COSMETOLOGY

A. Cosmetology – refers to the study and presence of beauty culture. It is the professional treatment of the skin, hair, and nails. Success in beauty culture depends to a large extent upon knowing the “why” and “how” of the varied services rendered to patrons.

Science of cosmetology• Salon ecology – the study of the relationship between the living organisms that exist

within a salon and their potential affects on public health.Bacteriology – the science that deals with the study of microorganisms called bacteria.Sterilization – the process of making an object germ-free by the destruction of all kinds of

bacteria whether beneficial or harmful.Sanitation – the application of measures to promote public health and prevent the spread

of infectious diseases.• Anatomy and Physiology – the subjects of inconsiderable importance to the practice of

cosmetology.Anatomy – the study of gross structures of the body such as muscles, bones or arteries.Physiology – the study of the functions or activities performed by various parts the body.Histology – the study of minute structure of the various parts of the body such as the skin,

hair, nails, sweat glands and oil glands.Electricity – a form of energy capable of producing magnetic, chemical or heat effects.Chemistry – the science which deals with the composition, characteristics and changes of

the matter.

B. Good groomingGood grooming means taking care of the hair, skin, face, hands and total

body; that can lift one’s morale and help increase self-esteem; and a manifestation that one is indeed taking care of him/herself.

What comprises of being well groomed?• One must wear the right combination of clothes.• Hair should be in perfect shape.• Nails must be well cut and shaped.• For a working woman, make-up must be done carefully.• Accessories must be well selected.C. Manicure and PedicureManicuring: a cosmetic beauty treatment for the fingernails and hands;

comes from the Latin manus, meaning “hand” and cura meaning “care”; a treatment for just the hands, just the nails, or both and purpose is to improve the appearance of the hands and nails.

Pedicuring: way to improve the appearance of the feet, and their nails, basically a manicure for the feet; comes from the Latin words pes which means “foot” and cura means “care”.

Nail structure• Free edge: the end of the nail plate that is shaped during manicure

and pedicure• Hyponichium: the portion of skin at the end of the finger underneath

the free edge.• Nail plate: the visible portion of the nail that sits on top of the nail bed

ands at the free edge.• Side wall: the grooves on the sides of the nail between the nail and

the skin.• Nail bed: the part of the finger underneath the nail plate.• Lunula: is the moon shaped point where the matrix and nail bed meet.

Please take care with the lunula area as it is the softest part of the nail.• Cuticle: the overlapping skin surrounding the nail. Its job is to protect

the matrix from invading bacteria and physical damage.• Matrix: this is where the nail is made so it is not surprising to find out

that a healthy matrix will lead to a healthy nail.

SHAPES OF THE NAIL

Manicure and pedicure implements• Orangewood stick: loosen cuticle, to work around the nail

and for applying cream and etc.• Nail file: used to shape and smooth the free edge of the

nail.• Cuticle pusher: to push back and loosen the cuticle.• Cuticle nipper: to trim the cuticle.• Nail brush: to clean the nails and finger tips with the aid of

warm soapy water.• Emery boards: to shape the free edge of the finger nails

with the coarse side and level the nail on the fine side.• Nail buffer: use to smoothen the top portion of the nail

plate.• Nail cutter: to cut the nails.

Manicure and pedicure cosmetics• Cuticle cream: used to prevent brittle nails and dry cuticle.• Cuticle remover: used to soften the dead cuticle around the nail.• Cuticle oil: used to soften and lubricate the skin around the nails.• Cuticle solvent: may contain 2-5% of sodium or potassium hydroxide plus

glycerin.• Nail whitener: applied as a paste, cream, or coated string, it consists mainly of

white pigments (zinc dioxide or titanium dioxide).• Nail polisher: solvent containing acetone or other solvent is used to thin out the

nail polish while it is thickened.• Nail polish: usually prepared in the form of powder or paste. Its smoothes the nail

and also imparts a sheen to the bail during buffing.• Nail drier: a fine spray which protects the nail against stickness and dulling.• Base coat: a liquid product applied before the liquid nail polish.• Top coat or top sealer: a liquid applied over the nail polish.• Nail strengthener: a product designed to prevent the nails from splitting or

peeling.• Hand cream and lotion: keep the skin soft by replacing the natural oil lost from

the skin.• Abrasive: available as pumice powder and is used to smooth irregular nail ridges.

Materials:• Absorbent cotton: use to remove cosmetics to the nails.• Soap: use for finger rings• Warm water: use for finger bath• Towel: used individual towel for each patron• Cleansing tissue: use whenever necessary• Antiseptic: use for minor injuries to tissues surroundings

the nails• Disinfectant: use to sanitize implements; to sponge the

manicure table• Spatula: use to remove cream from jars• Mending tissue and mending liquid: use to repair and

cover broken, split or torn nails.

A. Preparation for a Plain Manicure• remove old polish• Shape the nails• Soften cuticle• Dry fingertips• Apply cuticle remover• Loosen cuticle• Clean under free-edge• Cleanse nailsCompletion• Bevel nail• Apply the base coat• Apply liquid polish• Remove excess polish• Apply top or seal coat• Apply hand lotion

Nail Artis an imaginative and artistic process, involving special care and expertise for bringing out the best effects.

D. Facial carethe secret of a beautiful face is proper skincare, the right beauty sleep every night, a balanced diet and an extra portion of care on a regular basis. It must also be remembered that the needs of the skin change: during the day, it needs protection from the environment effects; at night, it is regenerating and therefore needs care that supports this process.

Facial treatments: deep cleansing treatment of the face, neck and shoulders, using masks, creams and massage to tone, exfoliate, moisturize and revitalize the skin.

Cleansing• Remove old make-up and the grime and grease that have been

accumulated during the day.• Remove mascara with cotton bud dipped in eye-dipped cleansing lotion.• Remove the eye shadow by gently wiping it off with a pad of clean cotton

wool moistened with eye-cleansing lotion.• Pour a little facial cleansing cream into the palm of one hand and dab it

generously over the nose, chin, forehead and cheeks using two fingers of other hand

• Massage the cream into the skin, starting under the throat.Toners – remove all traces of dirt, make-up or cleanser that remain after

cleansing.Moisturizing – without moisture, the skin will not remain smooth and supple.Facial Make-up

the application of cosmetics to the face to emphasize one’s good facial features and minimize less attractive features.since each person has unique features, there is no one ideal way to apply makeup. Applying cosmetics is an art.

Kinds of Facial Make-up• Day make up: a simple and light make-up that needs to be subtle and balanced.• Evening make up: make up that is more dramatic.• Photographic make up: make up that take into consideration specifically the

effect of the camera.• Theatrical/fantasy make up: is typically heavy and loud.Implements and Supplies• Eyeliner: is a really thin and fine brush with soft bristles that help you line your

eyes with precision.• Eye shadow: needs brushes like contour brush.• Mascara: comes with a sturdy brush in the eyelashes.• Eyebrow brush: gives definition and shape to the eyebrows.• Foundation brush: used to apply liquid or mineral foundation over the face, neck

and even on the back.• Concealer brush: used to apply to the areas of imperfection on the face.• Powder brush: used to apply loose powder over the foundation and concealer.• Blusher blush: used to apply blush or cheek.• Lip brush: used to apply lipstick or lip gloss to the lips.

Before applying make-up, moisturize the skin, according to the needs:1. Apply foundation2. Apply concealer3. Apply powder4. Apply eye color5. Apply eyeliner6. Apply eyebrow color7. Apply mascara8. Apply cheek color (blush)9. Apply lip color• Cleanup and sanitation 1. Discard disposable items2. Disinfect implements3. Clean and sanitize brushes4. Place towels and linens5. Sanitize work station6. Wash hands

Corrective make-up• Highlighting: application of a lighter shade of foundation

to particular area of the face to focus attention.• Shadowing/shading: application of a darker shade of

foundation to a particular feature.Eyebrow shape to balance facial features:Low foreheadWide set eyesClose set eyesRound faceLong faceSquare face

BARBERINGIs one of the oldest and most social professions. In ancient

times, barbers offered dental services along with haircutting, hairdressing and shaving.

Treatment of the Hair and Scalp• The purpose of giving scalp treatment is to preserve the

health, cleanliness and beauty of the hair and scalp.• Scalp manipulations increase the circulation of the blood

to the scalp, rest and soothe the nerves, stimulate the muscles and the activity of the scalp glands.

• The treatment of the hair and scalp includes regular shampoo and scalp massage services as well as special treatments for hair and scalp conditions.

Shampoo – its purpose is to cleanse the scalp and hair.

Characteristics of a Good Shampoo• Shampoos do not contain harsh alkali.• Usually leave the hair in a more manageable condition.• Requirements of a good shampoo product.• It should cleanse the hair of oils, debris and dirt.• It should work efficiently in hard, as well as soft, water.• It should not irritate the eyes or skin.• It should leave the hair and scalp in their naturals conditions.Caution: do not suggest a scalp treatment if abrasions or lesions are

present; advice clients with serious or contagious scalp disorders to consult a physician, barbers should not treat scalp diseases caused by parasitic or staphylococcus infections, clients with abnormal scalp conditions should be referred to a physician and never use a scalp or hair-treatment product that contains alcohol before applying high frequency current. Such products can only be safely applied after the high frequency treatment.

Hot oil treatment • Local hot oil treatment or home made scalp treatment

preparation.Kakang-gata: this is first extract from grated coconut.Coconut oil: the oil can be obtained by cooking the kakang-

gata.Sabi-gata: this treatment is a mixture of the sap of the sabila

plant or aloe.• Commercial hot oil treatment.Draping• Client comfort and protection must always be considered

during barbering services.• Drapes: protective covering used in barbering services to

protect client’s clothing and skin.

Combs and BrushesPurpose:1. Massages the scalp2. Removes loose scales3. Stimulate blood supply.4. Promote healthy hair growth

Types of combs and brushesWide-toothed comb: designed to detangle and smooth out towe-dried hairSmall toothed comb: used for smoOthing and finishing short or straight hairstylesVented brush: have multiple rows of tines (widely-set) along a base with air holes

or openings to allow air to circulate easily. Give hair height and volume as well as some directions.

Round or curved/styler brush: have rows of lines on a round or curved base and are designed for use in blow-dry styling to add soft curve. Best used on the bob shape cuts and mid length hair.

Paddle brushes: have rows of tines on a flat base and are used in blow-dry straightened styles to keep the hair smooth and flat.

Basic hair cutsOne length (bob): the whole shape of the cut tends to look

triangular, more width at the bottom edge than anywhere else.Layered cut: is cut all over head at varying angles following a guide

length.Graduated cut: is cut and held away from the outside edge. Reducing

weight and fullness on that edge and moving it to a higher line.Sectioning and PartingSectioning involves dividing the hair into manageable controllable

areas. A basic sectioning pattern would be to part the head from the centre of the forehead to the centre of the nape, and across the head from ear to ear.

Partings are divisions of the larger sections of hair into smaller more manageable areas that enable you to work progressively and methodically.

Hairstylingis the art of arranging the hair with attractive shapes and styles. Choosing the hairstyle depends on various factors. An important factor is the shape of the face, life style, distribution, quantity and texture of the hair, the curliness or straightness and height.

Hairstyling techniques• Traditional: finger waving, roller setting, pin curling,

molding the hair, combination of roller and pin curl.• Thermal styling: electrical irons, crimpers and hot

rollers

Hair settingis an art of creating curls or weaving.

Methods of hair settingPin curl

are also called sculpture curls. It is a strand of hair wound into a continuous coil and secured in place with a hairpin or pin curl clip. It is used to create good lines, waves, ringlets, curls and rolls.

Patterns used in pin curling1. Clockwise direction2. Counterclockwise direction3. Alternate direction4. Horsehoe pattern

Roller curlis a way of setting the hair by winding a wet strand of hair around a specially made roller. It is used to achieve the height and fullness of a particular hairstyle.

Patterns in roller setting1. Straight back pattern2. Side pattern3. Bang effect pattern4. Dropped crown pattern

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