8/9/2019 36 Hours in Montevideo

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36 Hours in Montevideo, Uruguay

By PAOLA SINGERMAY 21, 2014

Continue reading te !ain "tory S#ide So$

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Scenes Fro Montevideo

Scenes Fro Montevideo

Credit %iego Giudi&e 'or (e Ne$ Yor) (i!e"

*ruguay a" !ade a "+#a" in te ne$" in re&ent !ont" La$!a)er" a##o$ed "a!e-"e.&ou+#e" to !arry #e"" tan a year ago, !ari/uana e&a!e #ega# in %e&e!er and te&ountry" 'o#)"y +re"ident, o"3 Mu/i&a, a" a++eared in !any !againe +ro'i#e"5 6i#e"o!e de7e#o+!ent" &an e "een a" a &ontinuation o' te &ountry" tra&) re&ord o' e&ono!i&and "o&ia# #iera#i"!, tey a#"o +oint to a ne$, o#der attitude, $i& &an e ea"i#y g#i!+"edin Monte7ideo, te &a+ita#5 Ne$ ote#", &u#tura# "+a&e", re"taurant" and a re"identia# ui#ding oo! a7e 8ui&)ened te &ity" tran8ui# +a&e5 Sti##, te a++ea# o' Monte7ideo #ie"not in no7e#ty ut in it" ti!e#e"" a&)dro+ o' 'in-de-"i9&#e ar&ite&ture, "ady +#aa" andri7er"ide +ro!enade" ordered y "andy ea&e" : +#a&e" $ere #aid-a&) re"ident"indu#ge in #i'e" "i!+#e +#ea"ure"5

F!"#$%

1& History and Fleas | 3 '&&

On $ee)day a'ternoon", te Ciudad ;ie/a, or O#d (o$n, u"t#e" $it a&ti7ity5 A!id tedi"tri&t" !any an)", au&tion ou"e", &a'e" and outi8ue", 7i"itor" $i## 'ind "tate#y Art%e&o and Beau.-Art" ui#ding", &o#onia# &ur&e" and #ea'y "8uare"5 Start your "tro## at teP#aa Inde+enden&ia, $it it" <<-'oot rone "tatue o' *ruguay" 'ounding 'ater, o"3Ger7a"io Artiga"5 (en ead o7er to Ca##e Sarand=, a #i7e#y +ede"trian #ane tat #ead" toP#aa Matri, $ere te 'ir"t &on"titution too) e''e&t near#y t$o &enturie" ago5 No$aday",

ti" tree-#ined 8uadrang#e o"t" a '#ea !ar)et $ere you &an +i&) u+ 7intage !ate gourd",gau&o )ni7e" $it intri&ate "i#7er and#e", un+o#i"ed a!ety"t "#a" and 'ine-art +rint"'ro! te >?0" and >@0"5

(& )ortado, Please | * '&&

*ruguayan" ne7er ")i+ te !erienda, $i& in oter +art" o' te $or#d i" )no$n a" teati!e5Ca'3 Bra"i#ero i" one o' te &ity" !o"t 7enera#e &o''ee "o+", $it Gerder (onet ent$ood &air", #a+a&o-'ra!ed $indo$" and ra"" &ande#ier" dating a&) to 1@@5 You!igt "+ot #o&a# inte##e&tua#" #i)e Eduardo Ga#eano, a +ro!inent $riter and a&ti7i"t, "i++inga &ortado e"+re""o $it a da" o' $ar! !i#)D <0 +e"o", or 2520, at 225< +e"o" to tedo##arF y te $indo$5 (o"e $o +re'er &onte!+orary interior" &an ead to neary a&into,a re"taurant and a)ery o+ened #a"t year y Lu&=a Soria, a young &e' $o trained underran&i" Ma##!ann, te ig#y regarded Argentine &e'5 Bread", &roi""ant", #e!on "8uare"and du#&e de #e&e +a"trie" are a)ed in-ou"eD &o''ee drin)" are !ade $it La7aa ean"5

3& Southern Per+orances | '&&

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See $at" on at te (eatro So#=", te &ountry" +re!ier +er'or!ing art" &enter, $it a 'our-tiered auditoriu!, gi#ded a##$ay" and neo-C#a""i&a#-"ty#e 'a&ade5 (i" 1<? ui#ding i"o!e to te Or8ue"ta i#ar!Hni&a de Monte7ideo, and o"t" o+era, teater and a##et +er'or!an&e", in&#uding a re&ent triute to te Ru""ian &oreogra+er ;a"#a7 Ni/in")y'eaturing te a##erina Mar=a Ri&&etto, a nationa# "tar5 Not into &#a""i& genre" Latin

A!eri&a" e"t indie and" +#ay at La (ra"tienda C#u, a &a'e and &on&ert-"ty#e "+a&e $ereyou !igt &at& ro&)-en-E"+aJo# ea7y$eigt" #i)e La ;e#a Puer&a or Ber"uit ;ergaraat5

-& .ate/ight Fuel | Midnight

An un!ar)ed ar on te &orner o' Pau##ier and GuanK Street" i" te +#a&e 'or #ate-nigt!ea#" and drin)"5 6en te re"taurateur Pe+e #7are too) o7er te "+a&e in 200, e +re"er7ed it" &entury-o#d '#oor-to-&ei#ing +ine "e#7e" and +atterned '#oor ti#e", a#ong $it a&uriou" tradition ti" 'or!er genera# "tore ne7er ad a na!e5 Mr5 #7are a" e#+ed tore/u7enate te &entra##y #o&ated ut !o"t#y "#ee+y neigorood o' CordHn, tan)" to teyoung oe!ian +atron" tat +our in on $ee)end nigt"5 %inner, $i& in&#ude" #a!

ra7io#i and "+ina& ri"otto entree" 'ro! <0 +e"o"F, i" "er7ed unti# 2 a5!5S$U!#$%

*& )ro's and Sho's | a&&

ou"ed in"ide a "oaring iron "tru&ture 'ro! te ear#y 100", $it #u"trou" &ei#ing" and"tained-g#a"" $indo$", te ne$#y re&on"tru&ted Mer&ado Agr=&o#a i" a!ong te !o"tar&ite&tura##y "igni'i&ant 'ood !ar)et" in te region5 More tan 100 7endor", "e##inge7eryting 'ro! #o&a# +rodu&e and dry-aged ee' to er" and and-#oo!ed "a$#", attra&tre"ident" and 7i"itor" to te $or)ing-&#a"" neigorood o' Goe"5 Se7era# "tand" "er7e&o''ee and +a"trie", ut $y not "tart te day $it i&e &rea! %e# Nieto Cia do#e" outge#ato $it a *ruguayan t$i"tD a") 'or a yera !ate or tannat-gra+e "ugar &one ?< +e"o"F5(en #oo) 'or #eater-ound !ate gourd" and and-+ainted &era!i&" at %i"eJo SurArte"ano5

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;intage &ar" at Bodega Boua5 Credit %iego Giudi&e 'or (e Ne$ Yor) (i!e"

6& Midday Flight | oon

Boo) a re!i", or to$n &ar, 'or te 20-!inute dri7e to Bodega Boua &ar &o!+anie" #i)e

Re!i"e" La E"+aJo#a a7e rate" y te ourF5 (i" eauti'u##y #and"&a+ed $inery i" a 'ront-runner in te #o&a# indu"try, &reating earty red" !ade $it tannat, te "ignature *ruguayangra+e, a" $e## a" te!+rani##o and !er#ot5 At teir ri&)-$a##ed re"taurant, try te #a! "tri+#oin ?00 +e"o"F, &u##ed 'ro! te e"tate" a!+"ire %o$n erd, ten te 7ani##a-ean '#an$it ti&) du#&e de #e&e5 6ine" &an e ordered y te g#a"" or "a!+#ed in a '#igt ta"ting"'ro! @<0 +e"o"F5 In te o$ner" 7intage &ar "o$roo!, you## 'ind a 1?4 CitrQen %5S5,ord Mode# (" and a dro## Me""er"&!itt 1<@ !ini&ar5

2& Private !oos | 3 '&&

(e o!e o' te ar&ite&t u#io ;i#a!a/H, $o de"igned te *nited Nation" ead8uarter"

a#ong"ide O"&ar Nie!eyer and Le Coru"ier, a!ong oter", i" one o' te !o"t de#igt'u#!u"eu!" in te &ity 'reeF5 It" a !oderni"t 'i7e-"tory ou"e, $it &ur7e" and ang#e" tat'or! ni&e" 'or in#aid 'urni"ing", "urrounded y inter&onne&ted outdoor "+a&e" a garden,a +atio and a terra&e5 A "ort dri7e a$ay i" te 'or!er "u!!er re"iden&e o' uan orri##a deSan Mart=n, te +oet $o $rote te i"tori&a# e+i& (aar3T in 1?5 (e &o#onia#-"ty#eou"e, ui#t in 104, +re"er7e" te ard" +ri7ate roo!", +oto" and art &o##e&tion 'reeF5

& )ontagious 4eats | * '&&

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6a" te tango orn in *ruguay or Argentina I" yera !ate a Paraguayan i!+ort And $oget" to &#ai! du#&e de #e&e Cando!e, on te oter and, i" une8ui7o&a##y *ruguayan5(i" +er&u""i7e 'o#)#ori& !u"i&, +#ayed y and" o' u+ to 40 !u"i&ian" $o "tra+ on arre#-"a+ed dru!" and $a#) in uni"on a" tey eat, i" a 'u"ion o' A'ri&an ryt!" &reated yMonte7ideo" #a&) +o+u#ation in te 1t &entury5 Se7era# &o!+ar"a", or trou+e", +ut on

"treet "o$" in Barrio Sur and Pa#er!o5 oin te neigor" $o "te+ out to ear La a&a#a +#ay e7ery Saturday at te inter"e&tion o' E/ido and Ceo##at= Street"5

& )ulinary "'orts | 10 '&&

E#"a Mane#+e, 'ro! te i"#and o' R3union, i" ringing e.oti& '#a7or" to Monte7ideo5 Ater $ee)#y $ord-o'-!out "u++er &#u &a##ed Cui"ine Se&rete, e.+e&t to 'ind A"ian "+i&e"and ren& '#air5 A re&ent 'i7e-&our"e dinner aout 1,00 +e"o", in&#uding $ineF, e#d ater oe!ian-&i& ou"e in Ciudad ;ie/a, in&#uded +ea-and-+e&orino "ou''#3, a ginger-"+i&ed 'i" terrine $it a &o&onut and "ri!+ "au&e, and green-tea i&e &rea! $it '#a!3ed +inea++#e"5 A &a7eat M"5 Mane#+e, a !e!er o' te ga"trono!i& "o&iety %i"&i+#e"

E"&o''ier, "+end" !u& o' te *ruguayan $inter in "outern ran&e5 A" an a#ternati7e,&e&) te "&edu#e at Mutate, a &on&e+t "tore tat organie" +o+-u+ dinner" at +#a&e" #i)eMAPI, a +re-Co#u!ian art !u"eu!5

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10& High/Voltage ight | 1 a&&

an" o' e#e&troni& !u"i& &on7erge at Ponote8ue, a year-o#d nigt&#u in"ide an o#d,"o!e$at out-o'-te-$ay &on&ert "+a&e5 (ere are tree %55", ut te &#u a#"o o"t"gue"t" 'ro! Latin A!eri&a and aroad, #i)e te (e.an !u"i& !a)er Brett on"on and teMadrid-a"ed %55 %a!iKn S&$art5 I' te &ro$d i" u+ 'or it, te turnta#e" "tay on $e##

 +a"t "unri"e5

SU#$%

11& 4looing our | 11 a&&

Board Monte7ideo" ne$ o+-on, o+-o'' "igt"eeing u" 41? +e"o"F to "ee te &ar!ingneigorood o' E# Prado, o!e to a 24-a&re otani&a# garden $it o7er 2,000 tree"5 Neary i" te Pa##adian-"ty#e B#ane" Mu"eu!, na!ed a'ter te 1t-&entury +ortraiti"t uanManue# B#ane" and dedi&ated to te $or)" o' *ruguayan +ainter" #i)e Pedro igari andRa'ae# Barrada" 'reeF5 (en $a#) troug te a+ane"e garden neary5 %onated y a+an in

2001 a" a "y!o# o' 'riend"i+, ti" !eti&u#ou"#y arranged &o##e&tion o' a!oo", &errytree", or&id" and ro&)" i" a ge!5

1(& Hearty $dieu | 1 '&&

;i"itor" in "ear& o' traditiona# a"ado", or are&ue", are in7aria#y "teered to$ard teMer&ado de# Puerto, a u"y o#d !ar)et +a&)ed $it "tea)ou"e"5 But in"ider" +re'er LaOtra, an inti!ate +arri##a in te Po&ito" neigorood tat "er7e" to+-not& ee'5 or te

8/9/2019 36 Hours in Montevideo

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!ain &our"e 'ro! 2@0 +e"o"F, "ti&) to &#a""i& Soutern Cone &ut" #i)e a"ado de tira a ty+eo' "ort riF, 7a&io '#an) "tea)F or o/o de i'e ri-eyeF, ut a#"o try "o!eting #e""'a!i#iar, #i)e &oto, a &ri"+y #a! tri+e tat" gri##ed on#y on ti" "ide o' te Rio de #a P#ata5

H5 #5$".S

8/9/2019 36 Hours in Montevideo

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1& Plaa "nde'endencia and Plaa Matri&

(& )a+7 4rasilero, ItuaingH 144@D &a'era"i#ero5&o!5uy5 8acinto, Sarand= 4D'a&eoo)5&o!U+age"Ua&intoU<022<0?14?45

3& eatro Sol9s, Re&on8ui"ta "UnD teatro"o#i"5org5uy5 .a rastienda )lu:, %anie# ernKndeCre"+o 1@?D #atra"tienda5&o!5uy5

-& Paullier y ;uan<, uan Pau##ier 12<2D +au##ieryguana5&o!5

*& Mercado $gr9cola de Montevideo, o"e L5 (erra 2220D !a!5&o!5uy5

6& 4odega 4oua, Ca!ino de #a Reden&iHn @?<D odegaoua5&o!5uy5

2& Museo )asa Vilaa=>, %o!ingo Cu##en <D 'ar85edu5uyU!u"eo-&a"a-7i#a!a/o5 Museo

?orrilla, o"3 Lui" orri##a de San Mart=n ?D !u"eo"5gu5uy5

& .a Facala, E/ido and Ceo##at= Street"D 'a&eoo)5&o!U#a'a&a#a5eredero"denyana515

& .a )uisine Secrete, 7ariou" #o&ation"D &ui"ine"e&rete5#og"+ot5&o!5 Mutate@

'a&eoo)5&o!U!utate5!onte7ideo5

10& PhonotheAue, Piedra A#ta 1@1D 'a&eoo)5&o!U+onote8ue5

11& 4us ur9stico@  u"turi"ti&o!onte7ideo5&o!5uy5 Museo 8ard9n 4ot<nico Pro+& $tilio

.o:ardo, A7enida 1 de Ari# 111D /ardinotani&o5!onte7ideo5gu5uy5 Museo de

4ellas $rtes 8uan Manuel 4lanes, A7enida Mi##Kn 401<D #ane"5!onte7ideo5gu5uy5

1(& .a Btra, (o!K" %iago @<D #aotra+arri##a5&o!5

.odging

(e ne$ So+itel )asino )arrasco and S'a Ra!#a Re+V#i&a de M3.i&o <4?1D"o'ite#5&o!D dou#e" 'ro! 2<F o&&u+ie" a #and!ar)ed $ater'ront ui#ding in te tonyneigorood o' Carra"&o5 %ating 'ro! 121, te +ro+erty $a" on&e a !eeting +oint 'or te$or#d" e#ite, o"ting +er"ona#itie" #i)e A#ert Ein"tein and ederi&o Gar&=a Lor&a5

6it 40 "+a&iou" roo!", rea"ona#e +ri&e", and an e.&e##ent #o&ation in te eart o' Po&ito",

te t$o-year-o#d My Suites Benito B#an&o ?@4D !y"uite"5&o!5uyD dou#e" 'ro! 1F i" a$ine ote#, T $it a "!a## ta"ting roo! eind te #oy $ere you &an order 'ro! agenerou" #i"t o' #o&a# ott#e"5