activities reports 2014

Exploring new horizons

Petzl FoundationActivities Report 2014

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Cover photo: the new Aigle refuge © Pascal Tournaire

2014, a symbolic year

The Aigle refuge was the first project of the Petzl Foundation. It has finally been rebuilt while respecting its long history and its exceptional alpine location. This is a powerful symbol for our foundation. This project demonstrated that having strong convictions and sharing them can overcome seemingly insurmountable obstacles (see pages 6 and 7).

2015 will be the year of our commitment to the subject of "near misses", a collaborative project that will provide all those who enjoy sporting activities in the mountains with the opportunity to communicate on extreme situations that could have led to serious accidents. By gaining a deeper understanding of situations that result in accidents, we believe that we can enhance our approach to prevention, improve training course content and also develop better equipment. This would undoubtedly benefit every member of our mountain and vertical rope access communities.

Since 2006, our foundation has supported and funded over one hundred projects around the world. In total, we raised more than three million euros to serve the mountain communities and the vertical world - the individuals who have allowed our company to grow and prosper. In return, the commitment of the Petzl Foundation to serve the public interest contributes to the image of the Petzl Group and helps preserve the jobs of the men and women who work for our company.

In addition, hundreds of volunteers are involved in all these projects.

Most of the time, the involvement of our foundation is low-profile, yet we remain highly motivated by the desire to make positive and meaningful changes within our communities.

I have every confidence that we will succeed.

Paul Petzl, President

Nine years in service of the public interest ............................................................4 - 5

A new Aigle refuge ............................................................................................6 - 7

Reducing the risks in date palms .........................................................................8 - 9

Understanding mountain sports accidents ........................................................10 - 11

Scientific exploration in Papuan karsts ............................................................12 - 13

Training in India and Jordan with the UIAA ............................................................... 14

Silos Climbing Park in Santiago, Chile ..................................................................... 15

Rescue training in Greece ..................................................................................... 16

Dialogue between mountain and science ................................................................ 17

Seeking the last lost worlds ..............................................................................18-19

Meetings in the canyons ........................................................................................ 20

Outdoor business giving back to the outdoors .......................................................... 21

The sharing of mountains ...................................................................................... 22

Adaptive climbing with Paradox Sports ................................................................... 23

Fixed Anchors – Yesterday and Today ..................................................................... 24

Developping telecommunications ............................................................................ 25

Sustainable practices on mountains ....................................................................... 26

Encouraging free access to climbing sites ................................................................ 27

Other projets supported in 2014 .....................................................................28 - 30

Submit a project .................................................................................................. 31

Key figures ...................................................................................................32 - 33

In the words of the foundation trustees ............................................................34 - 35

Contents

The Petzl Foundation

For forty years, Petzl has been designing vertical access equipment for recreational and professional use, providing technical solutions to help people achieve their dreams of ascension in daylight and darkness, while ensuring maximum performance and freedom.

Petzl’s corporate philanthropy has a long history in the USA. Paul Petzl, president and founder, gave this activity a boost in 2005 by creating the Petzl Foundation, to serve the environment that has enabled the company to grow and prosper.

The mission of the Petzl Foundation is to conduct activities contributing to sustainable development. Our priorities are education and safety in vertical activities, as well as research into a harmonious balance between man and his cultural, economic and ecological environments. The Petzl Foundation supports non-profit projects that work for the benefit of our society and in the public interest, most specifically in these three areas:- accident prevention and risk management training- preservation of the environment- scientific research

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Nine years in service of the public interest

Get the latest updates of the projects supported by the Petzl Foundation on www.petzl-foundation.org

2002At the origin of the Petzl Foundation, the preservation of Castletown tower

Corporate philanthropy is a well esta-blished practice in the United States. In 2002, a land developer considered closing the access to the famous Castle-town Tower to build luxury homes. With the Utah Open Lands association, Petzl America organized a fundraising event and donated $ 10,000 in an attempt to redeem the land adjacent to the tower. Climbers and mountain equipment companies were immediately mobi-lized. In less than a year, the associa-tion had collected over $ 640,000 in donations. The land was purchased, and access to Castleton Tower is now preserved for climbers, photographers and outdoor enthusiasts.

The success of this project, initiated by Petzl, was the inspiration for the crea-tion of the Petzl Foundation in 2005.

Since 2006, the Petzl Foundation has supported associations and researchers working to advance mountain and verticality communities. Revisiting a few existing projects provides testimony of our commitment to serve those communities that have helped Petzl grow and prosper.

2006Into the heart of waterfall ice

From 2006 to 2013, a team of resear-chers from the Glaciology Laboratory of Grenoble worked on the formation, growth and collapse of waterfall ice. The objective of this study was to improve knowledge for climbers, as well as the scientific community. To better unders-tand the metamorphosis of the ice, measuring devices were installed in several ice falls under different geogra-phic conditions, including Chamonix, Samoens (Haute-Savoie, France) and Fairbanks (Alaska).

The collected data provide simple inter-pretation keys of waterfall ice and their conditions, as well as help in decision making for climbers. You can find the final results on www.petzl-foundation.org.

Budget: € 286,000 from 2006 to 2013

2007A handbook for mountain clubs

Since 2013, the International Mountai-neering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) has had a mountain technical hand-book, specifically developped for trip leaders and instructors of clubs and federations. Plentifully illustrated by the Petzl technical drawings, this 340-page book is the result of collaboration between the UIAA, various alpine clubs, and Petzl technicians. It provides reliable solutions for alpine hiking, climbing, via ferrata and mountaineering. This "Alpine Skills Summer" handbook is available in French and English from affiliated alpine clubs of the UIAA.

Budget: € 164,000 from 2007 to 2014

2009How can we reduce accidents in the Goûter couloir on Mont Blanc?

From 1990 to 2011, 74 people died and 180 were injured in the Goûter couloir, on the normal route of Mont Blanc. The route across the Goûter accounts for 15% of all mountainee-ring deaths in France and creates a bad image of mountain activities. The Petzl Foundation launched several studies designed clearly to illustrate the dangers of the normal route to the summit. We now want to open the discussion on practical solutions to reduce exposure to hazards, without altering the mountain.

Budget: € 136,000 from 2009 to 2014

Core drilling in the Nuit Blanche waterfall, Mont Blanc range.

2012Protection of the Redrock desert in Canyonlands National Park (Utah)

As he walked down the narrow Blue John Canyon, Aron Ralston's right hand was crushed by a boulder which was accidentally dislodged. Trapped in the canyon for more than five days, Aron realized that his only chance of survival was to amputate his arm to free himself from the rock. He revealed his ordeal in his autobiography "Between a Rock and a Hard Place", adapted for the film "127 hours" directed by Danny Boyle in 2010.

Aron wanted to put his new notoriety to the service of protecting this emblematic place of climbing and canyoning.

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of this Summer Alpine-Skills Handbook was translated by the:

BASIC KNOWLEDGE P. 3

A. ENVIRONMENT �� 51� Natural Environment �� 72� Meteorology ��233� Orientation ��43

B. LEADING A GROUP ��711� Group Management ��732� Decision-Making ��77

C. ADAPTING TO THE ENVIRONMENT ��851� Nutrition and hydration ��872� Cold ��913� Altitude ��994� Lightning �� 1035� Sun �� 107

D. RESCUE �� 1091� Protect, Call, Care �� 1112� Evacuating an injured person�� 1253� First-aid kit �� 131

ALPINE HIKING P. 1331� Equipment �� 1352� Mountain travel �� 1393� Alpine trekking hygiene �� 1494� Alpine hiking grades �� 1555� Managing and leading a trek �� 1596� Evaluation �� 169

CLIMBING P. 1711� Equipment �� 1732� Tying in �� 1873� Single-pitch routes�� 2014� The belay station �� 2135� Multi-pitch routes �� 2256� Rappelling �� 2317� Tips and troubleshooting �� 2418� Rock-climbing grades �� 2599� Evaluation �� 261

ALPINISM P. 2651� Equipment �� 2672� Roping up �� 2713� Climbing �� 2794� Belay stations on snow and ice �� 2955� Crevasse rescue �� 3056� Tips and troubleshooting �� 3137� Mountaineering grades �� 3218� Evaluation �� 327

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In collaboration with the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA)Monbijoustrasse 61, Postfach, 3000 Berne 23, Suisse�www�theuiaa�org

Alpine Club of CanadaBox 8040 Station Main, 201 Indian Flats Road, Canmore, Alberta T1W 2T8, Canadawww�alpineclubofcanada�ca

With technical and financial support of the Petzl FoundationZI de Crolles, Cidex 105 A, 38920 Crolles, Francewww.petzl-foundation.org

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The English-language version was developed in collaboration with the Alpine Club of Canada

T his handbook is intended for hikers, climbers and mountaineers who wish to progress in the practice of their favourite activity by acquiring additional

knowledge and skills. It has been developed specifically as a reference document for trip leaders and instructors of clubs and federations within the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation� The handbook’s four modules focus primarily on summer activities: Basic Knowledge, Alpine Hiking, Climbing and Alpinism. Its goal is to put forth proven techniques that should be learned and mastered through proper technical training as provided by an instructor�

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The Goûter couloir in early summer.

Casteltown Tower, Utah, United States

With an initial support of the Petzl Foundation, he managed to raise $ 76,000 donated in full for the protection of a territory which is home to the climbing sites of Indian Creek and Fisher Tower.

Budget: $ 10,000 in 2012

Aron Ralston in the Blue John Canyon, at the site of his accident.

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In 2004, the initial Aigle refuge renovation project, which planned to demolish the old building, was strongly objected to by the mountain community. After 10 years of controversy, the Petzl Foundation offered to provide funding for a new architectural study. This met with general approval. This new architectural design retains the old building’s original structure, which is now protected by a larger wooden shell that preserves this unique heritage from deterioration.

In July 2013, the Marseille administrative court put an end to the long controversy surrounding

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A new Aigle refuge

Project partner: Association des amis du refuge de l’Aigle (Friends of the Aigle refuge) / Fédération française des clubs alpins et de montagne (French Alpine Club) - www.clubalpin.com / Funding of an architectural study commissioned to the Atelier 17C. Budget: € 85,000 since 2006

The Aigle refuge is now back on its rock at 3,450 meters, at the foot of the Meije in the French Alps. 10 years of controversy came to an end with an architectural project, funded by the Petzl Foundation. This modern design has succeeded in preserving the unique heritage of the site.

this legendary refuge, perched at an altitude of 3,450 meters in the heart of the Ecrins mountain range, in the French Alps. After almost 10 years of discord, the mountain community has rallied around this new architectural design, which has received broad consensus.

This solution met with almost everyone's expectations, both in terms of preserving the refuge and the site, while meeting the growing needs of the French Alpine Club. The capacity has increased from 18 beds to 30, and a larger living space for the refuge keeper was added. It respects the "spirit" of the original refuge, with

Laura and Louis, the new Aigle refuge guardians.

its unique central living area. The old wooden beams were reused for its reconstruction. After having been opposed to the demolition of the original refuge, the Petzl Foundation succeeded in bringing the mountain community together for talks, which resulted in this new architectural study. For the architect Jacques Felix-Faure, the Aigle refuge has become an example of a collaborative architecture process for his students.

In spring 2014, the French Alpine Club and Jacques Felix-Faure put the wooden structure of the refuge on display at the mountain development show in Alpexpo, in Grenoble. The

aim of this was to build the complete refuge (shell, cover, interior furniture), prior to its construction on site during the summer of 2014. Architecture students organized visits for the general public during the show.

A documentary in French about the refuge was made, with support from the Petzl Foundation. "La nouvelle cabane de l’Aigle", by Claude Andrieux, tells the story of its renovation.

View the timeline of this legendary refuge (in French) on www.petzl-foundation.org.

« United around this project, the mountain community has reached an agreement to preserve the symbolic value of this refuge. To preserve its original spirit, we have retained its simple rustic style. At the heart of the design of this refuge, is the single spacious room, where everyone eats and sleeps together.

This modest hut, perched high up in this magestic Alpine setting, reminds us of man's precarious place in the mountains.

If you have the opportunity to visit the refuge, you will be struck by the natural power of this site. Maybe it was this power that gave us the energy to rebuild the refuge. »

Jacques Félix-Faure, architect, Atelier 17C

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The architectural project by Atelier 17C respects the wish to preserve

as much as possible. The shape of the building and its interior were left intact. Only those parts of the original structure, which were too

badly damaged were not retained.

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The new Aigle refuge facing the Meije (3,984 m) and the glacier de l'Homme.

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Nine date palm workers from Ghar-daia made the trip to Kébili to present the "date palm harness" during the international date palm festival. They contributed significantly to the deve-lopment of this innovative safety solu-tion with the three partners involved in the project: Tazdait association, the BEDE association and the Petzl Foundation. The harness was desi-gned by the Petzl Group's customized products business unit.

After a series of successful tests carried out in 2013, Noureddine Ben Saadoun, Yacine Becis, Mustafa Cherifi and their companions became experts in the use of this new harness. Convinced by the need to improve

Reducing the risks in date palms

Nordine Boulahouat, Project leader,

BEDE association

Project partner: international solidarity association BEDE (biodiversity, exchange and propagation of experience) www.bede-asso.org, in conjunction with the local association TazdaïtBudget: € 43, 800 in 2014, € 61,600 since 2010 / Skills transfer volunteerism: 10 days

In 2010, the BEDE association, asked the Petzl Foundation to find a technical solution to improve the safety of date palm workers. A technical solution to prevent falls was developed and successfully tested by climbers of the Ghardaia date palm oasis in Algeria. At the end of 2014, this technical solution was shown to date palm workers in Kébili and Tozeur, in southern Tunisia.

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date palm workers' safety, they wanted to promote these new tech-nical solutions within their profession. Date palm workers are regularly the victims of serious accidents.

For three days, they organized demonstrations for members of their profession. They were assisted by Marc Seraphin, a Petzl Foundation trustee and Olivier Lami, a Petzl Group employee and skills transfer volunteer. Skepticism was quickly replaced by curiosity, as the date palm workers discovered how this new equipment could help them work safely, thanks to two lanyards and a clever adjust-ment system. When the workers are in suspension, they can release both

« Today one of the biggest problems facing date palm agriculture is the scarcity of skilled workers. This high-risk profession, within which acci-dent victims receive little or no compensation, attracts fewer and fewer young people. The layout of the plots and access to them means that mechanization is almost impossible. Date palm oases also provide shade for family vegetable gardens.

By improving safety, this harness enhances the economic condi-tions of date palm workers' fami-lies and indirectly contributes to the correct maintenance of our oasis and its biodiversty.

I also hope that it becomes a serious argument to convince insurance companies to provide coverage fo date palm workers who use this harness. »

ALGERIA / TUNISIA

Furthermore young people no longer want to join the profession because of the dangers involved, but date palms are a core crop of Saharan agriculture. Dates are widely consumed throu-ghout the Maghreb and the Middle East. The date palm also provides essential shade for the vegetable gardens of local populations.

For the BEDE and Tazdait associa-tions, the objective is now to find sources of finance which will enable them to manufacture and distribute this new harness.

hands to grasp a tool without running the risk of falling to the ground. This is a real benefit for these workers, who were used to working more than 15 meters above ground level, without any form of protection. Encouraged by their fellow date palm workers from Algeria, several Tunisian workers tried the harness for themselves.

Today, there is still a lack of safety regulations and legislation for date palm workers. However, the existence of a solution that improves safety and working conditions is changing attitudes within the profession. The question of cost is also a critical issue where personal safety equipment for date palm workers is concerned.

Another "low cost" solution

A harness made from pieces of rope and chain was also tested during this mission. This "low cost" solution, designed by two Petzl Foundation trustees, was based on the same principles as the more expensive solution. Although it is less comfor-table, the "low cost" harness can also be used to work more safely on the date palm. This "low cost" solution is easy to make and doesn't require the use of complex or expensive tools. It could be an alternative for date palm workers who are unable to purchase more expensive equipment.

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Accidentology of mountain sportsSituation review & diagnosis

December 2014

Bastien SouléBrice LefèvreEric BoutroyVéronique ReynierFrédérique RouxJean Corneloup

Crevasse rescue training.

We believe that information given about prevention, as well as moun-tain technical training, could be made more effective by using factual data related to the frequency of accidents, risk factors, and better knowledge of situations which typically lead to acci-dents. Many mountain professionals believe that better knowledge is the basis for effective accident prevention.

In France and elsewhere in the world, many organizations collect accident data. However, this data is often scat-tered, inaccurate and incomplete. It is difficult to use this data effectively. For example, how many accidents occur

Understanding mountain sports accidents

Since 2012, the Petzl Foundation has funded research into mountain sport accidents. Our long-term aim is to improve prevention. Due to the lack of accurate information and the absence of communication, several social science research laboratories have joined forces to launch an international study related to mountain sport accidents. A first research report was published in December 2014.

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during abseiling, belaying or because of bad weather? What was the skill level, experience, and composition of the group of mountaineers involved in any given accident?

This work aims to identify with accu-racy the actual danger and the chain of events that lead to any given acci-dent, by investigating mountaineering, canyoning and ski touring accidents. This study will go beyond the statis-tics and seek to identify the scenario types, the natural phenomena, objec-tive hazards, and technical issues that either led to a near-miss or to a serious accident involving multiple victims.

To share the findings of this study with mountain communities, the Petzl Foundation organized two seminars in Toulouse (February 2014) and in Grenoble (December 2014).

This first phase of research resulted in a report entitled “Accidentology of mountain sports Situation review & diagnosis”, and is downloadable on www. petzl-foundation.org.

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A few figures:

- The Mont-Blanc mountain range (French side) alone accounts for more than 30% of deaths related to a mountain sport in France, almost half of which occur during mountaineering. - The number of unharmed accident victims should also be taken into account since it represents a little more than a third (36%) of those rescued. - Most serious or fatal accidents appear to involve locals, who would be expected to have sufficient knowledge to analyse the risks adequa-tely. However, they are particularly exposed due to the large number of mountain excursions they undertake. - Among the victims rescued in the Mont-Blanc mountains, men account for 81% of deaths, and more than 80% of deaths in the Austrian mountains are also men. - Accidents generally occur during descent, in many cases away from the main passages considered to be the most difficult. - The so-called objectives dangers (falling rocks or ice, cornice break, etc.) are responsible for only 3% to 4% of emergency rescue opera-tions in Switzerland.- 59% of climbing injuries (on equipped cliffs) do not cause serious injuries.

Project partner: Multidisciplinary research group from the Universities of Lyon 1, Grenoble, and Clermont-Ferrand. Download the study on www.petzl-foundation.org.Budget: €14,000 in 2014, € 46,500 since 2012

Bastien Soulé, sociologistSporting research and innovation centre,

Université Lyon 1

« The main idea behind this project was that effective prevention must be based on a thorough knowledge of the different kinds of accident victims, and also the circumstances that cause accidents. Not only has our work added to the wealth of information currently available, it has also revealed the difficulties in analyzing the large quantities of data produced by moun-tain clubs and federations, trade unions, and government bodies. Our work has given a clearer, broader vision of the situation, which has not been available until now.

The input of the Petzl Foundation was beneficial in that it enabled us to share data, which is the first step towards identifying areas for improvement in terms of mountain sports risk analysis. »

PeriodNumber of expedition participants recorded

Number of deaths

Fatal accidentality

1951-1955 184 1 0,54%

1956-1960 222 1 0.45%

1961-1965 268 3 1.12%

1966-1970 241 10 4.15%

1971-1975 789 12 1.52%

1976-1980 734 13 1.77%

1981-1985 1 184 30 2.53%

1986-1990 1,974 31 1.57%

1991-1995 2,503 26 1.04%

1996-2000 2,505 34 1.36%

2001-2005 3,424 25 0.73%

2006-2010 4,451 27 0.60%

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An example of data processing by the researchers: fatal acciden-tology for Mount Everest rates 1951 to 2010.

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Project partner: Institut de recherche pour le développement (Research Institute for Development) www.ird.fr and www.lengguru.org Budget: Caving equipment (donation of € 2,500)

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Scientific exploration in Papuan karsts

For two months, the Franco-Indonesian expedition Lengguru 2014 explored the heart of the forest of West Papua (Indonesia). More than 70 scientists recorded plant and animal species living on one of the most beautiful and wildest karst formations on our planet. A team of cavers accompanied the scientists on their underground explorations.

The Lengguru region, is characterized by alternating mountain folds and isolated deep valleys. It is a little known "biodiversity hotspot", which is of great scientific interest. For millions of years, the Papua karst formations have evolved as a result of complex tectonic movements. These regions which are often unexplored because of difficult access, are important reservoirs of biodiversity and home to many endemic species.

Conducted by the Research Institute for Development, the Indonesian Insti-tute of Sciences and the Academy of Sorong Fisheries, the aim of the expe-dition was to better understand the

The karstologists walk alongside the waterfalls in the mountains of Kumawa. Scientific exploration requires caving skills to access underground rivers and caves.

adaptation process of animals living in these unique ecosystems.

A base camp set up in the small village of Lobo, in Triton Bay, was the first starting point for the scientists. After paddling up the Lengguru river in dugouts, the scientists explored the area, later joining the underground river passage at the other end of the range, thereby acquiring a better understanding of the hydrological system. The ichthyologists (fish specialists) were delighted with the collection of a rare species of rainbow fish. In the Kumawa range, the botanists made an inventory of rare orchids and other plants.

By the end of the expedition, hundreds of specimens had been collected, ranging from 100 meters below the sea, to 1,400 meters above sea level. These specimens attest to the excep-tional biodiversity of the Papoua karst ecosystems. The scientists hope to identify nearly fifty new species after DNA analysis.

Lengurru 2014 forms part of a long-term research program started in 2010. New expeditions focusing on ornithology, marine science and archeology are planned for 2016.

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Vincent Droissart, an orchid specialist, has collected some orchids from the forest's floor and some from the tops of trees.

These bats, often called flying foxes, are fruit bats. They can have wingspans in excess of one meter.

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Training in India and Jordan with the UIAA

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The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) assists the federations around the world with their training efforts. In 2014, India and Jordan have welcomed the UIAA instructors to reach the level of international training standards.

In August 2014, the Indian Alpine Club organized the "Climbathon", a moun-taineering training camp on the Bara Shigri glacier, located in Himachal Pradesh in the north of India. For three weeks, nearly fifty students trained by sixteen instructors were able to improve their understanding of clim-bing ice, rock and mixed terrain.Besides technical progression, students were also trained in navigation, risk management and rescue. Some have also climbed peaks over 6,000 meters during this time.

Students benefited from the exper-tise of the British trainer Ian Wall, sent by the UIAA. For the Indian Alpine Club, this is the first step towards the

Project partner: Fundacion Deportelibre / deportelibre.clBudget: climbing equipment (funding € 2,250)

CHILE

attainment of international training standards which are developed by the UIAA.

A few months later, UIAA's instructors were invited to Jordan, in the mountains of Wadi Rum and Wadi Mudjib. The tourism office wanted to organize training in trekking, climbing and canyoning for Jordanian trek leaders. Eric Lescarcelle, a Petzl employee taught the students canyoning techniques. The Petzl Foundation sent him as a volunteer, for a skills sponsorship program.

During one week, seven Jordanian students acquired rope progression techniques, moving in white-water

and were trained in group supervision. They invited their students to explore new routes to perfect their technique and discover new sites.

Silos Climbing Park in Santiago, Chile

Chile has more than two thousand unexplored summits and superb climbing venues throughout the Andes. Climbing and mountaineering have become increasingly popular sports as climbers discover the true potential of this magnificent mountain range. With the rapidly growing interest in climbing, the Silos Climbing Park is an ideal location to introduce the urban community to this new sport, teach new climbers proper technique, and instill an appreciation for nature and the importance of conservation.

With the renovation of the climbing park underway, climbers of all ages

began training on the silos and many new climbers were introduced to the sport. Guided by the belief that sports are a fundamental part of a child’s education, Fundation Deportes Libre began offering free climbing courses to inner city youth.

The classes focused on modern climbing techniques and proper use and care of climbing equipment, with an emphasis on safety and environmental stewardship of natural climbing sites. Adolescents of Santiago, Quinta Normal and Independencia communes benefited greatly from these programs. These

communities have very high teenage crime rates, drug use and domestic violence.

To support the training and education efforts of Fundation Deportes Libre, the Petzl Foundation donated climbing equipment to outfit their training courses. By the end of the summer, 80 participants had completed the course. They plan to provide training for over 300 new climbers in 2015. The young climbers not only learn about climbing and conservation, but also learn self-confidence, good judgment, and teamwork in a supportive environment.

During the 2010 earthquake in Santiago, many structures were left unusable for their designed purpose. Following this disaster, an energetic group of young architects, engineers and adventurers formed Fundation Deporte Libre, a non-profit corporation dedicated to the development of a public sports infrastructure by recycling abandoned urban spaces. One such project focused on a large silo complex located in the inner city which the group planned to re-purpose as an urban climbing center.

INDIA / JORDAN

Project partner: International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) / www.theuiaa.orgBudget: € 10,000 in 2014, € 58,000 since 2007 / Skills sponsorship: 7 days

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Evrard Wendenbaum presents his film on the Makay, in Madagascar.

Rescue training in Greece

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Les Rencontres Montagnes et Sciences (The Meeting of Mountains and Science) is an event desi-gned to present the wealth of scientific careers through mountain films for the general public. The first edition was held in November 2014, as part of the Rencontres du Cinéma de Montagne, a mountain film festival held in Grenoble, France.

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Dialogue between mountains and science

Project partner: Centre de Géologie de l'Oisans (Geology center of Oisans) / montagnesetsciences.alpes.cnrs.frBudget: € 3,000 in 2014

In 15 years, the Rencontres du Cinéma de Montagne in Grenoble has become a major mountain film festival: more than 15,000 people participate each year. For them, the peaks around the city are not only a decoration but are part of their daily lives. As Grenoble is also a recognized scientific capital, two researchers proposed to expand the programming of new movies to include science in the mountains.

Maurine Montagnat, a researcher at the Laboratory of Glaciology of Grenoble and also in charge of the research project on waterfall ice supported by the Petzl Foundation, along with Eric Larose, a researcher at the Institute of Earth Sciences, co-organized the first edition of The Meeting of Mountains and Science. They wanted to keep the spirit of discovery, exploration and eclecticism as presented in the films at Rencontres du Cinéma.

The goal was to open the screenings to other approaches, showing scien-tific discoveries to address a wider audience. The choice of programming primarily focuses on films highlighting the story of human and scientific adventure.

Seven original films were shown, inclu-ding two on the projects supported by the Petzl Foundation: Scientific Itine-raries into the Heart of Icefalls and Makay, Adventurers of the Lost World.

Showing young audiences how interesting the trades and scientific careers can be, while raising envi-ronmental awareness of the moun-tains, was one of the goals of this first edition. Their objective was achieved with two afternoon screenings which welcomed nearly 3,000 people, inclu-ding 1,500 young schoolchildren on Friday.

The Meeting of Mountains and Science proved their point and showed that a significant public may be interested in science-based films during this week of screenings related to the moun-tain. See you in November 2015 for a new edition.

Live demonstration of an exercise test simulating high altitude atmosphere.

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The students in front of Mount Olympus, 2917 m.

The young students from the moun-tain section of the Frison-Roche secondary school of Chamonix, had an objective to meet members of the Hellenic Rescue Team, a group of volunteer Greek rescuers with the civil security. Together with their four French companions (all were guides or professional rescue team members), the students went to the Pétrostrouga refuge, which is the first step on the ascent of Mount Olympus.

Accustomed to the handling of avalanche transceivers, the students conducted demonstrations for the Greek rescue team members. To increase their knowledge of the overall management of a rescue, a compre-hensive exercise was organized to locate five casualties buried under the snow.

The idea of this trip to the Greek moun-tains was developed by Blaise Agresti, commander of CNISAG (National Center of Ski and Mountaineering Instruction of the Gendarmerie), and Petzl Foundation trustee, with Denis Poussin, mountain guide and sports teacher in the Frison-Roche secon-dary school. The young people were also involved in raising funding and collecting equipment so that the expe-dition could take place.

The trip culminated with the ascent of Mount Olympus in excellent condi-tions with three Greek rescuer team members. Before leaving, the students gave their safety equipment (trans-ceivers, shovels and probes) to the Hellenic Rescue Team volunteers to enable them to perform their tasks more efficiently.

In March 2014, seven students from Frison-Roche secondary school in Chamonix, accompanied by four rescuers and mountain guides, achieved a ski ascent of Mount Olympus (2917 m), the highest point of Greece. This trip allowed them to meet the Greek rescuers of the Hellenic Rescue Team and expand their knowledge of avalanche rescue techniques.

Project partner: Sur les traces de Frison-Roche association www.biqualifdecham.comBudget: € 1,000 € in 2014.

« We could see the contrast between a country with great economic difficulties and the generosity of our Greek hosts, who welcomed us very warmly ! We were impressed by their determination and their investment in their rescue association. We found a strong solidarity, a bunch of friends passionate about the mountains. »

Clément Renard and Rémy Schmitt, students of the mountain section,

Lycée Roger Frison-Roche

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Seeking the last lost worlds

The adventurer Evrard Wendenbaum set out on a series of scientific expeditions to discover the last unexplored areas on the planet. His project called “Lost Worlds” aims to gain knowledge of the last remaining biological treasures so they can be protected before it’s too late. The Petzl Foundation is providing financial support for this project which brings together scientific research and conservation of the environment.

An experienced climber and mountai-neer, Evrard Wendenbaum has made a number of documentaries about ascents in some of the most inaccessible moun-tain ranges on the planet. Always attentive to the beauty and fragility of the places he visits, Evrard’s work focuses on the thou-sands of plant and animal species that survive in spite of the constant threats posed by human activity.

Since 2007, with the support of the Petzl Foundation, he has set up several scientific expeditions into the Makay mountain range in south-west Mada-gascar. In December 2014, the Makay was given temporary protection status

The scientists gained access to the heart of the karst range by the Lindu river, which flows underground through the Matarombeo.

The Hydrosaurus, endemic lizard of Sulawesi, can run on water over several meters.

Project partner: Naturevolution association / www.naturevolution.org and www.lost-worlds.org Budget: € 10,000 in 2014. Additional funding has been planned for the next three years.

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by the Madagascar Forest and Environ-ment Ministry. Encouraged by the success of the Makay project, Evrard now wants to continue exploring these "lost worlds", to better understand and protect them. One or two scientific expeditions will be organized each year, to explore spec-tacular and often inhospitable natural environments. Often located in tropical karst regions, these sites have been preserved from environmental dete-rioration and have great potential for natural and archaeological discoveries.

In October 2014, the Lost Worlds project began with the exploration of

the Matarombeo mountain range, on the island of Sulawesi in Indonesia. Five scientists, accompanied by Evrard and his team, explored this challenging terrain which is home to a particularly dense tropical forest. This first expedi-tion led to the discovery of ancient rock paintings and pottery which are still being dated. Several rare species were observed in the wild, such as the Hydro-saurus lizard, as well as the anoa, the smallest bovine in the world.A series of documentary films will be made about these expeditions for public viewing. Evrard Wendenbaum will also give talks when he returns from his expeditions.

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« In this period of drastic decline of our precious and essen-tial biodiversity due to several anthropic factors, I think it's an urgent task for humanity to pres-erve the last natural areas that have not yet been affected or degraded. This is what the Lost Worlds project is made for.This is not just about modern exploration, fantastic adventures and great scientific discoveries, it's about saving pieces of our virgin planet which gave us life and which - I'd like to believe - will save us. It’s about our future!"

Evrard Wendenbaum, Naturevolution president

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Outdoor business giving back to the outdoors

Bringing the outdoor industry's resources to the organizations working to protect wild places throughout North America: this is The Conservation Alliance’s mission! They collect annual membership dues from outdoor industry companies and contribute these funds to conservation organizations to protect threatened wild places for their habitat and recreation values.

In 2014, for their 25th anniversary year, The Conservation Alliance granted $1.55 million to more than 40 organiza-tions for their work to protect special places in the United States, Canada, and Mexico.

Throughout the year, grantees protected 3,099,020 acres of land and 120 river miles, and acquired one popular climbing area. They supported the New Mexico Wilderness Alliance to secure designation of the Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monument, protecting 496,330 acres of federal land in New Mexico. In Maine, they supported the Access Fund’s successful effort to acquire Eagle Bluff, a 165-acre crag popular among climbers and hikers.

The Adirondack Mountain Club secured a permanent ban on oil and gas development on and beneath 700,000 acres of state park and state forest land in New York. The Cali-fornia Wilderness Coalition used their funding to play a key role in winning designation of the San Gabriel Mountains National Monument, protecting 346,177 acres of federal land in Southern California. Each of the projects supported is able to articulate a tangible end goal, like those above.

In addition to funding conservation work, The Conserva-tion Alliance supplements grants by organizing advocacy efforts on behalf of the projects supported. In 2014, they completed a range of efforts that brought business voices to bear on conservation efforts. Three trips were organized to Washington, DC during which outdoor business leaders

Project partners: The Conservation Alliance www.conservationalliance.com Budget: € 7,200 in 2014

met with members of Congress and the Obama Adminis-tration to demonstrate business support for conservation measures. Several sign-on letters and post card campaigns were also conducted to bolster conservation efforts. Each project supported demonstrates that conservation is good for the economy.

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Project partners: Mountain Wilderness France / www.mountainwilderness.frBudget: € 2,500 in 2014 (funding of € 5,000 in total)

Meetings in the canyons

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John Sterling, Executive Director,

The Conservation Alliance

« The outdoor industry has an inherent connection to our wild lands and waterways. These are the places that outdoor enthusiasts go for adventure, solace, and recreation. The Conservation Alliance was founded in 1989 by four outdoor companies that felt the industry needed to do more collectively to ensure that wild places are protected.

Now, 25 years later, The Conservation Alliance serves as the connecting point between the outdoor industry and the conservation community in North America. Together, we are working to protect the places that are cherished by outdoor customers.»

The Conservation Alliance board and staff during the annual board retreat, Eagle Creek Canyon in the Columbia River Gorge, Oregon.

Organized in partnership with the Rhône-Alpes Federation of Nature Protection and the Rhône-Alpes River Association, this meeting brought together about 70 people. More than 30 organizations were represented, including sports federations, trade unions, nature conservation associations, conservatories of natural areas, natural parks, representatives of the Ministries of Environment and Sports, etc. Over the weekend, the attendees took part in brainstorming workshops and canyoning expeditions.

The constructive discussions opened the debate on key issues, such as the high number of canyoneers on key sites, and how their impact on the environment can be assessed and reduced. To educate canyoneers, there are already guide books and topos, which provide information and suggest best practices to adopt.

In addition, the training of canyoning supervisors has been improved with a state canyoning diploma, which now includes a module on the environment. However, in the opinion of the attendees, new tools such as a "code of conduct" for all canyoning enthusiasts, and animal habitat fact sheets for equipment outfitters and canyoning supervisors should be created.

In October 2014, the Mountain Wilderness France association brought together people involved in canyoning and protection of aquatic environments for discussion and sport activities during a weekend. The goals of this weekend meeting were to get to know each other better and to work together to protect these sensitive areas.

After the debates and brainstorming workshops, canyon descents were organized for mixed groups which consisted of representatives of all the institutions.

This weekend meeting helped to review the impacts of canyoning on the natural environment, particularly through the critical analysis of existing studies. The attendees also shared their knowledge of best practices and existing tools in the field. This meeting, which brought together a large sector of the canyoning community, should enable more effective and environmentally-responsible canyoning site management systems to be set up in the future.

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"I had the chance to become a guide and mountain doctor. My social situation put me away from material concerns" says Hugues Chardonnet, founder of the association. "One day, we chatted with a friend about the injustice of vacation in the mountains. We realized that what our society called "recreational" had created a new border between those who can go on vacation and those who do not have the means. Poor people cannot cross the border alone. » This is how the 82-4000 Association was born, referring to the 82 mountain peaks over 4,000 meters. The aim is to offer a discovery of high mountains for disadvantaged people. Members of the association are guides or amateur mountaineers. As they are not in direct contact with people in poverty, they approached other associations such as ATD Fourth World (Act All For Dignity) to co-create projects.

The first stay took place in June 2013, with young people from the region of Paris. During the summer of 2014, six training sessions were held with groups of young people, women, and families from all over France. Five ski discovery or ice climbing trips took place in winter.

The sharing of mountains

Project partner: Association 82-4000 Solidaires / www.824000.orgBudget: Endowment mountaineering equipment (€ 3,800). A project also supported by the Insolites Bâtisseurs Foundation.

Since 2012, the 82-4000 Association organizes mountaineering discovery stays for people in poverty. By sharing the pleasure of being in the mountains with the most disadvantaged, the volunteers of the association also advocate the right to outdoor recreation.

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Adaptive climbing with Paradox Sports

Project partner: Paradox Sports / www.paradoxsports.orgBudget: € 2,800 in 2014, € 5,100 since 2013

Paradox Sports envisions a world where people of all backgrounds and abilities can pursue a life of excellence through human-powered outdoor sports, regardless of physical disability. Paradox Sports provides inspiration, opportunities, and adaptive equipment to the disabled community, enabling their pursuit of a life of excellence through human-powered outdoor sports.

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In 2013, the Petzl Foundation provided a grant to assist with the printing costs for an instruction manual for Adaptive Climbing programs, which helps individuals who have suffered severe injuries and amputations find a new life within a supportive community. This project began in 2007 with their first adaptive climbing clinic held in Washington DC based climbing gym. Since that time, they have developed their organization and designed adaptive climbing clinics that have been delivered throughout North America. Today Paradox Sports' mission remains the same: to foster adaptive sport communities nationwide that are built to inspire and improve people’s lives. The instruction manual provides expert anecdotes and lessons, as well as systems and resources for adaptive athletes, climbing wall instructors, outdoor guides and therapists. It is the bridge that will encourage climbing gyms and outdoor programs to include disabled climbers within their programs and facilities.

In 2014, Paradox Sports has worked with the American Mountain Guides Association to create a certification for adaptive climbing instructors. Sean O’Neil, a paraplegic climber and member of Paradox Sports, was the first to achieve this certification.

The organization has also lead climbs on Mount Rainier, the Grand Tetons, Ice climbing in Colorado, and a variety of outdoor and wilderness treks. Now, their goal is to create 5 to 10 adaptive climbing clubs throughout North America.

Because of these stays, most participants had their first contact with the mountains. Some had never left their neighbourhood. After a natural apprehension to this new environment, they began to trust the guides, the refuge keepers and volunteers who make the link with the moun-tain environment. Valuable relationships were created which helped erase seemingly insurmountable social barriers.

To fund its projects, 82-4000 relies on donations from foun-dations like the Petzl Foundation or Insolites Bâtisseurs Foundation. It also utilizes an original system to raise funds through the ascent of 82 Alpine peaks over 4,000 meters. "The members of the association have made the bet to ascend every 4,000 meter summit of the Alps," explains Hugues Chardonnet. "This is the dream of many mountai-neers. This gives a symbolic dimension to our project and media visibility to the association. Each ascent of a 4,000 is an opportunity to raise funds to finance training sessions."

To date, the members have climbed 28 peaks. Started two years ago without any financial ressources, the 82-4000 Association is gaining popularity.

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Nearly every style of climbing requires some degree of fixed anchor placement to safely ascend and descend technical terrain. In north America, sport climbing has continued to grow in popularity since its inception in the 1980s, which has significantly increased the use of fixed anchors. Today, the quality and safety of fixed hardware ranges from very good to abysmal.

Fixed Anchors – Yesterday and Today

Many of the most popular traditional and sport routes have bolts that are in need of replacement. Bolt failures have occurred and are likely to increase in number and frequency if they are not replaced. With this growing need for retrofit-ting old hardware accompanied by the rapid growth in new route development, where does one go to find accurate and comprehensive information on bolting techniques? To address this dilemma, the Access Fund is consolidating best practices for placing new bolts and replacing antiquated bolts and hardware. They have written and compiled an extensive body of articles and videos and made them available on www.accessfund.org\anchorreplacement.

The Access Fund has solicited input and feedback from highly skilled route developers and re-equippers. Through this process, they realized that the top level articles need to be written for a more general audience (i.e. people who may never place a bolt but need to understand the basics: how they work, that old bolts may be suspect, etc). They also learned they need to consistently encourage people interested in bolting or re-equipping to seek out expe-rienced mentors, as it is impossible to gain all the relevant knowledge and experience through a website.

Project partner: Access Fund / www.accessfund.orgBudget: € 5,400 in 2014

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Finally, they have organized the information so that expe-rienced re-equippers can quickly find the information they need. Through this website techniques for maintaining and repla-cing existing bolts are being developed, shared, vetted and improved. This information will make climbing safer for future generations and help preserve our climbing resources.

« It is critically important that the climbing community take responsibility for updating and maintaining climbing anchors, and do so in a way that preserves the rock and climbing experience for future generations. We can’t afford to wait for land managers to step forward or for climbers to head to the hills with drills and hammers, learning by trial and error. The Petzl Foundation’s support of our project is helping to make this vision a reality. »

Brady Robinson, Executive Director, Access Fund

More than two billion people in the world have no access to information and communication technologies (ICT), such as telephone and internet. This makes daily life more difficult, particularly in the developing word. Inveneo designs and delivers sustainable ICT tools to those who need it most.

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Tower climbing and work-at-height are critical components of Inveneo’s work in telecommunications. The technologies they work with require clear line-of-sight to operate, which means installing antennas on towers high above mountains, trees and other obstructions. Safe climbing is of great importance – whether by their own engineers or local partners who will carry on the work.

The Petzl Foundation has supported Inveneo since 2011 by working with Inveneo to develop a training program providing local technicians with the proper tools, techniques, and best practices for tower climbing safety, as well as providing equipment for Tower Access Kits to be left with technicians following training and initial installation.

Throughout 2014 Inveneo provided technical support during its ongoing Internet Now! project in Uganda and its Haiti Connect project. For example, Inveneo engineers and local partners have successfully completed Zones 1 – 5 of the network in its Haiti Connect project. This backbone comprised of hundreds of transmitters at 31 tower sites now provides a fully operational and stable network connecting 65 client centers in these regions of Haiti.

Inveneo has also experience supporting NGOs with emergency communications, such as the 2010 earthquake in Haiti. At the beginning of 2014, two engineers spent a month on the ground in the Philippines after Super Typhoon Haiyan hit. Inveneo focused its work in three areas: supporting the UN Emergency Telecom Cluster, providing local area network assistance to NGOs working where the typhoon hit, and supporting local IT entrepreneurs with rebuilding efforts.

Inveneo is not only interested in making a difference for communities around the world, but also forcommunities right in our own backyard - in San Francisco, California. In 2014 the team connected the Twin Peaks telecommunications tower with radios and antennas, to provide wireless Internet to select non-profit organizations and several San Francisco city housing buildings.

The Inveneo team has been able to use technology to make a positive difference in over 3,200,000 lives around the world.

Developping telecommunications

Project partner: Inveneo, American non-profit social enterprise / www.inveneo.orgBudget: € 5,000 in 2014, € 18,500 since 2011, including work-at-height equipment

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« Our relationship with Petzl is a great benefit to us, but most importantly, to our partners who are now about to climb safely and get the job done. Your donations are having a deep impact on a global basis as highlighted in our report. Ranging from Kampala, Uganda to Port-au-Prince, Haiti, and even to San Francisco, your equip-ment is helping shape lives around the world. »

Samuel Perales, Senior Field Engineer, Inveneo

Intervention in Ouganda.

Jesse Greater, cleaning epoxy off of new anchors on Darkness till Dawn, Eldorado Canyon, Colorado, USA

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Sustainable practices on mountains Encouraging free access to climbing sites

Project partner: American Alpine Club / www.americanalpineclub.org/p/sustainable_summitsBudget: € 6,700 in 2014

“Are we loving our mountains to death?” When you get a question like this, you have to ask, is this true? If so, what can we do about it? A good example is Alaska’s Denali, first climbed 101 years ago. Today this iconic peak is buffeted by user impacts, social challenges, and environ-mental threats – increased rock fall, receding glaciers and a changing climate. So too, are Mont Blanc, Mount Fuji, Kilimanjaro, Bolivia’s massifs, Antarctica’s Vinson, and even Mount Everest. Sustainable Summits is an initiative to take on these challenges.

The Sustainable Summits conference was attended by researchers, guides, mountaineers, parks managers, deci-sion makers, and thought leaders who came to share their ideas and solutions. To foster ongoing collaboration and a bias for action, there were 100 attendees representing all seven continents. This was a global event, as all sessions were live-streamed and are permanently posted online. The conference not only covered the universal problem of human waste management, but also included solutions for energy, capacity management, leadership/decision making, and working with local people whose economic livelihood is based on recreation. A special evening program “The Everest Knot” was held with a panel of climbers, guides and leaders from Nepal who discussed coping with rapid change.

A Petzl Foundation trustee, Blaise Agresti, who is a moun-tain gendarme and guide in the French Alps, attended the Sustainable Summits conference. He gave a talk about the issues caused by the growing number of climbers on the normal route of the Mont Blanc. In his talk, he focused on the dangers of the Goûter couloir, using research data taken from the risk study funded by the Petzl Foundation.

Supported by the Petzl Foundation, the 2014 Sustainable Summits conference was led by American Alpine Club members and Denali National Park staff who brought people together from all over the globe.

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Kika Bradford, Executive Director,

Acceso PanAm

Project partner: Acceso PanAm / www.accesopanam.comBudget: € 7,300 in 2014, € 33,800 since 2009

In August 2014, Acceso PanAm celebrated its first five years of operation. The Petzl Foundation has supported this group since its creation in 2009. During this time their efforts have been focused on two main goals: to further mountain access and conservation in Latin America, and to inspire and train local activists to develop their own organizations.

In Latin America, there are many threats to our precious climbing areas: hydroelectric dams, mining operations, unsustainable tourism and development, all have the potential to endanger climbing access, as well as the envi-ronment. Acceso PanAm members believe access and environmental conservation are two sides of the same coin, reinforcing and supporting each other. Access to climbing sites, when coupled with education, increases awareness, which leads to stewardship and, ultimately, sustainability.

Access can only be achieved at the local level; so orga-nized activists are essential to a long-term conservation strategy. A primary focus of Access PanAm’s work is to promote training workshops throughout Latin America. In November 2014, they held a three-day conference in Lima with attendees from Peru, Colombia, and Uruguay. As a direct result, Acceso Peru was created with the mission to “promote and maintain access and conservation of hiking and climbing areas in Peru.” As a first task, Acceso PanAm and Acceso Peru are jointly negotiating to improve access to Huascaran National Park and the conservation of the Huayhuash Range, currently threatened by mining companies.

These workshops are designed to provide a fundamental understanding of the issues, enhance the activists’ skill set, and improve their organizational structure. These meetings have proven to be the motivational fuel for activists and are the best channels to keep the organizations moving forward.

In an effort to strengthen their own organization, Accesso PanAm has been developing outreach programs. In September, they organized the second annual “A Limpiar Nuestras Montañas” (Clean Up our Mountains) campaign, a day of volunteer service focusing on the conservation of a climbing crag. Over 600 volunteers, serving 29 locations participated in this campaign in Brazil.

« The Petzl Foundation is a fundamental partner that allows us to advance our mission. The 2014 grant enabled us to organize a hands-on workshop in Peru, create educational campaigns, increase our outreach, and to inspire the creation of Acceso Peru. Together, Acceso PanAm and the Petzl Foundation are investing in the protection and better access to Latin America’s mountains. Let’s enjoy it! »

Roger Robinson and Ellen Lapham, co-chairs, Sustainable Summits

« For decades we’ve seen big changes in our moun-tain regions worldwide. Ice climbs have disappeared in Africa and rock fall has made many routes in the European Alps too dangerous. Popularity has made many remote places crowded, with no infrastructure to handle all who go there. The problems seem to be mounting. Roger and I believe that the best way to solve big problems is to inspire a great team and give them tools. The 2014 Sustainable Summits Confe-rence brought together those who are passionate about solutions. We thank the Petzl Foundation for their inspired support and encouragement. Our next Sustainable Summits - New Zealand 2016! »

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Other projets supported in 2014

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Directed by Mountain Coordination, the Mountain Citizen Meetings aim to raise awareness by asking what the future model of mountain develop-ment should look like.

In 2014, three meetings were held. In Chamonix, the debate focused on the Mont Blanc massif develop-ment, in connection with the upco-ming opening of the tourist resort of Helbronner, in Italy. In Grenoble, mountaineers discussed the evolu-tion of their sporting activities faced with climate change such as glacier retreat.During the International Festival of Mountain Trades in Chambery, mountain professionals, such as guides or refuge keepers, reflected on the evolution of their professions relative to the economic and climate crises, as well as the new expecta-tions of customers.

To download the Resolutions (in French):www.appelpournosmontagnes.org/rencontres-citoyenneswww.coordination-montagne.fr

Is there any doping on Mont Blanc?

In summer 2013, a medical study was conducted in the Cosmiques and Gouter refuges on the normal route of Mont Blanc. The objective was to analyze the urine of some of the mountaineers to learn about drugs which may be used to deal with the effects of altitude. The siphons of two urinals had to be modified to take samples.

The analyses were carried out by the laboratory of the French Agency for the Fight Against Doping and the laboratory of anti-doping of the Italian Sports Medical Federation.

This study reveals that the doping practices remain marginal among climbers on Mont Blanc. However, it states that the use of sleeping pills is widespread, yet we do not know their full effects on mountaineers at altitude. The detailed results will be released in the fall of 2015.

Protecting moutain guide families

The French association "Moun-tain Guide Families" has designed a document to inform mountain professionals on their social security and their insurance. Mountain guide families often face serious adminis-trative difficulties in case of accident or death of a professional in the exer-cise of his/her profession.

This booklet provides valuable tips helping professionals to set up a file including all necessary documents in case the worst should occur. "The subject is difficult because it raises questions about situations that one wishes never to experience, says Anne Noiret, attorney and author. Our goal is to help the guides and their families to anticipate difficult situations and help them to manage them."

The booklet is available in French on www.afgm.fr.

Young researchers rewarded

For the second year, the University of the Alps brought together researchers and academics in Megève, to debate in public about the Alpine identity. The University of the Alps' goal is to provide the keys to understanding the Alpine ecosystems by offering a three day workshop for exchange of ideas and sharing of knowledge about the mountains.

One objective of this meeting is to offer ten young researchers the opportunity to present their work. Four of them have been awarded and received the prize of the Young Alpine Researcher, supported by the Petzl Foundation.

For more information: www.alpesmagazine.com/universite-des-alpes

The Dudh Kunda lake is located at 4,630 meters above sea level at the foot of Numbur, Nepal.

Training for hiking in the West Bank

In April 2014, a training course for mountain trek leaders was organized by the Palestinian Association for Development of Mountain Sports. Supervised by instructors from the French Alpine Club, eleven students (five women and six men), from the village of Battir (near Bethlehem), Hebron and Ramallah, were trained in group supervision and navigation.

For these young Palestinians facing a difficult daily life, the challenge was to redis-cover the natural resources and cultural heritage of their country. Aware of the natural and cultural potential offered by the West Bank, some of them hope to become tourist guides. A second workshop will take place in spring 2015 for further instruction to obtain the federal level hiking instructor.

Study of glacial lakes in Nepal

The association Geohazards and Man (GDH) investigates the risk of glacial lake ruptures in Nepal, which could cause catastrophic floods, threatening local popula-tions, hikers and mountaineers. In 2014, they conducted a study of the Dudh Kunda lake. Every year in full monsoon season, when the risk of dam failure is the highest, hundreds of Nepalese pilgrims come to this area. After three weeks of work, the team has established a risk map of this lake.

In addition to these studies, the members of GDH work closely with the Nepalese Ministry of Environ-ment and universities in Kathmandu to develop a project to inform and educate local populations exposed to these natural hazard.

Among the qualified students, Sanabl Dwid is ready to discover her country!

During the summer of 2013, a study of mountaineer self-medication was conducted in the Goûter refuge, on the normal route of Mont Blanc.

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Research in the Cameroonian canopy.A project founded by the Petzl Foundation

in 2013, with EnQuête d'Arbres association.Projects must fall into one of the three mission categories of the Petzl Foundation:

> accident prevention and risk management training> preservation of the environment> scientific research

In addition to funding, the Petzl Foundation can give you practical assistance throughout your project.

How to submit your project:

Please complete the online application form, after checking that your project corresponds to our selection criteria. Return your completed application form to: [email protected] applicants in North and South America, please CC [email protected].

Our selection process:

After an initial review, a project shortlist is drawn up and presented to the Petzl Foundation Board, who decides which projects will receive funding. The Board meets on a monthly basis.

Present your project: www. petzl-foundation.org. See Tab "Submit a project"

Other projets supported in 2014The Petzl Foundation supports projects developed by non-profit organizations which take place in mountains or in any other vertical environment, are related to outdoor sport activities such as climbing and mountaineering, or are related to the professional work-at-height sector such as tree care, technical rescue and difficult access.

The Petzl Foundation does not finance:

- Projects proposed by private indivi-duals or profit-making organizations.

- Requests from public authorities or state delegations, except in the field of research.

- Profit-oriented, promotional or advertising projects.

Submit a projectInstructional videos for cavers

Within the French Federation of Speleology, the French School of Speleology (EFS) and the Group of Technical Studies continuously improve the content of training and risk management.

The EFS has chosen to use video as a teaching aid for training and Internet as a means of dissemina-ting knowledge. A first film on rope descent techniques is already online, and others are being finalized.

For the second phase, tests are carried out to measure the forces generated on anchors and cavers during normal progression, falls or when anchorage points fail. To get as close as possible to reality, these tests were conducted with volunteer cavers in highly supervised safety conditions.

The Petzl Foundation has provided the equipment, technical and human resources to execute these tests. As a first step, the data will be interpreted and the results will be provided to EFS graduate executives. All testing phases will be filmed and video montages will help in making teaching aids for training at the EFS. The first videos will be released late 2015.

Watch the video "Rope descent": http://efs.ffspeleo.fr/documentation/video/descente-sur-corde

Tests to quantify the forces generated on anchors and cavers have been made in the Petzl training center.

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Assess the biodiversity of rocky environments

During the summer of 2014, the Bird Protection League (LPO), an association which preserves nature, invited climbers to participate in a census of the fauna and flora of the cliff. The goal is to better understand the rocky environments of the Reserve of Partias in the French Alps, to better protect them.

The Petzl Foundation is committed to assist the LPO in protecting this mountain valley in which there are many outdoor activities: hiking, skiing, climbing, etc. The LPO also initiated a dialogue with the climbers to better understand their activities and thus to achieve regulatory proposals that are fair and accepted by all.

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The Petzl Foundation’s accounts are administered by the Petzl Group’s accounting department.The accounts are audited annually by CCI CONSEILS in Lyon.

YEAR 2014 After the first operating cycle from 2005 to 2010, then from 2011 to 2013, the Petzl Foundation was extended for an additional five-year cycle (2014-2018), testifying to the commitment of the Petzl group and its foundation to the vertical community.

Key figures

Fund utilization in 2014: € 405,869

Project grant distribution in 2014: € 305,991

General administration: € 99,878

Projects: € 305,991

PROJECTS SUPPORTED IN 2014In 2014, 47 projects were supported, including 17 which received over € 5,000 each.

Since 2006, the foundation has created, supported and funded more than 100 public interest projects throughout the world, representing a contribution of more than 3.1 million euros, of which € 2,186,000 have been spent directly on project grants.

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Environment: € 76,230

Risk prevention and education:€ 115,135

Research: € 81,556

Other projects: € 33,070

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1 - Sustainable Summits conference 2 - The Conservation Alliance3 - Acceso PanAm4 - Aigle refuge5 - Lost World6 - Inveneo7 - Alpine Near Miss Survey8 - Access Fund9 - Famille de Guides Association10 - Mountain training with UIAA11 - Date palm workers in Algeria12 - Medical study with FFCAM13 - University of the Alps14 - Mountain accidents study15 - Study of glacial lakes in Nepal16 - Multiple small projets17 - Coordination Montagne

2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 2011 2012 2013 2014

Income in € 451 114 311 910 398 239 283 357 337 542 401 433 351 917 351 232 352 165 Split

Project contributions 43 420 138 182 144 528 138 203 89 729 133 005 174 633 195 882 197 756 49 %

Other projects costs 38 608 110 363 147 227 84 836 63 781 37 646 42 926 47 382 74 438 18 %

Taxes 569 588 886 794 677 401 412 419 505 0 %

Salaries 64 655 120 599 166 506 177 031 182 311 112 463 111 223 112 963 131 530 33 %

Amortization 1 647 3 599 6 930 3 304 2 400 6 117 5 600 2 462 1 640 0 %

Profit / loss 0 28 0 143 55 976 3 0 0 0 %

Total uses 148 899 373 359 466 077 404 311 338 953 290 608 334 796 359 108 405 869

Net profit 302 215 - 61 449 - 67 838 - 120 954 - 1 411 110 825 17 121 - 7 876 - 53 704

2006 / 2014 Split General section Projects

Project contributions 1 255 338 40 % 565 1 254 773

Other projects costs 647 207 21 % 371 658 275 549

Taxes 5 251 0 % 5 251

Salaries 1 179 281 38 % 523 311 655 970

Amortization 33 699 1 % 33 699

Profit / loss 1 205 0 % 1 205

Total uses 3 121 981 935 689 2 186 292

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The Petzl Foundation is an independent, legal entity controlled by a board of trustees. Sevenqualified experts and five Petzl employees provide direction for the Foundations strategic choices.

EXTERNAL MEMBERS INTERNAL MEMBERS

Paul Petzl has committed his company to serve all vertical communities. For 40 years, implementing his employees’ innovative ideas has guided his choices.

Stéphane Lozac'hmeur joinedthe foundation in October 2007.

Contact:[email protected]

Annual report production:

Authors: Stéphane Lozac'hmeur / Olivier Moret / Roody RasmussenEnglish translation: Stéphane Lozac'hmeur, in cooperation with Polly Brown Proofreader: Roody RasmussenLayout: Stéphane Lozac'hmeur

GENERAL SECRETARY

PROJECT MANAGER

In the words of the foundation trustees

PRESIDENT

Olivier Moret was appointed secretary general in March 2014.

Contact: [email protected]

Blaise Agresti, gendarme and mountain guide in Chamonix, is responsible for CNISAG mountain gendarme training.

Bernard Amy, cognitive science researcher, one of the founders of the association Mountain Wilderness France, mountaineer, traveler and writer.

Simone Allibert, chairman of Allibert Voyages, involved in promoting sustainable development though responsible tourism.

François Lemarchand, founder chairman of Nature & Découvertes, a long-standing supporter of conserva-tion actions via his two foundations.

Luc Moreau freelance glaciologist, Doctor of Alpine Geography, researcher and author of several documentaries and films about glaciers.

Éric de Kermel, Managing Director of Bayard Nature et Territoires, and Vice Chairman of the UICN. A man of convic-tion and commitment to man and nature.

Marc Séraphin, trek leader andrope access technician.

« Why did I agree to join the Petzl Foundation team?First, because it is a great way to defend mountains and mountaineers, and secondly, because it is a bridge between the world of industry and the world of mountaineering. »

« The foundation has helped to deepen my understanding of the mountains, connecting worlds and taking action. With each project, I become more aware of the urgent necessity to undertake joint action, which crosses our divisions and boundaries. We owe it to our children that these mountains remain alive and open to all. »

« Passionate about the mountains, sensitive to the environ-ment and its fragile ecosystems, I am delighted to be part of the Petzl Foundation, which is totally in line with my values. »

« I was very honored when I was asked to join the Foundation team. Suggesting the study of waterfall ice was logical. Today,

this study helps me during my course at ENSA, to provide answers to frequently asked questions from aspiring guides.»

« When I created the Nature et Découvertes Foundation, 20 years ago, I wanted all the people who work in the company to share beliefs beyond simply doing a good job. The Founda-tion has become one of the key sources of pride for all of our teams. I hope the Petzl Foundation will follow the same path! »

« The Foundation is a wonderful facilitator of communication.For instance, it has enabled me to enter the dangerous world of palm tree farming and help those people work more safely. »

« It is a joy and an honor to be part of the Petzl team through the Foundation. Behind the Petzl brand, there is a sense of commit-

ment to a renewed relationship between man and nature and the mountain universe, which is close to my heart.»

Peter Popall, a German national, is the Petzl group’s current vice president, having held various operational positions within the group. He is the soul of our commitment to the vertical world.

Roody Rasmussen has worked for Petzl since 1988. Roody served as president and CEO of Petzl America from 1999 to 2011. He is very active in the field of corporate philanthropy and is currently the Foundation’s project director for the Americas.

« Working with the Petzl Foundation gives me the opportunity to team with other like-minded organizations to bring

forth creative projects that benefit the environment, and improve techniques and enhance safety for the greater

climbing community. »

« Access that seemed impossible has always been my favorite challenge. Today, sharing this with communities around the world is my motivation. »

Hervé Bodeau manages multimedia publications and corporate communi-cations within the Petzl group.

Chris Blakeley, is originally from northern England and manages the development of the Petzl Solutions network and also practical experimentation within the V.axess building.

« For me, beyond the Petzl company, the contribution from our foundation to projects of general interest around safety and development of vertical activities is really meaningful. »

« Supporting some of the most inspired projects worldwide is exciting, not only to see the benefits to the ventures themselves but more so to the communities involved. The variety and quality of projects presented to the Petzl Foundation always impresses me - and the commitment of their creators. »

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"I never thought that one day I could climb an ice wall!" At the end of 2014, a group of young people from disadvantaged neighbourhoods of Marseille spent a week in a refuge in the Hautes-Alpes, France, thanks to the 82-4000 association.

PETZL FOUNDATION

ZI de CrollesCidex 105 A

38920 CrollesFrance

[email protected]+ 33 (0)4 56 58 19 98

www.petzl-fondation.org

For North and South America, please contact Roody Rasmussen :

[email protected]

activities reports 2014

Documents