b-21 aug/sept buzz

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The Buzz is a magazine of fine wine and the culture that surrounds it.

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Page 1: B-21 Aug/Sept Buzz
Page 2: B-21 Aug/Sept Buzz

Italyround and toasty, creamy and long. In France this tete de cuvee would carry an extravagant price, but from Italy, royalty costs much less. I also have Bisol’s Crede, with the same great texture and a fruitier drive at an even easier price.2009 Bisol Prosecco Superiore Cartizze 94RAS $39.992010 Bisol Prosecco Crede 89WA $17.99

TRIUMPHANT RETURN IN TUSCANYWhat a story I picked up in Vinitaly. More than 50 years ago, a young man left Tuscany to seek his fortune in America. He found it in Canada where he built a trucking empire. Pierluigi Tolaini returned home in the 1990s to start a new winery in one of the finest corners of Chianti Classico with two vineyards in Castelnuovo Berardenga. Today Tolaini has a Tre Bicchieri on his shelf, as well as a classic Chianti and cult super-Tuscan Valdisanti. The one I brought home for you is Al Passo, Tolaini’s lush bend of sangiovese and merlot (80/20), an affordable offering that’s incredibly dark and rich, and purely opulent. You’ll love Tolaini’s work. To introduce you, I’ll knock off five bucks here.2007 Tolaini Al Passo 92WA $19.99

INCOMING! 97PT 2007 CASANOVA DI NERI BRUNELLE, TENUTA NUOVA HAS LANDEDThis is a Brunello you won’t forget, maybe the love of your life, full bodied, muscular, and voluptuous. Utterly charming, Almost as beautiful as the 2006 that Suckling said was 100 points. The 2007 comes darn close. Parker just called it at 95+ and “another terrific showing from Giacomo Neri” and both Suckling and Wine Enthusiast put it at 97. The 2007 Tenuta Nuova is intensely packed with aromas, saturated flavors of ripe fruit and very dark candies with a finish long enough to savor it all ll. I’m awed by the dedication of Sig, di Neri, and bowled over by all his Brunellos, from the white label up to the greatest, the Cerretalto. So is everyone else. Since his Tenuta Nuova topped the Top 100 in 2001 and it’s been eagerly awaited every year. At last this year’s is here. You want to get it in your cellar now. Then wait a little and give it time when you open it. This is luxuriant drinking and a terrific price. You’ll enjoy both for a long time.2007 Casanova di Neri Brunello Tenuta Nuova 97WE, 97JS, 95+WA $69.99

BIG VIETTI BARLO SALE: $40 OFF ‘07 BRUNATEOne high point of my trip to Vinitaly is to visit with Vietti. Ever since I met them I’ve been astonished by their consistent quality, every vintage, every price, every grape, from barbera to moscato (you gotta try that some time). However, Barolo is their crowning achievement, 2006 and 2007 being their f inest vintages. I admit Barolo is confusing, but you never get lost with Vietti. I have 4 of their 15 Barolos from those vintages and they are exquisite, the top cru vineyards ranking 95 to 98 points! Even lowly Castiglione, an assemblage, got 93 from WA and will live 20 years. Collectors however are snapping up ‘06s and ‘07s from the best single vineyards: the plush, suave Brunate from La Morra, the massive Lazzarito from Serralunga or the beautifully Burgundian Rocche, which some say is the prettiest flower in the Vietti garden. Not sure how to make the pick. The way I’ve cut prices, you can afford to put all of them in your collection. Cellar them, for these Vietti Barolos will pay dividends for two or three decades to come.2006 Vietti Brunate 97WE, 95+WA $119.99...unusually dark and plush with impressive intensity and crafted aromas of black fruit, spice, earth, licorice, balsam and gianduia chocolate-hazelnut spread...

‘07 CASTELLANI COLLE CRISTI WILL WOW YOU.My highest recommendation. Hear me now: within a decade, Castellani prices will double. You want to get in on this. No young Amarone has ever impressed me like this 2007 Colle Cristi. Remarkable concentration, impeccable balance, with a melange of tobacco, nicotine, licorice and nutty fruit cake. Solid with adult pleasures of dark chocolate, roasted meat and thick liqueur already with 20 years to go. For years the Castellani family sold their harvest to Bertani and other large firms. No longer. Sergio and sons now select the best grapes of their huge holdings in Valpolicella to bear the Castellani name. As word gets out, the price will soar because to get a better Amarone you’d have to pop for Dal Forno at ten times the price. Castellani ’s Amarone is a terrif ic value opportunity now and the 2007 a deliciously intense wine for a long time to come.2007 Castellani Colle Cristi 95RAS, 93WS $44.99

APULIA JEWEL IN THE HEEL OF THE BOOTStopped by Fratelli Lyon in the Miami Design District last week (a midday stop for an Illy). Saw a staffer storing silver and napkins in a 1996 Rivera Il Falcone wooden case. Says lots about their wine selection and utility. Struck me funny having just tasted the 2006 a few days before, and knew I had to bring it to your attention. We both have to go south to make this point, all the way to the boot’s heel. Rugged Apulia is known for full-flavored wines and this is the finest I have tasted from this area. A lot of people go there for cheap peasant reds. Wrong idea, Falcone is Apulian nobility. Marvelously intense and exuberant, big, sleek and sexy. It’s made from the lusty Nero di Troia (a gift from Helen?) and the popular Montepulciano, and they’ll be happy together for another 15 years. Il Falcone is a tribute to Federico II, a master of falconry as well as King of Sicily and the Holy Roman Empire. He built the massive f ive-sided Castel del Monte during the 13th century and it still dominates the landscape and gives its name to the D.O.C. Rivera shows the potential of Castel del Monte wines ...if you can find them. I’ve got Il Falcone for you Italian wine lovers at $29.99, explore the best of Apulia-a 94-point knockout.2006 Rivera Il Falcone 94RAS, 92WA $29.99

MILLION-DOLLAR PROSECCO WAS MY BIGGEST SCORE IN VINITALYHonest, five days in Vinitaly and the most exciting trophy I brought home is... a Prosecco! Not the ordinary Prosecco with more bubbles for fewer bucks. This is Bisol... the original. Prosecco we never see, one that matches the grand marques of Champagne. It is unlike any you have ever tasted. In fact, Bisol made the rep of Valdobbiadene, now key to the DOCG of Prosecco. The vineyards on the hill of Cartizze, where Bisol makes its top cru, now sell for $1 million an acre. No wonder this goes so well with caviar! This is the Le Mesnil of Prosecco, the most famous in the region. The wine is remarkably

Page 3: B-21 Aug/Sept Buzz

2007 Vietti Brunate 98WA $179.99...Layers of dark fruit, mocha, chocolate, menthol, pine and spices emerge... a powerhouse, with massive tannins, great body and fabulous length...

2006 Vietti Rocche 97WA $119.99...the fruit gains even more clarity while the bouquet blossoms with incredible grace, all supported by ultra-fine, silky tannins....

2006 Vietti Lazzarito 97WA $119.99...the fruit gains even more clarity while the bouquet blossoms with incredible grace, all supported by ultra-fine, silky tannins....

2006 Vietti Rocche 97WA $119.99...melange of dark, mineral-infused fruit flows from the glass as the large-scaled Lazzarito gradually shows off its class. Licorice, tar, smoke and earthiness add layers of complexity and nuance...

2007 Vietti Lazzarito 96+WA $149.99 (750ml) $399.99 (1.5L)...loaded with dark fruit, flowers of all sorts, sweet menthol and minerals, all of which flow through to the long, powerful finish...

BAROLO MADNESS! STEAL MY TOP 06S: BROVIA, CLERICO, GRASSO, & MORE!This list is as incredible as the vintage: All the grand names Barolo connoisseurs love, from Azelia to Vietti. If 2006 was a terrific year across Barolo, you know quality was out of sight in the greatest vineyards like Giuseppe Rinaldi’s Brunate, a 97-pointer. Or Azelia’s Bricco Fiasco, Brovia’s Garblèt Sue’, Grasso’s Ciabot Manzoni, and Vietti’s Lazzarito, all of which had Spectator, Parker and me raving 94 and up. I’ve never seen a vintage with such consistently high quality. Masterful demonstrations of why Barolo is the king of Italian reds, examples from the crus. Nebbiolo loves terroir like great pinot noir of Burgundy, and reflects its splendid diversity. Hard for me to pick a favorite! Maybe for you too? Whether you prefer the mods or the traditionalists, how do you choose just one? Here’s an idea: Buy a case. Mix up any 12 of these 2006 Barolos, and I’ll knock another 5 percent right off the bottom! That could save you another $50 or more. Plus, if you stock up now you can guarantee that you’ll have this vintage to enjoy for many years to come.

2006 Azelia Bricco Fiasco Barolo 94WA $69.99 ..Exotic, ripe red fruit, smoke and menthol are but a few of the nuances that gradually emerge as this refined and impeccably elegant wine rises from the glass....

2006 Azelia San Rocco Barolo 1.5L - 95WA $169.99 ...sensual and enveloping. It’s hard to know where to start with the San Rocco, as fruit, acidity and structure are all beautifully integrated and refined...

2006 Brovia Barolo 91WA $49.99...graced with subtle red fruits, menthol, licorice and anise, all of which come together on a deceptively medium-bodied frame....

2006 Brovia Ca’ Mia Barolo 96WA $74.99...A blast of smoke, dark wild cherries and plums follows. Everything comes together beautifully in this virile, powerful wine...

2006 Brovia Garblèt Sue’ Barolo 95WA $64.99 (750ml) $139.99 (1.5L)...Bright red fruit, smoke, tar, incense and iron are just some o f t h e nuances that come together in this focused, potent Barolo....

2006 Brovia Rocche Barolo 1.5L-96WA $159.99 ...a powerful, inward Rocche in need of significant cellaring. ...Sweet roses and tar have the last word on the magnificent, perfumed finish....

2006 Domenico Clerico Pajana Barolo 96WA $89.99 ...lovely definition... Layers of ripe dark fruit, spices, flowers, licorice and minerals develop seamlessly through to the close....

2006 Fratelli Revello Conca Barolo 93WA $59.99 (750ml) $129.99 (1.5L)...dark red cherries, spices and menthol, all of which come $129.99 (1.5L)together in a polished, focused expression of Nebbiolo....

2006 Giacomo Conterno Cascina Francia Barolo 96+WA $149.99 (750ml) $299.99 (1.5L)....deep, muscular wine endowed with superb richness,inner perfume and structure...The finish alone is breathtakingly beautiful....

2006 Mario Marengo Bricco Viole Barolo 92WA $49.99...quite striking... tannins are firm yet nicely integrated as sweet red berries, flowers, spices and mint linger on the elegant close....

2006 Mascarello Monprivato Barolo 96WA $89.99...an explosive Monprivato endowed with layers of ripe red fruit backed up by firm, muscular tannins that speak with great eloquence....

2006 Giuseppe Rinaldi Brunate le Coste Barolo 1.5L-97WA $299.99...Bright red fruit, smoke, tar, incense and iron are just some of the nuances that come together in this focused, potent Barolo....

2006 Paolo Scavino Bric del Fiasc Barolo 95WA $94.99 ...Dark red fruits, smoke and grilled herbs are just some of the nuances that come to life as this imposing, focused Barolo opens up....

2006 Paolo Scavino Carobric Barolo 93WA $79.99 ...a deep, sensual beauty endowed with gorgeous purity in its layers of dark red fruits, smoke and tobacco. Deceptively medium in body, the wine caresses the palate all the way through to the firm, sturdy finish....

2006 Silvio Grasso Barolo 92RAS $24.992006 Prunotto Barolo 92RAS, 90WS $39.99 Bordering on black currant in flavor, this chewy red also boasts tar and tobacco notes. Though silky up front, this needs time to absorb its stiff tannins.

2006 Silvio Grasso Ciabot Manzoni Barolo 96RAS $69.99 (750ml) $149.99 (1.5L)...profile of dark red fruit, menthol, spices and sweet French oak.... Over time the tannins are likely to become increasingly prominent...

2006 Vietti Rocche Barolo 97WS $119.99 ...shows incredible definition in detail in its perfumed, floral personality. ...the fruit gains even more clarity while the bouquet blossoms with incredible grace, all supported by ultra-fine, silky tannins....

Pre-Sale On 2008 Barolos That Are Better Than ‘07!Everyone knows that 2006 and 2007 were terrific world beating vintages in Barolo. This is why there’s so much clamor and such prices for them. Also why some folks have neglected 2008, a big mistake. Wise wine buyers know broad vintage declarations are never wholly true. When I taste closely the 2008 vintage can be exceptional, in fact better than 2007 in many instances. I went through dozens and dozens of ‘08s at Vinitaly, very carefully. Some of the big guns didn’t do so well and some of the little guys came through beautifully. One favorite of mine, Luigi Pira produced gorgeous ‘08’s; I tasted the wines three times to be sure. Azelia,

Revello and Seghesio are winners too in my book, and Parker’s as well. This was a vintage where the vineyard expression was very clear. To be honest, that character can get lost in the modern practice of aging in French barriques. Winemakers who stick to the big, old-fashioned foudres in 08 seemed to do much better, especially those with great sites. The 2008s from those top vineyards will show strong typicity and be somewhat early maturing but not precocious. No question the ‘06s and ‘7s are great wines but there’s also wisdom - and better buys - when you don’t follow the herd. Review my 2008 picks and order now. You’ll be ahead of the crowd, drinking better and saving big.

2008 Pira Luigi Barolo Serralunga 95WA, 92RAS $29.99....deep, muscular wine endowed with superb richness,inner perfume and structure...The finish alone is breathtakingly beautiful....

2008 Pira Luigi Barolo Margheria 93WA, 92RAS $42.99...Dark cherries, plums, asphalt, melted road tar, dried rose petals and licorice are some of the many notes that come to life... This is a terrific showing....

2008 Pira Luigi Barolo Marenca 95+WA, 95RAS $52.99...center of bright red berries that is surprisingly supple and elegant. Sweet red cherries, freshly cut flowers, spices and mint take shape ...boasts striking inner perfume and a long, chalky yet seamless finish that is the essence of harmony....

2008 Pira Luigi Barolo Vigna Rionda 95+WA, 93RAS $76.99...Raspberries, hard candy, flowers, mint and sweet spices are some of the many notes that flow ...Silky tannins are present, but they are nearly covered by the pure sensuality of the fruit. ...The finish is intense and totally haunting....

2008 Fratelli Revello Barolo Gattera 93+WA $42.99 ...shows lovely depth in its dark red fruit, flowers and spices. The Gattera boasts gorgeous transparency in its fruit, fabulous length and great overall balance....

2008 Fratelli Revello Barolo Giachini 94WA $49.99 ...Dark red fruit, flowers, spices and licorice are some of the notes that are layered into the mid-palate and finish. French oak adds volume and depth...

2008 Fratelli Revello Barolo Rocche dell’Annunziata 95WA $79.99 ...Sweet rose petals, raspberries, hard candy and spices are woven together in a fabric of notable class. ...Floral notes wrap around the palate in stunning style as the fruit shows a last burst of Pinot-like sweetness....

2008 Seghesio Barolo 92WA $27.99 ...bursts from the glass with tons of richness and concentration for the year. Dark red fruit, flowers and licorice wrap around the insistent, powerful finish....

2008 Seghesio Barolo La Villa 94WA $42.99 ....emerges from the glass with generous dark red fruit, flowers, menthol, pine and licorice, all supported by firm, massive tannins. French oak gives the wine volume and textural depth, but without being intrusive....

2008 Azelia Barolo Bricco Fiasco 94WA $49.99 ...endowed with layers of black fruit, iron, smoke, licorice and tar. ...a big, full-bodied Barolo graced with exceptional overall balance and tons of energy. The energy and focus of the virile finish is something to behold....

2008 Azelia Barolo Margheria 94WA $49.99 ...opens with a sweet, inviting bouquet redolent of hard candy, flowers, mint and licorice. ...Layers of dark fruit flow through to a powerful, incisive finish laced with dried flowers and spices. ...It is another super-classy wine from Azelia..

2008 Azelia Barolo San Rocco 95WA $54.99 (ml) $129.99 (1.5L) ...bursts from the glass with an exciting melange of dark fruit, mocha, tar, smoke and licorice. ...Dark fruit, smoke, licorice and tar wrap around the building, muscular finish...

Page 4: B-21 Aug/Sept Buzz

Pascal Agrapart (Avize)Having visited Pascal Agrapart in early 2008, the “Terroirs” and “Les 7 Crus” are now almost B-21 “house Champagnes… why do I hedge… they are. Chardonnay land, Avize. Agrapart makes full throttle styles with barrel fermentation character and wines that are very ready to drink. Powerful and pleasurable. In the case of Les 7 Crus and the Rose Agrapart has vineyards outside of Avize so you will notice the wines rated as 1er.

NV Les 7 Crus $34.99/$31.49 BTC “Spiced with licorice snap, pickled ginger and clove, this is firm and focused, with flavors of green apple, white peach and lemon peel.” 91WS

NV Terroirs $39.99 3L $199.99 “The style, with barrel fermentation, is a heavier and richer yet very clean and bright with the complexity rarely found at this price.” 93RAS

Brut Rose 1er Cru $$44.99/$39.99 BTC “The Agrapart Rose is still a secret and is sold only to those of us who work with all of the wines of Agrapart as production is very limited.” 91RAS

1998 Vieux Millesimes $109.99 “This is L’Avizoise, from 60+ year old vines with later disgorgement only from strong vintages. Deeper richer, longer and contemplative.” 94RAS

Paul Bara (Bouzy) Bouzy sits in the southern part of the Montagne de Reims, renowned as home to many of the greatest and most powerful wines made from Pinot Noir. Paul Bara is one the oldest producers there and has been for years imported by Kermit Lynch. Not exactly a secret any longer, because Kermit Lynch can’t keep many of those with his excellent producers, but a household word either as the quantities don’t allow for the wines to be everywhere.

2004 Paul Bara Brut Grand Cru 93RAS $59.99 375ml $29.99 1.5L $129.99 “Spiced with licorice snap, pickled ginger and clove, this is firm and focused, with flavors of green apple, white peach and lemon peel.” 91WS

NV Paul Bara Brut Rose $49.99

2004 Paul Bara Special Club $79.99 95RAS

Andrew Jefford, author o f T h e N e w F r a n c e , ca l ls them “…essent ia l r e fe rence s for a nyone who wants to enjoy and understand the ripe, dry richness of Bouzy…”

Guy Charlemagne (Le Mesnil Sur Oger) Listed as an “expressive” grower by Champagne maven Tom Stevenson, Guy Charlemagne is in the prime time apex of world class Chardonnay vines of Le Mesnil Sur Oger, next door neighbor to Salon. These are terroir driven wines that happen to sparkle, you know they are Chardonnay and from the chalky, mineral laden soils of NE France. It is very easy to think, if you can actually control your brain while drinking these, that some great white wine producer in Burgundy has done something they shouldn’t have (namely go against the AOC and put Champagne on the label)—and you wouldn’t be far off!

Extra Brut $34.99 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir “Crisp, with a stony mineral undertow and subtle notes of pippin apple, lemon zest, ginger and smoke. Lightly juicy and well-focused throughout. Drink now through 2016.”

Reserve Brut 100% Chardonnay $39.99 1.5L $89.99 “Fresh and focused, with a panoply of flavors—ripe fruit notes of mango, tangy quince and tangerine, joined by a minerally sublayer of smoke, stone and spice. This shows firm structure and intensity, but the overall juiciness of the acidity makes this very appealing right now. Drink now through 2018.” 92WS

Rose Brut $39.99 100% Pinot Noir “Bright and lively, offering notes of fresh-cut pink grapefruit, black cherry and peach, with hints of spice cake, tea rose and fresh ginger. There’s good intensity to this, but with the refined bead the wine seems elegant overall. Delicious. Drink now through 2020.” 92WS

2006 Blanc de Blancs $44.99 100% Chardonnay “Dry and lightly chalky, with hints of bread dough and nut accenting quince, white peach, smoky mineral and lemon curd. Open-knit and focused, with a fresh finish.” 91WS

2004 Mesnillesime $59.99 94RAS 100% Chardonnay The best value in vintage Champagne, and at this price in Champagne overall. 100% Chardonnay from limestone parcels an average of 40 yrs vine age. No malolactic fermentation but vinified in oak so it is voluminous and mineral. A beautiful mouthful. Long lived wine from a powerful vintage. If you like mature Champagne, this one will be rewarding.

Is there anything more appetizing and mouthwatering than the sound of a bottle of Champagne being opened? Ok, so I don’t suppress the “pop!” not only because I don’t know how but really because I don’t care to know how, I like the expression, the exclaiming of an event. Opening a bottle of Champagne should be an event, and expression is something these wines, Champagnes, deliver. These are “grower” Champagnes, meaning exactly what it sounds like, that they are made by the people tending the vineyards and are particular. Expressing place, coming from villages and exhibiting “terroir,” these are precisely the types of wines I would choose to serve at a special occasion. Below are three producers whose wines set standards for their 100% Grand Cru rated villages which will be listed below with the wines. Agrapart & Fils and Guy Charlemagne are within the Cotes des Blanc district, thought by many to produce some of the best wines made from Chardonnay, about 95% of the wines being produced from the varietal, and Paul Bara comes from the Montagne de Reims district where Pinot Noir is the dominant grape. All three show style for miles and are exactly the types of wines B-21 chooses to present to you knowing that you will appreciate it.

A PERFECT WEDDING: ARTISAN GROWERS MEET CHAMPAGNE TERROIR

Guy Charlemagne Sampler High Five Starter Kit $249.99

1 bottle apiece: Extra Brut, Brut Rose, Brut Reserve Blanc de Blanc, 2006 Blanc de Blanc, 2004 Mesnillesime

Page 5: B-21 Aug/Sept Buzz

BUBBLES WITHOUTBORDERSAll that sparkles is not French. And bubbles from the rest of Europe can be as exquisite as masterful Champagne or more frivolous. Italian Proseccos and Moscatos and Spanish Cavas come in a wide world of styles and prices that are inviting for summer tables from wedding banquets to patio parties.

There’s much more to them than an affordable cost. In fact both Italy and Spain produce luxury cuvees priced from $40 to $100, Proseccos come from a noble DOC of their own high in the north of Italy. The best of them like the top cuvees of Bisol have the quality (and the price) of grand French marques. Others are refreshing and playful, eager to go to the beach or mix it up in sparkling cocktails as easy as they are pretty. Just add a raspberry or a cucumber slice. Or both. I have.

Likewise the Cavas of Spain are made with the same painstaking traditional methods of fermentation a in Champagne but with Catalan

grapes. Some are perfect for big crowds or a small snack of tapas, but the grand winesof Agusti Torrello Mata, Gramona and others are treasures to be shared with the best of friends.

The moscatos from the Barolo region are more frizzante than sparkling, not so dry or grandly made, yet their aroma and flavor are just as charming. Served cold, their sweetness and color makes for a peach of an afternoon. And give a different punch to a Bellini.

For all their fizz, Prosecco, Cavas and Moscato are partners for more than an occasional toast. They all do surprisingly well with the salt and spice of contemporary foods, from sushi to pad thai, hard cheeses and chocolate.

PROSECCONino Franco Rustico Valdobbiadene 90RAS, 89WA $17.99Zonin Brut Veneto $8.99Santa Margherita Valdobbiadene 91W&S $14.99Ruffino Veneto $9.992010 Bisol Crede Valdobbiadene 90RAS, 89WA $17.99The soils here has a good amount of clay, so more fullness on the nose. A generous attack that is very rich on the palate. So rewarding as well in the finish it makes a complete set….Crisp pears, green apples and spices, all of which come together in a rich, creamy style that is highly appealing.2008 Bisol Superiore Cartizze Dry, Valdobbiadene 94 RAS, 89ST $39.99Such refinement, grace. It is complete. Bubbles are fine. It’s hard to find a Champagne that can match the delicacy here. Brilliant….Persistent froth. Intense white peach, pear and cinnamon aromas are lifted by white flowers. Adami Garbel, Treviso $12.99Zardetto Brut, Vadobbiadene $11.99 La Marca di Conigliano 86WE $12.99

MOSCATO D’ASTI2010 Paolo Saracco 90WA $14.99 Luccio $9.992011 Vietti Cascinetta 91B21 90JO $13.99Pale sunshine yellow color and slight frizzante, this Moscato d’Asti has intense aromas of peaches, rose petals and ginger. On the palate it is delicately sweet and sparkling with modest acidity, good balance, good complexity and a finish of fresh apricots.

Villa Rosa $11.992010 La Spinetta Bricco Quaglia $16.99 Castello del Poggio 90JO $13.99

CAVASCristalino Brut 91W&S $7.99 2007 Juve Y Camps Brut Reserva Familia 90WA $15.992007 Marques de Gelida Brut 89WA $13.992006 Gramona Imperial 91WA $24.992008 Agusti Torrello Mata Brut Reserva 90RB, 88WA $24.99Minimum ageing 24 mos. Fresh and broad swaths of dough, yeast and green and yellow delicious apples and some pear. Very drinkable. These ATMs are not just Cava, think of them in the arena of comparably priced Champagne and you will be very happy.2009 Agusti Torrello Mata Rosat Trepat 92+ RB $38.99Minimum ageing 24 mos. Fresh and broad swaths of dough, yeast and green and yellow delicious apples and some pear. Very drinkable. These ATMs are not just Cava, think of them in the arena of comparably priced Champagne and you will be very happy.2006 Agusti Torrello Mata Kripta 93 RB $99.99From 60 yr vines of the 3 traditional white grapes of Kripta is the “fantasy” wine of the very decorated producer Agusti Torello Mata This wine is site specific and aged 48 months before release. Fine in texture with apple, pear and earth tones with light pastry dough tenderness. A new level for Cava .

Page 6: B-21 Aug/Sept Buzz

SOUTH AFRICAN SAFARI South African wine is so easy to love. Adorable critter-like labels, unique blends and great values! White wine has always been the cash crop of South Africa, with much of it distilled to make brandy. Though more white may be planted and typically what ends up in my shopping cart, these South African reds I sampled recently were very impressive. Top production is still Syrah/Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinotage with Syrah/Shiraz (& blends) on the rise as wineries crank out high quality wines. And we can’t forget about the Safrican native Pinotage, a man-made crossing between Pinot Noir and Cinsault, which has made dramatic improvements in the market. Not seeing much from the 100% category, it’s blending and beyond! This star of the southern hemisphere is shinin’ because of these unique and exciting blends. But then again at this level of quality and at these prices, they’re all stars!

2010 Jam Jar Sweet Shiraz $7.99If you recoil at pucker-dry reds, this sweetie is for you. Jam Jar lives up to its name, ripe with all the berry patch flavors and spice of Syrah and its natural sugar. Clean and well-balanced, not cloying. Makes turkey or spaghetti dinner a picnic. 90CS

2009 Man Vintners Pinotage $7.99This wine takes a more modern approach to South Africa’s indigenous grape variety. 30% of the wine was matured in American and French oak barrels (25% new) for 12 months. 14% Shiraz was added for its silky tannin structure and fruit spice flavors. Full body, bold red- berry flavors, sweet oak with touches of tobacco, cinnamon and nutmeg. Great balance of soft n’ hearty. This Pinotage goes well with a wide range of foods from grilled meats to spicy curries. It’s the only wine I have ever heard of that perfectly complements eel to a steaming bowl of ‘roo stew. 89SS

2011 Boekenhoutskloof The Wolftrap $8.99A bold blend of 65% Syrah, 32% Mourvedre, and 3% Viognier. Ripe black fruit, cherry and spice with floral notes from the splash of Viognier. Smooth and juicy. Killer buy! 90SS, (89WE)

2010 Porcupine Ridge Syrah $9.99A beautiful peppery bouquet like taking a whiff of Northern Rhone. Pure fruit, balanced white and black pepper with divine earthy notes. Great buy! 89SS

2009 Spice Route Chakalaka $17.99A blend of 37%, Syrah, 22% Mourvedre, 18% Carignan, 10% Petite Sirah, 10% Grenache and 4% Tannat. Great acidity and vibrant red fruit. I served it with Chakalaka (spicy authentic S. African veggie relish) and it was a hit! Excellent value and fun to say… Chaka-laka! 91SS, (90WA, 90WS)

2009 De Toren Fusion V $41.99Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Rich currant and layered cocoa with hints of espresso. Big wine and worth every penny. 93SS, (92WS)

2008 Stark Conde Cabernet Sauvignon $19.99Cabernet Sauvignon with Merlot and Petit Verdot. Juicy, crushed plum, currant paste and roasted fig flavors, all framed by toasty spice notes that integrate nicely through the briary finish. Shows solid grip for the cellar. Drink now through 2020. 92WS (91SS)

2010 Boekenhoutskloof Chocolate Block $27.99It had me at chocolate. This is a well-crafted Rhone(ish) blend from Mark Kent and crew. 72% Syrah, 7% Grenache, 13% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cinsault and 2% Viognier. Rustic, earthy bouquet and a healthy quantity of herbs. Smooth, lush and rounded on the entry with crisp acidity to cut through that plush dark berried fruit interlaced with rosemary and pepper. 91SS, (90RP)

2009 Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir $34.99Terrior really shines though on this one; low yields, stony, clay rich soil with cool maritime climate. Elegant yet racy in style. Dark, silky with hints of smoke, minerality and spice. A step up from the 2008, at the same price! De-Lovely! 92SS, (93WA)

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MADEIRA RISINGCan the unique and glorious wines of Madeira be at the center of the American palate again?

They were centuries ago: Crisp Sercial and rich aged Malmsey were the toast of the New World colonies and came from a Mid-Atlantic paradise that the Old World mariners used as a crossroads way station in their explorations.

Madeira is still 750 miles west of Mother Portugal, a beautiful volcanic island as floral as Hawaii, its grapes and wines as hand crafted as ever. Yet it can have a place at the modern table, perhaps more than ever with adventurous sommeliers and gourmets, as aperitif, after-dinner pleasure. And in between for the especially daring.

For all the caramelized sweetness of a 15-year-old Malmsey, fine Madeiras come in varying degrees of dryness. All have a strong core of racy acidity and a whiff of the sea that matches the savory aromas and f lavors of smoke and sa lt in contemporary favorites of sushi, caviar, foie gras, cured hams and artisan cheeses.

Madeira does not rush the palate with big ripe fruits. Instead aromas and f lavors are old and slow, rewarding the connoisseur with nuts, spices, vanilla, cocoa, coffee, raisin and other dried fruits.

The odd, hand-made nature should appea l to the cu r ious young drinkers, unhindered by old prejudices and unafraid of sugar (not that there’s anything wrong with that). What wine sounds as fresh and eco-friendly as Rainwater, the youngest and most elegant style of dry Madeira?

To Madeirans like young Christopher Blandy, who took over his family’s 200 year old lodge last year, Madeira should have new legs, pun intended. Accordingly, some new labels have a millennial slash of color; others are still stenciled by hand.

When Blandy visited B-21 in Tarpon Springs he winced at marketers’ promotion of New Era cocktails made with Madeira. Add an ice cube to Rainwater or dry Sercial if you must, Blandy said, but Madeira is fine by itself. He and his compatriots enjoy them in his home high above the harbor in sunny Madeira, which is hardly the old image of a drink by the fire in the old vicarage. Why not drink Madeira in Florida or California too?

Madeira is grown and fermented like any wine, fortified like port, and aged in soleras but still one of a kind. It’s the only wine in the world with no fear of heat and consequently so stout-hearted you can still buy a bottle from the days of Washington and Jefferson. Or open a bottle today, sip, stick the cork back in and drink again… indefinitely.

Madeira wines are born in heat and t ra ined as long and hard as deser t commandos. The first Portuguese settlers grew grapes on tall vines trellised up steep slopes in hot humid summers and sold their wines around the world.

The breakthrough came when a customer in India rejected a shipment more than

200 years ago. When the wine arrived back in Funchal the tasters found it had improved in its two trips across the equator. To duplicate the effect of a ship’s hold in tropical travels, they stored wines in lofts closer to the heat rather than cellars. Later, some added heating elements.

Four grapes are common. Driest are Sercial and Verdelho, which make classic aperitifs, pale gold and amber in color, with whiffs of a lmonds and dr ied zest of lemons and oranges. Sweeter and richer made from Boal/Bual and Malvasia, aka Malmsey, which

make creamy, buttery wines that range from raisins to dates, and are preferred with desserts, chocolate, and cheeses. Or

cigars.

Selecting and/or blending grapes are only the first step in the magic. Then comes the

aging and heating by which wines are graded. Young Rainwater is held only three years; most are aged 5, 10, or 15 years enriching steadily as they are slowly blended with old wines in the soleras.

The most special wines are grapes saved from a single harvest in exceptional vintages, such as Blandy’s 1994 Malmsey Colette, as Madeirans call wine held 5 to 18 years before release. The term “vintage” is reserved for wines held the longest, like the 1985 Malmsey or the 1968 Verdelho.

Madeira has been in and out of fashion for 400 years, which may be why it has such a long life. A pleasure forever, always ready for new appreciation.

BLANDY’S: Rainwater 87WS 14.99Supple and lush, with pear, apricot and baked apple flavors. Rich, buttery finish. 87WS

Alvada 500ml 19.995yr Bual 87WS 24.995yr Malmsey 24.995yr Sercial 91WE, 90WS 24.99Lively and rich, with a hazelnut nose and apricot, pear and almond flavors. Long, spice- and mineral-filled finish. Quite fresh-tasting. 90WS

5yr Verdelho 92WS 24.99 Rich and elegant, with layers of delicious dried apricot, pear and butterscotch flavors. Sweet, creamy notes fill the long, spicy finish. Excellent balance, structure and freshness. 92WS

10yr Malmsey 91WE 39.99Mildly syrupy in texture, this is an intensely sweet Madeira balanced by racy acidity. Rancio and brown sugar aromas lead the way, followed by flavors of caramelized nuts, molasses and burnt citrus peel. Excellent length on the finish, where the crisp acids really shine. 91WE

15yr Malmsey 500ml 92WS, 90W&S 39.99 Very sweet, along with a burnt quality to the molasses, caramel and walnut flavors, this is balanced and powerful, ending with a

long aftertaste of burnt caramel. Fine harmony and intensity. 92WS

1994 Colheita Malmsey 500ml 39.991985 Malmsey 149.991968 Bual 199.991968 Verdelho 199.99

10 YEAR OLDS:

Leacock 10yr Bual 90WS 39.99Miles 10yr Malmsey 90WS 39.99

RAINWATER:

Blandy’s 87WS 14.99Cossart 87WS 14.99Leacock 90WS 12.99Miles 15.99Sandeman 15.99Sandeman Fine Rich 15.991997 Barbeito Single Harvest 39.991988 d’Oliveira Terrantez 93WA 99.99 1983 d’Oliveira Bual 129.991908 d’Oliveira Bual 94WA 499.99

PRE-ORDER:

BARBEITO Bual 1982 119.99 Malvasia 1958 249.99 Sercial 1978 119.99D’OLIVEIRA Bual 1922 93WS, 93W&S 399.99 Bual 1958 279.99 Bual 1968 93WA, 92W&S 149.99 Bual 1977 94WA 129.99 Malvasia 1907 549.99 Malvasia 1987 119.99 Sercial 1937 93WS 279.99 Sercial 1969 149.99 Verdelho 1912 399.99 Verdelho 1973 129.99 Terrantez 1988 90W&S 99.99

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The arrival of Zinfandel in the United States came through the Imperial Nursery in Austria which likely obtained the vines during from vines in Croatia. George Gibbs, a horticulturist on Long Island, received shipments of grapes from there between 1820 and 1829. It is suggested that the “Black Zinfardel of Hungary” mentioned

by William Robert Prince in A Treatise on the Vine (1830) may have referred to one of Gibbs’ 1829 acquisitions. The name is probably a corruption of tzinifándli (czirifandli), a Hungarian word derived from the German Zierfandler, a white grape (Gruener Sylvaner) from Austria. Eastern nurseryman headed west for the California Gold Rush in the 1850s, and took zinfandel with them. Planting of zinfandel boomed soon after, and by the end of the 19th century was the most widespread variety in California. During the Prohibition years, many vines were ripped up, not only for obvious reasons, but because it was vulnerable to rot on the long journey to East Coast markets. By 1930, the wine industry had weakened due to the Great Depression and Prohibition and Zinfandel sank into obscurity as most was blended into undistinguished fortified wines. By the middle of the 20th century the origins of California Zinfandel had been forgotten.

In 1972, one British wine writer wrote,

SUMMER ZINS

wines came back into fashion. By 1980, curiosity peeked on the origins of Zinfandel again and comparisons to Primitivo in Italy and Plavic Mali in Croatia were identified. A Croatian named Mike Grgich was so convinced that zinfandel and Plavic Mali were the same clone that in 1991 Grgich and other producers came together as the

Zinfandel Advocates and Producers (ZAP) with the objectives of promoting the varietal and wine, and supporting scientific research on Zinfandel. By 1998 it was realized that Plavac Mali was not Zinfandel but rather that one was the parent of the other. Nevertheless, zinfandel had made its mark and Paul Draper of Ridge Vineyards, widely considered the pioneer of zinfandel, rescued the grape from obscurity and demonstrated its full potential as a serious wine.

“there is a fascinating Californian grape, the zinfandel, said to have come from Hungary, but apparently a cepage now unknown there.” It was then described as “a California original, grown nowhere else” and “California’s own red grape.” In 1975, Bob Trinchero of Sutter Home Winery used zinfandel to “accidentally” produce

a pink, sugary wine and named it White Zinfandel and it became immensely popular. Wine critics considered white Zinfandel to be insipid and uninteresting in the 1970s and 1980s, nevertheless, the success of this blush wine saved many old vine zinfandels in premium areas, which came into their own at the end of the 20th century as red Zinfandel

It’s that time of year for firing up the grill and celebrating All-American pastimes such as baseball, hot dogs and barbeque. A nd what better way than popping open a bottle of zinfandel, the true “American vine and wine.”

Page 9: B-21 Aug/Sept Buzz

RAVENSWOOD WINERY“As a group, the Ravenwood’s 2008 single-vineyard Zinfandels rank among winemaker Joel Peterson’s best efforts yet.” Connoisseurs’ Guide, May 2011

2008 Teldeschi (Dry Creek) 96CG 24.99Keenly focused on optimally ripe berries and showing the stunning concentration of classic old-vine Zinfandel, it is wonderfully well-balanced for the big wine that it is, and its layered flavors last and last. It will no doubt tempt drinking early, but it has a decade or more of

improvement ahead, and it should be cellared away for at least four or five years. 96CG 2008 Barricia (Sonoma) 93WE, 93CG 24.99 2008 Dickerson (Napa) 93CG, 92WE 29.99 2008 Belloni (Russian River) 92CG, 92ST 29.992008 Old Hill (Sonoma) 95WE, 93ST 39.99 2010 Artezin (Mendocino) 90WS 14.99 A zesty Zinfandel that’s loaded with spice, offering aromas of dark cherry and licorice that lead to lively plum, toasty sage and anise flavors. Finishes with ripe, briary tannins. Drink now through 2017. 90WS 2009 Carlisle (Dry Creek) 92ST 39.99 2009 Carlisle Papera Ranch (Russian River) 92-95WA 49.99 2009 Counterfeit (Sonoma) 90MS 19.99 2009 Decoy (Sonoma) 91WE $19.99 2007 Elyse Korte Ranch (Napa) 93WE $29.99 2007 Elyse Morisoli (Napa) 91CG $29.99 2009 Frei Brothers Reserve (Dry Creek) $12.99

2009 Joel Gott $14.99 2009 Joel Gott Dillian Ranch (Amador) $19.99 2005 Gia Domella (Russian River) 93RB, 90WE $24.99 A lush, full-bodied wine with intense notes of wild blackberries, raspberries and plums. Not only rich and intense this zin has a sappy concentration that only meticulously maintained old vines can produce. There is great length and this wine seems in perfect balance. It is very fruit oriented with little to no oak influence. The terroir shines through with clarity. This Zin will continue to blossom for 3 years and drink well for 10. Last tasted 4/11/2012. 93RB

2009 Kenwood ‘Jack London’ (Sonoma) 91WE $19.99 2009 Marietta (Sonoma) $17.99 2008 Martinelli Vellutini Ranch (Russian River) 92WA $59.99 2009 Plungerhead Old Vine (Lodi) 87WE $12.99 2009 Ravenswood Lodi 87CG $12.992009 Rodney Strong Knotty Vines (Sonoma) $13.99 2009 Sbragia Gino’s Vineyard 93WE, 92WS, 92WA $24.99A fantastic Zinfandel, Sbragia’s best in years, and one of the best of the vintage. Shows classic Dry Creek wild blueberry and briary blackberry flavors, with exotic spices, and the exuberance you want in a Zin. Yet it exhibits a rare control, making it elegant despite the power. Drink now for sheer joy. 93WE

RIDGE VINEYARDS “Heretical as it may sound, I think the wines Draper is making today will prove to be far superior to the wines of decades past, many of which are rightly considered legendary.” The Wine Advocate, August 20112009 East Bench (Dry Creek) 92WE, 92CG 24.992009 Ponzo (Russian River) 91WE 26.992009 Paso Robles 91WS 28.992009 Geyserville (Sonoma) 94WA 29.99 1.5 73.99 375ml 19.99A gorgeous wine. It shows expressive inner perfume, sweet black cherries, menthol and minerals. This is an understated, exceptionally elegant red endowed with considerable finesse and fabulous overall balance. A round, sensual finish makes it impossible to resist a second taste. 94WA

2008 Lytton Springs (Dry Creek) 93WA, 93ST 32.99 1.5 69.99 2009 Lytton Springs (Dry Creek) 96CG, 95WA 34.99 This winery’s mastery of Zinfandel is once again evident here, and, if showing the richness and depth that we anticipate from Lytton Springs bottlings, this wine is keenly composed and comes with a little more polish than usual. It is young, it is incisively fruity and it is well-filled, and it forgoes bombast and flashiness for

structured precision and great ageability. 96CG

SEGHESIO VINEYARDS“Kudos to the Seghesio family. Among the great Italian heritage families in Northern California (and there are many of those), Seghesio continues to set a high standard for quality and attractive value.” The Wine Advocate February 2011

2010 Seghesio (Sonoma) 93WE, 90WS 18.99You could use this as a teaching tool for classic Sonoma County Zinfandel. It’s full-bodied, dry and spicy, with briary flavors of wild berries, mocha, tobacco, leather and exotic spices. More importantly, it’s absolutely delicious. It’s an astonishing value! 93WE

2009 Seghesio Cortina 95WE 34.99 2009 Old Vine (Sonoma) 94WE, 92WS 34.99 Ripe but well-structured, with wild berry and licorice aromas and rich, layered flavors of plum and smoked pepper

that are balanced with a great backbone of acidity and tannins. Drink now through 2017. 92WS 2010 Seghesio Home Ranch (Alexander Valley) 34.992010 Seghesio Rockpile (Dry Creek) 34.992007 Seghesio San Lorenzo (Alexander Valley) 93WA, 92WS 49.99

2009 XYZin 50 Year Old Vines (Russian River) 87GV 24.99 2009 Wine Guerrilla (Sonoma) 89CG 12.99 It is full-bodied and sleek at one and the same time, as it is both vital and rich, and, while it is very good at the moment, it has the structure and depth to be better yet if allowed another three to five years of aging. 89CG

2008 Zabaco Heritage Vines (Sonoma) 88WA 11.99 ...is a big, bold Zin that truly over-delivers. Full-bodied with lots of berry fruit, spice, pepper, earth and herb characteristics, this is a Rhone Valley-like, gutsy, exuberant Zinfandel to enjoy over the next several years.

88WA

Page 10: B-21 Aug/Sept Buzz

CENTERFOLD: 2009 PENLEY ESTATE

PHOENIX CABERNET SAUVIGNON

Birthplace: Coonawarra, Limestone Coast, South Australia

Education: 15 months on oak

GPA: 91.3 (94 AWC, 90WA, 90WE)

Ancestors and Mentors: Douglas Austral Tolley, C.R. Penfold, Max Schubert

Values: Balance, good value, elegance, purity

Favorite things: Red dirt, margaritas, skiing, New York City, grilling, Fred Astaire,

rooting for the Adelaide Crows

Bright crimson; by some distance, the best of the ’09 Penley varietals, with redcurrant and blackcurrant fruit supported by quality cedary oak and fine tannins, the medium-bodied palate long and complete. - 94 points, James Halliday, Australian Wine Companion

$14.99AWC 94 Points Regular $15.99

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THE SUN SHINES BRIGHTLY ON THE WINE OF THE SOUTHERN RHONE OF 20102010 in the Southern Rhone, where it could almost certainly be called “the home of pleasure,” is a great vintage. The wines are big, ripe and full and show amazing fortitude as well, the acids being as substantial as the fruit concentration. Good news. The same great producers we have all come to await excitedly are even better this vintage it seems almost without fail. What major successes there are, from the Chateauneuf producers like Clos Saint Jean and Giraud – and hey, what a coup, we landed some of the renowned “Cuvee des Cadettes” of Chateau La Nerthe. And then the real success stories, where the wines under $20 land the big punches, like Pesquie ‘Terrasses’ (94 pts, $17) and Cercius rouge (93 pts, $14)…

PRE-ORDERCHATEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE

Clos Saint Jean, PRE-ORDER eta AugustVieilles Vignes $39.99 1.5L $89.99“dense purple color is followed by scents of lead pencil shavings, white chocolate, lavender, black currants and sweet cherries.” 90-92WA

Why are these guys smiling? Because they make Clos Saint Jean! Brothers Vincent and Pascal Maurel do it all.

Domaine Janasse, PRE-ORDER eta August Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge $49.99“black fruits, smoke, and earth, very good acidity and moderate tannin.” 91-93+WA

Cuvee Chaupin $79.99 “may turn out to eclipse my favorite Chaupin to date, the 2007” 98-100WA

Vieilles Vignes $89.99“phenomenally concentrated wine… notes of barbecue spices, blackberry and black currant fruit, smoked herbs, charcoal, incense and an intense lavender note.” 98-100WA

Domaine Giraud PRE-ORDER eta August Chateauneuf-du-Pape Tradition $39.99 “sweet aromas of blackberries, black raspberries, licorice, camphor and flowers” 92-94WA

Chateau de La Nerthe PRE-ORDER eta August 2010 Cuvee des Cadettes $89.99 1.5L $189.99 3L $379.99 “Notes of cassis, blackberries, camphor, graphite and licorice emerge from this full-bodied, pure, intense, super-layered” 95-97WA

COTES DU RHONE

Andezon $12.99“…even the cynics agree that the old-vine Syrah from the Gard has a special character to it. This wine comes from 40+-year-old Syrah vines and 60+-year-old Grenache vines…stunning nose of blackberry liqueur and jus de viande (beef/meat juices), its thrilling, intensely pure, full-bodied mouthfeel, good freshness, and striking floral character all combine for one of the very best bargains in dry red wine that readers are likely to find anywhere in the

world.” 91WA

Calendal (Plan de Dieu) $24.99 1.5L $49.99“The personal project of the visionary and genius oenologist Philippe Cambie… the wine has great intensity, full-bodied opulence, beautiful purity, texture and a multi-dimensional mouthfeel.” 94WA

Cercius rouge (Cotes du Rhone Village – Visan) $13.99C“85% Grenache and 15% Syrah comes from the 70- to 80-year-old Grenache… this sensational wine tastes more like Chateauneuf du Pape than just about any Cotes du Rhone one is likely to find.” 93WA

Auguste Clape (Cotes du Rhone—a ringer from the North!) $39.99 “100% Syrah grown just outside of Cornas, it boasts an inky/blue/purple color, medium to full body, and abundant notes of cassis, blackberries and camphor.” 90WA

Domaine Janasse, PRE-ORDER eta August Chateauneuf-du-Pape rouge $49.99“black fruits, smoke, and earth, very good acidity and moderate tannin.” 91-93+WA

La Colliere (Cotes du Rhone) $14.99 “this plot is across the street from the Rasteau flatland. Blackberry center, minerality and some smolder, no candied/jammy stuff but instead serious, big and balanced with good acid/tannin ratio. The best AOC CdR I have tasted...A banger!” 92RBV

Domaine des Fees (Cotes du Rhone) $12.99 “equal parts Grenache and Syrah, aged completely in concrete tanks, is stunning. Gorgeous notes of roasted meats, Provencal herbs, sweet black cherry liqueur,

and licorice as well as spice jump from the glass of this dense, ruby/purple-tinged wine.”

Domaine de la Garrigue ‘Cuvee Romaine’ (Cotes du Rhone) $15.99

Janasse Terre d’Argile (Cotes du Rhone Villages) $19.99 “abundant aromas of cassis, blackberries, black cherries, licorice and a hint of charcoal.” 92-94WA

Perrin Reserve (Cotes du Rhone) $9.99 88WA

Chateau Pesquie ‘Les Terrasses’ $16.99 “sweet blueberries, black cherry liqueur, licorice, incense, and a hint of hot rocks (almost gravelly, in the Bordeaux sense), but the wine hits the palate with amazing texture, succulence, fabulous fruit intensity, vivid purity and a vigorous, long, fresh finish that goes on past 30 seconds. 94WA

BLANC

Becassonne (Cotes du Rhone) $12.99 “Fresh as a mountain stream and floral as the mountainside, both in spring. from 50% Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and Clairette, the stone fruits pulse ripely and roundly with peach and apricot and nectarine qualities.” 92RAS

Cercius blanc (Costieres de Nimes) $13.99 “Vivid aromatics of sauvignon blanc tempered by lusher grenache blanc, floral, citrus. The is a lively white rhone with lots of snap. Another Gassier winner.” 91 RAS

Les Cailloux (Chateauneuf-du-Pape) $34.99 Very ripe (but not overly so) and showing some tropical tones and stone fruits too and an almost buttery character.” 92RB

Janasse (Chateauneuf-du-Pape) $49.99 “Rich but remarkably pure, with pear eau-de-vie, blanched almond, green plum and lilting honeysuckle notes all weaving through the stone-tinged finish. Creamy and precise.” 93WS

Pesquie V iognier ( V in de Pays Mediterranee) $12.99 ripe and clean (thanks to being unoaked), pure pop pleasurability showing pineapple, mango, orange and mineral flavors. Vivid. 89RB

This is a great vintage that comes close in quality to 2007 in the southern Rhône. Some producers think 2010 eclipses 2007 because of the wines’ vivid freshness and focus.- Robert Parker from The Wine Advocate (2011)

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SPIRITS

G I N N YON THE BLOCKIngredients: A dash of Bitter Truth lemon bitters, 2 oz. of Botanista Splash or two of Fever-Tree Club Soda2 botanical ice cube at the base of the glass 1 Basil twig to stir.

To prepare: Simply combine the bitters, gin, and ice in a strainer, place one botanical ice cube at base of martini glass, strain the cocktail into your glass, and stir/garnish with basil.

So, how do you make a botanical ice cube? I prefer a roughly chopped cucumber, basil and lemon zest but feel free to puree. Combine with one cup of simple syr-up (1/4 water 3/4 sugar). Freeze in silicone mold for cubes or a container with a wide surface area for shaving ice.

Beefeater 24 artisanal dry (England) 24.99Blue Coat (Pennsylvania) 26.99Bols Genever (Holland) 29.99 Boomsma Genever (Holland) 24.99The Botanist (Scotland) 34.99Corsair Barrel Aged (Kentucky) 39.99Death’s Door (Wisconsin) 29.99Fifty Pounds (England) 24.99G Vine Nouaison (France) 34.99Hayman’s Old Tom (England) 24.99

STUCK ON MY GINNY GIN GIN

Hendrick’s (Scotland) 29.99Magellan (France) 29.99Distillery No. 209 (California) 34.99Nolet’s (Holland) 44.99Old Raj Dry (England) 49.99Plymouth (England) 29.99Schlichte Dry (Germany) 23.99Tanqueray No. TEN (England) 24.99Whitley Neill (England) 24.99Zuidam Dry (Holland) 19.99

FUN FACT: Gin has many health benefits and is lower in calories than beer and wine!

$24.99Tanqueray No. TEN

(England)

Page 14: B-21 Aug/Sept Buzz

Starting here just three months ago, on my first day, I was told to sign up for B-21’s up-coming Cigar City tour, if I was interested. If I was interested?! WHERE IS THE LIST? We’re doing this on a school night?

Upon arrival at the brewery, we were all given a list of beers on tap to have in hand during the CCB Tour. Searching for a

dark beer, but one that would not cloud my thinking, I chose the José Martí Black Lager. For those of you who like dark beer but are

A TRIP TO CIGAR CITYThe Perfect Start for Summer’s Best Wheat, IPAs and Saison Beers

lamenting over the fact that summer’s con-ditions are not inviting for it, this is the an-swer. But my favorite beer exclusively on draft there? The Baltic Porter, Kalevipoeg—you never call me anymore.

At 15 barrels, the brew house for Cigar City sits (or rather, rushes around) at what Sound-brew.com suggests is the minimum a produc-tion brewery should be at. Starting with five staffers in January ‘09, the brewery now has 30 full-time employees. That really doesn’t seem like much and it’s truly staggering when one considers the quantity, variety and high qual-ity of beer that CCB constantly pushes out. The reputable RateBeer.com comes out with an annual top 50 beer list, where Cigar City

MOA Breakfast ABV: 5.5%, 4 pack $17.99After drinking this lager, laced with floral Nelson hops, wheat malt and cherries, I’ve unofficially deemed it, “The Make-Out Beer.”

Schneider Weisse ABV: 5.4%, 16.9 oz $3.99This is the original wheat beer or German hefeweizen (live yeast wheat beer): amber in color, unfiltered, unpasteurized, with top-fermenting yeast that settles at the bottom (sediment). Before you take one sip, you can smell oranges, sand, almonds and even coffee. And upon that first sip-- after its unparalleled crispness-- caramel & smoky malt flavors seat themselves beside you, beckoning a beach bonfire and maybe a couple of drummin’ hippies.

Schneider Edel-Weisse (Organic)ABV: 6.2%, 16.9 oz $3.99For a more interactive experience, check out TwoGuysonBeer on YouTube, as they explain that Schneider & Sons saved the Hefeweizen in the late 19th century (Episode 104 - Georg Schneider’s Wiesen Edel Weisse). Now, they also make a completely organic version of the original. Yielding itself lighter in color, cloudy (still unfiltered), smoother in flavor and single-noted on the first taste, it revealed a smoky bananarama with a long bitter finish on the second swig.

Dogfish Head Festina Peche ABV: 4.5%, 4 pack $9.99A pale straw yellow wheat beer infused with peach juice carries a syrupy consistency and mildly carbonated peach juice from concen-trate. Being light and incredibly sour on the middle palate, this is meant to be enjoyed while you tan yourself Snookie-orange by the poolside.

Smuttynose IPA ABV: 6.9%, 6 pack $9.99Grapefruity & delightfully bitter, this dry-hopped, unfiltered IPA starts with a soapy, light & consis-tent head, quickly revealing floating flakes of yeast, and following through with such attrac-tive rings of foam, an onlooker would likely eye it from across the room, awkwardly shuffle his feet on the barstool, and make his way towards it with a brilliant pick-up line like, “Baby, I think your glass needs filling.” <or> “Let me rinse that off for you.”

Coronado Islander IPA ABV: 7%, 750 mL - $4.99

Color: Golden amber, frothy, creamy headNose: BIG guava, golden raisins, honey, faint smoke Taste: Caramel malty

@#$%*#! euphoria. If you’re looking for a big, classic

Alas, the spontaneous break of cool weather in April was simply not enough to keep me gravitating towards stouts and porters, and it was time to scour the B-21 shelves for just 12 classic German Hefeweizens, American wheat beers & IPAs, and Saison to battle that sweaty-hot Florida weather we all look so forward to each year.

Let’s begin with the most important meal of the day:

PA, this is not what you should reach for; how-ever, if you’re looking for an IPA with abundant caramel malt on the front, leaving the hops as more of a pleasant afterthought (the kind of taste that you don’t mind passing out with), then this is IT. And it’s a shame that it’s not on draft some-where around here. I guess you’ll have to come buy as many fifths as you can wrap your arms around. Boomeranging back to Cigar City… Cigar City’s Criterium ABV: 5%, 750mL $6.99Cigar City’s Criterium is hopped up on hops. This is yeasty, but very hoppy w/ bitter curacao peel. Most samplers found this one to be the most enjoyable of the four I am listing here. I agreed until I tried Tropical Heatwave (ABV 5.2%, 750 mL, $6.99), which is more like a Tropical chameleon. Initially, it was calm and chucked full of nothing but reserved wheat. An hour later, it tasted like an IPA. Sneaky. Very, very sneaky.

Dos Costas Oeste Grapefruit &Dos Costas Oeste Lemon ABV: 9%, 750 mL $15.99These are the product of a collaboration with The Bruery (California). They’re each brewed with coriander and ginger, but they differ in the fruit’s wood spirals they’re fermented with. When I state that they’re both very potent, I am not saying that lightly. The lemon seeping through the oak-laced beer stands out more, but the grapefruit version is slightly lighter and more refreshing at a cooler temperature.

placed in 5 spots. How do they do it? The brew house never seems to close and their fer-menters are rarely empty. As 8 PM arrived, we watched workers labeling J’ai Alai bottles and bustling around the humble room.

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BIG WORLDSMALL BUDGET

South AmericaPicking great values from South America is easy as pie. We know our favorite winemak-ers & friends in Argentina and Chile can make exceptional stuff, particularly Malbec, Torrontés, Carmenere and Merlot. Of course you can spend a pretty penny in the Malbec madness but you don’t have to! Here is the best from South America at every price point.

2009 Calypso Malbec $19.99A glass-coating opaque purple color, it exhibits an inviting nose of wood smoke, pencil lead, spice box, leather, and black cherry. Dense, ripe, and savory, this concentrated, nicely proportioned Malbec will be at its best from 2013 to 2021. 90WA

2010 Familia Zuccardi Torrontés Serie A $12.99Pale yellow. Musky fruit aromas and flavors of orange, pear and peach perked up by a floral element. Then tactile and dry but juicy, with exotic inner-mouth perfume and noteworthy lift. Good broad, chewy torrontes with firm acidity and plenty of personality. 89ST

2010 Aruma Malbec $12.99Aromas of smoke and game follow through to notes of racy blackberry and black currant fruit, as light tannins frame the tangy finish. Distinct but tasty. 87WS

2010 Benmarco Malbec $14.99Lovely aromas of black cherry, spice box, tobacco, lavender, and earthy minerals inform the nose of a ripe, succulent, intensely flavored wine that offers outstanding value and is meant for drinking over the next 5-7 years. 90WA

2010 Catena Malbec $15.99A rich red, with ripe layers of linzer torte, plum pudding and fig paste flavors backed by layers of mesquite, olive paste and grilled herbs. Grippy tannins add weight to the long, vibrant finish. Drink now through 2013. 91WS

2009 Allegrini & Renacer Enamore $19.99...is composed of 60% Malbec, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, with the balance Cabernet Franc and Bonarda aged for 12 months in seasoned French oak. Made in an Amarone style with dried grapes, it is a full-bodied, layered, sweet, and densely packed offering that will deliver prime drinking from 2013 to 2021. 92WA

2011 Graffigna Centenario Pinot Grigio $7.99Light yellow in color with delicate greenish hues. Subtle floral aromas with notes of jasmine and hints of peaches and apricot. On the palate the wine is fresh and young, with delicate, yet surprising, fruit flavors and a refined finish. A delicious pairing white fish, seafood and Asian cuisine and a great summer aperitif. 88SS

2011 Colomé Torrontés $12.99Bright, pale yellow. Very pure, perfumed aromas of gin-ger, licorice, rose petal and brown spices. Concentrated, supple and ripe with impressive sappy intensity to the fla-vors of spices and fresh herbs. Builds nicely on the back half, finishing with lovely saline persistence and chewy grip. 90ST

2009 Colomé Malbec $19.99This 85% Malbec contains small amounts of Tannat, Cab-ernet Sauvignon, and Syrah in its blend. It is purple in color with a captivating nose of cedar, Asian spices, incense, violets, black licorice, espresso, and assorted back fruits. Racy style with uplifting acidity, it is a beautifully propor-tioned offering with exceptional elegance and length. Give it several more years of cellaring and drink this fantastic value from 2013 to 2024. 92WA

2011 Crios de Susana Balbo Torrontés $11.99The 2011 Torrontes offers up enticing aromas of peach, melon, floral, and tropical fruit. Medium-bodied, dry, sa-vory, and nicely proportioned, this lengthy effort will de-liver plenty of enjoyment over the next 1-2 years. 90WA

2010 Tikal Patriota $15.99The 2010 Patriota is a blend of 60% Malbec and 40% Bo-narda aged for 12 months in French and American oak. A glass-coating opaque purple color, it sports an entic-ing nose of Asian spices, incense, lavender, plum, and blueberry. In the glass it opens to reveal a ripe, plush, sa-vory wine with no hard edges. Drink this well-balanced, lengthy wine over the next 5-6 years. It is also an out-standing value. 91WA

2009 Graffigna Centenario Malbec $7.99Violet in color, aromas of ripe dark berries with a touch of black pepper and spice. On the palate, delicate ripe tannins and a finish with hints of cof-fee, vanilla and toast. You can’t get a better buy for 8 bucks! 89SS

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BUYER’S GUIDE 2009 Brancott Pinot Noir 90CS $7.99Whoever said you can’t find decent Pinot under $10 didn’t look in New Zealand. Brancott turns cool climate into ripe cherries and berries with a light dusting of spice and surprisingly rich texture for the price.

2010 Yalumba Unwooded Chardonnay 91CS $10.99No oak but pure shadetree cool. Peach, grapefruit and tropical flavors served up with round mouthfeel and bright acidity in the back ground. This is a screwtop Chardonnay to keep in the fridge for lazy days all summer long.

2010 Mollydooker The Boxer Shiraz 91WA, 90CS, 89WS $21.99 Wild and crazy Mollydoookers still dance like a butterfly and sting like a teddy bearhug. This is warm rich Shiraz, lots of blue/black fruit with a pile of Oz’s favorite flavors, like chocolate, coffee, licorice and a meaty touch of Vegemite. Shiraz with character and style.

2006 d’Arenberg Galvo Garage Cabernet 93AWC 92CS 90WA $24.99Master blender and tannin-tamer Chester Osborne plays a Bordeaux hand as deftly as his Rhonish mixes. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot deliver deep black fruit with spicy savory accents. Rich and ready to drink now or prove that fine Oz reds will last 15 years.

ITALY by Chris Sherman

2008 Le Rote Colli Senesi Chianti 92CS 91+RB $17.99This is a beautiful buy that shows Chianti has come a long way without going the Super Tuscan route. Elegant, smooth and full of classic sangiovese strawberries and flowers.

2009 Zonin Ripasso 91CS $17.99As good as Valpolicella can be short of a full Amarone. Deep and rich with plums, licorice and chocolate.Big flavors in slick, sleek texture. Bring on a risotto or squid ink pasta.

2010 Ca’ Bolani Pinot Grigio , 91CS, 90MS $11.99Take back all those nasty things you said about p.g. Nothing thin or sour here. This is from far, cold Friuli where the fruit is more concentrated and aromatic than most. This is lush with melons and light spices backed with crisp minerals and lemon. Mark says “ The most complete pinot grigio I’ve tasted in years!” Agreed.

GERMANY by Zach Groseclose

2007 Johannishof Riesling Kabinett G, Rheingau ($19.99) From Riesling’s ancestral home, the Rheingau. Strong citrus, pear, & stone fruit notes underpinned by a lively mineral-acid backbone. This true Kabinett is only now starting to come together! 90 WS.

2007 Joh Jos Prum Riesling KabinettWehlener Sonnenuhr, Mosel ($39.99)An age-worthy white for less than $40? Yes, please! Incredible apple, floral, wet stone aromas on a taut, middle weight frame. 91 WA.

2010 Clean Slate Riesling, Mosel ($7.99) Don’t let the price fool you, this wine is the perfect sum-mertime quaffer. Tart, effervescent peachy notes co-mingle with a refreshing acidity and the barest hint of sweetness.

2010 P. J. Valckenberg Dornfelder, Rheinhessen ($9.99)This German red has cherry and floral notes with medium body. Smooth tannins round out this bright, chillable red and make it perfect for bbq.

N.V. Dr. Loosen Sparkling Riesling Sekt, Mosel-Saar-Ruwer ($13.99) 100% Riesling — the crisp, fruity grape that has made German wine famous for centuries. It is made using the Charmat method (think Prosecco) and produces bright, clean sparkling wines. Refreshing and perfect as an every day sipper or in brunch cocktails like Mimosas and Bellinis.

DOWN UNDER: AUSTRALIA by Chris Sherman

2010 Morse Code Shiraz 90CS $9.99 The folks at Henry’s Drive keep delivering good news, full, juicy and smooth Shiraz from the Limestone Coast. will make you want to fire up the barbie every night of the week.

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2011 Villa Pozzi Nero d’Avola 89CS $7.99 A big, exciting gulp of Sicily. Jammy, with aromas and flavors of grilled herb and cured meat on top of plums and berries. Who needs espresso?

FRANCE by Rhett Beiletti

2009 Ronan (Bordeaux Superieur) $14.99 Appellation says it all, superior wine, Ronan. Named after Ronan Laborde, managing director of Chateau Clinet, a dashing young man around town in Bordeaux. This wine will become a name as well, it is already popping up on Parisian restaurant lists and has been a wine of the month in GQ magazine. 100% merlot, and you think an upper tier Pomerol producer might know a thing about merlot… very balanced, deep center and nice roasted coffee inside with dry, tactile palate and supple texture, refined and quintes-sentially Bordeaux in style, textbook. 91RB

2005 Mas Belles Eaux (Languedoc) $19.99/$17.99 btc“…refined, elegant red from the south of France has an en-ticing aroma of pepper and sage, with flavors of raspberry, kirsch, red cherry and hints of garrigue.” 91WS – very well stated, a very suave and pleasurable wine, drinking beauti-fully now RB

2008 Chateau Reignac $24.99 - Sale $19.99 of Yves Vatelot, multiple patent holder who has placed this Chateau at the vanguard of value. Shows a bit more tannin that Ronan above and more new oak “singe” and highest acids typical of the 08. 91RB

2010 Cercius blanc (Costieres de Nimes) $13.99 about 2/3 grenache blanc and 1/3 sauvignon blanc -- Vivid aromatics of sauvignon blanc tempored by lusher grenache blanc, floral, citrus. The is a lively white rhone with lots of snap. Another Gassier winner. 91 RAS

2005 Chateau Cassagne Haut-Canon (Canon-Fronsac) $24.99 Excuse me for showing my true colors but we do have some incredible values in Bordeaux at B-21, so here is another. From one of the highest points in Fronsac called Canon-Fronsac, CHC shows the depth and firmness you expect from traditionally styled Bordeaux wines. Not a flavor out of place, seamlessly constructed with blackberry, bay spice and earth tones, shows great breeding. 92RB

SPAIN by Rhett Beiletti

2010 Casa Castillo (Jumilla) $11.99“complex on the nose, refined and polished. More at serious pinot noir than monastrell. A remarkably complex finish that just isn’t found in $12 wine from anywhere. Critics loved the 2009, this is in another league.” 92RAS

2007 Las Gravas (Jumilla) $19.99“A regal wine with a French solidity. Quite pure and re-strained for Jumilla, there is a touch of that lead pencil and blue-black fruits and earth. Full-bodied with great delinea-tion and a limestone drive and a very long finish.” 93RB

2009 Louro do Bolo (northwest Spain) $17.99 Godello in its most internationally and broadly appealing form, for the Chardonnay, White Burgundy or Chateauneuf blanc drinker alike. The nexus. Fresh stone fruits, pear, apple, mineral and volume from large barrels come together here. 91RB

2009 Avaniel (Ribera del Duero) $10.99 Remarkably suave and sophisticated tempranillo. It is clear that luxury juice is finding its way into this value cuvee from the Monteabellon, the winery flagship and name. Ribero del Duero enjoyed alone with Rioja a great 2010, so enjoy this fantasy value. Serious wine. 90 points RAS

2010 Tres Picos (Borsao) $13.49 “Finishes with powerful spicy thrust and suggestions of candied flowers and woodsmoke. This could pass for a northern Rhone wine, a really good one at that. 91ST

Key: WS = Wine Spectator WA = The Wine Advocate ST = Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar W&S = Wine & Spirits WE = Wine Enthusiast CG = Connoisseurs’ Guide RAS = Robert A. Sprentall MS = Mark Stitt RB = Rhett Beiletti SS = Shannon Sprentall ZG = Zach Groseclose CF = Crystal Farina

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There is no better place or way to celebrate Bastille Day than with Beaujolais. By which I mean the people as well as their wines, from the top cru to the simplest village wines. I’ll skip the nouveau, which is old news by now and the least of the region’s bounty.

Sad to say that Marcel LaPierre, the man who bragged that his Raisins Gaulois was wine to drink while taking a shower is no longer with us. 1. His son, Matthieu, continued Marcel’s transformation of Beaujolais into natural wine making and the sunny good nature of his fellow vignerons survive.

In 2009 they were at their best in decades, an extraordinary vintage, and from the 2010s we tasted, the best winemakers are holding to a high standard there too.

As soon as I left Burgundy and entered the lands of gamay, I relaxed and downshifted my taste buds from Scrutinize to Enjoy. Love to be back here on July 14, when roasting pigs, rock bands and endless parties celebrate Bastille Day. The perfect wine for barbecues of any nationality.

This is sensuous, good- time wine country and yet as serious about gamay as the Burgundians are about pinot noir. The land is hil lier, nearly mountainous and the terroir as varied and almost as precise as the Cote d’Or. The climate here, south of the Burgundy’s Macon is sunnier and warmer and the vineyard sites are rich in the right kind of rocks too, schist and granite with underlying limestone and clay.

The wine making is primal too with whole

clusters going through carbonic maceration. There’s less acid and if that means most of the wine s won’t last 20 years, all the more reason to open today. The best however, command higher prices and promise long life as vin de garde.

Here the grape is gamay but a dozen AOCs ref lect it in as many ways. Beyond the broadest appellation of Beaujolais, the next level of quality are the wines of 30 some villages in the north which can be labeled Beaujolais- Villages.

The finest Beaujolais are from the ten crus strung along the hills east of the Massif Central, which are named either for a village or a local landmark like an old windmill (Moulin-A-Vent). Each has a different exposure, tradition and mix of soils but they fall into three can general categories. The lightest and brightest wines are found in Regnie, Chiroubles and Brouilly.

The wines of Cote de Brouily, Fleuries and Sant-Amour are earthier and of more substance and ageability.

The biggest and most longlasting come from Chenas, Julienas, Morgon (and its Cote de Py) and Moulin-A-Vent.

Well made, they can be cellared for years, and are hardly nouveaux.

2010 Charly Thevenet, “Grain & Granit,” Regnie 93RAS $26.99 Régnié is a terroir enjoying something of its own renaissance in the hands of talented growers like Charly and his dad’s pal, Guy Breton. In fact, Regnié has joined the short list of Grand Crus in the Beaujolais. Situated on a plateau of seabed stone in the foothills of the Côte du Py, it gives a fresh wine with solid acidity.

2010 Chateau Thivin Cote de Brouilly 87WA $23.992010 Guy Breton, Morgon $29.992010 Guy Breton, Regnie 87+ WA $29.992010 Bernard Diochon Moulin- A-Vent Vielles Vignes 90WA $21.99A big, solidly constructed Moulin-a-Vent, this 2010 exhibits a dense ruby/purple color, good fruit on the attack, and a textured, medium to full-bodied style bursting with berry fruit, spring flower, earth and spice characteristics. Displaying an opulent style as well as good acidity, it should drink well for 5-6 years – at a minimum. 90WA

2010 Jean Foillard, MorgonCote du Py $34.99 2010 Jean Paul Thevenet, Morgon Vielles Vignes 90+ WA, 88WS $29.99Prominently displays exuberant, tart, seedy red raspberry, and sour cherry with its pit. Roasted nuttiness and marrow-rich beef stock-like carnal elements well-up on the otherwise lively and juicy as well as polished palate, and a streak of salinity helps serve for a mouthwatering not to

mention bright and piquant finish.

2010 Michel Chignard Fleurie “Les Moriers” 92RAS 89+WA $21.99 Fresh, tar t blackberry and bi t ter-edged huckleberry cavor t with lemon zest, oregano, black tea, and black pepper for an invigorating, lean, finely-tannic palate impression, culminating in a brightly-penetrating finish underlain by a suggestion of crushed

stone. Expect this to ultimately reward 3-4 years of attention 2010 Marcel LaPierre Raisins Gaulois Vin de France 88RAS, 88WA $11.99 2009 Henry Fessy Moulin-A-Vent 92RAS, 90+RB, 90WS, 90W+S, 88WA $12.99Dark and spicy, flatter affect and bigger...Tannic as is the way with young MAV from a great vintage such as this. Structured and made to cellar. I suspect this will improve with age score-wise and even more so with

food. 2009 Henry Fessy Brouilly 93RAS, 93RB, 88WE $12.99 FEATURE Henry Fessy St. Amour WE DON’T HAVE IN MOM FEATURE Henry Fessy Morgon 92RAS, 92RB, 91WE, 89WS, 87WA, $12.99 SOLD OUT 2009 Georges DuBoeuf, Flower Label Moulin-A-Vent 90WS, 88WA $12.99 2009 Bernard Diochon, Moulin-A-Vent , Viellles Vignes 91ST, 89-90WA $19.99 2009 Cedric Vincent , Pouilly Le Monial, Vielles Vignes 89WA, 88ST $16.99 2009 Ch. Viornery , Cote de Brouilly 88WA $14.99

BEAUJOLAISTHE BOUNTIFUL By Chris Sherman

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NEW LANDINGSfrom the S.S. Kermit Lynch

2010 Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil “Senechal” $34.99The Bretons were early leaders in natural and now biodynamic farming in the center of the Loire Valley, producing an exceptional cabernet franc that delivers smoke and spice along with the red fruit.

2009 Leon Barral Faugeres 94RAS $29.99Didier Barral ‘s wines are as earthy and primal as his biodynamic farming , using native yeast, old presses, traditional farm animals and insects in an aggressive experiment in sustainability. The basic blend is Grenache, Carignane and Cinsault. Not at all rustic; ripe, stony taste and vivacious texture is elegant and in demand by the most chic.

2009 Leon Barral Faugeres “Jadis” 95RAS $39.99This cuvee adds Syrah to Carignane and Grenache, all grown on schist and is aged two years. Bright, rich, sweet and smoky. A fabulous wine for the money.

2009 Leon Barral Faugeres “Valiniere” 96RAS $69.99Barral’s meatiest wine, primarily Mourvedre and among the best of the varietal in France. Big with big fruit, minerals and spice, very rich drinking yet well-balanced. A rare wine. Worth hunting your own boar.

B-21’s tour through the France of Kermit Lynch turned up so many great finds we’re still unloading fresh shipments. The newest wines were

a diverse lot, half dozen of our favorites that showcased the dynamic diversity of French winemaking today. Receiving them was almost like

being on the road again, touring the lusty Rabelaisian Cabernet Francs of Bourgueil, delightful village Burgundies, ripe Rhones high in the

hills of St. Joseph, a delightful Tavel rose and the earthiest wines of a biodynamic champion in the Languedoc.

2010 Philippe Faury St. Joseph Blanc 94RAS $26.99Now run by Philippe’s son Lionel, Faury is a true artisan grower, with vineyards perched high in Saint Joseph and spread through the most famous names in the northern Rhone from Condrieu to Cote Rotie the white St. Joseph is 60/40 Marsanne/Roussanne with a nose of white peaches and honey, round in the mouth with a pleasant finish.

2010 Philippe Faury St. Joseph Rouge 90RAS $29.99The red is all Syrah, bright and deep, which opens with black berries and dark fruits, then grows spicier, all in easy-going texture with fine tannins.

2010 Gachot-Monot Cotes-de-Nuits Villages 91 RAS $26.99 People who know their way around the lesser-known appellation of Cotes de Nuits Villages have found the village of Corgoloin the best in the district. And Damien Gachot is one of the best, recommended by Aubert de Villaine, and Gachot treats his vines as if they were top cru.

2010 Trinquevedel Tavel ‘Cuvee Eugene’ Rose 92 RAS $19.99Guillaume Demoulin is the fourth generation of his family to farm the beautiful vineyards of Château de Trinquevedel. His great-grandfather, Eugène, bought the eighteenth-century château in 1936—the same year Tavel became an A.O.C , and the only one in France to be all rose.

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43380 U.S. 19 NP.O. Box 849Tarpon Springs, FL 34688-0849

888-B21-WINE (221-9463)727-937-5049blog.b-21.com facebook.com/b21winetwitter.com/b21wine

AMERICAN BEAUTIES:Come taste the U.S. best wines Aug. 12!B-21’s Sunday grand tastings are famous for the high level of wines we pour and the experience you get, plus the terrific one-day only prices. Now’s your chance to taste, talk and take home the top wines made in America. The quality and diversity of our domestic vineyards is astonishing, arneis to zinfandel, transplanted and home-grown, wines for the connoisseur and wines for the people. Wine got its start and fame across the pond, but the Vikings didn’t call this place Vinland for nothing. Add Spanish monks, Thomas Jefferson and California immigrants and today U.S. wines are world renowned. Here at B-21 we’ve got many specialties, yet the biggest is home grown: we have more than 1,000 U.S. wines, from everyday drinking to $100 collectibles and cult bottlings. We’ll pull out somewhere around 100 of the best. Come taste America’s red, white and sparkling with us. We’ll open sought-after Napa cabs, Sonoma chardonnays and Rhone rangers, and the rest of California. Top pinot noir from Oregon and the other “American Burgundies,” plus superb reds coming from Washington State. The wine quality on offer is unlimited, but space isn’t, so reserve now.

2012 TASTING CALENDAR...SAVE THE DATE!August 12: U.S. Tasting October 14: Bordeaux Tasting September 23: Burgundy Tasting November 18: Grand Holiday Tasting

Sunday, August 12, 2 - 5 PM. $25.00 per person.Reserve online at B-21.com

1PM Seminar: The Fabled 2007 Vintage in Napa Valley’s Stagecoach Vineyard Stagecoach Vineyard Pioneer Krupp Brothers shows the impact of a perfect vintage. Presented by Sandy Huffine, Krupp Brothers National Sales Manager 2PM Seminar: Mountain Mystery — Mount Eden Estate Taste the estate wines of Mount Eden and learn about the soils of the sites that are the basis of these legendary wines. Presented by Steve Sink, Fine Wine Director, Opici Wine Co 3PM Seminar: The Luxury of Lewis Cellars Master Sommelier Brian Koziol of Stacole Fine Wines handles the curves of former race car driver Randy Lewis’ wines. Presented by Brian Koziol, Master Sommelier, Stacole Fine Wines