bali savvy (edition one)

BaliSavvyThe Official American Express® Guide to the Island

BaliSavvy

the Best of

Bali

the Best of

Bali

The Kunja Villas and spa

Jl Lebak Sari No 8 Kerobokan Bali I T 62 361 733 130 I F 62 361 733 128 I [email protected] I www.thekunja.com

The Kunja Villas & Spa is located in Bali’s upscale Seminyak area just a few minutes stroll from one of the island’s most

famous stretches of golden sand beaches and numerous fine dining restaurants and shopping boutiques.

The Kunja features 18 fully serviced villas; secluded from the outside world and offers friends, couples and

families the comforts of home with all the luxurious amenities and services of a five star hotel.

10183 Bali Savvy Ad 01.indd 1 9/3/10 9:55 AM

BALI’S BEST DEALS FOR AMERICAN EXPRESS® CARDMEMBERS

FOR MORE GREAT DEALS, SEE AMERICAN EXPRESS SELECTSSM OFFERS ON P.108

Kayumanis nusa Dua Private villa & sPa

A secluded enclave of luxuriously appointed pavilions.30% savings on published rates• 25% savings on total bill (except alcohol) at Piasan• 25% savings on all spa treatments•

T. +62 361 770 777 | E. [email protected]

PanDaWas villas, Gianyar Luxurious and private residences on extensive property.

20% savings on published rates for 3 nights stay• 30% savings on published rates for 5 nights stay• 40% savings on published rates for 10 nights stay •


Hotel tuGu Bali, Canggu Romantic boutique hotel by the beach.

20% savings on published rates• 20% savings on total food bill at Bale sutra• 10% savings on total food bill at Tugu dining• 10% savings on treatments at Waroeng djamoe spa •


rama CanDiDasa resort & sPa Beachside resort in East Bali.

40% savings on published rates incl. 15 minutes wel-• come massage and entitlement to join resort activities15% savings on total food bill at garpu Restaurant•

T. +62 363 41974 | E. [email protected]

Enjoy Island-Wide Travel, Leisure, Dining & Shopping Offers with American Express®.

EssEntial islanD inFO

TOURIST INFORMATION

Bali Tourism BoardJl. Raya Puputan 41, Renon, Denpasart: +62 361 235600

Bali Government Tourist OfficeJl. s. Parman, niti Mandala – Renon, DenpasarPhone: +62 361 222 387www.dipardabali.com

TRANSPORT

Bali Car Rentals Jl. tunjung sari Permai 20, Denpasar (24-hour )t: +62 811 380699, +62 361 418 381 www.balicarrentals.com

TRAC Astra Rent A Car Jl. By Pass ngurah Rai, Jimbaran t: +62 361 703 333Jl. ngurah Rai international airport, intl. arrivals.t: +62 361 75 3744

Airport Taxit: +62 361 751 011 ext. 1611

Bali Taxi Phone: +62 361 701 111

MONEY

American ExpressPt. Bank Danamon indonesiaJl. legian 87, Kutat: +62 361 757 510

EMERGENCY SERVICES

Police: 110Fire Department: 113Ambulance: 118Search & Rescue:111/115/151

Bali International Medical Center (BIMC) (24-hour)Jl. Bypass ngurah Rai 100Xt: +62 361 761263www.bimcbali.com

International SOSJl.Bypass ngurah Rai 505X t: +62 361 710505www.sos-bali.com

Ubud Clinic (24 Hours) Jl. Raya Campuhan 36t: +62 361 974911

Bali 911 Dental Clinic Jl. Pattimura no. 9, Denpasart: +62 361 249749

POSTAL SERVICES

Central Post Office Jl. Raya Puputan, Renont: +62 361 223566

Kuta Post Office Jl. Raya Kuta, Gg. selamat. t: +62 361 754012

Fedex Bali Jl By Pas ngurah Rai 72, Kuta t: +62 361 701727

DHLJl. legian 451, Kutat: +62 361 762138

NEWSPAPERS

Bali PostBali’s leading newspaper written in Bahasa indonesiawww.balipost.com

Bali TimesBali’s weekly English-language newspaper.www.thebalitimes.com

MAGAZINES/WEBSITES

The Bud Magazine The Yak Magazinestylish guides to Ubud and seminyak (www.theyakmag.com).

Hello Bali Magazinea lighthearted monthly look at island life (www.hellobalimagazine.com).

FRV MagazineBi-monthly focusing on restaurants and accommodation in Bali and the region (www.finerestaurantsandvillas.com).

The Beat Magazine Balian entertainment & gig guide for the island (www.beatmag.com).

Bali Style MagazineHome living and decor magazine (www.balistylemag.com).

Bali Discoverynews, practical tips, and special offers:www.balidiscovery.com

6 | BaliSavvy

TA K I N G L U X U R Y T O A N E W L E V E LThe Royal Collection is a unique brand of villa living, featuring three world-class properties: The Kayana, The Samaya Seminyak and The Samaya Ubud.

Set within beautiful tropical gardens on Seminyak Beach and the Ayung

River, each property combines a unique ambience with a luxurious touch in products and service.

With a private plunge pool, spa and full butler service, these private boutique villas offer a secluded sanctuary for our most discerning guests.

The Samaya | Ubud – Bali T. + 62 361 973 606 .F + 62 361 973 610

E. [email protected] www.thesamayabali.com

The Kayana | Seminyak – BaliT. + 62 361 847 6628 .F + 62 361 847 6633

E. [email protected] www.thekayana.com

Reservation Centre: Jl. Melawai VII No. 6-8. Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta SelatanT. +62 21 270 0027.F. +62 21 270 0350 . E. [email protected]

The Samaya | Seminyak – BaliT. + 62 361 731 149. F + 62 361 731 203.

E. [email protected] www.thesamayabali.com

FRom ThE PuBLishER

dear valued American Express® cardmembers,

continuing our longtime commitment to promoting Bali as

one of the World’s Best islands*, we are delighted to pres-

ent Bali savvy, the official American Express guide to Bali.

This bimonthly guidebook will pave the way for more infor-

mation about enticing attractions and exciting activities at

Bali’s main tourist destinations. As a complete guidebook, it

undoubtedly has the potential to assist the government in

promoting Bali as a major tourist destination for both do-

mestic and international travelers.

it also guides you to many fine hotels, restaurants, retail out-

lets, and spas that willingly accept your American Express

card. in this edition, we have also handpicked an array of at-

tractive savings and privileges that are available across the

island through the American Express selectssm program. so,

indulge yourself with the card whilst you are in Bali and you

will find memories that are crafted every day!

sincerely,

PT Bank danamon indonesia, Tbk.

*Voted one of The World’ Best islands 2010 by Travel + Leisure magazine.

PT Bank danamon indonesia, Tbk. (“danamon”) is a leading private bank in indonesia and, effective september 1, 2006, has

become the sole issuer and acquirer of the American Express cards in indonesia under an independent operator agreement.

KaBar meDiaPT sentra Aktifitas Jakarta Jl. kemang selatan Viii, 67k Jakarta 12730, indonesia

editorJan [email protected]

Contributors:Pratiwi sasotyaJeane seahsarah dougherty

advertising & Promotions:scorpio Arie [email protected]

Custom Projects:Avi [email protected]. +6281908285032

Welcome to the first edition of

Bali savvy, the official Ameri-

can Express guide to one of the

world’s favorite islands.

Every two months, we aim to

bring you fresh information, im-

ages, and ideas to inspire you

for your next visit, in a compact

guide that will be a trusted Bali

travel companion on every trip.

We look forward to hearing

about your experiences, wheth-

er as business or leisure travel-

ers, as well as your thoughts on

stories you’d like to see within

Bali savvy throughout 2011, and

the best deals that you’ve en-

joyed while on the road.

so do drop us a line, and in the

meantime, enjoy Bali!

kabarmedia

FRom ThE EdiToRs

cover image: Alila Villas uluwatu

contents

+

<Bali FaVORitEs>Bali brands to

watch, from resorts and restaurants to

fashion and jewelry (p.14)

<Bali insiDERsusi Johnston:‘My Bali’ p.90

DininG>a selection of tasty

morsels from the island’s thriving culinary scene

p.102

saVVY GUiDEslistings by area, from

accommodation and activities to food and drink

(p.35)

this edition’s american Express selectssM Offers (p.108)

iMaGEs (ClOCKWisE FROM tOP lEFt) COURtEsY OF: alila Villas UlUWatU, aManDaRi, MEtis, niKKO REsORt, sUsi JOHnstOn.

Bali Savvy Edition 1, 2011

BaliSavvyintRODUCinG

The New BimoNThly AmericAN express® Guide

• Island News & Agenda

• Savvy Listings

• Best of Bali

• Bali Savvy People

• Bali for Business

• Art & Culture

• Island Explorer

• Cardmember Deals

your savvy companion on every Bali visit*

*Free to american Express® Cardmembers.

For more information, email [email protected] For the latest Bali savvy Updates visit www.balisavvy.com and join our mailing list.

Contact us by e-mail: [email protected]

©E

len

a R

om

án

14 | BaliSavvy

a secluded stretch of beach at the amankila resort in Manggis, East Bali.

BaliSavvy | 15

Bali has been an island of inspiration

for designers, hoteliers, entrepreneurs,

restaurateurs, and a multitude of others

who come here to release their creative

energies. Here we take a look at some of

the best brands that have thrived on the

island over the past few decades.

9 BaliFavorites

16 | BaliSavvy

Mark Edleson, president of alila Hotels and Re-sorts, is used to being at the cutting edge: he was there at the inception of amandari, Mandara spa (another hugely suc-cessful Bali-born brand, with 70 spas in 17 coun-tries), and he brought the GHM hotel management

brand to indonesia with the then-groundbreaking Chedi Club in Bandung -- all projects that proved to be ahead of the hospi-tality curve.

Key to the alila brand is a genuine dedi-cation to sustainability. Hailed as a pioneer of e n v i r o n m e n t a l l y - c o n -

scious practices, Mark is remarkably pragmatic. “Most of our hotels are resorts, and we con-sciously try to put our resorts in places of either cultural interest of natural beauty. so it behoves us to do what we can to sus-tain those physical and social environments.”

ALILAthe new Bali Style

AG

EN

DA

CIRE restaurant at Alila Vil-las Uluwatu epitomizes the bold design aesthetic of the property: walls are decorat-ed with 2,500 antique batik stamps, while cleverly placed screens and art pieces lend a feeling of privacy to each dis-crete dining area.

ALILAthe new Bali Style

18 | BaliSavvy

Aug | sEPT | ocT 2010

BaliSavvy | 19

alila Villas Uluwatu is the first resort in Bali designed to achieve Green Globe certifica-tion, the highest level of environmentally sustain-able design. stunningly beautiful, it combines elements of traditional Bali with a very modern aesthetic and displays a sensitivity that should serve as a model for new developments on the island.

www.alilahotels.com/uluwatu

20 | BaliSavvyBali savvy >> 20

sAnuR

BE

ST

OF

BA

LI

KU DE TAplace to be

BaliSavvy | 21

the icon of seminyak’s social scene has just celebrated its tenth birthday, and boy is it aging well...

KU DE TAplace to be

22 | BaliSavvy

“It’s never looked better,”

says Arthur (‘Arturo’)

Chondros, founder and

force behind KU DE TA.

“We keep fine-tuning and

trying to offer a better expe-

rience year on year.”

The experience is composed

of many elements, prepared

with an attention to detail

that strives to get things

just right, while looking

effortless – it’s about the

food, the drinks, the music,

the legendary parties, but

above all it’s about an at-

mosphere that embraces no

matter what the time or the

mood. Perhaps Arturo de-

scribes it best: “You can sit

here in 25 different places

and get a different feeling

at a different time of day –

you can come in at 8 o’clock

in the morning or you can

come in at 3 o’clock in the

morning. You can have 5

bucks in your pocket or

5,000 bucks in your pocket.

You can come and be a voy-

eur and sit around at sunset

and have a beer at the bar

and sit there for four hours

and watch the procession go

by. It’s entertainment, more

than anything else. And

it stimulates your senses,

your eyes, your ears...it’s

not a restaurant, I don’t see

it as a restaurant – it’s more

than that.”

www.kudeta.net

arturo Chondros, founder of KU DE ta.

Ku De Ta

BaliSavvy | 23

24 | BaliSavvy

AMANa redefinition of luxury

“You can’t copy an Aman. People try that, and they all fail,” travel titan Lyn Middlehurst told the WSJ in 2009: legions of loyal ‘Amanjunkies’ would attest to that. Founded by Indonesian Adrian Zecha, Amanresorts is a true rarity – an iconic hotel group

that is internationally both ac-claimed and mimicked. It started in Thailand, but it is arguably its Indonesian properties that have made the name of the group, in-cluding three on Bali. According to Ubudian Odeck Wiriawan, the Peter Muller-designed Amandari

BaliSavvy | 25

the spectacular setting of the Ed tuttle-designed amankila, East Bali. www.amanresorts.com

AMANa redefinition of luxury

started a new trend of its own with a style embraced by the Balinese in building their own homes and guest accommodation: ‘Aman kecil’. Muller’s sensitivity to the surroundings of the Amandari is an architectural sensibility that is reflected in all Aman properties;

whether a nature reserve deep in the heart of an Indian forest or at a high altitude next to a fortress in Bhutan, guests enjoy an ineffable sense of place. Each Bali property offers a distinctive experience ac-cording to its location; each is un-mistakably Aman.

26 | BaliSavvyBali savvy >> 26

THE OBEROI SEMINYAKoriginal and best

It now gives its name to perhaps the most fashionable street in Bali, but when The Oberoi was created, there was nothing else there. The first resort to be designed by Peter Muller, the property is modeled af-ter a Balinese village – albeit an in-credibly luxurious sort of hamlet.

One of Bali’s longest-serving GMs, Kamal Kaul came here in 1978, just months after the prop-erty opened. He still remembers the first time he saw The Oberoi “very vividly. I landed here in the

evening at about 5pm. We are on the west coast and we get the most amazing sunsets here. So it was just that time and I still remember this color of the sky and the color reflecting off these rough lime-stone walls and it had that glow and that amazing mystical feel...it felt very mysterious!”

He “had an inkling” that Bali would become a major part of his life, and so it was. Together with Muller, he transformed the prop-erty building by building from a

BaliSavvy | 27

the Oberoi seminyak: poolside at sunset.

www.oberoihotels.com

THE OBEROI SEMINYAKoriginal and best

simple club concept to an elegant and luxurious resort that was the first of its kind on Bali. “Peter is a wonderful human being to start with and I think that’s what makes great architects or artists. He is sensitive, he’s very genuine, and that reflects in his work. He’s hon-est to the sites, to the people, to the buildings he’s creating. The build-ings are humble. He’s not over the top, as understated as possible. The scale is a very human scale. Everything is single storey and it’s

following the contour of the land... it is snug against the coastline as the rice fields were so he was just following the contours of the land.”

“It is one of those hotels that people come to for a lot of emo-tional attachments, these kinds of resorts where they feel I have come home to my villa. It is a prop-erty that people feel if they haven’t come here for some time on vaca-tion there is something missing in their lives: it’s that strong.”

28 | BaliSavvy

Jenggala Keramik began in 1976 as an experimental cottage industry in Batu Jimbar, sanur, with the collabo-ration of three creative minds: new Zealand designer-potter Brent Hes-selyn, legendary indonesian hotelier Wija Waworuntu and his daughter ade. Over the past three decades the character of Jenggala’s three founding members has been enriched by indi-viduals equally passionate about the quality and creativity of hand-crafted

and well thought-out designs: various international and local artists have con-tributed to Jenggala’s development.

inspired by indonesia’s breathtak-ing marine flora, the Coraline collection (pictured) is Jenggala’s most recent cre-ation. the glaze is applied by hand and left to nature’s forces in the kiln. Each piece possesses a unique and organic combination of color with a random coral-like surface.www.jenggala.com

The Batu Jimbar Connection

BaliSavvy | 29

Laying the foundations for tropical style, the Batujimbar Estate owes its existence to a creative collaboration that involved Australian artist Donald Friend, Manadonese architect Wija Waworuntu, and renowned Sri Lankan ar-chitect Geoffrey Bawa. When Friend arrived in Bali in 1966, in Sanur he met Waworuntu, who had established a small

— what we’d call today ‘bou-tique’ — hotel on the coast, Tandjung Sari, filled with antiques and Balinese art. In-spired by this, Friend decided to create Batujimbar, a tropi-cal residential estate that was the first of its kind and her-alded the birth of ‘Bali Style’.

Image courtesy of Villa Batujim-bar (www.villabatujimbar.com).

30 | BaliSavvy

in the beginning, there was a young Canadian art student who found himself in Bali in the mid-’70s, and there discov-ered a passion for local artisanal jewelry-making techniques.

Having dedicated himself to their study, he created John Hardy Jew-elry, which became an in-ternational luxury brand,

shipped from Bali to the swankiest stores of the world, a brand known for its rich designs in sterling silver and its traditional processes.

today, the man behind John Hardy has switched his focus to education (www.green-school.org) and beauti-ful bamboo (www.ibuku.com), but the jewelry

brand continues to thrive.Call ahead to ar-

range a visit to the inspir-ing workshop in Mambal, close to Ubud, and see if you can get an invite to the staff lunch, a delicious daily event that gives a special insight into the culture of this unique company.

www.johnhardy.com

John Hardyinspiring beauty

BaliSavvy | 31

John Hardyinspiring beauty

MILO’Snamed for its founder, italian designer Milo Migliavacca, a long-term resident of the island who is also grandly dubbed “the Original Prince of Batik Couture”, Milo’s col-lections have done much to redefine and popularize the traditional technique of batik.

this is truly elegant tropi-cal fashion, with batik prints on rayon-jersey, silk-jersey, appliqué embroidery, knit, silk chiffon, and

silk organza, sometimes adorned with beads, sequins, or crystals.

His other beautiful passion is for orchids – as well as featuring them in his designs, he grows them in their thousands and creates new hybrids. “it’s about aesthetics, forms and color,” he says. “it’s not very differ-ent, designing a dress or a shirt or a print or designing a new flower.”

www.milos-bali.comwww.milosbaliorchids.com

32 | BaliSavvy

as perhaps with any eponymous brand, the Paul Ropp experience is as much about the man himself as it is about the clothing. it’s about humor, color, self-expression. and the man himself is a phenomenon, regarded as a master of casual elegance and of throwing a good party. in short, he makes people happy, and does it in 29 countries to date. “Buying our collection for the sea-son is cheaper than going into therapy, quicker,” says Paul. “it’s an immediate fix for a smile.” His designs and color combinations are instantly recogniz-able, anywhere in the world. “Why?

Because of the colors and the details and everything that it is that comprises that garment. Who wears colors like this together? Why? Because that’s what makes life exciting, to express yourself using color. Basically i’m a very shy guy. i use my work to express the confidence i want to feel in my own life.”

He regards Bali as “the most cul-tured place i’ve ever been”, a place where collaborations can thrive. asked to sum up his experience here, he re-marks that: “the greatest thing about Bali is the people…both life and death are with tears and smiles and laughter.”

Paul Roppcolors that elevate

www.paulropp.com

www.paulropp.comwww.paulropp.com

delivered directly to the homes of preferred American Express® card-

members in the region, Bali savvy is also available at select venues in Bali,

to catch the eye of savvy travelers while on the road.

BaliSavvyThe Official American Express® Guide to the IslandBaliSavvy

the Beach issue

The Official American Express® Guide to the Island

BaliSavvy

GreatGetaways


BaliSavvy

Seminyak Insiders

Bali has long been an island of inspiration for visitors: from designers to hoteliers, entrepreneurs, restaurateurs, and a multitude of others who come here to release their creative energies. Bali Savvy taps into some of that inspiration by showcasing the dynamic and vibrant Bali lifestyle, giving access to the best of what’s on offer on this trendsetting island.

FOR MORE INFORMATION, E-MAIL BALI SAVVY: [email protected]


BaliSavvy

The Ultimate Party Guide

your savvy travel companion

the Bali Savvy Listings comprise a selection of the best experiences on the island, by area: where to eat, drink, shop, stay, and what not to miss.

*SAVVY LISTINGS

SEMINYAK (p.36)Explore the shopping

and social scenes of this hip hub of

indulgence.

KUTA (p.50)the fun and frenzied

first stop for many visi-tors to Bali: carefree Kuta is all about the

sun and surf.

LEGIAN (p.55)shops and sunset spots between the

happy chaos of Kuta and the sophistication

of seminyak.

ULUWATU (p.58)From surfer style to ultra-chic: stunning views and beautiful beaches are key to Uluwatu’s appeal.

JIMBARAN (P.63)

a fishing village, fancy resorts, and fresh seafood at

sunset.

NUSA DUA (p.66)Picture-perfect beaches

and calm clear blue waters in a tranquil

enclave on the southeast coast.

SANUR (p.72)a laid-back coastal

village that was once a high-end haunt for socialites, stars, and

artists.

UBUD (p.80)art, culture, and natural beauty abound in this

cosmopolitan hill town.

SELECTS OFFERS (p. 108)

the best deals in Bali for

american Express® Cardmembers.

36 | BaliSavvy

se

min

ya

K CHIC CHARISMA

To step into Seminyak is to step out of ‘typical’ Bali;

this hip hub is more comparable to international play-

grounds such as Ibiza, with its dazzling variety of res-

taurants, bars, clubs, boutique designer stores, cutting

edge art galleries, and a crowd that keeps up the tempo

from morning to night and back into the morning again.

Above all, Seminyak is about indulgence.

A typical Seminyak day begins and concludes by the sea,

with forays into the area’s shops and eateries to occupy

the afternoon hours. Sunsets along this western coast

are particularly striking, and can be savored from many

points along the beach, whether at old favorites Ku De Ta

or La Lucciola, while an ever-increasing number of res-

taurants and bars await discovery along Jl. Oberoi and

Jl. Petitenget.

BaliSavvy | 37

SE

MIN

YA

KscEnE

Poolside at the samaya, seminyak. the hotel’s beachfront area is a perfect spot to watch the changing colors of the dusk sky in a more tranquil seminyak setting.

38 | BaliSavvy

BouTiQuE BLiss

Shopping in Seminyak offers plenty of quirky pleasures. The

area is a hub for creative types from all over the world, and

many have opened their own boutiques on a shopping belt

that stretches from Legian to Laksmana.

For fashion, Bamboo Blonde (Jl. Laksmana 61, +62 361 7805919) is a funky store that houses in-novative women’ wear, with lead-ing brands from Australia and their own in-house brand. Susana Perini’s flagship Biasa store (Jl. Raya Seminyak 36, +62 361 730 308) has elegantly simple tropical clothing for men and women (just a couple of doors down from Biasa Art Space, her gallery of contem-porary art). Milo’s (Jl. Laksmana 38, +62 361 735551) and Paul Ropp (Jl. Raya Seminyak 39, +62 361 734208) are among Bali’s best (see p.42).

The women’s sportswear, beach-wear and swimwear at Body and Soul (Jl. Raya Seminyak 11, +62 361 733564) is popular with the younger set, while for colorful, smart children’s clothes, Dande-lion is a good bet (Jl. Raya Basang-kasa 28, +62 361 730375).

Mario Silver (Jl. Raya Semin-yak 19, +62 361 730977) is the retail outlet of one of Bali’s lead-ing silver jewelry designers and manufacturers. If bling is your thing, accessorize at Sabbatha (Jl. Raya Seminyak 97, +62 361 731756), where glitz and snake-skin abound.

Thinking of home? Warisan is the first stop for furniture and interi-ors, while Haveli (Jl. Basangkasa 15 & 38, +62 361 737160) carries decorative objects, mirrors, lamps, table linen, and more. Hishem (Jl. Sunset Road 86C, +62 361 737441) manufactures hugely popular all-weather resistant synthetic rattan furniture. SimpleKonsepStore (Jl. Laksmana 40, +62 361 730939) is unique, carrying items that can range from Philippe Starck chairs to Alessi knick-knacks, Melissa shoes, Vivienne Westwood acces-sories, and diverse others.

SE

MIN

YA

K

BaliSavvy | 39

SE

MIN

YA

K

the bustle of seminyak continues to provide inspiration to designers and artists from all over the world, such as tricia Kim, who came here from new York 12 years ago and started her own exquisite jewelry brand, nagicia (www.nagicia.com). “One of the primary reasons i stay on in Bali is the great relationship i have with my jewel-

lers who enable me to fulfil my creative passions,” says tricia. “the handwork in Bali is labor-intensive and intricate and that also draws inspiration for many designers. art and sculpture...if i had known about Bali before i went to art school i would have just come here instead! Just the day to day living for the Balinese is an ‘art’.”

BouTiQuE BLiss

nagicia is also available at treasures in Ubud.

40 | BaliSavvy

sAVVy

SIPJl. Raya seminyak 16at: +62 361 [email protected], www.sip-bali.com

authentic bistro-style restaurant on seminyak’s main street, opened by sommelier Christian Vanneque in 2008 to offer deli-ciously satisfying French cuisine and an extensive wine list. Full marks for a remarkably well-equipped bathroom that leaves little to be desired for those in need of a refresher between sips.

LA SAL

Jl. Drupadi II No. 100T: +62 361 [email protected]“Life’s no life without salt” is, ap-propriately, the motto of this tapas-style restaurant tucked away on a quieter Seminyak street. Bright and airy by day, at night the cozy can-dlelit ambience makes it the perfect place to share a meal with a special someone or a group of friends.

LA LUCCIOLA

Jl. Oberoi, KerobokanT: +62 361 730 838Situated in a fabulous location right on Petitenget beach, the restaurant is designed to allow guests to take full advantage of the vista. La Lucciola serves breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner, and delicious desserts, and is home to the Frangipani Bar, a popu-lar choice for watching the legendary sunset on this stretch of coast.

METIS

Jl. Petitenget No. 6, KerobokanT: +62 361 737 888 [email protected], www.metisbali.comOpened in October 2009, this is Bali’s newest fine dining restaurant, created by Nicolas “Doudou” Tourn-eville and Said Alem, the same team that created the celebrated Warisan restaurant. Their latest venture con-tinues to please palates in a beautiful

*EAT

SE

MIN

YA

K

BaliSavvy | 41

SE

MIN

YA

KsAVVy

Wining and dining are favorite pursuits in Seminyak, where there are a variety of options for enjoying world-class cuisine, often at very reasonable prices.

setting. Check their website for daily events and specials.

SARDINE

Jl Petitenget No. 21, Kerobokan T: +62 361 738 202www.sardinebali.comA successful addition to Seminyak’s chic dining scene, Sardine specializ-es in fish and other seafood prepared with Mediterranean flair. An inti-mate restaurant with an innovative all-bamboo design and clear views over the rice paddies.

SARONG

Jl. Petitenget No19x, KerobokanT: +62 361 737 [email protected] Sarong makes a statement that a res-taurant is not about what’s on the menu, but who’s behind the menu. The man behind Sarong’s exquisite

menu is Chef Will Meyrick, who since coming to Bali was also the leading man behind Husk at the Sofi-tel and Blossom at Sentosa. Other than the delicious dishes, this is the place to go for a sensational sip of Vanilla Vodka and Mint Tea.

BIKU

Jl. Petitenget, KerobokanT: +62 361 857 0888 [email protected] A delightful afternoon retreat, Biku is a cozy place where it’s possible to make yourself at home for hours on end. A tea lounge, restaurant, antiques store and bookstore (oper-ated by Ganesha), the only challenge you will face here is tearing yourself away from the assortment of delec-table cakes and scones.

sAVVy

42 | BaliSavvy

HU’U

Jl. Oberoi, PetitengetT: +62 361 736 443www.huubali.comThis funky nightspot, located be-tween KU DE TA and The Living Room, has sustained a popularity all of its own. The star attraction here is the centerpiece swimming pool, where the bold and the beauti-ful can jump in when it gets too hot on the dancefloor. The rest of the compound consists of a chilled-out drinking area and dining area in the garden and pavilion.

KU DE TA

Jl. Oberoi 9, PetitengetT: +62 361 736 969www.kudeta.netJokingly described as Seminyak’s ‘spiritual center’, spend some time here and you will see that it was only half in jest. The Seminyak ‘scene’ started here, and this effortlessly stylish bar-restaurant-beach club

still oozes appeal, with two bars, in-door/outdoor restaurant seating and beachfront sunbeds to laze on while the DJ spins an eclectic mix of mu-sic, new and old, with one of the best sunset views on Bali. What more could you ask for?

THE LIVING ROOM

Jl. Petitenget 2000xT: +62 361 735 735E: [email protected] fine dining restaurant and lounge also attracts a hip clientele, who stay on until the early hours to party on the dancefloor. An institu-tion and often the final port of call for those in the mood for a big night in northern Seminyak.

RED CARPET

CHAMPAGNE BAR

Jl. Oberoi 42cT: +62 361 737 889E: [email protected] ritzy bar specializing in the glori-ous bubbly beverage. Think Moët ac-companied by a platter of oysters. No need to go to tinseltown darling, the red carpet’s right here in Seminyak.

*dRink

SE

MIN

YA

K

SE

MIN

YA

KsAVVy

BaliSavvy | 43

RYOSHI

Jl. Raya Seminyak 17T: +62 361 733963On most Monday nights, the Semi-nyak outlet of the Ryoshi group of Japanese restaurants (others are in Ubud, Sanur, and Kuta) hosts im-promptu music sessions with visiting musicians. Grab a sake, sit back, and you may be in for some pleasant sur-prises when you see the talent that’s in town.

PURA PETITENGET

Located close to the beach off Jl. Petitenget is a large temple complex that is one of the most important in Bali, known for particularly spec-

tacular beachside ceremonies. There has been a temple here since the site was visited by a 16th-century priest, and although this is not one of the nine key directional temples of Bali, it is an important link in the series of sea temples along the coastline stretching from Pura Luhur Uluwatu to Pura Tanah Lot. Thronged on ma-jor festival days, it’s a good location at which to witness some of the most important Balinese ceremonies.

SENTOSA VILLAS & RESORT

Jl. Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget T: +62 361 730 540E: [email protected] opening in 2007, Sentosa has

*sEE *sTAy

“If the priorities in [Kuta] revolve around finding cold beer, the priorities in Seminyak involve talking about designers – or claiming to be one.”

Ryan Ver Berkmoes, Bali Encounter, Lonely Planet 2009

44 | BaliSavvy

claimed its place in the very high-est echelon of chic Seminyak hotels. There are no hotel rooms as such, rather this is a villa resort and each villa has its own pool. Common ar-eas are spectacular here and include a top class gym and spa.

ZIVA, A BOUTIQUE VILLA

Jl. Braban no. 80 T. +62 361 847 8202E. [email protected] spacious private villas in the heart of Seminyak, within walking distance of ‘Eat Street’ (Jl. Oberoi). Clean contemporary design com-bines with luscious greenery to foster an atmostphere of seclusion. Villas are fully equipped with technology, amenities, and a lap-able pool.

SILQ PRIVATE RESIDENCES

Jl. Petitenget 27 CT: +62 361 847461E: [email protected] stay at SILQ is the great Semin-yak escape: 17 tastefully designed private residences, each with its own private pool and an atmosphere con-

ducive to play. The penthouse with its tented bedroom ceiling and large pool set in a manicured tropical gar-den is a particular highlight, perfect for parties with friends or luxuriant quiet time with loved ones.

THE SAMAYAJl. laksmana, Petitenget, Kerobokan t: +62 361 731 149E: [email protected]

the samaya is a stylish villa re-sort with forty-six villas over four hectares of land. twenty-four of these command a premier loca-tion along the fashionable semi-nyak beachfront, while the Royal Courtyard Villas are set in a tran-quil Balinese village environment just across the road.it has its own wonderful restau-rant called the Breeze, and guests enjoy 180-degree beach and ocean views from its Olym-pic-sized swimming pool.

sAVVy

SE

MIN

YA

K

SE

MIN

YA

KsAVVy

Ziva, a Boutique Villa, seminyak.

SE

MIN

YA

K

A Seminyak villa resort with 18 uniquely designed full service

villas, The Kunja offers guests ample living space, both within the

individual villas and throughout the property as a whole. The one-

bedroom retreats are designed for couples and honeymooners,

while three-bedroom villas are perfect for family time. Weddings

can be celebrated on site at the glass Santi Chapel, day or night.

46 | BaliSavvy

BaliSavvy | 47

sTuFF

tHE KUnJaJl. lebak sari 8, Kerobokant: +62 361 733130www.thekunja.com

SE

MIN

YA

K

<<

Ku

ta CATCHING THAT WAVE

Hectic, bustling Kuta is often the initial port of call for

first-time visitors to Bali, and especially for those of the

surfing persuasion. In the 1980s, backpackers used to

refer to the three Ks: Katmandu, Khao San Road, and

Kuta. Still here today, within a dense network of teem-

ing alleyways and busy streets, are inexpensive hotels,

lively bars, tattoo artists, hawkers, tourist knick-knacks

and a range of attire targeting the beach loving tourist.

Increasingly, there are more refined establishments

springing up to challenge the cheap and cheerful image,

but there’s no downplaying that Kuta spirit: carefree,

party-ready, and young at heart.

The Legian area, heading north, is like Kuta’s older sis-

ter: with its quieter shopping ambience and more pol-

ished hangouts, it is a bridge between the happy chaos

of Kuta and the sophistication of Seminyak. The most

lively strip is along Blue Ocean Beach/Double Six Beach,

where the action never stops – as soon as surf’s up, the

beach is abuzz, and the cafés and restaurants alongside

are great for people-watching during the day, witnessing

great sunsets come evening, and checking out the party

crowd at night. le

Gia

n

BaliSavvy | 51

scEnE

KU

TA

Designed in a comfortable combina-tion of romantic Balinese minimalism and rich italian reds, Rosso Vivo on Jl. Pantai Kuta lives up to the lively expec-tations that its name inspires. With a bird’s eye view of the goings-on along Kuta beach, and a prime position from which to enjoy the sunset, it is an oasis

in the midst of the sometimes chaotic noise and haste of the street just out-side. Get there on time for the 5-7pm Happy Hour to make the most of the sunset grill and cocktails. Jl. Pantai Kuta Tel: +62 361 751961

52 | BaliSavvy

sAVVy

Aromas CafÉ

Jl. Legian

T: +62 361 751 003.

A haven for vegetarian foodies in

the heart of Kuta, with an extensive

menu and open for breakfast, lunch,

and dinner. Also good for a coffee

and cake break.

Made’s Warung

Jl. Pantai Kuta

T: +62 361 755297

The original, and some would argue

best, Made’s Warung (its larger and

also extremely popular sister is in

Seminyak).

One of the very first restaurants in

Kuta, and still serving up a great nasi

campur, along with other Indonesian

and Western dishes.

TJ’s MEXICAN BAR &

RESTAURANT

Poppies Gang I

T: +62 361 751093

Some of the finest Mexican food on

the island is to be found here, and

perhaps the best frozen margaritas,

with the restaurant’s cheerful in-

teriors providing the perfect atmo-

sphere for a fiesta.

MAMA’S

Jl. Legian

T: +62 361 761151

This 24-hour German restaurant

serves up schnitzel, wurst, and beer

around the clock. Popular for watch-

ing sports and for a hearty breakfast

after a long night.

Ma Joly

Jl. Wana Segara, Tuban

(At Kupu Kupu Barong Resort)

T: +62 361 753 780

Alfresco dining in a beachfront loca-

tion in a quiet part of south Kuta/

Tuban. A great spot for the sunset,

or to have a drink before departing

for the nearby airport.

*EAT | dRink

KU

TA

BaliSavvy | 53

sAVVy

KU

TA

“Some say Kuta is

Bali’s fun vacation

spot, others go out of

their way to avoid it. If

you’re young or young

at heart and love being

where the action is,

you’ll agree with the

first assessment.”

Howard Hillman

Kafe Batan Waru

Jl Kartika Plaza, Kuta

T: +62 361 766 303

One of the Bali Good Food stable,

Batan Waru has been an institution

in Ubud for many years and their

Kuta outlet is similarly successful.

PRO SURF SCHOOL BALI

Jl. Pantai Kuta

T: +62 361 7441466

www.prosurfschool.com

Learn to surf with the top surf

school in Bali. Pro Surf School

offers comprehensive surfing les-

sons for beginners, intermediate

and advanced surfers, as well as

surf trips around Bali.

WATERBOM PARK

Jl. Kartika Plaza (opposite Discov-

ery Shopping Mall)

T: +62 361 755676

This is one of the biggest water

theme parks in Asia, within walk-

ing distance of Kuta beach. A good

place for a family outing, with

slides for the young and young at

heart, plus a spa for the adults.

*do

*EAT | dRink

54 | BaliSavvy

sAVVy

KU

TA

TICKET TO THE MOON

Jl. Raya Legian

T: +62 361 763579

In case you left your hammock at

home, this famous Bali brand is

here to help. Hammocks are made

from parachute fabric that fold up

into the smallest, lightest package

imaginable.

DISCOVERY SHOPPING

MALL

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta

A huge American-style mall with

plenty of international brand such

as Guess, Marks and Spencers,

Sogo and Top Shop. The second

level is occupied fully by the Cen-

tro department store, and there

are many cafés and a large elec-

tronics retailer on the third level.

There are several waterfront cafés

on the ground level, with ocean

views.

HARD ROCK HOTEL

Jalan Pantai Kuta

T: +62 361 761869

Part of the global Hard Rock

chain, this offers exactly what

you would expect, right on Kuta

Beach. Has the largest pool in Bali

and an array of other facilities in-

cluding a spa, fitness centre, kid’s

club and a rock-climbing wall.

Several restaurants and bars and

their very own radio station.

MERCURE KUTA

Jl. Pantai Kuta 100x

T: +62 361 767411

Located right on Kuta Beach, af-

fordable comfort with sunset

views, in the heart of a surfers’

paradise. Managed by Accor,

the hotel also has a very good in-

house spa, and a rooftop pool.

*shoP *sTAy

BaliSavvy | 55

sAVVy

LE

GIA

N

LANAIJl. Double SixT: +62 361 731 305 Lanai serves up hearty portions and has great views of the beach from the upstairs balcony. Popu-lar with visitors, it enjoys the west coast sunset and has a cozy night-time ambience.

ZANZIBARJl. Double SixT: +62 361 733529A well-established restaurant with excellent Italian cuisine and especially good pasta dishes and seafood. A good spot to grab breakfast before hitting the surf.

DOUBLE SIXJl. Double SixT: +62 361 733067www.doublesixclub.comThis infamous dance club, right next to Double Six beach, regular-ly draws huge crowds to events with big name DJs. It also has a large swimming pool, 45 meters above which is a bungy jump tow-er operated by AJ HACKETT (+62 361 731144). It’s possible to jump either during the day or late at night/early morning, as the beats thump in the club below.

DE JA VUJl. Double Six no. 7X T: +62 361 733777 A still very happening beach-side dance bar. Popular with the pre-Double Six crowd from about midnight until 3AM. This venue also hosts events with DJs from all over the world.

*EAT *dRink

PADMA RESORT BALI AT LEGIANJl Padma No. 1 T: +62 361 752111www.padmaresortbali.comFormerly known as Hotel Padma, the resort has recently relaunched with a new name and brand. Reno-vation and refurbishment are still in progress, but so far the results are promising and occupancy is already high.

O-CE-N Bali by OutriggerJI Arjuna 88X T: +62 361 737400www.outrigger.comA huge luxury apartment hotel right on the beach. Flat-panel televisions, cable service, and high-speed Internet access are standard features in all rooms, while fifth floor penthouse suites offer split-level accommodations with private Jacuzzi tubs and landscaped garden terraces suit-able for entertaining.

BALI NIKSOMAJl. Padma Utara T: +62 361 751946www.baliniksoma.comA super-stylish boutique hotel on the beach in Legian. Designed by Hadi Prana and equipped with top quality spa, restaurant and large pool.

VILLA DE DAUNJl. Legian T: +62 361 756276 An oasis down a small lane off Jl. Legian, with stylish private villas and a highly rated in-house spa, bookings are often made with spa packages included.

*sTAy

sAVVy

LE

GIA

N

BaliSavvy | 57

SHOPPING SCENE

the streets of legian are crammed

with shops. Jalan Padma is espe-

cially good for beads and trin-

kets. Jalan arjuna is lined with

small stores selling sarongs and

fabrics. On Jalan legian look for

slightly more upmarket boutiques,

and surfwear/sportswear stores.

JIM

BA

RA

N &

UL

UW

AT

U

58 | BaliSavvy

ulu

Wa

tu LIVING THE HIGH LIFE

Uluwatu, and the surrounding area along the west coast

of the Bukit peninsula, was visited by surfers before

anyone else thought of venturing there. With time, the

stunning cliff views and beautiful beaches broadened

the area’s appeal, and many developers have moved in

to create ultra-chic, ultra-exclusive villas and resorts

that take advantage of the natural landscape to jaw-

dropping effect.

Uluwatu was a pilgrimage site long before it became

sacred to surfers: Pura Luhur Uluwatu is one of Bali’s

nine key directional temples, in a spectacular clifftop

location 70 meters above the Indian Ocean. Visitors are

free to walk around the temple grounds, while the cen-

tral courtyards can only be entered during special ritu-

als, and it is an experience that is well worth braving the

sometimes fearsome (and always thieving) monkeys.

On the cliff adjacent to the temple, one of Bali’s most

memorable kecak performances can be witnessed every

day at sunset. Below the temple is a large sea cave and

Suluban Beach, one of the most famous surf spots on

the island.

JIM

BA

RA

N &

UL

UW

AT

U

BaliSavvy | 59

ACTIV

ITY

alila Villas Uluwatu is a property in the area that truly takes advantage of its location: stunning tropical architecture meets breathtaking pan-oramic ocean views.

UL

UW

AT

U

60 | BaliSavvy

An exclusive private Villa Estate

with personalized butler service,

The edge offers breathtaking

views of the ocean from its clifftop

Pecatu location. Within each villa

is a fully integrated entertainment

audio and visual system, and wi-fi

internet, king size bathtubs, out-

door garden showers, and a fully

catered kitchen. Estate facilities in-

clude its spa, pool, wedding venue,

wine cellar, wine tasting lounge,

UL

UW

AT

U

ACTIV

ITY

BaliSavvy | 61

The edgeJl. Pura Goa lempehBanjar Dinas Kangin, Pecatu - Uluwatut: +62 361 8470700www.the-edgebali.com

theatre, kids room, gymnasium,

and nanny residence. The edge

prides itself on its no menu policy,

serving “personally tailor made”

food under the gourmet guidance

of the Executive Chef.

UL

UW

AT

U

SAVVY

UL

UW

AT

U

62 | BaliSavvy

BUlGaRi HOTElS & RESORTS BaliJl. Goa Lempeh, Banjar Dinas KanginT: +62 361 8471000www.bulgarihotels.comThe only Bulgari property in South East Asia is located here in Bali. Bulgari’s signature stylish contemporary design is on display throughout the resort. All of the toiletries are, of course, Bulgari. So are the crafts and fabrics used, which are exclusively designed and produced for this property.

THE iSTaNaT: +62 361 730668www.theistana.comThis five-suite clifftop estate overlooks white sand beaches and a lagoon abundant with sea life and coral, and at night, magical sunsets.

*dRink *sTAy

step on board the inclinator at Karma Kandara, and within seconds you will be transported to a white sand beach club with perfect water, killer cocktails and flavorful snacks: nammos Beach Club. the Rp.150,000 fee levied on outside guests is discounted from the final bill.www.karmakandara.com

SAVVY

BaliSavvy | 63

Jim

Ba

ra

n SUNSET BEACH

Once a simple fishing village,

Jimbaran and its 5-kilometer

white sand coastline is now

home to several of Bali’s more

upscale resorts. But its fishing

heritage is still an important

part of the Jimbaran experience,

no more so than at sunset on the

beach where there is a plethora

of fresh seafood restaurants to

choose from.

Sitting around tables in the sand,

eating delicious grilled fish while

a band of musicians roams the

beach playing everything from

the Gipsy Kings to Frank Sina-

tra: this is, for many, the epitome

of the Jimbaran experience.

again

Regardless ofnumber of timesi see sunsetsin Jimbaran Bay.it is alwaysThe first

Beauty eclipsedBy its own nature

Everything huedout

Exaggerated

showing off

cirque de soleil

The blackToothed catof the new moonRising silentyet chuckling

John o’sullivanBaliAugust 2008

ACTIV

ITYJ

IMB

AR

AN

FOUR SEASONS RESORT BALI AT JIMBARAN BAYJl. Four seasons, Jimbarant: +62 361 701010www.fourseasons.com/jimbaranbay

two sides of Bali can be enjoyed by combining a stay here with a sojourn at its sister property in Ubud, the Four seasons Resort Bali at sayan. the general manager attributes the special nature of a stay here to “the quality of personal service…personal service which delivers recognition, reassurance and respect in authentic and appropri-ate ways ensuring that every detail is what guests would wish for, and more.” add to that a breathtakingly beautiful property, and little is left to be desired.

JENGGala KERaMiKJl. Uluwatu no. 2T: +62 361 703311Bali’s popular ceramic maker. Shop, make or decorate your own piece, or relax in the adjacent café.

PaUl ROPPJl. Uluwatu no. 80T: +62 361 701202www.paulropp.comStriking clothes and accessories in vibrant colors, fashioned from the finest silk and cotton fabrics.

THERMES MaRiNS BaliAyana Resort & SpaJl.Karang Mas SejahteraT: +62 361 702222www.ayanaresort.comOne of the most sought-after spas in Bali, combining luxurious design, well-trained therapists, and a wide range of treatments. A highlight is the therapeutic pool, perched on a cliff overlooking the sea.

*sTAy *shoP/do

SAVVY

ACTIV

ITYJ

IMB

AR

AN

BaliSavvy | 65

66 | BaliSavvy

nu

sa

Du

aBEACHSIDE BLISS

Bali’s successful project for planned tourism develop-

ment, Nusa Dua provides a picture perfect holiday ex-

perience. While its meticulously landscaped environ-

ment lacks some of the charm of more authentic Balinese

landscapes, it fulfils its role as a tranquil resort enclave,

and does it well, providing a respite from the intensity of

other popular tourist zones on the island.

Some of the most luxurious hotels are here, most

with direct access to pristine white sand beaches and

gentle clear blue waters – Nusa Dua provides the perfect

getaway for those who want the least taxing of all pos-

sible vacations.

For those who can tear themselves away from the

idyllic beach and the in-hotel entertainment, the 18-hole

Nusa Dua Golf and Country Club is one of the top three

golf courses in Bali; the Pasifika Museum showcases the

art of Bali, Southeast Asia, and the South Pacific region;

and shopping options are aplenty at the Bali Collection,

a complex that includes several restaurants, SOGO de-

partment store, and a wide selection of boutiques and

specialty outlets. Tanjung Benoa, north of the complex,

offers a multitude of watersports activities, from jetski-

ing to banana boating.

BaliSavvy | 67

ACTIV

ITYThe Nikko Beach Club boasts one of the pic-ture perfect stretches of sand and sea for which Nusa Dua is renowned.

NU

SA

DU

A

SAVVY

NU

SA

DU

A

68 | BaliSavvy

aMaNUSaJl. Nusa Dua SelatanT: +62 361 772333Part of one of the world’s most ex-clusive hotel groups, Amanusa is located on a sloping, immaculately landscaped property adjacent to the Bali Golf & Country Club. All 35 thatched-roof suites have wooden four-poster beds, draped in white veils, and an outdoor shower is built into a high wall of paras stone. Spectacular views of the In-dian Ocean and Nusa Dua.

NiKKO Bali RESORT & SPa Jl. Raya Nusa Dua SelatanT: +62 361 773377The recently renovated lobby is blessed with perhaps the best view from any hotel in Nusa Dua – from 40 meters above the sea, a vast ex-panse of blue ocean stretches to the distant horizon. In 2010 the Resort completed the fi-nal phase in upgrading all facilities, a multimillion dollar project that

began in 2006 with the cliff-top Wi-waha wedding chapel – a split-level glass structure that offers a sweep-ing 180-degree view of the Indian Ocean.

THE WESTiN Kawasan Wisata BTDC T: +62 361 771906 All rooms at The Westin have a private balcony, with views of the pool, the tropical garden, or the beach. Using the Heavenly Bed as their icon, comfort is guaranteed. Its Kids Club is also beneficial for those traveling with kids, who have their own check-in counter and a variety of activities to keep them occupied while parents relax and enjoy some time off.

*sTAy

ACTIV

ITYSAVVY

NU

SA

DU

A

*EAT/dRink *do

BUMBU BaliJl. Pratama, Tanjung BenoaT: +62 361 774502www.bumbubaliresto.comAuthentic Balinese food with fine dining flair. Also offers famous cooking classes.

UlaM RESTaURaNTJl. Pantai MengiatT: +62 361 771590A local institution for traditional Balinese food in the Nusa Dua area.

MaRTiNi BaRThe Royal SantrianJl. Pratama, TanjungBenoaT: +62 361 778181Poolside and beachside bar with a menu of 100 martini recipes.

WaTERSPORTSJl. Pratama, Tanjung BenoaAlong the road heading north from Nusa Dua, a multitude of water-sports centers can be found, offering everything from diving, snorkeling, windsurfing, cruises and waterski-ing to banana boat rides.

Bali GOlF & COUNTRy ClUBKawasan Wisata BTDC T: +62 361 771791www.baligolfandcountryclub.com One of Bali’s most popular destina-tions for both foreign and domestic golfers. Each hole offers a differ-ent vista: Nusa Dua, the ocean, or Mount Agung. Green fees $150.

“Nusa Dua offers a decidedly serene environment for those who

want to get away from Bali. Walk down the hotel corridors to expe-

rience a spacious, make-believe, gloriously landscaped world…”

Bill Dalton, Indonesia Handbook (Moon Publications)

Kayumanis nusa Dua is an exquisiteenclave of well-appointed luxurious pavilions, each offering unrivalled space, exceptional comfort, and com-plete privacy within secluded walled gardens, and designed in a variety of styles: Balinese, Javanese, Oriental, Palembang, Primitive, and Modern.

KaYUManis nUsa DUaKawasan Wisata BtDCt: +62 361 770777www.kayumanis.com

*shoP*sTAy

Bali COllECTiONKawasan Wisata BTDC T: +62 361 771662www.bali-collection.comOne stop shopping haven for those staying in the area. It has a huge variety of shops, including Sogo De-partment Store, Alun – Alun, Body & Soul, and many more.

SERENE liviNGConrad BaliJl. Pratama 168T: +62 361 778788Modern and sleek designs for those inspired by holiday thoughts of home redecoration.

ACTIV

ITYSAVVY

NU

SA

DU

A

BaliSavvy | 71

72 | BaliSavvy

sa

nu

r EXPAT HAVENS

Although it enjoys a more peaceful reputation than other

areas on Bali, Sanur has had quite an impressive history

in relation to the island’s evolution.

It was the high-end haunt for socialites, stars and art-

ists. Some of the earliest known artists include the Dutch

W.O.J. Nieuwenkamp who drew the Dutch invasion ar-

riving at the Sanur Beach in 1906; the Germans Hans and

Rolf Neuhaus were here in 1935; Mexican born Miguel

Covarrubias did his time; the Swiss Theo Meier and the

Belgian Le Mayeur, who became known for the beautiful

muse paintings of his beloved dancer wife, Ni Polok. His

house is now the Le Mayeur Museum and commemo-

rates his life with great authenticity.

In the ‘70s, the likes of Mick Jagger, David Bowie, Yoko

Ono and Sting regularly stayed at the famous Tandjung

Sari Hotel and mingled with artists at La Taverna. Sa-

nur’s reputation has also been boldly charged by other

great personalities such as artist, Donald Friend and cult

figure, landscape designer, and writer, Made Wijaya.

[Jeane Seah]

BaliSavvy | 73Bali savvy >> 73

scEnE

SA

NU

R

a scene from the annual sanur Village Festival.

74 | BaliSavvy

CAFÉ BATU JIMBAR Jl. Danau Tamblingan 75A T: +62 361 287374

A reliable place for quality, the casual parasol-shaded terrace is frequented by fruit-juice and cake-lovers, serious Indonesian food fans and even western salad and meat-cravers. The Sunday morning market is a notable event, with a brunch specializing in local dishes traditionally cre-ated and organic products. Jazz on Thursdays.

LE RESTO MING Jl. Danau Tamblingan 105 T: +62 361 286079An old favorite of local expat resi-dents and tourists alike, serving French/international cuisine and local favorites. A highlight is the cozy arty atmosphere in a contem-porary Balinese setting.

MEZZANINEJl. Danau Tamblingan 63 T: +62 361 270624Elegant dining in a contemporary setting, with terrace, this restau-rant serves Thai, Chinese, Japa-nese and international cuisine on the south side of Sanur. It’s part of the Puri Santrian Hotel, which has another pleasant restaurant on the beach. Some evenings offer soft live music.

ISOLAJl. Danau Tamblingan 29, SanurTel: +62 361 289 310On the beachside of Hotel La Taver-na, this is perfect for intimate din-ing evenings and beach privacy.

And if Mount Agung is visible, the setting provides for an intense Balinese sensation. Specializing in Italian and local fare. Jazz on Thursdays.

LA PAUJl. ByPass Ngurah Rai 178 T: +62 361 286178A warung-style Sumatran restau-rant famous for their Padang va-rieties. Scrumptious rendang and interesting vegetable specialties. If you don’t love hot, you miss a lot! Friday/Saturdays are especially popular for jazz/blues live perfor-mances. (*CASH ONLY)

*EAT | dRink

SA

NU

R

sAVVy

SA

NU

RsAVVy

BaliSavvy | 75

la taverna is perhaps one of the best-preserved hotels in the classical spirit of Bali, practically unchanged although continuously maintained and upgraded for decades. the quiet stretch of beach in front accompanies views of the majestic Mount agung beautifully, and much is done to keep every original feature intact, including the memories of sentimental Bali fans.

some evenings offer jazz or classi-cal music to suit its casually stylish atmosphere. Both la taverna and the tandjung sari Hotel next door have in common guest books that read like a who’s-who of celebrity visitors to the island since the 1970s – they comple-ment each other in every way possible for the total sanur experience. [Js]www.latavernahotel.com

sAVVy

76 | BaliSavvy

Cycling and walking

Sanur has an excellent paved beach-front cycle-path that stretches along 5 kilometers from the Jalan Mer-tasari area in south Sanur to the main beach at Jalan Hangtuah at the northern end of the village.

Diving and Watersports

CRySTal DivERSJl Danau Tamblingan 168 T: +62 361 286 737E: [email protected] first PADI Career Development Centre in Indonesia, offering a range of courses from intro dives to in-structor courses as well as day dive trips and dive safaris around Bali.

Bali KiTE SURFiNG SCHOOlMertasariT: +62 361 789 9013www.bali-kitesurfing.orgIKO certified kite-surfing school. The lessons are conducted in a safe, user-friendly environment and les-sons can be structured to suit indi-vidual needs.

BlUE OaSiS BEaCH ClUBJl. Danau Tamblingan T: +62 361 288 011Specialists in water sports, offering sea-kayaking, kite-surfing, paras-ailing, wakeboarding, waterskiing, windsurfing, and diving.

*do

sanur beach, with Mount agung in the background.

SA

NU

R

sAVVy

78 | BaliSavvy

THE BALI HYATTJl. Danau Tamblingan 89T: +62 361 281234The gardens are some of the love-liest in the area, revamped in the eighties by Made Wijaya. Sitting at the bar terrace looking over their grounds and beach evokes a relaxing old Bali feeling. First opened in 1973, with a youthful Kerry Hill as its site architect. THE PAVILIONSJl. Danau Tamblingan 76 T : + 62 361 288381A member of the Relais & Cha-teaux group, within the peaceful compound are 25 tranquil Bali-nese-style romantic pool villas, with a lagoon fringed by a reef and a white sand beach.

GRIYA SANTRIAN HOTELJl. Danau Tamblingan 47 T: +62 361 288181A well-run beachfront hotel that houses a spa and gallery, Rooms are well-appointed and spacious

with an intimate restaurant on the beach. Its sister hotel is Puri Sant-rian in southern Sanur.

TANDJUNG SARI HOTELJl. Danau tamblingan 41t: +62 361 288441www.tandjungsari.com

the centre of attention in the 1960s and 1970s as the first boutique ho-tel in asia, playing host to visiting dignitaries and celebrities from all over the world, tandjung sari is still, discreetly, going strong. With twenty-six Balinese bungalows in a lovely garden on the beach, it started out as an extension of the private house of Wija Wawo-Run-tu and his English artist wife Judith. Wija’s philosophy: “My hotel is my living room, my guests are my friends…”

SA

NU

R

*stay

80 | BaliSavvy

A BREATH OF FRESH AIR

For many visitors and residents, Ubud has long repre-

sented something essential to Bali’s unique charm, im-

mersed in the island’s finest art, culture, and natural

beauty,. Today it’s a cosmopolitan village, populated

with a colorful community of artists, healers, designers,

reformed hippies, health food aficionados, anthropolo-

gists, yogis and yoginis, and various escapees from the

‘real’world...while just minutes from the main street you

are back in traditional Bali, where a badling of ducks

can stop traffic and around every bend in the road are

expansive vistas of lush padi, villagers preparing en

masse to celebrate a religious festival or a cremation,

and gamelan and dance troupes in full flourish. That

Bali magic is to be found here, every day.

As it gains in popularity, Ubud is dealing with an

influx of traffic that is at present outstripping develop-

ment of the necessary infrastructure to cope with such

numbers. To enjoy it at its best, don’t settle for a day trip

– spend at least a night here if not making it the base for

your entire Bali stay.

uB

uD

BaliSavvy | 81

ACTIV

ITYSCENE

UB

UD

©E

len

a R

om

án

UB

UD

82 | BaliSavvy

GlOWComo shambhala Estate at Begawan Girit: +62 361 978888

Raw food doyenne Diana von Cranach (owner of Puri Ganesha resort in the northwest of the island) is the creative force behind the sub-lime uncooked offerings on Glow’s healthy menu. Verdantly serene by day, magical by night: reservations highly recommended.

TERaZOJl. SuwetaT: +62 361 978941From the Bali Good Food stable (along with its sister restaurants Café Batan Waru, Cinta, and Siam Sally), Terazo has a tropical colo-nial feel, the walls decorated with classic posters from the early days of the Indonesian tourism indus-try. Downstairs is good for a snug bird’s eye view of the action on the street outside, while upstairs there is a more refined feel: here, dining becomes an event.

BALI BUDDHAJl. Jembawan no. 1T: +62 361 976324Delicious healthy food with a daz-zling selection of juices and jamu, and a menu that ranges from vegan fare to great pastas and pizzas.Downstairs is a great little grocery store with everything from fresh baked goodies to natural soaps and incense sticks.

SAVVY

*EAT/dRink *EAT

ACTIV

ITY

BaliSavvy | 83

COFFEE AND SILVERJl. Monkey Forest no. 007T: +62 361 975354Charming indoor-outdoor venue where you’ll find live music and a magical ambience outdoors on Tuesdays, Thursdays, Saturdays and Sundays. The menu includes a tasty tapas selection.

THREE MONKEYSJl. Monkey ForestT: +62 361 974830A great escape from the buzz of Monkey Forest Road, whether for a full meal or just for a coffee and one of their delicious cakes and gelatos. The outdoor tables next to the rice padi are especially magical at night by torchlight.

INDUSJl. Raya Sanggingan T: +62 361 977684 The food is great too, but really it’s all about the view here: stunning valley views and, on a clear day,

“Ubud is a mood.” Leonard Lueras

SAVVY

Mount Agung in the distance.

PIGNOU DI PENYUJl. Goutama No.5 T : +62 361 972577Ubud has many sweet little hide-aways, and this French restaurant is as delightful a find as any. Lapin and escargot are most definitely on the menu, but the kitchen is also mindful of vegetarians. (*CASH ONLY)

IBU OKA WARUNG BABI GULINGJl. Suweta A Bali institution, and growing ever more popular with endorsements from the likes of Anthony Bourdain. It’s all about the pork here: the babi guling (spit-roasted pig) is served with rice and spiced veggies. Seating is on the floor at low tables inside the bale (pavilion), or at regular tables. (CASH ONLY)

UB

UD

UB

UD

84 | BaliSavvy

ARY’S WARUNGJl Raya Ubud 35 T: +62 361 975959It started out as a real warung back in the ‘80s, but Ary’s is now a rather more stylish venue, popular for dinner but also with a bar at which to perch early evening and watch the world go by on Ubud’s main strip.

NAUGHTY NURI’SJl. Raya Sanggingan T: +62 361 977 547The roadside ‘warung’ as legend-ary for its New York-style marti-nis as it is for its barbecued pork ribs and its lively conversations. A magnet for tourists and expats alike. (*CASH ONLY)

DELI CATUbud Sports FieldT: +62 361 971284Another Ubud institution, Deli Cat is like a more refined, more European version of Naughty Nuri’s, with the same potential for good times. It has a casual com-fortable atmosphere and a selec-tion of deli cheeses and cold cuts for the peckish. (*CASH ONLY) NAPI ORTIJl. Monkey Forest+62 361970982The one venue in Ubud that seems to stay open until the last custom-er is ready to leave. Cozy spot with décor ranging from rock posters to a quirky Antonio Blanco. Of-ten with live music, and the only place to go for a late-night pizza. (CASH ONLY)

SAVVY

With some of the best food in Bali, great accommoda-

tion for every budget, and access to the island’s finest

art, culture, and natural beauty, Ubud has entranced

visitors ever since German artist Walter Spies made his

home here in the 1930s.

ACTIV

ITY

BaliSavvy | 85

PERFORMaNCESUbud has a plethora of traditional dances and other cultural perfor-mances aimed at tourists happen-ing nightly. Venues include Pura Dalem (Jl. Raya Ubud), Pura Ta-man Saraswati (Ubud Water Pal-ace, Jl. Raya Ubud), Ubud Palace (Jl. Raya Ubud), Ubud Wantilan (across from Ubud Palace, Jl. Raya Ubud). To experience some of the best gamelan and dance, at a slight remove from the tourist horde, enquire about performances at Peliatan, the village renowned for its music and the first to bring it abroad on an international tour in the 1930s.

UBUD MaRKETThis central market is a hive of ac-tivity, with wares of varying qual-ity — the patient may find some worthwhile items. Behind the main market is the town’s fresh produce market, giving you a glimpse of the wonderful fresh local ingredients

that make up your daily meals.

SayaN SUNSETSBy the Ayung valley ridge, Sayan sunsets can be witnessed in all their glory at the Four Seasons, Aman-dari, or Sayan Terrace, with con-tours of the volcanic peaks to the northwest visible on a clear day.

GOa GaJaH (Elephant Cave)Bedulu village The centerpiece of this beautiful sa-cred complex is a cave temple that dates at least from the 11th century, with a striking entrance carved in the form of a demon’s mouth and both Buddhist and Hindu sculp-tures inside and close by. Inside are the remnants of a Ganesha statue. Outside is an elaborate bathing place, and beyond that a path that leads to other Buddhist figures down towards a serene gorge in the Petanu river valley.

SAVVY

*sEE

UB

UD

UB

UD

86 | BaliSavvy

TiRTa EMPUlTampaksiring (20km northeast of Ubud)Balinese visit this temple from all over the island to bathe in the sacred cleansing spring, seeking blessings and healing. Tradition has it that each of the 15 fountains at the bathing pool has a specific function. The water at Tirta Em-pul is regarded as the holiest in Bali, and during Galungan, the sacred barong masks are bathed here.

GREEN SCHOOlJl. Raya Sibang Kaja, AbiansemalThe Green School campus is an at-traction in its own right, and may make you wish you had your child-hood years back again. In a stun-ning location on the Ayung river valley, a tour of the school also gives an insight into some of the projects that students work on as part of their holistic, green educa-tional experience. Tours are held on Mondays and Wednesdays (see www.greenschool.org for more de-tails).

the recently opened Fivelements, Puri Ahimsa, offers a retreat in beautiful natural and architectural surroundings. Gifted Balinese and international healing therapists are at hand to perform massage, deep reflexology, acupressure and energy work in the private riv-erfront suites. Ceremonies, yoga, and sacred arts are regularly held on site, while the sakti restaurant is already getting rave reviews for its gourmet raw vegan food.

www.fivelements.org

SAVVY

*sTAy

ACTIV

ITY

BaliSavvy | 87

SAVVY

*sTAy

aMaNDaRiJl. Raya Kedewatan, SayanT: +62 361 975 333 www.amanresorts.com/amandariThis was the first Aman hotel in Bali, created in the 1980s by Pe-ter Muller and yet impressively ageless. It’s not hard to see why it inspired many imitators, but a stay there is still matchless today — from the excellent food to the beautiful scenery, elegant archi-tecture, and that Aman style of service.

COMO SHaMBHala ESTaTEBanjar Begawan, Desa Melinggih Kelod, PayanganT: +62 361 978 888www.cse.comoshambhala.bzThis stunning property gives you the feeling of staying in an ultra-luxurious home instead of a hotel. Twenty minutes north of Ubud, close to the village of Payangan, the focus is on health and healing, and it provides a perfect setting in which to retreat from the world and revive one’s senses.

FOUR SEaSONS RESORT Bali aT SayaNJl. Raya Kedewatan, SayanT: +62 361 701 010www.fourseasons.com/sayanEntering the Four Seasons prop-erty in Sayan is an indelibly mem-orable experience – the footbridge that leads to the lobby offers an awe-inspiring view of the steep gorge drop to the Ayung river valley below. It’s all superb from there on, from the fabulous food to the superlative spa.

Maya UBUDJl. Gunung Sari, Peliatan T: +62 361 977 888www.mayaubud.comCharming resort to the east of Ubud, on a stunning ten-hectare property set in the Petanu river valley. Activities from yoga ses-sions to cycling trips, and the spa is excellent. Rooms are comfort-able and villas even better, while the expansive views lend them-selves to lazy afternoons around the swimming pools.

UB

UD

90 | BaliSavvy

My BaliWhile based in Hanoi 15 years ago, sUsi JOHnstOn

reluctantly agreed to visit Bali for two weeks. she’s still here.

“Raised as a nomad,” she went to school in the seattle area

and to university in scotland, but has lived in Bali longer than

anywhere else and has no plans to leave. With Macan tidur in

Ubud and iCOn asian arts in seminyak, she expresses through

her work a love of beautiful antiquities from all over indonesia.

“My BAlI STory was argu-ably the larger prototype for

Eat, Pray, Love. But I never did the “eat” part, and that’s probably why I’m so skinny. My story reduced to headlines is basically like this: Di-vorce. Quit hot city job. retire at 35 to write and travel. End up in Bali. live in Ubud palace for seven years. Write. Publish. Study Indo-nesian and Balinese intensively. Hang out with high priests and healers and princes and scholars and all that. Convert palace garage

on Monkey Forest road into shop in partnership with Ubud rebel prince. Success in the antiquities trade un-retires me. Gorgeous, charismatic Italian genius, resi-dent in Bali, finds me and sweeps me off my feet.

So I did the “pray” and “love” parts. And now is the “happily ever after” part. We have our Ubud shop (Macan Tidur), a new gallery in Seminyak (ICoN), and an international business provid-ing the best that Indonesia has to

BaliSavvy | 91Balisavvy >> 91

susi Johnston of iCOn asian arts in the gallery’s back office.

92 | BaliSavvy

offer to discerning clients all over the world.”

What is the philosophy behind Macan Tidur?“From the beginning, working with my business partner Tjok Agung, our ideas for Macan Tidur were never about making money. We simply saw truly beautiful and powerful things coming from all of the cultures of Indonesia, and thought, “If we choose what we like, what makes our hearts beat faster, then certainly there will be other people who feel the same.” We would just do things our own way and present things in a setting we thought was beau-tiful and meaningful, and if peo-ple liked it, great.

We have always focused not on cultural property, but on arts and artefacts that were the posses-sions of individuals, yet reflect the power and lasting significance of their cultures and the time when they lived. We like to offer pieces that give people an invitation to understand the many cultures of Indonesia on a personal level. In this way, I think we have been able to inspire many people who

knew nothing about Indonesia to forge a hearfelt bond to this coun-try and its history and its people.”

What does Bali mean to you?“It’s my home. Among all of the places I have lived there is none that is better or worse than any other. Every place has a mix of positives and negatives. What seems to matter is finding a place where the mix of plus and minus strikes a balance with your own strengths and shortcomings. And then adapting yourself to take the downside in stride, once you know that you are where you belong.

There is no paradise on earth. Heaven and hell are situations we create by our own perceptions and reactions to the world around us, minute to minute, day to day. That’s so obvious. What did my grandmother say? ‘Bloom where you’re planted.’”

ISL

AN

D IN

SID

ER

Facing page, foreground: song dynasty earthenware trade jars

dredged up from a river in Borneo. top, left to right: a slate bride-price

stone from irian Jaya; an ossuary door from torajaland; a warrior’s shield from nias island; a carved ironwood pillar from Kalimantan.

susi JohnsTonsusi JohnsTon

BaliSavvy | 93

94 | BaliSavvy

What’s the best meal you’ve eat-en on Bali?“For restaurant dinners, I’m very partial to Agung’s red and Black Nasi Goreng at Chandi restau-rant on Jalan oberoi. Chandi has always managed to deliver a very good plate, without excep-tion. I think it’s because the chef is someone who genuinely cares, and deeply enjoys what he does.

I also enjoy the raw food cham-pioned by Diana von Cranach from Puri Ganesha. She has done a tremendous job of bringing re-ally delicious local ingredients di-rectly to the palate without undue interpolation. Now that’s a taste of Bali, pure and unadulterated. She’s been working with the chefs at Como Shambhala, the Aman-dari, the legian, and many other top venues, to explore the gastro-nomic potential of raw food.

For me a great meal is one that leaves you feeling charmed, nour-ished, fascinated, and never ever weighed down. We all should rel-ish most a meal that leaves our palate enchanted, our imagination stimulated, our stomach comfort-able, and our body properly fed and energized.

I enjoy eating at Chandi for this reason. Also at Sardine, since they’ve got a brilliant new chef. And at Puri Ganesha. And at any number of good Japanese restau-rants in Bali (the Japanese totally get it about the experience of a meal and its benefits for the body, and about maximising the multi-sensory experience without just maximising the belly-bloat).

I also enjoy full-on classic cu-linary assaults like Mozaic. Mo-zaic whisks masterpieces out of its kitchen every second. But too many masterpieces in one meal can leave you feeling like you’ve been on a two-hour group tour of the louvre, and the Mona lisa and the Venus de Milo and the Monets are all a grand blur and you feel dizzy and a bit sickish. I say Mozaic is unsurpassed, but go à la carte, pick one dish or two, enjoy it to its fullest, then go back the next day, and the next and the next and the next. Don’t do the louvre in one go.”

Breakfast? “Breakfast is good at la lucciola. Especially on weekends because they don’t make croissants on

ISL

AN

D IN

SID

ER

susi JohnsTon

BaliSavvy | 95

weekdays. They had a great pas-try chef ten years ago who taught them to make great pastries in the grand style, and they cannot be beat on this score, so Breakfast at lucciola beats Breakfast at Tif-fany’s any day of the week. They give good Eggs Benedict.

That said, breakfast at Biku is a habit I intend to cultivate more deeply and maintain forever. Biku is the go-to place for a good breakfast in an atmosphere that

will cosset you from unconscious-ness into the clamorous world of Bali today. I also like Café Bali for hangover breakfasts, don’t know why. Something about their breakfast specials detoxes and grounds the wobbly wires of the old bod after a long night out.”

Your favorite view?“Sunrise over Mt rinjani in lom-bok, as viewed from Pura Pasar Agung, the highest temple in Bali,

Mozaic’s Chocolate Mousse Raspberry Rose Dessert.

96 | BaliSavvy

after spending a long, cold night there during the temple odalon (anniversary festival). Nothing beats that.”

Favorite people...“Although I don’t like favoritism in general, some of my favorite people in Bali are Ngurah Kary-adi, Made Wijaya, Wayan Ju-niartha, Tjok Sawitri, Tjok raka Kerthyasa, Degung Santikarma, rio Helmi, Diana Darling, Ida Pedanda Made Gunung, Dayu Suci the niece of the last truly high priest of Bali from Dawan Kelod Klungkung, and Tjok Kris from Ubud who created Klub Kokos in Bangkiangsidem. And I’m very partial as well to John and Cynthia Hardy, who never take no for an answer and keep wading through the mud, no matter how deep or mucky, to make a positive differ-ence in their lifetimes, not just for Bali, but for the world. I also deeply admire Petra Sch-neider who has for a decade or more spearheaded IDEP Founda-tion in Ubud, with disaster relief and community development efforts that have made miracles real. And Susan roziadi and her

husband Teguh, who created the Sunrise School, the Sunrise or-ganic Market, and yayasan In-taran. And the late lucy Wisdom who not only piloted the Suma-tran orangutan Society from its inception, but also made great positive differences in the lives of tens of thousands of people who she touched with her wit and her warmth.

And I tip a very big wide-brimmed sun-hat to linda Gar-land, without whom bamboo would not be what it is today, and without whom, so many land-scapes and communities around the region would have long since given up all hope.”

Best parties?“My 50th birthday party on 7 July at Hotel Tugu was the best party I have ever attended. It was a gath-ering of people who care about life, love, beauty, art, innovation, the future, and most of all each other. That for me was magic.

The other best-of-the-best parties have been any happenings at Word of Mouth in Seminyak. Birthdays and other special par-ties at the living room. The birth-

ISL

AN

D IN

SID

ER

susi JohnsTon

BaliSavvy | 97

day party at Sardine for the 60th birthday of Pascal (the owner) and his mother’s 80th. And Ashley Bickerton’s most recent birthday party, when I was the last guest to leave. It’s hard to negotiate those coral-rock stairs at 4am in the dark after lashings of chocolate cake and libations.”

Favorite cultural moments“The times I took it upon myself to follow long-haul Ubud major

ceremonies from start to finish. It normally takes a more than a month, night and day, 24 hours a day. When I committed to these ceremonies from start to finish, whether they were royal cre-mations or weddings or temple rededications, at the end, I felt something ineffable had taken place, in the community and in all of the people who involved them-selves from start to finish. It’s a cultural, emotional and spiritual

Weekend breakfasts at la lucciola: “they give good Eggs Benedict.”

susi JohnsTon

98 | BaliSavvy

ISL

AN

D IN

SID

ER

Tour de France every time. And almost all the Balinese people who have responsibilities for ma-jor ceremonies undergo the same kind of transformational experi-ences. Many times in their lives. Many times in a year, in fact.

Another important and mov-ing cultural experience, was when I was ordered to undergo the preparation process and rituals of a pawintenan, which is a kind of spiritual cleansing and ordina-tion ceremony. It is the process that pemangku priests go through before they can be pemangkus. It is the process by which one is pre-pared as a human vessel to receive knowledge in Bali.”

Best galleries“There are only a few galleries in Bali worth mentioning, and I will put them all on the same level. They are Biasa Artspace, Kendra Gallery, Gaya Fusion, Tony raka, Ganesha Gallery and Komaneka. And Griya Santrian throws the occasional party and show.”

To relax?“Home, always at home in Per-erenan is the best for relaxation.

Ideally preceded by a massage from one of the skilled therapists from Espace spa in Seminyak (I go there, or they come here).”

How chic is Bali? Actually it is indescribably chic. What happens is that creative peo-ple from everywhere in the world bring their best to Bali, and then their best is thereafter inspired by Bali, and Bali is inspired by it, and they keep coming back. It is a phe-nomenon that absolutely involves the Balinese, and the other Indo-nesians who live on this island or visit it.

I keep going back to Mochtar lubis’ seminal work, The Indo-nesian Character in which he de-duces that almost the sole savior of the Indonesian people is their creativity, and their ability to fos-ter creativity.

Bali is a crucible for creativity and innovation without rival. If there were less barriers and more acceptance of the participation of young, innovative, entrepre-neurial creatives here, Bali could become the creative hub of all of Asia, and reap many benefits as a result.”

susi JohnsTon

Macan tidur: 19th century roof pillar base from Bali, representing a guardian figure which consists of a winged head. Made of jackfruit wood.

iCOn: three ancient wood offering bowls from an abandoned and disused cave tomb in torajaland. Behind them is an architectural panel from a traditional torajan house.

100 | BaliSavvy

INT

ER

VIE

W D

IRE

CT

OR

Y

susi JohnsTon

GALLERY MACAN TIDURat Puri Muwa PalaceUpper Monkey Forest Road, Ubudt. +62 361 977121

ICON ASIAN ARTSJl. Oberoi 17,seminyak t. +62 361 733875

CHANDI RESTAURANTJl. laksamana no. 72, seminyak t. +62 361 731060

PURI GANESHAPemuteran Gerokgak, singarajat. +62 362 93433

COMO SHAMBHALABanjar Begawan, Gianyar t. +62 361 978888

AMANDARIJl. Raya Kedewatan, Ubudt. +62 361 975333

THE LEGIANJl. Kayu aya, seminyak t. +62 361 730622

SARDINEJl Petitenget no. 21 t. +62 361 738202

MOZAICJl. Raya sanggingan, Ubudt. +62 36 1 975768

LA LUCCIOLAJl. Petitenget, seminyakt. +62 36 1 73 0838

BIKUJl. Petitenget no. 888 t. +62 361 8570888

CAFE BALIJl. laksamana, seminyakt. +62 361 736484

Hotel Tugu, the setting for susi’s 50th birthday party – “the best party i have ever attended. it was a gathering of people who care about life, love, beauty, art, innovation, the future, and most of all each other. that for me was magic.

BaliSavvy | 101

IDEP FOUNDATIONJl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubudt. +62 361 981 504

SUNRISE ORGANIC MARKETMon, Wed, Fri: 8am-Midday Jl. Mertasari, Kerobokan t. +62 361 735824

SUMATRAN ORANGUTAN SOCIETYJl. Hanoman 44B (behind KaFE), Ubud t. +62 361 972906

LINDA GARLANDwww.bamboocentral.orghttp://panchoran-retreat.com

HOTEL TUGUJl. Batu Bolong, Canggu t. +62 361 731701

WORD OF MOUTHJl. Kunti 9, seminyakt. +62 361 8475797

THE LIVING ROOMJl.Petitenget, Kerobokan t. +62 361.735735

BIASA ARTSPACEJl. Raya seminyak 34 t. +62 361 7442902

KENDRA GALLERYJl. Drupadi no. 88B Basangkasa, seminyak t. +62 361 736628

GAYA FUSIONJl. Raya sayan, Ubud t. +62 361 979253

TONY RAKAJl. Raya Mas no. 86, Mas, Ubudt. +62 361 7816785

GANESHA GALLERYFour seasons Resort Bali at Jimbaran Bayt. +62 361 701010

KOMANEKA FINE ART GALLERYJl. Monkey Forest, Ubudt. +62 361 976090

GRIYA SANTRIANJl. Danau tamblingan 47, sanur t. +62 361 288181

ESPACE SPAJl Raya seminyak t. +62 361 730828

INT

ER

VIE

W D

IRE

CT

OR

Y

102 | BaliSavvy

something sweet from Metis.

scEnE

TH

E G

UID

E

BaliSavvy | 103

Bali’s Dining Scene Sarah Dougherty

In the crazy, frantic restaurant scene that makes up Bali’s

culinary landscape, picking and choosing among them

involves starting out with certain criteria. From the sublime

to the ridiculous, we have it all here. From award-winning

five star chefs creating astounding meals daily, to the

consistently good independent restaurants, to the Japanese,

the French – we even have a Norwegian restaurant and a

Macedonian one. Some of the local restaurants, like Ibu

Oka’s in Ubud where the suckling pigs are turning into

celebrities in their own right, will meet some people’s

criteria for the best. Most of all, the greatest difference is the

quality of the ingredients and the increasing amount of great

local produce finding its way on to our plates. Perhaps the

greatest advance of all is the coffee – once a murky brew with

UHT milk was the standard, now we have devoted baristas,

boutique growers and roasters and coffee shops worth

hanging out in. If one can find a great cup of coffee, surely all

else is right with the world.

104 | BaliSavvy

Melting At Metis

Approve or disapprove, Bali’s

best chefs have a bit of a compe-

tition going on over the best foie

gras dish. St Regis’ foie gras with

fried eggs deserves top marks for

the ultimate Brunch dish. Overall

though, the clear winner has to be

Chef Doudou’s, formerly of Wari-

san, now Metis. His meltingly

beautiful seared foie gras served

with sliced apple and warm rasp-

berry vinaigrette has delighted

diners for over a decade.

Dare to Degust

Culinary adventurers are well re-

warded on the island of the chefs

(oh gods!). Why have one course

when you can have seven or so?

Chris Salans of Mozaic is partly

to blame as he introduced us to

the concept of demanding more,

and he is still getting plenty of ap-

plause for the effort. Oscar Perez

at Kayuputi, St Regis, is giving

him a stylish run for our money

and at the sublime Oberoi Re-

sort a personal favourite, Enrico

Wahl, will give you plenty of food

for thought.

Writing The Book

It may seem strange that a chef

named Heinz Von Holzen may

be the defining force behind Ba-

linese cuisine, but with the pub-

lication of his latest book on the

dining

#5 Metis

Chef Doudou’s foie gras: meltingly beautiful seared foie gras served with sliced apple and warm rasp-berry vinaigrette.

TH

E G

UID

E

BaliSavvy | 105

Bumbu Bali

Curious to discover the secrets of the local cuisine? talk to Heinz Von Holzen, owner of Bumbu Bali in tanjung Benoa, where you can not only enjoy authentic Balinese food but also learn to cook it.

dining

subject, this may well be the case.

He also owns Bumbu Bali in Tan-

jung Benoa, over near Nusa Dua,

where you can not only enjoy au-

thentic Balinese food but you can

also learn to cook it at his cooking

school. Curious to discover the se-

crets of the local cuisine, in a lan-

guage you can understand? Talk

to Heinz.

Grocer and Grind

The Aussies are just all over the

coffee thing and Grocer and Grind

in Seminyak is the natural exten-

sion of the national obsession

with the bean in all its fashionable

guises. Grocer’s owner isn’t the

only Australian who is injecting

a little style into the coffee shop

however – Zuchini Café and The

Corner’s Tuck Shop, all on Jl. Lak-

samana/Oberoi are putting their

own spin on the beverage while

offering some fashionable distrac-

tions as well. Down in Kuta, Mug

Shots is the place to find our lat-

est favourite Qita coffee, roasted

right there using the famous Gayo

Mandheling Arabica beans from

Sumatra. Put that in your cup and

drink it!

Leisurely Lunch

The latest sensation to tickle our

taste buds while lulling us into a

state of complete relaxation is the

Bali Eco Village in Belok/Sidan on

TH

E G

UID

E

106 | BaliSavvy

TH

E G

UID

E

#1

#5Mozaic

Why have one course when you can have seven or so? Chris salans of Mozaic introduced Bali diners to the concept of demanding more, and he is still getting plenty of applause for the effort.

the way to Kintamani. Just perfect

when you fancy a scenic drive into

the picturesque mountains, Bali

Eco Village is almost completely

self sustainable and that includes

growing their own food and cook-

ing it Italian style. The home-style

Italian meals are just like Mama

intended, from the home-made

gnocchi, ravishing organic rucola

salads to the free range chickens

and pigs. We think you might

want to stay a while.

BUMBU BALIJl. Pratama, tanjung Benoa t. +62 361 774502, 772299

KAYUPUTIst. Regis Bali Resort, nusa Dua t. +62 361 8478111

METISJl. Petitenget 6Kerobokant. +62 361 737888

MOZAICJl. Raya sanggingan, Ubud t. +62 361 975768

TH

E G

UID

E

dining

AmERicAn EXPREss sELEcTssm

JIM

BA

RA

N &

UL

UW

AT

U

108 | BaliSavvy

Ca

rD

me

mB

er

De

al

s ThE WoRLd oFFERs. WE sELEcT. you EnJoy.

Exclusive to American Express® Cardmembers,

American Express Selects has an amazing range

of travel, leisure, dining and shopping offers

from all over Bali.

Whether you are about to go shopping for some-

thing special or want to reserve a table for a spe-

cial meal; whatever the occasion, you can take

advantage of a special price. Perhaps you are

planning a holiday and want to stay at a top ho-

tel without paying a premium — check out the

available offers at some of Bali’s best properties.

Why not take a look and discover what you could

be enjoying right now? We guarantee you will find

something to inspire.

ACTIV

ITYSTUFF

JIM

BA

RA

N &

UL

UW

AT

U

BaliSavvy | 109

JIM

BA

RA

N &

UL

UW

AT

UACTIV

ITYWhy not share a special meal with a loved one at the interContinental Jimbaran? see p.117 for the offer available to Cardmembers.

Am

ER

icA

n E

XP

RE

ss

sE

LE

cT

ss

m

110 | BaliSavvy

Bali Dynasty Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta

Beachside resort in south kuta.10% savings on best available rates• 15% savings on total food bill at gracie kelly’s & golden •

Lotus Restaurants

WWW.BALidynAsTy.com

T. +62 361 752 403

E. [email protected]

DisCovery KartiKa Plaza Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta

Rooms, suites and villas by kuta beach.50% savings on published rates• 15% savings on total bill at restaurants•

WWW.discoVERykARTikAPLAzA.com

T. +62 361 751 067


Hotel santiKa Premiere BeaCH resort Bali

Jl. Kartika Plaza, Tuban

A semi-boutique hotel by the beach in Tuban.special deluxe Room rate at usd120nett/rm/night • (incl. breakfast for two) 15% savings on total bill (except alcoholic drinks) at •

kunyit Bali Restaurant

WWW.sAnTikABALi.com

T. +62 361 751 267


aston Kuta Hotel & resiDenCe Jl. Wana Segara No. 33, Kuta

contemporary property just a short stroll from kuta beach.30% savings on published rates• 20% savings on total food bill at sugar & spice •

WWW.AsTonkuTA.com

T. +62 361 754 999


WHere to stay

ku

TA

& T

uB

An

BaliSavvy | 111

BoarDWalK*International

Bali Garden Beach ResortJl. Dewi Sartika, Kuta

mediterranean cuisine in a beachfront setting.

15% savings on total bill•

WWW.BALigARdEnBEAchREsoT.com

T. +62 361 752 725


WHat to Do

WHere to Dine

WWW.BALi.QuEEnsTAndooR.com

T. +62 361 732 770

E: [email protected]

Queens’s tanDoor *Indian

Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 73, Kuta

Authentic fine indian cuisine.

15% savings on total bill (except alcoholic drinks)•

WWW.kuTAPARAdisohoTEL.com

T. +62 361 761 414


JalaniDi sPa Kuta Paradiso HotelJl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta

Relaxation, rejuvenation: experience the traditional tropical spa.15% savings on all treatments •

tea tree sPaHoliday Inn Resort Baruna Bali Jl. Wana Segara No. 33, Kuta

Full-day pampering or choose from an a la carte menu of treatments.

15% savings on all treatments•

WWW.hoLidAyinnREsoRTs.com

T. +62 361 755 577


KU

TA

& T

UB

AN

KU

TA

& T

UB

AN

ku

TA

& T

uB

An

112 | BaliSavvy

anantara seminyaK resort & sPa Jl. Abimanyu (Dhyana Pura), Seminyak

59 suites situated on 3,500 sqm. of prime beachfront.10% savings on best available rates• 15% savings on total bill at all restaurants• 15% savings on all spa treatments•

WWW.BALi.AnAnTARA.com

T. +62 361 737 773


tHe Haven Jl. Raya Seminyak No. 500, Seminyak

contemporary resort in the heart of seminyak.minimum of 3 nights stay using best available rates will • receive one time 120 minutes Atma spa treatment and one time three course dinner for two

WWW. ThEhAVEnBALi.com

T. +62 361 738 001


tHe elysian BoutiQue villa Jl. Sari Dewi No. 18, Seminyak

Twenty six private pool Bali villas with full resort facilities.35% savings on published rates• 1 hr. massage per person (min. 2-night stay)• 15% savings on total bill at Rush Bamboo Restaurant• 15% savings on all spa treatments at spa at The Elysian•

WWW.ThEELysiAn.com

T. +62 361 730 999


Bali islanD villa & sPa Jl. raya Petitenget 469, seminyak

A private complex of 10 self-contained luxury villas.40% savings on published rates incl. 24 hour butler • service, 24 hour internet service

WWW.isLAndViLLAsBALi.com

T. +62 361 736 656


WHere to stay

LE

giA

n &

sE

min

yA

k

BaliSavvy | 113

WHat to Do

Prana sPa The Villas Bali Hotel & SpaJl. Kunti No. 118X, Seminyak

A spa that blends indian palatial complexity with moroccan

rustic simplicity.15% savings on spa treatments•

WWW.ThEViLLAs.nET

T. +62 361 730 840


WWW.BALisEnTosA.com

T. +62 361 730 333


luxe sPa Sentosa Private Villa and Spa, Jl. Pura Telaga Waja, Petitenget, Seminyak

specialist treatments, therapies and packages for both men and women.


BamBoo restaurant*south east asian & Western The Amala, Jl. Kunti No. 108, Seminyak

intimate al fresco restaurant open for all-day dining.


WWW.ThEAmALA.com

T. +62 361 738 866


WHere to Dine

Bella rosa* italian

Padma Resort Bali at Legian, Jl. Padma No. 1

Fine dining establishment specializing in italian cuisine.


WWW.PAdmAREsoRTBALi.com

T. +62 361 752 111


LE

giA

n &

sE

min

yA

k

114 | BaliSavvy

Kuta & tuBan

WHere to stay

Bali GarDen BeaCH resort Jl. Dewi sartika, tuban t. +62 361 752 725

50% off published rates• 15% off total bill at Board-• walk

ramaDa BintanG Bali resort Jl. Kartika Plaza, Kuta, tuban t. +62 361 753 292

50% off published rates for • superior & deluxe Rooms

tHe Patra Bali resort & villasJl. ir. H. Juanda, tubant. +62 361 751 161

50% off published rates • (add. usd95++ for deluxe room)20% off total bill & spa • treatments

WHere to Dine

DeWi sinta *International

rama Beach HotelJl. Jenggala, Kuta t. +62 361 751 557

15% off total food bill•

GaBaH*indonesian

ramayana resorts & sPa Jl. Bakung sari, Kuta t. +62 361 751 864


tHe Grill Corner*Asian &

Western the vira Bali HotelJl. Kartika Plaza no. 127, Kuta T. +62 361 765 700

15% off total bill•

tePan nooDle*Japanese

Discovery Kartika Plaza HotelJl. Kartika Plaza, Kutat. +62 361 751 067

15% off total bill•

suGar & sPiCe*International aston Kuta Hotel & residence Jl. Wana segara no. 2-5, Kuta t. +62 361 754 999


WHat to Do

D’toPenG KinGDomJl. setiabudi no. 10, simpang siur, Kutat. +62 361 764 777

20% off total bill • (a la carte only) at d’Topeng kingdom Restaurant20% savings storewide• at d’Topeng gallery 20% off entrance fee at • d’Topeng heritage Art mu-seum

cA

Rd

mE

mB

ER

dE

AL

s

BaliSavvy | 115

leGian & seminyaK

WHere to stay

ranaDi villa Jl. Drupadi no. 28, seminyakt. +62 361 737 908

45% off published rates, • complimentary minibar upon arrival, return airport transferstay 2 nights: additional 60 • min. spa for 2stay 3 nights: additional 60 • min spa for 2 & one set dinner for 215% off total bill at Ranadi • Restaurant15% savings on all spa • treatments

le JarDin BoutiQue villa Jl. sarinande no. 7, seminyak t. +62 361 730 165

35% off published rates for • one bedroom villa and 30% savings on published rates for two-bedroom villa20% off total bill at restaurant•

PaDma resort Bali at leGian Jl. Padma no. 1, legian t. +62 361 752 111

10% savings on Padma daily • rates, incl. return airpot transfer for min. 2 nights stay15% savings on total bill at • Bella Rosa, Tenkai & Taman Ayun Restaurants

WHere to Dine

Prana restaurantthe villas Hotel and spaJl. Kunti no. 118x, seminyakt. +62 361 730 840


restaurant Grill & Wine (rGW) *Grill & Wine

anantara seminyak resort & spaJl. abimanyu (Dhyana Pura), seminyakT. +62 361 737 773

15% off total bill •

WHat to Do

sPa@ranaDiranadi villas Jl. Drupadi no. 28t. +62 361 737 908

15% savings on all treatments •

sPa at tHe elysian the elysian Boutique villasJl. sari Dewi no. 18, seminyak t. +62 361 730 999


cA

Rd

mE

mB

ER

dE

AL

s

116 | BaliSavvy

Kayumanis nusa Dua Private villa & sPa Kawasan BTDC, Nusa Dua

An exclusive enclave of luxuriously appointed pavilions within secluded walled gardens.

30% savings on published rates• 25% savings on total bill (except alcoholic drinks) at • Piasan25% savings on all spa treatments•

WWW.kAyumAnis.com

T. +62 361 770 777


WHere to stayBulGari resort Bali

Jl. Goa Lempeh, Banjar Dinas Kangin, Uluwatu

Luxury property with magnificent views over the indian

ocean.

10% savings on best available rates•

WWW.BuLgARihoTELs.com

T. +62 361 847 1000


Four seasons resort Bali at JimBaran Bay

Elegant resort in a dramatic hilltop setting overlooking the bay.

guaranteed late check out until 4pm for all packages • published at Four seasons Resort Bali website

WWW.FouRsEAsons.com

T. +62 361 701 010

interContinental Bali resortJl. Uluwatu No. 45, Jimbaran

14 hectares of tropical landscape along a white sand beach.stay 4 nights pay 3 nights for staying at club • intercontinental Room on best flexible rates20% savings on total food bill at all restaurants• 20% savings on all spa treatments•

WWW.BALi.inTERconTinEnTAL.com

T. +62 361 701 888


Jim

BA

RA

n, u

Lu

WA

Tu

, nu

sA

du

A &

TA

nJ

un

g B

En

oA

BaliSavvy | 117

BamBu restaurant *Asian International

Banyan Tree UngasanJl. Melasti, Banjar Kelod, Ungasan

indonesia’s culinary heritage and international classics.


WWW.ungAsAnBALiREsoRT.com

T. +62 361 300 7000

Bella sinGaraJa*Italian

InterContinental Bali ResortJl. Uluwatu No. 45, Jimbaran

open for dinner only from 6.30pm.

20% savings on total food bill•


T. +62 361 701 888


JimBaran GarDens*Seafood InterContinental Bali ResortJl. Uluwatu No. 45, Jimbaran

casual open-air dining with stunning views over the bay.

20% savings on food bill•


T. +62 361 701 888


WHere to Dine

One-bedroom pool villa Published rate USD 1070++

Rate is inclusive of breakfast for two, Alila Hospitalities, Wi-Fi access, daily refreshment,

complimentary yoga classes based on schedule, host (butler) service. One-bedroom Pool villa

facilities include; 32 inch Samsung LCD TV with satellite channels, DVD player, telephone and

complimentary WIFI connections throughout the property, safety deposit box, Espresso coffee

machine and luxury whole leaf teas by TWG tea with tea making facilities, private mini-bar,

private pool, outdoor dining area, private cabana. A deluxe sized bathroom is equipped with

indoor and outdoor rain shower & jet shower, bathtub and luxurious Ploh linens; thick towels,

yukata-style bathrobes, 300 thread-count bed linens and duvet. Separate bathroom vanity sets

for couples complement an exclusive range of premium Alila bath amenities specially made for

HIM and HER.

Two-bedroom pool villa Published rate USD 2000++

Rate is inclusive of breakfast for four persons, Alila Hospitalities, Wi-Fi access, daily

refreshment, complimentary yoga classes based on schedule, host (butler) service. Two-

bedroom Pool villa facilities include; 32 inch Samsung LCD TV with satellite channels, DVD

player, telephone and complimentary WIFI connections throughout the property, safety

deposit box, Espresso coffee machine and luxury whole leaf teas by TWG tea with tea making

facilities, private mini-bar, two private pools, outdoor dining area, private cabana. Two deluxe

sized bathrooms are equipped with indoor and outdoor rain shower & jet shower, bathtub

and luxurious Ploh linens; thick towels, yukata-style bathrobes, 300 thread-count bed linens

and duvet. Separate bathroom vanity sets for couples complement an exclusive range of

premium Alila bath amenities specially made for HIM and HER.

Three-bedroom pool villa Published rate USD 4640++

Rate is inclusive of breakfast for six persons, Alila Hospitalities, Wi-Fi access, daily refreshment,

complimentary yoga classes based on schedule, host (butler) service. Covering an expansive

2000-3000 sqm of space, each three-bedroom cliffside pool villa is perched atop a spectacular

cliff-edge located along the southern coast of Bali. Three-bedroom villa facilities include; 32

inch Samsung LCD TV with satellite channels in each room, two 46 inch Samsung LCD TV in

the living room, DVD player, telephone and complimentary WIFI connections throughout the

property, safety deposit box, Espresso coffee machine and luxury whole leaf teas by TWG tea

with tea making facilities, private mini-bar, private 21-metre infinity pool, outdoor dining

facilities and a spacious lawn for private events or weddings. A deluxe sized bathroom is

equipped with indoor and outdoor rain shower & jet shower, bathtub and luxurious Ploh

linens: thick towels, yukata-style bathrobes, 300 threadcount bedlinens and duvet. Separate

bathroom vanity sets for couples complement an exclusive range of premium Alila bath

amenities specially made for HIM and HER.

WWW.ALiLAhoTELs.com

T. +62 361 848 2166


tHe WarunG *Balinese & indonesian

Alila Villas UluwatuJl. Belimbing Sari, Banjar Tambyak, Desa Pecatu, Uluwatu

Authentic wholesome indonesian and Balinese cuisine.

15% savings on total food bill •

Jim

BA

RA

n, u

Lu

WA

Tu

, nu

sA

du

A &

TA

nJ

un

g B

En

oA

118 | BaliSavvy

Furama villas & sPa uBuD Bali Banjar Bindu Mambal

Resort blending contemporary chic with minimalist style.60% savings on published rates• 1 60min. massage for two, return airport transfer, 1 din-• ner for two for min. 2 nights stay20% savings on total bill at restaurant•

WWW.FuRAmAViLLAsAndsPA.com

T. + 62 361 746 3064


alila uBuDDesa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan, Gianyar

Tranquil hillside retreat on the edge of the Ayung river valley.15% savings on best available rates• 15% savings on total bill at restaurant (except alcohol)• 15% savings on spa treatments •

WWW.ALiLAhoTELs.com

T. +62 361 975 963


WHere to stay

PanDaWas villas Jl. Raya Kendaraan No. 1, Banjar Kepitu, Desa KendranKecamatan Tegallalang, GianyarLuxurious and private residences on extensive property.

20% savings on published rates for 3 nights stay• 30% savings on published rates for 5 nights stay• 40% savings on published rates for 10 nights stay •

WWW.PAndAWAs-ViLLAs.com

T. +62 361 971 877


KuPu-KuPu BaronG villas & tree sPaBanjar Kedewatan, Ubud, Gianyar

Peaceful hideaway in lush tropical gardens.10% savings on best available rates/internet rates on • duplex Villa and duplex Pool Villa15% savings on total bill at La View Restaurant• 10% savings on mango Tree spa by L’occitane•

WWW.kuPuBARonguBud.com

T. +62 361 975 478

uB

ud

BaliSavvy | 119

iBaH restaurant*international

Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud

Friendly and peaceful Balinese-style restaurant.20% savings on total bill•

WWW.iBAh-BALi.com

T. +62 361 974 466


WHere to Dine

CasCaDes restaurant*international

Viceroy Bali, Jl. Lanyahan, Banjar Nagi, Ubud

Fine dining and wines in scenic surroundings.


WWW.cAscAdEsBALi.com

T. +62 361 971 777


WHat to Do

WWW.ghmhoTELs.com

T. +62 361 975 825


tHe sPa at tHe CHeDi CluBJl. Goa Gajah, Tengkulak Kaja, Ubud

A wide range of soothing therapies and body treatments.15% savings on all treatments •

KamanDalu Guest aCtivities Jl. Andong, Banjar Nagi, Ubud

morning tours, cooking classes, village cycling, picnic

lunches, Balinese dancing, and more.

15% savings on guest activities •

WWW. kAmAndALuREsoRT.com

T. +62 361 975 825


uB

ud

120 | BaliSavvy120 | BaliSavvy

JimBaran, uluWatu, nusa Dua & tanJunG Benoa

WHere to stay

melia Bali villas & sPa resort Kawasan Wisata BtDC lot 1, nusa Dua t. +62 361 771 510 • Special rates starting at USD130++/room/night• 15% savings on total food bill at all restaurants• 15% savings on all treatments at YHI Spa

tHe BaleJl. raya nusa Dua selatan nusa Dua t. +62 361 775 111

20% savings on published rates•

15% savings on total bill • (except alcoholic drinks)20% savings on spa treatments •

(except Wellness Programs)

WHere to Dine

Cire*International

alila villas uluwatuJl. Belimbing sari, Banjar tam-byak, Desa Pecatu, uluwatut. +62 361 848 2166


Dava*Modern Asian ayana resort and spa BaliJl. Karang mas sejahtera, Jimba-ran t. +62 361 702 222

20% savings on total bill •

(except alcoholic drinks)

Piasan *Italian Fine Dining

Kayumanis nusa DuaPrivate villa & spa

Kawasan BtDC, nusa Dua t. +62 361 770 777

25% savings on total bill • (except alcoholic drinks)

roCK Barayana resort & spa BaliJl. Karang mas sejahtera, Jimbarant. +62 361 702 222


sorrento* Mediterranean

melia Bali villas & spaKawasan Wisata BtDC lot 1, nusa Duat. +62 361 771 510


WHat to Do

sPa uluWatuinterContinental Bali resortJl. uluwatu no. 45, Jimbaran t. +62 361 701 888


tHermes marines Bali ayana resort and spa Bali Jl. Karang mas sejahtera, Jimbaran t. +62 361 702 222

20% savings on published • rates for all treatments (except spa on The Rock)

cA

Rd

mE

mB

ER

dE

AL

s

BaliSavvy | 121BaliSavvy | 121

uBuD

WHere to stay

Four seasons resort Bali at sayan sayan, ubudt. +62 361 977 577

guaranteed late check out • until 4pm for all packages published on Four seasons Resort Bali website

tHe CHeDi CluB at tanaH GaJaH Jl. Goa Gajah, tengkulak Kaja t. +62 361 975 685

10% savings on internet rates • incl. 1X30 min. back & neck massage for two or 1X30 min. reflexology for two15% savings on on total bill at • restaurant15% savings on spa • treatments.

tHe uBuD villaGe resort & sPa Jl. raya nyuh Kuning, Pengosekant. +62 361 978 444

40% savings on published • ratesmin. 2 nights stay will get 1X • lunch for twomin. 3 nights stay will get 1X2 • hrs massage for two

viCeroy Bali Jl. lanyahan, Banjar nagi, ubudt. + 62 361 971 777

5% savings on best available • rates

15% savings on total bill• 15% savings on spa • treatments

WHere to Dine

Kemiri*South East Asian

uma ubudJl. raya sanggingan, Banjar lungsiakan, Kedewatan t. +62 361 972 448


Petulu*Asian

Kamandalu resort & spaJl. tegallalang, Banjar nagi, ubud t. +62 361 975 825


WHat to Do

Bali BirD ParK & rimBa rePtil Jl. serma Cok ngurah Gambir, singapadu, Batubulan, Gianyar t. +62 361 299 352

15% savings on admission fee•

sPa at iBaH Warwick ibah luxury villas & spa

Jl. raya Campuhan, ubud t. +62 361 974 466

20% savings on all spa • treatments

cA

Rd

mE

mB

ER

dE

AL

s

122 | BaliSavvy122 | BaliSavvy

WHere to stay

WWW.cLuBAQuABALi.com

T. +62 361 281 408


Bali international raFtinG Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 5, Padang Galak, Sanur

Whitewater rafting down the Telaga Waja river.

15% savings on published rates (us$77/person)•

sea WalKer Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 5, Padang Galak, Sanur unique diving system allows everyone to observe the un-derwater world, without needing diving certification.

15% savings on published rates (us$85/person)•

WWW.BALikiTEcEnTER.com

T. +62 361 283 835


WWW.cLuBAQuA.com

T. +62 361 281 408


Bali Kite Center sCHool Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai No. 121XX, Sanur

offering iko certification in kite-surfing.10% savings on course fee and rental equipments• 10% savings on selected shop items•

sA

nu

R

WHat to Do

WaKa maya resortJl. Tanjung, Sanur

Balinese-style dwellings in a secluded environment.20% savings on published rates • 15% savings on total bill•

WWW.WAkAmAyA.com

T. +62 361 289 912

BaliSavvy | 123BaliSavvy | 123

WHere to stay

Hotel tuGu lomBoK Jl. Pantai Sire, West Lombok A 6-hectare property by the untouched white sands of sire.

20% savings on published rates• 10% savings on total food bill at Tugu dining•

10% savings on spa treatments at hening swarga spa•

WWW.TuguhoTELs.com

T. +62 370 6120 111


WWW.WAkAgAnggA.com

T. +62 361 416 257


WaKa GanGGa resort Banjar Nyeh Gangga, Desa Sudimara

10 bungalows on gently sloping rice terraces by a black sand beach close to Tanah Lot.

20% savings on published rates: stay 5 nights, pay 4 • 15% savings on total bill at restaurant•

Hotel tuGu Bali Jl. Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu Beach

Romantic boutique hotel by the beach.20% savings on published rates• 20% savings on total food bill at Bale sutra• 10% savings on total food bill at Tugu dining• 10% savings on spa treatments at Waroeng djamoe spa •

WWW.TuguhoTELs.com

T. +62 361 731 701


Bale sutraHotel Tugu BaliJl. Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu Beach

oriental cuisine influenced by Babah Peranakan culture.20% savings on total food bill•

WWW.TuguhoTELs.com

T. +62 361 731 701


WHere to Dine

Th

E R

Es

T o

F B

AL

i

cA

Rd

mE

mB

ER

dE

AL

s

124 | BaliSavvy

rama CanDiDasa resort & sPa Jl. Raya Sengkidu, Amlapura, Karangasem

Beachside resort in East Bali.40% savings on published rates incl. 15 minutes wel-• come massage and entitlement to join resort activities15% savings on total food bill at garpu Restaurant•

WWW.RAmAcAndidAsAhoTEL.com

T. +62 363 419 74


WaKa sHorea resort West Bali National Park, Labuan Lalang, Singaraja

Secluded resort on the peninsula of Bali’s national park.20% savings on published rates • 15% savings on total bill at restaurant•

WWW.WAkAshoREA.com

T. +62 362 944 99

WaKa nusa resortBanjar Kaja, Desa Lembongan, Kecamatan Nusa Penida

grass-roofed bungalows on nusa Lembongan island.20% savings on published rates• stay 5 nights pay only 4 nights • 15% savings on total bill at restaurant•

WWW.WAkAnusA.com

T. +62 361 484 085

Th

E R

Es

T o

F B

AL

i

alila manGGis Buitan Manggis, Karangasem

Seaside resort with spa and Balinese cooking school.15% savings on best available rates• 15% savings on total bill at seasalt Restaurant • (except alcoholic drinks)15% savings on spa treatments•

WWW.ALiLAhoTELs.com/mAnggis

T. +62 363 410 11

WHere to stay

BaliSavvy | 125

WHere to DineCotta*all Day Dining

Alila Villas SooriBanjar Dukuh, Desa Kelating, Kerambitan, Tabanan

From continental cuisine to regional indonesian flavors.15% savings on total food bill•

WWW.ALiLAhoTELs.com

T. +62 361 894 6388


WWW.ALiLAhoTELs.com

T. +62 363 410 11


seasalt*international

Alila Manggis Buitan Manggis, Karangasem

A contemporary menu and a range of indonesian and Bali-nese favorites.


tuGu DininG*Chinese –Babah Peranakan

Tugu Hotel LombokJl. Pantai Sire, West Lombok

unique authentic dining experiences with different themes and venues.


WWW.TuguhoTELs.com

T. +62 370 6120 111


Th

E R

Es

T o

F B

AL

i

WaroenG DJamoe Tugu Hotel BaliJl. Pantai Batu Bolong, Canggu Beach

spa treatments that draw on traditional Javanese wisdom.10% savings on spa treatments•

WHat to Do

WWW.TuguhoTELs.com

T. +62 361 731 701


terms anD ConDitions:

Unless otherwise stated, offers are valid until April 30, 2011. •

Payments must be made on American Express• ® Card.

Offers cannot be exchanged for cash and in conjunction with other •

offers, promotions, privileges and vouchers.

Offers are valid for direct bookings only and not valid on Eves of •

Public Holidays, Public Holidays, and special occasions.

Dining offers are valid for dine-in only and limited per visit/card/•

charge/table.

Unless otherwise stated, advance reservations are required for offers •

under lodging and travel categories.

Rooms, upgrades, and other complimentary offers are subject to •

availability.

Some lodging offers are subject to high season surcharge and/or •

blackout dates.

Other terms and conditions may apply. •

PT. Bank Danamon Indonesia Tbk. and the business establishments •

reserve the right to change the terms and conditions at any time

without prior notice.

PT Bank Danamon Indonesia, Tbk.Merchant ServicesJl. Legian No. 87, Kuta, BaliT: +62 361 757 510F: +62 361 761 626www.americanexpress.co.id

For more offers on dining, travel, retail in Indonesia and

overseas, please visit: www.americanexpress.co.id/selects.

Don’t forget American Express SelectsSM travels with you.

For further information on American Express® in Bali, contact:

Es

cA

PE

EA

sT

RAMA CANDIDASA

this charming boutique hotel with its private beach terrace, surrounded by tropical gardens and rich flora, is located in the picturesque village of Candidasa on Bali’s east coast. Here is a tranquil getaway from the fast pace of the Kuta scene: lovers of nature will take pleasure in the green surroundings and the relaxed atmosphere of East Bali village life. Our guests enjoy a superb view from sun loungers by the pool and swing beds on the sun terrace, over blooming gardens and across to the offshore island of Gili Mimpang, one of the famous spots for diving in this area.

the nearby Bali aga traditional

village of tenganan is famous for their double ikat woven fabric, gringsing, with its alleged magical potency. Other places of interest like tirtagangga or the water palace taman Ujung are situ-ated nearby. also close by is a beauti-ful white sand beach known as Virgin Beach, famous now as the setting for a scene from the Julia Roberts movie ‘Eat Pray love’. Discover a multitude of ac-tivities: snorkeling, fishing, boating on traditional jukungs or mountain hiking with experienced guides. it’s all waiting for you here in East Bali.

*See the Cardmember Deal on p.124

RAMA CANDIDASA RESORT & SPA

www.ramacandidasahotel.com

128 | BaliSavvy

IND

EX

BALi sAVVy

AAlila 16–19, 59, 117, 118, 124, 125Aman 24–25, 68, 87, 94, 100Aromas Café 52Ary’s Warung 84BBali Beach Golf Course 77 Bali Buddha 82Bali Collection 71Bali Eco Village 105Bali Golf & Country Club 69Bali Kite Surfing School 76Bali Niksoma 57Bamboo Blonde 38Batujimbar 28–29Batujimbar, Café 74Biasa 38Biasa Artspace 98, 101Biku 41, 95, 100Blue Oasis Beach Club 76Body and Soul 38Bulgari Resort 62, 116Bumbu Bali 69, 105, 106CCafé Bali 95, 100Cardmember Deals 108

Chandi 94, 100Coffee and Silver 83Como Shambhala 87, 94, 100Crystal Divers 76D Dandelion 38Deja’Vu 55Deli Cat 84Discovery Shopping Mall 54Double Six 55Eedge, The 60–61Espace 98, 101FFour Seasons 65, 87, 116GGanesha Gallery 98, 101Gaya Fusion 98, 101Glow 82Goa Gajah 85Green School 86Griya Santrian 78, 98, 101HHard Rock Hotel 54Haveli 38Hishem 38Hu’u 42Hyatt, The Bali 78

IICON Asian Arts 90, 99, 100IDEP 96, 101Indus 83InterContinental 109, 116Isola 74Istana, The 62JJenggala 28, 65Jimbaran 63John Hardy 30KKabar Media 10Kafe Batan Waru 53Kayana, The 7Kayumanis 5, 9, 71, 116Kayuputi 104, 106Kendra Gallery 98, 101Komaneka 98, 101KU DE TA 20–23, 42Kunja, The 2, 46–47Kuta 50LLanai 55La Pau 74Legian 55, 100Legian, The 94Living Room, The 42, 96, 101Lucciola, La 40, 94, 100

130 | BaliSavvy

BALi sAVVy

IND

EX

MMacan Tidur 90, 92, 99, 100Made’s Warung 52Ma Joly 52Mama’s 52Mario Silver 38Martini Bar 69Maya Ubud 87Mercure Kuta 54Metis 40, 102, 104, 106Mezzanine 74Milo’s 31, 38Ming, Le Resto 74Mozaic 94, 100, 104, 106NNagicia 39Nammos Beach Club 62Napi Orti 84Naughty Nuri’s 84Nikko Resort 67, 68, 134Nusa Dua 66OOberoi Seminyak, The 26, 104O-CE-N Bali 57Ibu Oka Warung 83, 103PPadma Resort Bali 57,

115Pandawas Villas 5, 118Pavilions, The 78Pignou di Penyu 83Pro Surf School Bali 53Pura Petitenget 43Puri Ganesha 94, 100RRama Candidasa 5, 124, 127Red Carpet Champagne Bar 42Ropp, Paul 32, 38, 65Rosso Vivo 51Ryoshi 43SSabbatha 38Sal, La 40Samaya, The 7, 37, 44Sanur 72Sardine 41, 100Sarong 41Seminyak 36Sentosa Villas & Resort 43Serene Living 71SILQ Private Residences 44SimpleKonsepStore 38SIP 40Sumatran Orangutan Society 96, 101Sunrise 96, 101

TTandjung Sari 29, 78Taverna, La 75Terazo 82Thermes Marins Bali 65Three Monkeys 83Ticket To The Moon 54Tirrta Empul 86TJ’s Mexican Bar & Restaurant 52Tony Raka 98, 101Treasures 39Tugu Bali, Hotel 5, 96, 123UUbud 80Ulam Restaurant 69Uluwatu 58VVilla De Daun 57WWarisan 38Waterbom Park 53Westin, The 68Word of Mouth 96, 101ZZanzibar 55Ziva Villa 33, 44–45

kabarmedia

Exclusive living for discerning guests

Santika Indonesia Hotels & Resorts offers a comprehensive range of exclusive facilities to

suit the most discerning of guests. Business and leisure travelers seeking the many up-market

comforts of a top-quality hotel will find all these and more at Santika Hotels & Resorts, where

world-class standards of service are seamlessly combined with a uniquely Indonesian touch.

Santika Indonesia Hotels & Resorts caters to guests who seek the finer things in life, and a host

of other comforts designed to make every stay a truly memorable experience.

Hotel Santika PremiereBali | Jakarta | Jogja | Malang | Manado | Semarang

Hotel SantikaBalikpapan | Bandung | Bangka | Bogor | BSD City – Serpong | Cirebon | Makassar | Pontianak | Semarang | Surabaya

Amaris HotelAmbon | Banjar - Kal-Sel | Bandara Soekarno-Hatta | Panglima Polim - Jakarta | Panakkukang - Makassar | Palangkaraya

Cimanuk-Bandung | Diponegoro-Jogja | Cihampelas - Bandung

SANTIKA RESERVATION CENTREPh : (62-21) 270 0027 Fax : (62-21) 270 0350E-mail : [email protected] website: www.santika.com | www.amarishotel.com

MANDARA SPAnikko Bali Resort & spaJi. Raya nusa Dua selatannusa Duat. +62 361 773377 ext. 5

PADMA SPA BY MANDARAPadma Resort Bali at legianJl. Padma no. 1, legiant. +62 361 752111

KIRANA SPADesa Kedewatan Ubud t. +62 361 976333

KARMA KANDARA SPAJl. Villa Kandara, Banjar Wijaya Kusuma, Ungasan t. +62 361 708800

FOUR SEASONSthe spa VillasFour seasons Bali at sayansayan, Ubud, Gianyart. +62 361 977 577

THERMES MARINS BALI SPAayana Resort and spaJl. Karang Mas sejahtera, Jimbaran t. +62 361 702 222

image courtesy of Four seasons Resorts Bali

CH

EC

KIN

G O

UT

: SP

A T

IME

Don’t leave Bali without experiencing one of the island’s superlative spas. Here are some suggestions:

Exclusive living for discerning guests

Santika Indonesia Hotels & Resorts offers a comprehensive range of exclusive facilities to

suit the most discerning of guests. Business and leisure travelers seeking the many up-market

comforts of a top-quality hotel will find all these and more at Santika Hotels & Resorts, where

world-class standards of service are seamlessly combined with a uniquely Indonesian touch.

Santika Indonesia Hotels & Resorts caters to guests who seek the finer things in life, and a host

of other comforts designed to make every stay a truly memorable experience.

Hotel Santika PremiereBali | Jakarta | Jogja | Malang | Manado | Semarang

Hotel SantikaBalikpapan | Bandung | Bangka | Bogor | BSD City – Serpong | Cirebon | Makassar | Pontianak | Semarang | Surabaya

Amaris HotelAmbon | Banjar - Kal-Sel | Bandara Soekarno-Hatta | Panglima Polim - Jakarta | Panakkukang - Makassar | Palangkaraya

Cimanuk-Bandung | Diponegoro-Jogja | Cihampelas - Bandung

SANTIKA RESERVATION CENTREPh : (62-21) 270 0027 Fax : (62-21) 270 0350E-mail : [email protected] website: www.santika.com | www.amarishotel.com

134 | BaliSavvy

www.nikkobali.com

R E F I N E D S E R V I C E W I T H B A L I N E S E W A R M T H

E X P E R I E N C E T H E N E W H A R M O N Y A T T H E N E W N I K K O B A L I R E S O R T A N D S P A , F O R R E S E R V A T I O N S P L E A S E C O N T A C T

nikko bal i resort and spa | J l . Raya Nusa Dua Selatan | PO Box 18 Nusa Dua 80363, Bal i - Indonesia | T +62 361 773377 | F +62 361 773388 | E sales@nikkobal i .com

jakarta sales off ice | Prudential Tower 19th Floor | J l . Jendral Sudirman Kav. 79, Jakarta 12910 | T +62 21 57957771 - 3 | F +62 21 57957770 | E jo@nikkobal i .com

experience balinese warmth and personal hospitality at nikko bali resort and spa

sitting atop a 40-meter cliff in nusa dua, offering a stunning 180-degree view of the indian ocean,

the 5-star resort hotel presents 389 well-appointed rooms in a timeless design

with a range of modern comforts for a serene getaway.

well-equipped event venues like the pillar-less ballroom, outdoor settings and wiwaha wedding venue

are suitable for meetings, conferences, banquets and a range of events.

bali savvy (edition one)

Documents

tugu bali

east bali

kerobokan bali

published rates

kuta t

bali car rentals

fedex bali jl

bali taxi phone