haircoloring color theory cosmetology: milady standard cosmetology ©2007 thomson delmar learning....

Haircoloring Color Theory

Cosmetology:

Milady StandardCosmetology

©2007 Thomson Delmar Learning. All Rights Reserved

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

“The only thing that makes life possible is permanent,

intolerable uncertainty, not knowing what comes

next”

Ursula K. Le Guin

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Objectives• Identify principles of color theory and

relate them to haircolor• Explain level and tone and their role in

formulating haircolor• List four basic categories of haircolor,

explain their chemical effect on hair, and give examples of their use

• Explain the action of lighteners

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Why Do People Color Their Hair?

• Cover up or blend gray hair• Enhance existing haircolor• Create a fashion or self expression

statement• Correct unwanted tones• Accentuate a particular haircut

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Hair Structure• Cuticle• Cortex• Medulla

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Texture• Coarse• Medium• Fine

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Density• Number of hairs per square inch• Refers to hair thickness

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Porosity• Low porosity• Average porosity• High porosity• Test for porosity

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Natural Hair Color• Melanin in the cortex

– Eumelanin– Pheomelanin – Contributing pigment

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

The Level System• Unit of measurement• Identifies lightness or darkness• Arranged on scale of 1 to 10• 1 being darkest• 10 being lightest

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Tone - Intensity• Tone or hue is balance of color

– Warm– Cool

• Intensity refers to strength of color tone

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Identifying Natural Level• Crown area• Match swatches• Compare to hair strand• Determine level• Gray hair

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Color Theory• Base colors

– Violet– Blue– Red-orange– Gold

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Law of Color

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Primary Colors• Blue• Red• Yellow

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Secondary Colors• Green• Orange• Violet

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Tertiary Colors• Blue-green• Blue-violet• Red-orange

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Complementary Colors• Blue and orange• Red and green• Yellow and violet

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Categories of Haircolor• Nonoxidative

– Temporary– Semipermanent

• Oxidative– Demipermanent– Permanent

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Hair Lightening• Diffuses natural or artificial pigment• Developer is oxidizing agent• Contains alkalizing ingredient

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Temporary Color• Does not penetrate

cuticle layer• Coats hair shaft• Neutralizes

unwanted tones• Available in variety

of colors and products

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Semipermanent• Lasts several

shampoos• Penetrates hair shaft;

stains cuticle layer• Fades with each

shampoo• Non-oxidation

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Demipermanent• Deposits color; does not lift• Ideal for:

– Covering unpigmented hair– Refreshing faded permanent color– Depositing tonal changes– Corrective color– Reverse highlighting

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

• Darkens haircolor• Causes little or no damage• Available in gel, cream, or liquid

Demipermanent

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Permanent• Matches, lightens, covers• Contains ammonia, oxidative tints, and

peroxide• Contains aniline derivatives• Removes natural pigment while adding

artificial color

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Natural Haircolors• From leaves or bark of plants• No lightening• Limited shade range• Professional products cannot be

applied over

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Metallic Haircolor• Contains metal salts• Facilitates progressive buildup• Requires daily application

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Hydrogen Peroxide• Oxidizing agents or catalysts• pH between 2.5 and 4.5

• H2O2

• Volume – Lower volume, less lift– Higher volume, greater lift

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Purpose of Lighteners• Lighten prior to color application• Lighten to a desired shade• Brighten and lighten existing shade• Lighten only certain parts of hair• Lighten dark natural or color-treated

levels

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Decolorizing Process• Hair goes through up to 10 stages

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Contribution to Underlying Pigment

• Decolorize to appropriate level• Apply new color• Use toner to achieve pale color• Never lift past pale yellow

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Summary and Review• List primary, secondary, and tertiary

colors• Name two types of melanin

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

Summary and Review• Define level, tone, and intensity• What are the classifications of

haircolor?

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

• Why is a patch test important?• What is a strand test?• What is the role of ammonia in a

haircolor formula?• What is the role of hydrogen peroxide

in a haircolor formula?

Summary and Review

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

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