53 - gelinaz.comgelinaz.com/sites/default/files/press/chefmagazine.pdf · each one of them (massimo...

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Blaine WETZEL WILLOW'S INN (Lummi Island - USA) Colombe SAINT-PIERRE CHEZ SAINT-PIERRE (Le Bic - CANADA) Claude BOSI HIBISCUS (London - ENGLAND) Magnus NILSSON FAVIKEN (Järpen - SWEDEN) Petter NILSSON SPRITMUSEUM (Stockholm - SWEDEN) René REDZEPI NOMA (Copenhagen - DENMARK) Paul CUNNINGHAM HENNE KIRKEBY KRO (Henne - DENMARK) Kobe DESRAMAULTS IN DE WULF (Dranouter - BELGIUM) Alex ATALA D.O.M. (Sao Paolo - BRAZIL) Massimiliano ALAJMO LE CALANDRE (Venice - ITALY) Albert ADRIA PAKTA (Barcelona - SPAIN) Andoni Luis ADURIZ MUGARITZ (San Sebastian - SPAIN) Massimo BOTTURA LA FRANCESCANA (Modena - ITALY) Riccardo CAMANINI LIDO 84 (Gardone Riviera - ITALY) Alain DUCASSE LE PLAZA ATHÉNÉE (Paris - FRANCE) Fulvio PIERANGELINI HOTEL DE RUSSIE (Rome - ITALY) Jock ZONFRILLO ORANA (Adelaide - AUSTRALIA) Daniel PATTERSON COI (San Francisco - USA) Sean GRAY MOMOFUKU KO (New York City - USA) Sean BROCK MCCRADY'S (Charleston - USA) Dominique CRENN ATELIER CRENN (San Francisco - USA) Danny BOWIEN MISSION CHINESE (New York City - USA) Alexandre GAUTHIER LA GRENOUILLERE (Montreuil s/ Mer - FRANCE) Inaki AIZPITARTE LE CHATEAUBRIAND (Paris - FRANCE) Yannick ALLENO ALLÉNO PARIS - PAVILLON LEDOYEN (Paris - FRANCE) Mauro COLAGRECO MIRAZUR (Menton - FRANCE) Carlo MIRARCHI BLANCA (New York City - USA) Ben SHEWRY ATTICA (Melbourne - AUSTRALIA) David THOMPSON NAHM (Bangkok - THAILAND) Mehmet GÜRS MIKLA (Istanbul - TURKEY) Virgilio MARTINEZ CENTRAL (Lima - PERU) Ana ROS HISA FRANKO (Kobarid - SLOVENIA) Yoshihiro NARISAWA NARISAWA (Tokyo - JAPAN) Bertrand GREBAUT SEPTIME (Paris - FRANCE) Davide SCABIN COMBAL ZERO (Rivoli - ITALY) Rodolfo GUZMAN BORAGO (Santiago - CHILE) David KINCH MANRESA (Los Gatos - USA) * List at present time, subject to change 53 THE GRAND GELINAZ ! SHUFFLE EXPLAINED TO ABSOLUTE BEGINNERS

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Blaine WETZELWILLOW'S INN

(Lummi Island - USA)

Colombe SAINT-PIERRECHEZ SAINT-PIERRE

(Le Bic - CANADA)

Claude BOSIHIBISCUS

(London - ENGLAND)

Magnus NILSSONFAVIKEN

(Järpen - SWEDEN)

Petter NILSSONSPRITMUSEUM

(Stockholm - SWEDEN)

René REDZEPINOMA

(Copenhagen - DENMARK)

Paul CUNNINGHAMHENNE KIRKEBY KRO

(Henne - DENMARK)

Kobe DESRAMAULTSIN DE WULF

(Dranouter - BELGIUM)

Alex ATALAD.O.M.

(Sao Paolo - BRAZIL)

Massimiliano ALAJMOLE CALANDRE

(Venice - ITALY)

Albert ADRIAPAKTA

(Barcelona - SPAIN)

Andoni Luis ADURIZMUGARITZ

(San Sebastian - SPAIN)

Massimo BOTTURALA FRANCESCANA

(Modena - ITALY)

Riccardo CAMANINILIDO 84

(Gardone Riviera - ITALY)

Alain DUCASSELE PLAZA ATHÉNÉE

(Paris - FRANCE)

Fulvio PIERANGELINIHOTEL DE RUSSIE

(Rome - ITALY)

Jock ZONFRILLOORANA

(Adelaide - AUSTRALIA)

Daniel PATTERSONCOI

(San Francisco - USA)

Sean GRAYMOMOFUKU KO

(New York City - USA)

Sean BROCKMCCRADY'S

(Charleston - USA)

Dominique CRENNATELIER CRENN

(San Francisco - USA)

Danny BOWIENMISSION CHINESE(New York City - USA)

Alexandre GAUTHIERLA GRENOUILLERE

(Montreuil s/ Mer - FRANCE)

Inaki AIZPITARTELE CHATEAUBRIAND

(Paris - FRANCE)

Yannick ALLENOALLÉNO PARIS - PAVILLON LEDOYEN

(Paris - FRANCE)

Mauro COLAGRECOMIRAZUR

(Menton - FRANCE)

Carlo MIRARCHIBLANCA

(New York City - USA)

Ben SHEWRYATTICA

(Melbourne - AUSTRALIA)

David THOMPSONNAHM

(Bangkok - THAILAND)

Mehmet GÜRSMIKLA

(Istanbul - TURKEY)

Virgilio MARTINEZCENTRAL

(Lima - PERU)

Ana ROSHISA FRANKO

(Kobarid - SLOVENIA)

Yoshihiro NARISAWANARISAWA

(Tokyo - JAPAN)

Bertrand GREBAUTSEPTIME

(Paris - FRANCE)

Davide SCABINCOMBAL ZERO

(Rivoli - ITALY)

Rodolfo GUZMANBORAGO

(Santiago - CHILE)

David KINCHMANRESA

(Los Gatos - USA)

* Li

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53

THE G

RA

ND

GELIN

AZ ! SH

UFFLE

EXPLAINED

TO A

BSO

LUTE B

EGIN

NER

S

5554

The rules are simple:

live my life for a few days, take over my restaurant when I’m away, accept my job, my daily routine, work at my restaurant, mix with my crew, study what we do – the ingredients and the techniques that we use.

And then, after three full days of prepping and sharing ideas with all the Boys in the Band (William Friedkin, 1970), do your own thing. Create an 8 course meal, - less a ying & yang balance of you and me, more a morphing of our two inner personalities.

Indeed, let’s swap identities. BE ME, when I’ll be somewhere else busy/busy being someone else. Steal “my me”.

Of course, don’t get too wasted if you go out with the team after service.

Behave as a gent or lady. Please don’t wake up the wife/husband/kids when you get back home (mine!) late at night.

And remember to water the plants, walk the dog and help with the school run. When I’m away, try to avoid burning down my kitchen you fucking bastard, otherwise I’ll tear you up into tiny, weany little pieces with my bare hands next time we catch up.

Love you mate, by the way.Don’t be a dickhead, life is too short

to carry on like Beavis & Butthead.

‘Lucy is going to kill me but…hey, WTF! Let’s do it!’

grins frenchie, Claude Bosi, from London’s Hibiscus restaurant over the

phone. ‘Anyway, who cares? Even if she is pissed off, I’ll be at the other side of

the world. Know what? I’ll leave the keys of my flat and those of the

motorbike at the restaurant reception and prepare the guest room before

boarding the plane’.

Welcome to the Grand GELINAZ ! Shuffle – the biggest party since Ang Lee’s wife

swap in ‘Ice Storm’ (1997) starring Sigourney Weaver & Kevin Kline. Andrea Petrini

gives the low down ...

© Claudia Gannon 2013

Claude Bosi

Andrea Petrini

56 57

Hey, is that why even Alain Ducasse & Yannick Alleno, on top of the miles they earn jet-setting around the world all year long, have now got out their Frequent Flyer GELINAZ ! Platinum Card ready for use?

Life can be miserably predictable. Most of all, in the hierarchic class society of the kitchen. Day in, day out, you breathe the same air. You long for something else, because you lack the vision of the bigger picture: the scope of a purpose, a goal that you can’t control.

That is the Shuffle idea: lose your inhibitions. Assume the Suspension of Disbelief. What if Ducasse ends up cooking – panning, wokking and frying all by himself- at Danny Bowien’s Mission Chinese? What a change the East Village will be from the Plaza Athenée!

Andrea Petrini / www.gelinaz.comJuly 9th 2015 is The Grand GELINAZ! Shuffle worldwide day

For GELINAZ! there’s no such a thing as an original recipe, copyright is dead. In the kitchens, at the stove…yes, creative communes are here to stay.

Like Inaki Aizpitarte, René Redzepi and Davide Scabin who bravely joined the GELINAZ!, dysfunctional family almost from the start.

Followed by many other mates: say Danny Bowien & Kobe Desramaults, Claude Bosi & Virgilio Martinez, Daniel Patterson & Rodolfo Guzman, Ana Ros & Bertrand Grébaut, Alex Atala & Blaine Wetzel.

Aim for the unexpected, never repeat yourself. Strip down the superfluous; go only for the essential. The stricter the rules, the more comfortable the chastity belt will be. Saint Ignacio of Loyola had it right: with no constricting rules, there’s no ecstasy, no unending expansion of the mind.

GELINAZ! is more that State of Mind: a truly organic Spiritual Exercise.

Raise the stakes, embrace the challenge, breathe in the winds of change… imagine a long, long dinner composed of the same dish, repeated over and over again.

How many ‘Veal tongue braised in Barolo’ can you eat? How many ‘Chicken terrine in veggie jelly’ can you take in? 20? 25? More than that?

When will you lose control of your taste buds? How long will your stomach resist? Risk everything; embrace failure.

It’s not just food: Repetition and Difference – that’s the artistic position; the philosophical stance.

Follow the kinglike proverb of the peasant (tasting white wine for the first time) ‘Lick the ass of the sweating donkey’, as the starting point for your brand new dish.

That is: step into the unknown, never take anything for granted. Transform a spiritual retreat in Tuscany into a boccaccian orgy of bread and roses, of tripe and hog butt.

That’s exactly where and when, last year, mad cartoon-faced Blaine Wetzel came up from Willows’ Inn in Lummi Island with this crazy idea.

So, don’t shoot the piano player. Just blame Blaine. He’s the one who, at the end of a long, hot and sweaty summer

afternoon, raised his hand and threw the dice like a missile:

That’s what GELINAZ ! is for: to shake up the ghost in the machine and scribble down the unpredictable on top of Today’s Specials.

GELINAZ ! is a band, a gang : a ‘band-gang’ of chefs.For chefs only. Functioning with a little help from some friends who come along

the way. Spice it up, open the closet, step out of the usual comfort zone. Everybody knows, it’ll be history tomorrow and could even be published in the

next Larousse. It all started in 2005, with Italian Maestro, Fulvio Pierangelini (a pain in the

ass sometimes) who shared publicly a demo on a stage with his ‘Gollum’ treasured, secretly-kept classic recipes with a few other fellow chefs.

Each one of them (Massimo Bottura, Andoni Luis Aduriz, Petter Nilsson), under the puzzled gaze of this Medusa-inspired, long-haired chef, cooked up simultaneously, a personal version of the same recipe.

Remake/Remodel (Roxy Music, 1973), Do the Right Thing (Spike Lee, 1989): do a repeat, do a cover of the original dish. Scratch it, sample it, remix it, play the perfect DJ. Nothing is truth, everything is permitted.

And what if Yannick Alleno flies SAS to try and implement his extractions of juices and match them at Noma, with fermented seaweeds, beech-nuts and rose hips, while René Redzepi is away?

And while he is at it (at his restaurant, on his couch), shouldn’t he also warm up the baby bottle for the littlest one before the break of dawn? Mummy Nadine would certainly appreciate that.

The more we are, the more disparate and much less foreseeable the result. Walls Come Tumbling Down (Style Council, 1985) and hey….it was just about time.

But don’t bring the curtain down. The Shuffle is not over yet and Istanbul is already looming at close range. The all-encompassing, multi-layered experience. At once, Turkier than the Young Turks - of GELINAZ ! - playing Istanbul.

We’ll be there with an ever-changing posse, in the wake of art curators Ali Akay and Nicolas Bourriaud, our head-playlisters in a dozen or so artists, mingling their artworks with the GELINAZ ! badasses in their Full Monty and Sunday bests.

Pump up the Volume, feel the beat of Istanbul, seize its flavours, its moment. Occupy the Alselm Kiefer-like, monumental site across the Bosphorus.

It’s now or never to push the boundaries between cuisine and art; performing food and blurring the corpses of rotten identities. A transgender experience. Next step/next stop before moving even further away.

Beyond Food & Evil. Call it the GELINAZ! Paradox!

‘Why don’t we swap restaurants and life for 4½ days?’

Blame Blaine indeed. At that precise moment the Grand GELINAZ ! Shuffle was born.

Hold on a minute: what are we talking about here? Real cuisine for real people, or new trends for foodies?

No, we are talking about planting the seeds of ideas; taking things where they are not supposed to be.