approved bybos on 12/12/2020 - davangere university

-,t

Davangere UniversityDepartment of Studies in Fashion Design

Syllabus for M.Sc. Fashion DesignWith effect from Academic Year 2020-21 onwards

(Under Choice Based Credit Scheme: CBCS)

Approved by BOS on 12/12/2020

Submitted to,The Registrar

Davangere UniversityShivagangothriDavangere.

Submitted by,Dr. Manasa. D. J

CoordinatorDepartment of Studies in Fashion Design

Department of Studies in Fashion DesignDavangere University

ShivagangothriDavangere-577007.

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DAVANGERE UNIVERSITYDEPARTMENT OF STUDIES IN FASHION DESIGN

Shivagangothri, Tholahunase, Davangere-577007, Karnataka. Ph-08192-208029Fax: 08192-208008• Dr. Manasa D. J.Assistant Professor and Coordinator

Email: [email protected]: 7892631239,9480650438

No: DU: FD: 2020-21113 Date: 12/12/2020

PROCEEDINGS OF THE MEETING OF THE BOARD OF STUDIES IN FASHIONDESIGN - PG

The meeting of the Board of studies in Fashion Design was held on 1z" December 2020through online platform via Zoom App at 11.00am. Following are the members of the Board.

1. Dr. Dr. Sadhana D. Kulloli Chairman2. M. G. Hegde Member3. Dr. Ashok A Itagi Member4. Dr. Ramesh S.N Member5. Dr. Manasa. D. J Member

Agenda for Meeting:1. Formation of First and Second semester syllabus for MSc in Fashion Design for the academic

year 2020-21.2. Formation of Panel of examiners for the academic year 2020-21.3. Formation of semester examination theory, practical and internal question paper pattern.4. The board members discussed the issues in the agenda and resolved as under:

Agenda No. 01: Formation of First and Second semester syllabus for MSc in Fashion Designfor the year 2020-21.

Action plan taken: The members of the board discussed the importance of all the subjects andresolved to approve the syllabus to be introduced for the first and second semester of MSc inFashion Design for the academic year 2020-21.

Agenda No. 02: Constitution of Panel of Examiners for the academic year 2020-21.

Action plan taken: The Board members discussed the issue and have finalized the names of 17professors and approved to be involved in panel of examiners for the academic year 2020-21.

•

Agenda No. 03: Formation of semester (Theory and Practical) and internal examinationquestion paper pattern.

Action plan taken: The members of the Board discussed the matter and formed a pattern ofquestion paper for semester (Theory and Practical) and internal examination to be implementedfor the academic year 2020-21.

The committee has discussed all the matters of the agenda and the necessary action plans weretaken to resolve the issues and given the approval.

SI. No Name Position Signature01 Dr. Sadhana D. Kulloli Chairman

02 M. G. Hegde Member

03 Dr. Ashok A Itagi Member

04 Dr. Ramesh S.N Member

05 Dr. Manasa. D. J Member

M.Sc. in FASHION DESIGN(From the Academic Year 2020 ONWARDS)

Semester scheme with Choice-Based Credit system (CBCS)

COURSE STRUCTURE

M.Sc Fashion Design I Semester

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Course Code Title Teaching Credits Examination Internal TotalHlWeek Assesment

Core Theory Textile 4 4 70 30 100FD 1.1 Manufacturing

ProcessCore Theory Apparel Design 4 4 70 30 100

FD 1.2Core Theory Apparel 4 4 70 30 100

FD 1.3 ManufacturingTechnology

Core Theory Fashion 4 4 70 30 100FD 1.4 Illustration and

DesignCore Practical Textile 4 2 40 10 50

FD 1.5 ManufacturingProcess

Core Practical Principles of 4 2 40 10 50FD 1.6 Design and

Application toTextiles

Core Practical Basic of Garment 4 2 40 10 50FD 1.7 Construction

Core Practical Fashion 4 2 40 10 50

I FD 1.8 Illustration andDesign

Mandatory Credits: English 2 2Languauge communication skillTotal 34 26 600

Note: Internal assessment: Tests- 12 (Two tests of 06 each), Seminar- 06, Assessment-06,attendance-06 for each paper

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I semester MSc.in Fashion Design- TheoryCORE FD 1.1: TEXTILE MANUFACTURING PROCESS

Theory (64 h)

Objectives:y To accustom students with the essential information of the textile process course.y To suit the product and fields of application

Textile Manufacturing Process and Products64 hUnit 1 Textile Fibers -Definition, Classification and Manufacturing of textile 6h

fibres. Physical & Chemical properties of natural fibres (Cotton, Linen,Wool, Silk and lute) and man-made fibres (Polyester, Nylon, Acrylic,Spandex I Lycra, Viscose Rayon &Tencel).

Unit 2 Series of spinning processes; objective and working principles of Blow 6hroom, Carding, Draw frame and Comber. Influence of fibre property onvarious techniques of spun yam process. Suitability of spun yamsproduced with different techniques for specific products in various fields.Study of special methods of producing filaments.

Unit 3 Weaving processes - Warp winding, Warping, Sizing and Pirn winding. 6hPrimary and Secondary & Auxiliary motions of power loom. Shuttle-lessloom - working Principles of Air jet, Water jet, Projectile and Rapier loom.Controls m shuttle and shuttles weavmg machines. Yam qualityrequirements for weaving domestic and export products.

Unit 4 Learning of dobby and jacquard woven products. Introduction to jacquard 6hknitting machine. Wrap patterning and gaiting of needles. Fabric defects -types, causes and remedies. Knitted fabric structure: Tightness factor,dimensional properties, spirality-relaxation- shrinkage. Dimensionalcharacteristics of warp knits warp knitted fabric geometry - relationbetween loop length and construction, fabric relaxation and shrinkage.

Unit 5 Technical Fabric Structures- Woven and Knitted. Non-Woven-Types of 6hlaying-Chemical bonding- Thermal bonding- Solvent bonding- Hydro

r--entanglement.

Unit 6 Mechanical properties and tactile pressure sensations of the fabric. Fabric 6hprickliness, itchiness, stiffness, softness, smoothness, roughness, andscratchiness, garment fit and pressure, comfort - general aspects,construction factors, dimensional changes and the effects of fit on comfort.

Unit 7 History of knitting, Hand knitting, terms used in knitting, weft knitting & 6hwarp knitting. Weft knitted structures- properties and uses- plain -Rib-interlock and Purl along with derivatives- types of stitches. Warp knittedstructures- properties and uses.

Unit 8 Latest Knitting machines, weft and warp knitting machines. Knitwear 6hproduction-Machineries: Flat bed, circular & stock knitting machines,categories of knitted garments -fully cut, stitch shaped cut, fully fashionedand integral garments, seams, seam finishes & stitches, machinery used,pre-production and production, finishing and precautions in apparelproduction.

Unit 9 Knitted garment manufacture: Cutting - stitching - quality control of 6hknitted garments- knit wear garment designs and developments.

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Unit 10 Introduction to knitwear designing-Factors influencing knitwear designing, 6hfashion as applied to knitwear-past present and future. Innovations inknitwear-Recent trends In knit wear-seamless garment construction,surface embellishments on knitwear, knits in interiors and computer aideddesigning in knitwear.

Unit 11 Knitted fabric defects. Quality control of knitted garments-Fabric quality- 4hweight per unit area, tightness factor, knitted faults, pilling. Garmentquality-spreading, cutting, sewing and final inspection.

•References:

1.David J Spencer, "Knitting Technology", Wood Head Publishing Limited, England, 2001.2. Hu, J "Structure and Mechanics of Woven Fabrics", Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Wood

Head Publishing Ltd., 2004.3. Kothari V K,"Fabric Comfort", Proc. of the Seminar on Comfort in Textiles, held at lIT Delhi,

New Delhi, 2004.4. Li Y, "The Science of Clothing Comfort", Textile Progress, Vol.3I, No.I/2, The Textile Institute,

2001.5. Lord P R, "Hand book of yarn production: Technology, Science and Economics", Woodhead

Publishing, 2003.6. Sabit Adanur, "Handbook of Weaving", Technomic Publishing Co., Inc., India, 2001.7. David Spencer, "Knitting Technology", Pergamon Press, Oxford, 2001.

8. George A Tay, "Fundamentals of weft knitted fabrics", National Knitwear and SportswearAssociation,New York, USA, 1996.

9. Jay Diamond, Ellen Diamond, "The World of Fashion", 3rd Edition, Fairchild Publication, 2002.

10. Sandy Black, "Knitwear in Fashion", Thames and Hudson Publication, 2002.

11.Temy Brackenbury, "Knitting Clothing Technology", Blackwell Publishing, 2005.

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I semester MSc., Fashion Design- TheoryCORE FD 1.2: APPAREL DESIGN

Objectives:

~ To impart basic skills in pattern making~ To acquaint students with knowledge in apparel designing

Apparel Design64 h

Unit 1 Introduction to pattern making and clothing construction- terminology, tools 8hand equipments, principles and applications of pattern making techniques-drafting, flat pattern- dart manipulation and draping techniques. Layout ofpaper pattern, marking, cutting and stay stitching. Methods of layout andcutting: general and special pattern layout procedures for napped, plaid,checks, stripes and print fabrics. Importance and functions of clothes. Patternalteration, types of grading

Unit 2 Design Concepts: Elements and principles of design, application of design 3hconcepts in fabrics and fashion products.

Unit 3 Measurements for pattern design- individual and standard measurements, 4hmeasuring techniques- individual, dress forms, human figure, measurementsfor fit and pattern size.

Unit 4 Body garment relationship- Ideal figure, figure types, figure analysis, garment 10hdesign, fabric characteristics & design, structural frame work, contours,proportions, height and weight distribution.

. Unit 5: Fitting strategies, fit components, fit evaluation, fitting check and custom 5hmade clothing, commercial patterns.

Unit 6 Designing for special categories: Features and functions of formal, casual and 12hethnic clothing for various categories and occasions, designing for Infants,maternity wear, plus sizes, elderly citizens, uniforms and physically andmentally challenged.

Unit 7 Intimate apparel, lingerie and other special categories: Evolution of styles 6hfrom antiquity to modern, design and current trends in intimate apparel,lingerie and body suit categories.

Unit 8 Stitching strategies- stitch classification, securing, temporary, permanent, 5hdecorative, principles of hand and machine stitches, stitch and threadselection.

Unit 9 The mechanics of fashion: Role of fashion designers in fashion industry. The 5hfashion design process adapted by designers. Leading fashion designers ofIndia and the world.

I Unit 10 Prevailing fashion trends and forecast for fibres, yarns, colours, trends and 6hforecast for various fashion categories for children, men and women.

References:1.ArmstrongHelen Joseph, Pattern Making for Fashion Design, 3rd edition, Prentice Hall, 1999.2. Bernard zamkoff and Jeanne Price, creative Pattern "Skills for Fashion Design "FairchildPublications, 1990.3. Frances LetoZangrillo, "Fashion Design for the Plus-size", Fairchild Pub., 1999.4. GavinWadddell," How Fashion works", Blackwell Publishing, 2005.

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5. Laver, James, "Costumes & Fashions: A concise history". London: Thames & Hudson, 1982.6. Sharon Lee Tate, "Inside Fashion Design", Harper& Row Pub, NY.

I semester MSc.,in Fashion Design- TheoryCore FD 1.3: APPAREL MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY

Objectives:~ To provide an insight into industrial aspects of apparel manufacturing.~ To familiarize students with various tools, equipments used and the process involved in

apparel production.

• APPAREL MANUFACTURING TECHNOLOGY 64 hUnit 1 Introduction to Indian Apparel Industry: Organizational structure and sectors 10h

of the garment industry, apparel product types, developments in recent years,opportunities and challenges in Indian apparel sector, over view of globalapparel industry, major trends in international apparel technologicalconcepts.

Unit 2 Overview of industrial sewing machines: Features, mechanism, working 10hprinciple and application of Single and Double needle Lock stitch machines(SNLS and DNLS machines), over lock machine, blind stitch machine,button sewer and buttonhole machines, bar tack machines. Study ofcompatibility of stitch classes and needle types used in industrial sewingmachines, seam types and its application. Selection & application of bedtypes, machine attachment types, profiles, feed mechanism for differenttypes of fabrics & garment style variation.

Unit 3 Pre production process: sampling, pattern and marker preparation, fabric and 8haccessory procurement, sample type approvals. Garment production:Sequence of production operations for shirts, trousers, jackets, skirts andvests. Trims - Complete trim details-types, significance of each, sourcing,etc. - Types of trim -shoulder pads, buttons, thread, labels, hang tags, sizedisc, hanger, hook and bar, zippers, pocketing etc. - Trim calculation basedon cutting tickets

Unit 4 Fabric spreading technology: Inspection of fabric and it's control-4 point 8hfabric inspection system, forms of spreading for different types of fabrics,lay types, spreading modes, spreading methods & machines- manual andmechanical methods. Advanced spreading machines: Semi automatic andautomatic-programmable spreading machine. Advantages of CAD markervis manual marker. - Understanding of pattern & methods in laying patterns.

Unit 5 Cutting technology: Cutting techniques, considerations of cutting parameters 8hfor different fabrics Cutting machines and its working principle, recentadvancements in cutting technology- semi automated and automated cuttingmachines, working environment and safety measures.

Unit 6 Sewing room - Machines-Types, uses and applications - Use of attachments 7h- Sewing-Stitch types and Properties - Various techniques of production insewing room - Make through - Modular manufacturing - Assembly Line -Advantages and disadvantages of each.

Unit 7 Fusing technology: Fusing materials, components of fusing, types of resin 5hcoating & its applications for various apparel products, selection of fusingmachines types, working principle and their application. Quality problemsassociated with fusing materials.

Unit 8 Pressing and folding process: Steam boilers, pressing tables, machinery and 8hequipments, types of folds, folding equipment and accessories. Packing:

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Function and scope of packing, packing methods, instructions, materials,weight, ratio, and labelling considerations for shipment by air and sea,packing marks, warehousing - assortment and storage methods.

References

1. Chuter. A. 1." Introduction to clothing production management", Blackwell publishing, 2ndEdition, 1995.

2. Carr& Latham, (2008), Technology of Clothing Manufactures - 4th Edition, Australia, BlackwellPublishers.

3. Claire Shaeffer, "Sewing for the Apparel Industry", Prentice-Hall, 1st Edition, 2001.4. Gerry Cooklin, "Introduction to Clothing Manufacturers", Blackwell publishing, 2nd Edition,

2006.5. Harold Carr& Barbara Latham, "The Technology of Clothing Manufacture", Blackwell

publishing, 4th edition, 2008.6. Harold Carr, "The Clothing Factory, Clothing & Footwear Insltitute", Blackwell Science, 1992.7. Jacob Solinger. 1980.Apparel Manufacture. Van NostrandReilfold.8. Patty Brown, Jane Rice RN CMA, "Ready-to-Wear Apparel Analysis", Prentice Hall, 3rd

Edition, 2000.9. Richard Jones, "The Apparel Industry", Wiley-Blackwell, 2nd Edition, 2006.10. Ruth E. Glock , (2005), Apparel Manufacturing : Sewn Production Analysis, New Delhi,

Pearson Education Indian Publishers.11.Thomas Anna Gawb, "The Art of Sewing", UBS Publishers Distributers ltd. 1994.

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I semester MSc., Fashion Design- TheoryCore FD 1.4: FASHION ILLUSTRATION AND DESIGN

Theory: 64 h

Objectives:y To impart advanced knowledge in fashion design.y To impart knowledge about designing for special categories.

FASHION ILLUSTRATION AND DESIGN 64 hUnit 1 Design Concepts: Elements and principles of design, application of design 3h

concepts in fabrics and fashion products.Unit 2 Couture: Meaning and place in the fashion industry, organization, 8h

controlling bodies, International couture, decline and revival of couture,characteristics and specialties.

Unit 3 Ready-to-wear: Definition, origin, evolution of utility clothing, design 7hprocess, manufacturing techniques, work rooms and studios, factors in thegrowth of the industry, contribution of various cultures to ready-to-wearindustry.

Unit 4 Mass Production: Process, production, sizing, design strategies, lines within . 7ha design house, offshore production and new trends.

Unit 5: Designing of apparels for specialty shows: Introduction, need for specialty 7hshows, different categories- Fashion shows, trade shows, collection shows.

Unit 6 Designing for special categories: Infants, maternity, plus-size, old-age, 7hphysically challenged.

Unit 7 Designing of intimate apparels: Evolution of styles from antiquity to 10hmodem, fibers, fabrics & accessories used, types of intimate apparels,relationship between intimate apparel designs and ready-to-wear designs.

Unit 8 Designing with leather and fur: Materials, production procedures- 8hprocessing, finishing and apparel production, styles, laws and regulations,marketing and scope.

Unit 9 Home fashions: Evolution of designs in home fashions, Categories of home 7hfurnishing products - upholstery, table, bed and bath linen, styles, licensingand retailing of home fashions.

References:1.Frances LetoZangrillo, "Fashion Design for the Plus-size", Fairchild Publication, 1999.2. GavinWadddell, "How Fashion works", Blackwell Publishing, 2005.3. Jay Diamond, Ellen Diamond, "The World of Fashion", Fairchild Publication, 3rd Edition, 2002.4. Laver, James, "Costumes & Fashions: A concise history", Thames & Hudson, 1982.5. Rubin LG, "The World of Fashion", Canfield press, 1976.

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I semester MSc Fashion Design - Practical

CORE FD 1.5: TEXTILE MANUFACTURING PROCESS

Practical Syllabus 16 Practical of 4 H each

FASHION ILLUSTRATION AND DESIGNUnit 1 Yam test for its quality- Yam unevenness, Hairiness, Strength 3Unit 2 Collection of yam samples with associated products 3Unit 3 Determination of geometric properties of woven and knitted fabrics. 6

Wovens: Yam linear density, GSM, thread density, crimp, cover factor.

Knitted fabrics: Course per inch, wale per inch, thickness, GSM, looplength, count of yam and tightness of the fabric.

Unit 4 Structural analysis of woven and knitted fabrics (10 types). 4

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CORE FD 1.6: PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN AND APPLICATION TO TEXTILES


Objectives:

Y To develop aesthetic and creative sensibilities and communication.Y To provide a good understanding and application of mixed media, materials, techniques and

methods for creative expression.

PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN AND APPLICATION TO TEXTILES 16practical

Unit 1 Basic designing - introduction, principles and classification of woven and 4printed textile designs. Design development and arrangement - natural,stylized, geometrical, abstract and traditional motifs. Enlargement andreduction, vanous types of repeats and placements for vanousapplications. Effect of yarn, weave, colour and finishing processes oftextiles on design.

Unit 2 General role of design. Methods of creating motifs, symmetry of motif, 2unit basis for motif and design repeat. Repeat on weave basis- plain, twilland satin. Scattered and all-over patterns.

Unit 3 Introduction to traditional and contemporary designs: Design profile of 4traditional and contemporary design, creating new textures and sketchingof traditional and contemporary design using different mediums.

Unit 4 Thematic process of motif development: Sources for basic sketching and 4painting. Inspiration from traditional and contemporary designs: Nature,religion mythology, art, crafts, architecture, historical textiles, paintingsfrom various countries and cultures

Unit 5 Product development portfolio with the designs created for apparel and 2interiors. Preparation of swatch book of fabric samples of different typesof structural and decorative designs.

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CORE FD 1.7: BASICS OF GARMENT CONSTRUCTION


BASICS OF GARMENT CONSTRUCTION 16practical

Unit - 1 Clothing construction - introduction and basic terminologies used in 1garment construction. Equipment and accessories used in clothingconstruction: Measuring and Marking Tools, Cutting, Sewing andFinishing equipment

Unit 2 Sewingmachine- different kinds-functions-uses-attachment-practice 2on paper, stitching on fabric (straight, curves, comers and circular)

Unit 3 Sketching the Basic sewing machine and parts, threading the Single 2needle machine, loading bobbin and bobbin case, fixing andremoving the needle, care and maintenance of sewing machines,

f--: oiling.Unit 4 Basic hand stitching- basting, running, tacking, hand overcast, 2

buttonhole, hemming stitches - plain & blind hemming, slip stitch,tailor's tack. Raw edge finishes - binding, buttonhole, hemming,herring bone, machining, overlocking, oversewing, pinking, slipstitch and whip stitch.

Unit 5 Seam finishing- Plain, flat fell, French, turned & stitched, lapped, 2double top, pinked, over lock, & pinked and stitched

Unit 6 Fullness, ease and types: darts, gathers and shirring - hand and 2machine; pleats - knife, side, box and inverted box; tucks - vertical,horizontal, diagonal and criss-cross

Unit 7 Taking body measurements: Importance, classification and method 3of taking body measurements. Pattern preparation for women'susing Drafting, flat pattern and draping principles

Unit 8 Methods of Layout and Cutting: Pattern layout procedure, Special 1layout considerations: Napped, Plaid, Checks, Stripers and Printfabrics

Unit 9 Preparation of fabrics for garment construction: Preshrinking - 1Washable and non washable; Straightening-Methods toStraightening for Woven and knits; Trueing - bow and skewness.Grain and its importance in clothing construction

References1. Bane Allyne, Flat pattern design, McGrawHill pub... USA2. Gerry Cooklin, Introduction to Clothing Manufacture, Blackwell Science, UK, 1991

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3. Harold Carr& Barbara Latham, The Technology of Clothing Manufacture, Oxford Pub.,USA, 1994

4. Helen J Armstrong, Pattern Making for Fashion Design, Prentice Hall5. Patrie Taylor et.a!., Grading for the fashion industry, StanelyThomes ltd., 19906. Winfred Aldrich .. Metric Pattern Cutting .. Blackwell Science, UK press, 1980


CORE FD 1.8: FASHION ILLUSTRATION AND DESIGN


Objective:

~ To understand fashion illustration concepts and techniques.

FASHION ILLUSTRATION AND DESIGN 16practical

Unit - 1 Different Lines - Vertical, Horizontal, Diagonal, Wavy, zigzag, Dotted, 3Dashed, Spiral etc. Free hand drawing techniques of brush and pencil andrelated exercises. Introduction to different mediums- Poster Colour, PhotoColour, Fuji Colour, Water Colour, Drawing Ink, Steadlers, Sudha DryCrayons, Charcoal Pencil, Charcoal Stick, Pencil. Basic drawing techniquesand sketching, nature study (Flowers and leaves).

Unit 2 Rendering different mediums - Pencil (Charcoal, Staedtlers), Poster, Water, 3Oil, Pastel and Ink. Colour and Colour Wheel. Colour Schemes -Monochromatic, Achromatic, Polychromatic, Adjacent, Complementary,Warm, Cool, Rainbow Pastels, Tints and Shades and using them 10Geometrical, Abstract and Realistic Designs

Unit 3 Sketching basic Block Figure - Kids. Sketching of basic 8, 10 and 12 Head 4Croqui, Fashion Poses, Facial features and Hair style. Sketching arms andlegs. Flesh figure in different poses.

Unit 4 Draping garments on Croquis. Introduction to Fashion Details - Various 4Silhouettes & Construction Details. Illustrating different types of lines in agarment, line effects in the same silhouette-any 5 types. Creating Checkedeffects in a garment -one colour and more than one colour. Creating printedeffects in a garment -one colour arid more than one colour. Drawing fromPhotographs -any 2 garment designs

Unit 5 Introduction to Design Development - Inspiration Board, Mood Board, Story 2Board, Colour Board and Swatch Board. Flat Sketches. Art Plates -Collection of Croquis IFashion Plates. Portfolio Presentation

REFERENCES1. ElizabettaDrudi and Tiziana, (2010), Figure Drawing for Fashion Design, Netherland, Pepin

Press.2. KathrynMckelvey, (2006), Fashion Source Book, United States, Wiley Publications.3. KathrynMcKelvey "Illustrating Fashion" by Blackwell Science.4. Patrick John Ireland, (2009), New Encyclopaedia of Fashion Details: Over 100's Fashion

Details, London, Batsford.

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5. Alferd D. Dortennzio, (1998), Fashion Sketching, New York, Delmer Publishers.6. Bina Abling, (2001), Fashion Rendering with Colours, New Jersey, Prentice7. Bina Abling, " Fashion Sketch Book", 2006 by Fairchild Publication8. Stan Smith, "The Illustration handbook" 1984 by Macdonld Co.9. Julian Seaman, "Professional Fashion Illustration" by B.T. Batsford Ltd.10. Ireland Patrick John, "Fashion Design Drawing Presentation", 1996 B.T. Batsford Ltd.11. Allen and Seaman, "Fashion Drawing- The Basic Principles" 1994, B.T. Batsford, London.

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M.Sc Fashion Design II Semester

..

Course Code Title Teaching Credits Examination Internal TotalHlWeek Assessment

Core Theory Fashion Design 4 4 70 30 100and Interior

FD2.1 Textiles

Core Theory Apparel Costing 4 4 70 30 100

FD2.2

Core Theory Apparel Quality 4 4 70 30 100Control and

FD2.3 Standards

Core Theory Fashion 4 4 70 30 100

FD2.4Merchandisingand Marketing

Core Practical Advanced 4 2 40 10 50Garment

FD2.5 Construction

Core Practical Pattern Making 4 2 40 10 50

FD2.6and Grading

Core Practical Pattern 4 2 40 10 50

FD2.7Development andDraping

Core Practical Computer Aided 4 2 40 10 50Apparel and

FD2.8 FashionDesigning

Mandatory Credits: Computer skill 2 2

Total 34 26 600

Note: Internal assessment: Tests- 12 (Two tests of 06 each), Seminar- 06, Assessment-06, attendance-06 for each paper

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II semester MSc.in Fashion Design- TheoryCORE FD 2. t: FASHION DESIGNING AND INTERIOR TEXTILES

Theory (64 h)

Objectives:o To impart advanced knowledge in fashion design.o To impart knowledge about designing for special categories.FASHION DESIGN AND INTERIOR TEXTILES 64 hUnit 1 Design Concepts: Elements and principles of design, application of 2h

design concepts in fabrics and fashion products.Unit 2 Couture: Meaning and place in the fashion industry, organization, 6H

controlling bodies, International couture, decline and revival of couture,characteristics and specialties.

Unit 3 Ready-to-wear: Definition, origin, evolution of utility clothing, design 6Hprocess, manufacturing techniques, work rooms and studios, factors inthe growth of the industry, contribution of various cultures to ready-to-wear industry.

Unit 4 Mass Production: Process, production, sizing, design strategies, lines 6Hwithin a design house, offshore production and new trends

Unit 5 Designing of apparels for specialty shows: Introduction, need for 6Hspecialty shows, different categories- Fashion shows, trade shows,collection shows.

Unit 6 Designing for special categories: Infants, maternity, plus-size, old-age, 6Hphysically challenged.

Unit 7 Designing of intimate apparels: Evolution of styles from antiquity to 6Hmodern, fibers, fabrics & accessories used, types of intimate apparels,relationship between intimate apparel designs and ready-to-wear designs.

Unit 8 Designing with leather and fur : Materials, production procedures- 6Hprocessing, finishing and apparel production, styles, laws andregulations, marketing and scope.

Unit 9 Home fashions: Evolution of designs in home fashions, Categories of 6Hhome furnishing products - upholstery, table, bed and bath linen, styles,licensing and retailing of home fashions.

Unit 10 Fundamental principles of interior textiles: classification of interior 2Htextiles. Types -Natural and synthetic fibres for interior textiles; the useof knitted, woven and nonwoven fabrics in interior textiles. Theircharacteristics and application in interiors.

Unit 11 Interior textiles from antiquity to modern -Surface design of fabrics for 2Hinterior textiles. Use of textiles in carpets and floor coverings. Specialfinishes for carpets and floor coverings, its care and maintenance.

Unit 12 Developments in interior textiles: Upholstery fabrics for interiors. 2HMethods and innovative textiles for seating. Advances in joining fabricsfor the furniture industry.

Unit 13 Development and characteristics of interior textiles for automotive, 4Hlocomotives and aeroplanes, hospitals and hospitality industry.

Unit 14 Environmental issues in interior textiles: A brief overview of green 4Hmaterials used for textiles for interiors. Role of textiles in indoorenvironmental pollution- problems and solutions. Current trends andforecast on interior textiles.

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References:

1. Frances LetoZangriIlo, "Fashion Design for the Plus-size", Fairchild Publication, 1999.2. Gavin WadddeIl, "How Fashion works", Blackwell Publishing, 2005.3. Jay Diamond, Ellen Diamond, "The World of Fashion", Fairchild Publication, 3rd Edition, 2002.4. Laver, James, "Costumes & Fashions: A concise history", Thames & Hudson, 1982.5. Rubin LG, "The World of Fashion", Canfield press, 1976.6. Chambers B.G. "Colour and design, Fashion in Men'ts Women"s Clothing and furnishings"

Prentice Hall. Inc. Newyork, 1951.

7. Erwin, Kinchen and Peter, "Clothing for Modems" Mcmillan publishing compare, In. New York,6th Edition, 1976.

8. Gisela Hein, "Fabric printing", B.T. Batsford Ltd, London, 1972.9. Hamyln, "Me.Calls Sewing in Colour", The Hamyln Publishing Corporation limited, 1975.10. JasleenDhamija, "The Indian Folk, Arts and Crafts", National Book Trust India, New Delhi,

1992.

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II semester MSc.in Fashion Design- TheoryCORE FD 2.2 APPAREL COSTING

Objectives:• To familiarize students with apparel costing methods and techniques.

APPAREL COSTING 64 h

Unit 1 Cost accounting: Classification of cost elements- direct and indirect. 8hDetermination of factory cost, administration cost and sales cost of anapparel product. Manufacturing cost account statement - preparation andanalysis, cost behavior patterns - fixed, variable, serru variable.Calculations related to job order costing and process costing.

Unit 2 Accounting for factory overhead: Capacity level concepts, production and 6hservice departments, indirect costs, over and under applied overhead.

Unit 3 Cost volume profit analysis: Break-even analysis, Contribution margin, 8hvariable, cost ratio, marginal income. Sales mix by garment style, effectof volume change, price/volume analysis.

Unit 4 Standard Costing: Variance analysis, setting cost standards, price variance 8hanalysis for material, labour and overheads. Determination of standardcost for weaving, knitting and processing cost of wovenlknitted fabrics.Fabric cost - stripe/ checked, printed and embroidery and special finishedgoods.

Unit 5 Determining pricing of apparels: Price elasticity of demand and supply, 8hSample costing-marginal revenue and marginal cost. Assortment orderplanning -cost determination, size and colourwise - men's, women's andchildren's wears.

Unit 6 Pricing methods: Cost plus pricing methods / full cost pricing, conversion 6hcost pricing, differential cost pricing; variable cost pricing, direct costpricing. Derivation of cost of apparel products - woven / knits. CM, CMTcost analysis for various styles.

Unit 7 Activity based costing, Cost analysis for various styles of garments. 6hFOB/CIF/C&F pricing of apparels.

Unit 8 Budgeting process: Budgeting principles for the apparel industry, fixed 6hvs. flexible budget, master budget, limitations of budgets.

Unit 9 Spec sheet preparation for three garments 4hUnit 10 Project proposal for setting up a new garment unit. 4h

Referencesl. Bhabatosh Banerjee, "Cost Accounting", Word Press, 11th Revised Edition, 2001.2. Blocher, Edward, "Cost Management: A strategic Emphasis", McGraw Hill,

London, 2002.3. Hansen, Don R, "Cost Management Accounting and Control", Ohio Thomson,

4thEdition, 2003.4. Hilton, Ronald W, "Cost Management: Strategies for Business Decisions", McGraw

Hill, London, International Edition, 2000.5. Richord D Irwin, "Principles of Cost Accounting: Managerial Applications",

Excel books, India, 2001.6. William Lanen, "Fundamentals of Cost Accounting", McGraw-Hill/Irwin, 3rd

Edition, 2010.

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7.II semester MSc.in Fashion Design- Theory

CORE FD 2.3 Apparel Quality Control and StandardsNo. of Teaching Hours: 64

Objectives:• To familiarize students with advanced apparel quality tests and standards

Apparel Quality Control and Standards 64 h

Unit 1 Introduction to quality control and standards: Evolution of quality, quality 10 hplanning, quality control, quality assurance, total quality managementcontributions of Deming, Juran and Crosby, Quality Management SystemOrganizing, planning and implementation.Quality standards: importance, benefits, levels and sources of standards- ISO,AATCC, ASTM, BS, BIS, DIN.

Unit 2 Quality Specifications: Yarns, fabrics & trims defect analysis and rectification. 8 hGarment Standards and Specifications: Analysis of pre-sample specification ofgarment or apparel product, understanding quality assurance in terms ofmeasurement, sewing operations and finishes as per the specification sheet andgarments defect analysis.

Unit 3 Eco management of textile and apparel industry: Global scenario, eco textiles, 10 heco standards and certifications - ISO 14000, Eco-mark, Oeko Tex 100standards, GOTS, OHSAS, Green label, Green Seal.Eco specifications and restrictions in apparels and textiles: Sensitizing dyestuffs, allergic dyes, carcinogenic anions, red listed as per eco specifications,chemicals used in dry cleaning which deplete ozone, pH value, formaldehydecontents, heavy metal contents, pesticides and herbicides, azoic dyestuffsnickel pentachlorophenol, colour fastness, brighteners, softening agents, etc.

Unit 4 Fabric hand characteristics- Drape, bending, crease recovery, shear, bias 10 hextension, formability, friction- objective measurement by FAST & KES.Serviceability: Snagging, pilling, abrasion resistance, tearing strength, tensile,bursting, seam strength, seam slippage, flammability, soil resistance, soilrelease.

Unit 5 Aesthetics-Colour measurement, shade variation and colour fastness to 10 hwashing, light, perspiration, crocking and other agencies. Hygral expansion,relaxation shrinkage- methods of measuring dimensional change to drycleaning, dry heat and steam. Transmission characteristics - air permeability,heat transmission, light permeability, moisture transmission and waterpermeability.

Unit 6 Garment Quality tests for dimensions, fabric construction, weight, properties, 8 hstitch lines, seams, special stitches, finishes etc. Durability characteristics oftrims - resistance of zippers, buttons, snaps, buckles etc. to abrasion, burstingand corrosiveness.

Unit 7 Labelling: Introduction, labelling parameters, fibre content, care labelling and 4 hflammability, wash care labels, labelling systems - Canadian, American,European, Australian, Sweden, UK, Germany and Japan, Regulations forlabeling parameters, Eco-labelling.

l_jnit 8 Garment defects: Cutting defects, sewing defects, assembly defects, pressing, 4 hfinishing and packaging defects, and procedures of quality evaluation, revision

L_ _L~an~d~a~PEpr~o~v~a~ls~a~s~~sp~e~c~ifi~le~d~in~t~h~e~s~p~e~cl~·fi~lc~a~ti~o~n~s~h~e~et~.~ ,

17

References1. David H, "ISO 9000 quality system handbook", Butterworth publishing, New Delhi, 2006.2. Juran J M and Gryna, F M, "Quality Planning and Analysis - From Product Development throughUse", Tata McGraw Hill Publishing Limited, New Delhi, 2001.3. Pradeep V Mehta, "Managing Quality in Apparel Industry", NIFT publication.4. Sara J Kadolph, "Quality Assurance for Textiles and Apparels", Fairchild publications, 2ndEdition. 2007.5. Saville, B.P. "Physical testing of textiles", Woodhead Publishing Ltd and CRC Press LLC, 1999.

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II semester MSc.in Fashion Design- Theory

CORE FD 2.4 FASHION MERCHANDISING AND MARKETINGObjectives:

)i;> To familarise students with fashion merchandising and marketing concepts.)i;> To provide students with a broad perspective on emerging trends in merchandising &

challenges in marketing.

Fashion Merchandising and Marketing 64 h

Unit 1 Introduction to merchandising: Evolution, merchandising types, basic functions 3hof merchandising, merchandising technology, merchandiser'ts keyresponsibilities.

Unit 2 Meaning and classification of marketing. Domestic and export marketing: 3h

fashion marketing, fashion market size and structure, market types, businessstrategic planning, micro and macro environments, market development,problems and benefits.

Unit 3 Fashion advertising and preparation of advertising for apparel market. 4hAdvertising media used III apparel marketing. Advertising department,advertising agencies. Fashion sales promotional programme for apparelmarketing, communication and promotion, personal selling, point of purchase,sales promotion objectives, consumer sales promotion.

Unit 4 6 R"s of fashion merchandising, fashion forecasting, fashion interpretation, 4hmerchandise resource planning, elements of planning, capacity planning,merchandising calendar, KPI measurements, buying and selling seasons indifferent market.

Unit 5 Market Research: Research types, research objectives, developing research 6hplan, methods of sampling, data source & collection methods, data analysis,presenting findings, interpretation and implementation.

Unit 6 Consumer behaviour, target market and market segmentation. 2h

Unit 7 New product line development: Types of products, study apparel product lines, 4hproduct life cycle, brand management, idea generation, screening, concepttesting, test marketing, commercialization, product positioning, major reasonsfor product failure.

Unit 8 Preproduction activity: Pre-production & TNA meetings, sampling-developing 4hsamples, sample types, sample approvals, lab dip, yam dip, bit loom, strike offs,pre-costing and order follow-up.

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Unit 9 Purchase Management: Role and responsibilities of purchase department, 8hpurchase cycle, global sourcing methods, identification of vendors, vendoranalysis, evaluation of vendor, ratings criteria and selection procedure,negotiation and bargaining, vendor relations. Order confirmation, consumption,final costing, pricing, purchasing of raw materials, bill of materials, trim card,production file, and production follow-up.

Unit 10 Marketing mIX, assortment and range planning, promotional techniques, 6hdistribution channels, market intermediaries & logistics management.

Unit 11 Emerging trends and issues in marketing: Consumerism, rural marketing, social 8hmarketing, online marketing, and green marketing. Quality assurance and ITapplication in merchandising, Textile and apparel policies- FDI policies in retailsector.

Unit 12 Retail formats: Organized, unorganized formats, types of retail stores - 6hconvenience stores, super markets, departmental stores, hyper markets, lifestylestores, franchisee outlets & specialty stores.

Unit 13Global market and its participants in international marketing - Importance, 6hgrowth and benefits - international market place- goods and servicesmultinational corporations banks and insures trading companies - implicationsfor marketing management- GATT. Present export and import details.

References1. Del Hawkins, David Mothersbaugh , Amit Mookerjee, "Consumer Behavior: Building

Marketing Strategy", Tata McGraw Hill Education, 11thedition, 2012.2. Donnellan, John, "Merchandise Buying and Management", Fairchild Books, 3rd Edition,

2007.3. Grace I. Kunz, "Merchandising: Theory, Principles, and Practice", Fairchild Books, 3rd

Edition, 2009.4. Jeremy A. Rosenau, David L. Wilson, "Apparel Merchandising - The Line Starts Here",

Fairchild Books, 3rd Edition, 2006.5. Jung E. Ha-Brookshire, "Global Sourcing in the Textile and Apparel Industry", Prentice

Hall, 1stEdition, 2014.6. Philip Kotler, Kevin Keller, "Marketing Management", Prentice Hall, 14thEdition, 2011.7. Marketing, R.S.N. Pillai and Bagavathi, S. Chand & Co ltd NewDelhi-1987.8. Marketing Principle and methods by Philip C.F and Duneon D.T, Irwin publications.9. Principles of Marketing by Backman T.N. Maynard H.H and Davidson, W.R, Ronald Press

Company New York 1970.IO.Fashion Marketing by John Fayer Weather.ll.International Marketing by V.K.Kirpalani.

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II semester MSc.in Fashion Design- PracticalCORE FD 2.5 ADVANCED GARMENT CONSTRUCTION

No. of Practical: 16 (4h each)

Advanced Garment Construction 16practical

Unit 1 Dart Manipulation- conversion of darts to tucks, pleats, gathers, seamlines 2I etc. on women's wear-.

Unit 2 Sleeves- plain, gathered, raglan, kimono. 3

Collars-Peter pan, Turtle, Chinese and ShawlUnit 3 Yokes-With and without fullness, style lines 2

Unit 4 Pockets-Patch pockets, Patch pockets with flap, Seam pockets. 2

Unit 5 Preparation of muslin basic blocks, test fitting, front, back, sleeve and 2skirt, pattern alterations

,

Unit 6 Finishes- neckline finishes- facing, shaped facing and piping/binding, 2

Fastners -Press buttons, hooks, Shirt button, buttonhole, Velcro, zipperUnit 7 Plackets and finishing- continuous/ one piece, bound/ two piece 2

placket. Trimming- Lace fringes, tassels, mirror work,beadwork, Preparing poncho using these.

Unit 8 Designing & construction of garments with style features using drafting, 2flat pattern technique- kids wear, Casual ladies shirt, computerized patterndevelopment for children's, men and women's.

References:

1. Helen J Armstrong, Pattern making for Fashion Draping, 20092. Patrie Taylor et.al., Grading for the Fashion Industry, Stanley Thomas Ltd., 19903. Winfred Aldrich, Metric Pattern Cutting, Blackwell Science, UK.1988

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II semester MSc.in Fashion Design- PracticalCORE FD 2.6 Pattern Making and Grading

Objectives:• To understand the importance of pattern development.• To apply the knowledge of pattern development for creating structural designs.

Pattern Making and Grading 16practical

Unit 1 Introduction to Pattern Making 1./ Pattern making tools../ Pattern making terms.

Unit 2 Anthropometric measurements (in ems and inches): Study of various sizes and 1measurements: measurement charts, selection of right size, fitting problems.

Unit 3 Development of Child Bodice block and Sleeve Block 1

Unit 4 Development of Adult Bodice block and Sleeve block using metric system. 3Drafting of Sleeves:-Circular/ HandkerchiefBishop SleeveLantern SleeveJuliet SleeveSaddle SleeveDrop Shoulder Sleeve.

Unit 5 Drafting of Collars: 3./ Winged Collar./ Chelsea Collar./ Bishop Collar./ Coat Collar./ Shawl Collar./ Stand & Fall Collar./ Convertible Collar

Unit 6 Drafting of Skirts: 1./ Basic Skirt./ Wrap around skirt./ Handkerchief skirt

Unit 7 Developing contoured Patterns: 2./ Halter Style./ Off Shoulder./ Double Breasted

Unit 8 Dart Manipulation: 2Shifting of Darts by pivot method, slash and spread method on full scale.(One Exercise for each of the following)

./ Single Dart Series

./ Two Dart Series

./ Multiple Dart Series

./ Princess Line and Empire Style Lines

./ Style Darts

./ Yokes

./ GathersUnit 9 Introduction to grading-: Direct and Vector Method 2

./ Grading of Adult Bodice Block

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./ Grading of Full Sleeve

./ Grading of Skirt Block.

References

I .

1. Bernard Zamkoff and Jeanne Price, Creative Pattern Skills for Fashion Design(f.i.t. Collection), 1990, Publisher: Fairchild Books & Visual.

2. Helen Joseph Armstrong, Pattern making for Fashion Design, 2000, DorlingKindersley (India) Pvt. Ltd. India.

3. Sandra Betzina, Fast Fit - Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure, 2003 Taunton Pr.4. Gale Grigg Hazen, Fantastic Fit for Every Body, 1998,Published by Rodale Press5. Pati Palmer and Marta Alto Palmer, Fit for real People, 1998., PIetsch Inc.,6. KathleenMaggio, Altered Clothing.7. Pati Palmer and Susan PIetsch, Easy, Easier, Easiest Tailoring,; 2000., Published by

Palmeri PIetsch Inc.,

II semester MSc.in Fashion Design- PracticalCORE FD 2.7 Pattern Development and Draping

Objectives:

• To impart in depth knowledge of draping techniques.• To understand and analyze draping behaviour of different textile materials.•

Pattern Development and Draping 16practical

Unit 1 Introduction to draping: Draping terminology, tools and equipments, 1dress forms, elements of fabric behaviour, principles and techniques ofdraping. I

Unit 2 Draping of foundation patterns-Basic bodice, basic skirt I trousers, 4basic sleeve- Children and adults

Unit 3 Designing draped garments based on theme using following components 5with different fabrics

a. Bodice variations- dartless silhouettes, princess shape.b. Midriffs &Yokesc. Collarsd. Cuffse. Sleevesf. Pocketg.For upper garment, skirts I pants.

Unit 4 Design, develop and construct saree blouse using draping technique 2----~~.~- -- _.

Transformational Reconstruction (TR) technique for design and volume. 4Unit 5(TR cutting)

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Objectives:To facilitate the students to learn the application of pattern making software..To make the students to develop patterns and grade them digitally

II semester MSc.in Fashion Design- PracticalCORE FD 2.8 Computer Aided Apparel and Fashion Designing

Computer Aided Apparel and Fashion Designing 16practical

Unit 1 Introduction to pattern making software: Pattern design system (PDS) _ 2creating storage area, setting up and editing p-user environment table, notchtable and rule table.

Unit 2 Working tools: Creating and editing points, notches, lines and pieces 2

Unit 3 Digitizing procedure: Pattern preparation, digitizing and verification of 2patterns

Unit 4 Drafting basic blocks, annotation of patterns, modification of patterns as per 2style requirement of the garment, adding fullness - pleats, gathers, darts, dartmanipulation, seam allowances, shaping corners, rotating patterns withaccordance to grain line.

Unit 5 Grading: Selecting grading methods, editing rule table, size range, assigning 2rule table, grading patterns with x and yeo-ordinates.

Unit 6 Marker making: Marker making procedure, setting up model editor, 2annotation editor, block buffer editor, lay limit editor and order editor

--

Unit 7 Plotting: Procedure - setting up annotation editor, piece plot parameter and 1table piece plot order.

Unit 8 Preparation of Patterns for the following 2./ Salwar Kameez./ Midi and Tops./ T-Shirt./ Full Sleeve Shirt./ Trousers -Narrow bottom or Bell bottom

Unit 9 Grade the following patterns for 3 sizes 2./ Salwar Kameez./ Midi and Tops./ T-Shirt./ Full Sleeve Shirt./ Trousers -Narrow bottom or Bell bottom

Marker Planning for the pattern sets prepared.-,-_ ...

Books Recommended:1. SoftwareManuals2. Joseph, Helen, Pattern Making for Fashion Designing3. Coklin. Gerry, Pattern Grading for Women's Clothes4. SorabjiM. Rutnagar (2007), The Indian Textile Journal, Volume 117, Issue 7 - 12, Business Press.5. Ji -Young EaRuckman, Jeong - Wha Kim (2000),Journal of FashionMarketing and Management; an

International Journal, United Kingdom, MCB UP Ltd.6. Sandar Burke (2006), Fashion Computing: Design Techniques and CAD, London, Burke Publishing.7. Kevin Tallon, (2008), Digital Fashion Illustration withPhotoshop and Illustrator, London, Batsford

Publications. (7 - 0("-.;···~f;)15t) ~ ~~e9~~ ~l'il('\6~

~ '....-Jt)t)o)'). {ISO,~)~~~:>,~.-QCl~ra

I Semester M.Sc. Examination,(CBCS)

FASHION AND APPAREL DESIGN

FAD 2.4 - Fashion Merchandising and Marketing

Time: 3 hours Max Marks: 70

.. Note: Answer Five questions from Part -A, Four questions from Part- B and Four questionsfrom Part- C

Part A

1. Answer any FIVE of the followingMarksa)b)c)d)e)f)g)

PART-B

2. Answer any FOUR of the followinga)b)c)d)e)

PART-C

3. Answer any FOUR of the followinga)b)c)d)e)f)

2x5=10

5x4=20 Marks

10x4=40 Marks

******************************************************************

Duration: 4 Hours

I SEMESTER MSc Fashion Design- PracticalCORE FD 1.5: TEXTILE PROCESS AND PRODUCTS

Practical Question PaperMax. Marks: 50

Instructions: All questions are compulsory

•1. Examine the given yarn for its yarn unevenness and strength2. Analyze the woven fabric for its

a. Fabric count

(10 Mark)

(10 Mark)

b. Fabric thickness

c. Fabric weight and cover factor

3. Analyze the knitted fabric for its

a. Course and wales per inch

b. Loop length

c. Thickness

4. Co-relate the yarn properties with woven fabric properties5. Viva Voce

6. Practical records

(10 Mark)

(05 Mark)

(05 Mark)

(10 Mark)

I SEMESTER MSc Fashion Design- Internal assessment Question paperCORE FD 1.1: TEXTILE PROCESS AND PRODUCTS

Duration: 1Hour 30 mins Marks: 25

Instructions: All questions are compulsory

..I

1..2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

Q.No.I. Write brief notes on any Five of the following 2 X 5 = 10

Q. No.II. Write short notes on any one of the following 5X 1=5

8.

9.

Q. No. III. Answer any one of the following 10 XI = 10

10.

11.

•

approved bybos on 12/12/2020 - davangere university

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