auric air – explorer – issue 1
DESCRIPTION
Auric Air's Explorer inflight magazine, issue 1. Published by Land & Marine Publications. http://www.auricair.comTRANSCRIPT
Pemba IslandDISCOVER PARADISE
ExplorerInflight magazine I www.auricair.com
ISSUE 1: APRIL-JUNE 2015
KiligolfBuying into the dream
ArushaTop five things to doPage 28
What to wear on safariStyle do’s and don’ts
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CONTENTS
15
24 28 32
FEATURES8 A-Z of Auric Air15 Pemba Island ‘the island less visited’
20 What to wear on safari: Men It’s just not cool to be flashy
22 What to wear on safari: Women Just add lightness and think beige…
26 Kiligolf Dream estate for lovers of wildlife – and golf
28 A-Town Don’t rush Arusha
30 Investing in Tanzania Let the boom times roll
32 Wildebeest whimsy What a gnu will do when he’s blue
34 Cessna Caravan Reliable workhorse
36 Wine in Tanzania Why makutupora is pure magic
38 Mrembo Spa Holistic or high tech?
REGULARS3 INSIDE: Gear up for gnus, golf and great food
5 Foreword Welcome to our first issue
6 Explorer News
24 STAY: Jongomero
40 EAT: Six Degrees South
42 DRIVE: Land Rover Discovery Sport
45 Auric Air route map
46 Travel information
48 Pilot’s eye view
ExplorerInflight magazine
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Gear up for gnus, golf and great food
W elcome to the first issue of Explorer – Auric Air’s new in-flight magazine.
Auric Air operates a dense network of flights across Tanzania. It also connects airstrips in Kenya’s Masai Mara and more recently has launched services between Mwanza and Entebbe. The airline has ambitious plans for further new routes, both domestic and international.
So this new in-flight magazine is launched at a propitious moment for Auric Air.
Many of our passengers are on their way to remote destinations throughout Tanzania and in all likelihood are heading out on safari. We have taken the liberty of offering some advice about what men and women should wear on safari.
While on safari, you will probably encounter a wildebeest or two, especially if you’re visiting the Serengeti or the Mara. We take a light-hearted look at the savannah’s much-maligned gnu.
Today you are flying in a Cessna Caravan. Explorer takes a look at this truly remarkable aircraft.
Then we visit Pemba, experience holistic healing in Zanzibar, travel to Arusha, stay at Jongomero, play golf and sample Tanzania’s remarkably fine wines.
I hope you enjoy your flight with Auric Air. If you have any comments about this magazine, please feel free to contact me at [email protected].
BY GARY GIMSON, PUBLISHER
■
JongomeroExperience the beauty of Africa in pure luxury
Wildebeest MigrationAnything goes when its time for the gnu to move
Pemba IslandThe unlikely destina-tion that will leave you wanting more
IN THIS ISSUE:
COVERPemba Island
ExplorerInflight magazine
Auric Air Services Ltd Mwanza Office PO Box 336 Mwanza Tanzania. Cell: +255 783 233 334; 255 736 200 849 Email : [email protected] Website: [email protected]
Explorer is published on behalf of Auric Air Services Ltd by:
Land & Marine Publications Ltd. 1 Kings Court, Newcomen Way Severalls Business Park, Colchester Essex CO4 9RA, United Kingdom Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 Email: [email protected] www.landmarine.com
ADVERTISINGSales Manager Catherine O’Callaghan Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 Cell: +44 (0)7769 110343 Email: [email protected]
No part of the contents of this magazine may be reproduced without prior written permission from the publishers.
The publisher has made every effort to arrange copyright in accordance with existing legislation.
All advertisements and non-commissioned texts are taken in good faith.
The opinions expressed in this publication are not necessarily those of the editor, or any other organisation associated with this publication
No liability can be accepted for any inaccuracies or omissions.
©2015 Land & Marine Publications Ltd
INSIDE
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Welcome to our first issue
FOREWORD
It gives me great pleasure to welcome our passengers to the first issue of our quarterly
magazine, ‘Explorer’.
I hope that you find our new magazine of interest and that it makes your flight more enjoyable.
I am delighted to say that Auric Air has come a long way in a short time and has ambitious plans to continue its development as a regional airline.
BY DEEPESH GUPTA, COMMERCIAL MANAGER, AURIC AIR
■
Today, Auric Air flies to over 30 destinations across Tanzania and beyond.
Enjoy your flight with Auric Air. If you have any comments to make about our new in-flight magazine or our service, please write to me at the email address below.
Deepesh Gupta Commercial Manager Auric Air Services LtdEmail: [email protected]
News
6
MORE FLIGHTS TO ZANZIBAR Auric Air has increased frequencies between Dar es Salaam and Zanzibar to five flights each day from 15 February. The additional flight departs Dar es Salaam at 09.00 and returns from Zanzibar at 09.30. The extra flight is in response to passenger demand on this route.
NEW ADDITION TO FLEET Auric Air has taken delivery of its 10th Cessna Caravan 208 aircraft. This model is specifically the C208B EX, and the third one of the kind in Auric’s fleet. Like the rest of the Auric Air fleet, the Caravan was delivered new directly from the United States, entering service in March. This new addition will enable Auric Air to expand capacity on existing routes and to launch new services (see separate item about Tabora and Kahama).
NEW DESTINATIONSAuric Air has added Tabora and Kahama to its route network. As of the first week of May, the new service will operate three times a week from Mwanza. The routing is: Mwanza –Kahama – Tabora – Kahama – Mwanza. For those unfamiliar with the new destinations, Tabora is a major tobacco centre and Kahama is a mining town.
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AURIC AIR NEWS
US ROAD SHOWAuric Air joined a road show to the United States in January. The road show was organised by the Tanzanian Tourist Board. The airline’s sales and marketing team visited new and existing clients on the US west coast in Los Angeles, San Francisco and Seattle.
The Tanzanian delegation was led by Dr Adelhelm James Meru, permanent secretary of Tanzania’s Ministry of Natural Resources and Tourism. Leading travel agents and tour operators in the three cities were invited to the event, which featured presentations to promote Tanzanian tourism. Private stakeholders from Tanzania took part along with Tanzanian government representatives.
TRADE SHOW VISITAt the beginning of February, Auric Air visited the Shooting, Hunting and Outdoor Trade Show 2015 at the Mandalay Bay Conven-tion Centre in Las Vegas.
AURIC AIR ONLINE
www.auricair.com
www.facebook.com/auricair
www.twitter.com/auricair
www.instagram.com/auricair
Three reasons to visit:Mafia Island
3Miles and miles of
pure white unspoilt sand
2One of the safest
and friendliest places in the Indian
Ocean
1World-class diving
destination with exquisite coral reefs
A-ZOF AURIC AIR
8
A is for Auric Air
Starting from humble beginnings in 2001, our airline now serves some of the most exciting and remote destina-tions across Tanzania and East Africa. It is Tanzania’s preferred corporate and safari airline, flying 7,500 passengers to 30 destinations each month. Welcome aboard.
B is for Bukoba
Located on the western shore of Lake Victoria, Bukoba is the capital of Kagera and home to Kagera Sugar Football Club, who play at the top level of professional football in Tanzania. Auric Air flies there on a regular basis.
C is for Cessna Caravan
If you’re in the air with Auric right now, you will be travelling in one of our Cessna C208B Caravan aircraft. Head to Page 34 for an in-depth look at Auric Air’s chosen workhorse.
D is for Dodoma
Translating into English from Gogo (a Bantu language), Dodoma literally means ‘it has sunk’. This is quite the opposite however, for the national capital of Tanzania and capital of Dodoma region, where much of the country’s wine is produced. On Page 36 we propose a toast to celebrate Tanzania’s tipples.
FORODHANISee these beautiful gardens come to life at the nightly market
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A-Z OF AURIC AIR
E is for Eat
The cuisine of Tanzania is quite varied, but the most popular dish is ugali (maize porridge), a staple of many meals. At the coast, the seafood is fresh and delicious. Zanzibar offers an abundance of spices, creating a wonderful mix of flavours. Nyama choma (grilled meat), mandazi (fried dough) and samosas are all worth trying, too.
›
F is for Forodhani Gardens
Located in Stone Town, Zanzibar, Forod-hani Gardens is by day a beautiful park, and by night a lively street food market, filled with local people and tourists alike. One of the few places where you can enjoy a true Zanzibar pizza, it’s a ‘must see’ for visitors to the island.
G is for Golf
It’s ‘tee’ time in Tanzania, with a selec-tion of golf courses to satisfy any enthusiast. There’s the recently opened Sea Cliff Golf Course, the first course in Zanzibar, with nine holes and 18 tees; and the Kilimanjaro Golf & Wildlife Estate (Kiligolf), which we explore on Page 26.
H is for Hippopotamus
One of Africa’s greatest animals cannot always be found on safari; so if you want to be sure of sighting a hippo, take a trip with Auric Air to Rubondo Island, where they reside along with crocodiles and others.
L is for Lake Tanganyika
One of the African Great Lakes, Lake Tanganyika is the second largest lake in Eastern Africa and the second deepest in the world. It stretches across four countries: Tanzania, Demo-cratic Republic of Congo, Burundi and Zambia. Auric Air offers private charter flights to Kipili Airstrip nearby.
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A-Z OF AURIC AIR
I is for Islands
Auric Air flies to some wonderful islands in the Zanzibar archipelago, including the main island of Unguja (Spice Island) as well as Pemba (Green Island) and Mafia, home to some of the most amazing marine life in East Africa.
J is for Jongomero
For the first issue of ‘Explorer’ we head to breathtaking Jongomero Camp in Ruaha National Park to experience the secluded wilderness. This luxury camp on the bank of the Jongomero sand river will leave you wanting to stay another night or two.
K is for Kilimanjaro
Kilimanjaro, famously the highest mountain in Africa, is also the highest free-standing mountain in the world. Located in the north-east of Tanzania, the mountain is close to the Kenyan border and can be reached via Arusha Airport.
M is for Mining
Tanzania is the fourth-largest gold producer in Africa and the sole producer of beautiful tanzanite. Also famous for its diamonds, Tanzania has a well developed mining industry, producing quality gemstones and minerals such as tsavorite, spinel and spessartite.
N is for National Parks
Auric Air serves some of Africa’s best national parks. From the world-famous Serengeti to the relatively undiscovered Katavi to Kenya’s great Masai Mara, you can reach them all with Auric Air. Whether it’s a once-in-a-lifetime trip or you’re returning to the bush after many previous visits, an African safari is a great experience.
O is for Ocean
Lapping the shores of Tanzania and its islands, the Indian Ocean is perfect for sea dwellers. You can go swimming, explore Mafia Island Marine Park, go whale and dolphin watching, take a dhow trip, and so much more.
P is for Packing
If you’re anything like us, you will dread the chore of packing for a holiday or business trip. So we’ve tried to help out a little by offering some light-hearted advice about what to wear on safari. Our article starts on Page 20. ›
Q is for Quest for Big Five
Many safari-goers have one overrid-ing ambition while in the bush: to see the Big Five group of famous ‘game’ animals: African lion, African elephant, Cape buffalo, African leopard and rhinoceros. If you’re en route to a safari now, take note, and see how many you can spot.
R is for Rubondo Island
Away from the Zanzibar archipelago is another notable island served by Auric Air. Instead of being off the coast, Rubondo Island is tucked away in a corner of Lake Victoria. About 80 per cent of this secluded island is covered in dense forest. A paradise for wildlife fans, it provides a haven for elephant, giraffe, hippo, crocodile and many other exciting species. Auric Air flies there daily.
S is for Selous
Chances are you’ve heard of Selous Game Reserve, but did you know it was named after the British explorer, hunter and conservationist Frederick Courteney Selous? His legacy lives on in this game park, situated in the south of Tanzania, and it is home to various animals such as elephants, buffalo and crocodiles.
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GREAT LAKEFly with Auric Air to Lake Tanganyika, the second-deepest in the world
ARE YOU READING THIS?
Then potentially so are 24,000 Auric Air passengers. Auric Air is Tanzania’s preferred corporate and safari airline, serving over 30 destinations.
Auric’s chartered and scheduled flights fly to places larger aircraft cannot reach – into the heartlands of Tanzania, to Entebbe, to the Masai Mara, and much more.
Reach Auric’s niche customer base, which includes:
• Business executives and corporate key decision-makers in industries such as Mining, Oil Exploration, NGOs, Government, Local Businessmen, Bankers and Insurance
• Luxury Tourism & Leisure Passengers
• Owners & Managers of exclusive five-star lodges and camps
Book your advertisement in Explorer to keep your business relevant and at the forefront of people’s minds.
To advertise please contact: Catherine O’Callaghan / [email protected] Tel: +44 (0)1206 752902 / +44 (0)7769110343 Skype: catherine-landmarine
Z is for Zizz
After a busy day on safari, in the water, or simply exploring, check out some of Africa’s best hotels, lodges and camps for a great night’s sleep. From five-star beachfront luxury to authentic wilderness camps, you’ll be spoilt for choice when it comes to catching up on some zizz.
SET SAIL!Hop aboard a dhow and take in the beautiful views
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A-Z OF AURIC AIR
T is for Tingatinga
Named after its founder, Edward Saidi Tingatinga, this style of contemporary African art evolved in the Oyster Bay area of Dar es Salaam and then spread across East Africa. Tingatinga paintings are among the nation’s most purchased art forms and popular with tourists from all over the world.
U is for Unguja
Unguja is the largest and most popu-lated island of the Zanzibar archipelago and is the island that most people refer to simply as Zanzibar. Famous for Stone Town – the birthplace of Freddie Mercury – as well as for its spices and its beautiful coast, Unguja is a jewel in Tanzania’s crown.
V is for VIP
Auric Air offers bespoke charter services, including a dedicated VIP travel manager and top-class security. Our VIP clients range from A-list celebri-ties to heads of state to top govern-ment officials, so it’s clear that Auric Air is a reliable and trusted carrier.
W is for Water Sports
Tanzania has some of the best venues in Africa for water sports. While activities are available on the mainland, Zanzibar is the ‘go to’ place for those who like getting their hair wet. From kite surfing to dhow trips to scuba diving, there’s something for everyone, whether you’re a fully fledged water baby or just like to dip your toes.
X is for Xplore
Okay, so we cheated a bit with this one, but exploring East Africa should be on everyone’s bucket list. Auric Air’s sched-uled and chartered flights will take you to some of the most amazing places in Tanzania and beyond. So start your East African adventure today.
Y is for Yetu
Yetu is the Kiswahili (also known as Swahili) word for ‘our’ and Tanzania is our land (‘Tanzania ni nchi yetu’). Tanza-nians are proud of their country and will welcome you to come and experi-ence all the delights it has to offer.
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PUT YOUR FEET UP...in one of Tanza-nia’s best hotels, lodges and camps
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Nick Fox / Shutterstock.com
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‘the island less visited’
PEMBA ISLAND
BY JANE BARSBY ›
‘Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things that you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines.
Sail away from the safe harbour. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.’
Mark Twain
Pemba Island
16
PEMBA ISLAND
D
iscovery and exploration are
not as easy as they used to be.
Everyone’s doing it. In 2014 over 1.1
billion tourists set out to broaden their
horizons; and around 85 million of
them ended up in France, the world’s
most visited destination, while seven
million of them found themselves at
the top of the Eiffel Tower, the world’s
most visited spot.
So if you’d like to take the road less
travelled and arrive at the destination less
visited, where do you go? The answer, at
least according to the United Nations World
Tourism Organisation, is the pacific island
of Nauru, which receives only 200 tourists a
year. Marvellous! Well, not quite, because it’s
almost impossible to get there. Alterna-
tively, you could try Somalia, which attracts
just 500 tourists a year. But perhaps it’s not
to everyone’s taste.
Then again, you could try the island of
Pemba, part of the Zanzibar archipelago of
Pemba has everything that Zanzibar has, and more. Except the crowds. Perfect!
CRYSTAL CLEARCoral reefs, mini desert islands and dive sites. Paradise!
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Tanzania. And while Zanzibar receives over
100,000 tourists a year, Pemba is lucky to
see more than a couple of thousand. Yet
Pemba has everything that Zanzibar has,
and more. Except the crowds. Perfect!
Ancient ruinsPerennially overshadowed by Zanzibar – its
more visible, more vocal and more popular
sister – Pemba is separated from the larger
island by only 50 km of water; yet it could
not be further away in ambience. Where
Zanzibar abounds in hotels, Pemba has
very few; where Zanzibar is flat and sandy,
Pemba is hilly and fertile; where new resorts
spring up daily on Zanzibar’s beaches,
those of Pemba remain utterly pristine;
and whereas the scent of cloves no longer
wreathes the more famous ‘Spice Isle’ of
Zanzibar, the air is redolent of cloves on
Pemba, whose surface is embroidered by
a thick quilt of millions of clove trees.
And the differences don’t end there.
Ringed by coral reefs, Pemba offers some
of the finest dive sites in the world, while
its coast is dotted with idyllic islets, most of
which are miniature desert island paradises
devoid of habitation or visitors. Pemba also
offers a plethora of birds, butterflies and
wildlife and some of the finest dolphin,
turtle and whale shark watching to be
had anywhere in the Indian Ocean. As for
culture, Pemba abounds in ninth-century
Swahili ruins and ancient mosques and is
recognised as a cradle of traditional medi-
cine and cultural beliefs.
Pirate hideawaysPemba is an island of one-offs. According
to the local people, it is a magic island once
inhabited by a race of giants. In the 17th
century it is said that the infamous pirate,
Captain Kidd, had his headquarters on one
of the offshore islets. During the Shirazi
›
WHAT TO SEE AND DO
› Relax on the glorious beaches, of which the best is probably Vumawimbi on the Kigomasha Peninsula.
› Check out the fish market of Tumbe as the catch is brought in.
› Island hop around the offshore islets.
› Take a boat ride to Mesali Island for swimming, snorkelling, diving, birdwatching, turtle-watching and guided nature trails.
› Absorb the Swahili way of life at Chake Chake’s Pemba Museum.
› Visit the ninth-century Chakwa Ruins, 11th-century Ras Mkum-buu Ruins or 13th-century Pujini Ruins.
› Take a stroll in the cool Ngezi Forest Reserve, home to vari-ous endemic bird species as well as to the flying fox, Kirk’s red colobus monkey, vervet monkey, blue duiker and marsh mongoose.
› Enjoy signature Swahili cuisine such as kingfish cooked in lime, ginger, garlic, coconut, toma-toes and onions; parrotfish with seaweed and oranges; tuna steaks steamed in ginger; and jackfish baked with limes.
› Absorb the fragrance of the clove harvest (September to November) as the whole island comes together to pick the clove buds and lay them out to dry in the sun.
PEMBAGet ahead of the crowds and explore the unexplored
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PEMBA ISLAND
period of its history Pemba was ruled
by a sultan so cruel that he made
the old men of the island crack nuts
with their bare gums; while today
Pemba is the last known home of the
flying fox, the best place in the world
to learn Swahili, and the only place
in the Indian Ocean where you can
watch a bullfight.
Flying foxThe Pemba flying fox is the largest
fruit bat in the world with a wing-
span of over five feet. One of nature’s
success stories, its numbers having
risen from a few hundred in the early
1990s to some 22,000 today.
Dive sites Pemba Channel is the jewel of the
East African dive site portfolio. Its
deep waters promise dramatic walls
and drop-offs, clear blue waters
(average visibility 40 metres) and
encounters with eagle rays, manta
rays, Napoleon wrasse, great barra-
cuda, tuna and kingfish. Among the
best sites in this marine conservation
area are: Fundu Reef (rose coral, red
and yellow sea fans, trigger fish and
wrasse); Kikota Reef (ideal for night
diving); Manta Point (close encoun-
ters with giant manta rays) and the
caves of Mesali Island (haunt of giant
grouper).
Where to stayTourism is still in its infancy on
Pemba, so the choice of upmarket
hotels and resorts is limited. Perhaps
the most famous is the five-star
Manta Resort, renowned for its
underwater bedroom (www.theman-
taresort.com). Other choices include
the five-star Fundu Lagoon Resort
(www.fundulagoon); the Pemba
Lodge, an eco-friendly resort offering
bungalows made out of recycled
boats and natural local materials; and
the Kervan Saray Beach Lodge (www.
kervansaraybeach.com). Alternatively,
the island has a limited selection of
simple guesthouses.
■
‘Do not go where the path may lead. Go instead where there is
no path and leave a trail’Ralph Waldo Emerson
Pemba: NEED TO KNOW
Size: Pemba is 70 km long and 22 km wide.
Location: North of Zanzibar in the Zanzibar archipelago.
Religion: 95 per cent Muslim.
Economy: 75 per cent clove farming plus small-scale fish-ing and cattle rearing.
Best time to visit: June to November and January to March. Best time for dolphin spotting is October to February.
Main towns: Chake Chake is the main town. To the north is the port of Wete and to the southwest the port of Mkoani.
Getting there: Auric Air flies to Pemba. Alternatively, visi-tors can take a half-day’s dhow ride from the mainland town of Tanga, or a ferry (five to six hours) or speedboat (about two hours) from Mkoani.
Getting around: There is a limited bus service. Taxis, bicycles and motorcycles can be hired.
20
Safari style tips for men
It’s not cool to be flashy
WHAT TO WEAR ON SAFARI: MEN
BY GARY GIMSON
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I
n days past, a gentleman travelling
in East Africa would have opted
for a standard and probably ill-fitting
safari outfit – the ‘white hunter’ look.
If you have seen Italian-American actor
Victor Mature in the 1956 Hollywood
film ‘Safari’ or Stewart Granger in ‘King
Solomon’s Mines’ (1950) then you will
know what I mean.
For both Mature and Granger, the films’
costumer designers chose sand-coloured
shirts with large chest pockets, matching
long pants and a bush hat with a leopard-
skin band. Shorts, it seems, were worn only
by askaris in those far-off colonial days.
Fast forward 60 years or so and a more
Afro Chic style of safari wear is with us. Yet,
for the best-dressed among us, echoes
remain of that pre-independence sartorial
bush code.
It’s good to see that many visitors to
East Africa really do make an effort to look
good, yet a number fail to get the unwrit-
ten dress code just right. Or, worse still, they
don’t even bother and turn up on safari in
scruffy jeans topped by an unironed T-shirt,
as the occupants of many a safari van will
demonstrate.
So, instead of looking out of place in the
bush, I’d like offer some advice for men.
First, I would choose a long-sleeved, fitted
and breathable shirt (with the obligatory
chest pockets) in bottle green or khaki,
made of cotton or a more modern material
such as MaraTech. Ideally, the shirt needs to
be paired with zip-off-leg trousers – ideal
for those warm days as well as chilly nights
around the campfire.
This outfit can be topped with a fleece –
preferably not a gilet – in a muted colour.
Red, black and blue fleeces are a big no-no
here and mark out the wearer as a safari
parvenu, or worse.
Camouflage is also off the menu. In fact,
the wearing of combat gear is forbidden in
many African states and for obvious reasons.
The same goes for an outfit that looks as
if it might have been bought in the airport
lounge just before departure or at your
hotel on arrival; or one that is excessively
laundered and pressed. So a bit of wear
and tear can come in handy for creating
the right image and to give that perfectly
attired yet seasoned-traveller appearance.
EnsembleA bush hat is a useful and often necessary
addition to this ensemble. In my opinion, a
baseball cap – even one emblazoned with
the name of some remote and expensive
bush camp – should not be worn. Such
caps are best left for your guide or tracker
to wear.
These days, a solar topee is a head
covering too far, perhaps, although I think
it can look rather beguiling and classy on a
woman. But unless you have matinée idol
looks, then men should probably avoid.
Overall, a bit of dust can help create the
illusion of a regular and knowledgeable
visitor to this part of the world. The same
goes for a solid pair of boots. Some mud (in
›
the rainy season) or dust (at other times) is
vital. Brand-new boots just out of the box
look naff, so wear them in before you arrive
in Africa.
In terms of where to buy, I would recom-
mend The Safari Store in the UK, which sells
the impressively authentic-looking Rufiji
range of bush apparel. There’s also Cape
Union Mart in South Africa, which has a
good selection of bushwear, including its
K-Way brand, featuring excellent gear such
as Explorer Grego and Kloof trousers, soft
fleeces and comfortable and appropriate
boots. These can be ordered on-line.
The Safari Store’s Steve Adams told
‘Explorer’: “We expedition test all our
products in Africa and do not sell anything
unless it survives the expedition. Our
last expedition took us the length of the
Okavango Delta in dugout canoes; and in
the next one we are testing our new range
on a 350 km kayak jaunt down the Zambezi
River from Ngonye Falls to the Victoria Falls.
We sweat to make sure you are comfortable
and cool on your safari.”
So with access to the specialist outfit-
ters, there’s no excuse for not having the
correct attire. And with some manufactur-
ers actively pursuing cross-over clothing
and footwear ranges you can always wear
the same gear for, say, hiking when you get
home again.
A bit of wear and tear can come in handy for creating the right image and to give that perfectly attired yet seasoned-traveller appearance
22
Safari style tips for women
BY KIRSTEN ALEXANDER
Just add lightness and think beige…
WHAT TO WEAR ON SAFARI: WOMEN
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G
oing on safari may no
longer be a once-in-a-
lifetime event, now that more
people are returning to Africa
after their first experience of the
great outdoors; but every safari
regular has to start somewhere.
We all have to choose the safari,
book the flight, grab our pass-
port and decide what to pack in
our bags.
Knowing what to wear on safari
can be tricky as there seems to be
a never-ending spiral of things to
consider. Will it be hot? What about
at night? Do I need insect repellent?
Are these shoes okay? What about
a hat? (But I hate hats!) And there is
nothing worse than trying to track
down the Big Five when all you can
think about is how you wish you’d
worn that other shirt – the one that
didn’t scratch or do up awkwardly,
the one you left at home, still in
its packaging, or still in the shop
because you never bought it.
Previously, it might seem that
women had only two options when
dressing for a safari: comfortable or
stylish. You could either adopt Meryl
Streep’s prim, ladylike look in ‘Out of
Africa’, or buy everything with the
word ‘utility’ in the name – utility
belt, utility boots, utility shirt, etc.
Thanks to advances in the textile
industry, and an all-round greater
knowledge of what actually works
on safari, women now have the
perfect option of staying cool and
looking cool at the same time.
In terms of actual clothing, then,
what should you pack for a safari?
Well, there is a wide choice available
for style-conscious women, so you
don’t have to leave your sass back at
camp with your beachwear.
Colour is more important than
most people think. While white may
be associated with keeping cool, it is
not actually recommended for safari.
Better to stick to neutrals. Beige and
khaki may be a no-go for the office,
but they’re a definite yes in the
bush. They’ll keep you subtle in the
scenery, and they also camouflage
any dirt. (Note: definitely no real
camouflage. At all.)
Although shirts may not be the
most flattering of garments, they
are practical; and these days you
can certainly find shirts designed
for women rather than having to
raid the men’s section of your local
camping and hiking store.
FashionistasIf you want to glam up a bit – not
overly necessary, as Africa’s wild
creatures are not usually known to
be judgmental fashionistas – then
consider a lightweight scarf. It’s
useful for keeping your hair out of
your face, keeping the sun off your
neck or simply for a bit of pizzazz.
Again, lightweight material and
neutral colours are key, here.
While the task of choosing safari-
appropriate clothing may seem
daunting, it’s worth noting the
weight restrictions on the aircraft
you fly in. Typically, small planes are
used to fly to remote destinations,
and these come with varying, often
strict, weight limits.
On Auric Air, for example (as you
probably will know by now) the limit
is 15 kg.
The Safari Store of London help-
fully provides the weight in grams
of each item it sells, so you can
pack sensibly rather than have a
last-minute rummage at the airport,
throwing socks and undergarments
out of your luggage, for all to see.
If nothing else, this screams ‘safari
novice’ to any bystander.
Soft, squishable luggage is a plus,
as the holds can be quite tight. So it’s
best to plan ahead, unless you can
afford to charter another plane, just
for your very expensive, heavy (and
unnecessary) luggage.
And if it really is all too daunting,
why not admit defeat and leave it
to the professionals? Nowadays,
safari newbies can find or download
packing lists, especially designed
for safaris by connoisseurs. Some of
them will simply give you a list of
things to pack, but others go into
a bit more depth. The Safari Store’s
list, for example, helpfully takes into
account weight restrictions, so you
know you will definitely be onto a
winner with your safari style.
If you want to glam up a bit – not overly necessary, as Africa’s wild creatures are not usually known to be judgmental fashionistas – then consider a lightweight scarf
■
24
Climate, setting, pedigree?
STAY: JONGOMERO
All perfect…
W
e looked long and hard for the
perfect bush camp to be the
subject of our review in this launch issue of
‘Explorer’ magazine.
We evaluated the competing claims of many
and noted their undoubted merits. We then
whittled these down to a shortlist and eventu-
ally we plumped for just one – a place where,
given the choice, we would opt to stay when
spending our hard-earned money.
We all agreed we wanted a property that
summed up the safari experience; one that was
remote, a little hard to get to, wild yet well run,
unpretentious, truly authentic with a pedigree
and, critically, a camp that blended effortlessly
with its surroundings. So for us there was just
one choice: Jongomero.
JONGOMEROA slice of pure luxury in the middle of nature’s finest
auricair.com 25
Located 70 km from its nearest
neighbour in Ruaha National Park,
Jongomero is about as remote as it
gets in Tanzania. There are no other
vehicles and no other people, just
great game viewing in what amounts
to a private safari in a private reserve.
Ruaha enjoys a unique micro-
climate in Tanzania because of its
status as a transitional zone between
the southern and eastern biomes.
And this is reflected in the range
of plants and animals found in the
park including roan, sable and high
concentrations of wild dog.
From June to November it has a
wonderful fresh climate with cool crisp
evenings of 10˚C or less and warmer
days in the twenties. As the year
unfolds, the days become warmer and
the water sources in the park diminish.
Unlike most other parks, Ruaha has
only one annual rain cycle that begins
in December; an exciting time, as the
seasonal sand rivers begin to flow
around Jongomero.
Just about every safari camp
owner tries to talk up the some-
times dubious delights of the green
season, but in Ruaha this is indeed
the perfect time for birdwatch-
ers. There are over 560 species of
birds, many of which are migrating
through the park at this time of year.
CuisineWe all know that we go to the bush to
view game; but, if we are honest, for
many the cuisine is almost as impor-
tant as the wildlife. And Jongomero
does not disappoint. The menu can
best be described as European with a
few Swahili twists. And these tend to
match the climate. As Ruaha can be
on the chilly side, the food is of the
warm, comforting variety: succulent
beef fillets with aioli or double-baked
cheese, leek and ham soufflés. Yum.
But where to dine? Jongomero has
a new breakfast terrace. Lunches are
taken on the sand terrace and the
camp provides a hosted table so that
guests can mingle with their fellow
travellers, managers and guides. In
the evenings, guests can enjoy a
sundowner in the park followed by
convivial evening drinks round the
campfire. Drinks are also served at the
dhow bar followed by private dinners
on the sand river bed (obviously not in
the green season), on the sand terrace
or by the swimming pool – a unique
feature in Ruaha and it’s hippo friendly.
ActivitiesWe also like the fact that walking is
a key activity at the camp; and if you
haven’t walked in the bush, then you
haven’t been on safari. All bush walks
are accompanied by an armed guide
as well by the obligatory Tanapa
ranger. Guests on dawn game walks
set off at sunrise and stop for a
hearty bush breakfast; returning to
camp just before midday.
Taking this to the next level, there
are longer walking safaris comprising
two or three days out in the bush,
walking every day and having what
Jongomero calls the Denys Finch
Hatton Experience, with bread baked
on the campfire and bucket showers
under a canopy of trees – although
still with the luxury of a chilled glass
of wine and a rather agreeable
cooked meal.
So if you’re looking for the real
thing and don’t want to be palmed
off with less-than-authentic imitations
of the true safari experience, then
look no further than.
Jongomero is owned and operated by the Selous Safari Company, which includes Siwandu (in the Selous) and Ras Kutani (at the coast) in its portfolio. These three properties can be combined. www.selous.com/jongomero
STAY: JONGOMERO
TEE TIMEKiligolf’s lush 15-hole golf course is nearly complete
26
Dream estate for lovers of wildlife – and golf
KILIGOLF
T
he Kilimanjaro Golf &
Wildlife Estate – known as
Kiligolf – is a 4,000 acre develop-
ment about 25 km from Arusha.
It is now nearing completion
and the golf course has 15 holes
already in play.
The course at Usa River is just a
25-minute drive from Kilimanjaro
International Airport and a similar
distance from Arusha. Nairobi can
be reached by road in just under five
hours, but it’s probably better to fly
into Kilimanjaro or Arusha from the
Kenyan capital.
Set against the backdrop of Mount
Kilimanjaro, Kiligolf comprises a
testing par-72, 18-hole championship
course dotted with cleverly spaced
plots for new villas.
As an American-style golf devel-
opment, Kiligolf is the first of a kind
in Tanzania. Construction of the golf
course has taken several years of
meticulous planning and attention
to detail. The result is a truly natural
environment in which to live, play
golf and relax among predator-free
wildlife.
ReservedMore than half the plots have already
been reserved, with the early Phases 1
to 4 completely sold out. A new phase
has just been released that includes
some delightfully positioned fairway
plots on the back nine.
Plots start at around TZS 160
million (US$ 95,000) to which
construction costs must then be
added; these amount to roughly TZS
900,000 (about US$ 500) per square
metre; so a 300 square metre house
will cost TZS 270,000,000 (about US$
150,000). Thus, for US$ 250,000 you
can buy a villa overlooking the golf
course, which is great value.
Buyers have a title for their prop-
erty, which is on a 99-year leasehold.
Properties are for owners to live in as
much or as little as they wish.
But how is work actually progress-
ing with the golf course? Kiligolf’s
Zummi Cardoso says: “The last three
holes on the back nine are still under
construction and the full 18 holes will
be playable from 1 July. Work contin-
ues on the infrastructure of the estate
with new roads going into new areas.
New water features are also being
completed on the back nine.”
Zummi adds: “We sell serviced plots
which are connected to water and
electricity mains as well as back-up
generators. We have 12 house designs
to choose from and owners submit
their plans to a building committee
before choosing a contractor of their
own, or from a suggested list from
BY GARY GIMSON
INVEST Membership of the golf club is a bonus for investors
auricair.com 27
Kiligolf. All properties must conform
to the covenant they sign when
purchasing to protect the surround-
ing environment and other nearby
property owners.”
Aside from buying the plot, inves-
tors get membership of the golf
club. The yearly service fee includes
membership of the golf club for four
members of a family as well as cover-
ing estate road maintenance and
security, among other things.
Zummi acknowledges that most
of Kiligolf’s existing clients are, for the
moment, Dar-based residents look-
ing for an upcountry property for
weekends and longer breaks. Never-
theless, there is interest from beyond
the nation’s borders and, fortunately,
Tanzania warmly welcomes foreign-
ers to come and invest. There are
three types of resident permit. Class
A is for investors, Class B for employ-
ees and Class C for retired people. It
takes time to get a residence permit,
but as long as all the documentation
is in order it’s not difficult to obtain.
Most of Kiligolf’s foreign investors are
likely to be in Class C.
UntamedOn the Kiligolf estate, the 360 plots
are surrounded by a mass of wild
flora and fauna. The former sisal
estate has been converted into
lush greens and verdant fairways
surrounded by untamed wilderness.
The estate contains a wide variety
of wildlife as well as an impres-
sive birdlife. The animals currently
include dik-dik, steinbok, bushbuck,
Set against the backdrop of Mount Kilimanjaro, Kiligolf
comprises a testing par-72, 18-hole championship course
duiker, aardvark and bushpig. Part
of the estate has been set aside as
a wildlife area where other animals
such as impala, lesser kudu and
Grant’s and Thompson’s gazelle will
be reintroduced. Plots will be set out
in a way that allows the animals to
live in harmony with the property
owners.
While awaiting completion of
the course, Kiligolf has lost no time
in holding its first competitions. A
number of small events have been
held including a ‘Movember’ tourna-
ment which raised money for the
Arusha Mental Health Trust and
the Flying Medical Service. Kili-
golf also hosted a nine-hole night
tournament using luminous balls.
These events have been supported
by the local community, by players
from Arusha Gymkhana Club, and by
the TPC and Moshi golf clubs.
The clubhouse is not yet finished
but will open later this year. For the
time being there is a small temporary
clubhouse at the driving range which
serves drinks and light snacks. It will
be the final piece in the Kiligolf jigsaw.
28
Five things to do in A-Town without going on safari
Don’t rush Arusha
A-TOWN
K
nown by many as the starting point
for an exciting safari trip around
Tanzania’s Northern Circuit, Arusha is
almost synonymous with ‘safari stopover’.
Virtually everyone who visits Tanzania’s
northern parks will have to pass through
it, which makes Arusha an often visited but
less often explored town.
But there is more to A-Town than just national
parks – albeit wonderful national parks – so we
take a look at the other delights that this gate-
way to the Northern Circuit has to offer.
BY KIRSTEN ALEXANDER
CULTURAL HERITAGE CENTRE
The eye-catching design of this building – made to look like a drum, a spear and a shield – provides a perfect summary of what awaits visitors inside: an equally informative and interesting look at the fascinating culture of Tanzania. There is an impressive collection of art and artefacts, exquisite precious and semi-precious stones, mouth-watering food and bargains galore, making it a real hub of culture and interest. Browse the sculptures, pick up some beautiful spices and absorb the wonderful Tanzanian culture.
auricair.com 29
■
SABLE SQUARE SHOPPING VILLAGE
Set in four acres of beautiful grounds is Sable Square Shop-ping Village, the place to go in Arusha for a spot of retail therapy. Open seven days a week, with free parking and a delightful selection of shops and restaurants, Sable Square is a retail oasis with some-thing for everyone, with coffee, art, clothing, jewellery, food, crafts and much more. Our top tips are the Banana Box Company for crafts and accessories; and the Book-house Bistro for a drink and a bite to eat.
KHAN’S BBQ
If you prefer to grab something to eat while on the move, then Khan’s BBQ is an unlikely treat. Car repair garage by day, street food ‘restaurant’ by night, Khan’s BBQ is as delicious as it is memorable. The Indian-influ-enced food is cooked in front of you on a barbecue in the street with an impressive array of salads and sauces to comple-ment the succulent meats. A must-try for serious foodies.
THE BLUE HERON
Whether it’s a morning espresso to kickstart the day, somewhere pretty and tranquil for a first date, a place to let the children run around while you catch up with friends, or just somewhere to enjoy a really good meal, why not set a course for the Blue Heron on Haile Selassie Road. Offering an exciting and varied menu, including some of the best pizzas in Arusha, the Blue Heron is the perfect place to stop, refuel, relax and enjoy the ambience of the garden with an ice-cold drink in your hand.
MESERANI SNAKE PARK
Just the mention of the word ‘snake’ can make some people feel uneasy, let alone the idea of a whole park full of the slithery creatures. But the Meserani Snake Park is more than just home to a variety of exotic and sometimes dangerous creatures; it offers everything from camel rides to a Maasai cultural museum. There is a well equipped camping area on site as well as a legendary bar. Of course, the park’s main event is the snakes, all 48 of them, and the collection of other reptiles housed in Meserani.
30
Why the big players are investing in Tanzania…Let the boom times rollINVESTING IN TANZANIA
W
hen you look at the personal
income of the average
Tanzanian, this is not one of the world’s
rich nations. And yet, in the eyes of
economic watchers and forecasters
across the globe, Tanzania is a land of
economic boom.
There’s no doubt about it: the national
economy of Tanzania is simply power-
ing along. For the past three years or so
the country has been enjoying an annual
growth rate of around seven per cent – and
according to respected financial journals
such as ‘The Economist’, this growth is set to
continue through 2015 and onwards to 2018.
But what is Tanzania’s secret formula for
economic success? What does Tanzania
have going for it nowadays that has placed it
among the world’s most dazzling performers
in terms of the national economy?
Well, the answer can be stated quite
simply in three parts.
ValuableOne is the fact that Tanzania is exception-
ally well endowed with valuable natural
resources – most notably natural gas, oil
and gold, but also including coal and other
minerals as well as precious stones.
Another is the appeal of Tanzania as a tour-
ism destination thanks to its innate beauty
and impressive range of flora and fauna.
And the third, highly significant, factor
is that in recent years Tanzania has a grate-
ful target for high levels of foreign direct
investment (FDI). In 2013, for example,
Tanzania received about US$1.9 billion in
FDI – significantly more than neighbouring
Kenya – making it the highest beneficiary of
FDI in East Africa, according to the United
Nations Conference on Trade and Develop-
ment (Unctad).
In terms of natural resources, Tanzania
has yet to play its trump card, which is the
vast reserves of natural gas that will begin
to be exploited commercially in 2020. The
country is believed to have something in
the region of 200 trillion cubic feet of natu-
ral gas reserves as well as huge – although
not yet proven – reserves of oil. In addition,
Tanzania is the third-largest gold producing
country in Africa and also has large deposits
of coal and other minerals.
When natural gas production starts up
in five years’ time, Tanzania will be looking
to export liquefied natural gas (LNG) to
specific markets such as China, Chile, Paki-
stan and Spain as well as more generally to
the continents of East and South Asia, Latin
America and Europe.
With these key reserves of natural
resources in the background, Tanzania
has seen an exceptionally swift rate of
economic growth in a number of capital-
intensive sectors. According to the World
Bank, the fastest-growing of these sectors
are communications, construction, financial
services, manufacturing and retail.
The benefits of economic growth are
certainly not shared equally across the spec-
trum of Tanzanian society, however. It is the
urban technocrat who is enjoying the ‘feel
good factor’ of inward investment, while his
fellow Tanzanians in the rural communities
continue to feel the pinch. In 2012, for exam-
ple, those working in service industries such
as communications, financial services, retail
and transport were riding high on an annual
growth rate of eight per cent, while in the
agricultural sector – on which about 80 per
cent of Tanzanian householders rely for their
income – it was only 4.2 per cent.
So where is the inward investment
coming from? Which are the nations head-
ing up the list of global economic players
who can see a golden opportunity to put
their money to work in Tanzania? One name
that has come to the fore is China, which
in 2013 invested US$ 1.4 billion in Tanzania
– significantly more than the United States,
for example, which ploughed US$ 950
million into the Tanzanian economy in the
same year.
InvestmentsPerhaps surprisingly, though, it was the
United Kingdom which came top of the list
of investors in 2014 by ploughing US$ 4.7
billion into Tanzania. This included signifi-
cant investments by the British oil and gas
company BG Group and the London-based
brewing and beverage giant SABMiller.
Another key player in 2014 was India, with
a hefty US$ 1.8 billion invested in Tanzania,
while Kenya – where many multinational
companies have their regional base – was
in third place with US$ 1.5 billion and China
was fourth.
In the energy sector in particular, there
has been significant investment by Statoil of
Norway, Ophir Energy of the UK and the US
energy company ExxonMobil.
There is one obstacle in the way of
progress that potential investors are well
aware of, however, and that is the poor
state of the nation’s infrastructure, particu-
larly when it comes to energy generation.
This has made Tanzania a costly environ-
ment in which to operate. The problem is
compounded by the limitations of domes-
tic transport; and if the nation is to maintain
its rapid growth, these issues will need to
be addressed. On the other hand, the
quality and availability of domes-
tic flights has improved
dramatically in
recent years.
BY JOHN TAVNER
auricair.com 31
■
THE CHINA SYNDROME
Some idea of China’s level of spending in Tanzania can be gained from one of its single largest investments recently. This was a US$ 3 billion agreement signed by the Sichuan Hongda Group to develop coal mining and steel making projects in Tanzania. At that time, too, the Export-Import Bank of China loaned US$ 1.2 billion to build a 500 km gas pipeline between Mtwara and Dar es Salaam. More Chinese-financed projects are expected to get under way in the sectors of agri-culture, infrastructure and manufacturing.
ASK THE EXPERTS
The Tanzania Investment Centre (TIC) has been a key factor in attracting inward investment. Established in 1997, the TIC provides a one-stop shop for all inves-tors. In addition to mainland Tanzania, other incentives are offered by the Zanzi-bar Investment Promotion Agency (ZIPA) and the Zanzi-bar Free Economic Zones Authority (ZAFREZA).
32
Confused about the migration of wildebeest? You will be…
What a gnu will do when he’s blue
WILDEBEEST WHIMSY
E
veryone knows when it’s
time for the annual migra-
tion of the wildebeest in East
Africa, don’t they? Well, no,
actually they don’t. Indeed, most
people find the migration a rather
confusing phenomenon from
start to finish.
It happens in June, doesn’t it? In
Kenya’s Masai Mara National Reserve?
Or is it in October in Tanzania’s
Serengeti National Park? Or does it
happen in both places? All year round?
Maps entitled ‘The Migration
Made Simple’ are produced from
time to time, but somehow the
arrows that swirl around East Africa,
first heading determinedly this way
and then doggedly that, only add to
the confusion. Most of us are left just
as bemused about who is heading
where, when or why as we were in
the first place.
Sometimes it seems as if the wilde-
beest themselves aren’t too sure.
It used to be that, at some point
between the end of July and a delib-
erately vague point in November, over
1.5 million wildebeest, accompanied
by half again as many
zebra and gazelle,
would dutifully commence
their annual migration from
the short-grass plains of
Serengeti to the lush green pastures
of the Mara. Then, when the grass
became sparse and the wildebeest
got peckish, typically towards the end
of October, they would set off again
back to the Serengeti.
And that was that.
DirectionBut these days anything goes.
Sometimes all the wildebeest set
off at once; sometimes only half of
them do. Sometimes they all set off
and then some of them turn back.
Sometimes they all pull up short and
mill about for weeks without direc-
tion. Sometimes they seem to be
heading in both directions at once.
And latterly a stubborn contingency,
presumably worn out by all this
movement to and fro, has taken up
permanent residence in Kenya.
Confusion indeed.
BY JANE BARSBY
auricair.com 33
But then the wildebeest are the
masters of muddle. Until 1969, for
instance, there was no such thing
as a migration. On the contrary, the
wildebeest had remained placidly
stationary since the dawn of time.
But then, in 1969, seemingly with one
accord, they set off for the Mara.
Nor do they all migrate even now:
the blue wildebeest does and the
black doesn’t. Why? Well, a million
years ago, it seems, there was only
one type of wildebeest, also known
as a gnu. Then, for reasons known
best to the animal itself, the wilde-
beest strain divided, so that now
we have the blue wildebeest, which
is grey, and the black wildebeest,
which is brown. While the black
wildebeest has learned to adapt to
eating things other than lush young
grass, the blue wildebeest has not.
And so it is that the blue wildebeest
migrates and the black doesn’t.
PerverseJust to confound things, there is a
herd of blue wildebeest living in the
Ngorongoro Crater whose members
flatly refuse to migrate; and there is
another in the Selous whose members
have become almost sedentary.
So wildebeest are perverse?
Yes, but they are also clever. To
protect themselves against attack,
for instance, they take it in turns to
sleep at night. And to determine the
proximity of danger they listen to the
pitch of alarm calls emitted by other
animals – particularly baboons – to
gauge the degree of danger.
And that’s not all. Because, rather
than blundering around East Africa
in a chaotic frenzy as we have always
supposed them to do, recent research
has proved that the wildebeest have
evolved a sophisticated commu- ■
WILDEBEEST TRIVIA
› The famous Gnu Song (‘I’m a gnu – how do you do?’) was originally written and performed by Michael Flanders and Donald Swann and later the song was memorably featured on the Muppet Show.
› The plural of wildebeest is wildebeest, wildebeests or wildebai (the word comes from the Dutch for ‘wild beast’).
› The wildebeest is the most abundant big game species in East Africa, both in population and biomass.
› Most wildebeest live to an age of 20 years (but some live to 30).
› The wildebeest has a top speed of 64 km per hour.
› 90 per cent of wildebeest calves are born within three weeks of each other.
› 70 per cent of wildebeest carcasses are consumed by vultures.
nication system known as ‘swarm
intelligence’ that allows them to use a
communal brain to determine where
they’re going, why they’re going, and
when they’re going.
Pity they haven’t deigned to share
this intelligence with the rest of us.
Sometimes all the wildebeest set off at once; sometimes only half of them do
34
RELIABLE WORKHORSE
CESSNA CARAVAN
T
here’s every likelihood that you are
reading ‘Explorer’ while zipping
across Tanzania with Auric Air. Or
perhaps you have taken a complimen-
tary copy of our in-flight magazine with
you to peruse at your leisure.
If so, then you will be flying – or will have
flown – in a Cessna C208B Caravan (to give
the aircraft its full and technical designation).
Right across sub-Saharan Africa, the
humble Caravan forms the backbone of the
fleets of many ‘safari’ type air operators. It’s
a reliable and robust aircraft that can land
on rough airstrips and take off with ease
from bush runways of restricted length.
The Caravan has been in service as an
aircraft since 1984, although the Auric Air fleet
is, of course, much younger. The Caravan has a
payload of 1,200 kg and a range of three and a
half hours’ flight with a reserve of 90 minutes.
Auric Air operations manager Sajid
Hussein extols the Cessna’s capabilities:
“The performance of the plane at the price
is unrivalled. It is a Land Cruiser of the skies.
Questions like what is the challenge, a rough
short strip or heavy loads are all irrelevant
and are answered by a question: do you have
a C208B? If so, no problem, job done.”
ReliabilitySajid adds: “On top of all that performance,
the reliability is very, very good. Dispatch
rates are fantastic. Put passengers on the
plane, and it will not disappoint. It is the
perfect example of keep it simple, boss.”
The Caravan has an excellent safety
record and, in addition to bush capability, it
is ideal for use on ‘thin’ commercial routes
‘The performance of the plane at the price is unrivalled. It is a Land Cruiser of the skies’.
CESSNA CARAVANReliable, modern and safe: Auric Air’s star in the sky
auricair.com 35
or where a high frequency of operation
is more important than mere volume of
passengers – such as between Dar es
Salaam and Zanzibar.
As you will have noticed, the single-
engine Caravan seats just 13 passengers
when one pilot is flying, and 12 passengers
when two pilots are requested.
Auric Air operates a 10-strong fleet of Cara-
vans on routes throughout mainland Tanzania
and to the paradise Indian Ocean islands of
Zanzibar, Pemba and Mafia as
well as to airstrips in the Masai
Mara over the border in Kenya
and to Entebbe International Airport
in Uganda – a destination served from the
lakeside town of Mwanza.
Each of Auric Air’s 10-strong Caravan fleet
was purchased new by the carrier. Its oldest
Caravan was delivered in 2008 and its most
recently acquired aircraft was added only
last year. This gives the fleet a youthful aver-
age age of just 2.8 years.
ModernisationSajid explains the Auric Air philosophy: “As
for modernisation, we wanted to adopt tech-
nology for safety reasons. As equipment gets
better, safety gets enhanced. We
wanted to be sure that the aircraft we own
were only owned [by Auric Air] and therefore
we direct purchase from the factory.”
Luggage is stored in a series of easy-access
cargo pods in the belly of the aircraft. This
makes for speedy loading and unloading
and for quick turnarounds. The downside
is that each passenger is restricted to an
industry standard of 15 kg in soft-sided bags
(which, in any case, is just about perfect for a
safari). Auric Air also allows a further 5 kg of
hand luggage at the pilot’s discretion, giving
a useful 20 kg in total.
So as you enjoy your flight today, it’s
worth knowing that there is a lot more to the
workaday Cessna Caravan than might have
been apparent before you came on board.
36
Let’s raise a glass to Tanzania’s thriving wine industry
Why makutupora is pure magicWINE IN TANZANIA
N
o doubt the phrase ‘African
wine’ will direct your thoughts
to South Africa’s plentiful and exciting
offerings of red, white and rosé.
Perhaps surprisingly, though, Tanzania is
right behind South Africa as the second-
largest wine producer in sub-Saharan Africa;
and with ever more investment being
pumped into wine production, its wine
industry is thriving.
Tanzania’s commercial wine production
is concentrated around Dodoma at about
1,100 metres above sea level. Here, produc-
ers have found an agreeable climate and a
soil that is perfect for growing grapes.
Grapes need a particular climate in which
to thrive: not too hot – except, perhaps, when
ripening – but not too cold either, because a
late frost kills the vines. The climate also has
to be sunny, with just enough rain and low
humidity. Dodoma is one of the few places in
sub-Saharan Africa, outside the Cape, where
this ideal climatic mix can be found.
ProductionTanzania’s wine production is in the hands
of three companies: Tanzania Distilleries Ltd
(TDL), which is affiliated to South Africa’s
giant Distell group; and producers Cetawico
Cantina Sociale di Dodoma and Tanganyika
Vineyards Co (Tavico).
All three rely, directly or indirectly, on a
network of small farmers for their grapes.
And the grape they all choose to grow is
the makutupora variety, which is best suited
to local conditions. According to TDL brand
manager Martha Bangu, the quality of the
grape has improved tremendously in recent
years and production is rising annually.
Having got production on an upward
curve, Martha now wants to see greater
local wine consumption: According to
Martha, the message is: “Celebrate your
own success with the fruits of our success.”
She goes on: “As a result, we then encour-
age national pride in a beautiful local
wine. We also tend to highlight Dodoma
Wines as a lifestyle choice. Consumers are
encouraged to enjoy a great local wine with
Tanzanian food or as part of a social gather-
ing. After all, toasting your success is no fun
if you do it alone.”
Distell has played a major role in advis-
ing farmers on viticultural practices and is
confident that grape growing will become
a meaningful contributor to Tanzania’s agri-
cultural sector. The company has set itself
the task of doubling production of locally
produced grapes, which are hand-farmed.
auricair.com 37
With few tractors, even soil prepara-
tion is done manually. Owing to the
lack of irrigation, almost all vineyards
consist of dry land and virtually no
chemicals are used.
Full-bodiedFounded in 2002, Italian-owned
Cetawico sells tempting crispy whites,
full-bodied reds and a rosé, all from
cooperatively grown grapes. Unlike
TDL, Cetawico is not part of a major
multinational drinks business. On the
contrary, its presence in Tanzania is
partly luck and partly circumstance.
Cetawico is associated with the
Fondazione San Zeno, a Verona-
based humanitarian organisation. Its
roots in Tanzania can be traced to the
pioneering work of an Italian mission-
ary who experimented with planting
vines and growing grapes during his
time in Tanzania.
Seeing the potential and building
on the missionary’s early success,
the Fondazione San Zeno, with local
partners, then financed the commer-
cial production of wine. The first
wine was produced in 2005. Output
has continued to grow and has now
reached over 2 million litres a year.
Cetawico’s assistant managing
director, Gabriella Balsamo, says: “We
involve around 450 farmers in the
local Dodoma region. We are work-
ing with the Tanzanian government
as well as supporting a national
project called Kilimo Kwanza, which
supports young farmers.”
For the time being, most of Ceta-
wico’s output is consumed within
Tanzania, but some wine is exported
to markets across East Africa. Ceta-
wico produces Overmeer wine (a
bag-in-a-box brand), which is then
packaged by TDL; and it also has a
variety of dry whites and reds from
a mix of makutupora (of course),
chenin blanc, shiraz and cabernet
sauvignon grapes.
More needs to be done, however,
to market and promote Tanzanian
vintages. Martha sets out her ambi-
tions: “Internationally, Tanzanian wines
can be positioned as part of the
welcoming heritage – ‘karibu’ – that
the country is known for. Many inter-
national tourists look for something
unique about the places they visit,
which helps make the trip special in
the first place. Providing something as
part of the Tanzania experience, such
as a great wine made from the unique
makutupora grape, makes for a safari
that’s all the more special.”
Clearly, Tanzania is now producing
some very drinkable wines. So let’s
say ‘cheers’ to the makutupora grape
and to more great local vintages.
■
PIONEERS OF WINE
Wine production in Tanza-nia is not new. In 1961, just after independence, former President Julius Nyerere encouraged the introduction of vines and asked foreign missionaries to provide their expertise.
By 1963 inmates at Isanga prison had planted four acres of grapes and these plant-ings were later extended. The prison later installed a winery plant and, for some time, was the region’s sole buyer of grapes for processing.
MREMBO SPABeautifully natural to bring out your natural beauty
38
The spa that is bringing natural back
holistic or high tech?
MREMBO SPA
F
or decades, the beauty
industry has been commit-
ted to using the most progres-
sive therapies and devising new
innovations and techniques.
From chemical peels and dermal
fillers to laser skin and botox,
the modern world has become
obsessed with the use of danger-
ous and invasive procedures.
Recently, however, traditional
beauty practices have been making
a comeback. Instead of asking for
the latest celebrity fad treatment, we
are returning to our roots to find the
healthiest, safest and most natural
way to stay looking young. It seems
the trusted ancient treatments
have stood the test of time and are
more popular than ever. But how do
old medicine and holistic healing
methods compare with the latest
technology and advancements in
medical knowledge?
ConventionalBridging the gap between conven-
tional beauty methods and invasive
procedures has always been tricky,
but Mrembo Spa in Zanzibar has
managed to convince its many
clients that ancient remedies are
healthier and more effective than
going under the knife.
Located in the heart of Stone
Town is Mrembo (meaning ‘woman
who likes to pamper herself’ in
Swahili), a small spa providing all-
natural beauty treatments from the
Zanzibar Archipelago. Now 10 years
old, the business started in a simple
way with experimental concoctions
at the back of an old antique store.
In creating its products, the spa
has combined knowledge gained
through years of studying Zanzi-
bar’s herbs with the advice of local
Zanzibari and Pemban women.
Many of the ingredients in the spa’s
natural products date back hundreds
of years and are still used by elderly
Swahili women today. By blending
therapeutic and relaxation elements
with fresh flowers, herbs and spices
from the spa’s own plantation and
neighbouring businesses, Mrembo
BY KATE WINGAR
auricair.com 39
has developed a comprehensive portfolio of
treatments for all skin types.
From lemongrass and seaweed scrubs to
hot sand massages and spinal revitalisation,
Mrembo is devoted to tradition, perfecting
the ancient beauty practices that have had
a lasting influence.
The spa’s Lime and Coconut Parcel daily
moisturiser is said to uncover the true bril-
liance of your complexion and to last longer
than chemical face peels, while the Vanilla
and Aloe Vera Scrub banishes fine lines
and deep wrinkles, with similarly refreshing
results to dermal facial fillers.
Mrembo’s products have shown that
ancient holistic recipes can take care of your
beauty regime from top to toe and can be
just as effective as cosmetic surgery. Using
time-honoured recipes passed down through
generations of Zanzibari women, plus natural
ingredients such as coconut, rosewater, lime
and aloe vera, Mrembo Spa and its eight
employees have provided modern society
with alternative healthy beauty treatments to
make us look and feel good without having to
use needles and abrasive methods. www.mrembospa.com
KIDONGE SCRUB
Mrembro is known for its Kidonge clove and spice scrub. Originally used on men in Pemba Island, the treatment is combined with an aromatherapy massage to invigorate and boost energy levels. After being steamed in warm coconut oil, the scrub creates a wonderful heat sensation on the skin and evolves into a creamy moisturiser.
SINGO SCRUB
The Singo, one of the spa’s signature treatments, is traditionally used daily for two weeks by Swahili brides-to-be prior to their wedding day. The compilation of ylang ylang, jasmine and rose petals with indigenous herbs such as mpatchori (a sweet smell-ing herb from Unguja) and mpomia (geranium) creates a smoothing and moisturising effect. Sandalwood, sweet basil, clove and rice powder are added as an exfoliator and the result is fresh and youthful-looking skin.
Mrembo Spa products can be bought from the Mrembo Spa shop.
40
EAT: SIX DEGREES SOUTH GRILL AND WINE BAR
auricair.com 41
We love the seafood on this seashore
L
iving up to its moniker of The Spice
Island, Zanzibar has a reputation for
offering fresh, flavoursome foods – as
epitomised by the Six Degrees South
Grill and Wine Bar. I was lucky enough
to dine there recently, and if I were to
return to the island for one night only,
Six Degrees would be my first choice.
This restaurant had been recommended
to me and I wanted to review it. My friend
and I were seated with a
view along the length of
the restaurant, which looks
onto the starlit ocean. Other
diners were already enjoy-
ing the well-presented food
on a varied and intriguing
menu that included coconut
fish curry, sweet and spicy
chicken wings and Philadelphia po’ boy.
How could I not be hungry?
CalamariThe food soon arrived. We had decided to
share a small selection of dishes. First up
was pickled calamari and octopus, a cold
dish bathed in a rich vinaigrette. Having
previously eaten overcooked and unten-
derised tentacles in Zanzibar, it was pure
pleasure to be served well cooked seafood.
The Mediterranean crostini with a hint of
chilli and sweet vegetables were satisfying
and healthy, adding further crunch to the
lightly toasted ciabatta bread.
The Greek salad was laid out so that each
vegetable could be tasted separately, with
cherry tomatoes, green peppers and black
olives, all grown locally.
After the meal we met the manager
who showed us around and we sat and
talked with him late into the evening. He
is knowledgeable about art and a great
conversationalist.
I returned the following morning and
enjoyed a breakfast of pancakes with bacon
and drizzled honey – a most indulgent start
to the day. Strangely enough, the three
ingredients complemented one another
well. The pancakes were thick and velvety,
the bacon smoked and crispy.
The atmosphere in the front room, with
its spectacularly bright morning light and
its panorama of blue water, was so pleasant
and relaxed that I could happily have sat for
hours. The room had comfortable sofas and
a bar where you could chat or check your
emails. With food, service and ambience
all of the same high standard, Six Degrees
really is a remarkable restaurant – one that
you’ll want to return to.
BY SAM GIMSON
www.6degreessouth.co.tz
My friend and I were seated with a view along the length
of the restaurant, which looks onto the starlit ocean
EAT: SIX DEGREES SOUTH
FOOD WITH A VIEWTempting tastes in an unrivalled setting
CHOICEDifferent engines and spec levels to suit everyone
42
More bushbuck than buffalo…
W
hen I bought my first
bullbar-fronted Land
Rover Discovery back in the early
1990s I was thrilled to drive such a
big and indestructible machine, to
have seven seats in a 5+2 configu-
ration and to enjoy a driving posi-
tion that seemed, at the time, to
make me master of all I surveyed.
But when I look back, here was a
lumpy 4x4 with all the subtlety of the
Berlin Wall, producing a weedy 105
PS (can you believe?) from a 2.5 litre
diesel engine that Massey Ferguson
might have rejected as being too
noisy. And with all the cornering abil-
ity of the late Luciano Pavarotti after
a particularly agreeable lunch.
It’s amazing how technology
moves on so quickly but impercep-
tibly, and how SUVs can seemingly
be transformed in a generation from
asthmatic tanks into sprightly, light-
on-their feet performers.
So please welcome the new Land
Rover Discovery Sport (DS). Gone is
the brutal profile of bygone Discos to
be replaced by something that looks
remarkably like an older brother to
the manufacturer’s now defunct and
slightly more svelte Freelander range
– although the car also borrows lines
and themes from other current Land
Rover models.
To start with, Land Rover is offering
a range of four-cylinder turbocharged
petrol and turbo-diesel engines
with stop/start technology. Petrol
derivatives use an all-alloy Si4 2.0
litre engine with 240 PS. The 2.2 litre
turbo-diesel is available in either 150
PS TD4 or 190 PS SD4 specification,
with both the TD4 and SD4 produc-
ing the same 420 Nm of torque.
AccelerationThe punchy 2.2 SD4 model comes
with a nine-speed automatic or six-
speed manual gearbox and offers a
meaty 190 PS translating into a 0 to
100 kph acceleration time of about
8.5 seconds – not bad for a less-than-
aerodynamic 4x4. Using the vehicle’s
eco mode fuel-saving option,
owners can expect a 15 per cent
improvement on the old Freelander’s
consumption figures.
Land Rover says a smaller and
more fuel-efficient eD4 turbo-diesel
model is also on its way later this year
with mightily impressive CO2 figures
of 119 g/km – admittedly not of any
real interest to us in East Africa, but
vital for sales in carbon emission
obsessed European markets.
An East Africa-based Jaguar Land
Rover dealer told ‘Explorer’: “We
will have both the petrol and diesel
engines available for our market.
We will have at least nine variants to
give the potential customer a choice
between the two different engines
and spec levels.”
The dealer added: “We see the
Disco Sport as a compact Discov-
ery, much the same as the hugely
successful Range Rover Sport (RRS) (is
to the Range Rover). The RRS created
a huge following for those who
wanted the Range Rover experience,
BY GARY GIMSON
Being a Land Rover, superb off-road performance comes as
standard; in fact, it is pretty much written into the marque’s DNA
DRIVE: LAND ROVER DISCOVERY SPORT
INTERIOR DESIGNSleek interiors with high-tech features
auricair.com 43
More bushbuck than buffalo…
but in a more compact package.”
For those who love to be
bombarded with information, there’s
an all-new eight-inch touch screen
infotainment system with intuitive
controls and heightened connectivity
plus a Head Up Display that projects
key driving data onto the windscreen.
TechnologyBeing a Land Rover, superb off-road
performance comes as standard; in
fact, it is pretty much written into
the marque’s DNA. The new model
has a variety of all-terrain technol-
ogy including Terrain Response® and
Wade Sensing™ (this Disco can travel
through water up to 600 mm deep
without a snorkel) as well as Active
Driveline, which switches seamlessly
between two- and four-wheel drive.
The DS also comes with the following
features, many of which are unique
to Land Rover: Hill Descent Control®,
Gradient Release Control®, Roll
Stability Control, Dynamic Stability
Control, Electronic Traction Control
and Engine Drag Torque Control.
There’s also an all-new multi-link axle
to enhance off-road agility.
All very well, but when can we
expect to see the new DS in East
Africa? It’s understood that the first
consignment of DS models will arrive
in Tanzania between mid April and
mid May and at roughly the same time
in neighbouring Kenya and Uganda.
At first sight, there are several 4x4s
out there which might be seen as
rivals to the DS; but when you sit
down and actually compare specs,
versatility, comfort, market position-
ing and all the virtues a Land Rover
undoubtedly has to offer, then this
car has few if any real direct competi-
tors in what’s described as the
premium compact SUV market.
Yet it remains to be seen, however,
whether the new DS is really man
enough for all that East Africa can
throw at. Maybe, when the truth is
told, this new Land Rover is a mere
soft-roader for townies (and there is
nothing wrong with that) rather than
a hairy-chested, export strength,
go-anywhere SUV designed for those
weekends in the bush that its sister
Discovery and Range Rover models
handle so well. ■
DRIVE: LAND ROVER DISCOVERY SPORT
auricair.com 45
T A N Z A N I A
N
Kigoma
Sumbawanga
Songea
Ma�aIringa
Morogoro
Tanga
Dodoma
Ruaha
Tabora
Zanzibar
Pemba
DAR ES SALAAM
Kahama
Rubondo
Arusha
Mwanza
Buboka
Lake Manyara
Serengeti
Masai Mara
Katavi
MahaleMpanda
Entebbe
AURIC AIR ROUTE MAP
46
VISA INFORMATION
Most people will require a visa to enter Tanzania. Usually a tourist visa is issued, unless you are travelling on business, in which case you require a different visa.
Any traveller into Tanzania who is from a non-Commonwealth country – unless there is an agreement between the traveller’s country and Tanzania, in which case the visa is waived – will require a valid visa to gain entry. Citizens from the following Commonwealth countries will, however, require a visa to enter Tanzania: United Kingdom, Canada, Nigeria, India, Pakistan, New Zealand and Australia.
Tanzania visas can be obtained from the following:
› Entry points into the United Republic of Tanzania such as Dar es Salaam International Airport and Zanzibar Airport.
› The office of the Director of Immigration Services, Dar es Salaam, and the office of the Principal Immigration Officer, Zanzibar.
› Tanzania High Commissions or embassies abroad.
KENYAN VISAS
All visitors entering Kenya – except those who are citizens of Ethiopia, San Marino, Turkey and Uruguay – require a visa.
These cost US$ 50 for a single entry visa. You can also purchase a multiple entry visa for US$ 100.
Visa application forms can be completed online ahead of your travels, or on arrival in Kenya.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
TRAVEL INFORMATION
+255 765 11 8888 or 715 30 [email protected] www.tropicalint.com
Quality Electrical ProductsWide range of domestic, industrial, mining, distribution power lines and home appliances
auricair.com 47
■
BAGGAGE
Every passenger travelling with Auric Air gets a free baggage allowance as follows:
› Adults and children: Checked baggage of 15 kg, hand baggage of 5 kg
› Infants: Combined checked baggage and hand baggage of 3 kg.
Excess baggage will be charged per kilogram. Owing to the size and weight restrictions of the aircraft, we cannot guarantee to transport excess baggage on the same flight.
Because of the nature of the aircraft, your baggage must consist of small, soft bags. Metal suitcases with sharp, pointed edges are prohibited.
TRAVEL TIPS
To ensure you have the smoothest possible flight, here are some of our top tips for a top trip.
Make sure you arrive in good time, as the check-in desks close 20 minutes before the scheduled departure time. Passengers arriving after this time may not be accepted for travel, and liable for a no-show fee.
Auric Air does not provide alcohol on its aircraft, and passengers are not allowed to bring their own – or any food items – on board. Please bear this in mind before boarding. All flights are also non-smoking.
Electronic equipment is allowed on board, including mobile telephones, laptops, radios, CD players and handheld games consoles, however for safety reasons, the use of these items may be limited, or forbidden during flying.
MORE INFORMATION
Head to www.auricair.com/General/terms for more information on travelling with Auric Air.
GET CONNECTED
You can keep in contact with Auric across social media at:
www.facebook.com/auricair
www.instagram.com/auricair
www.twitter.com/auricair
CHILDREN
Children are welcome on board Auric Air after their 11th birthday. Unfortunately, before this age, we cannot accept unaccompanied minors. Infants under the age of two weeks will also not be accepted for travel.
ANIMALS
Animals and pets may travel on our aircraft, subject to criteria such as size and quantity. For more information, please contact our call centre on +255 783 233334.
Auric Air’s Call Centre is open 09:00 to 13:00 and 14:00 to 17:00 daily.
TRAVEL INFORMATION
AURIC AIR CONTACT DETAILS
MWANZA OFFICEAuric Air Services Ltd PO Box 336, Mwanza Cell: +255 783 233 334; 255 736 200 849 Email: [email protected]; [email protected]
DAR ES SALAAM OFFICEAuric Air Services Ltd T-14, First Floor, Haidery Plaza Upanga/Kisutu Street, Dar es Salaam Tel: (Dar Airport) +255 (0)688 937 165 Tel: (Town Office) +255 (0)688 937 166 Email: [email protected]
ARUSHA OFFICEAuric Air Services Ltd TFA Arusha Shopping Centre (Nakumatt) Opp. Kilombero Market Office No 19, West Wing, Arusha Cell: +255 (0)688 723 274 Email: [email protected]
48
PILOT’S EYE VIEW
MOUNTAIN OF LIGHTSnow-capped Kili surrounded by an early morning mist
