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GRAFTING TECHNIQUESThis tutorial was made a few years back - I've just edited it for this web site until I can revise it one day. (See the Top Grafter grafting plier on Jim Raggett's site)

                 Step by step in Pictures!

Tools: Cuttings or pots of rootstock, knife, tape and labels. Then go find a scion.

The ever-popular, easy side-graft.

My favourite, the wedge which can be as little as a single node "bud".

Thinner wood on a thicker rootstock...this is an excellent solution

 

GRAFTING is just a method to connect the sap-flow of the rootstock to that of the scion and it doesn't need much. I've seen all sorts of funny results with only a fraction of the cambium sap layers making connection but the plant still thrives. Of course, the "expert" will boast about getting the rootstock and the scion to line up just

about everywhere. I remember my early grafts when I labelled some as "unlikely", others as "certain" and I can assure you the results were often the other way round.

There are many other grafting methods even as simple as just clefting the top. The cambium connection is all that matters. Some are more aesthetic in appearance than others, but if it's just for yourself, it doesn't matter what type you use.

A humidity hat is important if you don't have a humid igloo-type room. Two weeks is about all the hat needs to be on and the tape can be removed from 4 to 6 weeks according to whether it's warmed up or not. Any remaining eyes on the rootstock are then removed as well.

See also how to recycle a failed graft - even using another method, the whip-and-tongue graft.

Plastic bag hat is important for about two weeks

Side graft on a broom stick standard. Insert helps show

union.

Wedge graft on a standard. Insert is supposed to help!!

Rind or bark graft showing one on each side of pole.

The Side GraftAs stated earlier, this is the easiest technique for many. For a rooted cutting in a tube, it is necessary to pull upwards with the left hand while applying downward pressure with the cutting blade at the right angle. Otherwise the pressure may break the roots off.

Make sure the angle stays constant with only a firm pressure

Use a rocking forward-back motion, not a hard shove

Try not to "scoop" - no curved cuts! Try to cut the scion with a "flat" cut without

scooping Practice on scrap prunings for you will need lots

of practice Unrooted cuttings from pencil to finger

 

thickness will do Remember, tough tape can pull "soft" wood in to

close gaps!!!

Here is a picture sequence which may help give the idea.

Other grafting sites of interest are provided by:

     Larry Johnston     Jim Purdie

 

Practise the angle Now apply pressure Rock forward Then back

Forward again Back again. Test the cut depth Insert the scion

 

Down she goes! The fit's OK. It's a wrap!!

The Wedge GraftI like this technique and use it mostly. The local citrus nursery now uses it on thin skewer thickness plants with single node "chips". As before for a rooted cutting in a tube, it is necessary to pull upwards with the left hand while applying downward pressure with the cutting blade at the right angle. Otherwise the pressure will break the roots off.

This time two cuts are made, the bottom cut more like 45 degrees. The scion needs a long cut on one side and a short 45 degree one on the other to roughly match the slot.

Make sure the angle stays constant with only a firm pressure Use a rocking forward-back motion, not a hard shove Try not to "scoop" - no curved cuts! Try to cut the scion with a "flat" cut without scooping Practice on scrap prunings for you will need lots of practice Unrooted cuttings from pencil to finger thickness will do Remember, tough tape can pull "soft" wood in to close gaps!!!

Here is a picture sequence which may help give the idea.

 

Bottom cut Long cut as before Scion long cut side Short cut under flap

 

Locked in 3-node sample scion 1-node will do

The Rind or Bark GraftSo often, a hybridizer gives you a piece of wood and asks you to graft it (when you learn how) hoping to get the plant back in the future  if he/she loses it for whatever reason. If it's a thin piece, this technique is a lifesaver. Thin rootstocks are not always successful. Thicker ones have a much better take rate for me...almost 100%.

This time, lay the knife along the bark as shown and gently push all the way in to the "wood". With a gentle twist each way the bark is lifted from the wood. (Go opposite the existing node for one graft, or one-quarter each way and make two slits to insert two.)

Cut the scion with a long flat cut from side-to-side. Back trim a little ledge on the back side to slide under the bark more easily. Now trim just a fine whisker down each edge to bare the cambium sap line to better connect with the flow.

Here is a picture sequence which may help give the idea.

 

Gently cut to wood Lift the flaps The thin one Long "wedge"-type

Edge close-shaved Bit more trimming Ready to insert Ready to wrap

Grafting Standards or "Trees"  

A number of long cuttings should be struck a few weeks in advance

 

Scions should be 2 or 3 branched pieces to give a full top of foliage as they take.

2 or 3 even slots should be spaced around the crown of the freshly topped "broom stick"

The scions required need only a simple V-trim

Grafting a "Broom Stick"

Insert the scions with the retained branches pointing outwards

Wrap the wood together to maintain good contact of the cambium layers to get the sap flow started.

This zip-lock bag will maintain the humidity from transpiration and prevent dehydration of the scion while a good sap flow gets started - usually needed only a couple of weeks.

Recycling the Failed Graft

The recycling is finished above - shown with more old grafts at the side - these were recovered from year-old "bonsaied" by neglect material in the old shed. Below can be seen the material I started with and the half-processed grafts.  You'll notice I repotted the final plants to give a better sap flow through the graft union and the bags maintain humidity for about 2-3 weeks before removal.  There is no need for misting as that is used essentially to root cuttings by creating a temperature difference between the tops and bottoms of cuttings. These plants were heavily rooted even inside the tubes after the excess roots were pruned off. They will now be watered about twice a week under 70% shade. Below, the discussion continues.

 

The old graft scar on the left may be compared with the one on the right that has been shaved.  You'll notice the cambium is fresh all round and a new scion could be cut to fit. The centre wood doesn't regrow anyway and all growth comes from the edges - however, it doesn't look very attractive. That's why, as seen below, if the root-stock was long enough, it is better to cut the whole top off and do a wedge or side graft.  The centre one shows a whip-and-tongue graft where a 20% or so angled cut matches the two surfaces.  An extra cut parallel to the stem is made about a third of the way down and extends till level with two-thirds. The two pieces "lock" together using the centre sliver of wood to slot in to the cuts, one from each.