumental flower carpets adorn the main streets.
ConnectivityMexico City92 mi / 2:37 hHighways 190 and 150
City of Puebla19.9 mi / 36 minFederal road 190, highway 438
City of Tlaxcala38.5 mi / 55 minFederal road 190, highway 438, Puebla-Tlaxcala highway
Izúcar de Matamoros53.4 mi / 1:15 hFederal road 160, highway 438
How to Get ThereBy Road:From the city of Puebla take Atlixcáyotl and head down federal road Atlixco-Puebla, continuing along a stretch of highway 438 before returning to the federal road.
By Bus:From the city of Puebla – CAPU:Oro
Tourist Information Plaza de Armas 1, Centro. T. (01244) 445 1966.
Visitpuebla.travel/atlixco
Parroquia de Santa María de la Natividad, warm and inviting.
Posada Los Alcatraces, the perfect place for relaxation.
Helados Ximitl, exotic flavors delight the palate.
With the volcano Popocatépetl as its
companion, the Magical Town of Atlixco greets every
day covered in flowers. The warm climate has
marked the destiny of its people, who work diligently to grow colorful petals and
delicate leaves that liven up the everyday.
Ast
rid
Ro
drí
gu
ez
(4)
Da
vid
Pa
nia
gu
a
37 36
M A G I C A L T O W N SDiscover Puebla
• Check out Ex Convento del Carmen (4 Norte 202), one of the oldest buildings in Atlixco. The site where the Discalced Carmelites once lived is now home to a couple of museums. The first is Museo de las Culturas del Valle de Atlixco, where you can see pre-Hispanic
artifacts from the different surrounding regions. There is also a
room dedicated to the Huey Atlixcáyotl festival with samples of the
costumes used during the festival. Museo de Santa Clara is located
on the second floor of the convent, with its fascinating collection of
religious art from early colonial times.
• Walk down Hidalgo Avenue, better known as Calle Emblemática.
It’s lined with colorful mansions whose balconies are always
adorned with flowers. Large flower pots and lampposts accompany
passersby as the road gradually gets steeper. Do stop at Casa Amantolli (Ave. Hidalgo 305), a shop featuring the state’s
handicrafts. Ask about the curious mojigangas–the dolls often seen
at town festivals and parades–only here they’re found in miniature.
flower growers, both in greenhouses and in the open fields. There are
calla lilies, tulips, begonias, pansies, chrysanthemums, petunias, and
geraniums. There are also fragrant herbs, carnivorous plants, cacti,
and even fruit trees for sale.
• Head up Cerro de San Miguel for a look at Atlixco from above.
From up there Popocatépetl feels closer than ever. In the morning
it’s surrounded by a cloud of mist that slowly disappears, with a
sole plume of smoke remaining against the pink sky. Capilla de San
Miguel Arcángel is at the very top of the mountain. The modest 16th-
century building receives hundreds of pilgrims on September 29.
• Walk to see the old cereal estate, Hacienda de San Mateo, today
home to Cervecería 5 de Mayo (Prol. 4 Sur 1504; T. 01244 446 0370; cc5.mx; guided tours Sat and Sun, from 2 to 6 pm). Fermented at
high temperatures, the company’s two beers, Saga and Osadía,
are made with water from the region and have fruity flavors. It’s
worth taking the tour of the facilities. Next door is El Leñero
contemporary art gallery.
Sunday • Go down the wide steps of Calle Emblemática for a quick route to
Antiguo Hospital de San Juan de Dios (11 Sur 301). In use only until
recently, the hospital was founded by the brothers of St. John of God.
Today you can visit the cloister and check out the Pinacoteca, where
you can see works featuring St. John of God made by colonial artists
Luis Berrueco and Pablo de Talavera. Be sure to visit the tiny Templo de San Rafael Arcángel next door.
• Try this Magical Town’s famous cecina (cured beef) at Mercado Benito Juárez. Served in plentiful proportions with cactus leaf and
grilled onion salad, it’s a delicacy that’s hard to resist and the
locals know it. It’s served with avocado, the produce so diligently
cultivated in the surrounding areas. Also ask about mixiotes
de carnero (pit-barbecued ram), barbacoa (pit-barbecued goat),
and consomé atlixquense.
• If there’s one thing that Atlixco’s soil is good for, it’s for growing
flowers–all the time. For a close encounter with the colorful plants
all you need to do is take a stroll through the nurseries of Cabrera.
This neighborhood is where you’ll see the results of the work of the
Panadería Raquelito (11 Sur 115) bakes its goodies on the same street as the Antiguo Hospital de San Juan de Dios. Ask for their tra-ditional pan de nata, made on site.
Keep in Mind
Mercado Benito Juárez, a meeting place of flavors.
Ex Convento del Carmen, 17th-century gem of the Carmelite Order.
Atlixco with its colorful streets ready to be discovered.
Viveros de Atlixco–colorful, extensive, and fascinating.
Cervecería 5 de Mayo, the flavor of the town in drinkable form.
One of Atlixco’s best hotels, Mansión del Conde, is located right across from the main square (Portal Hidalgo 3; T. 01244 446 6102; hotelmansiondelconde.com). From the terrace you can see Popocatépetl and the Ex Convento Franciscano perched atop a hill.
mDRecommends
The crowds come out for a festival at Cerro de San Miguel on the last Sunday of September. Seven ethnicities from the state of Puebla gather there in Plazuela de la Danza
in order to pay tribute to their native traditions and beliefs with regional dances and songs. It’s called Huey Atlixcáyotl and it has been celebrat-ed since 1965.
Festivities
What to Buy • Plants and flowers• Miniature mojigangas• Ximitl ice creams• 5 de Mayo beer
Ast
rid
Ro
drí
gu
ez
(5)
41 40
M A G I C A L T O W N SDiscover Puebla
What to Do Saturday• Familiarize yourself with the town by entering the Iglesia del
Sagrado Corazón de Jesús located in the Plaza Principal facing the Palacio Municipal. A fire destroyed the wooden roof in 1955 and this
was replaced with a barrel vaulted nave. If you look to the altar for
solace you will find a radiant image of the Sacred Heart.
• Visit the Parroquia de Santa María de la Asunción a few blocks away
which has a crenellated atrium that simply must be seen. This is the
home of the town’s patron saint and was initially a convent, founded
by the Franciscans in 1531, although its current appearance is a
product of the 19th century. The interior is executed almost
exclusively in timber with the Mudejar ceiling, the choir loft railing
that extends along the nave, the main altar and the Virgin all being
carved from wood. Everything here shines or has a story to tell. Next
to the church, the walls of the rectory are adorned with paintings by
Luis Toral González, the famous artist from Zacapoaxtla who also
painted the murals inside the Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón de Jesús.
The Start Rather than a kiosk, the Plaza Principal features a fountain in its center
that is accompanied by palm and araucaria (Monkey Puzzle) trees.
Around the square there are orange colored arches and this is where
the life of the town can be found. Beyond the square, in the clouds, is
Cerro Cabezón, the limestone surfaced mountain that gives the town
its name, since in Náhuatl Tlatlauquitepec means “mountain that colors
or burns.” This metaphor serves to remind us of when light from the east
illuminates the only section of landscape not populated with trees.
Tlatlauquitepec is filled with Oyamel trees (sacred firs),
low hanging clouds, and shadows that play on the
ground of the Plaza Principal. It is a place of bright light
and sunsets and its treasure is the flowers used to show
affection for the Virgin or fill its gardens.
Tlatlauquitepec
The Zócalo welcomes the day with joy.
The town’s friendly people stroll along these well-maintained streets every day.
ConnectivityZacapoaxtla 16 miles / 33 minState roads 575, 129.
Puebla 81 miles / 1:30 hFederal roads 140, 129.
Tlaxcala 86 miles / 1:50 hFederal roads 117, 121, 136, 129.
Mexico City160 miles / 3 hFederal roads 150, 140, 129.
How to Get ThereBy Car:From the city of Puebla you need to take federal road 129 from Amozoc to Ixtenco, then continue along federal road 140 before taking federal road 129 again; in total the length of the journey is approximately 81 miles and the trip takes around one and a half hours.
By Bus:From the City of Puebla – CAPU: ATAH
From Mexico City – TAPO:ADO, VIA and Primera Plus Texcoco
Tourist InformationTown HallReforma 47-A, Centro.T. (01233) 318 0001.
Visitpuebla.travel/tlatlauquitepec
People are called to prayer by the bell of the Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón de Jesús.
La Parroquia de Santa María de la Asunción is the home of the town’s patron saint and there are stories to be found in every corner.
43 42
M A G I C A L T O W N SDiscover Puebla
What to Buy • Pescaditos (small fish) and silver lilies • Woolen embroidery• Coffee from Mazatepec• Walnuts• Candy from the Muni Market
Travel OperatorsExplorePortal Morelos 5, inside the Hotel Santa Fe.T. (01233) 318 0267.Contact: Cristina Ramos.Destinations: Cerro Cabezón, Cascada de Puxtla, Presa de la Soledad, Centro Ecoturístico Bosque de Niebla (for horse rides, cycling or watching the banks of clouds above the mesophyll forest at dawn).
• Even if you don’t stay at the Hotel Estancia San Jorge—where the rooms offer views of the Cerro Cabezón and the Santuario del Señor
de Huaxtla—you should at least visit the Rincón de los Recuerdos on the top floor, the museum founded by Jorge Alberto Guzmán. You
will be amazed by the variety of objects exhibited here: from fossils,
pre-Hispanic objects, postage stamps and ancient coins, to chests,
movie theatre seats, sewing machines and typewriters; and there are
even weapons, photographs and documents from Tlatlauquitepec of
more than a century ago. The hotel also has an orchidarium.
• Before 7 pm visit El Jonuco (Revolución 51), a traditional winery that
since 1921 has produced fig, cherry, guava, tejocote (Mexican hawthorn), lemon balm, vanilla, aniseed and passion fruit wines as
well as sherry. The only decoration at this small winery is the
pleasant conversation, glass in hand, of the visitors while at the back
you will find the barrels where the wines are aged.
• End the day at the Barcito, the bar of the Hotel Santa Fe (open until
past midnight). From the balconies you can see the Plaza Principal
and the stars.
Sunday• Don’t miss the Tianguis Artesanal in the Plaza Principal where you
will find baskets and hats made from palm, wooden toys and also
woolen shawls embroidered by the women of Acogogta and Tenpazol.
Taken together they form a very colorful scene. The focus here,
however, is the silver jewelry shaped into the figures of fish and lilies.
• Visit the nearby community where you can see the Santuario del Señor de Huaxtla where the people worship a miraculous figure of
Christ. The story goes that the figure was carved in the 18th century
from the wood of a tree dragged downstream by the river. People
from around the town come here, walk through the entrance in the
Petatillo facade and bow before the blue Neoclassical altar to ask for
protection. On the left hand side of the church is the Virgen del Rayo,
from Ocotlán, with the moon at her feet.
• If you like to explore caves you should visit the Cerro Cabezón, just five
miles from the center of town, since it offers an abundance of caves.
There are three zip lines (of 260, 490 and 656 feet) which allow you the
chance to fly through the air with Tlatlauquitepec in the distance.
• If you travel another 14 miles along the road to Mazatepec you will
come to the Presa de la Soledad dam, which is fed by the Apulco
River. The road is lined with ferns and liquidambar, and you pass a
viewpoint from where you can see the Cascada de Puxtla waterfall
(Km 7). When you reach the dam the Cascada del Tenaxate
waterfall welcomes you and either here or at the Puente de la Soledad bridge you can do some abseiling. Following that head for
the jetty where boats will take you on a trip across the lake where
you can see herons and hawks, as well as sauco trees and bamboo.
• When you return to town satisfy your appetite at the Café Colonial which offers traditional local smoked meats from Mazatepec, the
community that during the Porfiriato of the late 19th and early 20th
centuries received Italians who were brought to teach the locals
better agricultural methods. Like these original visitors, their
descendants continue to use oak and citrus tree firewood to smoke
chicken, longaniza sausage, loin and ribs. This meat is usually
accompanied by peanut sauce, green chilies or the hot chile de árbol.
The restaurant also sells organic coffee produced in Mazatepec.
The Cerro Cabezón can also be seen from the Cerrito de Guadalupe, which features a 19th-century church dedicated to the Guadalupana that can be reached via stairs.
Keep in Mind
You simply must try the tlacoyos (an oval shaped fried or toasted cake made of masa and filled with alberjón beans, avocado leaves and manzano chili), totole or turkey in mole sauce, chilpozontle (a dish made with meat and vegetables), pulque and atole de granillo. During Holy Week shrimp patties in mole sauce are customary while the daily staple of candy includes colored coconut candy, crystallized figs, tejocote (hawthorn) jam, gaznates and cookies. Yolixpa, the traditional herb liqueur so popular with people of the Puebla sierra, is made using wormwood, wallflower, citron and lime peel, fennel, huichín, maltanzin, camomile, rue, lemon tea, lemon verbena tea, lemon balm, sweet herb and hierba maestra.
mD Recommends
August is the month of tuberose, the flower that has given the town the name “Jardín de la Sierra.” This is also the month for celebrations dedicated to the town’s patron saint (15), the Virgen de la Asunción, at the Feria Regional de la Tuberosa.
There is no better way to adorn altars in her honor than with floral arrangements or to carpet the church entrance with flowers, leaves, seeds and fruit. In the perfumed air that envelops the parish church you will hear prayers and see the
processions. There are also fireworks displays, mechanical rides, music and traditional dance, including tocotines and negritos, quetzalines and santiaguitos, which are performed for the Virgin and the public.
Celebrations
The Cascada de Puxtla waterfall constantly renews itself.
The famous smoked meats of Mazatepec.
The Rincón de los Recuerdos offers treasured objects.
Elders and bamboo mark the descent from the Puente de la Soledad.
45 44
M A G I C A L T O W N SDiscover Puebla
The Start Dawn in Cuetzalan’s Plaza Principal recalls a port or somewhere by the sea, perhaps because of the white buildings or the mist they are shrouded in, or maybe it’s the stone surface from which the palm trees and birds rise up. The Nahuas who live here still dress like their ancestors and maintain old customs such as the Danza de los Voladores, which was handed down to them by the Totonacas.
As if lifted from a fairytale, this Magical Town delights
the imagination with its cobblestoned streets, the
lilies painted by Don Goyo and the blouses (huipiles)
embroidered by the local women. But the dominant figure here is nature with
its coffee plants, tree ferns and mist...
Cuetzalan
The Plaza Principal is the scene for a daily parade of colors.
ConnectivityMexico City180 miles / 5 hHighways 150, 129.
City of Puebla107 miles / 3:20 hHighway 129 and state road (no number).
City of Tlaxcala109 miles /3:30 hHighway 129, federal road 136. Xalapa128 miles / 3 hHighway 140, federal road 129.
How to Get ThereBy Car:Take the Puebla-Orizaba highway. Passing the Cuauhtémoc Stadium go right towards Perote; you will pass two toll booths before arriving at Cuapiaxtla where you must follow the route indicating Perote-pista. A little further on you will come to a deviation to the right indicating Teziutlán cuota, continue straight ahead until you come to the deviation to the right that says “salida a Zaragoza y Ocotlán.” When you reach the town of Zaragoza go to the Acuaco gas station and then take the deviation to the right to reach Cuetzalan.
By Bus:Western Bus Terminal– TAPO:
ADO, Texcoco Primera Plus.Puebla Central Bus Terminal – CAPU:
Línea Vía.
Tourist InformationTown HallGround floor, next to the Templo de San Francisco.T. (01233) 331 0527.
Visitpuebla.travel/cuetzalan
The Reserva Azul is the perfect place to discover nature’s secrets and for a good cup of coffee.
What to Do Saturday• Before you reach Cuetzalan stop at the El Cuichat community where
you will find the Reserva Azul. This is the life project of Luis Enrique
and Elsa Fernández, a couple you really should visit whether you
choose to spend the night at their 27-acre coffee plantation or not.
They provide a couple of cabins and six palafitos (tents with beds and
terrace) so that guests can hear what nature has to say. If you take
a walk through the plantation you’ll discover how coffee is grown and
processed, its medicinal uses and the magical ideas developed
by indigenous people about it.
• Visit the Casa de Cultura to see not only the exhibition of works by
Gregorio Méndez Nava—the artist whose brushstrokes capture the
essence of the town—but also the Museo Etnográfico Calmahuistic.
The museum has a collection of archeological pieces from
Yohualichan, costumes used in traditional indigenous dances,
and black and white photos of Cuetzalan’s past.
On the outskirts of town you will find bamboo cabins built by the Tosepan Kali alternative tourism collective (Cuetzalan-San Miguel federal road; T.01233 331 0925; www.tosepankali.com). In order to avoid disrupting the harmony with nature they use ecological materials, treat and recycle waste water and produce organic coffee.
Don’t Miss
Alf
red
o M
art
íne
z /
MD
(2
)
47 46
M A G I C A L T O W N SDiscover Puebla
• You should also enter the Mercado de Artesanías Matachiuj for the baskets made from jonote fibers, the fruit wines, and liqueurs made
from coffee, and yolixpa. The latter drink is made from herbs that are
highly valued by people in these mountains. But perhaps nothing is
as attractive as the items woven using hand looms or pepenado hilván
embroidery. At stall 26, amid the blouses and shawls, you will find the
prodigious hands of María Concepción López embroidering ceaselessly.
• Visit the workshop of the Posadas family (on the corner of Zapata and Guerrero) where they have been making feather headdresses
used in the Danza de los Quetzalines for more than 30 years. They
use wood and bamboo, metallic paper and feathers, and make them
so small they can be used for key rings or so big there is no way
to wear them on your head.
• At 8:30 pm you should go to the Peña Los Jarritos or the Lienzo Charro El Potrillo to see shows featuring traditional dancing. You
can also enjoy a meal at either of these two spots and spend the rest
of the night enjoying the music and a few drinks.
Among the many gastronomic delights offered by Cuetzalan are chicken in mole sauce, the pipián ranchero (made using chayote, ground sesame seeds and chiltepín or bird peppers), as well as the smoked cecina served with tlacoyos. These three dishes can be enjoyed at the Las Ranas restaurant (in the Mercado Artesanal) where you will also find Tanesik coffee for sale, which is made by a group of indigenous women. If you are lucky you may find a dish of beans with xocoyoli (the stem of a local plant cooked in ash to remove the bitterness).
mDRecommends
Sunday• A stroll through the Plaza Principal takes on a different rhythm on
Sunday when it hosts the street market or tianguis; during this day
the mist and fog mixes with the colorful fruit and market stalls. You
will find a wonderful variety of items on sale: guaje pods and bule (a
squash), mushrooms, pear banana, apple banana, and cochineal-dyed
woolen shawls. The pastries are piled in mountains of sugar, old
people offer their remedies for aches and pains, and the air is filled
with the aroma of coffee and cinnamon. This is also one of the days
when the “bird-men” hang from the trunk at the portico of the parish
church to perform their Danza de los Voladores, an eloquent
pre-Hispanic ritual dance that presents the Totonaca cosmogony,
the connection between men and gods on spatial planes.
• Visit the Parroquia de San Francisco de Asís, rebuilt in the 20th
century on the site of an old stone church; this is the giant that
overlooks the main square. It looks slightly Gothic, a little
Romanesque, with a single tower, very high ceilings and stained glass
windows that filter the light in a special way. On Sundays at midday
you can hear the town’s language spoken inside since the mass is
given in Náhuatl.
• Don’t miss the Jardín Botánico Xoxoctic (at Km 2.8 on the road to Yohualichan) with its universe of orchids and ferns, medicinal plants
and a butterfly house which will keep you entertained for hours.
This is a triangular item of clothing women have used for centuries to cover their necks. In Cuetzalan it is customary to sometimes embroider it with a small tree of life motif, an icon that indicates marital status and the history of the woman wearing it.
Quechquemitl
The wonderful neo-Gothic architecture of El Santuario de Guadalupe with its beautiful tower adorned with jugs.
Pre-Hispanic pieces, colorful dresses, feathered headdresses of different sizes and delicate embroidery are all part of Cuetzalan tradition.
Two of the most colorful and spectacular features of Cuetzalan are the street market, or tianguis, and the Danza de los Voladores.
Ro
dri
go
Cru
z /
MD
(2
)A
lfre
do
Ma
rtín
ez
/ M
D
49 48
M A G I C A L T O W N SDiscover Puebla
Pedro Martín Martín learned to embroider from his mother, María Concepción López (the tireless embroiderer who can always be found at stall 26 in the Mercado de Artesanías), but now he also gives hand- loom weaving courses in the Cuauhtamazaco community. As well as training other artisans, Pedro has dedicated much of his time to rescuing antique pieces and interacting with designers to create new ones. It is fascinating to listen to him talk about the materials he uses and his life, and to discover how much embroidery can say about a culture (C. 045233 759 3992).
Two Artists
Yohualichan KampaTo Xolalmej IlhuitijHeld during the first days of August at the Yohualichan archeological site this festival features music and dance from different towns in the region. There is also an exhibition of paintings and antique clothing at the Casa de Cultura, as well as workshops for mask making, creating art works using wax and hand-loom weaving.
Huipil Festival and Coffee FestivalThese festivals are held between the end of September and beginning of October and serve to commemorate what Cuetzalan loves most: its traditional clothing and coffee growing. Two Queens are selected and there is dancing featuring quetzalines, voladores, santiaguitos and toreadores.
Celebrations
What to Buy• Organic coffee from the Reserva Azul• Embroidered textiles • Wines made from fruit and yolixpa• Feathered headdresses
• Discover Yohualichan (just over four miles north of Cuetzalan), the ceremonial center that was once part of the great Totonacapan, a region controlled by El Tajín. This is why it comes as no surprise to find that the bases of the pyramids are decorated with niches just
like those at the ancient city of El Tajín in Veracruz. Nahuas named
this site “the place of night” and occupied it after it had been
abandoned by the Totonacas. At the exit of the archeological site
don’t miss the small Ticoteno restaurant, a community project where
your senses will be delighted by the flavors and aromas of regional cooking and the items on sale in the handicrafts store.
• For the adventurous there are waterfalls such as El Salto and Las Golondrinas where you can go abseiling, while El Salto also offers
a nearby zip line and Las Golondrinas, a natural pool for swimming.
You can reach the Cascada Corazón del Bosque waterfall, which
is surrounded by tree ferns, on horseback and then on foot, while
for those who don’t fear a walk in the dark you can enter the
subterranean worlds of Atepolihui, Chichicazapan or Aventura.
• Walk up Zaragoza Street and you will find the perfect place for
enjoying a good cup of coffee with tables in the open air outside
the restaurant at the hotel Posada Cuetzalan. A little further up
you will find the Santuario de Guadalupe, known as the Iglesia de los Jarritos thanks to the earthenware pieces that adorn its single
pointed tower. A stylized cemetery serves as its atrium and you pass
by crosses and graves to reach the entrance to the church which
was nostalgically executed in the Gothic style in the 19th century.
• 20 miles away is Zacapoaxtla, which can be seen from the
balconies of the Palacio Municipal. Next to it is the Iglesia del Señor de Esquipulas where people worship the miraculous
Guatemalan Black Christ. Don’t miss the items in tanned leather and carved wood. Take the opportunity to eat at El Balcón (Alonso Luque 3) which offers pipián rojo and chilpozonte (a spicy pork,
beef or chicken broth).
• At Km 7 on the Zacapoaxtla-Cuetzalan road is the Hostal Hacienda Apulco (T. 01222 243 5706; hostalhaciendaapulco.com).
This stop is a must on your itinerary with its tables in the open air,
a coffee grinder that fills the air with a fragrant aroma, and a store
that sells virgin honey from Cuetzalan, yolixpa and chipotle jelly.
On the other side of the road are 26 cabins surrounded by hortensia
bushes, a small lake, huts with barbeques, and people riding horses
or bicycles. We also suggest you go to the viewpoint from where you
can see the Cascada de la Olla waterfall. The river that falls heavily
and constantly here is the Apulco River, which runs on into a canyon.
Not far from here is the Cascada La Gloria waterfall with its
abundant ferns and vegetation.
Gregorio Méndez NavaTaught to paint by nature, Don Goyo uses oils and acrylics to portray life in Cuetzalan. He discovered the work of Rivera, Orozco and Siqueiros in the home of Vicente Lombardo Toledano and, after seeing how these masters used color, he discovered his own style. He is as interested in waterfalls as he is in textiles, and places lilies and
heliconias in the hands of women, draws jaguars covered in stars, and his paintings always include a celebration that helps create the sacred atmosphere of this land. He is the director of the Casa de Cultura, so it is easy to find him and request a short visit to his studio on the outskirts of town (T. 01233 331 1201).
The Descubre Cuetzalan tourism operator offers tours of sights outside the town, including the Cascada El Salto waterfall for abseiling, horse rides to the Cascada Corazón del Bosque waterfall or the dank and dark Gruta de Chichicazapan cave which features an underground river (contact: Misael Morales; T. 01233 331 1234; descubrecuetzalan.com).
Don’t Miss
Alf
red
o M
art
íne
z /
MD
The Hostal Hacienda Apulco.
In the center of the Plaza de Armas square is a column commemorating the Battle of the Cinco de Mayo.
Puebla’s Sierra Norte features many important caves and underground rivers.
Amazing landscapes surround this Magical Town: waterfalls, caves and the surprising Yohualichan ruins.
51 50
M A G I C A L T O W N S Discover Puebla
Sunday • Leave breakfast to the El Mirador restaurant from where you can see
the Barranca de los Jilgueros and try the cheese bread and tlacoyos.• Next visit the town of Tomatlán to see the Rancho El Mayab and take
a walk through the apple orchards.• Commune with nature at the Cascada de Tulimán waterfall, six miles
from the center of town. Here you can do some abseiling, take a zip line or suspension bridge from the heights, and swim in the natural water pools of the Quetzalapan River.
• Be sure to arrive at the Valle de las Piedras Encimadas before 6 pm. Surrounded by forests and shrouded in mist and fog, this landscape features strange rock formations that have been sculpted over time by the erosive force of the wind.
• When you get back to town be sure to stop for a baked apple pastry from the La Hojaldradita bakery or enjoy a slice of apple pie at the Café El Zahuán.
What to Do Saturday• Start the day in the Plaza Principal near the floral clock featured in
the center. The Parroquia de San Pedro y San Pablo, as well as the Ex Convento Franciscano, form part of the urban landscape.
• Visit the old convent cloisters, now the Casa de Cultura, which is also home to the Museo Comunitario Luciano Márquez Becerra, dedicated to regional history.
• Soak up the daily atmosphere of the “people of apples” by sitting at one of the tables in the open air outside the Café Dos Aromas located on the corner of Andador Independencia and Benito Juárez García.
• An obligatory visit in Zacatlán is to a cider brewery since cider is a tradition here. At the Bodegas Delicia store you can buy the famous apple sodas as well as liqueurs, creams and fruit sauces.
• You should also dedicate a couple of hours to the Museo de Relojería Alberto Olvera Hernández, a monumental clock factory and museum that is the pride of Zacatlán. In addition, a show is staged on the balconies of the building that is well worth seeing and features automatons (12:00 pm, 2 pm and 9 pm).
What to Buy • Dried apples• Pottery from San Miguel Tenango• Cider, conserves and fruit liqueurs• Cheese bread
Visitpuebla.travel/zacatlan
This town is known for its apples and is no stranger to mist and fog. Every day
the people here bake bread, build large clocks that
remind us that life is in the here and now, and make
sodas, cider and liqueurs using apples from
the orchards.
Zacatlán
Mist is a constant companion in Zacatlán.
The delightful streets welcome all visitors.
The whimsical forms carved by nature await in the Valle de las Piedras Encimadas.
A true delight: cheese bread.
53
M A G I C A L T O W N S
52
Discover Puebla
Sunday • Relax at the Aguas Termales de Chignahuapan Spa, less than four
miles from the center of town. You don’t need to be a guest to take advantage of the many pools and when you come out of the water you can treat your body to a thermal mud wrap or enter the temazcal (steam bath).
• On the way back to town stop at Ixtlahuaca to see the Santuario del Honguito, a church that features a petrified mushroom with
the image of Christ.
• Discover how pulque is extracted from maguey cacti at the Hacienda Amoltepec. While you are here take a horse ride or set off on a
mountain bike, while the picturesque lake is the ideal spot for a boat
ride if you decide you would like to cross it.
• Visiting the stores and workshops selling Christmas ornaments
offers a good excuse for a walk through the streets of Chignahuapan
in search of the perfect ornament.
• Dining at the El Rincón Mexicano restaurant provides you with the
opportunity to try some wonderful chalupas, tlacoyos or rabbit in
chiltepín peppers.
What to Do Saturday• A stroll through the Plaza de la Constitución is entertaining in itself
thanks to the colored kiosk in the center of the square. While you’re
here take a look at the Parroquia de Santiago Apóstol and the pair
of murals featured in the portico of the Palacio Municipal.• See the 46-foot tall Virgin worshipped at the Basílica Menor de la
Inmaculada Concepción.• Take a trip by boat or trajinera (a flat bottomed barge) on Laguna
Chignahuapan. In November, during the Festival de la Luz y la Vida,
a procession carrying torches makes its way to the lake.
• Visit the workshop of the Castro Sosa family and see the magical
process used by these artisans to transform clay into vases,
plates and trays.
• Take a trip to the Salto de Quetzalapan, a waterfall that hypnotizes
the town, where you will find such activities as a zip line, a high
tension wire and enjoy the chance to abseil beside the waterfall.
This is a joyful and colorful town where it is always
Christmas thanks to the stores that have been
selling ornaments made here for years, celebrating
life in all its luminosity. Torches are lit for the Day of the Dead and are carried to
a lake as if they were the souls of the dead.
Chignahuapan
What to Buy • Christmas tree ornaments• Earthenware items made
by the Castro Sosa family• Pulque from the
Hacienda Amoltepec• Relaxing oils at the Aguas
Termales resort
Visitpuebla.travel/chignahuapan
The elegant and silent kiosk in Plaza de la Constitución square.
Chignahuapan is famous for its Christmas ornaments.
Enjoy some good pulque at the Hacienda Amoltepec.
Enjoy the peace and tranquility offered by the Aguas Termales resort and spa to the maximum.
55 54
M A G I C A L T O W N SDiscover Puebla
Sunday • Admire the embroidered blouses worn by the women of Cuacuila,
just over a mile from Huauchinango, and taste the tamales they make there. In Cuacuila, the people speak Náhuatl.
• Check out the calming watery scene offered by Presa Necaxa, just over six miles northwest of Huauchinango. It is part of the Sistema Hidroeléctrico Necaxa, a hydroelectric system opened under Porfirio Díaz in the early 20th century.
• Head to Tenango de las Flores, the town a few miles down the road with its own dam, where you can go fishing. At its Mercado Isabel Díaz Castilla you’ll find all kinds of ornamental plants for sale.
• Presa Nexapa, just over six miles from Tenango, is another place that enchants visitors. A lone castle surrounded by a misty cloud and canoes carrying flowers are part of the scenery.
• Ask about tours to the nearby waterfalls at Huauchinango’s Munici-pal Tourism Council. There’s Cascadas de Totolapa and Cascada de Tío Checo (contact: Hugo Carlos Cabrera; C. 045776 767 8625; [email protected]).
What to DoSaturday • Stroll through Plaza de la Constitución, the park shaded by
privets and jacarandas, full of women seated with their long, rolled-up nahuas (traditional dress) selling tamales de puñete and roasted peanuts.
• Check out the many churches on Guillermo Ledesma y Manjarrez Street. There’s the Santuario del Señor en su Santo Entierro, the Capilla de la Virgen de Guadalupe and Iglesia de la Asunción with its striking blue dome.
• Step inside any one of the town’s restaurants and try some of the tostadas or enchiladas, gorditas, barbacoa (pit-barbecued goat), or eggs and chili you’re sure to find on the menu. Ask about the salsas made with chiltepín chili and ground peanuts.
• See the mausoleum of Rafael Cravioto, the famous military officer so highly regarded in Huauchinango at the Panteón Municipal.
• Find some handicrafts and typical regional products to take home at the tourist information module (Plaza de la Constitución s/n, underneath Town Hall, Centro).
What to Buy • Macadamia nuts• Chiltepín chili• Embroidered blouses• Wooden toys• Candies and jams
Visitpuebla.travel/huauchinango
Azaleas abound, while the smell of roasted peanuts
and a sense of calm permeate the air.
Surrounded by mountains and accompanied by rivers
and waterfalls, this is the town where stories collect
in the water. Just take a look in the nearby dams
to see for yourself: they’re filled with the reflections of
trees and clouds.
Huauchinango
Presa Necaxa, Mexico’s first hydroelectric dam.
The tamales of Cuacuila, a good reason to visit this town.
Tenango de las Flores, the best place to find ornamental plants.
Mar
cos
Ferr
o
57 56
M A G I C A L T O W N SDiscover Puebla
Sunday • Don’t miss the Sunday street market or tianguis dominical where
the Nahua and Otomi communities located around the town offer their wares, transforming the town into a colorful harvest.
• If you walk to the center of town you should visit the Parroquia del Señor Santiago and submerge yourself in the universe of fragrances at the Mercado Municipal.
• If you go to the Puente Colgante Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla that connects Pahuatlán to the Xolotla community you can go swimming in the Pahuatitla River that runs beneath it (weather permitting, of course).
• The Mirador de Ahíla viewpoint has breathtaking views, since this elevated community offers a panoramic view of Pahuatlán in the distance. And while some people go paragliding from here, cyclists make the most of the hilly countryside below.
• Just a few miles south is the small town of Honey which still has railroad tracks for the trains that no longer pass through. A visit to this town is a great way to imagine how it was to live in the past.
What to Do Saturday• Enjoy a breakfast of hollejo tamales (prepared with the husk of corn
kernels) or pascal tamales (made with beans and peanut sauce) in the Juárez and Zaragoza arches. And on those cold mornings you should try a pineapple or peanut atole.
• Visit the workshop of Eliseo Castillo where decorative perforated paper globes are made for festivals, although it’s always a good time to discover this delicate art.
• Take a trip to the nearby community of San Pablito —an Otomi town that has made amate paper since before the arrival of the Spanish— to discover how these ceremonial sheets are made in the workshop of the Santos Rojas family.
• Coffee is one of the things the town of Pahuatlán is very proud of. A visit to the Beneficio de Café owned by Don Conche Téllez is perhaps the best way to discover how coffee is processed here and, of course, to taste it.
• When dinner time arrives you can take the opportunity to try the smoked cecina, the molotes (a corn and potato masa with a filling) and the onion tacos with strips of pork skins.
What to Buy
• Coffee• Liqueur of acachul (a wild grape)• Nahua embroidery from Atla• Amate paper from San Pablito
Visit
puebla.travel/pahuatlan
Inhabited by Nahuas and Otomies, there is always
something magical in Pahuatlán. Here you will
find shamans still offering their cures, drinking coffee,
looking to the clouds to predict rain and performing the Danza de los Voladores
for festivals.
Pahuatlán
The Palacio Municipal hosts memorable public events.
The clock marks the hour in the Jardín Central.
The Portal Zaragoza provides shelter from the cold.
The embroidery of the Nahuas is second to none.
Ren
é C
asti
llejo
s /
MD
(4)
59 58
M A G I C A L T O W N SDiscover Puebla
• Visit Tlaxcalantongo, roughly 16 miles from Xicotepec, where the monument to Venustiano Carranza and the Cascadas Barbas de Carranza waterfalls are a must.
• See the Monumental Virgin of Guadalupe, a 75-foot high sculpture the town affectionately worships in the El Tabacal neighborhood.
• Spend the evening at the El Gallo bar, a pleasant spot where you can try a drink that mixes vodka with acachul (a local liqueur) and a lemon ice pop.
Sunday• Start the day with a cup of coffee at the Bunte or Gori cafés where
you can watch the people walking through the Plaza de la Constitución.• Just a few steps away is the Museo Casa Carranza which provides
details of the death of Don Venustiano.• Take a stroll down Porfirio Díaz Street and you will soon reach the
sacred place of Xicotepec: the Xochipila. This is a ceremonial center which is visited each year by a torchlight procession that gives thanks for favors granted.
• Don’t miss the chance to try the quails’ eggs and acamayas (freshwater prawns) at the La Curva restaurant. The eggs are served as a snack while the prawns are a delicacy that can be ordered in butter or a garlic sauce.
• Spend the afternoon in the Casa del Monje just over a mile from the center of town. This house belonged to the painter Carlos Tejada and it is said to be haunted. The charming gardens of the house invite you to take a pleasant walk.
What to Do Saturday• For lunch try the famous local specialty chili with eggs (in salsa macha
or mora sauce) accompanied with cecina at the La Terraza restaurant of the Hotel Plaza San Carlos. Very close to the hotel is the Parroquia de San Juan Bautista which is also worth a visit.
• Do some shopping at the Ma-Xicotl handicrafts store where you will find piles of wooden bags, leather belts and boots, cushions embroidered with Nahua motifs, and cotton clothing. The earrings and necklaces made from seeds or fruit peel are also eye-catching.
What to buy• Macadamia nuts• Fruit liqueurs• Coffee• Cheese bread from Los Portales
Visitpuebla.travel/xicotepec
The people here are as friendly as the temperate
climate in which they live. You can pick pahua and
chalahuite pods from the trees, buy the cheese bread from Don Aristeo who sells
in the arches and breathe in the aroma of freshly toasted
coffee as you walk through the main square.
Xicotepec
Tlaxcalantongo is a treasure hidden in the misty mountains.
Ma-Xicotl handicrafts are colorful and varied.
A panoramic view of Xicotepec.
The Casa del Monje is a mysterious place.
Acamayas (freshwater prawns) have a unique flavor.
Accompany your coffee with a delicious pastry from Don Aristeo.
Discover Puebla
60
Here we offer 7 indispensable visits as part of a trip through Puebla’s northern mountains. Oaks and ferns, banks of mist and glorious landscapes await visitors.
CHAPTER3
á icaMSierrag
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
s
63 62
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
119
119
132
130
130132
119
119
129
148
125
190D
D
Río Ajajalpa
Río ApulcoRío
Zem
poala
Cascadas TulimánSalto deQuetzalapan
Campestre La Barranca
Laguna de Chignahuapan
Hacienda Amoltepec
Aguas Termales
CascadaAkuaticpak
P. Tenango
Centro BotánicoEl Ángel de tu Salud
Ahuaxintitla
Grutas deTamborillo
Tlaxcalantongo
Cascadas Barbasde Carranza
PresaNexapa
Presa Necaxa
Iczotitla
Chachahuantla
Valle de lasPiedras
Encimadas
15
40
17
17
16
36
23
15
8
8
13
13
12
19
37
48
33
24
24
55
26
H I D A L GO
H I D A L GO
V E R A C R U Z
T L A X C A L A
SIERRA MADRE ORIENTAL
C.C. Las Truchas
To Huamantla, 16.77 mi
To Tlatlauquitepec, 8 mi
To Teziutlán
To OrientalTo Libres, 24.85 mi
To highwayMéxico-Puebla, 18 mi
To Tulancingo, 21.12 kmTo Pachuca, 30.44 km
Otatlán
TlacuitlapaEcapactla
Camotepec
Cosamaloapan
Teopancingo
Beristáin
Tecojotal
Amola
Hueyapan
Cruztitla
Macuilacatla
Chiconcuautla
Las Lajas
Agua Zarca
Tlaxco
Apizaco
Atotonilco
La Gloria San Miguel Tenango
XochitlánZongozotla
Hueytlalpan
Huehuetla
Caxhuacan Tuzamapán
Zacapoaxtla
ZACAPOAXTLA
Zaragoza
Cuetzalan
Tenextatiloyán
Yahuitlalpan
Cuahuitic
TlaxcalalcingoAtexquilla
Coayuca
ChichicaxtlaSantiagoSautla
Tepetzintla
Chila
Nueva NecaxaTenango de las Flores
San Pablito
Chicontla
Villa Ávila CamachoLa Ceiba
Tlaolantongo
Filomeno Mata
BienvenidoCutzontipa
Tlapacoya
Tlanehumancingo
Ajajalpa
Zacatlán de las Manzanas
Pahuatlán
Honey
Ixtacamaxtitlán
IXTACAMAXTITLÁN
Cerro de Acolhua
CerroSotolo
Tentzoncuahuigtic
Aquixtla
Tetela de OcampoXochiapulco
Zapotitlán de Méndez
Chignahuapan
Ahuacatlán
Ahuazotepec
Tlacuilotepec
Huauchinango
Naupan
Xicotepec
C. Xopanapa
Cuacuila
C. de Totolapa
Xolotla
Puente Colgante
TlajomulcoTexocuixpan San AndrésTepexoxucaHuixcolotla
Xaltatempade Lucas
Cascada de Aconco
Cabañas Campo Real
La Cañada
TomatlánRancho El Mayab
Jicolapa
Salto deTepexcanal
Cascada Popocaya
Carreragco
Grutas deAcocomoca
Hostal HaciendaApulco
Cascada de la Olla
Cascada Cruz de Agua
Grutas Karmidas
Cascada La Gloria
Cerro Tomaquilo
JONOTLA
HONEYPAHUATLÁN
TLACUILOTEPEC
ZAPOTITLÁN
DE MÉNDEZ
AHUAZOTEPECZACATLÁN
CHIGNAHUAPAN
AQUIXTLA
TETELA DE OCAMPO XOCHIAPULCO
AGUACATLÁN
HUAUCHINANGO
NAUPAN
XICOTEPEC
JUAN GALINDO
0
P U E B L A
General Information
ConnectivityHighways 132, 150; federal roads 119, 121, 130; state roads 148, 575.
From Mexico City Del Norte Central Bus Station:Eje Central Lázaro Cárdenas 4907,Magdalena de las Salinas.T. (0155) 5587 1552 / 5368 8171.centraldelnorte.comLines: ADO, AU, ATAH, Futura. Del Sur Central Bus Station:Taxqueña 1320, between Calz. de Tlalpan and Canal de Miramontes,Campestre Churubusco.Lines: ADO.
Pasajeros de Oriente Central Bus Station (TAPO):Ignacio Zaragoza 200, 7 de Julio.centralponiente.com.mxLines: ATAH, ADO.
From the City of Puebla Puebla Central Bus Station (CAPU):Norte Blvd. 4222, Las Cuartillas.T. (0122) 249 7211.capu.com.mxLines: ATAH, Verdes, ADO, OCC, Vías.
In the Sierra Mágica Chignahuapan Central Bus Station:Abasolo esq. G. Priero s/n, Centro.
Huauchinango Central Bus StationMexico-Tuxpan road s/n, El Paraíso.
Xicotepec Central Bus StationHidalgo s/n, Centro.
Zacatlán Central Bus StationCiudad Serdán on the corner of Camino Real s/n,San Bartolo.
Puebla International Airport Km. 91.5 on the México-Puebla federal road, Huejotzingo.T. (01227) 102 5080.aeropuertopuebla.comAirlines: Aeroméxico, Volaris, United Airlines.
Location: In the north of the state of Puebla.
Borders: North-Veracruz; West-Hidalgo and Veracruz; East-Veracruz; South-Tlaxcala.
Municipalities: Ahuacatlán, Ahuazotepec, Aquixtla, Chignahuapan, Francisco Z. Mena, Honey, Huauchinango, Ixtacamaxtitlán, Jonotla, Juan Galindo, Naupan, Tetela de Ocampo, Tlacuilotepec, Xicotepec, Xochiapulco, Zapotitlán de Méndez, Pahuatlán, and Zacatlán.
Area: 1,578.4 square miles.
Orography: Sierra de Puebla and Declive del Golfo.
Hydrography: Cuenca del Tecolutla, Cuenca de Zempoala, Cuenca del Cazones, Cuenca del Tuxpan, and Subcuenca del Necaxa.
Climate: Warm and semi-warm in summer, moderate-cold in winter, with rain and fog all year round.
Río Ajajalpa
Río ApulcoRío
Zem
poala
0
P U E B L A
Recommendations:• A full trip around the Sierra Mágica will take
about 5 days, starting in Ixtacamaxtitlán and ending in Pahuatlán.
• You can make short trips on weekends to visit each of the individual destinations.
• Use light comfortable clothing for the afternoons, but in the mornings and at night you will need boots and a jacket. Always carry an umbrella or raincoat.
• Hire the services of a tour operator for activities such as abseiling, caving, shooting rapids, camping, and mountain biking.
• Be sure to take a camera so you can capture the scenery and highlights of each destination.
• Since fog rolls in at night it is important to travel between towns by road during the day.
Secretaria de Turismo Puebla (Puebla Ministry of Tourism)
TurismoenPuebla (Tourism in Puebla)
turismoenpuebla
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
65 64
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
Among Hills and Churches
What You Need to KnowIn Náhuatl Ixtacamaxtitlán means “place of the white camaxtli” or “place near the white strip”, but if you are looking for a geographical reference in the translation, the fact of the matter is the people of the town prefer to think of the divine implications of the name: Camaxtli was a Tlaxcalteca deity and in the pre-Hispanic world white was associated with the north and old age. It is therefore possible that in this town to the north of Tlaxcala they worship the god of hunting and war, of hope and fire. This is a strange fate for this altépetl or
lordship, sharing gods with its Tlaxcalteca neighbors, since it was
forced to fight them in the famous wars, or guerras floridas, organized
by the Mexicas (Aztecs).
1STOP
urrounded by junipers and small mountains,
San Francisco Ixtacamaxtitlán is located in Puebla’s
Sierra Norte. This is the valley where ages ago the Apulco
River learned to weave its way through the hilly landscape.
Higher up you will find Tetela de Ocampo and Chignahuapan,
but here you are still close to the state of Tlaxcala. If you visit
this municipality you must do so in silence, lending an ear to
the sounds of nature and on the lookout for the many colorful
churches that dot these mountains.
ConnectivityTetela de Ocampo34 miles / 1:30 hFederal road 148.State road (no number).
Puebla75 miles / 2 hHighway 140.Federal road 129.State road (no number).
Tlaxcala50 miles / 1:30 hFederal roads 117, 121, 119.State road (no number).
Ciudad de México125 miles / 3 hHighway 150.Federal roads 117, 121, 119.State road (no number).
How to Get ThereBy Car:From the city of Puebla take federal road 129 which runs from Amozoc to Libres (43 miles), then continue northwest for about 19 miles.
By Bus:From the City of Puebla – CAPU: ATAH.Routes 246 (Texocotla-Chignahuapan) and 247 (Lim. Pue-Tlax-La Imagen) stop at Ixtacamaxtitlán.
Tourist InformationTown HallPlaza de la Constitución 1, Centro.ixtacamaxtitlanpuebla.com.mx/turismo
For religious tourism
s
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
s
Ixtacamaxtitlán
Why visit?
67 66
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
For 25 years this convent was run by Franciscans before becoming a parish church. However, the beauty of the architecture and altarpieces lives on.
When you enter Ixtacamaxtitlán you will travel along magical paths that lead to the river and the Cerro de Acolhua, where you will find the silent Capilla de San Francisquito and a spectacular view.
In the Plaza Principal, where the recently completed shiny blue Palacio Municipal stands, you will also find the Casa de las Artesanías. Here you will find items made by a group of eight artisans: tablecloths, napkins, clay pots, spinning tops, baleros (cup-and-ball), miniature boats and wooden planes; totomoxtle (corn leaf) flowers and palm leaf baskets. Everything is hung, stacked or hidden behind a showcase cabinet you’ll need to look into to discover the small toy presses for making tortillas.
From Church to Church People visit Ixtacamaxtitlán to admire the mountains and the churches, the majority of which were dependent on the convents project established here by the Franciscans in the 16th century. This is why the churches were all founded at roughly the same time and are relatively close to each other. The first of these churches that demands
your attention is the Ex Convento de San Francisco, located in the
municipal seat. Visitors enter through a disused cemetery that now
serves as a park just in front of the church. While to one side you will
see the single orange freestanding tower that houses the church bell,
your eyes will be drawn to the former convent, now a church, with
it stone facade and beautiful Talavera dome which is almost hidden
in the background.
Once inside you will see a pair of lateral chapels and three amazing
naves. The first of these chapels is dedicated to the Señor del Buen Viaje—the saint that since Colonial times has been worshipped by
muleteers and travelers—, and it features a handful of altarpieces
and Baroque paintings under a starry ceiling painted in tempera;
the second is the Capilla de la Virgen del Carmen where people pray
to the Virgin’s image captured on the white and gold altarpiece, also
executed in the Baroque style. The main altar features an image of
the patron saint embracing Christ. Every October 4 tribute is paid
to St. Francis of Assisi here and the day is celebrated with dancing,
processions and bull fighting.
On the other side of the Apulco River the landscape is interrupted
by the proud Cerro de Acolhua and the surrounding rocks. This is the
sacred hill people worshipped in the past and which has seen the
passage of the gods and the centuries. Perhaps the best place for
viewing the hill, or at least the most mystical, is from the Capilla de San Francisquito, a small church high on a hill in the Tlajomulco
community—where the locals make a very good mezcal de pechuga
you really should try. The doors of the San Francisquito will be closed
since the only day they are left open is October 5 when the church
celebrates its own festival.
To reach the Iglesia de San Francisquito you’ll need to travel in a four wheel drive vehicle since the route to the church is along a steep and rugged dirt road. You can also check with the Tourism Office to see if they program guided tours.
Don’t Miss
Don’t Miss
69 68
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
A few hills further along is the Iglesia de San Andrés Tepexoxuca, which is memorable not only because its facade includes an image of the national emblem from the period of Porfirio Díaz, or because there
is a sun dial to one side of the church, but because the interior has been
executed to reflect the imaginary of the community: it was the people
of the town who painted the interior of the church to create
an exciting universe of colors and figures. The main altar features
an image of San Andrés Apóstol proudly carrying his cross in the form
of an “x”; a chapel to the left is dedicated to the Sacred Heart, while
on the right there is a small Baroque estipite altarpiece with Jesus Christ
in the center which forms part of the internal order established here.
Another place worth visiting is the Santuario del Señor de la Salud, in Huixcolotla, home of the miraculous Christ. The faithful travel
from near and far to see it. At the top of the facade is a triangle of
the holy trinity and the radiant dove of the Holy Spirit while below,
between the columns, are four elongated angels made by indigenous
people that stare seriously into the sky from their niches. Inside,
During Lent you should definitely try the famous escamoles (ants’ eggs) from Ixtacamaxtitlán. Along with mole poblano, barbacoa and lamb mixiotes this is one of the most typical dishes in Puebla. These dishes are usually accompanied by pulque made in Tentzoncuahuigtic and the best place to try them is at the Cocina La Teja restaurant (Narciso Mendoza s/n).
mDRecommends
covered by a Neoclassical canopy, is the moving and dazzling image
of El Señor de la Salud. He is accompanied by the Virgen de los
Dolores and San Juan Apóstol, while from his arms, which are nailed
to the cross, hangs a green and gold banner.
Tribute must be paid to the Señor de la Buena Muerte in
Texocuixpan, where his sanctuary also serves as a parish church which
features three naves, ribbed domes and semi-circular arches. Together
these features create the perfect atmosphere for the worship of Christ,
which has being going on here since the 18th century. On the day
of the Holy Cross, May 3, the celebration of the patron sent is held,
although pilgrims can visit in search of relief at any time.
The Highlights: Museo ComunitarioAn old chapel with a faded white facade was chosen by the people
of Ixtacamaxtitlán as the site for a Museo Comunitario which houses
an archeological collection that gives testimony of the town’s pre-
Hispanic past. Here you will find metal objects, pots, clay figures,
earthenware stamps and spindles, and obsidian knives and
spearheads. Of particular interest are a gold leaf embossed bracelet
and a necklace of bone and shells. There is also a quarried stone
ocelot with its feet standing on serpents that was found at the Cerro
de Alcohua; in Náhuatl cosmogony this is none other than
Tezcatlipoca Rojo, the god worshipped by Tlaxcaltecas who knew
it by the name of Camaxtli (Reforma s/n; Tues to Sun, 9 am to 2 pm and 4 pm to 6 pm).
The Iglesia de San Andrés Tepexoxuca, with its colored facade and 19th-century Neoclassical altarpiece, and the Santuario del Señor de la Salud, which faces west towards the holy land, are important places of worship for the people of these mountains.
The beautiful Franciscan chapel of San Diego is currently home to roughly 1,000 archeological pieces.
71 70
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
Of Heroes and Murals
A Walk through the Center of Town The small towns nestled in the mountains of Puebla possess a certain grandeur, as if the comings and goings of the surrounding hills somehow stretch or undo the knot of houses forming a spot on the horizon. The houses in Tetela are often very old, with tiled roofs and white walls, and are built around the Plaza de la Constitución where palm and pepper trees have stood for ages. A star in the center marks the spot where at times a dancing fountain erupts into life and to the sides there are a pair of monuments: one is of Benito Juárez and the other of “Los Tres Juanes”: Juan Crisóstomo Bonilla, Juan Nepomuceno Méndez and Juan Francisco Lucas, three generals who achieved glory during the Second French Intervention. A block from here is the Mercado Municipal where women prepare gorditas from the early hours of the morning.
2STOP
uarded by the Cerro Sotolo and Cerro Soyayo, Tetela awakens every morning with its eyes set firmly on the past.
It looks back to a time when it was known as Tetela de Oro,
not Tetela de Ocampo, and its days were marked by the
rhythm of mining and the workshops producing wrought
iron. In the 19th century the liberal leanings of the town
would lead it to participate in numerous battles against
the conservatives. Furthermore, the incendiary Tetela will
always remember its participation in the battle known as
Batalla del Cinco de Mayo of 1862.
ConnectivityZacatlán de las Manzanas 57.8 km / 1:17 h.State road 575; federal road 148.
Puebla 86 miles / 2:23 hFederal roads 121, 119, 148.
Tlaxcala 67 miles / 1:50 hFederal roads 119, 121, 148.
Mexico City137 miles / 3 hFederal roads 150, 119, 121, 148.
How to Get ThereBy Car:From Ixtacamaxtitlán take federal road 125 to Chignahuapan, take the deviation to Aquixtla, then continue along the mountain road that connects Chignahuapan with Zacapoaxtla.
By Bus:From Mexico City – TAPO:Atah.From the City of Puebla –CAPU:Atah and Verdes.
Town HallTown HallPlaza de la Constitución s/n.T. (01797) 973 0006.
For the handicrafts
G
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
s
Tetela de Ocampo
Why visit?
73 72
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
The mist covered hills are custodians of the white houses with shingle roofs that are so symbolic of Tetela de Ocampo.
The mural Fecha Inmortal tells of the glorious battle to free the people of Puebla from the French.
Whether made with chicken, beef or pork, the aroma of tixmole will whet any appetite.
Festivals are held and confessions heard at the Parroquia de Santa María de la Asunción.
The history of Tetela can be learned by viewing the murals that adorn the walls of the Palacio Municipal. There are two in the events room, with one of them being modeled on a codex depicting the creation of the town while the other tells the story, in high relief, of the Batalla del Cinco de Mayo. However, it is the recently inaugurated mural in the arches of the Palacio that most dramatically tells the story of this glorious episode in the history of Tetela when the local people, or Tetelenses, and other mountain dwellers defeated the French. Benito Juárez, Ignacio Zaragoza and Melchor Ocampo all appear in the mural, along with “Los Tres Juanes” with their serious expressions and the air of dignity that only comes with the defense of national sovereignty. Entitled Fecha Inmortal the mural is the work of Sergio Ávalos, the artist who is currently working on the construction of a hemiciclo (semicircle) that will pay tribute to the Sixth Battalion of the National Guard of the State of Puebla.
Along De la Paz Avenue, to the west of the main square, you arrive at the Parroquia de Santa María de la Asunción. A bridge crosses the avenue and by simply crossing this bridge you will reach the home of the beloved Virgin, which was built in the 19th century. The church is orange with just one atrium and if you climb the bell tower you will see why it’s the hilltops swathed in mist and not the walls of the church that really protect the Virgin. Inside, the Virgin waits with her arms open wide and, surrounded by angels and cherubs, looks to the sky painted in oils on the ceiling of the dome. From the domed ceiling hangs an enormous chandelier that adds brightness and a glow to this meeting with the queen of Tetela.
The Highlights: The Museo de los Tres Juanes On the upper floor of the Palacio Municipal you will find this museum
exhibiting pre-Hispanic pieces found in the region along with the
objects most cherished by the people of Tetela: those that serve as
reminders of the town’s participation in the Batalla del Cinco de Mayo,
when a handful of Mexican heroes emerged during the defense of Puebla
and the nation during the Second French Intervention. These acts mark
a date worthy of commemoration: May 5th, 1862. The first room houses
pots, hand grenades, projectile tips, metates (grinding stones) and
fragments of figures dating from before the Spanish Conquest.
Discover the flavor of tixmole, an unforgettable part of the gastronomic tradition of the region. Marina Fuentes prepares it with the necessary love and care at her restaurant Casa Grande (3 Sur 22). Tixmole is a mole de olla that can be made using beef, chicken or pork and when it doesn’t include vegetables it will contain “chayotextle”, the root of the chayote squash.
mDRecommends
75 74
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
So as not to forget the bellicose events of the 19th century or the liberal sympathies that characterized the town at that time, the second room exhibits a canon used during the war, a pair of flags found on the
battlefield and an image of Melchor Ocampo, to whom Tetela now owes
its name. But perhaps the greatest treasures in the museum are the
portraits of “Los Tres Juanes”: Juan Crisóstomo Bonilla, Juan
Nepomuceno Méndez and Juan Francisco Lucas (the first two were from
Tetela while the third was born in Zacapoaxtla). These were the liberal
leaders who fought against the French at the head of the Sixth Battalion
of the National Guard of the State of Puebla and who later affiliated themselves, in 1867, to the Plan de Tuxtepec launched by Porfirio Díaz.
The museum’s collection also includes old tools used in the mines of this region and also recreates a miniature forging workshop, an activity that was a specialty of the Tetelenses but has gradually died out. A pair of traditional dresses and palm handicrafts complete the exhibits (Mon
to Fri, 9 am to 9 pm; Sun, 9 am to 4 pm; T. 01797 976 3287).
Hand CraftedYou really must visit Tetela on a Sunday for the domingos de plaza when artisans set up their eye-catching stalls in front of the Palacio Municipal. Here you will find petates (mats) and morrales (rucksacks), which are woven from palm leaf in the community of La Lagunilla, woven wool fabrics from Xaltatempa de Lucas, and quechquémitl from Hueyapan, beautiful triangular indigenous garments that are embroidered with a universe of designs, animals and flowers and are used by women as a wrap.
Máscaras de huehues—masks carved from cedar wood that form part of the colorful dances that inject life into the Festival del Huehue in February—, baskets made from reeds and figures made from tin and wire can also be found at these stalls, as can the fruit wines common to the region; there are plum, apple, peach and pine nut wines, as well as a wine made from “huiquiño”, a wild fruit.
If you’re lucky, in the neighboring community of Tlaxco you may find Alfonso Segura, an artisan surrounded by his hand crafted wooden spoons. You will be amazed to see him transform a piece of wood into a pair of large spoons, discovering how his art is not so much a work of the imagination as an almost primitive ritual for which not only the hands but also the feet work a small lathe on the floor. Curious visitors should also stop to see the leather belts Juan Méndez stamps and embroiders with cotton thread (his stall is on 3 Sur 5).
Right where the cantina El Atorón used to stand you can now buy the fruit wines made by Darío Torres (2 Sur 10). Across the road you will find the Pulquería El Tigre, a quaint place to enjoy this drink made from maguey.
mDRecommends
The second room of the Museo de Los Tres Juanes exhibits portraits and documents recalling the Batalla del Cinco de Mayo.
A native of Tetela, Juan Crisóstomo Bonilla earned a special place in the history of Mexico when he faced the French together with his two namesakes.
In this town people use their feet as well as their hands to craft unique pieces, such as the wooden spoons of Don Alfonso Segura. There are also baskets and saddlery items.
77 76
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
Ten minutes from the center of town is La Cañada, which is now almost a ghost town but that in the past was filled with the hustle and bustle of mining activity. The town produced great quantities of gold but today only memories remain of its golden age in the old signs and buildings that have been left abandoned.
Learn More
The Saturday preceding August 15—the day when the town’s patron saint, the Santísima Virgen de la Asunción, is celebrated—is when the festivities start for what was once a celebration of the abundance of peaches (very few orchards now remain) but which now serves as a week-long expression of the religiosity and folklore of Tetelenses. Nearby communities arrive carrying their saints, ready to participate in the procession staged on the day of the Virgin. The air is filled with music and fireworks as traditional dances are performed. There are basketball tournaments and comedians to make them laugh, book presentations, painting exhibitions and globes made from decorative perforated paper.
Peach Festival Nearby…
Aquixtla This small town is located nearly 10 miles from Tetela, on the road to Chignahuapan. The road runs through the middle of town and on one side are the stepped central square and the single story Palacio Municipal which extends its arches as if they were trying to imitate the mountain landscape beyond. On the other side, on Juárez Street, are the two 19th-century churches Aquixtla treasures. The first of these is the Parroquia de San Juan Evangelista, with a facade that is a universe of mosaics and stained glass windows. Inside the main altar features an image of San Juan holding a feather in one hand and a book of his mythic gospels in the other with an eagle perched on them. The second is the Capilla del Padre Jesús, the image used by the town for its most sincere worship. Dressed in a red and gold tunic, Jesus seems to illuminate all those who stand before him.
Las Cabañas Campo Real offer an excellent option for accommodation, in particular because the owner, Germán Romero, organizes expeditions to the nearby mountains; he also offers echinotherapy for children (2 Norte and 9 Poniente; T. 01797 973 0024).
Don’t Miss
In the Trees Eleven miles northwest of here is the community of Xaltatempa de Lucas where you will find the Cascada de Aconco waterfall. To get there you need to travel along a dirt road. From the federal road you can see the Cañón de Xaltatempa through which a river runs, indifferent to the walls of the canyon that reach up on both sides as if wanting to become trees. The Zempoal Tekitini group controls access to the two waterfalls (one of 328 feet and the other 130 feet). Here you can go abseiling, feel the wind on your face as you take the 525-foot zip line, take a stroll through a nursery of Ocote pines, eat fresh trout and spend the night in one of the three cabins. To the northeast of Tetela, in the community of Carreragco, you’ll find the Grutas de Acocomoca. This enclosed world measuring 200 yards long features a subterranean river and is replete with rocky formations.
In addition to the natural beauty, at the Cascada de Aconco you can participate in sporting activities such as abseiling.
The Cañón de Xaltatempa, set in the mountains, offers surprises for all who visit.
Las Cabañas Campo Real provide a good center of operations.
Near Aquixtla there are two waterfalls well worth visiting: El Salto de Tepexcanal and Popocaya. At the first you can go abseiling and both waterfalls form natural pools ideal for swimming. The easiest way to reach them is to take a taxi from the taxi rank in the town’s main square.
There are workshops here that also make Christmas tree ornaments, just like in the neighboring municipality of Chignahuapan, as well as maguey honey and handmade cheeses. However, the most popular activity here is the making of earthenware items which can be bought from the numerous stalls set up alongside the federal road or at the Sunday street market or tianguis.
The arches.
Clay pots.
The main square or Zócalo.
Parroquia de San Juan Evangelista.
79 78
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
Life Among Fruit and Clocks
The World of Apples Perhaps the first thing you should do when you get to Zacatlán —before an apple soft drink touches your lips and before you get a chance to satisfy the craving provoked by the sight of a bag of dehydrated apples—is go to the source of the beautiful, bright red fruit. A little over four miles from downtown you’ll find the little town of Tomatlán, full of orchards and plantations. Take a moment to visit the church, which is dedicated to San Joaquín and accompanied by a sole palm tree, looking something like an ascetic there by itself.
In Tomatlán you’ll find Rancho El Mayab (T. 01797 975 2227; cabanasenzacatlan.com.mx), a ranch dedicated to harvesting the earth’s gifts: pears, peaches, plums, but most of all, apples. In one visit you can learn all about fruit growing. There are also three cabins for those wishing to sleep among the apple trees and bikes can be borrowed to ride through the aromatic countryside.
3STOP
lanketed by fog according to the whims of the weather, when day breaks on this Magical Town, it’s hidden in the bush. Then the wind whisks the clouds away revealing the crags of Barranca de los Jilgueros, the town’s faithful companion. Here the only thing that’s never lacking is abundance: there’s no end to the scores of apples trees offering up their fruit, the monumental clocks devised
by the people’s ingenuity, and the bakeries that fills
the streets with sweet smells.
ConnectivityChignahuapan9.9 miles / 12 minFederal road 119.
Puebla76 miles / 2:35 hFederal roads 119, 121.
Tlaxcala57.8 miles / 1:30 hFederal road 119.
Ciudad de México102.5 miles / 3 hFederal roads 150, 119, 121.
How to Get ThereBy Car:It’s 36 miles—a little over two hours—from Tetela de Ocampo to Zacatlán on the inter-sierra road connecting the two towns.
By Bus:From Mexico City- Central del Norte: Futura, ATAH.- TAPO: ATAH.From the city of Puebla - CAPU:ATAH, Verdes.
Tourist InformationTown Hall T. (01797) 975 5987, ext 6.Two additional tourist info modules: next to the Reloj Floral in the Plaza Principal and the second at the southern access point, on Paseo de la Barranca.
For its apples and bread
b
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
s
Zacatlán
Why visit?
81 80
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
Whoever tries the apple soda will always remember the taste of this town in the Sierra.
The floral clock is the centerpiece of the Plaza de Armas.
Back in downtown Zacatlán, make sure you visit one of the hard cider shops such as Bodegas Delicia (Tercera de Galeana 5), the factory started by Gilberto and Ernesto Martínez in 1928 for producing apple wine. A few years later they started making hard cider and later the unforgettable apple soft drink for which the region is famous. You can enter the machine room to see how the beverages are made but you’ll likely spend most of your time going over the store’s shelves that are jam-packed with local goods. Jars of wine, creams, and jams made with regional fruits (quince, peach, blueberry, blackberry, capulín, and plum) will catch your eye as you try to decide which to treat your palate to first.
Central TimeUnlike other squares, Zacatlán’s Plaza de Armas centers on a giant flower-covered clock. Installed in 1986 by Relojes Centenario, the two faces operate simultaneously moved by a central mechanism. If you walk south across Parque Juárez you’ll come to the Parroquia de San Pedro y San Pablo, a mid-17th century building with a bold grey stone
facade. In its Neo-classical interior you can see Christ presiding over a white, gold-leaf altar attended on either side by none other than San Pedro and San Pablo. Before moving on from the church you’ve got to stop at the Capilla de Guadalupe and admire the colonial paintings with legends in Náhuatl as well as the stunning ceiling made of cedar beams.
Right by the church you can see the Conjunto Conventual Franciscano, displaying the typical soberness with which the Franciscan monks imprinted all their constructions in the 16th century. The church has three naves, and, at the very back, after a long row of arches, the Inmaculada Concepción fondly receives visitors. Above her, in a backlit niche, there’s San Francisco. And as you walk along the floor of ancient bricks you’ll find traces of lost frescoes on the wall and an organ in the choir waiting to be played again. Today you’ll find the Casa de la Cultura and its Museo Comunitario Luciano Márquez Becerra occupying the cloister. This is the place to come to learn about the town’s history and pre-Hispanic past.
Burras, picadas, morelianas, gusanos, and almohadas... all but various incarnations of the bread that put Zacatlán on the map: stuffed with ranchero cheese and sprinkled with pink sugar. You’ll have no problem finding trays full of it in the most traditional bakeries: La Fama de Zacatlán (Luis Cabrera and Ocampo), Pimentel (Luis Cabrera 15), Vázquez (Melchor Ocampo 4), or La Nacional (Luis Cabrera 56).
mDRecommends
Nearby...
Ahuacatlán This little town nestled among the mountains is 22 miles from Zacatlán. Seen from afar, the contrast of its orange church against a verdant green background delights the eyes. In person, a walk through the main square, or Zócalo—surrounded by old houses and their Spanish-tile roofs—uplifts the spirit. A clock in the center marks the hours that pass unhurriedly by. Populated by the Nahua and the Totonac, this town has its fair share of traditions. But here in the center there are two treasures in store for visitors.
The first is the Cascada Akuaticpak waterfall—hidden among the trees along with the Ixquihuacan River. The waterfall is not very high, but it strikes with enough force to soothe anyone who stops to admire its flow. The second is the Parroquia de San Juan Bautista, an 18th-century structure whose facade features the Baroque styling the indigenous made their own. From the twisted exterior columns you’d hardly guess what’s inside: a series of Solomonic Baroque altarpieces (the main one still retaining its gilt, the others now bare) that could well belong to a lavish urban cathedral.Zócalo.
Central clock. Parroquia de San Juan Bautista.
Cascada Akuaticpak.
83 82
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
Highlights: Museo de Relojes y Autómatas Alberto Olvera Hernández We make clocks to feel time in the ticking of hands, to keep it close and not let it get too far away or go by too fast. But in Zacatlán people began making monumental-sized clocks at the beginning of the 20th century, when Don Alberto Olvera Hernández set to the task of making enormous, grandiloquent clocks. His works adorned churches, towers, and squares first in Mexico and then abroad. The clocks are known as Centenarios.
His sons learned the trade and today it’s his grandchildren, Luis and José Luis Olvera, who run the factory they inherited, which, as of 1993, also includes a museum. Thus anyone stepping foot inside this museum will find clocks in full production. While their grandfather only made mechanical clocks, the following generations would have to develop electro-mechanical clocks.
While the manufacturing marches forward, the museum takes you back to the most ancient clocks—those that used the sun, shadows, water, sand, or fire to measure time. It covers monumental clocks and those made to decorate walls and shows us how the need to take time everywhere resulted in pocket and wristwatches (Nigromante 3; Mon to Fri, 10 am to 5 pm; Sat and Sun, until 3 pm).
Master HandsNext to the Ex Convento Franciscano, in the Plaza Santa Cecilia, objects created by artisan hands come together (Mon to Thu, 10 am to 5 pm). Here you’ll find embroidery from Huauchinango, clay jars from San Miguel Tenango as well as blouses and hair ribbons. There are also figurines made from totomoxtle (corn leaf) and reed-woven baskets. Objects made from pine needles will catch your eye: jewelry boxes, headbands, earrings, and even brooches. Some artisans make acorn purses while others use istle fiber to weave not just purses but also hats, belts, ornamental combs, and even lamps.
In the WoodsJust over six miles from downtown, you’ll find a three-tier waterfall whose total height comes to 886 feet. It is highly regarded by the people of Zacatlán. The Cascada de Tulimán is immersed in a pine and oak forest covering 227 acres. The water comes from the Quetzalapan River, which forcefully makes its way here where it hurriedly and relentlessly makes its descent, forming pools where people come to swim. The ecotourism park guarding this flowing wonder has placed cabins in the surrounding area as well as a camping area. There’s also a hanging bridge and a zip line.
See the show de autómatas (Animatronic Doll Show) that takes place on the balconies of the watch museum. Seven dolls dressed in the typical costume of different states appear at the window as digital carillon plays famous melodies (Fri, Sat, and Sun at 9 pm; Sat and Sun also at 12 and 2 pm).
Don’t Miss
Spotting a beautiful corn-leaf doll can brighten your day as you walk through the Plaza Santa Cecilia.
The museum where time is kept bears the name of the founder of Relojes Centenario.
Following Luis Cabrera Street just out of town, you’ll come to the neighboring community of Jicolapa. That’s where Los Pericos, the first wine and liquor factory, was founded. A sunset stroll among its Spanish-tiled roofs and the illuminated facade of the Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Luz can be rewarding.
Learn More...
Nearby...
Zapotitlán de Méndez Located 23 miles from Ahuacatlán, Zapotitlán de Méndez is a steamy, Totonac town at the base of the mountains where there is little wind or noise. The Zempoala River runs through here. This river that runs by cliffs and oak trees knows the geography of the Sierra Norte by heart. An old stone bridge crosses the river. Zapotitlán greets each new day with its cobblestone streets, a downtown pavilion, and the chiming of bells of the campanile of the Parroquia de la Santísima Virgen de la Natividad calling people to mass. Built at the end of the 19th century, a stone frame on the church’s simple facade encloses carved flowers. As visitors enter the heavy cedar doors they are greeted by the imperturbable gaze of the Virgin cloaked in her blue mantle and starry aureola.
From the church you can walk to the Cascada Cruz de Agua waterfall, a not-too-dense stream of water where locals come to cool off and thrill-seekers come to abseiling. Also in the vicinity are the Grutas Karmidas, the vaulted caves of stalactites and stalagmites that demand to be explored. Whoever endeavors to make it to the Grutas (there are guides to show the way) will be rewarded with a view they’d never dreamed of: there’s a lake in which the rock formations are reflected, fooling your eyes into thinking they’re looking at an underwater city.
If you’re in Zapotitlán you’ve got to eat at El Buen Sazón (Vicente Guerrero, above the primary school). This is where you can try the dishes that your palate won’t soon forget: gorditas stuffed with pata de gallo (a local herb), fava bean soup with rice, nopals, and spearmint, and tixmole (beef stew).
mDRecommends
Pavilion with the church tower in the background.
The streets of Zapotitlán.
Always affable townspeople.
Panoramic view of Zapotitlán de Méndez.
85 84
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
Additionally, you can bathe in a mineral water spring. Those interested can also go abseiling down a cliff, climb trees, or check out the dark inside of
a hollow tree (Mon to Sun, 8 am to 6 pm).A world of forests and solitary rocks unfolds 17.4 miles from Zacatlán.
Every afternoon parts of the landscape disappear under a white mantle of
fog. This is the Valle de las Piedras Encimadas, where the eyes wander only
to settle on the strange rocky formations found here. The valley’s stones,
which appear to have been “stacked” on top of one another, were actually
carved by the elements. It would appear that an inspired Mother Nature
decided to sculpt one day or to playfully juxtapose stones the next.
Horseback and wagon tours are available, but perhaps there’s no better way
to see the valley than renting a bike at the entrance. There’s also a camping
area and a 393-foot zip line (Mon to Sun, 9 am to 4 pm).
Riding through the Valle de las Piedras Encimadas on horseback is a memorable experience.
The Cascada de Tulimán inspires awe as it noisily rushes down.
• The Festival Ilhuitl Cuaxóchitl takes place during Holy Week—three days of dance and indigenous traditions. Representatives from the municipality’s different regions come to Zacatlán from San Miguel Tenango, Xonotla, Cuacuila, Zoquitla, Yehuala, and San Cristóbal Xochimilpa to celebrate the crowning of a local queen with food and dance.
Festivities• The first Saturday prior to August 15
(Virgen de la Asunción Day, the patron saint of fruit growers) marks the start of Zacatlán’s biggest festival, the Feria de la Manzana, celebrating its most famous fruit. During the week of celebrations an apple blessing is performed at the Parroquia de San Pedro y San Pablo, the Virgen de la Asunción is paraded through the streets accompanied by the Reina de la Manzana (Apple Queen), and apples are tossed in
abundance from floats. The most beautiful handicrafts are on display and you can witness dances, concerts, and poetry readings.
• The Festival de la Sidra is held in November, when the biggest hard cider manufacturers (Bodegas Delicia, Sidrera San Rafael, Manzanita Zacatlán, Vinos Martínez, and Los Manzanos Zacatlán) come together in the main square to display their products and elect a queen.
A stone’s throw from the Cascada de Tulimán you’ll find the Campestre La Barranca cabins equipped with fireplace and a view of the Barranca de los Jilgueros. A good site for spending the night if you prefer to be surrounded by nature (Km 66.5 on the Apizaco-Zacatlán road; T. 01797 975 2233; campestrelabarranca.com.mx).
Don’t Miss
Flavors of the SierraFrom escamoles to tamales de hollejo, here are the culinary delights of the Sierra Mágica that you do not want to miss.
Acachul: Liquor made from this wild fruit, similar to a grape or the capulín, it turns purple when cut open. Look for it in Pahuatlán, Huauchinango, and Xicotepec.
Acamayas: This crustacean is a delicacy in Huauchinango, Xicotepec, and Cuetzalan. Anyway you try it—al ajo (with garlic), a la mantequilla (in butter), or in chilpachole (broth made from chile ancho)—you won’t soon forget it.
Chícalas: Giant winged ants that emerge with the first rains and are eaten fried with chiltepín (a type of chili pepper) or prepared in sauce. Enjoyed in Xicotepec and Pahuatlán.
Chile con huevo: This dish of the Sierra is found in Zacatlán, Huauchinango, or Xicotepec. Consists of eggs in a number of types of chili sauces: macha, mora, verde, roja, pasilla.
Conejo enchiltepinado: Rabbit cooked in the chili that most abounds in the Sierra: chiltepín. Found in Xicotepec, Chignahuapan, and Zacatlán, among other places.
Escamoles: During Lent you’ll find the celebrated ant larvae hitting the frying pan in Ixtacamaxtitlán and Chignahuapan.
Frijoles con xocoyoli: This dish is made in Cuetzalan and consists of beans with the stalk of a local plant, the xocoyoli. The indigenous people tend to boil the plant with a bit of ash in order to reduce its bitter flavor.
Fruit jams and liqueurs: In all the towns of the Sierra you’ll find people making the most of the fruits at hand to fill bottles and jars. Passionfruit, jobo (a hard, acidic fruit), pineapple, capulín, or quince: any flavor is something to be experienced.
Mixiotes de carnero: You’ll find the practice of rubbing meat with chili and wrapping it in the film of the maguey used for making pulque common throughout the Sierra. For example, try Zacatlán, Chignahuapan, or Ixtacamaxtitlán.
Pan de queso: The sweet bread that fills the bakeries of Zacatlán and Chignahuapan. It’s filled with ranchero cheese and pink sugar.
Tamales de hollejo and de pascal: Both of these tamales are common in Pahuatlán. Tamales de hollejo are made with the skins of corn kernels while the tamales de pascal are made with a mix of beans and peanuts.
Tamales de puñete: Puñete refers to a fist, which these tamales resemble. Part of Huauchinango’s culinary repertoire.
Tlacoyos o tlayoyos: Corn-based snacks found throughout the Sierra. Filled with beans or a paste made from fava beans and avocado leaf.
Tixmole: The traditional stew prepared with beef, pork, or chicken in Tetela de Ocampo and Zapotitlán de Méndez. Sometimes chayote root, or “chayotextle,” is added in place of vegetables. Elsewhere, like in Tlatlauquitepec, this dish is known as “chilpozontle.”
Yolixpa: Lovingly shared throughout the Sierra, no one passes up this herbal liqueur. It’s not only good for raising spirits, it also “cures spooks,” relieves pain, and relaxes the muscles.
Chícalas.
Pan de queso.
Tamales de puñete.
Frijoles con xocoyoli.
Yolixpa.
Chile con huevo in salsa macha with cured beef.
87 86
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
The Town of Colors
Around the PavilionDowntown always revolves around this brightly-colored pavilion. Built of wood in 1871, with an intricate framework only seen in Mudejar art, the pavilion witnesses the daily comings and goings of the Plaza de la Constitución. Underneath there’s a fountain that is sometimes forgotten. A few steps away a pair of busts pay solemn tribute to Rafael Méndez and Ildefonso Illescas. The former taught the town the craft of sphere-making, the latter was the priest who labored to see that the Basílica de la Inmaculada Concepción was erected. A statue of Gaspar Henaine, better known as “Capulina,” serves as reminder that the famous comedian was born here.
4STOP
his town is known for its colorful houses, its colorful pavilion and its colorful handicrafts. Where the wind blows the most vibrant tonalities around until everything is left bright and colorful. It was once Totonac territory. In the times of Hernán Cortés it was El Tetehuitic, where the Chichimecs worshipped Mixcóatl, the god of rain. It was and still is a place where the water flows.
Its lake and its rivers, its waterfall and hot springs
all tell of its abundance.
ConnectivityHuauchinango40.4 miles / 40 minHighways 130, 180;Federal roads 132, 119.
Puebla65.9 miles / 1 hFederal roads 121, 119.
Tlaxcala47.8 miles / 50 minFederal roads 121, 119.
Mexico City93.2 miles / 2 hHighway 150;Federal roads 121, 119.
How to Get ThereBy Car: It’s only 9.9 miles from Zacatlán to Chignahuapan. Just take federal road 119 south toward Tlaxco.
By Bus:From the city of Puebla - CAPU:
ATAH y Verdes.From Mexico City - TAPO:
ATAH.
Tourist InformationOffice of TourismHidalgo 3, Centro. T. (01797) 971 1578.
T
For its lake and its spheres
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
s
Chignahuapan
Why visit?
89 88
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
The day to day activities of Chignahuapan occur amongst the fog.
The murals of the Palacio Municipal relate the history of this Magical Town.
It’s a delight to take a detailed look at the Parroquia de Santiago Apóstol.
The Palacio Municipal and the Parroquia de Santiago Apóstol frame the eastern edge of the square. Stop at the entrance to the Palacio for a peek at a pair of murals that tell you everything you need to know about Chignahuapan—from the pre-Hispanic legend that relates its founding or the dance of Los Santiagueros that honors the town’s patron saint, to the thousand-light offering held
on the Day of the Dead.
The church is a whole other universe inviting you to slowly,
inquisitively approach. While the church was established in the 16th
century, the current mortar facade was designed and retouched between
1752 and 1822. It’s one of the best examples of Baroque with indigenous
styling. Laborers hid their gods among the series of Christian images.
Just look and you’ll find something. For example, the rain god Tláloc is
among the fruits and reliefs. The gargoyles are in the form of serpents
who silently hold prayers directed to Quetzalcóatl. Above, in the third
tier, Santiago Apóstol appears in high relief. He seems to bear the entire
Middle Ages with him: mounted on his horse with his sword drawn, and
the flag waving as if all the battles were just beginning. The first clock
manufactured by the famous Centenario factory in Zacatlán can be
found in the right-hand tower. Inside the church above a Neo-classical
altar there’s the Virgen de la Asunción. She is flanked on either side by
a pair of Baroque altarpieces, dedicated to the Sagrado Corazón and the
Inmaculada Concepción.
The latter has a home only a stone’s throw from the main square,
on Romero Vargas Street. It’s the Basílica Menor de la Inmaculada Concepción and it only exists thanks to the efforts of Father Ildefonso
Illescas, who, instead of tithe, requested that the faithful help out by
bringing stones for its construction. Of enormous proportions at 46
feet high, with her blue mantle flying behind her, the image of the
Inmaculada seems to welcome anyone who approaches her. José Luis
and Carmen Silva made the image in the 1960s entirely from cedar. In
the arms the Virgin carries the baby Jesus who in turn holds in the
dove of the Holy Spirit.
The spectacular image of the Inmaculada Concepción carved in cedar.
The Parroquia de Santiago Apóstol watches over the calm of this one-of-a-kind town.
Stop in at the Panadería La Condesa (Romero Vargas 32) and try the pan de higo (fig bread) they make there. You’ll also find the typical pan de queso that Chignahuapan shares with Zacatlán, and “pan de cuelga,” which used to be given away as sign of commitment.
Don’t Miss
91 90
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
The Laguna de Chignahuapan Located in downtown, this mythical lake is a must-see. It gave the town its name. Its nine springs, or waterholes, are precisely what the Náhuatl term “Chignahuapan” means. In November a torch procession leads here to celebrate the Festival de la Luz y de la Vida at the theater. And there’s a pre-Hispanic legend that says that all souls must first pass through nine steps (nine waterholes) before reaching
the Mictlán. Symbolism aside, the lake demands a prolonged look.
Sparkling, with the reflection of passing clouds, it’s the perfect place
for a boat ride. It’s also perfect for receiving trout-fishing enthusiasts
at the Torneo de Pesca de Trucha in September.
Master HandsThere was a time when wood was Chignahuapan’s lifeblood.
Its inhabitants learned that they could make a living from the
trees and went to work developing certified forests, opening sawmills,
and creating furniture. Then the Michoacán native Rafael Méndez
came to town. It was he who taught the people here how to create
Christmas ornaments. Little did he know that three decades later
there would be hundreds of workshops like the one he first set up.
Made of blown glass and painted by hand, the spheres are one
of the most highly valued objects in this Magical Town.
Those interested in ceramics should visit the workshop of the
Castro Sosa family (Manuel Ávila Camacho, no number, in the Corredor Educativo). These four brothers learned how to shape clay from their
father using the clay found in the area. They made flowerpots, pitchers,
serving dishes, and whatever their imagination dictates. A wood-fire
brick kiln is used to fire the pieces. It’s no surprise that their passionate
work is certified by FONART.
In the Woods At the border with Zacatlán, a little over four miles from
Chignahuapan, you’ll find the Salto de Quetzalapan and the
centro turístico (tourist center) developed based on this bountiful
656-foot high waterfall. A hydroelectric plant was established
here years ago, in 1930. By the 1970s it was hardly being used.
As a reminder of those times you’ll still find an old rusty engine
room on the trail leading to the foot of the falls. The water pertains
to the Quetzalapan River, originating at the Laguna de
Chignahuapan. Here people go abseiling down the side of the
waterfall. The fearless zip line above it, or allow their kids to do
so on the children’s zip line, which crosses the river. They also
walk along the adrenaline inducing high-voltage cable. There’s
also a campground (Km 7 on the Chignahuapan-Zacatlán road).
• July 25 is the Fiesta Patronal de Santiago Apóstol. But the festivities begin on the 20th and end on the 28th so as to allow enough time for organizing donkey races, top-spinning and cup-and-ball toy competitions, and dances like the chotis. In remembrance of the old pulquería (pulque bar) La Querendona, a recreation is set up in the main square. And there’s no forgetting that the Festival del Pulque y la Barbacoa is held at the same time, given that both pulque and barbacoa are freely available to passers by.
Festivities• From the last weekend of October
to the first weekend of November the Feria Nacional del Árbol y la Esfera takes place. In two weeks everything that matters in Chignahuapan happens. Tribute is paid to the production of the Christmas spheres and ornaments that have brought such fame to the town. It’s a celebration of life with music and games, handicraft stalls, pulque and barbacoa, the crowning of a queen, and it wouldn’t be complete without a parade of floats.
• When it comes to Día de Muertos (The Day of the Dead) the
celebrations take on a different tone. In the morning people leave in costumes to roam the main streets while a fake cemetery in front of the Parroquia de Santiago Apóstol rounds up the atmosphere. There’s a sight worth watching in the afternoon—the Festival de la Luz y de la Vida. In this celebration of light and of life, over a thousand torches symbolizing an offering are distributed and a pilgrimage slowly advances from the church, down the Calzada de las Almas, until it reaches the Laguna de Chignahuapan and the theater built on its shore. A pre-Hispanic ritual, fireworks, and a sense of belonging fill the hearts of those present.
Taste the chalupas and tlacoyos, conejo en adobo (rabbit in adobo sauce), or conejo al chiltepín (rabbit in chili sauce) at the restaurant Rincón Mexicano (Nigromante 33). Also try the tacos de mixiote de res that they’ve been making at the Taquería Mejorada (Guerrero 13) for over 40 years. Lovers of the Mexican favorite barbacoa (pit-barbecued goat) won’t want to miss it at El Asadero or Don Carmelo (both on Romero Vargas).
mDRecommends
Laguna de Chignahuapan, full of mystery and apt for enjoying with the family.
At Salto de Quetzalapan there are countless options allowing you to directly interact with nature.
The Castro family preserves the tradition of sculpting clay to create beautiful works.
93 92
Discover Puebla
Nearby...
Aguas Termales On the road to Aguas Termales, in the Barrio de Ixtlahuaca, you’ll find the Santuario del Honguito, the church that houses a strange petrified mushroom. They say it was found by miracle in 1880 and if you’re surprised it’s because on it you can see, through a magnifying lens, the figure of Christ.
Submerged in a ravine, not even four miles from the town of the colors, there’s the Aguas Termales de Chignahuapan spa and resort. The Ajajalpan River runs through here on its way to the sea at Veracruz. But unlike the rushing river, here time is spent doing nothing but soaking the body in the calming warm waters. Guests staying in any of the hotel’s 65 rooms (each with a bathtub fed with warm spring water) have access to the 11 private pools. You can also pay general access and stroll among the public pools, of which there are both indoor and outdoor, the latter against a backdrop of crowded mountains. Whatever you do, everything here has the effect of soothing the soul—hot stone massages, thermal mud wraps, the temazcal. Relaxing oils made with citrus, rose creams, and wild roots are available for purchase as well as artisan soaps and face masks. And life goes on slow, wet, and perfect (Barrio de Tenextla, no number; T. 01797 971 0982; www.termaleschignahuapan.com.mx).
Hacienda Amoltepec Just over four miles from Chignahuapan there’s a hacienda that was once dedicated to farming but now, as of three years ago, seeks to salvage the maguey cultivation and pulque production. Witnessing this fermented beverage’s magical production process is something worth considering. Here you’ll walk among maguey plants that have taken eight to ten years to mature. They are tented during full moons to keep the worms out and then shaven in a new moon to allow the “aguamiel” to trickle out in order to be turned into pulque. A visit to Amoltepec includes a tasting of the aguamiel and pulque, which is made here. The hacienda also has ten rooms that look
Aguas Termales.
Hacienda Amoltepec. Maguey farming at Hacienda Amoltepec.
Salto de Quetzalapan.
ATV tours around Chignahuapan.
Remains of the hydro-electric plant.
ATV and motocross are good options for exploring Chignahuapan’s surrounding areas. Monstruos de Agua offers tours ranging from one to seven hours. You’ll cross rivers, ravines, mountains, and caves. If you’re in Chignahuapan during the Feria Nacional del Árbol y la Esfera, you won’t want to miss the special route they organize for just one day (contact: Abel and Lázaro Rivera; C. 045797 113 5037 and C. 045797 105 8651; information also available at tourism offices).
Don’t Miss
as if they’ve been brought from the past. They’re arranged around a courtyard with a fountain in the middle. Horseback riding and mountain biking is possible in the vicinity, and boat rides are available on a lake that looks like it came out of a fairy tale (Km 3.5 on the Chignahuapan-Zacatlán road; T. 01797 598 0205; www.haciendaamoltepec.com).
95 94
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
Place of the Flowers
The Aroma of Toasted PeanutsHuauchinango’s shaded Plaza de la Constitución has it all: branches of privets, jacarandas, palm fronds, and ash trees mingle above while a central fountain competes with the wrought iron pavilion in the corner for attention. Among the busts in memory of great heroes there’s the like of Rafael Cravioto, the distinguished liberal military man who was born here and is recognized for his participation in the U.S. Invasion, the Reform War, and the Second French Intervention. Women from Cuacuila are also present. They sit on the ground with their long nahuas and embroidered blouses selling tamales de puñete (which get their name from their resemblance to a puño, or fist) and boiled or toasted peanuts to anyone who passes by.
5STOP
art of Texcoco until the fall of Tenochtitlan, its advantageous geographical position led this town to become a stopover and trading point between Mexico City and Veracruz’s ports. “Surrounded by trees,” in Náhuatl, it’s also surrounded by rivers and waterfalls, reservoirs forming watery landscapes, and the ever-present Cerro de Zempoala. But Huauchinango is also azaleas, the queens of a retinue of flowers that never seem to end.
ConnectivityXicotepec14.9 miles / 30 minFederal road 130.
Puebla105.6 miles / 1:45 hFederal roads 119, 121, 132.
Tlaxcala87 miles / 1:25 hFederal roads 119, 121, 132. Ciudad de México110 miles / 2 hHighway 150; federal roads 121, 119, 132.
How to Get ThereBy Car: Take highway 119 from Chignahuapan toward Beristáin, follow federal road 119 until the Tejocotal bypass connecting to Huauchinango. By Bus:From the city of Puebla - CAPU:Atah and Verdes.From Mexico City - TAPO:ADO. Del Norte Central Bus Station: ADO, AU y Atah. Del Sur Central Bus Station:ADO.
Tourist InformationTown Hall Plaza de la Constitución (no number), Centro.T. (01776) 762 0699.
For its reservoir, lakes and waterfalls
p
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
s
Huauchinango
Why visit?
97 96
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
A stroll through the streets allows a glimpse into the essence of this town that’s full of warmth.
From different eras, the Santuario del Señor en su Santo Entierro and the Iglesia de la Asunción contrast widely in their architecture but not in the love of their parishioners.
One of the delicacies of the Sierra Mágica is salsa con chiltepín, a typical regional flavor.
Walk just a bit and you’ll arrive at Guillermo Ledesma y Manjarrez Street where there seems to be a gathering of churches. What started out in the 16th century as an Augustinian monastery is now the Santuario del Señor en su Santo Entierro, a church in the name of the town’s patron saint. With its exposed stone walls and an ambiance of simple tranquility, the complex has nothing more in the way of adornments that a central cross and the reclined image of Christ. To the right, a mural by Raúl Domínguez depicts the vicissitudes the church has undergone. On one side you’ll find the Capilla de la Virgen
de Guadalupe and in front of church extends the grandiloquent Iglesia de la Asunción. Its giant blue dome attracts the eye, which, just getting used to such immensity, is thankful for the chandelier hanging in the center with silver spheres looking like miniature planets.
A couple of pavilions in the central garden sell regional products such as embroidered blouses, wooden toys from Tlacomulco, candies and jams, as well as the ever-sought-after macadamia nut and chiltepín chili. Additionally, there’s the handicrafts shop El Sabor de la Sierra (Plaza Maratea, Juárez 5), and on Guillermo Ledesma y Manjarrez Street there’s another place selling the creations of artisans.
Make the most of the abundant supply of macadamia nuts and try some every chance you get while in Huauchinango. Also look for chiltepín salsas, which are prepared in molcajetes (mortar and pestles), especially those mixed with ground peanuts. Don’t pass up your chance to try barbacoa (pit-roasted goat), gorditas (cornflour patties), and chile con huevo (eggs with salsa verde or salsa morita). Tostadas and enchiladas are part of the offerings at town restaurants. The hotel restaurants at La Casona (Hidalgo 5) and Mesón del Portal (Portal Hidalgo 1) are good dining options.
mDRecommends
Rafael Cravioto, one of Huauchinango’s most revered heroes, is buried in the Panteón Municipal. His mausoleum is the work of Italian sculptor Adolfo Ponzanelli, the student of none other than Auguste Rodin. Ponzanelli was also influential in the construction of the Palacio de Bellas Artes in Mexico City.
Learn More...
99 98
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
Go to Tenango de las Flores not only for its beautiful reservoir but also for its ornamental plants at the Mercado Isabel Díaz Castilla (Mon to Sun, 7 am to 6 pm). This is an orderly world of leafy plants and flowers where agapanthus and bromeliads are for sale along with azaleas, orchids, and violets. You can also purchase cinnamon, pineapple, orange, and pepper trees.
Learn More...
The Consejo Municipal de Turismo makes it possible to explore the areas surrounding Huauchinango (with packages that include meals and lodging). They can take you to the reservoirs (boat and horseback rides) and the multiple waterfalls found in the municipality like the Cascada Xopanapa where you can practice abseiling, and the Cascadas de Totolapa and the Cascada de Tío Checo (contact Hugo Carlos Cabrera; C. 045776 767 8625; [email protected]).
Keep in Mind
Five miles from Huauchinango down the México-Tuxpan road and via the old Puente de Totolapa there’s Campestre Las Truchas. This small reservoir with its waterfall and the invitation to spend the afternoon horseback riding promises an afternoon in full contact with nature. Not to mention you can get trout prepared any way you like.
Don’t Miss
• Lent kicks off with the Carnaval de Huauchinango (in February), when the traditional “huehues” take to the streets. Each neighborhood elects a group to dress up and dance to nonstop music and delight. A contest is held to award the best outfit, dancer, and latiguero (whipper).
Festivities• The Feria de las Flores takes place
at the end of February and beginning of March every year since 1938. Nine days of festivities commence with honors to the town’s patron saint, the Señor en su Santo Entierro, considered the protector of roads and mule drivers. The scene is set with a pilgrimage
of azaleas of all colors. Then, all kind of plants and ornamental flowers are put on display. There’s music, dancing, and fireworks. Between the carpets of flowers and the parade of floats, don’t miss the crowning of the Reina de las Flores.
Among Reservoirs Born in the very early days of the 20th century, when Porfirio Díaz was still inaugurating major projects that he’d later be commemorated for, the Sistema Hidroeléctrico Necaxa was the first system to provide power to the country’s central plateau. This required the building of five dams (one of which, El Tejocotal, belongs to the state of Hidalgo; the other four forming part of the territory of Huauchinango and other municipalities). Lucky for us the dams not only have a utilitarian purpose but can also be appreciated for the watery horizons they create, allowing the eye to wander.
Just over six miles to the northwest of Huauchinango you’ll find the Presa Necaxa (shared with the municipality of Juan Galindo). This is the biggest of all five and is connected to the others via a complex tunnel system. Venustiano Carranza supposedly came here twice. Nowadays it’s the visitor who comes to be awed as trees and clouds swirl about the water’s calm surface.
A few miles away there’s the Presa Tenango. In the 1950s it served as the stage on which María Félix and Pedro Infante would shine as only they knew how on the silver screen during the filming of Tizoc. The tiny stone house where they fell in love, if only in fiction, can still be seen in front of the reservoir. Boat rides and horseback riding are available here, as well as ziplining. A seafood restaurant on the shore satisfies any craving, or if you prefer, there’s the tlacoyos sold from the baskets of women who walk around the area. At Christmas time the atmosphere fills with smell of pine trees and the sight of poinsettias for sale. The other reservoir you’ve got to visit is the Presa Nexapa, probably
the most enchanting of them all (six miles from Tenango). The nursery on one shore makes it so that people have to transport their plants by boat in order to get to Tenango’s market. If you’re lucky you’ll be able to see this slow, beautiful aquatic ceremony. Framed by the fog against a backdrop of green, a lone castle adds just the right touch of fantasy to this landscape.
The Tamales of CuacuilaA little over a mile from Huauchinango the community of Cuacuila is on the map. This is where people used to speak with fire when it came to asking someone to marry, where the silk worms that live in the canopy of trees give the town its name. Nahuatl is still spoken and the women have not shed the custom of dressing as those who came before them. They are known for their embroidery on blouses, napkins, and tablecloths, which you can find among the handicraft stands of Huauchinango. But what really gets people’s attention are the tamales that are made here. The Feria del Tamal takes place the second Sunday of June. That’s when the famous tamales de puñete (filled with chicken, rajas, or beans) and tamales de papantla (filled with various ingredients and wrapped in the leaf of the papantla plant) are given away.
Incomparable moments give rise where nature and the hand of man together create idyllic landscapes, such as those at Presa Necaxa and Presa Tenango.
Discover enchanting hideaways biking around Presa Nexapa.
101 100
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
Nearby...
AhuazotepecThis town is located on the road between Zacatlán and Huauchinango (18.6 miles before reaching Huauchinango). It was once an Otomí community and is now a transportation center for large volumes of goods: sand, mosaics, livestock, and fruit. Life is centered on the Parroquia de San Nicolás de Tolentino, the church that was erected in the 19th century in honor of the town’s patron saint. Inside the church you can see the Augustinian saint carrying a dove and a tray of bread. He’s barefoot and wears a dark star-covered tunic. However, it’s the Señor de los Amparados who has won the heart of the people. The town’s people are honest workers who prepare tlacoyos on Cuauhtémoc Street or sell pulque on Mondays at the outdoor market. Check out the artisan Manuel Islas at his rustic chair shop. The frame is made of ocote pine and the seat is woven from reed.
NaupanThis town lies hidden among the mountains 10.6 miles to the north of Huauchinango. Here you’ll find images that leave their mark on the spirit. Endless landscapes of air and clouds, of trees, fields, and pigeons come to roost on rooftops. The women keep tradition alive in the way they dress. Surrounded by coffee and chili pepper fields, this Nahua town easily wins visitors over.
People put peanuts out to dry on floors and on rooftops. On Mondays the Plaza Principal is filled with colors on market day. At the Iglesia de San Marcos the people pray to their patron saint. In his bright orange house of worship, the saint hears the people’s prayers. The ceiling is crossed by wood beams and the altar is of Baroque stipe.
It’s a good chance to enjoy the rhythm of the highlands and visit churches in a couple of neighboring towns: the Parroquia de San Isidro Labrador in Iczotitla (just over a mile away) and the Parroquia de San Bartolomé in Chachahuantla (over four miles away).
At the El Portón restaurant (Magisterio Nacional 8) try something to please the palate: jerk beef, roast beef chops, conejo en salsa verde (rabbit in green chili sauce), beef mixiotes and barbacoa with chickpeas and carrots.
mDRecommends In Naupan people typically eat mole
poblano, tamales de bola (made with pork and guajillo chili) and pascal (made from pumpkin seeds). For local flavor head to the cocina económica (a family-owned restaurant) on Villa Juárez Street. There you can also find embroidered blouses and the typical and gorgeous quechquemitl.
Don’t Miss
Ahuazotepec’s main square. Manuel Islas in his chair shop.
The town’s steep streets.
Parroquia de San Nicolás Tolentino, Ahuazotepec.
Portraits.
Presa Humiltemi.
Parroquia de San Isidro Labrador, Iczotitla.
Parroquia de San Bartolomé, Chachahuantla.
Iglesia de San Marcos, Naupan.
103 102
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
The Smell of Sierra Coffee
A Good Cup of JoeWhen one thinks of Xicotepec, they think of coffee, so much so that the Plaza de la Constitución wouldn’t be the same if it didn’t sometimes smell like fresh roasted coffee, or without being able to watch the night fall from behind a cup of coffee at the cafeterias Bunte or Gonri. Surrounded by coffee plantations, the town has really made the most of the altitude and climate that fortune gave it. Walk along its long square, around the two-story pavilion and your gaze will settle on the corner of colorful wagons that have been used since the 1930s to transport small and heavy objects.
6STOP
nlike other spots on the map in the Sierra, Xicotepec turns out to be warmly engrossed in guava and mango trees. Its climate is more tropical, with a constant breeze coming from the Gulf. It’s no wonder then that “The Place of the Bumblebees,” as it is in Náhuatl, is also a town of coffee plantations. And so this little corner of the mountains greets the day smelling like coffee, believing in magic and in the ancient gods inherited from its pre-Hispanic past.
ConnectivityPahuatlán13.8 miles / 30 minFederal roads 130, 132; unnumbered state road.
Puebla114.9 miles / 2 hFederal roads 121, 119, 130.
Tlaxcala96.9 miles / 1:45 hFederal roads 121, 119, 130.
Mexico City119.9 miles / 2:20 hHighway 132; federal roads 121, 119, 130.
How to Get ThereBy Car:Head north from Huauchinango taking federal road 130 that leads to Tuxpan. It’s about 15 miles.
By Bus:From the city of Puebla – CAPU: ATAH, Verdes.From Mexico City – TAPO: ATAH.
Tourist InformationTown HallPlaza de la Constitución, no number.T. (01764) 764 2419.
For its coffee plantations
U
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
s
Xicotepec
Why visit?
105 104
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
The Palacio Municipal, the Parroquia de San Juan Bautista and the placid pavilion—where locals meet to enjoy their Magical Town—all make up the Plaza Constitución.
The smell of the coffee bean leads the way to the places where you can try it a thousand different ways.
The magic of ancient gods is harnessed at Xochipila, a sacred place.
The south end of the square is occupied by the Palacio Municipal, which houses the meaningful and pre-Hispanic teponaxtle, an ebony instrument used in the ceremony held on June 24th in La Xochipila. The town hall building also contains murals by Felipe Castellanos telling the history and way of every day life of Xicotepec.
Walk along Iturbide Street, next to the Palacio, and you’ll come across the Parroquia de San Juan Bautista, formerly known as the Parroquia del Calvario. It’s a 16th-century construction built by Augustinian monks which was continually modified leaving its facade with its current Neo-Gothic appearance. A large wooden door surrounded by ogival arches leads to the Neo-Classical interior. Here you’ll find the image of Christ with San Juan Bautista and San José to one side.
A good bet for lodging is the Hotel Plaza San Carlos (Hidalgo 100; T. 01764 1291). The facilities are new and it’s steps away from the Zócalo.
mDRecommends
Two restaurants to treat your palate to Xicotepec cuisine are La Terraza (Hidalgo 100) and La Curva (5 de Mayo 162). In the former you’ll see a parade of chile con huevo (eggs in macha or mora chili sauce), cecina (beef jerky), chicharrón en salsa verde (cracklings in chili sauce), and mole poblano. There’s also gorditas (stuffed cornflour patties), tostadas, and molotes (made of corn dough and mashed potatoes). One of the town’s favorite brands of coffee is served there, too: Café Premier. The menu of the latter features quail eggs, acamayas (crawfish) in garlic, butter, or chilpachole (made from ancho chili) sauces, conejo enchiltepinado (rabbit in chili sauce) and, when in season, chícalas (large ants that are toasted or prepared in macha sauce). Be sure to try macadamia nuts whenever you see them. Also, the locally-produced fruit wines and liqueurs, especially jobo (a hard, acidic fruit) and acachul (wild grape). The coffee cream and liqueur are a must.
mDRecommends
In the western arches you can see Don Aristeo Soto selling the bread he’s been mastering for over 25 years. It’s made in stone oven with the skill only he possesses. Every day the various bakery items fly off the shelf: conchas, polvorones de nuez, pan de manteca, and pan de queso (Mon to Fri, 2 pm to 6:30 pm).
Walk back to the Zócalo, or main square, along Porfirio Díaz Street to find the roasted coffee shop Cafecísimo by Creleg. Walk a little further and almost without realizing it there’s La Xochipila, the cliff that has always served as a ceremonial center for the people of Xicotepec. The town’s energy gathers here, as the people wish to renew themselves and express gratitude for that received year after year. It’s a mystical place full of syncretism. While Catholicism is not completely shrugged off, the belief in magic and ancient gods is certainly superimposed.
In the Woods Almost four miles down the road along the Xicotepec-Zihuatlán there’s the Centro Botánico El Ángel de tu Salud. This is a garden where medicinal plants are grown to later be turned into remedies and studied by herbalists. Only instead of just collecting the wild plants that must serve humankind, the purpose of this site is to propagate and conserve them, make them grow organically and domesticate
107 106
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
There is a space that brings together all of Xicotepec’s creative forces. It’s the artisan shop Ma-Xicotl (Vicente Suárez 105). There you’ll find everything from cushions embroidered with Nahua imagery and wooden bags to ceramic figurines and lamps made of rope. There are belts, leather boots, shirts, and shawl dresses. Let your eyes take in the different patterns of organic costume jewelry—earrings, necklaces, and bracelets—using coffee beans, coconut shell, beans, and orange peel as beads.
Keep in Mind
On June 24th a festival takes place in Xicotepec that mixes Catholic and pagan traditions. According to the religious calendar it’s the day of the town’s patron saint, but the indigenous population celebrates Juan Techachalco, the character who incarnates the attributes of both San Juan and of Xochipilli, the god of
flowers, shamans, and medicinal plants. The teponaxtle—the musical instrument the town reserves for this type of occasion—is then taken from the Palacio Municipal. And as the music is played a frenzied procession reaches La Xochipila, Xicotepec’s ancient ceremonial center. Not only do indigenous people make it out but
also white and black shaman to entrust themselves to those who watch over their trade. Limpias (cleanses) and healings are performed while the offering of flowers and food is enhanced with lively dances, incense, and cheer. People give thanks for favors received and make calls for their crops and their lives.
San Juan Bautista Festivities
Highlights: Museo Casa Carranza The old house where the body of Venustiano Carranza lay in repose before being transferred to Mexico City is now a museum dedicated to his memory. His viscera were kept in an urn here which today participates in a sorrowful ceremony held each year by his descendants. The museum exhibit is made up of plates telling the events around the death of the leader and president—from his persecution to the attempt on his life in 1920 and the funeral procession that saw his exit from Mexican history. There are also old photos of the town and the revolutionaries who came through. A video goes into greater detail of Carranza’s assassination while the mural produced by the Fundación Arellano remembers him proudly displaying the Constitution of 1917.
Ahuaxintitla Pay attention to the warm and pleasant ride full of green on the way from Xicotepec to Tlaxcalantongo. Try some pahuas (avocados from the Sierra Poblana) and the chalahuites (pods of cottony sweet seeds). The trees drop their fruit and the hens run loose, while people dry coffee beans on their porches. Be sure to check out a small church on the side of the road with a backdrop of crowded mountains. That’s the Iglesia de Santa María de Guadalupe, in Ahuaxintitla.
Monumental Virgen de GuadalupeIn place where there are more than a few things to be thankful for, where life is in bloom everywhere—in the water, the mountains, in bananas, limes, and melons—it comes as no surprise that the people of Xicotepec would want to give the Virgen de Guadalupe a huge statue of herself. It went up in 2006 over a stone bench at the site where she once appeared in the Barrio El Tabacal. She is surrounded by a small square made for looking at her. At over 75 feet, the Virgin of the green mantle forces visitors to raise their heads.
them. There are several gardens where you’ll find all kinds of plants growing under the sun: herbaceous plants, shrubs, vines, cactuses, succulents, and ornamental, shade, and water plants. You can walk among the jasmines and caesalpinia (a flowering plant sometimes known as the Mexican bird of paradise), through the echinacea, which boosts the immune system, and the golden root, which serves as a local anesthetic (to visit you’ll need to make a reservation through the office of tourism).
From here you can take the México-Tuxpan road and enter the town of Tlaxcalantongo (15.5 miles from Xicotepec) via Dos Caminos. A large stone monument and bronze sculpture remind us that this is where former president Venustiano Carranza was assassinated. The Cascadas Barbas de Carranza—a pair of waterfalls worth visiting—are found here. One is just off the road and not very big, while the other is buried among trees making games out of light and shade. Nearby, on the way to Ávila Camacho, there’s the Cilima River and its hanging bridge. You can go abseiling here in rainy season..
Centro Botánico El Ángel de tu Salud, a space for the conservation of medicinal plants.
The figure of Venustiano Carranza is present in the museum that bears his name and where the exploits of this hero are displayed. He is also honored at the waterfalls called Cascadas Barbas de Carranza.
The Iglesia de Santa María de Guadalupe in Ahuaxintitla and the enormous figure of the Virgen de Guadalupe in the Barrio El Tabacal show the people’s veneration.
In the bar El Gallo (Zaragoza Avenue 106) they serve a drink called “Padrecito.” It’s a rather curious blend of vodka and acachul (Xicotepec’s typical wine) with the addition of a lime popsicle.
mDRecommends
109 108
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
Hidden in the CloudsThe clouds hover low, looking as if they’re out to take over the red roofs of the Plaza Principal so as to have a better view of the show that occurs everyday on the ground. Children play in the space sometimes occupied by the Voladores (flying men) or the huapangueadas (music
festivals) while the central pavilion is impervious. Their mothers pass
by the palm trees on their way to the Mercado Municipal. And before
the women can be dazzled by the aromas and movement of the market
the bells of the Parroquia del Señor Santiago, next door, make them
direct their gaze heavenward. It’s the church that the Augustinian
monks bequeathed to the town in the 16th century. A century later
it was converted into a parish church.
7STOP
he town of fruits, where pahuas (avocados) and coffee
trees grow, is tinged with the flavors of mist and cloud
forests. No stranger to magic or shamans warding off evil,
it’s also the keeper of the art of papel amate (amate
paper), as well as the traditions that the Otomí and the
Nahua have preserved since the time when the Totonac
ceded the territory. Because Pahuatlán once belonged
to the great Totonacapan, and it was that ancient
kingdom who bestowed us with the gift of the ritual
dance of the flying men, which is shared
with Papantla and Cuetzalan.
ConnectivityXicotepec:34.2 miles / 1:30 hUnnumbered state road.
Pachuca:26.1 miles / 1 hFederal roads 132, 51, 52; unnumbered state road.
Puebla:123.7 miles / 3 hFederal roads 121, 119, 132; unnumbered state road.
Ciudad de México:101.9 miles / 2:40 hFederal roads 150, 121, 119, 132; unnumbered state road.
How to Get ThereBy Car:Head south on road 130 from Xicotepec. You’ll pass Huauchinango and in the town of San Pedro turn right on the state road that goes to Honey and Pahuatlán.
By Bus:From Mexico City -Central del Norte Bus Station:Elite
From Tulancingo - Tulancingo Central Bus Station:Estrella Blanca
Tourist InformationMunicipal Tourist Office Portal Zaragoza, no number, Centro.T. (01776) 752 0505.
t
PahuatlánThe Magical Paper Village
For its amate paper
Re
né
Ca
stil
lejo
s /
MD
(2
)
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
s
Why visit?
111 110
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
The imagination runs wild at the amate workshop of the Santos Rojas family.
The streets of Pahuatlán are carved from the Sierra.
Learn the coffee-making process at the Beneficio de Don Conche Téllez.
Highlights: Pahuatlán’s CoffeeCoffee trees abound in the soil of Pahuatlán. To find out how the red
fruits of this prized plant are transformed until they end up in a cup
of steamy goodness, visit the Beneficio de Café de Don Conche Téllez.
A tasting and the chance to buy freshly roasted coffee are part of the
experience. You can also try the flavorful beverage at Café Pahuatlán.
The bohemian joint owned by Juan Hernández is located downtown.
Master HandsThe work produced in the nearby community of San Pablito is famous.
That’s where the Otomí continue producing the same material their
ancestors did since before the arrival of the Spanish: papel amate. While
this handicraft has become an export, its production is still ceremonial.
Shamans use it as an offering in rituals—good or bad spirits
represented on its surface. For example, if you visit the workshop of the Santos Rojas family (Juárez 46), you’ll learn that it’s obtained from
the bark of the ficus tree and watch as the strips are boiled with lime
and ash. After they are hammered into sheets they are put to dry
in the sun. The figures contained in each sheet are only limited by
the imagination of their creator. Now they are made into pictures
and lampshades, and works that combine the art of paper with
the embroidery that the Otomí know so well.
Every day a little world of atoles and tamales sets up shop underneath the arcades of Juárez and Zaragoza. Don’t miss it. You’ll especially want to try the tamales de hollejo (made from corn kernel skins) and tamales de pascal (made with a mixture of peanuts and beans), with some pineapple, blackberry, or peanut atole.
Don’t Miss
Mornings in Pahuatlán smell of pan de leña recién salido del fuego (freshly baked wood fired bread): puros, buches, and camelias. When the rains come they eat chícales (large ants prepared in salsa or fried with chiltepín chili). And cecina ahumada (smoked jerky), tacos de cebolla (onion tacos) with chunks of chicharrón (cracklings) and molotes (made of corn dough with mashed potato). They also make liqueurs and aguardiente from acachul (wild grape), pineapple, passionfruit, coffee, and jobo (a hard, acidic fruit). You’ve got to try the pahuas, the long avocados that are grown locally. Find cuisine rich in Nahua and Otomí traditions at the Mercado Municipal, the Fonda Güina (Miguel Hidalgo), the Fonda Toña, and El Gusto de Pahuatlán (both on 2 de Abril).
mDRecommends
Time to RelaxThe landscape, the smell of rain, soaking in water, the herbs of a witch doctor warding off evil, temazcal baths, everything in the Sierra Mágica seems designed to give the soul peace.
Aguas Termales de Chignahuapan: This hotel and spa has several pools of sulfur water. It’s located in the middle of a ravine, giving the impression of nature wrapping the soul just as the body treatments do the skin.
Temazcal baths: There are several hotels offering the chance to rejuvenate with a steamy temazcal session. In Zacatlán there’s the Xic Xanac, where you can also do yoga. The Hotel Forest in Huauchinango also has a spa. In Cuetzalan there’s Taselotzin, an ecotourism hotel run by Nahua women.
Waterfalls and swimming holes: There are waterfalls throughout the Sierra. Some of them form pools where you can swim. Don’t miss out on the salt-rich spring at the Centro Ecoturístico de la Cascada de Tulimán, in Zacatlán. Spelunking enthusiasts will want to visit the Grutas Acocomoca in Tetela de Ocampo—an underground river of mineral water runs between its walls.
Equine therapy: In Tetela de Ocampo ask for Germán Romero, the owner of Campo Real cabins. He spends part of his time rehabilitating children with the help of horses. The warmth of their bodies, their rhythmical way of moving and the affective relationship that one can develop with them aids in the development of behavioral and motor skills in humans.
Sleep among the mountains: In order to admire the scenery of the Sierra’s cliffs and ravines or if you want to wake up surrounded by trees and silence, better take up a night at a hotel or cabin with a view of this green universe. You can see the Cerro Cabezón from the Hotel Estancia San Jorge in Tlatlauquitepec. Views of the Barranca de los Jilgueros are available through the cabin window at Campestre La Barranca in Zacatlán.
Traditional medicine: The body seen through the eyes of the medicine man, without separating it from nature and its elements in order to keep it healthy, is a part of the indigenous cultures that populate the Sierra. It’s no surprise then to find bonesetters, midwives, and herbalists treating people at the various traditional medicine modules. Check out the one in Tetela de Ocampo, for example. It’s worth learning more about these ancestral practices.
Boat rides: Water is a calming element, and you don’t necessarily have to get in it. It’s always a good idea to see the mythical Laguna de Chignahuapan from on board a boat. And let’s not forget the reservoirs such as the Presa de la Soledad near Tlatlauquitepec, or the Presa Tenango, where Pedro Infante and María Félix shot the film Tizoc.
A limpia: Perhaps one of the most important things to the people of Xicotepec is La Xochipila, an ancient ceremonial center that’s filled with mysticism. On Tuesdays and Thursdays shamans here perform ceremonies and limpias, or cleanses.
Aguas Termales de Chignahuapan.
Cascada de Tulimán.
Cerro Cabezón, Tlatlauquitepec.
Campo Real cabins.
Centro Botánico El Ángel de tu Salud, Xicotepec.
Limpia at La Xochipila, Xicotepec.
Ma
rco
s F
err
o (
6)
Re
né
Ca
stil
lejo
s /
MD
(3
)
113 112
S I E R R A M Á G I C ADiscover Puebla
At nightfall have a beer at the Billar Bar Callejón (José Luis Lechuga Street), while in the Bar Castillos (in the barrio of Palpa at the town’s exit) you can immerse yourself in Huapango music and culture.
Don’t Miss
• The February Carnival surprises Pahuatlán natives dressed in masks of papel amate and who patrol the streets in jubilation in order to shake up daily life.
• Holy Week is full of processions, fireworks, exhibitions, concerts, and traditional dances.
• The town finds regular excuses for playing the Huapangos and Son Huasteco that liven spirits. January 28th, Maundy Thursday, May 5th, June 24th, and September 16 are already marked on the calendar for making a joyful sound.
• The Fiesta del Señor Santiago, the
patron saint, is held on July 25th with festivals and dancing.
• In November, it hosts the Encuentro Nacional de Voladores, and all those masters of dancing in the air descend on the town from Papantla and Cuetzalan in order to pay tribute to this ancient aerial ceremony.
Festivities
In the Woods Not even two miles from downtown you’ll find the Puente Colgante Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla. This hanging bridge was built to connect
Pahuatlán to the Nahua community of Xolotla. The Pahuatitla River passes below from the direction of Honey. When the current’s not too
strong you can swim in its swimming holes. Those who enjoy walking
through the tree-covered paths of the mountains can enjoy the view
from the Cerro del Cirio or Cerro de Atla, which hides the Grutas de Tamborillo in its heights. The community of Ahíla grows flowers,
and the birds beat their wings for attention. You can go paragliding
and there are always groups of cyclists descending its hills. From here
you can see Pahuatlán in the distance.
The people of San Pablito also work with glass beads known
as chaquiras. The tiny material is used to create rings, necklaces,
and barrettes. It’s also used to decorate blouses with incredible color
combinations. Women in the group Tlatzumaque Sohuame Atla
in the community of Atla embroider shawls, dresses, and skirts with
memorable patterns.
Days are spent creating whimsical, colorful objects and garments in the Otomí community of San Pablito.
The Puente Colgante Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla leads to Xolotla.
At the end of January and beginning of February, San Pablito becomes a party with the celebration of the Carnaval de los Huehues.
Nearby...Acapala Near Pahuatlán you can visit the town of Acapala. Its church, dedicated to San Juan, is a brief white affair with a red tile roof, condemned to living apart from its bell tower. But nature is the star of this place. You can go horseback riding down the Acapala River, rappel down the Cerro Delgado, or climb the Cerro de Pericos to watch the birds that live there noisily flap away in all directions.
Honey To the west of Pahuatlán there’s the town named after Richard Honey. The businessman made a fortune exploiting iron mines in Pachuca at the end of the 19th century. With the iron he produced they built the tracks of the railroad that crossed the town carrying material between the states of Hidalgo and Tamaulipas. Honey station was opened in 1908 and little did the people then imagine that the building would one day be a Casa de Cultura. Visiting the Casa de Cultura, the Iglesia de Santa María de Guadalupe, bathing in the nearby swimming holes that change among various shades of blue according to the whim of the minerals they contain, and visiting the waterfalls such as the little Cascada El Salto or the Cascada Velo de Novia are all great ways of passing the time for those who pass through here.
Tlacuilotepec A few miles north of Pahuatlán you can visit this small town where from time to time the rain is inclined to paint a beautiful rainbow over the Templo de Cristo Rey. Built by Augustinian monks in the 17th century, the church fondly amasses the prayers of the faithful. Here the people awake knowing that the coffee produced in their land and the dances that give life to their traditions can’t be traded for anything.
Iglesia de San Juan Bautista, Acapala.
Mountain bike trails, Honey.
San Marcos River.
Cerro Delgado and Cerro de Pericos.
Ro
dri
go
Cru
z /
MD
Ro
dri
go
Cru
z /
MD
Re
né
Ca
stil
lejo
s /
MD
(6
)
Discover Puebla
114
ue laPuebla is known for its Sierra but naturally, it also has its valleys, such as the Valle de Serdán, nestled among volcanoes. The climate is right for flowers around Atlixco, it’s arid in the Mixteca region, and fossils are to be found in Tehuacán.
PCorners of
4
b
CHAPTER
Rod
rigo
Cru
z /
MD
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
117 116
C O R N E R S O F P U E B L ADiscover Puebla
2 Tecamachalco 9.9 mi from Acatzingo, federal road 150.
The Popolocas founded Tecamachalco in 1441, then came the 16th century and Jean-Charlier (Juan) Gerson who graphically illustrated the Apocalypse as the indigenous people never could have imagined. These are the 28 medallion paintings decorating the chorus of the Ex Convento de la Virgen de la Asunción, which was once inhabited by Franciscan monks. The Ex Convento’s spacious courtyard invites you to peacefully walk its cypress-flanked central path. You can also visit
the Iglesia del Beato Sebastián de Aparicio whose courtyard was
the site of two bullfights before 1586, perhaps the first to be held in colonial Mexico.
3 Ciudad Serdán 39.8 mi from Tecamachalco, federal roads 150 and 144.
Also known as Chalchicomula de Sesma, the stars here are its Acueducto and the Parroquia de Nuestro Padre Jesús de las Tres Caídas, an 18th-century building marked by colorful angels and vases. This town had its heyday after the Conquista thanks to its strategic location on the Camino Real, the highway connecting Veracruz to Mexico City and Puebla. In the Capilla del Sagrado Corazón de Jesús oil paintings depict scenes of the Vía Crucis, or Stations of the Cross. Here you’re close to the volcano Citlaltépetl, or Pico de Orizaba, in the neighboring state of Veracruz. Expeditions can be undertaken starting from the town of San José Llano Grande (7.5 miles northeast) where you can do all the things nature calls for: mountain climbing, mountain biking, and hikes that will captivate as much as they wear you out.
4 Tepeyahualco 60.3 mi from Ciudad Serdán, federal roads 140 and 129.
The Cantona archeological site is an ancient Popoloca city that was inhabited from 600 to 1000 A.D. It’s remarkable for its extensive network of road and modes of communication, as well as the 24 Mesoamerican ball courts. It has a total area of 4.6 square miles. Surprisingly, its buildings are made of stacked stones with nothing used as cement. Be sure to walk up to the lookout within the Cantona archeological site. The view from there is worth it.
1 Acatzingo 28 mi from the city of Puebla, federal roads 150 and 140.
Acatzingo is located near the Valle de Tepeaca and boasts an extensive Portal Hidalgo. It includes 47 arches making it the biggest of the state’s colonial cities. Here you’ll find the Parroquia de San Juan Evangelista, dating from the 16th century, where visitors are greeted with colorful oil paintings. It’s the home of the Capilla de la Virgen de los Dolores and its three amazing Baroque altarpieces. In addition to the delight of strolling through its streets and people watching from the quiet downtown pavilion, the town’s got its flavors. Known for its
carnitas de cerdo (braised or roasted pork), Acatzingo can also teach
you a thing or two about candies. Try its palanquetas (brittle) and
jamoncillos (milk caramel) to find out how.
Humid hills stretch throughout the center of the state. Surrounded by volcanoes, they’ve learned to converse with them through the clouds. To the west the landscape is drawn with the image of Iztaccíhuatl and Popocatépetl. In the east the proud Citlaltépetl, or Pico de Orizaba, rises up. The national parks created to protect these volcanoes clamor for the visit of all nature lovers. Among this dance of peaks you’ll find plenty of towns, towns that jealously guard pre-Hispanic traditions and colonial architecture.
Valle Serdán
Cantona was once a great city, if you visit you’ll have wonderful views of the valley.
Ex Convento de Tecamachalco, a Franciscan treasure to get to know in detail.
Mau
rici
o Za
pata
Rod
rigo
Cru
z /
MD
(3)
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
119 118
C O R N E R S O F P U E B L ADiscover Puebla
1 Atlixco 18.6 mi from the city of Puebla, highway 190.
This Magic Town of flowers boasts a warm climate and fertile soil.
Parque Colón, which is blanketed in flowers during Día de Muertos, is
an excellent vantage point for observing life in Atlixco. The pavilion
is surrounded by candy stands and trees offering up shade. Satisfy
the palate with traditional dishes such as consomé atlixqueño
(with avocado, cheese, and chicharrón—or pork crackling), tlacoyos,
and cecina salada. You’ll want to visit the nurseries and both the
Parroquia de la Natividad, with its beautiful mortar decorations,
and the 16th-century Ex Convento de Santa María de Jesús, built by
Franciscan monks. This is where you’ll find the Capilla de la Tercera Orden. If you’re impressed it’s probably due to its Baroque facade full of angels, saints, and sirens and plenty of floral motifs and twisted
columns. Don’t miss the chance to visit Atlixco during the last
weekend of September in order to attend Huey Atlixcáyotl on the
Cerro de San Miguel. The celebration honors the gods Quetzalcóatl
and Xochipilli with music and dancing—the most honest forms of
human expression.
2 Tochimilco 9.9 mi from Atlixco, state road.
Here, a 16th-century building steals your attention: the Ex Convento Franciscano de la Asunción de Nuestra Señora, erected by Fray Diego
de Olarte in 1560. It looks like a fort with its battlements lining the top
of the wall. The facade is sober and the Gothic ribs of its vault reminds
Southeast of Puebla there are towns that have learned to live in the shadow of the volcanoes Iztaccíhuatl and Popocatépetl. Their snowy peaks unleash rivers that supply water to the region. Thus the soil is fertile and tastes of flowers and cereals. Gratitude is shown for such abundance with Huey Atlixcáyotl, an annual festival that brings together the state’s different peoples in the tiny town of Atlixco.
Valle de Atlixco
The Day of the Dead in Huaquechula, a celebration that has earned it fame throughout the state.
The Capilla de la Tercera Orden, in Atlixco, with its detailed Baroque style facade.
Stop to purchase some árboles de la vida in Izúcar de Matamoros.
of the Middle Ages while the main entryway transports onlookers to
the Renaissance. The structure is one of the monasteries named a
UNESCO World Heritage Site. Smack in the middle of town you’ll find the Fuente de los Sabores, a fascinating sculpture with an octagonal base whose Mudejar styling delights the eyes. People also worship at the Iglesia del Señor while leisure is enjoyed with picnics, called campurra here.
3 Huaquechula 11.2 mi from Tochimilco, highway 438 and state road.
Huaquechula has garnered fame due to the altars that families put up for their dead on November 2nd. But devotion finds tangible forms here in the Ex Convento de San Martín de Tours. It was built by the Franciscans in the 16th century before any other building of Spanish influence existed in the town. Today you can see it exactly how it was,
as time has not touched these divine haunts. You’ll be surprised by its
elegant facades with Plateresque reliefs. From the delicate handiwork
emerge angels playing the trumpet and the curious figures of San Pedro and San Pablo with medieval features. The complex surrounding the church is comprised of an enormous battlement-lined wall, the cross of the courtyard, an open chapel with its ceiling of ogival arches, a capilla posa, or corner chapel, and the guardhouse. Leave this world that God inhabits and walk through the zócalo, or main square, and you’ll see vestiges of the town’s development: a fragmented head of Quetzalcóatl, a stone cross, a black stone fountain, and a gravestone with the date written in pre-Hispanic numbering.
4 Izúcar de Matamoros 16.2 mi from Huaquechula, federal road 190 and state road.
Known for its sulfur spring resorts, Izúcar de Matamoros is also famous for the skill of its artisans who fashion árboles de la vida from multi-hued clay. As far as architecture is concerned, its biggest treasure is the 16th-century Ex Convento de Santo Domingo de Guzmán. Originally an initiative of Franciscan monks, it later fell into the hands of the Dominicans. The enormity of its sole nave inspires awe. Outside, battlements top off the structure as if it
were a castle. The sober facade displays a stone-framed arch
and choral window. Above, the seal of the Dominican Order
challenges the passing centuries.
Ern
est
o P
olo
/ M
D
Ern
est
o P
olo
/ M
D
Ma
uri
cio
Za
pa
ta
Ro
dri
go
Cru
z /
MD
(2
)
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
121 120
C O R N E R S O F P U E B L ADiscover Puebla
1 Tehuacán A 127 km de la ciudad de Puebla, autopista 150.
Downtown boasts Parque Juárez. The 18th-century Catedral de la Inmaculada Concepción is nearby with its Talavera cupolas in perpetual dialogue with the heavens. There’s also the Ex Convento del Carmen, erected in the 17th century. It’s of Baroque and Neo-classical inspiration. Today it houses the Museo de Mineralogía and the Museo del Valle de Tehuacán.
This is the home of the Festival del Mole de Caderas, a culinary tradition taking place in October at the time of the Matanza de Chivos, or slaughtering of the goats. This municipality borders Oaxaca to the south, with whom it shares the Reserva de la Biosfera Tehuacán-Cuicatlán, a protected natural area where endemic species and arid ecosystems abound. This is also the site of the Cuevas de Coxcatlán where they found signs that humans had domesticated corn over eight thousand years ago. Heading toward Huajuapan de León (9.3 miles ahead) you’ll reach the workshops of the town of San Antonio Texcala, where the people work onyx and marble.
2 Zapotitlán Salinas 15.5 mi from Tehuacán, federal road 125.
Visit the salt mine on the way into this town surrounded by giant cactuses; 105 million years ago the Gulf of Mexico extended this far inland leaving the soil rich in salts. One attraction is the Jardín
The territory of the Mixtecs “the Rain People” is divided between Guerrero, Oaxaca, and the southeast of Puebla, which gets part of the Mixteca Baja. Here the landscape, normally dry (it’s mostly made up of deciduous forest vegetation) turns green with the arrival of the summer rains. Fossils and mineral springs are found in the Valle de Tehuacán.
Valle de Tehuacánand La Mixteca
In the Mixteca region, objects made from palm are highly esteemed.
Reserva de la Biosfera Tehuacán-Cuicatlán, home of native species
Botánico Helia Bravo Hollis with more than 2,700 plant species. Inside the botanical garden you can educate yourself at the Centro de Interpretación Ambiental, see the ruins of an ancient city called Cutha and visit a waterfall.
3 San Juan Raya 30.4 mi from Zapotitlán Salinas, federal road 125 and state road.
The small town of San Juan Raya amasses fossils and dinosaur footprints at its Museo Paleontológico Comunitario. Members of the community also organize various bike and horseback tours to the Cerro del Pavimento, which serves as a sort of scenic viewpoint. Another option is visiting the Parque Ecoturístico Turritelas where a marine fossil is the star of the trails. And finally, don’t miss the Santuario de Cactáceas Gigantes.
4 Molcaxac 44.7 mi from San Juan Raya, state road 455.
Be sure to check out the painting by Miguel Jerónimo Zendejas in the Parroquia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción. In the west of Molcaxac, the Atoyac River is responsible for some beautiful natural landscapes such as the Cascada Cola de Caballo waterfall, the Caverna Puente de Dios and the Sierra del Tentzo, recently declared a protected natural area.
5 Tepexi de Rodríguez38.5 mi from Molcaxac, state road 455.
Tepexi gained cultural relevance in 1982 when terrestrial and marine fossils dating back 115 million years were found here. The collection of these paleontological discoveries is held at the Museo Regional Mixteco Tlayúa, at the town’s entrance. Witness the beauty of times gone by at the Tepexi El Viejo archeological site, an ancient Popoloca settlement. Remains tell us that the Valle del Mamut was once inhabited by mammoths, mastodons, and armadillos. Tombs have been discovered on the banks of the Axamilpa River along with the remains of ancient flowers and seeds. And you’ve got to see the human and
animal forms in the cave paintings at the cliffs of La Mano de la Bruja.
Ro
dri
go
Cru
z /
MD
(2
)
Sa
lati
el
Ba
rra
gá
n /
MD
Ma
uri
cio
Za
pa
ta
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
123 122
C O R N E R S O F P U E B L ADiscover Puebla
Cerro de San Miguel, Atlixco.
Ast
rid
Ro
drí
gu
ez
117 116
S E R V I C E S D I R E C T O R Y Puebla / aeth dgjmsghn er icesDirectoryS v SIERRA MÁGICA
IXTACAMAXTITLÁNWhere to StayHotel del RazoPrivada de Reforma 2, Centro.T. 01 (797) 975 2344.Where to EatCocina La TejaNarciso Mendoza 1, Centro.
TETELA DE OCAMPOWhere to StayCabañas AconcoKm 16 on the Camino Puente Seco–Omitlán,Xaltatempa de Lucas.T. 01 (797) 488 1829.www.cascadasaconco.comCabañas Don MemoRoad to la Cañada, no number (Camino a la Paz),La Soledad, La Cañada.C. 045 (797) 106 7094.Cabañas Campo Real2 Norte at the corner of 9 Poniente, Centro.T. 01 (797) 973 0024.Where to EatEl Centenario2 Norte 4, Centro.T. 01 (797) 973 0898.Restaurante & Bar La MinaPlaza de la Constitución 5,at the corner of 16 de Septiembre, Centro.C. 045 (797) 114 6218.
AQUIXTLAWhere to EatDoña AdeZaragoza, no number (or José Ma. Bonilla, no number), Centro.T. 01 (797) 971 8013.LulúChignahuapan–Aquixtla road, no number, Centro.T. 01 (797) 971 8055.Mi Padre Jesús16 de Septiembre 1, Centro.T. 01 (797) 596 9421.ShoppingArtesanos AlfarerosSan Esteban, no number, Coautieco.T. 01 (797) 971 8172.Esferera Los BrionesKnown address(San Alfonso bypass), La Loma.T. 01 (797) 976 6762.Alfarería El ArcoChignahuapan–Aquixtla road, no number,El Terrero.C. 045 (797) 488 0017.Taller AlfareroKnown address, El Terrero.T. 01 (797) 488 0005.Alfarería Doña LupitaKnown address, Coautieco.T. 01 (797) 596 5997.
ZACATLÁNWhere to StayCabañas El Mirador (restaurant)Km 1 on the Zacatlán–Chignahuapan road, Centro.T. 01 (797) 975 1025.www.miradorzacatlan.comCabañas El MuñecoIndependencia 38, Tlatempa.T. 01 (797) 973 3111.www.cabanaselmuneco.comCabañas El RefugioKnown address, Atexca.T. 01 (797) 596 6005. C. 045 (797) 976 1877.www.elrefugiozacatlan.comCabañas La CascadaRoad to Cascada de San Pedro, no number.T. 01 (797) 975 0054 / 976 9988.Cabañas Los Jilgueros (restaurant)Tepetzintla 8, Los Jilgueros.T. 01 (797) 973 3015.www.losjilgueros.netCabañas Sierra VerdeIxtlilapa 1, Tlatempa.T. 01 (797) 973 3092.www.cabanassierraverde.mxCampestre La Barranca (restaurant)Km 66 on the Apizaco–Zacatlán federal road, Tomatlán.T. 01 (797) 975 2233.www.campestrelabarranca.com.mxCentro Ecoturístico TulimánKnown address, Ejido de Tulimán.C. 045 (797) 111 3603.www.cascadastuliman.comHacienda AmoltepecKm 3.5 on the Chignahuapan–Zacatlán road, La Estrella.T. 01 (797) 598 0205 / (222) 368 0950.www.haciendaamoltepec.com
Hacienda CasagrandeLeandro Valle 26, Centro.T. 01 (797) 975 4301.www.haciendacasagrande.mxHotel Ecológico Xic Xanac(camping, temazcal, restaurant)Prol. José Ma. Iglesias, no number, Eloxochitlán.T. 01 (797) 975 5997. C. 045 (797) 101 5957.www.xicxanac.comHotel Il SognoKm 2 on the Zacatlán–Chignahuapan road, San Pedro.T. 01 (797) 975 2144 / 975 0177.www.vivezacatlan.com.mx/Ilsogno.phpHotel Posada Don RamónLeandro Valle 23, Centro.T. 01 (797) 975 0405.www.posadadonramon.comHotel Villa de las FloresLibramiento 6, San Bartolo.T. 01 (797) 975 0881.www.hotelvilladelasflores.com.mxRancho El MayabKnown address, Tomatlán.T. 01 (797) 975 2227. C. 045 (797) 100 6514.www.cabanasenzacatlan.com.mxTonantzín Spa–HostalKm 3.5 on the Zacatlán–Jicolapa road(Rancho Coyotepec).T. 01 (797) 975 4099.www.tonantzinspa.com.mxWhere to EatCafé del Zaguán5 de Mayo 2, Centro.T. 01 (797) 975 0845 / 975 3763.www.vivezacatlan.com.mx/elzaguan.phpPozolería Los ManzanosDimas López 2, Centro.T. 01 (797) 102 1588 / 102 1584.Restaurant ChikisJosé Dolores Pérez 30, Centro.C. 045 (797) 106 4486.Restaurante Cielo RojoBravo 7, Centro.T. 01 (797) 975 4890. C. 045 (797) 106 7281.Restaurante Las DeliciasLibramiento 6, San Bartolo.C. 045 (797) 100 2723.Restaurante Ppp (handicrafts)Acera Morelos 4, Centro.T. 01 (797) 975 1143.ShoppingArtesanías Cortés5 de Mayo 4, Centro.T. 01 (797) 975 0027. C. 045 (797) 105 9739.Sihuame Ma Xochitl TlaxonamiKnown address.C. 045 (797) 100 1788 / 045 (797) 103 5274.Vinos y licores La PrimaveraLuis Cabrera 11, Centro.T. 01 (797) 975 0054. C. 045 (797) 976 9988.Vinos y artesanías El RelojMorelos 5, Centro.T. 01 (797) 105 7470.
AHUACATLÁNWhere to StayPosada AmparitoCoronel Ignacio Sosa 2(at the corner of José Ma. Morelos), Centro.T. 01 (764) 763 3088.
ZAPOTITLÁN DE MÉNDEZWhere to StayVilla Eréndira5 de Mayo poniente 1, Centro.T. 01 (233) 314 2632.Where to EatEl Mesón Café5 de Mayo, no number, Centro.T. 01 (233) 214 3848.Restaurante Flor5 de Mayo poniente 6, Centro.T. 01 (233) 109 7297.
CHIGNAHUAPANWhere to Stay9 Manantiales (restaurant)Andador de la Laguna, no number, Teoconchila.T. 01 (797) 971 2159.www.hotel9manantiales.com.mxAguas Termales de Chignahuapan (rest.)Known address, Barrio de Tenextla.T. 01 (797) 971 0982.www.termaleschignahuapan.com.mxAl Final de la Senda (restaurant)Km 38 on the Apizaco–Chignahuapan federal road, Ciénega Larga.T. 01 (797) 971 0102. C. 045 (797) 100 3443.www.alfinaldelasenda.comCabañas CapulinaRoad to Aguas Termales, Tenextla.T. 01 (797) 971 1986.www.cabanascapulina.com.mx
Centro Turístico El Llano del ConejoKm 38.5 on the Apizaco–Chignahuapan federal road, San Antonio Matlahuacales.T. 01 (797) 111 6257.www.llanodelconejo.com.mxCentro Holístico Kuatlicue (temazcal, spa)Road to Baños Termales, no number, Ixtlahuaca.T. 01 (797) 110 8135 / 971 1023.Cristal (travel agency)Hidalgo 8–A, Centro.T. 01 (797) 971 0054.www.hotelcristalchignahuapan.com.mxMárquez6a de Lerdo 42–A, Centro.T. 01 (797) 971 0659.www.hotelmarquezchignahuapan.comMi Ranchito (restaurant)Km 55 on Díaz Ordaz Blvd., Teotlalpan.T. 01 (797) 971 0219.Salto de QuetzalapanKnown address, Ejido el Potrero.C. 045 (797) 107 7030.www.quetzalapan.comSymerRomero Vargas 7, Centro.T. 01 (797) 971 0155.www.chignahuapan.com/hotelsymerWhere to EatAntojitos mexicanos Doña ChuyAndador de la Laguna, no number, Teoconchila.C. 045 (797) 971 2556.El AlambiqueHidalgo 10, Centro.T. 01 (797) 971 0113.El CafetalJuan N. Méndez 2, Centro.T. 01 (797) 971 0245.Restaurante Bar Emiliano’sHidalgo 8–A, Centro.T. 01 (797) 971 0054 / 971 0390.www.hotelcristalchignahuapan.com.mxRestaurant El VenenoGuillermo Prieto 4–A, Centro.C. 045 (797) 103 2860.Restaurante Estación 432a. Prol. Guerrero, no number, Centro.T. 01 (797) 971 2947.Restaurante La ConfluenciaAv. Juárez 21, Centro.C. 045 (797) 105 3186.Restaurante La PuertaJuan N. Méndez 6, Centro.T. 01 (797) 971 2108.Restaurante Plaza del Buen ComerDíaz Ordaz Blvd. 10, Centro.T. 01 (797) 971 2820.Restaurante Santa MónicaProl. Guillermo Prieto, no number, Teoconchila.T. 01 (797) 109 0759.ShoppingAnvisa El castillo de la esferaGustavo Díaz Ordaz Blvd., Teotlalpan.T. 01 (797) 971 1295.www.esferasanvisa.comArtesanías Navideñas JessrayPlutarco Elías Calles, no number, Toltempan.T. 01 (797) 971 0331.Cooperativa San MiguelReforma, no number, Centro.C. 045 (551) 686 9743.Decoraciones Navideñas CondeSánchez Romano, no number, Centro.T. 01 (797) 971 0117. C. 045 (797) 107 7783.Dulces típicos La EsmeraldaRomero Vargas 19, Centro.T. 01 (797) 971 0961. C. 045 (797) 106 8491.www.dulcestipicoslaesmeralda.comEsferas Boutique NavideñaDíaz Ordaz Blvd. 15, Centro.T. 01 (797) 971 1384. C. 045 (797) 977 9134.Esferas CampanitaGustavo Díaz Ordaz Blvd. 13, Centro.T. 01 (797) 971 0298 / 976 0118.www.esferascampanita.com.mxEsferas del Ángel2 Sur, no number, Centro.T. 01 (797) 112 4310.Esferas Doña VickyRicardo Flores Magón, no number, Teotlalpan.T. 01 (797) 101 0820.
HUAUCHINANGOWhere to StayCabaña Buenavista AdventoursKm 12 on the Huauchinango–Naupan road, Totolapa.C. 045 (776) 101 6155 / 045 (984) 143 7471.CHTAP (Centro Holístico)Principal 118 (2nd floor), La Mesita.T. 01 (776) 107 9945. C. 045 (776) 107 9945.Hotel Villa de CortezRestaurante AranjuezMina 3–C, Centro.T. 01 (776) 762 6230.
La Casona (restaurant)Hidalgo 5, Centro.T. 01 (776) 762 1808.Mi Lindo Huauchinango (restaurant)Leona Vicario 10, Centro.T. 01 (776) 762 0540.Centro Agroturístico Michu (restaurant)Hidalgo, no number (at the corner of Camino Real), Michiuca.T. 01 (776) 108 9880 / 107 0874.Hotel HRC RexRevolución 21, San Juan.C. 045 (776) 767 7218.Where to EatCafé RougeDe los Técnicos Ave. 32, Rancho Viejo.T. 01 (776) 762 8799.C. 045 (776) 104 3223 / 104 0043.Campestre Las TruchasKm 149 on the México–Tuxpam road.T. 01 (776) 103 2240.Restaurante Casa RealCuauhtémoc 7 (at the corner of Corregidora), Centro.T. 01 (776) 762 1938.www.hotelcasareal.com.mxRestaurante La Niña LindaConstitución 6, Centro, Tenango de las Flores.T. 01 (764) 763 0099. C. 045 (771) 202 1205.Mariscos El TizocKnown address, Tenango de las Flores.T. 01 (764) 763 1294.Restaurante Big MommaNiños Héroes 46, El Cerrito.T. 01 (776) 762 7040.Restaurante Karlos’sLeona Vicario 19, Centro.T. 01 (776) 762 1580.ShoppingTextiles Manos MágicasPavilion, Centro.T. 01 (776) 105 9493.Arte en resinaFracc. Santa Catarina 29.T. 01 (776) 104 7608.
AHUAZOTEPECWhere to StaySan Antonio Buenavista (restaurant)T. 01 (776) 596 4899 / 113 2205.Where to EatRestaurante El PortónMagisterio Nacional Sur, Centro.T. 01 (776) 761 0615. C. 045 (776) 106 1936.
NAUPANWhere to EatFonda Doña JosePlaza de la Constitución 6, Centro.C. 045 (776) 596 1113. Cocina EconómicaVilla Juárez, no number, Centro.C. 045 (776) 100 3069.
XICOTEPECWhere to StayHotel Mi Ranchito (restaurant)Zaragoza 267 B, Centro.T. 01 (764) 764 0212.www.hotelmiranchito.com.mxHotel Plaza San CarlosRestaurante La Terraza, Hidalgo 100, Centro.T. 01 (764) 764 1291.www.hotelplazasancarlos.com.mxHotel Villa de Cortez Restaurante AranjuezMiguel Negrete 105, Centro.T. 01 (764) 764 1300.www.hotelesvilladecortez.comWhere to EatCafé Para GourmetVicente Guerrero 175, Centro.T. 01 (764) 100 9798.Cafetería GonriPlaza de la Constitución 116, Centro.T. 01 (764) 764 0597.La Choza 1986Reforma 100, Centro.T. 01 (764) 764 1240.La Molienda (handicrafts)Km 113 on the México–Tuxpam road.T. 01 (764) 102 7281.Restaurante Camino Real5 de Mayo 137, Centro.T. 01 (764) 764 3102.Restaurante La Curva5 de Mayo 162, Centro.T. 01 (764) 764 0643.
PAHUATLÁNWhere to StayHotel San Carlos (restaurant)2 de Abril 28, Centro.T. 01 (776) 752 0570.www.hotelsancarlospahuatlan.com
Where to EatCafé Pahuatlán5 de Mayo 16, Centro.T. 01 (776) 762 4275. C. 045 (776) 107 3420.Fonda GüinaHidalgo 5, Centro.T. 01 (776) 752 0636. C. 045 (775) 121 8690.ShoppingOrganización de ArtesaníasReforma, no number, Centro.C. 045 (776) 101 4454.Papel Amate OtomíKnown address, Centro, San Pablito.T. 01 (776) 763 4066.Taller de Artesanías Santos RojasJuárez 46, Centro.T. 01 (776) 763 4019.
HONEYWhere to StayHotel Posada de la Montaña(spa and restaurant)La Cumbre del Manzano, no number.T. 01 (776) 745 3151.www.actiweb.es/posadamontana
TLACUILOTEPECWhere to StayHotel FrancoKnown address.T. 01 (764) 110 1752.Where to EatGranja Acuícola La SilletaKnown address.T. 01 (776) 596 1297.
MAGICAL TOWNS
CHOLULAWhere to StayCorintios5 Norte 801, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0495 / 9440.Hostal del ZócaloMiguel Alemán 101, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 7071.Hostal Cholula2 Poniente 918, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 261 5942.Hotel AmbassadorKm 122 on the Mex–Puebla road, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 1011 / 247 1012.Hotel Estrella de Belem2 Oriente 410, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 261 1925.Hotel Las Iglesias7 Sur 501, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 409 7500 / 401 0203.Hotel Los Remedios2 Sur 303, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 261 1050.www.hotelosremedios.mx.tlHotel María Sofía3 Sur 1501, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 1146 / 1013.Hotel MarmoyMorelos 214 A, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 1879.www.hotelmarmoy.comHotel Noche Buena7 Oriente 7, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0495 / 9440.Hotel Spa Casa CalliPortal Guerrero 11, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 261 5607.La Huerta Golf & HotelPrivada Juan Blanca 2501–A,Santa María Xixitla, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 3392 / 9611.La Quinta Luna3 Sur 702, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 8915 / 8916.Plaza Santa RosaPortal Guerrero 5, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0341.Real de Naturales6 Oriente 7, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 6070 / 2656.Reforma4 Sur 101, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0149.Suite San Juan5 Sur 103, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 178 0398.Villas3 Poniente 703, Priv. Hidalgo 2,San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 9354 / 261 3436.Hotel Las Américas2 Oriente 6, San Juan,San Andrés Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0991.
Posada Señorial5 de Mayo 1400, San Andrés Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0049.Villas Arqueológicas2 Poniente 601, San Andrés Cholula.T. 01 (222) 273 7900.www.villasarqueologicas.com.mxVilla Florida Hotel & SuitesAtlixcayotl Blvd., Plaza Mazaryk,San Andrés Cholula.T. 01 (222) 273 2222.www.villaflorida.com.mxVillas TonantzintlaHidalgo Ave. 2,Santa María Tonantzinla, San Andrés Cholula.T. 01 (222) 261 3436.Where to Eat100% NaturalPortal Guerrero 11,San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 403 0900.Café Mi Abuelo2 Oriente 415, San Pedro Cholula.Casa del Mojito6 Oriente 205, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0667.Cemitas ConchitaOriente at the corner of 4 Norte, San Pedro Cholula.Churros las DuyasPortal Guerrero 15, San Pedro Cholula.CocoyotlaHidalgo 301, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0151.ColonialMorelos Ave. 605, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 2508.El CafetalPortal Guerrero 7, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 404 9947.El Choluteca4 Oriente at the corner of 2 Norte, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 2503.El PortónHidalgo Ave. 302, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0273 / 403 4094.El SapareForjadores 304, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 285 0087.Fuente de Sodas Citlalli3 Oriente 415, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 7134.Italian CoffeePortal Guerrero, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 261 7304.La Casona3 Oriente 9, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 2776.La EnamoradaPortal Guerrero 1, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0292.Lonchería María ElenaMorelos 120, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0584.Los GüerosHidalgo 102, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 2188. Los JarronesPortal Guerrero 7, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 1098.La LunitaMorelos at the corner of 6 Pte., San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0011.La Otra Lunita2 Oriente 605, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 4964.Los TulipanesPortal Guerrero 13, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 1707.Marisquería ManoloInside Cosme del Razo Market,San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 1588.Memo’s Pizza4 Poniente 104, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 8593.Piu Pizza5 Poniente 110, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 1885.Restaurante–tienda La PirámideMorelos 416, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0254.Tacos RobertHidalgo 104, San Pedro Cholula.Tacos TonyMorelos 212, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 9196.Taquería la OrientalRecta a Cholula 311, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 261 0880 / 2120.Tiemonte4 Norte 6, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0786.
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
119 118
S E R V I C E S D I R E C T O R Y Puebla / aeth dgjmsghn
Xochitl Calli4 Norte 602, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0650.La Casita AmarrillaProl. 8 Norte 1802, El Campanario,San Andrés Cholula.T. 01 (222) 261 1427.Toro Pinto14 Oriente 401, San Juan Aquiahuac,San Andrés Cholula.T. 01 (222) 261 4784.Comedor Los GuisadosLateral de la Recta Cholula, Prol. 8 Norte,local A y B, Ex Hacienda Teresa,San Andrés Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 7013.Los Alebrijes8 Norte 1006, Barrio San Juan Aquiahuac,San Andrés Cholula.T. 01 (222) 261 6673.ShoppingArtesanías de MéxicoMorelos 413, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 285 3252.Artesanos del ZócaloPasillo del Artesano, San Pedro Cholula.Artesanías El LagartoMorelos 207, San Pedro Cholula.Artesanías El Quetzal3 Poniente at the corner of 2 Sur, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 7524.Artesanías MexicanasMorelos 605, San Pedro Cholula.Artesanías OllínMorelos 405–A, San Pedro Cholula.Arte Popular MexicanoMorelos 410, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 5139.Artesanías YarettMorelos 415–A, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 130 2868.Casa de la Talavera7 Poniente 510, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 1765.Cocina Eco y ArtesanalMorelos 409–B, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 1227.Dulces Típicos Los ÁngelesMorelos 408, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 3170.Dulces Típicos MéxicoMorelos 410, San Pedro Cholula.Dulces Típicos MontseMorelos 214–1, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 3170 / 178 0200.El ChiquigüiteMorelos 401–B, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 2697.Ezotería Miguel ÁngelMorelos 207, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 2787.Hola JulioMorelos 401, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 3170.José Manuel ValenciaMorelos 413–2, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 5139.Joyería en plata SMPasillo del Artesano, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 4211.KabanMorelos 407–A, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 1420.La Antigua MéxicoMorelos 216, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 2632 / 7763.Lamat ArtesaníaMorelos 209–3, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 2065.La PirámideMorelos 414, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0254.ManikMorelos 407–B, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 1420.México en CachosMorelos 403, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0381.Nahui GaleríaMorelos 201–R, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 285 5148.RhimoMorelos 209–2, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0862.Ropa Típica MexicanaMorelos 408, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 1716 / 3842.Tezkatlipaka22 Oriente 813, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 234 6175.Un Tigre AzulMorelos 405–B, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 5296.Vitrales CastilloMorelos 407, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 0128.
Voladores de PapantlaManuel Maples 301,San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 334 4742.
TLATLAUQUITEPECWhere to StayAtemimilacoKnown address, Ejido Xonocuautla.1.5 km from Zaragoza via beltway.T. 01 (233) 317 8297.Complejo Ecoturístico Bosque de NieblaKm 4.5 on the Tlatlauquitepec–Mazatepec road, Xomiaco.T. 01 (231) 596 0525.Hotel DiamanteHéroes del 47 no. 801, Ocotlán.T. 01 (233) 317 8374.Hotel Estancia San JorgePriv. Jorge Guzmán Guerrero 3.T. 01 (233) 318 0533.www.hotelestanciasanjorge.comHotel Los ArcosMéxico Sur 145, Mazatepec.T. 01 (233) 311 0010.Hotel PlazaReforma 56, Centro.T. 01 (233) 318 0378.www.elhotelplaza.comHotel Santa FePortal Morelos 5, Centro.T. 01 (233) 318 0267.www.hotelsantafe-tlatlauquitepec.comHotel SerranoIng. Carlos Ramírez Ulloa 2.T. 01 (233) 318 0044.Hotel Tía LochaVicente Suárez 17, Mazatepec.T. 01 (233) 311 0056.Where to EatCafé ColonialEduardo Guerra 17.T. 01 (233) 318 0155.Café La TerrazaReforma 44, Centro.C. 045 (233) 103 5836.Comedor el Pez Criadero de CoatectzinReforma 74, Centro.C. 045 (233) 101 6764.Criadero de truchas La UniónKm 9,700 on the road to Mazatepec.T. 01 (233) 112 9670 / 106 6480 / 103 0811.El BarcitoPortal Morelos 5.T. 01 (233) 318 0267 / 0034.El ChangarroRevolución 51, Centro.T. 01 (233) 318 0561.El ColonialEduardo Guerra 17, Centro.T. 01 (233) 318 0155.El TarroGuillermo Prieto, no number.El TenampaReforma 60.T. 01 (233) 759 9145.El VenadoMéxico 7, Mazatepec.T. 01 (233) 111 3504.El ZarzoIng. Carlos Ramírez Ulloa 2, Centro.T. 01 (233) 318 0263.Hugo’sRevolución 49.Jugos Naturales BoniReforma 158, Centro.T. 01 (233) 318 0497.La Mesa del CapitánIndependencia 24, El Mirador.Mi PuebloDel Castillo Ave. 10.T. 01 (233) 318 0028.NandosHéroes de Independencia 19,El Mirador.T. 01 (233) 318 0853.Ostionería Playa HermosaIndependencia 1.T. 01 (233) 318 0336.Pollos CuetzalanEl sazón de la sierraHéroes de Independencia 95, Mirador.T. 01 (233) 318 1760.ReformaReforma 131, Centro.T. 01 (233) 318 0067.Rey de la SelvaMazatepec road bypass, entrance, no number.T. 01 (233) 318 1105.SevenAmbrosio López del Castillo 10.T. 01 (233) 318 0028.ShoppingArtesanos de Tallado de MaderaOyameles Community.T. 01 (233) 759 2976.
Doña JuliaTatauzoquico.Dulces típicos dela Región MoraIng. Carlos Ramírez Ulloa 13, Centro.T. 01 (233) 318 0651. C. 045 (233) 104 7885.Dulces típicos IvánIng. Carlos Ramírez Ulloa 8, Centro.C. 045 (233) 108 1706.INAPAC (huipil and auipil)Revolución 21.T. 01 (233) 105 9366 / 318 1287.Salón y fábrica de vinosEl JonucoRevolución 51.T. 01 (233) 318 1610.Vinos El Siglo XXRevolución 52.
CUETZALANWhere to StayCabañas MetzintliKm 2 on the Cuetzalan–Rayón road.C. 045 (222) 193 8653.www.cuetzalanmetzintli.comCabañas Reserva AzulMain road, no number, El Cuichat.T. 01 (233) 110 1878.www.reservaazul.comCabañas TenextepecKm 2 on the Equimita–Jonotla road, Xocoyolo.C. 045 (231) 322 5649.www.tenextepec-tenextepec.es.tlCabañas Tosepan KaliKm 1.5 on the Cuetzalan–San Miguel road.T. 01 (233) 331 0925.www.tosepankali.comCasa de HuéspedesSan José PinolacoT. 01 (233) 331 0343.Hotel Casa de PiedraCarlos García 11, Centro.T. 01 (233) 331 0030.www.lacasadepiedra.comHotel DanielaGuadalupe Victoria at the corner of 2 de Abril.T. 01 (233) 331 0463.Hotel Daniela 2Pachuco.T. 01 (233) 331 0463.Hotel El EncuentroHidalgo.T. 01 (233) 331 0027.www.grupoelencuentro.com.mxHotel ElizabethCuauhtémoc 35.T. 01 (233) 331 0972.Hotel Gran HotelCarlos García 1, Centro.T. 01 (233) 331 0019.www.granhotelcuetzalan.comHotel Jackeline2 de Abril 2.T. 01 (233) 331 0354 / 0135.Hotel Malin KualtzinHidalgo 43.T. 01 (233) 331 0450.Hotel MixtiPriv. Mixcoac, no number, Tazecualpan.T. 01 (233) 331 0586.www.cuetzalanconsentido.comHotel TaselotzinYoloxochitl, no number, Barrio ZacatipánCuetzalan Cuapech.T. 01 (233) 331 0480.www.taselotzin.mex.tl.hoteltaselotzin.com.mxHotel VickyGuadalupe Victoria 6, Centro.T. 01 (233) 331 0272 / 1370.Hotel Vicky 2López Rayón, no number, Centro.T. 01 (233) 331 0370.Hotel ZayagoCarlos García 14.T. 01 (233) 331 1092.www.hotelzayago.comMesón YohualichanZaragoza 35.T. 01 (233) 331 0020.www.mesonyohualichan.comParador JLCarlos García 53, Centro.T. 01 (233) 331 0552.www.paradorJL.comPosada 18002 de Abril at the corner of Vicente Guerrero.T. 01 (233) 331 1047.www.posada1800.comPosada AstrudKm 1.5 on the Cuetzalan–Zacapoaxtla road.T. 01 (233) 331 0194.www.posadaastrud.com.mxPosada CuetzalanZaragoza 12.T. 01 (233) 331 0154.www.posadacuetzalan.com
Posada La EscondidaGuerrero 31.T. 01 (233) 331 0085.www.posadacuetzalan.comPosada la PlazuelaHidalgo 3 at the corner of Zaragoza.T. 01 (222) 455 9663.Posada LupitaRayón 4.T. 01 (233) 331 0361.Posada MolinaMiguel Alvarado 68.T. 01 (233) 331 1099.Posada RivelloGuadalupe Victoria 3.T. 01 (233) 331 0083.Quinta Palermo2 de Abril 2.T. 01 (233) 331 0452.www.mexicoquerido.com.mxTalkampaProl. Aldama 137 at the corner of Miguel Alvarado,Barrio Cuapech.T. 01 (233) 331 1282.Villas Cuetzalan5 km before reaching Cuetzalan.T. 01 (800) 224 6835.www.villascuetzalan.comVillas ZardoniKm 8 on the Cuetzalan–Zacapoaxtla road.T. 01 (55) 5525 3319.Where to EatCafé la Época de OroM. Alvarado 2 at the corner of Priv. Allende.T. 01 (233) 331 0596.www.cafelaepocadeoro.com.mxComedor MagoPinolaco 52.T. 01 (233) 331 1210.Disco ToCa TocaMorelos 6, Centro.T. 01 (233) 331 0316.www.cuetzalantocatoca.mex.tlEl ChamakiCarmen Serdán, no number.T. 01 (233) 331 0316.www.grupoelencuentro.com.mxEl FogónMiguel Alvarado 57.T. 01 (233) 331 0151.El Portal2 de Abril 1.T. 01 (233) 103 0221.ElviraMiguel Hidalgo 66.T. 01 (233) 331 0151.La FragataAbasolo 20, Centro.T. 01 (233) 331 0165.www.cafelaepocadeoro.com.mxLas RanasMiguel Alvarado, no number,inside Plaza Artesanal.T. 01 (233) 331 0416.Lonchería La TerminalGuerrero 309.T. 01 (233) 104 5974.Los CafetalesHidalgo 2.T. 01 (233) 331 0037.Malin KualtzinHidalgo 43.T. 01 (233) 331 0450.Mesón Don ChonHidalgo 3.T. 01 (233) 331 0316.www.cuetzalantocatoca.mex.tlMetzintliKm 2 on the Cuetzalan–Yohualichan road.T. 01 (233) 331 0925.www.cuetzalanecologicometzintli.comMixtiPriv. Mixcoac, no number.T. 01 (233) 331 0586.www.cuetzalanecologicometzintli.comPeña Los JarritosCarlos García 11.T. 01 (222) 249 4089.www.lacasadepiedra.com/jarritosRivelloGuadalupe Victoria 3.T. 01 (233) 331 0083.Sazón JarochoPrivada Juárez, no number.T. 01 (233) 759 6837.Taquería El KioskoPlaza Celestino Gazca 2.T. 01 (233) 331 0338.www.yoloxochitl.mex.tlTosepan Topaloj ComedorCuetzalan–San Miguel , no number.T. 01 (233) 331 0925.www.tosepankali.comVickyGuadalupe Victoria 16.T. 01 (233) 331 0272.
Villa JaibaFrancisco I. Madero 6.T. 01 (233) 331 0289.www.tosepankali.comYoloxochitl2 de Abril 1.T. 01 (233) 331 0333.www.yoloxochitl.mex.tlShoppingVinos Regionales El CalateMorelos 9.T. 01 (233) 331 0566.
ZACAPOAXTLAWhere to StayCabañas Entrada a la SierraCamino Viejo to Calcahualco, Los Manzanos.T. 01 (233) 314 4920.www.entradasierra.com.mxFinca Santa María Tres ArroyosZacapoaxtla–Cuetzalan road, Apulco.T. 01 (233) 314 3876.www.apulcopuebla.comHotel Provincial5 de Mayo Norte 21, Centro.T. 01 (233) 314 2431.Hostal-Hacienda ApulcoKm 10 on the Zacapoaxtla–Cuetzalan road, Apulco.T. 01 (222) 243 5706.www.hostalhaciendaapulco.comHostal Zacapoaxtla5 de Mayo Norte 4, Centro.Jardín5 de Mayo Norte 31, Centro.T. 01 (233) 314 2034.KuautlapianiRancho San Gabriel Ahuacatlán.T. 01 (233) 314 2616.http://guardiandelbosque.mx/Plaza (restaurant)Plaza de la Constitución Norte 1, Centro.T. 01 (233) 314 2312.www.hotelplazazacapoaxtla.comPozo ViejoZacapoaxtla-Acuaco state road 80,Calcahualco.T. 01 (233) 317 2225.Quinta San José5 de Mayo Norte 12, Centro.T. 01 (233) 314 4224.Where to EatCafé Mulato16 de Septiembre Sur 19, Centro.T. 01 (233) 314 2496.CefeteroAlonso Luque 5, Letra B19, Centro.C. 045 (233) 105 4555.El BalcónAlonso Luque 3, Centro.T. 01 (233) 314 2323.El Molino Rojo5 de Mayo Norte 4, Centro.T. 01 (233) 314 3402.Kone16 de Septiembre Sur 1,Centro.C. 045 (233) 105 5513.Lola Café16 de Septiembre Norte 48,Centro.T. 01 (233) 314 3876.Pollos Ahumados TitoRoad to Cuetzalan Tlalconteno.T. 01 (233) 317 9050.Pollos Ahumados CurtisKm 1 on the Zacapoaxtla-Acuaco road.T. 01 (233) 314 4466.Truchas EjecayanZona de Ejecayan, in front of theVelo de Novia waterfall,2nd Section, Xalticpac.C. 045 (233) 111 4081.Truchas La EsperanzaProl. to Ejecayan,2nd Section, Xalticpac.C. 045 (233) 111 4089.
XOCHIAPULCOWhere to EatCocina Económica5 de Mayo Norte, no number, Centro.T. 01 (233) 311 1000.El Ranchito de Helen y Luis5 de Mayo Norte 101, Centro.T. 01 (233) 311 1086.Comedor Artesanal La GloriaRoad to Atzala, no number, Atzala.C. 045 (233) 110 4075.ShoppingGrupo de ArtesanosBenito Juárez Norte, no number, Centro.Grupo de Artesanos Xochiapulco5 de Mayo, no number, Centro.T. 01 (233) 311 1198.Novedades CastilloBenito Juárez Norte, no number, Centro.
STATE STARS
PUEBLAWhere to StayAntigua Alguería de Carrión (boutique)Nicolás Bravo 2, Centro.T. 01 (222) 761 8383.AristosReforma 533 between 9 and 5 Sur, Centro.T. 01 (222) 232 0565.Best Western Real de Puebla5 Poniente St. 2522, La Paz.T. 01 (222) 230 0122.Casona de la China Poblana (boutique)4 Norte 2, Centro.T. 01 (222) 242 5621.City Express10 Norte St. 1406, El Alto.T. 01 (222) 213 7330.City Express AngelópolisCircuito Juan Pablo II 1755, La Noria.T. 01 (222) 211 7000 / 7005.City Express FinsaSouth service road México–Puebla Hwy Km 117(official no. 3), La Trinidad Sanctorum, Cuautlancingo.T. 01 (222) 622 0700.Courtyard By Marriott31 Pte. 3333 at the corner of Atlixco–Puebla Blvd. T. 01 (222) 477 2110.El Sueño Hotel + SPA9 Oriente 12, Centro.T. 01 (222) 232 6489.Estrella de Belem2 Oriente 410, Centro.T. 01 (222) 261 1925.Fiesta Inn Ánimas39 Poniente 3515, Las Ánimas.T. 01 (222) 303 1600.Holiday Inn ExpressHermanos Serdán Blvd. 45, Amor.T. 01 (222) 303 0303.Holiday Inn FinsaLateral México–Puebla 7719, Rancho Moratilla.T. 01 (222) 223 0000.Holiday Inn La NoriaCircuito Juan Pablo II 1936, Ex Hacienda La Noria.T. 01 (222) 211 9000.Hotel Camino Real AngelópolisKm 5 on the Atlixcáyotl Blvd., Fracc. La Vista.T. 01 (222) 303 1800.Hotel CasareynaPrivada 2 Oriente 1007, Centro.T. 01 (222) 232 0032 / 232 2109.Hotel Condado Plaza31 Oriente at the corner of Priv. 6B Sur,Ladrillera del Benítez, Zona Dorada.T. 01 (222) 237 3303.Hotel del PortalJuan de Palafox and Mendoza 205, Centro.T. 01 (222) 404 6200.Hotel Las Iglesias7 Sur 501, San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 409 7500.Hotel Marriott RealHermanos Serdán Blvd. 807, San Rafael.T. 01 (222) 141 2000.Hotel La PurificadoraCallejón de la 10 Norte 802, Paseo de SanFrancisco, Barrio El Alto.T. 01 (222) 309 1920.Hotel La Quinta Inn & SuitesZeta del Cochero Ave. 407,Reserva Territorial Atlixcáyotl.T. 01 (222) 303 9800.Hotel OneSouth service road México Puebla Hwy 55.T. 01 (222) 622 0200.Hotel Presidente IntercontinentalHermanos Serdán Blvd. 141, Amor.T. 01 (222) 213 7070.Hotel Quinta Real7 Poniente 105, Centro.T. 01 (222) 229 0900.La AlhóndigaPasaje Central del Ayuntamiento, Centro.T. 01 (222) 242 4603.LastraCalzada de los Fuertes 2633, Rincón del Bosque.T. 01 (222) 235 9722.Loa Inn4 Norte 1206, Centro.T. 01 (222) 573 1133.Mesón Sacristía de la Compañía6 Sur 304, Callejón de los Sapos, Centro.T. 01 (222) 232 4513.Misión ArcángelDiagonal Defensores de la República 276,La Moderna.T. 01 (222) 242 5001.MM GrandAtlixco Blvd. 4303, Las Ánimas.T. 01 (222) 211 8440.NH Puebla5 Sur 105, Centro.T. 01 (222) 309 1919.
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel
120
Puebla / aeth dgjmsghn
Palace2 Oriente 13, Centro.T. 01 (222) 232 2430.Plaza Las FuentesHermanos Serdán 743, Las Fuentes.T. 01 (222) 224 5180.Plaza PoblanaNorte Blvd. 4212 and Pradera Ave., Las Cuartillas.T. 01 (222) 223 0205.Posada San Pedro2 Oriente 202, Centro.T. 01 (222) 891 5700.Puebla de Antaño3 Oriente 206, Centro.T. 01 (222) 246 2403.Real del Cristo2 Oriente 1007, Centro.T. 01 (222) 246 1575.RoyaltyPortal Hidalgo 8, Centro.T. 01 (222) 242 4743.San Ángel4 Poniente 504, Centro.T. 01 (222) 409 0570.San Leonardo2 Oriente 211, Centro.T. 01 (222) 223 6605.Señorial4 Norte 602, Centro.T. 01 (222) 246 2120.Villa FloridaAtlixcáyotl Blvd. 110,Zona Angelópolis.T. 01 (222) 237 2222.Where to EatChimichurri (Argentinian)Juárez and 27 Sur, La Paz.T. 01 (222) 249 1534.El Parrillaje (Argentinian)Centro Comercial AngelópolisNiño Poblano Blvd. 2510,Concepción la Cruz.T. 01 (222) 225 3000.www.elparrillaje.comLa Estancia Argentina (Argentinian)Juárez and 29 Sur 701-A, La Paz.T. 01 (222) 248 9991.www.laestanciaargentina.comLa Silla (Argentinian)43 Poniente 507, Huexotitla.T. 01 (222) 211 2911.www.la-silla.com.mxAllegue (Spanish)Matriz: Juárez 2909, La Paz.T. 01 (222) 868 1209.www.allegue.com.mxLa Route des Vins (French)Matríz: Teziutlán Sur and Matamoros 75,La Paz.T. 01 (222) 296 4978.Alfredo Di Roma (Italian)Hermanos Serdán 141, Amor.T. 01 (222) 213 7000.www.alfredodiroma.com.mxGrigliatto (Italian)Juárez 2707, La Paz.T. 01 (222) 248 5539.www.grigliatto.comLucca Ristorante (Italian)Complejo Cultural UniversitarioVía Atlixcáyotl 2499,Reserva Territorial Atlixcáyotl.T. 01 (222) 225 0706.www.facebook.com/LuccaRistorantePueblaVittorio’s (Italian)2 Sur 106, Centro.T. 01 (222) 232 7900.www.restaurantvittorios.comEntre Tierras (International)4 Norte 410, Centro.T. 01 (222) 232 5306.www.entretierras.com.mxIntro Restaurant (International)Zavaleta Ave. 5624, Zavaleta.T. 01 (222) 296 6001.www.introrestaurant.comLas Bodegas del Molino (International)Calz. del Bosque 12,San José del Puente,Cuautlancingo.T. 01 (222) 249 0399.www.lasbodegasdelmolino.comLa Conjura (International)9 Oriente 201, Centro.T. 01 (222) 232 9693.www.laconjura.com.mxRestaurante La Noria (International)23 Sur and 41 Poniente, La Noria.T. 01 (222) 237 7213.www.restaurantelanoria.comShirushi (Japanese)Portal Hidalgo 6,Centro.T. 01 (222) 246 8292.www.shirushi.com.mx
Sushi Itto (Japanese)Juárez 2930, La Paz.T. 01 (222) 231 4759.Palmas Plaza: Zeta del Cochero 403.T. 01 (222) 225 2136.www.sushi-itto.com.mxAl-Saabah (Lebanese)Teziutlán Sur 9, La Paz.T. 01 (222) 249 1019.www.alsaabah.mxCentro Mexicano Libanés (Lebanese)Hermanos Serdán Blvd. 222,Real de Monte.T. 01 (222) 274 0312.Mi Ciudad (Mexican)Juárez 2507, La Paz.T. 01 (222) 231 5326.31 Oriente 1411, El Mirador.T. 01 (222) 245 4556.Palmas Plaza: Zeta del Cochero Ave. 403.T. 01 (222) 225 2025.Mi Viejo Pueblito (Mexican)2 Sur 112, Centro.T. 01 (222) 232 6763.I. Zaragoza Ave. 35,Lomas de Loreto.T. 01 (222) 297 3473.www.miviejopueblito.com.mxRestaurant Villa Rosa (Mexican)5 Oriente 207, Centro.T. 01 (222) 232 4293.www.restaurantvillarosa.comBoca del Río (seafood)14 Sur 3110, El Mirador.T. 01 (222) 574 4222.Juárez 2716, La Paz.T. 01 (222) 482 6919.Cabo San Lucas (seafood)Matriz: Las Torres 2602.T. 01 (222) 264 4253.Angelópolis branch,next to Palmas Plaza.T. 01 (222) 240 5259.www.restaurantecabosanlucas.comFisher’s (seafood)Juárez Ave. 702, La Paz.T. 01 (222) 232 6036.www.fishers.com.mxCasareyna (Pueblan)Priv. 2 Oriente 1007, Centro.T. 01800 226 2089 / 01 (222) 232 0032.www.casareyna.comComplejo Cultural Universitario (Pueblan)Vía Atlixcáyotl 2499, Reserva Territorial Atlixcáyotl.T. 01 (222) 229 5500, ext. 2630.www.casadelosmunecos.comEl Mural de los Poblanos (Pueblan)16 de Septiembre 506, Centro.T. 01 (222) 242 0503.www.elmuraldelospoblanos.comLa Casa de los Muñecos (Pueblan)2 Norte 2, Centro.T. 01 (222) 242 4825.La Casita Poblana (Pueblan)16 de Septiembre 3912, Huexotitla.T. 01 (222) 243 2210.www.lacasitapoblana.com.mxLa Casona de la China Poblana (Pueblan)4 Norte 2, Centro.T. 01 (222) 242 5621.www.casonadelachinapoblana.comMesón Sacristía de La Compañía (Pueblan)6 Sur 304, Centro.T. 01800 161 9985 / 01 (222) 232 4513.www.mesones-sacristia.com
CORNERS OF PUEBLA
ATLIXCOWhere to StayLa AldeaCampestre El Pinar St., no number,Ex Hacienda Tizayuca, Atlixco.T. 01 (222) 443 2435.Quinta MetepecI. Zaragoza St. 35, Atlixco.T. 01 (222) 444 0999.
WHO TO TRAVEL WITHSTATEWIDE
SIERRA MÁGICAZACATLÁNEcoaventura AlternativaZaragoza 22, San José.T. 01 (797) 975 4066.C. 045 (764) 108 1384.www.ecoaventura001.blogspot.mxMass Servicios TurísticosMorelos 3, int. C, Centro.T. 01 (797) 975 0331.www.masspuebla.comRappel Cascada San PedroKm 1 on the Zacatlán–Chignahuapan road.C. 045 (797) 106 5546 / 103 5547.
TunacDaniel Cabrera 27, local 4, El Arco, Zacatlán.T. 01 (797) 975 3362.C. 045 (797) 106 3277.www.tunac.com.mx
CHINGNAHUAPANMaría Rosa Hernández GonzálezEusebio 730, Teotlalpan.C. 045 (797) 103 5170.Sierra ToursCuauhtémoc 40, Centro.C. 045 (797) 101 7202.www.enchignahuapan.com/sierratours.htmlTurismo Receptivo CitlalitzelGuerrero 401,Centro.C. 045 (797) 106 7320.
HUAUCHINANGOTour Operadora Sierra Viva33 Poniente, no number (between 23 & 25 Sur),Benito Juárez.C. 045 (222) 411 4076.
HONEYIsrael Aparicio SeverinoJuárez, no number, Centro, Chila de Juárez.T. 01 (776) 596 0901.Leonardo Aparicio MoralesKnown address, Chila de Juárez.
STATE STARSPUEBLAAgencia de Viajes FlosanPriv. 5 Sur A 2108, El Carmen.T. 01 (222) 243 7763.www.viajesflosan.comHaydee ViajesOld road to Manzanilla 32–B,Joaquín Colombres.T. 01 (222) 756 5817 / 5816.Mextur25 Oriente 1613, Bella Vista.T. 01 (222) 296 6615.www.mextur.com.mxParaísos MexicanosTeziutlán Norte Ave. 1, local G, La Paz.T. 01 (222) 756 5688 / 230 2367.www.paraisosmexicanos.com.mxSelvazul31 Poniente 3308–A, int. 7,Santa Cruz los Ángeles.T. 01 (222) 237 4887 / 620 8045.www.selvazul.comSeritur14 Oriente 2835–6, Humboldt.T. 01 (222) 360 7387 / 386 1765.Turísticos Poblanos7 Sur 3102, Chula Vista.T. 01 (222) 243 9001.www.turisticospoblanos.comTurissamCholultecas 2, Bello Horizonte.T. 01 (222) 284 3529 / 509 4689.Ver Turístico7 Poniente 701, local 9, Centro.T. 01 (222) 296 7936.www.verturistico.comViajes FaríasPrivada 11 Sur 3304, Volcanes.T. 01 (222) 243 7354.www.viajesfarias.com.mxViajes HrJuárez Ave. 2713, La Paz.T. 01 (222) 248 7988 / 304 0142.Viajes Tip2 Pte. 2108, Amor.T. 01 (222) 248 5580.Viajes y Turismo Estrella RojaNorte Blvd. 4222 (CAPU).T. 01 (222) 273 8327.
CHOLULAIdeal Tours5° Retorno Osa Menor 2, int. 2,Ciudad Judicial, San Andrés.T. 01 (222) 431 2642 / 651 8987.México Mágico13 Sur 103, 3rd floor, Centro,San Pedro Cholula.T. 01 (222) 247 6833.
CORNERS OF PUEBLATEHUACÁNMosaicos de México1 Sur 110, int. 302, Los Portales.T. 01 (238) 408 8869.
www. .travel
www. .travel
www. .travel