420 rigging manual

7/25/2019 420 Rigging Manual

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Rigging ManualClub 420 Class

Performance sailcraft 2000 Inc2555 DollardLasalle, Quebec, H8N 3A9Tel: 514 363 5050

eMail: info @ps2000.caWebsite: www.ps2000.ca


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Mast set upRemove the pole and unwrap thespreaders. Mount them in spreaderbracket with the thick side of theairfoil facing forward. Put the clevispins in from the top with the split ringunder the bracket. Remove theshroud retainer clips from the end,slip in the shroud and replace theclip. Put the screw in from the top.Both sides of the spreader areapped so the screw goes in fromeither side).Next examine the installation of theb halyard block. We may have used

a washer under the cotter pin tomake sure that the cheeks are heldclosely together to prevent the wire

umping the sheave. If you everemove the sheave be sure to put

back the washer. Also, examine theshroud and trapeze wire attachment.They are on the same tang asshown. A shrink wrap tube is then

placed over the whole assembly andheated . If you replace or disassem-ble, re-tape the area.

The mast has been foamed in thearea shown between the two dottedlines. This has been done to ensurethe watertight integrity of the mast. Allrivets in the mast are either closedend or are sealed with a beddingcompound after installation.

Mast InstallationMake sure all the halyards are looseand accessible from the deck oncethe mast is up. They are normally runin their proper positions at the factorybut do not try and sort them out at thispoint because they will be riggedproperly using the directions thatfollow.Make sure the clevis pin is in thesecond hole from the front. This is the

position that has been found to bethe most effective and it places themast in the position recommended

on the class Website in the TuningTips section.

www.club420.org/rigtips.htm

Set the boat up with supports undthe hull that will allow a person tostand in the boat without it moving

around. Stepping can be done bysingle person from outside the bobut, if the mast is in the partner anyou loose it, you will destroy thepartner!It is better to stand the mast up anhand it to someone in the boat whwill then position it over the step a

drop it in place. There is a verticagroove in the mast casting and thgoes OVER the pin.


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Position the mast in the partner andattach the forestay to the centre pinn the bow fitting. The mast can now

be released. It will fall back in thepartner but will not fall out. Nowattach the shrouds to the saddlesand tape up all the split rings. If youdo not they will eventually catch the

b sheets, spinnaker sheets andspinnaker cloth. We suggest youstart in the third hole down in the frontthe closed, curved side). There is no

magic to this position but it is a goodstarting point that gives a good feelo the helm. For more rake, take thepins lower. You will note that there is

a second pin in the top of thechainplate which must be removed toallow the shroud to pass. Replacethis after pinning the shroud as it is asafety device if the main pin happensto come loose (It happens!)

Running the halyardsBoth the Jib and Main halyards arepurple, high-load, Marlow Spectraline. Cleat the jib off on the port sideof the mast and the main on thestarboard. Tensioning them will bedone later in the rigging sequence.TheSpinnaker halyard is blueSpectra and is lead through a swivelblock above the hounds. We suggest

you rig it with the attachment to thespinnaker coming down on the portside of the hounds and the lead tothe skipper coming down on thestarboard side. This end is passedthrough the opening in the partner infront of the mast , then to the bottom

block on the side of the mast . Seeabove. From there it is lead straightback to the aft end of the centre-board cap where it can be cleatedoff. See following photo. The other

end is rigged, typically, outside thejib, through the guy hook, then to t

spinnaker head in the bag.The Topping lift is red Spectra apasses through a non-swivellingblock on the front of the mast. Masure the hook end of the line iscoming out of the front of the pulleThe other end goes down throughthe partner and then to the secondcheek block up from the bottom othe mast. See bottom photo, colu2. From there it is lead up through

the centrecase cap to the forwardmost Clamcleat on the starboardside of the cap.

The hook end, is tied off to the re-tractor shockchord that comes frothe back of the boat and up througthe fairlead in the partner.


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The topping lift is adjusted so that,when hooking up the pole, it will setapproximately parallel to the water. Itwill then be readjusted for the condi-ons after the spinnaker is set. Whenhe pole is not in use, the hook will lie

about 10 below the ring fitting.

Trapeze wiresPerformance Sailcraft do not deliverheir boats with trapeze rings unlessspecifically requested to do so ashere is a safer alternative available.The following photos show the rig-ging of the key balls for theBethwaite harness which does not

use a hook. If rings are used, thegreen adjusting line goes through theop of the ring instead of the eye inhe keyball system.The retractor shockchord is supplieda little on the long side to allow forany configuration. When adjusted,wrap the end tightly with tape, cutwith a sharp knife in the middle of theape and burn the end with a match.

First, pass the green adjusting linefrom the Clamcleat through thethimble on the keyball then back upthrough the cleat after passingthrough the black rectangular spacer.Pass the shockchord through thethimble and tie a VERY TIGHT,

simple overhand knot in the end ofthe shockchord - so tight that youcant pull it off the end! Then tie it offas shown above and finished below.This will prevent the thimble andkeyball from inverting. Repeat on theother side of the boat but experimentwith the length before you cut off theexcess.

Setting up the boomRemove the clevis pin from theuniversal square tube of the goosneck and attach the tube to thebracket on the mast. Once in plactape over the split ring as shown.Take the main halyard, tie it to the

outhaul line at the end of the boomset the boom level and tie off thehalyard. This exercise could also done after the mainsail is hoistedthere is not too much wind. Reevethepurple mainsheet,(which isshipped in the spinnaker bag),through the blocks on the boom ashown.


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Make sure that the blocks arealigned fore and aft then lock them inhat position. They usually leave theactory fully swivelling but there is asmall, flat, red locking tab which canbe pushed across the block to lock iton either 90 degree axis.The red outhaul is already rigged.After the mainsail is eventuallyhoisted, undo the line at the outhaulblock, pass it through the clewcringle then tie it off on the deck strapon top of the block. Leave a long

loop at the front end of the outhaul sothat it can be reached, and pulled on,from either side of the boom at theend of a reach or run. It is a littlestiffer on port tack but it works, par-ticularly if you put a little sun screenon the line!

Rigging the vangThe blue vanghas been pre-riggedand attached to the mast but it canstill be tricky to rig. Fully rigged, the3-part cascade looks like the picturebelow.

The boom should still be held up bythe main halyard, or sail. Attach thesingle block with the shackle (the firstpart) to the boom as above. This willleave a single piece of line, with ablock attached (the third part) comingoff the bottom block attached to themast. You will find a blue line in the

boat on the port side of the boardbox with its end attached to nothing

in particular. Pass this end througthe block on the third part and takback to the rear Clamcleat on theport side of the centrecase top. Inevent that you have to replace thisline, it is dead-ended at a deckstrdirectly under the mainsheet blocand held in place with the mainshblock fasteners. A simple knot is t

in the end of the line so that it canremoved without untying anythingThe photo below is a view of theunderside of the centrecase top.Note the spinnaker halyard exitbushing. You will see later that thisdeckstrap is shared with the centboard uphaul.

A close up of the bottom block anits attachment is shown below witthe first and second parts comingthe shackle and the third part off thblock.


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Rigging the jibThe aqua jib sheet (shipped in thespinnaker bag) is supplied as acontinuous sheet which can be cutor rigged to provide individualsheets. We suggest it be attachedas shown below with a clove hitchthrough the cringle. Mark the centreof the sheet before starting.

Attach the jib luff wire to the rear pinposition and attach the halyardshackle to the head of the jib. Youwill notice when you first attach yourib that the jib luff is tighter than the jibwire which means that the luff cloth

will be under tension when the jibhalyard is tightened. You may notwant this!

Tensioning the jibIf it is not already reeved, pass theend of the halyard through the cheekblock at the bottom of the mast on

the port side then back up andthrough the in-line block in the hal-yard as pictured below.Take the line back down and pass it

through the open space in the centreof the cleat.From there, take it back to the in-lineblock and pass it through the becketon the block to which the bottom partof the halyard is also attached. It is atight squeeze but it raises the pur-chase on the halyard to 5:1 from 3:1and allows crews to get really good

tension if they are re-configuring trig, on the water, between races.

From this point, take the line dowthe cleat and tie it off. Put the tail ithe pocket of the spinnaker bag.The cloth of the 420 jib is seized tthe wire at the tack and tied off at top to the thimble in the wire. Asdelivered, tension from the jib hal-yard automatically puts tension inthe cloth of the jib and is equivalenhaving a jib Cunningham tighteneall the time. This is not normal in liair as it is preferable to have thecloth relaxed so that the draft is nopulled too far forward in the jib.Adjustments can be made at the of the sail by loosening the line anusing it like a Cunningham to relatension the cloth for the conditionsThe tensioning and knotting syste


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you use must be simple enough tomake changes fairly easily afterowering the halyard. The operation,and effect, of this is really no different

o the mainsail Cunningham - its justa little harder to do!

t is possible to reverse the proce-dure and permanently fix the top ofhe sail to the wire (like the old jibs)and have an adjustment at the deck,as below. The disadvantage is thathe skirt of the jib is not always asclose to the deck as possible whichs probably the most desirable

configuration.

Rigging the mainsailCheck that the top batten is properlyed in then thread the foot of the sailnto the boom and attach the outhaul.Fix the tack with the tack pin on theboom at the gooseneck. Hoist to theop then make a loop in the halyard

as shown in the following picture.Some Club 420s use a stainless ringknotted into the halyard but this is aseffective, particularly if you put sun-screen in the end of loop.Pass the halyard around the cleat

and back up through the loop.Tension firmly, tie off on the cleat andstow the tail in the pocket of thespinnaker bag

A word of caution in light air. If yohappen to use and old main with tack grommet and use this extrapurchase to hoist the main as highas possible you will OVER tensiothe luff (like having too muchcunningham) and the draft will be far forward for light air. The extra

purchase is to facilitate the hoistinand tying off of the main. It shouldNOT be thought of as a luff tensioing device. This is the job of thecunningham.

At this point there will be no numbers on the sail but you MUST pthem on before going sailing whithe sail is still clean and without t

many wrinkles. Placement of thenumbers is shown at the end.

Rigging the cunningham

The red cunninghamline is knoted with an overhand knot at one eand passed from back to frontthrough the channel in the Clamclwhere it is dead-ended. Pass it uthrough the cringle then down to thdead eye on the port side of the

Starboardside


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Port side

Systems, controls and

featuresCentreboard system

The boat is shipped with the centre-board installed. If you take out theboard you will find that the pin hole isbushed with an anodized aluminumsleeve glued in with Plexus. The pin

passes through a stiffening plate toprevent a point load when tighteningthe nut to make waterproof. When

replacing the pin, place a ring ofsealant around the pin on the insidesurface of the aluminum only. The

rubber washer will seal off any leakaround the pin.

The board is operated by a red uhaul and down haul, both usingsame rope. The down haul runs fra trip cleat (more on its operationlater) on the port side of the cen-

trecase top , through a fairlead to tongue of the board where it is knted then passed through the hole the tongue.

The line is knotted on the other sidof the board where it now becomethe uphaul. It then passes downthrough an exit box in the cap of thcentrecase.

mast going from front to back. Passt back through the cringle, beingcareful not to override the first passhen back down to the Clamcleat.This will give a 4:1 purchase but it willstill be necessary to put a loop in theend so that the crew can use twohands, if necessary, in heavy air

conditions.


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Once through the cap, the end isattached to a single block. A seconded line, which is dead-ended underhe back of the cap, is then passedhrough the block and back uphrough the cap to a CAM cleat. Theeason for this type of cleat, as

opposed to the Clamcleat is that theope will run free, unattended, once

eleased and the crew does not haveo hold it to keep it from jamming.

This picture shows the vang (blue),and the c/b downhaul (red), sharinghe deckstrap under the cap.The angle of the rope from theongue of the board to the exit box isne for sailing but it does not hold thep of the board firmly in the box.

When through sailing, wrap the lineonce around the tongue to be able to

pull the board ALL THE WAY UP.

Bailer operationA word about the bailer. We havehad a policy for 30 years of neverputting a steel bailer in a dinghy thatcan turn over because of the very realrisk of a severe cut , usually to the legor thigh of a crew sliding over theside. For this reason, the PS2000C420 uses the IYE plastic bailer andits operation may be unfamiliar.

1. Raise the bar of the swinging lock

2. This leaves the bailer unlocked

3. Push down the chute all the way

4. Raise by pulling up then push theswinging lock over until it clicks shut

Hiking straps and travelleThe traveller bar has been maderound to reduce the bruising resufrom accidental leg, shin contact.The padded hiking straps are heup to the traveller bar by an adjustable strap that is tabbed off on

Velcro. This tab can be used toadjust the height of the strap be-tween the bar and the thwart butdoes not adjust the overall length the strap. The pictures below shothe strap both open for adjustmenand tabbed off.

To hold the straps outboard, a linerun from the bridle eyestrap, undethe traveller, through the webbingloop then knotted. It can be adjust


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Above, the straps held in place.Below , the simple bridle system.The bridle is attached to a shackleat each end and the shackle isattached to the existing eyestrap.The height of the straps is adjusted

by the yellow hiking strap adjusterrope. One end is tied off at the deck

strap. The other goes through theoop in the straps, back through theeyestrap then is tied off on itself in abowline, Adjust this end of the linefor height because the other has thetopping lift shockchord retractorattached to it. See bottom picture.

The straps are kept tensioned andoff the floor by a shockchord loop thatruns from an eye on the transomdown around the adjustment ropeassembly and back up to the eye.Extra shockchord is provided so thatadjustments can be made.

Rudder AssemblyThe rudder blade is assembled tothe rudder stock with a pure spectradownhaul and tensioning blockalready attached. If the assembly isdismantled, make sure upon re-assembly that the tensioning linegoes over the plastic bushing at the

top of the rudder head and under theone at the bottom in front of theblade. To get the blade completelyaway from the head, the knot indownhaul (which ends in the rudderblade) or the splice holding the block,must be undone.Attach the rudder assembly as

shown. It may be convenient to plathe blade in the up position andsecure there by tightening the blalocknut which we have placed on port side of the rudder head. Thismay be reversed if the starboardside is found more convenient. Us

this nut to hold the board up whilelaunching and retrieving, loosen to

place the board in the fully downposition and re-tighten to remove slack in the assembly. Do not sailwith the nut loose. It puts too muchstrain on the cheeks and the bladand, besides that, you will lose it!Before sailing the boat check that

rudder retaining tab is properlyadjusted. When mounting the ruddonto the lower pintle, the tab shousnap over the gudgeon and upagainst the pin. However, thereshould be enough space to allow retaining tab to be pushed forwarout of the way, to remove the ruddwithout hitting the gudgeon. Thisspace should be about 1/16 in.Adjust using the screws - the holeon the tab are slotted.


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Fit tiller into rudder head and passhe cotter pin through the tiller, mak-ng sure that it also goes through theudder head on the underside.

Pass the line from the cleat throughhe block and take it back to thecleat. Once the boat is in the water,oosen the lock nut on the rudderhead, pull the line firmly tight and

cleat it off. Re-tighten the locknut.If the rudder runs aground or comesin contact with a significant obstacle,the trip cleat will open up as shown inthe previous picture.The trip pressure is adjustable butour experience is that it shouldremainat the minimum. If you wish

to check the operation, gently pry thecleat open with a flat screwdriver and

observe the position of the cam. Alsocheck that the set screw is firmlytightened. - the cam must be heldfrom turning when the screw is tight-ened. Do not over tighten or you willstrip it! Snap back into place.

Safety cleatclosed

Safety cleattripped

Spinnaker sheetsThe white spinnaker sheets areshipped in the spinnaker bag. Mo

crews prefer to use a continuoussheet with the two ends tied off atclews. The only disadvantage is ththere is always a sheet across thecentre of the boat. The sheet isshipped as a single line allowing f

this. It may be cut to provide twoindividual sheets.

Sail numbersSail number eights are suppliedwith the sails and can be cut to forany number. Place on the sail as the photograph, starting about 1 inbelow the second batten pocket, per Class rules and not closer tha2 1/2 to the leech. They must be high (as supplied).MAKE SURE THE SAIL ISABSOLUTELY CLEAN AND DRYBEFORE APPLYING.Also, try and keep your fingers offglued surface as much as possibYou must use the sail number allocated to you as it is linked to theAssociation number of the boatwhich attached inside the transom

420 rigging manual

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