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THE HUMANE SOCIETYH’WOOD’S CAUSE CELEB

EARTH DAY FROM CLIMATE CHANGE

TO ECO CHIC, WE’RE TALKING ABOUT IT!

PLUSSTELLA MCCARTNEY

MICHAEL GOVANANNA CAMP

MB’S FOODIE REVOLUTION!

THE HOUSE OF CARDS SHARK PLAYS TO WIN

KEVINSPACEYSPACEY

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Hidden HawaiiFor LA’s eco A-list, the islands’ secluded spots

reveal the true essence of Hawaii.BY KATHRYN DRURY WAGNER

LEFT TO RIGHT: Maui’s Hamoa Beach, with its crescent of salt-and-pepper sand, is among “America’s Top 10 Beaches,” according to the list compiled by environmentalist Dr. Beach. Dancers from Halau Palaihiwa O Kaipuwai hula school perform at the East Maui Taro Festival, an annual event that delivers live music and cultural demonstrations.

106 LA-CONFIDENTIAL-MAGAZINE.COM

Like any world-class destination, Hawaii offers glossy retail

scenes, swanky dining options, and elite-chic accommodations.

But if pampering isn’t all you’re after—if you seek a more

intimate glimpse into the culture and community of the is-

lands—then step off the beaten, albeit picturesque, path. We’ve

uncovered some new ways to get an unforgettable, authentic

Hawaii experience.

THE END OF THE ROAD: HANA

Some 500,000 people drive Maui’s

Hana Highway each year, reveling in

the twisting road and luxuriant scen-

ery, but few visitors spend any time in

the rugged coastal town that is Hana.

“It’s a destination of its own; a lot of

people call it ‘the last Hawaiian

place,’” says resident Judy Kinser. The

community is mostly Hawaiian or

part Hawaiian; some people still use

throw-nets to catch fish in the manner

of their ancestors.

“You can connect to the earth in

Hana. It’s the place to go if you want to sit on the lanai, watch the stars, and

hear the waves,” says Maggie Wagner, the senior director of spa and retail at

Travaasa Hana, Maui (travaasa.com/hana). Her suggestion? “Stop at the road-

side stands for great local fruit; pick up some papaya and coffee.”

Not all of the area’s crops are reserved for snacking. Wagner works with a local

plantation, Hana Gold, to source organic cacao for her spa’s newest indulgence,

the Cocomint body treatment and massage. “Cacao is great for your skin; it has a

lot of healing properties and antioxidants,” she says. The 90-minute treatment also

involves shea butter, coconut-mint oil, and an organic aloe face mask.

She also recommends visitors bask on Hamoa Beach (hamoabeach.org), a cres-

cent of salt-and-pepper sand that has been listed in environmental scientist Dr.

Beach’s list of America’s Top 10 Beaches.

Another can’t-miss is H�ana’s tropical botanical site, Kahanu Garden

(ntbg.org/gardens), which presents a superlush collection of Polynesian

plants. It’s also the location of the remains of a sacred temple, Pi’ilanihale

Heiau. The largest stone temple in Hawaii, this ancient place of worship

dates back to at least 1500 and was built over several centuries out of lava

rock—without the benefit of mortar. It is believed to hold great mana, or

powerful spiritual significance.

If you can, plan to be in town on April 25 for the East Maui Taro Festival (tarofes-

tival.org). This free fête is in its 23rd year, and delivers live music and cultural

demonstrations, such as poi pounding—poi is the Hawaiian staple food made from

taro, called “kalo” in the Hawaiian language. Taro is one of the most nutritious

foods in the world, and the festival has 20 booths with dishes such as taro seafood

chowder, taro burgers, and taro gelato. “We always sell out of kulolo, a dessert

made of mashed-up taro and mixed with coconut milk and cane sugar, then baked

for hours,” says Kinser, who is the event’s coordinator.

If you can’t stomach the curlicue drive to Hana, fly in, instead: Mokulele Airlines

(mokuleleairlines.com) operates puddle-jumper flights from Kahului, turning a

three-hour-plus trek into a quick jaunt.

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THE ONE THAT GOT AWAY: HANAPEPE

Located on Kauai’s southwest shore, Hanapepe is a place that time… well, per-

haps it didn’t forget, but it seems to have granted it a free pass. The town is filled

with 1920s buildings, built in false-front pioneer style by Chinese immigrants.

It has the vibe of a silenced Western movie set gone Gauguin.

Hanapepe wasn’t always so isolated. In the 1930s and ’40s, it bustled

with GIs on R&R and activity from the port and airport. Then everything

moved to Lihu’e.

By the 1970s, the village had largely been abandoned, leaving the histori-

cal buildings empty. Luckily, artists saw the potential—and cheap rents—and

moved in, beginning the town’s renaissance. Today, Hanapepe boasts three

blocks’ worth of fetching galleries and shops amid the otherworldly

architecture. “It’s a really wonderful town in which to find local art,” says

resident Joanna Carolan. Herself an artist, Carolan founded the Banana

Patch Studio (bajmnanapatchstudio.com) in 1991, restoring a 1926 building

that had once been a bakery and pool hall.

Shoppers with a discerning eye browse the town’s intimate fine art gal-

leries, on the hunt for paintings, mixed media, jewelry, and photography.

Some galleries offer private showings, but do call ahead to make arrange-

ments. With curators setting their own hours, you may find a gallery closed

when the surf’s up.

The time to visit is on Friday evenings for the weekly Art Night, held from 6

to 9 PM. Musicians—from slack key to string quartets—come from all over the

Kauai’s Kalalau Trail is “one of

the most treacherous” to hike,

according to local Robert

Miguel, but its primordial

beauty is worth the risk.

“Don’t fill your vacation too much. You’ll miss the truth

of the island.” —ROBERT MIGUEL

Humuhumunukunukuapua’a

(“humu” for the Hawaiian-

challenged) is the colorful state fish

of Hawaii, and also the namesake

of a sunset-drenched restaurant at

the Grand Wailea Resort (grandwailea.

com), on Maui’s southwest shore.

Chef de cuisine Mike Lofaro is on a hot streak after being named

“Best Maui Chef” and Humu “Best Resort Restaurant” by the The

Maui News. He spends most mornings communing with the ocean

surrounding the island, surfing, paddling, fishing, or spearfishing. The

sea has inspired both his hobbies and his cooking style ever since he

was a 13-year-old kid on Block Island, Rhode Island, peeling shrimp

and cleaning mussels at a seafood shack. After training at the Culinary

Institute of America, he further honed his seafood prowess in San

Francisco under renowned chef Michael Mina of Aqua fame.

Lofaro’s seafood features “bright, acidic, refreshing flavors,” he says.

“I’m really into raw seafood lately… onaga sashimi, ahi poke, kampachi

from the Big Island, ono, hamachi.” But ingredients without gills

receive careful attention, too. Lofaro has cultivated relationships with

farmers to source Maui-grown eggplant, mustard greens, kale, and

papaya. Mike McCoy, of Fresh Island Herbs, provides the chef with

curry leaf, citrus, baby fennel, kumquats, loquats, and microgreens. “I

talk to him almost on a daily basis to see what is coming up,” says

Lofaro. “It’s a symbiotic relationship.”

Diners at Humu won’t be spearfishing with Lofaro, but they’ll come

pretty close. A million-gallon saltwater lagoon surrounds the oceanside

restaurant, and patrons can select their own Maine lobster or Hawaiian

spiny lobster. This just may be the most sophisticated take on a

seafood shack, ever.

MIKE LOFARO: CATCH OF THE DAY

island to perform in the streets, and food trucks hang out their shingles. How about

the end of the week? Decidedly slower. “Sundays are old-school,” says Carolan.

“We’re closed. The church is open.”

A lifelong resident of Kauai, Robert Miguel grew up in Hanapepe. He puts

his local knowledge to the test at his job; he’s the island pursuits manager at

luxury residential community Kukui’ula, located on Kauai’s south side

(kukuiula.com). The 1,010-acre development has oceanview home sites, bun-

galows, and plantation-style cottages as well as 15 cottages available for

nightly rental. Miguel shows the community’s members and guests around

the island, leading them on adventures such as paddling, canoeing, or hiking

the Kalalau Trail (kalalautrail.com).

“It’s one of the most treacherous trails in the world, constantly in the top-five

hikes,” says Miguel. “Eleven miles of uneven terrain, switchbacks. It’s on the

North Shore. You get to do several stream crossings, and there are beautiful

white-sand beaches at the end and a waterfall you can bathe in. The terrain

remains how it has been since the time of the ancient Hawaiians.”

When planning activities for his guests, he often leaves in an extra day or

two of complete leisure. He says, “Don’t fill your vacation too much. You’ll

miss the truth of the island. Let the day sink in. There’s a rejuvenation thing

that comes into play on Kauai… that’s the magic of Hawaii!” LAC

Chef de cuisine Mike Lofaro

harvests fresh fish and shellfish

for Humu restaurant at the

Grand Wailea Resort on Maui.

Ceramics at Banana Patch Studio are fired on-site by craftsmen using a solar-powered kiln.

Robert Miguel, island pursuits manager at

Kukui’ula, a luxury residential community on Kauai’s south side,

takes a paddle-boarding break.

Musicians from all over Kauai perform in the streets of Hanapepe

during Art Night.

LA-CONFIDENTIAL-MAGAZINE.COM 109

Donated luggagecan help everyone

You can donate your gentlyused rolling luggage to charity andreceive credit for a new bag. Theprogram, by way of luggagemakerBriggs&Riley, donates thebags tofoster homes, women’s shelters,and organizations such as localRonald McDonald House chap-ters, a company statement said.Turn in a Briggs & Riley bag, andyou’ll receive a $100 credit to buy anewBriggs&Rileybag; turn inanybag and you’ll receive a $50 credittoward a Briggs & Riley bag. Theluggage comes in four collectionsand costs $299 for a wheelie carry-on to$699 fora largewheeledward-robe. For a list of participatingstores and more information:www.lat.ms/1Me1ChH

— Mary Forgione

See faces of HawaiiVisitors toMaui can explore the

varied facesof thepeopleofHawaiiin a free art exhibition in Kahului.Worksofart fromtheSchaeferPor-trait Challenge are on displaythrough mid-March at the MauiArts & Cultural Center. Everythree years, the center invites art-istsworking in variousmedia— in-cluding painting, printmaking andsculpture — to submit works thatdepictthepeopleandstoriesofHa-waii through what’s called “explo-rations in portraiture.” This year’sexhibition contains 66 works bymore than 60 artists from the BigIsland of Hawaii, Kauai, Lanai,MauiandOahu.Theirworksrepre-sent people of various cultural andethnic backgrounds and vary fromliteral to abstract. The portraitsare displayed in the center’sSchaefer International Gallery,open10 a.m.-5 p.m. Tuesdays-Sun-days. Admission is free. Guestswho visit by March 8 can vote forthe People’s Choice Award. It,along with a $5,000 prize, will beawarded during a reception at5 p.m. March 15. Info:www.mauiarts.org

— Jay Jones

State’s parks onlineA new website allows you to

search all California parklands,fromthebignational parks to localdog parks. The CaliParks website— www.caliparks.org — will helpyou plan your next adventure at11,826 parks statewide and findwhat you’re looking for in oneplace. It works in English andSpanish on smartphones and tab-lets as well as laptops and desktopcomputers. You can search na-tional, state, regional and urbanparks to connect with a place tohike or surf. Enter the city or ZIPCode you’re interested in or checkout CaliParks’ favorites on thehomepage. If you’re thinkingof go-ing to a national park today (Sun-day) orMonday, admission will befree (although not all charge ad-mission). National forests, such asAngeles and Los Padres sites inSouthern California, offer free ad-mission on Monday only. Info:www.lat.ms/1EZjtXy

— Mary Forgione

Mobile guitar tutorTravel with a song in your heart

and you can be accompanied by aguitar (sort of) in your hands —and learn to play it. All you need isan iPad, iPhone orMac (sorry, An-droid)andthenewZivixJamstik,a16-inch, 3-pound device with steelstrings and frets. The guitar(which looks like a guitar neck), ispowered by an included recharge-able battery and connects wire-lesslytoyourdevicebywayofapro-prietary interface with JamstikConnect, the free app.A freemusicapp, jamTutor, becomes your mo-bile teacher, and an online Jam-stik-playing human takes youthrough the basics. The Jamstikcomes with an adjustable neckstrap, amicro USB charging cableand two guitar picks. A Bluetoothmodel is due this year. The digitalguitar costs $280. Information:www.jamstik.com

— Judi Dash

NEED TO KNOWNEWS • TIPS • TRENDS

Schaefer Portrait Challenge

JamStik.com

Mark Boster L.A. Times

ICE CREAM fromMcCon-nell’s in Santa Barbara.

The bedDoneupwitha retro, eco-

conscious, surfer vibe, the 5-month-oldKimptonGoodland(5650CalleReal, [805] 964-6241,www.thegoodland.com), for-merly aHoliday Inn, brings abigdose of hipster cred toGoleta,just a fewmiles northofSantaBarbara.Theboutiquehotel’srecordplayer, vinyl albumsandvintagemini-bar snacks (GooGooCluster, PopRocks) letmesharewithmy teenartifacts ofmychildhood. (“What?Albumshave two sides?” he said inmocksurprise.)Our comfortable roomhad the cheerful personality ofan Ikea-shoppingmillennial: amix of ethnic-textile-coveredpillows, throwsandwalls; re-claimedwood fronted thedress-er; and slidingbarndoors con-cealed the colorful, concrete-tiledbathroom.Complimentarybicycles anda spaciouspool arealet youngsters burnoff energy.Kids17 andyounger stay freewhenaccompaniedbyanadult.

ThemealGoleta seems to favor lunch-

oriented restaurants in stripmalls suchas theCalleRealCenter nextdoor to theGood-land.At themall’sNikkaFishMarket&Grill (5722CalleReal,[805] 967-2600,www.nikkafishmarketandgrill.com),wehov-eredover the chalkboardmenuof specials (lobster roll, shrimpenchiladas) andeyed thedisplaycase of fresh fish cooked toorder(grilled, fried, burgers, pasta)andpromised to return for lunch.Fordinner, the lively atmosphereat thehotel’s restaurant, theOutpost (5650CalleReal, [805]964-1288,www.outpostsb.com),luredus to a tasty andconven-ientmeal of tacos, empanadasand baobuns. Forbreakfast,wedrove about fivemiles todown-townSantaBarbara’sTupeloJunctionCafe (1218StateSt.,[805] 899-3100,www.tupelojunction.com) for the generousportions that can fill a teenboy(for a littlewhile).Ourpicks: astarter of apple beignets; deep-dishmac ’n’ cheesewith collardgreens; andahearty spinach,bacon, caramelizedonionandGouda scramblewithhome-madebananapecanbread.

The findSantaBarbara’s downtown

StateStreetwas souncrowded,it felt bucolic evenwithanotice-able and sometimes-aggressivepopulationof panhandlers. Thestreet’s trendy clothing and shoestores, bicycle shops,Apple

Store andcafes heldmyson’sinterest—especiallyAntiqueAlley’s collectionof vintage cam-eras.Did Imention Iwas trav-elingwithahungry teen?Spot-ting a sparkling-clean, full-sizeMcConnell’s Fine IceCreams, he

wasable to survey the gourmetSantaBarbarabrand’s entirecollectionand samplenew fla-vors suchasSeaSaltCream&Cookies andSaltedCaramelChip.

The lesson learnedKickingoff the school search

processwith aquick triphasmade the loomingprospect offinding a college real—anda realadventure.

travel@latimes.com

WEEKEND ESCAPE | GOLETA, CALIF.

Valli Herman

RETRO YET OF THE MOMENT is the vibe at Kimpton Goodland in Goleta. Its pool is designed for energetic youngsters.

UlteriormotiveLaid-back mom wants to shop and chill — with her energetic teenson. The Santa Barbara area provides a satisfying adventure for both.

Traveling with a teenager doesn’t often offer appealing options for keeping parentand child equally entertained. Laid-back mom avoids commotion; high-energy kid craves action. The(sneaky) compromise? A vacation that can do double duty as an introduction to college. A two-hour drive tothe town of Goleta gave us a look at a new hipster hotel, a student-swarmed college town and a peek at Anti-och University, the Brooks Institute and UC Santa Barbara. The tab: from $229 a night, depending on theseason, at the Goodland, $65 for dinner, $50 for breakfast and $10 for ice cream.

BYVALLIHERMAN >>>

Valli Herman

RECLAIMED WOOD and sustainable materials accent the rooms at the Kimpton Goodland.Barn-like doors conceal the bathroom and closet. Bold textiles provide decoration.

Al Seib Los Angeles Times

STATE STREET in Santa Barbara is well stocked with shops— including an Apple Store — yet can feel surprisingly bucolic.

Sources: Mapbox, OpenStreetMap

SantaBarbara

Goleta

Los AngelesLos Angeles

LancasterLancaster

Santa ClaritaSanta Clarita

Ventura

Pacific Ocean

SantaCatalina

Channel IslandsNational Park

20 MILES

Lou Spirito Los Angeles Times

101

101

Valli Herman

LATIMES.COM/TRAVEL SUNDAY, FEBRUARY 15, 2015 L3

latimes.com/weekendescapesGoonline formoreWeekendEscapes.

!

$3.95 May 2016

A FULL-CIRCLE VIEW OF WHERE WE LIVE

Fort Worth designer puts her mark on global hot spots

In the kitchen with chef Lina Biancamano

Longtime arts patron Evelyn Siegel gives back

Singing the praises of the Texas Boys Choir

It’s time to cool things down when the weather heats up

SUMMER

SPLASH

SUMMER

SPLASH

96 May 2016 360westmagazine.com

F

Destinations

1,600 acres. Three properties.

Fresh-water canals. Pools galore. And oh, the beaches. A Mexico-savvy

Yucatan resort to be a seaside jungle sanctuary

like no other. By Marita Adair

WELCOME TOWANDERLAND

At Mayakoba Rosewood, this beachfront terrace offers a palm-shaded deck, plunge pool and the perfect view of white sand, azure water and blue sky.

360westmagazine.com May 2016 97

Some resort guests arrive at their accommodations via electric water taxis that shuttle through the freshwater canals — handy when your lodging is on the water. Left, a partial overview of the Fairmont shows how water comes into play: ocean in front, puzzle-piece pool in the middle and casitas facing both canals and sea. Below, at the Rosewood, pools and ocean are mere steps apart.

Bird watchers get a view of a limpkin as he nabs an apple snail, an abundant favorite snack.

Photo by Iván Gabaldón/rideintobirdland.com

Photos courtesy of Mayakoba Resort

98 May 2016 360westmagazine.com

Destinations

Sense, Rosewood’s decidedly serene spa, is surrounded by tropical gardens.

Bathrooms are as exotic as the landscape at Mayakoba, which means “village on water” in Mayan.

the Banyan hotel lobby.

WELCOME TOWANDERLAND

culinary art studiosYOU CALL THEM RESTAURANTS — WE CALL THEM

Hil l Countr y cuisine | over 3 0 wineries and tas t ing rooms | sophis t icated shopping m u s e u m s & h i s t o r i c s i t e s | f e s t i v a l s & e v e n t s | G e r m a n h e r i t a g e | g o l f p e ac h e s & w i l d f l o w e r s | e c l e c t i c a r t g a l l e r i e s | c y c l i n g | l i v e Te x a s m u s i c

Vis i tFreder icksburgTX.com | 866 997 3600

THE DETAILSMayakoba The resort offers three luxury hotels

in three price ranges: Rosewood, Banyan Tree

and Fairmont. The accommodations and other

of Cancun and 10 minutes north of Playa del

Carmen on Mexico’s Riviera Maya. Each hotel

cooperatively shares amenities and activities plus

complimentary transport within the resort. TV,

telephone and Wi-Fi are available in each room.

For rates and information, visit mayakoba.com.

Who goes here

Singles, couples and families seeking an

uncrowded, service-focused tropical setting

paired with beach, sporting and jungle nature

activities, as well as the convenience of multiple

dining choices and local culture — all without

leaving the resort.

What to do

All Mayakoba: 18-hole golf course, a mile

of private beach, 18 restaurants and bars,

three spas, multiple swimming pools, three-

day photography workshop, staffed kids

clubs, kayaking, archery, tennis, nature and

jogging trail, canal boat rides, biking, pro shop,

shopping.

Special activities: Banyan — Asian-focused

cooking classes, daily yoga, moonlight and

breakfast dining for two by boat, turtle release

twice yearly. Rosewood — Bees Farm Tour,

tequila tasting. Fairmont — cooking school,

Mexican craft beer tasting. Hotel guests at any

of the three hotels may partake of amenities at

other hotels. Several activities require advance

reservation and are offered at an extra price.

What to pack

Golf clubs, swimsuit, lightweight resort attire

with slightly more special, but casual, duds

Fresh seafood appetizers are served beachside at Fairmont’s Las Brisas.

Photo by Marita Adair

A Nuduul concierge will help you spend less time making vacation plans

and more time making memories.

You don’t have to stay at a five star hotel to enjoy five star service. From equipment rentals and local excursions to dinner reservations or groceries, a Nuduul concierge will help you spend less time planning your vacation and more time enjoying your vacation.

Meet your personal destination assistant at Nuduul.com

#ConciergeforEveryone

Destinations

360

A water taxi glides by the perfectly manicured 18-hole golf course.

of birds to focus on.

WELCOME TOWANDERLAND

MAY 2016

67 ways to soak up summer

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67 ways to soak up summer

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may 2016 southwest 51

SITTEE RIVER, BELIZE One of the fi rst things you might notice on the Jungle River Tour with hamanasi resort(rooms from $333; excursions $65) in Hopkins, Belize, is the noise: Brilliantly colored birds ranging from parakeets to keel-billed toucans sing in the can-opy of trees above, quite the soundtrack as you canoe down the coastal Sittee River. Also keep an eye out for bobbing saltwater crocs and green and orange iguanas.

MOHICAN RIVER, OHIOPrefer a relaxed day on the water? Rent inner tubes from mohican adventures ($15) in central Ohio and fl oat along the Mohican River. The lazy 7-mile route winds through dense forest and sun-fi lled ravines. Reserve an extra tube for your cooler full of food, or stop at one of the snack bars on the riverbank. When night falls, bed down in one of Mohican Adventures’ cabins (from $100 for up to seven people).

MAY RIVER, SOUTH CARO-LINA History buff s will love LINA History buff s will love LINAexploring the May River in Blufft on, South Carolina, aboard the Grace, one of the few gas-powered pre–World War I yachts left in the U.S. The boat was recently restored—to the tune of $1 million—by mon-tage palmetto bluff (rooms from $275; sails from $50) and now sports everything from a new engine to a fresh coat of paint. Enjoy a glass of cham-pagne and hors d’oeuvres on a sunset tour, or sample wines on the Sommelier Sip and Sail.

MISSISSIPPI RIVER While river MISSISSIPPI RIVER While river MISSISSIPPI RIVERcruising got its start in Europe, it’s making inroads in the U.S. on waterways like the Mighty Mississippi. On american

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