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LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLONLAND OF STUNNING DIVERSITY

Hervé Lhuillier, Château Fleur Haut Gaussens

AFFORDABLEBORDEAUX

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AFFORDABLE BORDEAUXLife is wine.

THE GOURMET SIDE OF BORDEAUXWines that pair naturally.

BEHIND THE WINEHubert de Boüard

LANGUEDOC-ROUSSILLONTerroirs that give their wines character.

FRENCH SPIRITSOf elderberry and St-Germain.

ORIGINE QUÉBECVignoble de La Bauge.

NEW ARRIVALSDetails on our specially selected new releases.

IN STORES

SEPTEMBER 3 AND 17 30 newly arrived wines.

CONTENTS SEPTEMBER 2015

ON THE COVERProducer Pierre Lhuillier enjoys a barefoot moment in the reflecting pool facing Trois Grâces Fountain.

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UPCOMING EVENTS• BORDEAUX WINE FESTIVAL – QUEBEC CITY – AUGUST 27 TO 30 • LES DÉLICES D’AUTOMNE – TROIS-RIVIÈRES – SEPTEMBER 4 TO 7 • FÊTES DES VENDANGES MAGOG-ORFORD – MAGOG – SEPTEMBER 5 TO 13• SALON DES VINS, BIÈRES ET SPIRITUEUX DE L’ABITIBI-TÉMISCAMINGUE

VAL D’OR – SEPTEMBER 18 AND 19• SALON DES VINS, BIÈRES ET SPIRITUEUX DU SAGUENAY–LAC ST-JEAN

CHICOUTIMI – SEPTEMBER 23• SALON DES VINS, BIÈRES ET SPIRITUEUX DE TROIS-RIVIÈRES

TROIS-RIVIÈRES – SEPTEMBER 25

DIRECTOR – SPECIALTY PRODUCTS BUSINESS UNIT – SAQMichel-André St-Jean

MANAGER FOR SPECIALITY PRODUCTS, MARKETING – SAQSophie Drouin

PUBLISHER – SAQ Johanne Morrisseau

CONTRIBUTORS – SAQÉric Bertoldi, Liette Chaput, François Couture, Maxime Desjardins, François Fortier, Pierre Lauzon, Stéphane Leroux, Martin De Lottinville, Marie-Ève Meunier, Julie Perreault, Isabelle Plante, Alain Smith

TVA ACCÈS INC. GENERAL MANAGER Robert Renaud

EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Catherine Elie

ART DIRECTORRenée Grégoire

LIFESTYLE EDITOR-IN-CHIEFJosée Larivée

EDITORIAL STAFFRémy Charest, Marie-Claude Di Lillo, Myriam Huzel, Pascale Navarro

CONTRIBUTORSKler-Yann Bouteiller, Bill Zacharkiw

COPY EDITORS Joan Irving, Donna Jensen

TRANSLATORSHeather Camlot, My-Trang Nguyen

ARTGraphic artistsBlanca Arellano, Christiane Gauthier

MANAGER DESIGN STUDIO AND PRINTDiane Gignac

PRODUCTION Luc Gauvin (Production Team Manager)Nathalie Skrzypczak (Production Coordinator)

ADVERTISING SALESSabrina Boucher – SAQ514-254-6000, ext. 5115

SAQ CUSTOMER SERVICEMontreal area: 514-254-2020Elsewhere in Quebec: 1-866-873-2020

PRINTINGTC Imprimeries Transcontinental, a division of Imprimeries Transcontinental S.E.N.C.

All correspondence should be addressed to: 1100 René-Lévesque Blvd. West, 20th Floor, Montreal, Quebec, H3B 4X9, CANADA. Telephone: 514-657-2320 [email protected] NEW ARRIVALS, published six times a year, is produced and published by TVA Accès Inc. (www.tvaacces.ca), in association with the following SAQ departments: Marketing; Purchasing and Merchandising; Communications; Quality Management; Sales and Legal Services. SAQ headquarters is located at 905 De Lorimier Avenue, Montreal, Quebec, H2K 3V9. CELLIER is a registered trademark of the Société des alcools du Québec. Any reproduction of articles, illustrations or photographs is strictly prohibited. Prices for products in the magazine are subject to change without notice. Legal Deposit: Bibliothèque nationale du Québec, National Library of Canada. ISSN 1911-2238. Publications Mail Agreement 40064963. Return undeliverable addresses to CELLIER, 905 De Lorimier, Montreal, Que. H2K 3V9.

September 20154

ew wine regions inspire romanticism like Bordeaux. Its most celebrated châteaux – Latour, Lafite, Mouton Rothschild and Petrus – are arguably more

famous than the region itself. Although most wine lovers know the names of these wines, few have tasted them because they cost hundreds, if not thousands of dollars a bottle.

The story goes all the way back to 1855, when in preparation for the Paris World’s Fair, Emperor Napoleon III ordered that the top wineries in Bordeaux be ranked. The result was the Bordeaux Wine Official Classification, in which the leading châteaux were ranked from first to fifth growths, or cru.

After 160 years, these mythical châteaux have earned their rightful place in the pantheon of the world’s greatest wines, which is why they remain excellent promoters of the region worldwide and are able to charge such lofty prices. Nonetheless, they now represent but a fraction of the region’s total wine production. Of the more than 113,000 hectares of vines in Bordeaux today, less than 5 percent are classified growths.

The vast majority of domaines in Bordeaux do not charge a small fortune for their wines or, for that matter, even have a château. Joël

Duffau, owner of Château La Mothe du Barry, laughed when asked about his “château.” “Here in Bordeaux, château is a commercial brand,” he says. “We have a house like everyone else.” Duffau’s wine sells for $14.80. Of the 986 red Bordeaux wines on sale in June at the SAQ, over 250 cost less than $30 a bottle, and 70-plus cost less than $20. When talking dry white wines, of the 107 available, about half cost less than $30.

This may come as a surprise to some wine lovers. When asked about the perception that nothing but expensive wines are produced in Bordeaux, Jean-Michel Garcion, whose family owns four estates including Château Tayet, notes that the cru classé wineries have done a lot for Bordeaux. “But what was once a small chasm separating the price of their wines and ours has become an ocean.”

Wines like La Mothe du Barry and Tayet are much more accessible in price to the average wine lover than are the cru classés. There are exceptional white wines made with Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle. There are red wines that show a restraint and elegance similar to that found in the region’s most fabled wines but that don’t require decades of aging to reach their peak. Sure, these “lesser” wines can be aged and

Bordeaux is a region, but it’s also two worlds: the renowned, luxury grands crus, on the one hand, and all the other châteaux, on the other – modest, full-flavoured and often less expensive than you might think. A glance at the region’s overlooked majority.

Beyond the wrought-iron gates that mark the stately entrance to the Jardin Public is a place to relax, sitting quietly or strolling, in the heart of the city. Elsewhere in the Jardin is L’Orangerie de Bordeaux, a restaurant where the traditional entrecôte bordelaise shares the spotlight with the burger, seen on an ever-growing range of menus.

FAFFORDABLE BORDEAUX

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may even need a few years to develop, but they can also be drunk immediately.

Where are these more accessible wines found? According to Katharina Woitczyk, communications director at Vinexpo, “Bordeaux is very multi-layered. Yes, you have the expensive cru classé wines, but if you look at the smaller appellations, you’ll find a myriad of inexpensive artisanal wines.”

CRU BOURGEOIS, THE PEOPLE’S CLASSIFIED GROWTHSIn the ranking system, the cru classé wines are followed by the “cru bourgeois.” Frédérique Dutheillet de Lamothe, director of the Alliance des Crus Bourgeois du Médoc, explains that though the term “bourgeois” might have the ring of exclusivity, in fact it has much more pedestrian roots. PH

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FRANCE 2018

CHÂTEAU LA CARDONNE CRU BOURGEOIS SUPÉRIEUR 2005, MÉDOC$26.20 11095121, 750 ML, 13% ABV

NUMBER OF CASES: 378

This former property of Domaines Rothschild, which in the 1980s brought it back to its former glory, La Cardonne is now owned by the Charloux family. A wine from an exceptional vintage, aged to perfection.GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, CABERNET FRANC

AROMASANIMAL NOTES, CIGAR BOX, LEATHER, UNDERBRUSH, OAK

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT

ACIDITY – MODERATE

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BORDEAUX VITICULTUREWine grower Andrew McInnes, Scottish-born producer of Château La Cardonne, observes that the people of Bordeaux are extremely proud of their winemaking heritage. Making his home on the highest slope north of the Médoc, McInnes appreciates all Bordeaux pairings – the traditional as well as the not so traditional. “Even a vegetarian will find a niche here. Not with something overly tannic, but there’s certainly a Bordeaux to go with bok choy, soy and sesame!”

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IN STORES SEPTEMBER 3 AND 17

AFFORDABLE BORDEAUX (CONTINUED)

“Cru bourgeois is one of the oldest vineyard classifications in Bordeaux. It dates back to the end of the 18th century and is linked to the vineyards surrounding the city of Bordeaux. The name comes from the word bourg, which in English means city,” she explains.

As the citizens (particularly the merchants) of Bordeaux grew wealthier, they bought up the best vineyard properties surrounding the city. “After decades, the wines from these vineyards became known as the ‘cru,’ or wines of the bourgeoisie. Within a century, they became known simply as cru bourgeois.”

According to Dutheillet de Lamothe, “Cru bourgeois wines were the first to be classified in Bordeaux, though this was not enshrined in French law. The term signified simply that they were the first in the region to gain distinction as higher quality wines.”

A list of the cru bourgeois wines of the Médoc was issued in 1932. It was used up until the early 2000s. Although a number of the original châteaux had disappeared by then, most remained and were still family owned. The government officially recognized the cru bourgeois classification in 2003. Of the 500 candidates for the classification, only 247 received it. This led to legal challenges by those who didn’t make the grade, and in 2007 the new list was abandoned.

In 2010, the authorities decided to stop giving a château a permanent classification but instead to require that it be earned for every vintage. An independent tasting panel was assembled to judge the quality of the wines and to visit the wineries. Those whose wines are considered to be of high enough quality are then given cru bourgeois status. Since the new

LA CO(O)RNICHE The immense terrace of La Co(o)rniche restaurant, located an hour away from Bordeaux, is set amidst the sand dunes of Pyla. Designed by Philippe Starck, who wanted to create a building both surreal and poetic, the property attracts scores of French and international patrons. Diners can enjoy fine food and wine as they watch the breathtaking sunset over the ocean.

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system was put into effect, about 250 châteaux have qualified for this status each vintage year.

HOW SUPERIOR IS BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR?There are 60 different appellations d’origine contrôlées (AOCs) in Bordeaux. The majority are small areas divided up between the left bank and the right bank. A number of them are home to cru classé and cru bourgeois wines, such as Pauillac, Saint-Estèphe and Saint-Julien, as well as larger appellations like Haut-Médoc, Médoc and Graves. But there are also numerous lesser-known appellations: the Côtes as well as the satellite appellations.

With names such as Côtes de Blaye and Côtes de Bourg, and satellite appellations like Puisseguin Saint-Émilion and Montagne Saint-Émilion, these mainly Merlot-based wines offer both exceptional value and early drinking windows while remaining firmly Bordelaise in character.

But perhaps some of the best values in Bordeaux are to be found in the regional appellation of Bordeaux Supérieur. There are seven such regional appellations, including Bordeaux Rouge and Bordeaux Rosé, but the rules on how the grapes are grown and harvested are much more stringent for those granted Supérieur status. The vines must be planted closer together than in the regular Bordeaux AOCs, resulting in lower yields and more concentrated flavours. The grapes must also be picked at higher minimum alcohol levels than for the regular Bordeaux AOCs. In addition, Bordeaux Supérieur wines must be aged a minimum of 12 months in the barrel.

These wines can come from anywhere in the greater Bordeaux region. Why are they much less expensive? Joël Duffau, who makes Bordeaux Supérieur wines, laughs and explains that the cru classé châteaux are very meticulous. “With what they charge, they can

COCKTAIL TIMESoirée Mouton Cadet Sauvignon Blanc, last June, on the rooftop terrace of the Grand Hôtel, Place de la Comédie. The evening was organized by the prestigious Maison Baron Philippe de Rothschild, and the hosts wore green in honour of the wine’s label. The celebratory cocktail featured Sauvignon Blanc, naturally, mixed with sugar-cane syrup and served on the rocks with a zest of lime.

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Mireille Segonne has lived all her life in the Médoc countryside. Maître de chai at Domaine Lapalu (home of Château Leboscq, among others) for more than two decades, she’s an unabashed lover of Bordeaux wines and a strong traditionalist when it comes to pairings. “There’s nothing like a local entrecôte to accompany wines of the region,” she says.

afford to pay people to look over every grape. We just can’t do that,” he says.

Because the grapes for Bordeaux Supérieur can be drawn from so many different parcels, quality can sometimes vary. “You have everyone making it,” says Duffau, “from large corporations to small vignerons like myself, who work organically and try to put out the best possible wines year after year.”

Sometimes, the way the appellations are delineated can result in exceptional wines that could be sold for much more on the other side of the line. “Château Tayet is 300 metres from the Margaux appellation,” says Jean-Michel Garcion. “Our soils are similar and our vines are planted at a similar density to those of many of the top châteaux. We also use rootstock that limits the amount of grapes the vine can produce, in order to increase concentration, and we age our wines for a year in 50-percent new oak barrels.” Sold for $19.65 at the SAQ, Tayet is produced in exactly the same way as wines that sell for ten times more. “I would love that, and it should sell for much more,” sighs Garcion.

“But because we are Bordeaux Supérieur, the market won’t accept it.”

Luckily for us. There are great bargains to be had in this category: concentrated wines that harken images of much more expensive wines, as well as lighter, easier drinking ones. Says Duffau, “My wines are for friends. They are feminine, with lots of fruit and great acidities. Wines of pleasure, if you want.” Although you can drink them now with ease, you can age them for a good five or six years. And for those who want to drink great Bordeaux without spending a week’s salary on one bottle, let’s hope people like Duffau and Garcion continue to make their wines this way.

RED BORDEAUX AT THE TABLE The classic wine-and-food pairings are easy to follow when it comes to red Bordeaux. These wines are called the “classics” for good reason. Younger reds, in particular those with a high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon, are ideal with red meats, including the richer and more flavourful ones like lamb and duck. The


SEPTEMBER 17

AROMASBLACKCURRANT, HERBAL NOTES, COFFEE, ROASTED NOTES, COCOA

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

FRANCE 2019

ANTOINE MOUEIX, CHÂTEAU LEBOSCQ CRU BOURGEOIS 2010, MÉDOC$19.95 12609905, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


In the Bordeaux region, a boscq means a high point, which indeed describes this château’s location on a gravelly hilltop that provides the vines with good exposure and drainage. GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC

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flavours work well together, and the fat in the meat softens the tannins.

With younger wines made with a higher percentage of Merlot, you can be much more creative. They have less tannin, sweeter fruit and a silkier texture, and so are a good match with white meats as well as spicier fare like ratatouille.

When red Bordeaux wines have some age to them, they begin to acquire earthier

aromas like mushroom, truffle, mint and other garden herbs. The tannins also become less drying, which means there’s no need to drink these wines with fatty red meats.

For a surprisingly good pairing, try vegetarian borscht (beet soup) with a five-year-old Bordeaux Supérieur. The earthiness of the beets is a perfect match for the mushroom notes in the wine.

PLACE DE LA BOURSELe Gabriel restaurant is a much sought-after address where food is served in an exceptional setting, either indoors or out. The building is a World Heritage Site, affording fabulous views over the reflecting pool and Trois Grâces Fountain – two iconic Bordeaux symbols. Everything here combines to make the square a delightfully alluring spot all year round.


SEPTEMBER 17

FRANCE 2019

CHÂTEAU HANTEILLAN CRU BOURGEOIS 2009, HAUT MÉDOC$24.00 11396101, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


Wine has been made for almost a thousand years at Hanteillan. In the exceptional 2009 vintage, this cuvée is a great value. It will please those who love a generous yet supple style of Bordeaux.GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, PETIT VERDOT

AROMASPLUM, ANIMAL NOTES, MUSHROOM, SMOKY NOTES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

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VEAL RUMP ROASTWITH COFFEE SAUCE AND HAZELNUT MOUSSE Recipe inspired by Miles Restaurant in Bordeaux

INGREDIENTS

Veal rump roast

1 kg (2 1/4 lb) veal rump roast,* tied in one piece with kitchen twine

15 mL (1 tbsp) butter

Salt and pepper

Coffee sauce

180 mL (3/4 cup) veal stock

30 mL (2 tbsp) espresso coffee

30 mL (2 tbsp) butter

15 mL (1 tbsp) sugar

Salt

Hazelnut mousse

250 g (1/2 lb) celeriac, diced

100 g (4 oz) hazelnuts, blanched and roasted

2 cloves garlic

5 mL (1 tsp) salt

2 eggs, at room temperature

A few mustard or arugula leaves

Quinoa salad** (as side dish)

* Rump roast may be found at your local butcher shop. Otherwise, sirloin is a good alternative.

** Miles Restaurant suggests serving the veal with a quinoa salad. Find the recipe at SAQ.com.

RECIPE AT SAQ.COM

STEP 1Preheat the oven to 175°C (350°F).

STEP 2Hazelnut mousseIn a saucepan, cook the celeriac, hazelnuts and garlic in salted boiling water for 20 minutes. Drain and place in a food processor. Purée for 3 minutes, add the eggs one at a time with the food processor still running, and continue for another 2 minutes. Set aside.

STEP 3Coffee sauceIn a small saucepan over medium-high heat, reduce the veal stock by two-thirds. Whisk in the coffee, butter and sugar. Adjust the seasoning and set aside.

STEP 4Veal rump roastSeason the veal with salt and pepper. In a large, ovenproof skillet, brown the meat in butter over high heat, about 2 minutes per side. Roast in the oven for 45 minutes, or when the temperature of the meat reaches 64°C (147°F). Let stand 15 minutes before carving.

STEP 5AssemblyOn each plate (warmed beforehand), place one slice of meat and a bit of hazelnut mousse. Drizzle the meat with the coffee sauce and top with a few mustard or arugula leaves.

SERVES 6Preparation: 30 minutes Cooking time: 1 hour 15 minutes

The coffee and hazelnut flavours of this dish go well with wooded

wines. And the Château Hanteillan 2009 was aged in oak, yet is

smooth enough on the palate to enhance the tenderness of the veal.

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Hervé Lhuillier is descended from four generations of winemakers. Since joining the family business 15 years ago, he has built a new chai and a new cellar, and also modernized the wine labels. “Now I want to reduce the Merlot and increase the content of Malbec and Cabernet Franc to add structure and finesse. Evolution is the secret to appellation longevity,” he says.

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Long the quintessential symbol of fast food, the ubiquitous beef patty has made the leap to fine dining. People no longer order burgers merely out of convenience. Today, they want to slow down and really taste them and also find the perfect pairing. In Bordeaux’s Saint-Pierre neighbourhood, the California-loving British owner of West Coast Gourmet Burgers and his Bordelais chef are convinced that the humble burger and a glass of Bordeaux are supremely happy in each other’s company.

BORDEAUX LOVES BEEFToo many people still think that Bordeaux wines are suitable only with elaborate dishes. But it’s a treat once in a while to open a favourite Bordeaux and pair it with something that you’ve just whipped up. At our house, hamburgers fit the bill perfectly and, along with them, the wines of the Gironde. Château Fleur Haut Gaussens, with its high proportion of Merlot, is smooth and supple on the palate, which is exactly what grilled beef calls for. The crispy bacon in this burger will break through the roasted notes in the wine – the result of barrel-aging. Now here’s a reason to hope that summer never ends, and to honour the slightly wooded aromas of the dark fruit in this Bordeaux Supérieur.

- Kler-Yann Bouteiller

HAMBURGER DEMOCRACY

RECIPE AT SAQ.COM

SEPTEMBER 17

EASY GOURMET West Coast Burger, in Bordeaux

RVF 16.5 WE 90

FRANCE PIERRE ET HERVÉ LHUILLIER, CHÂTEAU FLEUR HAUT GAUSSENS 2009, BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR$19.60 12574141, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


Highly praised by La Revue du vin de France, this château is a jewel of its appellation. And Bettane et Desseauve calls the 2009 a major success in this excellent vintage.GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MALBEC

AROMASBLACK FRUIT, RASPBERRY, LICORICE, UNDERBRUSH

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

September 2015 13


Not every bottle of Bordeaux can claim to be the favourite wine of movie stars. But Angélus has managed to create something of a stir for itself in the French cinematic world. Actors like Richard Berry, Pierre Arditi, Patrick Bruel and Catherine Deneuve are fans. Incidentally, the name on the wine’s label was inspired by a particular plot of land in Saint-Émilion where the sound of the Angelus is heard simultaneously from three different churches.

Even though the estate affords them a glamorous lifestyle, Hubert de Boüard and his daughter and managing director, Stéphanie de Boüard-Rivoal, show up every day for work, aware that success rarely comes calling without effort.

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His pathway After graduating from the University of Bordeaux, the future winemaker trained first with the legendary oenologists Émile Reynaud and Jules Ribereau-Gayon, then in Burgundy, with the equally legendary Henri Jayer and Denis Mortet. Along the way, he developed a scientific approach and a commitment to sustainable viticulture.

His philosophy Detail-oriented, disciplined and decisive, the boss of Angélus and La Fleur de Boüard (another family-owned property) has led several research projects aimed at improving growing methods and winemaking techniques. He’s also a sought-after consultant, advising some 50 vineyards, mainly in the Bordeaux region.

His wines During the 1980s, de Boüard turned to Michel Rolland for advice, which of course resulted in richer and headier estate wines. Since then, he has been harvesting his fruit a little earlier in order to enhance the excitement and elegance of his cuvées. They are complex and attractive, and very well show the characteristics of their respective vintage years.

BEHIND THE WINE HUBERT DE BOÜARD | BORDEAUX

AT A GLANCEIn 1985, at the age of 29, Hubert de Boüard took over the reins at Château Angélus in Saint-Émilion, a family-owned property dating back to the 18th century.

He has worked tirelessly to enhance the prestige of the estate. In 1996, it was promoted to Grand Cru Classé B, and in 2012, to Grand Cru Classé A – the highest ranking for Châteaux Saint-Émilion.

Covering 39 hectares (51% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Franc and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon), Château Angélus produces three cuvées: Château Angélus, Carillon d’Angélus and Numéro 3 d’Angélus.

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FRANCE 2021

DE BOÜARD DE LAFOREST & FILS, NO. 3 D’ANGÉLUS 2012, SAINT-ÉMLION GRAND CRU$55.00 12167019, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV

NUMBER OF CASES: 97

The third wine from Château Angélus (after the first wine and the Carillon d’Angélus) was first produced by Hubert de Boüard in the 2007 vintage.GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC, CABERNET SAUVIGNON

SEPTEMBER 17

AROMASCHERRY, PASTRY, PLUM, CEDAR

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

NICK HAMILTONTrainer, teacher and wine columnist

“I collect hundreds of Bordeaux, some of which go back as far as 1978. Their potential for improvement as they age is fascinating.”

JEAN-FRANÇOIS VACHONHead chef, Thursday’s restaurant

“I remain attached to Old World wines, especially Bordeaux. They’re so comforting, like a woollen blanket in winter.”

GILBERT LEMIEUXBartender, Toqué!

“The nose of a Bordeaux wine is incomparable, and a bit of aging will give it a dimension that I’m unable to find anywhere else.”

LESLEY CHESTERMANJournalist and restaurant critic

“I can still see myself in Margaux in 1994 standing by a spittoon, glass in hand, assessing the 1989 vintage. I had no idea it was going to be famous.”

Twelve noted devotees of Bordeaux wines share their passion.

CRAZY ABOUT BORDEAUX

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CIDRIK GAGNÉFireman and wine blogger (lecontemporaliste.com)

“Pessac-Léognan, Saint-Estèphe and Pauillac are my three favourite Bordeaux appellations.”

KLER-YANN BOUTEILLERSommelier, columnist and teacher

“My first wine memories involved a family dinner. My mother cooked the leg of lamb and my father looked after the wine. There, on the table, a Bordeaux Supérieur took pride of place.”

JEAN-LUC BOULAYHead chef, Saint-Amour restaurant, Quebec City

“I’ve always kept a couple of rare years of Cheval Blanc on hand, and the last person who tasted one, a 1982, was Vinton Cerf, of Google! He drank it with Quebec red deer and thoroughly enjoyed his meal.”

STÉPHANE LAJEUNESSEConsultant and wine blogger (totalementepicurien.com)

“For me, Bordeaux wines are symbols of elegance, refinement, balance, versatility – and proven value.”

ANDRÉ CÔTÉFormer president, Canadian Association of Professional Sommeliers

“No other terroir is as varied and vast or offers as much quality as Bordeaux.”

PATRICK DUPLESSISReal-estate development manager

“During my college years, I worked at the SAQ and had the opportunity to discover everything that the wine world has to offer. But I always went back to Bordeaux.”

SIMON JOBINSommerlier, Saint-Amour restaurant, Quebec City

“I’m a Merlot fan and therefore have great appreciation for the Saint-Émilion region. I recently discovered Château de Pressac, which has been gaining in popularity. It was love at first sip!”

ANDREA DOUCET DONIDAMarketing and social media manager, Gourmet Canada

“I was introduced rather late to the wonderful world of wines, but I think I entered through the main door: via Sauternes.”

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Languedoc-Roussillon

LAND OF STUNNING DIVERSITY

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Discover the region’s many pleasures – wines, cuisine and landmarks – with one of its native sons, Chef Stéphane Modat, who is now based in Quebec City.

he people are deeply rooted in their terroir, and you can feel it in the wines they produce,” Modat says enthusiastically of his native Languedoc-Roussillon. He brought those roots, along with a breath

of culinary fresh air, to l’Utopie, his first restaurant in Quebec City, and more recently to Le Champlain at Château Frontenac.

Born in Saint-Estève, near Perpignan, Modat deeply appreciates this attachment to terroir, the adaptation to the particular conditions of each parcel of soil. “Growers there are used to living with a very demanding terroir. And the wine is human scale.”

“Human scale.” That’s a compelling way to explain the almost dizzying diversity of Languedoc-Roussillon wines – which range from high-acidic whites to zesty sparklers to powerful reds made from both Rhône and, to a lesser extent, from Bordeaux grape varieties. Each vintner looks to his particular coteau, the soil type and microclimate, for the clues needed to shape his wine. And the region boasts some 225,000 hectares of grapevines, more than Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne combined.

The westernmost part, not far from Toulouse and Carcassonne, is home to the Cabardès and Malepère appellations, both well worth the attention of wine lovers. Influenced more by the Atlantic than the Mediterranean, these wines are dominated by Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon.

FRANCE 2019

DOMAINE MODAT, COMME AVANT 2011, CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON VILLAGES$25.95 12586011, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV

NUMBER OF CASES: 150 (6 BOTTLES)

Produced from the estate’s best parcels, this cuvée is a tribute to the traditional winemaking styles of the Roussillon. A wine made “the old way” – authentic and truly satisfying. GRAPES: CARIGNAN, SYRAH, GRENACHE

T“

A Roussillon native, Stéphane Modat appreciates the region’s wines, like those of Domaine Modat. “No relation, but he’s a good friend. I love his wines, especially the reds, which all share a distinctive style.”

AROMASBLACK FRUIT, COCOA, SPICES, BLACKCURRANT, OAK

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

September 2015 19


Along the shores of the Mediterranean, the acidic Piquepoul grape is a popular addition to Picpoul de Pinet, a refreshing white that goes hand in hand with the oysters and sea urchins harvested from the nearby Thau lagoon. Local white grapes are often a pleasant surprise. Grenache Blanc and Roussanne have depth and roundness, while Grenache Gris, Bourboulenc and Vermentino offer freshness, intensity and hints of minerals. Blending them produces a wide range of notes and accents in the wine.

LANDSCAPES OF REDThere is considerable diversity in the reds too, which are the expression of the region’s major grape varieties – Grenache, Mourvèdre, Syrah, Cinsault and Carignan – depending, of course, on the microclimate, soil type, growing methods, blending techniques and other factors. In Minervois, for example, clay soils and high temperatures on low-elevation slopes produce powerful solar wines. At higher elevations, the adjacent Corbières benefits from sea breezes and correspondingly cooler temperatures. The area’s chalkier terrain also provides structure and more palpable tannins to its wines. Farther inland, in the Pic-Saint-Loup appellation, located at the foot of the eponymous mountain, temperatures on most slopes are too cool for Mourvèdre and Grenache to ripen. As a result, Syrah dominates the blends and the wines sometimes bring to mind the northern reaches of the Rhône. Also worth exploring are the wines from the Terrasses du Larzac higher up (where a good dose of Cinsault adds a quaffable zest to many cuvées), in the Grés de Montpellier (of the silky tannins) and numerous other sites full of character and history, like the eye-popping perched village of Montpeyroux or the Massif de la Clape.

LAND OF STUNNING DIVERSITY (CONTINUED)

Languedoc-Roussillon wines are dazzlingly diverse, ranging from highly acidic whites to powerful reds. The region includes over 225,000 hectares of grapevines, more than Burgundy, Bordeaux and Champagne combined.

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By visiting a variety of cellars – like this one in Pic Saint-Loup – and sampling their wines, you’ll discover the wide diversity of Languedoc-Roussillon’s wines. Some whites offer freshness, others are round and intense. The rosés obviously benefit from the region’s bright sunshine. And the reds can be robust and earthy or delicate and flavourful.

September 201520

NATURAL PAIRINGS“Given the many local variations, wine is a part of everyday life, just like food, ” says Stéphane Modat. “And contact with winemakers is always personal if you’re from that part of the world. Jean Gardiés of Domaine Gardiés, for example, was a neighbour and he provided wine for my wedding. I discovered Banyuls alongside the vintners, the Parcé family. And when I taste a cuvée like Hervé Bizeul’s La Petite Sibérie, I recognize the parcel of land where the grapes are grown, which sits next to our family’s land. So you don’t really have to be in the business to make wine part of your life. My great-grandparents made wine, but we aren’t a winemaking family. I learned how to appreciate wine when I began cooking.”

The future chef’s enthusiasm for food was kindled at his grandparents’ home in the commune of Vingrau, right next to Rivesaltes (a village known for its Muscat grapes). “Sausages hung from the

rafters,” Modat recalls. “I went out with my grandfather to gather wild asparagus and when we got home we made omelets with them. My grandmother and I cooked seasonal produce from the garden: tomatoes, bell peppers, eggplant and so on. Everything grew in that garden. Imagine fresh-cut salad greens in winter!”

Modat rediscovered this sense of terroir and seasonality when he went to work in Montpellier at Jardin des Sens, then a three-Michelin-star restaurant owned by the Pourcel brothers. “Even though the cuisine there was more sophisticated, the Pourcels always concentrated on fresh, local produce. There was a time when gastronomy in the region suffered because the focus shifted to resort development along the Mediterranean. The Pourcels did more than their share to remedy that situation.”

Everywhere you go, there is a local specialty. On the beach at Sète, there are tielles, little pâtés stuffed with squid,

FRANCE 2020

DOMAINE L’OSTAL CAZES, GRAND VIN 2011, MINERVOIS LA LIVINIÈRE$28.30 12587380, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


Jean-Michel Cazes, owner of Château Lynch-Bages in Bordeaux, bought this property with his son Jean-Charles. Its name, Ostal, means “home” and “family group” in langue d’oc, the local idiom.GRAPES: SYRAH, CARIGNAN, GRENACHE, MOURVÈDRE

SEPTEMBER 3

AROMASBLUEBERRY, BLACKCURRANT, FLORAL NOTES, SPICES, COCOA, VANILLA, OAK

BODY – FULL

PALATE – STRUCTURED

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

WA 91 WS 90

A few Languedoc-Roussillon appellations. The region’s wines are as diverse as its geography. For the Cabardès and Malepère appellations, the Atlantic is a prime factor. The Mediterranean influences the wines of La Clape and Corbières, while mountain air gives Larzac, Montpeyroux and Pic-Saint-Loup wines their special character.

Languedoc-Roussillon

Spain

Pic Saint-Loup

Languedoc

Montpellier

Sète

Perpignan

Carcassonne

Banyuls

MinervoisCabardès

Malepère Corbières

Côtes du Roussillon Village

Côtes du Roussillon

La Clape

September 2015 21


mussels or fish. Farther inland, it’s the Pézenas pâtés, cylindrical pastries stuffed with lamb and raisins. The mountains are home to barbecued fare and more substantial dishes like cassoulet. In Banyuls, sandwiched between the sea and the mountains, there is civet de langoustines (ou de homard) au vin de banyuls (scampi or lobster stewed in Banyuls wine) – a superb combination of two totally different local products. Often, specialties from one locale to another are based on the same ingredients but are prepared differently. The ubiquitous eggplant, for example, is braised in ratatouille in Montpellier but oven-roasted as part of an escalivada in the Roussillon.

What Modat misses most in Quebec is cargolade – snails grilled over vine clippings and served unostentatiously with bread and aïoli – a dish that’s hard to reproduce here. “There are so many possibilities in that region, depending on whether you’re by the sea or in the mountains. I’m fascinated that the wines pair so naturally with the food. We love grilled food, for example, especially with a local full-bodied red. Now that’s a heavenly match.”

VIVE LA DIFFÉRENCE!Difference, diversity… These notions are evident even in the culture, cuisine and winemaking of Languedoc and Roussillon. Living in proximity to the Spanish border, Roussillon natives proudly proclaim their Catalan culture. “In Vingrau, we called people who hailed from some villages to the east ‘les Gabatches.’ They were certainly not Catalans. On the other hand, to say that I crossed the border when I went to work in Montpellier would be overstating the case!” Modat admits. “In terms of cuisine, we’re not exactly French and not exactly Spanish. My

FRANCE OLIVIER PITHON, MON P’TIT PITHON 2014, CÔTES CATALANES$20.10 12574811, 750 ML, 13% ABV


This friendly, supple and generous cuvée is made in the most unpretentious of spirits by winemaker Olivier Pithon. Enjoy it slightly chilled. It’s a perfect pairing with good friends. GRAPE: GRENACHE

SEPTEMBER 3

Roussillon terroirs have attracted many outside winemakers over the past few years. Olivier Pithon, who grew up in the Loire region, settled near Perpignan. His red wines – Mon P’tit Pithon, for example – are lush and smooth.

AROMASLICORICE CANDY, RASPBERRY, ANIMAL NOTES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

September 201522


grandmother cooked some rice dishes with fish or chicken, but it wasn’t genuine paella.”

As for grapes, the Vins Doux Naturels – Banyuls, Maury, Rivesaltes and others – are the pride of Roussillon. The region accounts for 80 percent of France’s production in this category. “The influence of the sea and the schist terroirs provide beautiful Grenache grapes with excellent freshness,” enthuses Jean-Philippe Granier, owner of Domaine Granier and president of the AOC Languedoc Winegrowers Syndicate, with perhaps just a hint of envy. He wonders out loud why his colleagues from Roussillon wouldn’t be willing to bring a bit more synergy to promoting the region. In so doing, he gently highlights a trait

many Roussillon natives also enjoy pointing out: that Catalans are indeed a hard-headed bunch!

The landscapes share this tough quality. Along the Mediterranean, ribbons of road grip rocky slopes. Vineyards descend dizzyingly to the water’s edge. And when you arrive at the summit, the tramontana – that powerful north wind – will almost stop your car in its tracks.

In the shadow of Canigou, the imposing peak that is the crown of the Pyrenees region, the harsher side of the terroir is reflected in the minds of the people who live and work there, and who have made it a point of pride. It comes as no surprise, then, that the wines they produce have character to spare. PH

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As shown in this photo of Roussillon’s Côte Vermeille, which stretches between Banyuls-sur-Mer and Collioure, the vines are heavily influenced by the nearby sea. Its humidity and freshness provide balance and suppleness to the Grenache grapes grown on the steep slopes.

September 2015 23

FRANCE DOMAINE LAFAGE, CUVÉE CENTENAIRE 2013, CÔTES-DU-ROUSSILLON$19.25 11367490, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


After making wine in various countries, Jean-Marc Lafage was seduced by Roussillon’s mosaic of different terroirs. This tasty white is named after the age of the vines used to make it.GRAPES: GRENACHE BLANC, GRENACHE GRIS, ROUSSANNE

SEPTEMBER 3

It’s no secret: Catalans are unequalled for their sense of conviviality. During a meal shared with friends, this local rice dish, alive with the colours of ruby and saffron, often takes pride of place at the table, setting the tone for a carefree evening. Here, Chef Stéphane Modat shares a family secret inspired by his grandmother’s recipe. Its many flavours demand a festive and versatile wine. Supple and smooth on the palate, white Grenache pairs naturally with the texture of the seafood that dominates this regional dish. And so the Cuvée Centenaire du Domaine Lafage is imposing enough to hold its own with the rich Toulouse sausages and even enhances such flavourful fare. If you prefer red wine, then you’ll get equal pleasure from the blended tannins of the Mon P’tit Pithon cuvée.

– Kler-Yann Bouteiller

FRIENDLY FAREAROMASPEACH, ACACIA, MUSCAT, PEAR

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

RECIPE AT SAQ.COM

EASY GOURMET Catalan Rice

September 201524

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At first glance, it looks like a pastry! These delicious Pézenas pâtés, named for the village where they were invented, have a strong Mediterranean profile. In a single bite, they combine the distinctive taste of the lamb and the fruity sweetness of the raisins. In the Languedoc, Carignan and Mourvèdre often give the wine a slightly untamed character that here echoes the taste of the lamb. For their part, the raisins respond well to the generous Grenache and Syrah, both of which impart a touch of voluptuousness to this Carte Blanche cuvée. The delicate lemony hint left in the mouth by the finish gives lightness to the pâté. The entire dish goes hand in hand with the lean structure of a wine that, frankly, you can never have enough of.

– K.Y. B.

SWEET PÂTÉ!

FRANCE 2017

ST. JEAN DE LA GINESTE, CARTE BLANCHE 2013, CORBIÈRES$16.95 00875252, 750 ML, 14% ABV


This tasty, balanced, precisely ripened cuvée was made by Marie-Hélène Bacave, fourth generation vigneron at this lovely family estate. An exceptional quality-price ratio.GRAPES: CARIGNAN, SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE, GRENACHE

SEPTEMBER 3

AROMASPLUM, RASPBERRY, BAKING SPICES, PEPPER

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

RECIPE AT SAQ.COM

EASY GOURMET Petits Pâtés de Pézenas

September 2015 25


LABVIATIONFRUIT SYRUP AND LEMON JUICE+ =

ST-GERMAINFruit liqueur (elderberry), France750 ML (11918925)20% ABV$46.25

RESPECT YOUR ELDERS!Toward the end of spring, delicate elderberry blossoms are handpicked from elder trees in the French Alps and distilled into a liqueur that is taking the bar scene by storm. American distiller Robert Cooper has been producing St-Germain – golden in colour with glints of green – in Dijon, Burgundy, for the U.S. market since 2007. Americans took to the “Frenchy” look of St-Germain immediately.

LIQUEUR ST-GERMAIN

SENSORY PLEASURES Although it only hit Quebec shelves a year and a half ago, St-Germain quickly became a favourite of local mixologists, who consider it a delicacy, worth its weight in gold. “The flower has to be freshly picked,” says Fabien Maillard, owner of cocktail bar Le Lab on Rachel Street in Montreal. “The liqueur is crafted from the flower, not the berry, which is why the look is reminiscent of a bottled perfume. St-Germain is first a feast for the eyes.”

A REMARKABLE BOUQUETElderberry liqueur offers a plethora of aromas and tastes. “Its fine and elegant nose first evokes pink grapefruit, but also lychee, peach and exotic fruits,” says Maillard. “On the palate, citrus and sweet fruit give way to a charming acidity. St-Germain pairs wonderfully with foie gras and is a delight with dessert.”

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September 201526

1 drink Preparation: In a shaker Type of glass: Margarita or martini

INGREDIENTS■ 25 mL (3/4 oz) St-Germain

elderberry liqueur■ 25 mL (3/4 oz) dry gin■ 25 mL (3/4 oz) violet or

blackberry syrup (Le Lab uses violet liqueur)

■ 25 mL (3/4 oz) lemon juice■ Lychee, for garnish

PREPARATION

■ Fill a shaker with ice and add all the liquid ingredients.

■ Shake vigorously for 8 to 10 seconds.

■ Pour through an ice strainer into a martini glass.

■ Garnish with a lychee, threaded on a cocktail stick.

LABVIATION

SERVING ADVICE Keep the liqueur in the refrigerator for no more than six months, as you would with Pineau des Charentes. If you’re not into mixing drinks, sip St-Germain over ice, with sparkling water, or in a Kir cocktail with white wine. For a celebratory evening, mix St-Germain and Champagne for a delectable Kir Royal. “You can’t go wrong when you combine two delicacies!” says the mixologist.

September 2015 27

PAYS 20XX PAYS 20XX PAYS PAYS

Discover the world of Origine Québec products at the SAQ at www.saq.com/originequebec-en

Limited quantities. Vintages may vary from store to store.

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CHEESECAKE, PEAR PIE

The youngest of six children, Simon Naud became fascinated with winemaking when he was just 14 years old and started helping his father, who had recently planted a vineyard at the family farm.

In 1996, at 24 years of age, Naud became a wine grower in his own right. For almost 20 years, he travelled to the coolest regions of Europe and the United States to learn which wine-producing techniques and grapes could best be adapted to Quebec’s climate.

He takes particular pleasure in pairing his wines with wild boar, which his brothers have raised for 40 years. In fact, the estate takes its name from the animal’s lair, une bauge.

• Researcher to the core In 1999, Naud founded a research committee within the Association des Vignerons du Québec. His goal: to discover grape varieties best suited to produce excellent wines in our climate. At the time, there was growing interest in Frontenac Noir, from Minnesota. Today, this high-yielding grape, known for producing well-structured wines, is one of the five most-planted grapes in Quebec.

• In the spirit of discovery The wine grower is pleased that local whites and rosés have become more complex over the past 15 years. “We’ve learned to work with the acidity. At the start, that was one of our weaknesses; now it’s one of our strengths! It imparts a lovely freshness to our wines.”

• His philosophy Naud’s 7.5 hectares of vines, spread across two parcels, yield roughly 45 to 60 hectolitres per hectare. “It’s not the yield that I focus on, it’s the quality of the wine we produce,” he says. “My goal remains to produce very good wines, at honest prices, in the most eco-friendly way possible, without limiting my methods solely to those used for organic certification.”

• The birth of a product The desire to create Novembre was born during a research trip to Bernkastel-Kues, a town on the Mosel River in Germany, known for its Reisling and late-harvest grapes. “Their strength is a wonderful balance of sweetness, acidity and alcohol level,” says Naud. His first cuvée of Novembre came out in 2006. “Since 2010, I’ve been achieving the balance I was searching for; Novembre is at once crisp, fruity and aromatic.”

“Novembre is the perfect sipper with dessert or at cocktail hour. Serve it alongside a semi-firm cheese: The wine is crisp, mouth-watering and locally made.” – Simon Naud, wine grower.

IN BRIEF

AROMASCANDIED LEMON, WHITE FRUIT, HONEY, PEACH, CANTALOUP

BODY – FULL

PALATE – RICH

WOOD – UNOAKED

ACIDITY – LIVELY

SUGAR LEVEL – SWEET

QUEBEC VIGNOBLE DE LA BAUGE NOVEMBRE VENDANGES TARDIVES$17.45 19853189, 375 ML, 9% ABV

GRAPES: VIDAL, HIBERNAL, FRONTENAC GRIS, SEYVAL BLANC

VIGNOBLE DE LA BAUGE BRIGHAM – BROME-MISSISQUOI

SEPTEMBER 3

FRANCE 2020

CHARLES HOURS, CUVÉE MARIE 2013, JURANÇON SEC$23.50 00896704, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


According to Charles Hours, a leader in the region, “Pyrenees, patience and passion are the basis for the great wines of the Jurançon.” He makes this biodynamically produced cuvée with his daughter Marie.GRAPE: GROS MANSENG

P. 25FRANCE 2017

ST. JEAN DE LA GINESTE, CARTE BLANCHE 2013, CORBIÈRES$16.95 00875252, 750 ML, 14% ABV


This tasty, balanced, precisely ripened cuvée was made by Marie-Hélène Bacave, fourth generation vigneron at this lovely family estate. An exceptional quality-price ratio.GRAPES: CARIGNAN, SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE, GRENACHE

FRANCE DOMAINE DES OLLIEUX ROMANIS, CUVÉE CLASSIQUE 2013, CORBIÈRES$18.55 10507163, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


This wine estate, located at the heart of the Boutenac terroir, showcases some remarkable century-old vineyards and highlights the virtues of Carignan, which performs particularly well there.GRAPES: CARIGNAN, GRENACHE, SYRAH

AROMASPLUM, RASPBERRY, BAKING SPICES, PEPPER

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASRASPBERRY, BLACKCURRANT, BLACKBERRY, VIOLETS, SPICES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED

ACIDITY – DISCREET

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

FRANCE MICHEL GASSIER, LES PILIERS 2014, VIN DE FRANCE$20.25 10936785, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


This highly impressive Viognier comes from a vineyard located in a Natura 2000 designated zone, a special European status recognizing and protecting an area’s rich flora and fauna. GRAPE: VIOGNIER

FISH TACOS WITH SALSAGRILLED PORK WITH HERBS, PÉZENAS PÂTÉS

BEEF AMUSE-BOUCHE WITH THYME

SCALLOP CEVICHE WITH TOMATO AND CORIANDER

P. 24FRANCE DOMAINE LAFAGE, CUVÉE CENTENAIRE 2013, CÔTES-DU-ROUSSILLON$19.25 11367490, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


After making wine in various countries, Jean-Marc Lafage was seduced by Roussillon’s mosaic of different terroirs. This tasty white is named after the age of the vines used to make it.GRAPES: GRENACHE BLANC, GRENACHE GRIS, ROUSSANNE

AROMASPEACH, ACACIA, MUSCAT, PEAR

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASPEACH, ROSES, SMOKE, MINERAL NOTES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASPINEAPPLE, FENNEL, BUTTER, EXOTIC FRUITS, LINDEN

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT

ACIDITY – LIVELY

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

COCONUT SHRIMP CURRY, CATALAN RICE

September 2015 29

SEPTEMBER 3

FRANCE 2018

CHÂTEAU MARIS, NATURAL SELECTION BIODYNAMIC 2011, MINERVOIS LA LIVINIÈRE$22.05 12587435, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


Ultralight bottles made from recycled glass, negative carbon footprint thanks to a cellar built from… hemp bricks: You’d be hard pressed to be greener than this biodynamic-certified producer.GRAPES: SYRAH, GRENACHE, CARIGNAN

FRANCE 2018-2028

DOMAINE DE MAOURIES, CAILLOUX DE PYREN VIEILLES VIGNES 2012, MADIRAN$22.90 12587460, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


A rising star in Madiran, this family estate run by three children of the Dufau family received the highest accolades in the 2015 Guide Hachette. A name to watch!GRAPES: TANNAT, CABERNET SAUVIGNON

AROMASBLACKBERRY, FLORAL NOTES, STRAWBERRY, CHERRY, GARRIGUE

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASLICORICE CANDY, RASPBERRY, ANIMAL NOTES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASBLUEBERRY, PEACH, GRAPES, BLACKCURRANT, PLUM, OAK

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

DUCK BREAST DUCK CONFIT WITH LENTILS

P. 22FRANCE OLIVIER PITHON, MON P’TIT PITHON 2014, CÔTES CATALANES$20.10 12574811, 750 ML, 13% ABV


This friendly, supple and generous cuvée is made in the most unpretentious of spirits by winemaker Olivier Pithon. Enjoy it slightly chilled. It’s a perfect pairing with good friends. GRAPE: GRENACHE

GRILLED VEGETABLE TIAN, PISSALADIÈRE

AROMASSTRAWBERRY, EXOTIC FRUITS, BAKING SPICES, PEPPER, VANILLA

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

FRANCE CHÂTEAU FONTENELLES, CUVÉE RENAISSANCE 2012, CORBIÈRES$20.50 12561817, 750 ML, 14% ABV


Thierry Tastu returned to the family estate after a career in business management in Montpellier to continue, along with his wife, a winemaking tradition that goes back five generations.GRAPES: SYRAH, GRENACHE NOIR, OLD-VINE CARIGNAN, MOURVÈDRE

WA (88-90)

PEPPERCORN STEAK

FRANCE CHÂTEAU L’ARGENTIER, L’ARGENTIER VIEILLES VIGNES 2013, VIN DE PAYS DU GARD$20.10 11587927, 750 ML, 14% ABV


Using the estate’s oldest vines – Carignan planted in 1935 – Burgundy-born François Jourdan and his wife, Elisabeth, showcase them well with this finesse-driven cuvée.GRAPE: CARIGNAN

AROMASRAISINS, BAKING SPICES, STRAWBERRY

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – UNOAKED


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

VENISON TERRINE

September 201530

SOURCES CITED:

IWC : International Wine Cellar, Stephen Tanzer (out of 100)RVF : La Revue du vin de France (out of 20)WA : Wine Advocate, Robert Parker (out of 100)WE : Wine Enthusiast (out of 100)WS : Wine Spectator (out of 100)

ICON LEGEND

hold until the year indicated

WHITE WINE RED WINE

drink now drink now through the year indicated

The potential longevity of a wine when stored in the proper conditions. Note that this is simply a guideline, with the exceptions – and they are numerous! – proving the rule.

Cellier Value PicksFavouriteWINE PROFILE CHART

Presence and intensity of acidity, body, wood and other elements at the time of tasting.

SEPTEMBER 3

FRANCE CHÂTEAU TOUR DES GENDRES, GLOIRE DE MON PÈRE 2012, CÔTES DE BERGERAC$24.15 10268887, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


Drawn from a special 10-hectare plot, this cuvée is a tribute to the De Conti patriarch, who advised his children, as they were starting their careers, “If you’re going to make wine, better make it good.”GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MALBEC, MERLOT

FRANCE 2021

CHÂTEAU GAUTOUL, CUVÉE D’EXCEPTION 2004, CAHORS$23.30 00852087, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV


Thanks to its decade of gentle evolution in the bottle, you have here an opportunity to enjoy a mature, integrated Cahors. Tannins, polished by time, still support its great aromatic complexity. It’s absolutely delicious.GRAPE: MALBEC

AROMASBLACKCURRANT, BLUEBERRY, LICORICE, WET EARTH

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASBLACKCURRANT, LICORICE, CEDAR, VIOLETS, TAR, GRAPHITE, THYME

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

P. 19FRANCE 2019

DOMAINE MODAT, COMME AVANT 2011, CÔTES DU ROUSSILLON VILLAGES$25.95 12586011, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


Produced from the estate’s best parcels, this cuvée is a tribute to the traditional winemaking styles of the Roussillon. A wine made “the old way” – authentic and truly satisfying. GRAPES: CARIGNAN, SYRAH, GRENACHE

AROMASBLACK FRUIT, COCOA, SPICES, BLACKCURRANT, OAK

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

FRANCE 2023

CHÂTEAU LES HAUTS D’AGLAN, CUVÉE A 2009, CAHORS$26.95 10800423, 750 ML, 13% ABV


Set on the highest terraces above the Lot River, and thus benefiting from the best exposure and excellent clay-limestone soils, the château’s vines are dominated (90%) by the highly tannic, long- aging Malbec.GRAPES: MALBEC, MERLOT

P. 21FRANCE 2020

DOMAINE L’OSTAL CAZES, GRAND VIN 2011, MINERVOIS LA LIVINIÈRE$28.30 12587380, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


Jean-Michel Cazes, owner of Château Lynch-Bages in Bordeaux, bought this property with his son Jean-Charles. Its name, Ostal, means “home” and “family group” in langue d’oc, the local idiom.GRAPES: SYRAH, CARIGNAN, GRENACHE, MOURVÈDRE

AROMASBLACKBERRY, VIOLETS, LICORICE, FRESH MUSHROOMS, OAK

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASBLUEBERRY, BLACKCURRANT, FLORAL NOTES, SPICES, COCOA, VANILLA, OAK

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

WA 91WS 90

PASTA WITH DUCK CONFITCASSOULETVEAL CHOPS WITH BLACK OLIVE TAPENADE

BEEF STRIPLOIN WITH RED WINE SAUCE LEG OF LAMB WITH ROSEMARY

September 2015 31

Products are available in limited quantities. No layaways are permitted until the Monday following the release of the products. Prices are subject to change without notice.

SEPTEMBER 17

P. 13FRANCE PIERRE ET HERVÉ LHUILLIER, CHÂTEAU FLEUR HAUT GAUSSENS 2009, BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR$19.60 12574141, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


Highly praised by La Revue du vin de France, this château is a jewel of its appellation. And Bettane et Desseauve calls the 2009 a major success in this excellent vintage.GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MALBEC

AROMASBLACK FRUIT, RASPBERRY, LICORICE, UNDERBRUSH

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

FRANCE 2020

DOMAINE SANTA DUC, LES QUATRE TERRES 2012, CÔTES DU RHÔNE$19.60 12598548, 750 ML, 14% ABV


Produced by an estate named after the eagle owls that watch over its vineyards, this cuvée comes from four different Rhône terroirs, including Rasteau and Vacqueyras.GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH, MOURVÈDRE, CARIGNAN, CINSAULT, CLAIRETTE

AROMASBLACKBERRY, BLACK OLIVE, LEATHER, PEPPER, GARRIGUE, MINERAL NOTES

BODY – FULL


WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

FRANCE CLOS BELLANE, LES ÉCHALAS 2012, CÔTES DU RHÔNE VILLAGES$31.00 12235827, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


Biodynamic proponent Stéphane Vedeau says he just goes along “with what nature is offering.” The richness of these beloved Rhône grapes is made even more powerful by late harvest and barrel-aging. GRAPES: MARSANNE, ROUSSANNE

AROMASBAKED APPLE, HONEY, APRICOT, MUSHROOM, SMOKY NOTES

BODY – FULL

PALATE – RICH

WOOD – EVIDENT

ACIDITY – DISCREET

SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

FRANCE 2020

CHÂTEAU TAYET, CUVÉE PRESTIGE 2010, BORDEAUX SUPÉRIEUR$19.65 11106062, 750 ML, 12.5% ABV


Located at the heart of the Médoc right next to the Margaux appellation, this small, 10-hectare property has exceptional exposure on a well-situated incline, near the Gironde River.GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, PETIT VERDOT

AROMASBLACKCURRANT, CEDAR, ROASTED NOTES, MOCHA

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BRIE WITH CURRY AND HONEYGRILLED FLANK STEAK, CHEESEBURGER WITH BACON LAMB CHOPS WITH ROSEMARY

RIB STEAK WITH RED WINE AND SHALLOTS

RVF 16.5WE 90

AROMASBLACKCURRANT, HERBAL NOTES, COFFEE, ROASTED NOTES, COCOA

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

P. 9FRANCE 2019

ANTOINE MOUEIX, CHÂTEAU LEBOSCQ CRU BOURGEOIS 2010, MÉDOC$19.95 12609905, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


In the Bordeaux region, a boscq means a high point, which indeed describes this château’s location on a gravelly hilltop that provides the vines with good exposure and drainage. GRAPES: CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC

FLANK STEAK WITH ROASTED BELL PEPPERS

September 201532

SEPTEMBER 17

FRANCE 2019

J. L. CHAVE SÉLECTION, MON CŒUR 2013, CÔTES DU RHÔNE$22.25 10330433, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


For his négociant business, beloved winemaker Jean-Louis Chave buys grapes from a select group of wine growers to make this cuvée, whose return to Cellier Space is always eagerly awaited.GRAPES: SYRAH, GRENACHE

AROMASCHERRY, PEPPER, SANDALWOOD, CINNAMON, VIOLETS

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

P. 10FRANCE 2019

CHÂTEAU HANTEILLAN CRU BOURGEOIS 2009, HAUT MÉDOC$24.00 11396101, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


Wine has been made for almost a thousand years at Hanteillan. In the exceptional 2009 vintage, this cuvée is a great value. It will please those who love a generous yet supple style of Bordeaux.GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, PETIT VERDOT

AROMASPLUM, ANIMAL NOTES, MUSHROOM, SMOKY NOTES

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

FRANCE 2022

CHÂTEAU CROIX DU RIVAL 2010, LUSSAC SAINT-ÉMILION$24.20 12609884, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


A great opportunity to explore some of the best terroirs in lesser-known appellations, thanks to the efforts of Didier Miqueu and Count von Neipperg. A solid wine from the superb 2010 vintage.GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC, CABERNET SAUVIGNON

P. 6FRANCE 2018

CHÂTEAU LA CARDONNE CRU BOURGEOIS SUPÉRIEUR 2005, MÉDOC$26.20 11095121, 750 ML, 13% ABV


This former property of Domaines Rothschild, which in the 1980s brought it back to its former glory, La Cardonne is now owned by the Charloux family. A wine from an exceptional vintage, aged to perfection.GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, CABERNET FRANC

AROMASBLACKCURRANT, BLUEBERRY, ROASTED NOTES, GRAPHITE, LEATHER, UNDERBRUSH

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASANIMAL NOTES, CIGAR BOX, LEATHER, UNDERBRUSH, OAK

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

LAMB MEATBALLS WITH HERBS

GRILLED BEEF WITH SESAME, VEAL RUMP ROAST WITH COFFEE SAUCE STEAK FRITES

MUSHROOM AND GRUYÈRE TARTLET

IWC 90

FRANCE 2018

CHÂTEAU LACOMBE NOAILLAC 2010, MÉDOC$21.95 10752732, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


The vines of Lacombe Noaillac, planted in the early 1980s, benefit from perfect thermal regulation thanks to their proximity to the ocean and the Gironde estuary – an outstanding location!GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, CABERNET FRANC, PETIT VERDOT

AROMASBLACK FRUIT, TOBACCO, MOCHA, BARLEY SUGAR, DRIED FLOWERS, VANILLA

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

CHILI CON CARNE

September 2015 33

SEPTEMBER 17

FRANCE 2025

CHÂTEAU MALESCASSE CRU BOURGEOIS 2009, HAUT MÉDOC$30.75 12258957, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


Ideally located on one of the nicest gravel hilltops in this appellation, between the communes of Margaux and Saint-Julien, this château has entrusted its winemaking to well-known consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt.GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, CABERNET FRANC, PETIT VERDOT

FRANCE 2019

DOMAINE DE BEAURENARD, LES ARGILES BLEUES 2012, RASTEAU$29.30 12589203, 750 ML, 15% ABV


Produced by a well-known Châteauneuf-du-Pape estate, this cru from the village of Rasteau gets depth and minerality from the local terroir of blue clay and limestone.GRAPES: GRENACHE, SYRAH

AROMASCHERRY, GRAPHITE, ROASTED NOTES, CEDAR, MOCHA

BODY – FULL


WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASCHERRY, PLUM, CINNAMON, RESIN, VANILLA

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

FRANCE 2022

J. BOUTIN, PARCELLE DE JEAN 2012, SAINT-JOSEPH$31.75 12587531, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV


Stéphane Vedeau bottles this cuvée from the Northern Rhône, named after his mother, Jeanne Boutin, with the same care used at his other estates (Bellane and Ferme du Mont).GRAPE: SYRAH

AROMASCHERRY, BLACKBERRY, PEPPER, BLACK OLIVE, LEATHER

BODY – FULL

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – SUBTLE


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

FRANCE 2021

CHÂTEAU COUTET 2010, SAINT-ÉMILION GRAND CRU$35.25 12592816, 750 ML, 14.5% ABV


This environmentally conscious estate is run by the family’s 14th generation. Its lands, which have been kept free of chemicals, have attracted researchers who study their microbial life. GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC, CABERNET SAUVIGNON, MALBEC

P. 15FRANCE 2021

DE BOÜARD DE LAFOREST & FILS, NO. 3 D’ANGÉLUS 2012, SAINT-ÉMLION GRAND CRU$55.00 12167019, 750 ML, 13.5% ABV

NUMBER OF CASES: 97

The third wine from Château Angélus (after the first wine and the Carillon d’Angélus) was first produced by Hubert de Boüard in the 2007 vintage.GRAPES: MERLOT, CABERNET FRANC, CABERNET SAUVIGNON

AROMASBLUEBERRY, CHERRY, PLUM, SPICES, RESIN, OAK

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

AROMASCHERRY, PASTRY, PLUM, CEDAR

BODY – MEDIUM

PALATE – GENEROUS

WOOD – EVIDENT


SUGAR LEVEL – DRY

BUFFALO BURGER WITH BLUE CHEESE BRAISED LAMB SHANK

DUCK BREAST WITH FIGS AND SPICES BEEF WELLINGTON

VEAL CHOPS WITH MUSHROOM SAUCE

WA 92WS 91

September 201534

CYAN MAGENTA YELLOW BLACK

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