haircoloring special effects miladys standard cosmetology cosmetology:

Haircoloring Special Effects

Milady’s Standard Cosmetology

Cosmetology:

MILADY’SStandardInstructor Support SlidesCOSMETOLOGY

“Avoiding danger is no safer in the long run than outright exposure. The fearful are

caught as often as the bold”

Helen Keller


Objectives• Demonstrate special effects

haircoloring techniques; cap, foil and balayage

• Understand special problems encountered in haircoloring

• List safety precautions in haircoloring


Highlighting• Some strands lighter• Illusion of depth• Does not contrast• Details more visible


Reverse Highlighting• Low lighting• Some strands darker• Dark areas recede


Cap Techniques• Lightener or high-lift color• Rinsed and shampooed• Towel-blotted and conditioned• Toned if desired


Foil Techniques• Sliced or weaved • Placed on foil or plastic wrap• Apply lightener or color• Sections sealed


Foil Patterns• Face-frame• Half-head• Three-quarter head• Full-head


• Waterproof cape• Towel• Foil• Gloves• Plastic clips• Bowl/brushes

• Tail comb• Applicator brush• Lightener• Record card• Applicator bottle

Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Implements


• Do patch test• Do client consultation• Remove and store jewelry• Drape client• Shampoo, towel dry• Do strand test



• Slice hair at crown area

• Brush on lightener• Fold foil• Use comb to crease• Clip foil



• Clip hair up• Continue down back center• Release the clipped up foils• Divide into 2 sections• Apply lightener



• Move to other side• Move to top• Apply lightener• Continue to front• Process according to strand test



• Remove foils, shampoo, rinse• Apply glaze• Work into hair; process• Rinse, shampoo, condition• Style as desired



• Perform cleanup and sanitation• Rinse and disinfect• Record results

Special Effects Haircoloring with Foil Cleanup and

Sanitation


Balayage• Lightener

applied• Subtle effects


Toning• Nonoxidative toner• Traditional semipermanent• Demipermanent


• Used when:– Slight change desired– Hair processes rapidly– Highlight natural color in single application

Highlighting Shampoo Tints


Highlighting Shampoo• Shampoo and hydrogen peroxide• Natural haircolor slightly lightened• No patch test required


Special Problems• Gray hair • Yellow discoloration


Special Problems• Formulating for gray hair


Presoftening• Mix according to manufacturer’s

directions• Apply to resistant area• Process at room temperature• Remove color• Apply desired level of color


Rules for Effective Color Correction

• Do not panic• Determine true problem• Determine cause of problem• Develop solution• One step at a time• Never guarantee exact results• Do strand test


Damaged Hair Characteristics• Rough texture• Overporous condition• Brittle and dry• Susceptible to breakage• No elasticity• Spongy and matted• Color fades


Damaged Hair Treatments• Penetrating conditioner• Finishing rinse• Postpone further chemicals• Between service conditioning• Recommend retail products


Fillers• Conditioner fillers• Color fillers


Color Filler Advantages• Deposits color to faded ends• Helps hair hold color• Prevents streaking• Prevents off-color results• More uniform, natural looking in a tint• More uniform when tinting hair back to

natural color


Selecting Correct Filler• Replace missing primary color• Apply directly to hair or mix with

haircolor


Tips for Red• Warm, coppery reds use red-orange

base• Hot, fiery reds use red-violet or true

red• Use no-lift deposit-only to refresh• If gray is present, add natural color• Refresh with soap cap


Tips for Brunettes• Avoid orange, brassy tones• Cover gray• Highlight deep or caramel color


Tips for Blonds• Brown to blond• Covering gray hair• Double process• High-lift blonds• Lowlights


Common Haircolor Solutions• Green cast• Overall haircolor too light• Overall haircolor too dark• Restoring blond to natural color


Haircolor Safety Precautions• Administer patch test• Do not apply if abrasions are present• Do not apply over metallic tint• Do not brush hair before service• Read and follow manufacturer’s

directions


Haircolor Safety Precautions• Sanitize tools and implements• Drape properly• Do strand test• Use bottle or bowl for mixing• Do not mix until ready to use;

discard left over tint


Haircolor Safety Precautions• Wear protective gloves• Don’t let color get in eyes• Do not overlap during retouch• Use mild shampoo• Wash hands


Summary and Review• What are the 3 most commonly used

methods for highlighting?• What are fillers, and for what purpose

are they used?


• List at least 10 safety precautions to follow during haircolor process

Summary and Review


Congratulations!You’ve just completed

another unit of study toward program completion

haircoloring special effects miladys standard cosmetology cosmetology:

Documents

haircoloring slide

test slide

desired slide

head slide

sanitation slide

haircolor slide

natural color slide

visible slide